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Award-Winning Food, Coastal Views and Cool Culture Set Peru's Capital Apart, Finds Meera Dattani DESTINATIONS

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Award-Winning Food, Coastal Views and Cool Culture Set Peru's Capital Apart, Finds Meera Dattani DESTINATIONS DESTINATIONS LIMA | LATIN AMERICA hours 48LimaAward-winning food, coastal views and cool culture set Peru’s capital apart, findsMeera Dattani here’s nothing better than a city that surprises — and Lima does just that. It may be eclipsed by Cusco’s setting, Peru’s Incat ruins and the Amazon’s adventures, but you can’t beat this country’s capital for a peek into the nation’s psyche. One of the richest cities in the world in its time, the City of Kings was founded in 1535 by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro, and has been shaped by colonisers, indigenous cultures and immigrants ever since — and an earthquake in 1746 that all but destroyed it. ➣ travelweekly.co.uk 5 DECEMBER 2019 63 DESTINATIONS LATIN AMERICA | LIMA HOW TO sell Food: Rolf Stanley, Lima resident and Latin America destination manager for Tucan Travel, has one answer for anyone wondering why to visit Lima. “The food!” he says. “The diverse cuisine is incredible, and Lima has everything from small food markets to upscale restaurants. Being on the coast, it has some of the best seafood in Peru.” CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Families: The coastal setting is Miraflores; San Francisco convent; a key draw for families. “When Magic Water Circuit; Manto ‘historied’ out, families can take Hotel Lima – MGallery a boat trip to the Palomino PICTURES: Shutterstock; Promperú islands in Callao Bay,” says Ed Paine, founder of Last Frontiers. “It’s home to sea birds and Humboldt penguins, and Rebuilt and recovered, Lima’s 12.00: The city is a hotspot for Lima’s once-notorious port district, you can swim with sea lions.” centre has been smartened up in Inca and pre-Inca sites, such as where guides run fantastic street- recent times. It’s a city with a brilliant the staggered, adobe pyramid of art tours that describe the area’s Hotels: The hotel scene is bar and restaurant scene, excellent Huaca Pucllana, built between regeneration. There’s a growing booming with newcomers galleries and museums, grand 500AD and 700AD in the San art, fashion and food scene, and such as Manto Hotel Lima squares and avenues, and distinct Isidro neighbourhood and boasting a strong community feel. MGallery, a five-star boutique neighbourhoods. Better still, it’s on an excellent on-site restaurant. hotel in San Isidro, and the the Pacific coast. Guests with more time should fit in 17.00: Magic Water Circuit is Lima’s colourful Casa Republica a visit to the Inca temple complex nightly illuminations show. Open in Barranco. Direct British Day one of Pachacamac, located half- until 10.30pm, it holds a Guinness Airways flights have made an-hour south of the Miraflores World Record as the world’s largest Lima more accessible. Avianca 09.00: Lima’s central sights are neighbourhood, followed by dinner fountain complex, with 13 fountains connects to Cusco and clustered around Plaza Mayor, at the nearby, open-air elevated synchronised to lasers and music. Lima via Bogotá, while many Plaza de Armas and Plaza San Dinner in the Sky Peru experience, European carriers fly to Lima Martin, where you’ll find the which offers views over the ocean 19.00: Urban Adventures’ Lima via their hubs. cathedral, San Francisco convent and Pachacamac. Night Bites & Sights tour is a tasty and its catacombs, Palacio de introduction to the city’s street-food Weather: December to April Gobierno and Archbishop’s Palace. 14.00: Lively Miraflores and and bar scene. If you’re after is a great time to visit. From Many colonial-era mansions neighbouring San Isidro have a more of a sit-down affair, dine in May to November, a grey sea with elaborate balconies line the wide range of shops, cafes and Miraflores or San Isidro, where you’ll mist looms over the city. Real streets,the oldest of which is Casa handicraft markets. For a break find renowned restaurants such as World Holidays’ Dan Clarke Aliaga, built in 1535. Cultural from urban exploring, head to Maido (Japanese-Peruvian fusion), says: “Lima gets a bad rep, highlights include Lima Museum of Parque El Olivar and Parque Panchita and Astrid y Gastón. Or try partly because people tend to Art, Museo Larco for pre-Columbian Kennedy, or relax in Parque del Lima’s chifa restaurants for Peruvian- visit in July and August. That’s art, Museo de la Nación – Amor (‘love park’) by Miraflores’ Chinese cuisine, a result of Peru’s perfect for Machu Picchu but exploring Peru’s ancient civilisations seafront boulevard (El Malecon) million-strong Chinese community. can be grey on the coast. But – and the National Museum of for coastal views and park art. For Head to Barrio Chino for Madam in their summer, everyone’s Archaeology, Anthropology and retail therapy, nearby Larcomar Tusan, created by Gastón Acurio, outside or at the beach. It’s a History of Peru. If in town for lunch, mall is your best bet. Travellers the chef behind Astrid y Gastón, fantastic, fun city.” try Bar Restaurant Cordano, famous after an alternative experience will or try Kuo Wha Gardens, the for its butifarra (sandwiches). appreciate Monumental Callao, oldest chifa in Miraflores. 64 5 DECEMBER 2019 travelweekly.co.uk DESTINATIONS LATIN AMERICA | LIMA CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Chicha morada; Urban Adven- tures’ Lima Night Bites & Sights tour; pisco sour; Astrid y Gastón; MATE; chillies on a market stall PICTURES: Shutterstock; Promperú; Pocho Cáceres 22.00: If you’re after local beer, a pisco sour, of potato in the country), fish and herbs at one 17.00: Enjoy an ice cream at Blu Gelateria, one chicha de jora (corn beer) or a chicha morada of Lima’s atmospheric markets. Then sit down of Barranco’s best-known parlours. Walk past (purple corn drink), you’ll find plenty of good to lunch at La Picanteria (which translates as Barranco’s very own Bridge of Sighs down to the bars to satisfy. Bar Piselli is one of the city’s ‘traditional lunchtime restaurant’), owned by beachfront, or stroll along the clifftop walkway for oldest, while Gran Hotel Bolivar serves respected chef Hector Solis, where meals are scenic views. legendary Pisco Cathedrals, with five ounces prepared according to that day’s best produce. of pisco brandy in them. 20.00: Book well ahead if you want to eat 15.00: Barranco is a wonderful place to pick at Central. Celebrated Peruvian chef Virgilio Day t wo up gifts. If it’s the weekend, Barranco’s market Martínez recently transferred his deservedly is a fun place to browse, with live music, street popular restaurant to Barranco, where he 09.00: The bohemian street-art-packed food and stalls scaling the steps to the seafront. continues to serve dishes with a twist on neighbourhood of Barranco is worth a visit. Once The neighbourhood’s new B-Art shop in the Hotel traditional Peruvian ingredients from all altitudes a weekend retreat for the wealthy, it’s now one B sells accessories and jewellery handmade and regions. Barranco is full of restaurants; try of the best places to stay in Lima, featuring gems from local materials, such as alpaca wool, silk, the delicious ceviche – served amid football such as Hotel B with its art collection and fine ceramic, silver and gold. memorabilia decor – at Canta Rana. TW dining, beautiful Villa Barranco, and many belle époque mansions now transformed into hotels, shops, bars, restaurants and art galleries. BOOK IT 11.00: For a culture fix, visit the MATE, which has Abercrombie & Kent offers a three-day food-themed Lima experience from £575 per person. The price the world’s largest collection of photographs by includes pisco tasting, a visit to a market and cooking lesson with a Peruvian chef, as well as two nights’ hotel Mario Testino, and the Pedro de Osma Museum, accommodation. abercrombiekent.co.uk featuring art from ancient Peru. Other museums include MAC, with its collection of post-1950s Cox & Kings has a four-day Lima package from £595 per person, which includes a city tour and three nights at national and global art. Arts Boutique Hotel B in Barranco. coxandkings.co.uk 13.00: Marvel at the wide array of fruit, Chimu Adventures’ four-day Discover Lima itinerary starts at £495 per person and includes three nights at Casa vegetables (there are more than 300 varieties Republica, a city tour and a trip to Pachacamac. chimuadventures.com 66 5 DECEMBER 2019 travelweekly.co.uk.
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