Fall 2005 • Vol. 5, Issue 2

Changing of the Guard

fter two years at the way down to St. Jon in the helm as VCC the Virgin Islands. After a President, Jamie six month stint at a Yacht A club on Martha’s Vineyard Miller, cheesemaker from Shelburne Farms I returned to Burlington has opted to move onto knowing that I needed to other challenges. Vice- get myself out from behind President Jon Wright the stove. I started looking of Taylor Farm has into some local breweries, stepped into the breach. bakeries, and The following making operations. The questions were posed cheesemaker at Shelburne to both the Outgoing Farm’s had accepted a position down in Virginia and Incoming VCC Jamie Miller (left) and Jon Wright president: to start a new cheese operation, so I interviewed, How/why did you start making cheese? and before you know it... I am the new cheesemaker for Shelburne Farms. Jamie: I began cheesemaking in the spring of 2001. I had spent most of my time up to that point Jon: We were struggling dairy farmers who wanted cooking in Restaurants from Burlington, Vermont all continued on page 2

Also in this issue: ❧ New ...... Page 4 ❧ Media Coverage Abounds This Fall ...... Page 5 ❧ Cheesemaking Courses Offered ...... Page 7 ❧ Farmstead Cheese Book Available ...... Page 11 ❧ Listeria: How to Keep It Out of Cheese ...... Page 11

Lake’s Edge, by Blue Ledge Farm VCC Scores! in Kentucky (see story on page 3) Changing of the Guard transition from strictly a dairy operation into some continued from page 2 sort of “value added” dairy processor. There are others who come from any long lines of cheesemaking lineage – any many who arrive at cheesemaking, as I did, quite to improve our farm profitability. We came to cheese by accident. Being educated as to what is happening out of necessity. We started making cheese in the while we are in our cheese rooms is important. Vitally fall of ‘99 and it has now become the real identity of important. The more we understand our craft and Taylor Farm. trade, the better cheeses we will be making. We all win, from the producer to the consumer. What is the best part of making an artisanal prod- uct? What is the worst part? Jon: Maintaining HIGH quality products, which we are doing and, as Jamie said, moving cheese makers Jamie: The sweat. I really do love the physicality forward with education. of what we do here. There is something to be said for making 500, 600, or 700 pounds of cheese by hand What’s the most important thing consumers should in a day. It is a nice feeling at the end of the day to know about cheeses that comes from Vermont? see what you have accomplished and what it took out of you to do it. I suppose on the other hand this also Jamie: In my time working with the VCC and constitutes what is probably one of the worst parts of being involved in Vermont’s cheesemaking scene, I the job. It is incredibly back breaking work. This is have gotten to know quite a few people. Sometimes one of those Yin Yang sorts of jobs I guess. it’s the cheesemaker alone who get all the credit for their cheeses. But in reality it is a group effort. The Jon: I love being involved in the whole process. I group consisting of the land, the food, the weather, love getting the cows out on the first spring pasture, the cows, sheep, goats, water buffalo, the milkers, the I love milking in the morning and watching the sun cheesemakers, the people we buy our equipment and rise, I love seeing a full cheese vat of our rich milk, I supplies from, the UPS drivers, the shop owners and love singing in the cheese room as we make 400lbs of staff, the customer.... I think you get the idea. We Gouda and I love sharing the cheese with visitors as cannot do this alone, it takes all of us together to get they come to our farm to explore our lifestyle. I love to where we are today. Not easy, but well worth the knowing that we took it all the way. The worst thing is rewards. I never get enough sleep. Jon: Consumers need to have the utmost confidence How would you categorize the state of that Vermont cheeses are made with the highest stand- cheesemaking today in Vermont? ards of quality. The number of awards that Vermont cheesemakers consistently receive speaks to that! Jamie: Bountiful. The amount of various cheeses being produced in the state right now is mind blowing. Jon added the following on this Changing of the Attend any event put on by the VCC and you will see Guard: “Jamie will be greatly missed in the Vermont cow, goat and sheep’s milk cheeses of all styles and Cheese Community (or maybe not, seems like we tastes. It is incredible what comes out of Vermont. ought to be able to find a spot for him close by)! I first met Jamie in the winter of 2001 when, as the new Jon: I totally agree with Jamie, “Bountiful”. We cheesemaker at Shelburne, he made the effort to get have a wonderful group of producers with outstanding out and visit most of the cheesemakers in Vermont. cheeses. I’m optimistic that there is room for even He showed up with a big grin on his face and a strong more! hand shake and followed me around as I gave him an overly wordy tour of our humble cheese facility. He has What is the greatest challenge facing Vermont continued to be a vibrant spokesperson for all cheese- cheesemakers? makers as well as turning out an outstanding product in his own right. As President of the Cheese Council Jamie: Education and consistency are our greatest he continually made efforts to bring us together challenges. Many cheesemakers, here and elsewhere, as a cohesive group and focused on issues that are come to cheesemaking out of need. By this I mean important to us all. His efforts, wisdom and humor will that there are a lot of small dairy operations here in be remembered! Thanks, man!” Vermont who, in order to stay in business, had to Welcome to the helm, Jon. Stay in touch, Jamie.

2 Vermont Cheeses Kick Bluegrass at Society Contest in Kentucky

heesemakers “Vermont continues the first place awards. First-ever ACS from the to lead with excellent ribbons went to Neighborly Farms Green traditional cheeses as of Vermont and The Woodstock C well as innovative new Mountain State raced Water Buffalo Company. Seven of to victory in the farmstead and artisanal the twelve Vermont winners earned legendary hometown cheeses,” noted VCC multiple ribbons, including Grafton of the Kentucky president and Shelburne Village Cheese Company, Jasper Hill Derby where the Farms cheesemaker Farm, Neighborly Farms of Vermont, American Cheese Jamie Miller. “These Shelburne Farms, Vermont Butter & Society held its 22nd awards further advance Cheese Company, Willow Hill Farm, Annual Conference Vermont’s strong and Cabot, who led all winners with & Competition in reputation for quality six ribbons. See complete list of July. Vermont with our key chefs and winners, page cheesemakers earned retailers, within our The ACS Annual Competition twenty-eight (28) industry, and with the relied on ten teams of two judges awards including cheese-loving public in each to select the finest American- eight (8) blue ribbons general.” made dairy products, based on for cheesemaking First-time ACS blue ribbon both technical and aesthetic traits. Awards were presented to winners included Cobb Hill Cheese, The contest this year featured 23 twelve different members of the Green Mountain , and categories with a record 749 entries Vermont Cheese Council (VCC) for Jasper Hill Farm. Crowley Cheese, submitted by 127 North American an impressive variety of specialty Shelburne Farms, Taylor Farm and cheesemakers. For more information, cheeses made from cow, goat, dual blue-ribbon winner Cabot visit www.cheesesociety.org. sheep and even water buffalo milk. Creamery Cooperative rounded out

Results of 2005 Annual Competition Award ribbons, listed alphabetically by Vermont cheesemaker

First-Place, Blue-Ribbon Winners Second-Place, Red-Ribbon Winners Third-Place, White-Ribbon Cabot Creamery Cooperative; Cabot Cabot Creamery Cooperative; Cabot Winners Five Peppercorn Cheddar Vermont Cheddar Wheel Cabot Creamery Cooperative; Cabot Cabot Creamery Cooperative; Cabot Cabot Creamery Cooperative; Cabot Salted Butter Unsalted Butter Light Cheddar Grafton Village Cheese Co., LLC; Cobb Hill Cheese; Ascutney Cabot Creamery Cooperative; Cabot Stone House 6-Year Cheddar Mountain Smoked Cheddar Grafton Village Cheese Co., LLC; Crowley Cheese, Inc.; Medium Jasper Hill Farm; Bailey Hazen Blue Vermont Maple Smoked Cheddar Sharp Colby’ Neighborly Farms of Vermont; Shelburne Farms; 2 Year Cheddar Green Mountain Blue Cheese; Gore- Shelburne Farms; 6 Month Cheddar Dawn-Zola Neighborly Farms of Vermont; Green Vermont Butter & Cheese Company; Jasper Hill Farm; Constant Bliss Onion Cheddar Vermont Creamy Shelburne Farms; Herb Spread Shelburne Farms; Green Olive Spread Classic Taylor Farm; Maple Smoked Gouda Vermont Butter & Cheese Company; Vermont Butter & Cheese Company; Vermont Goat’s Milk Feta Vermont Fromage Blanc Vermont Butter & Cheese Company; Willow Hill Farm; Alderbrook Vermont Cultured Butter Unsalted Willow Hill Farm; Summertomme Willow Hill Farm; Vermont Brebis The Woodstock Water Buffalo Co.; Mozzarella - Ovalini

3 New Cheeses

will become available in Burlington announced at the 2005 Fancy Food area stores and Middlebury Coop. Show in New York. Coming the Spring 2006 – a Cabot Creamery/Jasper Hill Mateo Kehler from Jasper Hill Farm collaboration: Cabot Clothbound Farm report that they have a new Cheddar. Look for details in our next vat and are milking more cows issue or on the Cabot web site: http:// this fall in efforts to keep up with www.cabotcheese.com. demand. They are also launching a new product, Winnemere, which should be available at press time. For availability, check out http://www. The newest cheese from Willow jasperhillfarm.com/ourcheese.html. Hill Farm is called “Blue Moon.” This tangy and creamy blue sheep Cabot Creamery’s new flavored milk cheese is handmade from cheddar “Cabot Pesto Cheddar” the farm’s own high butterfat was the winner of the national web unpasteurised sheep’s milk, once poll entitled “Flavor Vote 2005” in a blue moon, according to cheesemaker Willow Smart . The cheese weighs approx one kilo and is available through distributors. Please From NYC to the Cheese Room call for its seasonal availability (802) Trading an upscale retail job for a cheesemaking internship 893-2963. erendipity, thy name is cheese. When Angela Miller, owner of Greg Bernhardt and Hannah Consider Bardwell Farm in West Pawlett, brought her cheese in to Sessions from Blue Ledge Farm sell at Murray’s Cheese Shop in New York City, she ended buying as have announced that they are S well as selling. producing two new goat cheeses this What she bought was the labor of Heidi Exline who worked the upscale year. “Riley’s Coat” is a raw milk, shop’s retail counter and mail order center. Angela mentioned she needed washed rind cheese aged four months, interns to help in her newly minted cheesemaking operation. and “Lake’s Edge” - a semi-fresh ash Heidi, a fledgling entrepreneur and cheese aficionado, expressed coated and mold ripened cheese aged interest. One thing led to another and by May of 2005, Heidi had traded 40 days. These have been sold at the in her Manhattan commute for something a bit more rural. Middlebury and the Rutland Farmers Her exodus from the city also rated a mention in The New York Times. markets on Saturday mornings into From May through July, Heidi lived and worked at Consider Bardwell. the fall. As the fresh air market There she assisted Peggy Galloup in the make room, helped with the season winds down, Riley’s Coat to many new kids in the barn, and show Consider Bardwell whatever she could about setting up a mail order system. “It’s been great,” says Heidi, a native of Iowa who has returned to NYC with dreams of someday opening her own cheese shop. “To be effective in retail, it helps to understand the process that brings cheese from the farm to the consumer.” Internships like Heidi’s have launched more than one successful cheesemaker in Vermont. Allison Hooper of Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, Laini Fondiller from Lazy Lady Farm and Willow Smart from Willow Hill are just a few of the excellent and highly acclaimed cheese- makers that got their start in much the same way. Riley’s Coat

4 Along the Vermont Cheese Trail

ummer and early Fall represent • A film crew from Australia hit the the busiest season for visitors Vermont Cheese Trail this summer Cheese and Beer: Salong the Vermont Cheese trail. as reportedly they have done A Perfect Pairing Included in our last issue was a map in Italy, France, Spain, England Carleton Yoder, owner/cheese- indicating the 17 Vermont cheese- and Ireland. They do a televised maker from Champlain Valley makers who welcome visitors to stop program called “Cheese Slices.” Creamery, Vergennes, presented bye – taste and buy wares or just sit The head of the “pack,” Will a program entitled “Craft Beers a bit and watch the miracle of milk Stubbs, gave a book he authored and Artisan Cheese: Vermont’s turning into cheese! to those Vermont cheesemakers Perfect Pairing” at the Vermont he visited and, according to Brew Fest on the shored of Lake Lazy Lady’s Laini Fondiller, it Reports from the Trail Champlain in July. Carleton is excellent. Along the Vermont lectured on the general rules Cheese Trail they visited Grafton • Jon Wright of Taylor Farm in for pairing beer and cheese Village Cheese, Vermont Butter & Londonderry says that being a and reasons why pairings don’t Cheese Company, Jasper Hill Farm, designated stop on the Cheese always work. He as offering the and Shelburne Farms, as well as Trail makes a good launch point following five specific Vermont- visiting the Montpelier Farmers especially with their new Guest made beers and cheese matches Market where they encountered House. Their new retail shop at for those in attendance: the farm offers for sale a number Laini selling her wares. of Vermont cheeses as well as • Rock Art Whitetail Ale, • Just is time for fall foliage, the maple syrup, honey, books, prints, Morrisville, VT with: September 19 edition of Business cutting boards, T-shirts, aprons, ❥ Old Fashion Organic Week online featured a story on and more ... , Champlain the Vermont Cheese Trail under Valley Creamery, the heading of Personal Business. • Taking the Trail on the Trail: Peter Vergennes Mohn of Grafton Village Cheese The article, entitled This Way To The Curds And Whey: A cheese has been gallivanting about the • Otter Creek Middlebury Ale, lover’s tour yields samples, classes, countryside doing talks and Middlebury, VT with: and only-at-the-farm finds featured trainings pm cheesemaking at ❥ Pepper Chevre, Blue Ledge farms included Peaked Mountain such places as Murray’s in NYC Farm, Leicester and Wegman’s in Rochester, NY. Farm, Taylor Farm, Woodcock Farm, Shelburne Farms, Grafton • The Alchemist Heady Topper Village Cheese and Star Hill Dairy, • Canada’s popular daily, The IPA, Waterbury, VT with: home of Woodstock Water Buffalo Globe and Mail ran a story of ❥ Farmhouse Cheddar, 2- cheese and yogurt. (visit: http:// the Vermont Cheese Trail in Year, Shelburne Farms, www.businessweek.com/) their Saturday, May 14 edition. Shelburne Some subsequent visitors to the • The September issue of Country Cabot Creamery Welcome Center • American Flatbread Extra Magazine included an article mentioned seeing the article. Stout, Burlington, VT with: promoting great tours to take ❥ Cabot Creamery Smokey during the foliage season. Among • Also dropping into the Cabot Bacon Cheddar, Cabot Welcome Center this summer the tours were the Vermont Cheese Trail and the 17 cheese- was Julia Ruth Stevens, daughter • Shed Brewery Mountain Ale, making members who welcome of legendary slugger Babe Ruth Stowe, VT with: visitors to their farms. The article who was born the year prior to ❥ Jasper Hill Farm Bayley included a photo of W. Townsend- when Cabot farmer’s formed their Hazen Blue, Greensboro cooperative. based Peaked Mountain Farm.

5 USDA Rural Development Announces Two Funding Programs

9006 Renewable Energy marketing opportunity for an of the ag commodity to which value and Energy Efficiency agricultural product. Funds may also will be added. All locations in VT (RE or EE): be available to pay certain working are eligible. All applicants, with the Applications invited anytime capital expenses related to operating exception of independent producers, for RE or EE projects, with 2-4 a viable value-added business must propose entry into an emerging funding cycles expected annually. venture, subject to conditions. Funds market for their product. Agricultural producers and rural may not be used to purchase or Information on both opportunities small businesses may apply for 25% install processing equipment, or to is available at www.rurdev.usda.gov/ grant funds or a loan guarantee up plan, repair, acquire or construct rbs/coops/vadg.htm or contact Lyn to 50% of total eligible project costs a building or facility, or to pay any Millhiser at (802) 828-6069 or by (TEPC) for the purchase of renewable expenses related to the production e-mail: [email protected]. energy systems and installation of energy efficiency improvements. Grant applications must demonstrate Small Dairy Pasteurizer Available financial need based on applicant resources or project’s cash flow. JayBee Precision, Inc., based in New Hampshire, is trying to increase Streamlined application process penetration into the small cheesemaker market with two new, small for TEPC less than $200,000 with pasteurizers. The company has been building Vat Type pasteurizers for reduced technical requirements and the past ten years and has 60 units in the field and in 25 States along no business level feasibility study with Hawaii and Canada, mostly in small dairy and ice cream parlors. requirement. Energy assessments Now they have announced two new units, the 7 to 15 gallon (Model not required for TEPC less than 15GA) and the 15 to 30 gallon (Model 30GA). $50,000. EE includes reduction Wanda Thomas of Harmony Maine owns one of each model and says, in energy consumed per s.f. so “We can process 1600 pounds of product in one day. The smaller of the expansion projects may be eligible. two we use as a cheese vat for soft cheese, cheese spread, cheddar, and Applications for loan guarantees small amounts of cream. The 30GA we use for fluid milk and cream. The may include capital improvements TECH support is excellent.” to an existing RE system and land In Vermont. Diane St.Clair makes acquisition costs. All locations in VT fresh ricotta and butter at Animal Farm are eligible. Scoring incentives for in Orwell and reports “The 15 gallon Small and Very Small Ag Producers, vat pasteurizer is easy to use. It has as well as Very Small Businesses. speeded up the entire process for me.” To talk to Diane about her experience, Value-Added Producer [email protected]. Grants (VAPG): The units have A Notice of Solicitation for received approval from Applications was expected to be the Northeast Region published in mid-October, with a Dairy Equipment Review likely February deadline. 50% grant Committee (NERDERC); funding is available to help eligible 3A approval is expected this fall. For more Farmers, Ag Producer Groups, The 7-15 information go to http:// farmer/rancher cooperatives, or gallon (Model www.jaybeeprecision.com majority controlled producer- 15GA, above) or call the manufacturer based business ventures develop and the 15-30 at 603-744-6644 and they feasibility studies, business plans, gallon (Model will be happy to answer all and marketing plans related to the 30GA), right. establishment of a value-added your questions.

6 MEMBERS IN Cheesemaking Courses Offered THE NEWS he Training Center for styles. Focus on cultures, Farmstead Milk Processing affinage, packaging, facilities and Twill present a series of two- equipment. day workshops in making cheese on the farm, taught by Peter Dixon March 18-19 Making and aging and special guests. Woodcock Washed-rind cheeses, including Farm Cheese Company, a licensed Citeaux, St. Paulin, and Gruyere Vermont farmstead cheese styles. Focus on cultures, business in Weston, Vermont, will affinage, packaging, facilities host participants who will learn and equipment. the fundamentals of farmstead cheese making and how to set up Cost is $250 per class with a and improve their own farmstead $50 deposit required. Classes cheese businesses. are from 9 am to 4 pm each day. There will be a strong focus on Contact Peter Dixon (802) 387- Mateo and Andy Kehler of Jasper Hill the technical aspects of cheese 4041 or email [email protected]. Farm making and affinage, learning how to use starter cultures and making The Vermont Institute for Artisan Reporter Ellen Ruppel Shell put Jasper at least two varieties of cheese, as Cheeses at UVM is now offering Hill Farm front and center in the well as information on facilities, a Certificate in Cheesemaking. September 4 edition of The Boston equipment, marketing, and Requirements to earn the certifi- Globe, calling prizewinning brothers operations. cate include completing 6 core Mateo and Andy Kehler, the hottest Lunches and course materials courses and 1 elective. The follow- cheese makers in the country. Nice get. will be provided. A pair of clean ing are offered for winter 2006: water-resistant boots or shoes is Cabot Creamery’s recent media required. January 9 Hygiene and Food coverage included a story in the Safety in Cheesemaking (core September 15 San Francisco 2005-2006 Schedule course) Chronicle which featured Cabot Creamery’s Vintage Choice Cheddar December 10-11 Beginners January 10 Milk Chemistry. and whetted the appetite for a new class about cheese making and One day (core course) cheese to come out in Spring 2006. business. Starting up; sheep, Cabot also appeared in the September cow and goat milk: properties January 11-13 Essentials 23 edition of The Charlotte Observer. and use in cheese making; Principles and Practices of making lactic curd cheese, Cheesemaking (core course) The October 3rd edition of Business Tomme, and Romano; financial Week’s small business website and marketing information. March 20-21 Cheese Chemistry featured a profile of John Putnam at Short Course. Two days (core Thistle Hill Farm. The link is: www. January 7-8 Making and aging course) businessweek.com/smallbiz Bloomy-rind cheeses, including Camembert, Brie, and lactic March 22-24 Artisan Cheese The Escape section in the October curd goat and cow milk cheeses. Practices: Irish Cheeses. Three 8th edition of The New York Times Focus on cultures, affinage, days (elective) featured a travel piece featuring packaging, facilities and Vermont Shepherd, Taylor Farm and equipment. For information on costs or to Grafton Village Cheese. register contact Jody Farnham, February 18-19 Making and aging Program Coordinator for VIAC, Shelburne Farms, Cobb Hill Cheese, Blue cheeses from cow milk, www.uvm.edu/viac, 802-656-8300 Grafton Village Cheese, Lazy Lady, including Stilton and Gorgonzola e-mail: [email protected] Thistle Hill Farm, and Jasper Hill Farm were all featured in the November issue of Ski Magazine.

7 LET’S VISIT: Twig Farm From Twigs to Tomme: Making Cheese from Trees

By Carol Delaney (excerpted their foundation herd from healthy, from UVM Center for Sustainable productive stock. Keeping the herd Agriculture newsletter, Cultivating closed, except for new bucks, will Connections, summer 2005) help them keep their herd insulated from the risk of diseases. riving along an Addison Next to the parlor with eight County dirt road in Cornwall, cascading locking stanchions, is a DVT, one would not assume hallway that they cross to carry the that a driveway disappearing into the buckets of milk to the milk room. woods would take you to a farmstead Using a new thermostat and a small cheese goat dairy. water circulator, they However, if you converted a new chest knew its name was freezer to a can cooler. “Twig Farm”, and Walking down the hall that goats prefer away from this milk eating woody and room, is the windowed broad-leafed plants, door to the cheese your assumptions room built with a might change. feeling of expanse that Scenes around Twig Addison County is a landscape of the windowed outside Farm. fertile fields and a leader in cow milk wall accentuates. The production across all of New England, cheeses are made in yet this 40 acre property offers 150 gallon vat that ledge and swamp and trees to its heats and cools the new owners, Michael Lee and Emily milk and curds with a Sunderman. And while Addison versed as Michael to answer any jacket of water. County may very well claim to be the questions a visitor might have. There Before their five goats started to capital of commercial goat dairies in is a comfortable compromise between produce, Michael started buying cows the state of Vermont, all the other them as Emily still works a full time milk from a local organic dairy and goat dairies have open land to work computer job at home and Michael it proved to help even out their cash with. “We bought it because it was farms and makes cheese full-time. flow this year. They make a few very affordable due to its topography The new farm building cheeses they call “tommes”, avoiding and because it was close to family”. encompasses the barn, milking parlor fanciful names, that are all cow When asked what was the biggest and cheesemaking room and garage. milk, all goat milk or a mixture of challenge to starting a farmstead Starting at the West end, it opens both milks. Since they are raw milk cheese operation, Emily smiles with an area for winter goat housing cheeses, the ‘green’ cheese wheels broadly and honestly admits that and along one wall, side by side move down to a brine and then aging she was the main obstacle. She did ramps stand where the goats enter racks in the basement ‘cave’ to ripen not want live the life of a farmer yet and exit the milking parlor. They over the official 60 days required to Michael patiently kept reintroducing chose goats because they preferred bring the pH down to proper levels the idea over the years. Embracing them as animals to work with and that help ensure the health and their new life, Emily is intimate they also like goat cheese. As of June quality of the product. They have with the workings of all aspects of 2005, they were milking just five chosen to voluntarily enlist in a milk, the enterprise, and is almost as well young goats that Michael selected as cheese and environmental pathogen

8 testing program to help guide them in goats outside to forage for the first will tell you with a grin that they their practices. time. It can take a few years for the chose “Twig Farm” because he knew Good cheese starts with good milk goats to learn to gather their own that they could at least sell lots of and the goats have been offered a feed readily. Luckily, an additional twigs, if nothing else. To see what variety of options for forage moving 14 young kids being raised outside delicious cheeses they do sell at what from maple and honeysuckle leaves seem to have not preconceptions local outlets, go to www.twigfarm. to grasses and clovers. A learning of having their feed carried to them com. experience for both Michael and the and are doing well eating down For more information about young goats was that the yearlings the browse they are moved to with workshops or starting a goat dairy or did not come from farms that grazed electric netting as fence. They will farmstead cheese operation, contact or browsed their herds. So far join the herd next year and help Carol Delaney, Small Ruminant Dairy this year, the young milkers seem them toward their goal of 35 milkers. Specialist, University of Vermont somewhat dumbfounded as what they As with other farmstead cheese Center for Sustainable Agriculture, should do outside even though they businesses, they selected the farm 802.656.0915, email: carol. are no longer offered hay. This was name with the idea of location and [email protected] or visit www.uvm. a surprise to Michael but a common an image to be easily held in the edu/sustainableagriculture/smallrumi. trial to farmers trying to put their consumers’ mind. With that, Michael html

SMALL BITES

On April 15th, Vermont Butter & Cheese Co., After a long and arduous battle, a number of Willow Hill Farm, Neighborly both chambers of the Vermont House cheesemakers Farm, and Jasper Hill Farm. passed H.540 on June 4th. This participated in legislation recognizes all farmstead a “ Sodexho On June 5th, Willow Smart from cheesemakers as “farmers” “engaged Day” held at the Willow Hill Farm and Dawn Boucher in the business” of farming by the University of from Green Mountain Blue Cheese Vermont Department of Taxes and Vermont. Sodexho braved the early June heat wave of thus providing such much welcome brought a team of 90+ degrees in an outside event at tax relief to our hard working sales people and buyers to present the Stowe Fine Wine Event. Rare, Vermont cheesemakers. and explain their buying methods excellent wines were served and and requirements from vendors be paired with Vermont cheeses with At the American Cheese Society they small or large: i.e. HACCP plans, great response. Cheese companies meeting in Louisville, KY in July, insurance, and shipping Representing participating in this rare event were James Beard award winning Chef the Vermont Cheese Council were Willow Hill Farm, Green Mountain Kathy Cary from Lilly’s & La Peche Willow Hill Farm, Green Mountain Blue Cheese, Cabot Creamery, Restaurant in Louisville demonstrated Blue Cheese, Champlain Valley Twig Farm, Shelburne Farms, her cooking skills using Grafton Creamery, Neighborly Farms, and Vermont Butter & Cheese Village Cheese Cheddar. Cary not Cabot Creamery, Star Hill Dairy, Company. only uses the cheese in her restaurant Shelburne Farms, and Vermont now, but also has endorsed some of Butter & Cheese Company. her recipes using Grafton Cheddar.

The University of Vermont hosted Over two hundred Vermont UVM alumni, parents, and friends products came to New York for Vermont-made Artisan Cheeses City for the first-ever BEST OF paired with wines from around VERMONT SHOWCASE on August the globe at an event on June 2 at 16-17. The Lois McClure, a replica the Billings Student Center. Event canal schooner traveling from organizers boasted that many of Vermont, arrived in Manhattan the cheeses were made by UVM Willow Smart and Dawn Boucher laden with Vermont goods and good alums, including Shelburne Farms, serve up cheese. continued on page 10

9 Small Bites Hill Farm, La Fromagerie du continued from page 2 Royaume, Taylor Farm, Willow Hill, Shelburne Farms, Woodcock will. Sponsored by the Vermont Farm, Twig Farm and Vermont Department of Tourism & Marketing, Butter & Cheese Company the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum and the farm family owners The Board of Trustees of the Sally McCay, UVM Photography UVM McCay, Sally of Cabot Creamery, the two-day Northshire History Center held extravaganza of demonstrations, a Celebrate the Cheesemakers free samplings, games, prizes, and of Vermont with Wine and Music raffles also featured Vermont Butter event held at the Oliver Rice & Cheese Company, Shelburne House in Manchester on August Farms and Franklin Foods. 18. Participating farms and cheeses included: Taylor Farm, Woodcock Shelburne Farms was the setting Farm, Consider Bardwell Farm, for the Vermont Fresh Network event Thistle Hill Farm, Cobb Hill Farm, on August 8th. The event entitled Blythedale Farm, Shelburne Farms “Edible Possibilities: Conversations and Crowley Cheese. with Chefs and Farms,” brought together provider and purveyors of The Annual Plymouth Cheese & The Big Apple serves Vermont cheese Harvest Festival held on September 10th was reportedly the best ever. Perfect weather and lots of good Vermont is planned to take place in cheeses greeted the crowd of 500 New York on December 1. The focus visitors. VCC cheesemakers who of this event will be to pair Vermont participated were: Crowley Cheese, cheeses with New York wines. Shelburne Farms, Cobb Hill, Taylor Farm, Cabot Creamery and On Sunday Oct. 2nd at 3:30 am, Frog City Cheese. Mark Fischer from Woodcock Farm, and Dan Hewitt, Three Owls Sheep Star Hill Dairy hosted a Tour Dairy, headed to NYC bringing and Taste on September 13 for 35 different cheese products from The American Institute of Wine & 20 participating VCC members to Food, Vermont Chapter. The event participate in the Slow Food USA “New showcased their Water Buffalo Amsterdam Market.” Held under the Mozzarella and Yogurt which foodie grand arcade of the NYC Municipal guru David Rosengarten touted as building, the event introduced some “...the best US produced yogurt I’ve of Vermont’s finest cheeses to well ever tasted..” With higher butterfat over 1000 New Yorkers. Mark and content than cow’s milk, Star Hill Dan stayed busy handing out samples Dairy, located in South Woodstock, and selling cheese and cheese plates The Lois McClure, sponsored by throughout the day and appreciated Cabot Cheese. promotes an artisanal philosophy in crafting its products which allows the additional help provided of three for natural seasonal variations in its Slow Food volunteers. fresh foods from across the state. water buffalo mozzarella and yogurt. Vermont cheeses were featured Snow Farm Winery in South Hero, during the cocktail portion of the The University of Vermont hosted Vermont contacted invited Vermont evening as well as in selected recipes an evening event at the American cheesemakers to come share and made for the event. Cheesemaking Museum of Natural History on Central sell cheese at their October 15 grape participants included: Blue Ledge Park West in NYC on September harvest event. The beautiful site Farm, Blythedale Farm, Champlain 21. Shelburne Farms and Grafton along the shores of Lake Champlain Valley Creamery, Cabot Creamery, Village Cheese both donated cheese drew participants including Willow Cobb Hill Cheese, Consider for the cocktail hour. Another such Hill Farm, Green Mountain Blue Bardwell Farm, Green Mountain event, also a Celebration for the Cheese, Frog City Cheese, and Blue Cheese, Hope Farm, Jasper Campaign for the University of Taylor Farm.

10 The book, American Farmstead Cheese: The Complete Guide to Making and Selling Artisan Cheeses, authored by our own VCC honorary Vermont Cheese lifetime member and UVM Professor Paul Kindstedt Council Member PhD., has enjoyed brisk sales since its release in May. Alice Blackmer, Publicity Director for Cheesemakers publisher Chelsea Green Publishing Co., says that a number of popular food magazines are including Bingham’s Farm, Middlebury recommendations for the book in their year end Blue Ledge Farm, Salisbury issues as a Best of 2005. Proceeds from the sale of Blythedale Farm, Corinth the book will benefit the VCC. If you would like to Bonnieview Farm, Craftsbury purchase the book, call Chelsea Green at 800-639- Common 4099 or visit their web site: www.chelseagreen.com. Cabot Creamery Cooperative, Cabot Champlain Valley Creamery, Vergennes Cobb Hill Cheese Co, Hartland. Listeria: Consider Bardwell Farm, W. Pawlett The Cheesemaker’s Enemy Creek Road Cheese Company, Irasburg hether novice or master into the facility unless they have Crowley Cheese, Healdville cheesemaker, the very word changed into clean footwear that Doe’s Leap Farm, Bakersfield listeria can, and should, you provide (boot covers will Frog City Cheese, Plymouth W Grafton Village Cheese strike a chord of fear. Peter Dixon work). offers the following observations and • Develop the mantra of “dry Company, Grafton advice: is good” in the make room, Green Mountain Blue Cheese, Listeria is ubiquitous on farms; meaning that you must have Highgate livestock, silage, and raw milk being good ventilation in the make Hope Farm Sheep Cheese, Charleston sources of contamination and, without room to dry the walls, floors, and Jasper Hill Farm, Greensboro all necessary precautions, can become equipment between cheese makes. La Fromagerie du Royaume, a source of contamination for the less Avoid puddles, you need to Guildhall than scrupulous cheesemaker. squeegee the floor dry if the slope Lakes End Cheeses, Alburg How to keep it out of the cheese? isn’t right. Lazy Lady Farm, Westfield • Keep it out of your milk by milking • Keep the equipment very clean. Maryella Farm, E. Corinth no more animals that you feel you Make sure the water is hot Neighborly Farm, Randolph can keep clean and healthy and enough when you use the caustic Orb Weaver Farm, New Haven supervise adequately. (detergent) and acid cleaners, it Peaked Mountain Farm, • Keep the barn well ventilated should be at least 125 F. Townshend and clean of manures much as • Keep the cheese aging boards, Shelburne Farm, Shelburne possible. mats, and shelving scrupulously Star Hill Dairy, S. Woodstock • Know the quality of your silage clean. Remove these when there Taylor Farm, Londonderry if you are going to feed it. Make is a cheese residue build-up and Thistle Hill Farm, N. Pomfret sure that the pH is low enough and clean them. After cleaning make Three Owls Sheep Dairy, that the silage has been properly sure these items are bone dry Granville fermented. The best is to simply before using again. Three Shepherds of the Mad not feed any silage. This is a • One tablespoon of Clorox per River Valley, Warren definite NO, NO with goats. gallon of water will give you Twig Farm, W. Cornwall • Reject milk with suspiciously high 200 PPM, which is suitable for Vermont Butter and Cheese, raw bacteria and SCC counts. sanitizing equipment. Immerse Websterville • Wash the floors often. small items for at least 30 seconds Vermont Shepherd, Putney • Use a separate pair of boots for before use. Larger equipment Willow Hill Farm, Milton cheesemaking that stays in the must be sanitized by brushing the Woodcock Farm, Weston entry to the cheese make and solution on. Increase the dose to aging rooms. Don’t let others 800 PPM for drains.

11 VERMONT FARM BUREAU NON-PROFIT ORG Vermont Cheese Council US POSTAGE 2083 East Main Street PAID Richmond VT 05477 PERMIT #101 RICHMOND VT

Calendar of Upcoming Events The Vermont Cheese Council Newsletter is published for Artisan Cheese Practices: least one invited international French Cheeses speaker as well as US researchers food professionals. The Vermont Institute for Artisan plus farmer talks. Co-sponsored With written permission, Cheese, At the University of by the Dairy Sheep Association Vermont, Burlington, Vermont of North America (www.dsana. reprinting is encouraged. October 31, November 1 & 2 org) For information contact Carol Additional courses offered Delaney, Small Ruminant Dairy December - March Specialist, University of Vermont Contact: For information about this and Center for Sustainable Agriculture, THE VERMONT other cheese courses, contact Jody (802) 656-0915, email: carol. HEESE OUNCIL Farnham, Program Coordinator for [email protected] C C VIAC, (802) 656-8300 or e-mail: c/o Vermont Farm Bureau [email protected] Cheesemaking Courses: 2083 East Main Street, The Training Center for Farmstead 2005 Great Lakes Dairy Sheep Milk Processing: Richmond VT 05477 Symposium Beginning Cheesemaking 866-261-8595 Burlington, Vermont, December 10-11 November 3-5. additional two-day courses offered www.vtcheese.com The UVM Center for Sustainable December – March, 2006 Agriculture is hosting the only Woodcock Farm, Weston, Vermont conference that brings together Cost is $250 per class with a $50 researchers and farmers on the deposit required. topic of farming with dairy sheep Contact Peter Dixon (802) 387- and making cheese. Includes at 4041 or email [email protected]

12 The Vermont Cheese Council, whose goal is to advance the production and image of premier cheeses from Vermont, is a non- profit trade organization of more than three dozen Vermont chee- semakers. The Council operates to educate the general public on the high quality and diversity of Vermont cheeses. Visit Vermont cheesemakers on the web at www. vtcheese.com.

13 ccording to our friends and fellow cheesemakers from AWisconsin, here are the cheese making and eating trends to the watching in 2003.

1. Made in America: The cheese- making industry in America is undergoing a renaissance much like Californias wine industry began some 20 years ago. American- made cheeses today stand rind-to-rind with the best cheeses in the world and are recognized as equal or better in quality. Smaller, local cheese- makers offering specialty and signature varieties are coming into their own, as demand for domestic cheeses continue to grow.

2. Flavored Cheeses: Several of the trends on the list this year have more flavor at their root, but this fast-growing segment takes the direct route: distinctly flavored ingredients blended in during the cheesemaking process.

3. Washed Rinds: During the aging process, washed rind cheeses are regularly hand- washed or rubbed with brine, cider, wine, vinegar, or other liquid of the cheesemakers choice. The liquid encourages surface bacteria growth, thus giving the cheese its distinctive aroma. As the liquid absorbs into the cheese, a rind forms. This keeps the cheese from drying out and helps it ripen from the outside in. In addition to boasting distinctive flavors, these cheeses also top the trend charts because of the skill, artistry and hands- on craftsmanship required to produce them.

4. Boutique Cheeses: Small-batch, one-of-a-kind cheeses sporting catchy names will continue to create buzz in the cheese category this year.

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