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THE GUIDE CULINARY TRAVEL & EXPERIENCES: PACIFIC, ANDES & AMAZON

2ND EDITION

1 THE PERU FOOD GUIDE CULINARY TRAVEL & EXPERIENCES: PACIFIC, ANDES & AMAZON

2nd Edition Copyright © 2019 Aracari Travel Jr. Schell 237 # 602 - MIRAFLORES - – PERU T: +511 651 2424

Layout & design by Simon Ross-Gill - www.rgsimey.scot Front cover photo by Marcella Echavarria The Peru Food Guide: Culinary Travel & Experiences: Pacific, Andes & Amazon Table of Contents First a bit of history 6 About The Peru Food Guide 7 Regional Styles8 Dishes to Try10 to Try13 Beverages to Try15 Fun Food Facts 16 Need To Know18 Lima 22 CulinaryExperiences24 Listings-Lima28 Cusco & The Highlands 54 CulinaryExperiences56 Listings-Cusco62 Listings-TheSacredValley74 Listings-MachuPicchu77 TheNorthCoast80 Listings-Trujillo82 Listings-Huanchaco83 Listings-Chiclayo84 Listings-Mancora85 Listings-Piura86 Listings-Tumbes87 Arequipa & the South Coast90 -TheSpiritofPeru92 Experiences-SouthCoast93 Listings-Arequipa95 Listings-TheSouthCoast99 The Amazon104 Listings-Iquitos107 Listings-PuertoMaldonado108 Words and Phrases to Know 112 Terms112 Guide to Tropical 114 Guide to Ingredients116 Guide to Medicinal Plants118 About Aracari Travel 122 Contributors122

Avocados for sale at the market in Lima

4 5 such as cinnamon and cloves. First a bit of history More recently, Chinese immigrants researching and updating our top fused their influences withcriollo About recommended , cafes, From a food perspective we must be cooking to create a range of dishes pop-up eateries and other food and one of the luckiest countries on Earth. classified as , which combined The Peru Food Guide experiences across the country Exotic and delicate river fish from Chinese techniques such as stir fry to update the 2015 edition for 2019, the Amazon; seemingly endless with Peruvian ingredients. Descended Over the last decade Peru has the first ever comprehensive guide to varieties of pulses, tubers and root from Japanese settlers, the Nikkei style established itself as an equal among Peruvian culinary travel. plants from the Andean heartlands, and has most notably entailed mastering the world’s gastronomic superpowers, This guide is organized according to succulent plucked straight the preparation of fresh raw fish. Other becoming world-renowned for its Peru’s highly distinct cultural regions: from the cold of the south influences range from as far afield as proud history of culinary traditions Lima, the highlands, the north and Pacific, all come together in the Africa and other countries in whose richness and diversity are south coasts, and the Amazon. Along country’s countless restaurants to and . unparalleled virtually anywhere on the with an introduction to each region’s produce one of the world’s most divine Internal migration has also helped to globe. culinary histories and traditions, you’ll . make the capital city Lima the At Aracari we have witnessed at first find full listings of our most highly But it’s not all just down to the gastronomic center that it is today. hand Peru’s explosive arrival on the recommended restaurants plus a ingredients. Our traditions have been Many regional styles from around the world food and drink stage. There has range of culinary experiences in each shaped by a multitude of cultural country were transported to the city been an insatiable surge of interest in destination. If you don’t find an influences too. The first civilizations in during the last few decades as millions Peruvian over the last few establishment listed in this guide, then the on the Peruvian coast of people moved to Lima in search of years to which we’ve been happy to we don’t recommend it. developed many techniques of work, producing a cauldron of respond, developing unique culinary One of the things we love most about harnessing the bounties of the ocean, and cultural cross- experiences and diligently researching Peruvian food, and therefore all the as well as trading with people from the pollination. the finest and most exciting dining places listed in the following pages, is jungle and sierra to acquire Modern cuisine has been shaped by the opportunities across the country. its tradition of “popular cookery” - supplementary . Later, as recent refinement of culinary technique, This is no small task. The revolution in food created by the people, for the civilization flourished in the Andes, ever particularly in Lima. The establishment remains young and people. There is nothing exclusive or more inventive agricultural systems of schools such as incredibly dynamic, with new fancy about Peru’s culinary traditions, evolved. The Incas, in particular, were is producing a young generation of restaurants constantly emerging and and although the country’s many masters of successfully managing food chefs and culinary experts and they are vying for attention. Keeping on top of world-class fine dining chefs have production and distribution throughout surprising local and foreign the trends is a challenge even for our developed the concepts with great their empire. connoisseurs alike by applying new team of experts working night and day results, some of the most rewarding Since the Spanish conquest, several techniques and presenting dishes in to find the best experiences the experiences (for those with a stronger waves of immigrants have infused our ever more innovative ways. country can offer. For the visitor, stomach) are to be found in the cuisine with new flavors, ingredients The result of Peru’s unique navigating Peru’s culinary landscape markets and backstreet eateries that and styles to create unique combination of history, geography and on a brief vacation, it can be almost only the locals know about. The best combinations and to characterize the climate is a modern gastronomic overwhelming. are included in this guide. criollo style of cuisine (or Peruvian culture that is growing in reputation Hence the guide that you’re reading All that’s left to say is:Buen provecho! “creole” food) that embodies the best across the world. And with its beauty, right now. Our team has spent months known dishes today - all long before diversity and true essence derived from “” became a popular the freshness and locality of the term. ingredients, there is no better place to While the Spaniards brought sample Peruvian cuisine than in the Mediterranean and citrus, they country itself. with also introduced Moorish influences Welcome to Peru, a land full of . parmesan at ámaZ such as frying techniques and new in Lima

6 7 of influences from the original alpaca and guinea pig, calledcuy . hours inland, the city of Arequipa has Regional Styles indigenous Peruvians, Spanish Alpaca is delicious and low in distinct criollo food consisting of large conquerors, and African slaves. cholesterol and – think of it as a quantities of meat, potatoes,rocoto Peru is getting more and more press Peruvians throughout the country enjoy lighter, healthier . An alpaca chilli peppers and corn. The simple for the quality of its cuisine. Although spicy (picante) food and Limeños will with a local , such as one of and original fare is showcased at the the gastronomic publicity tends to rarely eat a without .. The sauco (elderberry), is quite a treat. city’s variouspicanterias . focus on the capital, Lima, culinary itself may not be prepared that adventures await the traveler wherever way, but if a spicy sauce (aji) or fresh AREQUIPA AND THE SOUTH COAST they go in this country. spicy salsa (rocoto) is not served, it will It’s not surprising, really. The diverse surely be asked for. The southern coast of Peru is best geographical regions that Peru is known for the production of pisco. known for has led to varied plant and THEAMAZONRAINFOREST There are many distilleries and animal life which in turn has led to, not vineyards around the town of Ica, and surprisingly, just as much diversity in As with elsewhere in Peru, the cuisine a handful are worth visiting. About two the cuisine. Each region has its own in the Amazon is mostly about using specialties and, while you can find local ingredients. Not surprisingly, fish them elsewhere in the country, there’s is a staple of the here so if you’re a nothing like trying a dish in the place lover, you can try some of the that gave birth to it. freshwater varieties such aspaiche or even piranha. NORTHCOAST Fruit is also a common addition to , particularly the banana which Being a coastal region, this area is will often be fried and served with the MANCORA IQUITOS especially known for the freshness and main dish. You also might want to try deliciousness of its seafood. Many the juanes, which is a dish of chicken consider the region to offer some of and and local spices wrapped and the best cooking in Peru overall. One of cooked inside leaves. Like many dishes PIURA the signature dishes of this area which here, it will typically come not only with can be found elsewhere but should the ubiquitous fried bananas but also CHICLAYO definitely be tried here if you’re in the withyuca (or cassava) root. area isArroz con Pato orcon Pollo TRUJILLO (Rice with duck or chicken). Although CUSCOANDTHEHIGHLANDS the dish is as simple as it sounds, the seasoning is heavenly and, if the duck The highlands tend to be colder and, or chicken is cooked properly, it’s therefore, meals tend to be hearty. If PUERTO MALDONADO fabulous. you happen to go to a small, local LIMA restaurant for , one that has a set LIMA , you might be shocked to find that pretty much every main is PARACAS / ICA / NAZCA CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY While the top restaurants in Lima tend served with rice and potatoes. While toward fusion of traditional dishes and that may seem like a flavors with that of other countries, the overload, for folks who are doing tough AREQUIPA original style tends to fall under the manual labor at altitude, it is just the umbrella ofcriollo . Criollo itself is also fuel they need. a fusion, having been the culmination The really different to try here are

8 9 Dishes to Try CEBICHE(CEVICHE)LIMA/NORTH COAST

You can’t leave Peru without tryingcebiche . Although there are many AJIDEGALLINALIMA variations, even within Peru,cebiche is essentially raw fish, shellfish, or a Chicken in a creamy, slightly spicy and nutty combination of the two, which are “cooked” by marinating with lime and mixed sauce. Served over potatoes, topped by hard withcilantro (coriander), aji amarillo (spicy yellow ) and red . boiled egg and with a side of rice. Served withchoclo (a local variety of corn with giant kernals) and sweet . This is the quintessentialLimeño orNorteño dish, and considered best eaten at lunchtime, either fresh from a local market or at one of Lima’s top ANTICUCHOSLIMA seafood restaurants. Marinated meat roasted and served on , traditionally made from de corazon Although other Latin American countries lay claim tocebiche , many uphold (beef heart). Peru’s claim to the dish. Gastón Acurio explains that because of Lima’s prominent position on the coast and its strategic importance as a trading base for the Spanish conquistadores, dishes likecebiche quickly spread to ARROZCONPATOORPOLLONORTH COAST other Spanish colonies, and became assimilated into their own local cuisine. Succulent duck or chicken accompanied by rice and infused with fresh coriander. Originated in the town of Chiclayo.

CARAPULCRALIMA/ICA Originating in the Andes, this earthy pre- Columbian combines and sun-dried potatoes with peanuts,aji panca (chilli) and other spices. CHICHARRONSOUTH COAST/LIMA Unless it specifically says chicken, fish or other seafood, chicharrones are made from pork and typically, at least in a local countryside type of LIMA CAUSA place, is going to be akin to pork rinds. You can When you think of mashed potatoes, they can be heavy, starchy and certainly find it other places, though, where there is a fair served hot. So encounteringcausa is a surprise for all your senses. First of all, amount of juicy meat left on. who would have known that mashed potatoes can be so aesthetically pleasing! Causa typically features either fish or chicken, layered with silky smooth mashed yellow potato and a layer, often avocado. The colorful layers CHOCLO(CONQUESO)HIGHLANDS are drizzled wtih and other vibrant garnishes. Choclo is a type of corn that looks a bit like sweetcorn but much larger and juicier kernels. Causa is aLimeño classic, enjoyed especially in the summer, often as a shared Although not as sweet, it is tasty when served appetizer before the . You’ll find it difficult to find two the same. fresh. You will often find it outside tourist areas or Sometimes you’ll be presented with acausa log, to slice and share, often a sold on buses, usually offered with queso (milky singular roundcausa , and sometimes a trio of intricate and exquisitely presented Andean ) which melts over the hot choclo. masterpieces.

10 11 CHUPEDECAMARONESLIMA/AREQUIPA and served with miel de chancaca Desserts to Try (molasses). This typical has its A rich and creamy made with large . origins in North Africa - the Arabic name Often flavored withhuacatay herb from the is “” (meaning “sponge”) Andes. ALFAJORES More typically associated with , the Peruvian version consists PIE DE LIMON LECHONHIGHLANDS/LIMA of two soft and crumbly filled Peruvian key lime pie, a version of Made with , this succulent dish is traditionally served withtamales . It is withmanjar blanco. lemon meringue pie. the dish of choice for some holidays, such as the Dia de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead, on November 1. ARROZ CON LECHE TRES LECHES This is basically a rice (rice with A decadently rich sponge cake, soaked LOMOSALTADOLIMA ) that is frequently served with in three types of milk. Think of this as the Peruvian take on Chinese stir- mazamorra. fry with beef, tomatoes, and . Served with rice and chunky . TURRÓN DE DOÑA PEPA MAZAMORRA This is a sweet, sticky, chewy and A pudding made from purple corn, and crunchy cake made from layers of anise PACHAMANCAHIGHLANDS/SOUTH COAST seasoned with cinnamon, it is especially sticks that have been soaked in Popular in the highlands, this is a style of cooking delicious paired witharroz con leche. molasses and topped with colorful where meats and are cooked over pre- candies and sprinkles. Traditionally heated stones in a hole in the ground. Some prepared around the month of October, restaurants serve this but may need advance notice. to coincide with theSeñor de Milagros Fried , by any other name. Usually festival in Lima. from a dough ROCOTORELLENOAREQUIPA Spicyrocoto (red chilli pepper) stuffed with and onion and then baked with cheese on top. A specialty of the Arequipa region.

SECO DE CORDERO ORCABRITOLIMA/NORTH COAST Beer-braised lamb or kid stew seasoned with plentiful fresh coriander, chilli and cumin, and accompanied by either yellow potatoes or white .

SUSPIRO A LA LIMEÑA TACU TACULIMA A type ofdulce de leche or caramel A combination of mashed pudding, topped by fluffy meringue together into a thick and creamy paste. Can be made with port wine and sprinkled accompanied by a steak, fried plantains, seafood with cinnamon. sauce, or even a fried egg.

12 13 Beverages to Try PISCO The country’s national liquor, pisco is a brandy made from grapes, enjoyed straight or used in cocktails. See A non-alcoholic sweet and refreshing pages 94-95 for more details. drink made from purple corn with traces of cinnamon and clove. Although there are other classic COCA made from pisco, this is the Peruvian Made from coca leaves, it really does national drink and, therefore, a must- help adjust to the altitude and is highly try. You will be offered free ones recommended for those arriving in the everywhere but try one at a place that’s highlands. known for them so you know you’ve had the real deal. CRAFT BEERS The craft beer scene in Peru has CHICHA DE JORA exploded, particularly in Lima where there are now about 20 different microbreweries. Barbarian and Sierra Andina are well established with different styles from IPA to porter.

EMOLIENTE Served at practically every other street corner, this is a gloopy herbal tea that Peruvians swear by to warm themselves up during colder months.

A slightly alcoholic drink made from CHILCANO germinated, fermented corn. It is Simple and popular cocktail definitely an but worth combining pisco with ale, key trying, if only to say you have done so. lime juice and ice. Topped with a dash of Angostura bitters and garnished with a slice of key lime. There are dozens of variations that can be made by macerating different ingredients in the pisco used as a base for the Chilcano, such as fruits, herbs or even Different flavors spicy chillies. ofChilcano cocktail

14 15 Close to 4,000 varieties of potatoes Fun Food Facts grow in Peru (where the plant originated) and more than 55 types of One cup of cooked quinoa contains 8 corn. grams of , making it one of the most protein-rich foods available. It also contains all nine essential amino acids, twice as much fiber as other , iron, , magnesium, and Riboflavin (B2). The Peruvians eat guinea pigs! The idea of Incas called it their “Golden ” or what in other places can be a “Mother Grain” and the UN named beloved child’s pet can take a bit of 2013 “International Year of Quinoa”. getting used to but it is a to Peruvian highlanders. It is most often originated with the pre- served al horno (roasted in the oven) in Columbian peoples of Peru, where it the highlands and comes to your table was calledch’arki and originally made whole, complete with head and claws. from alpaca or llama. Another way you may see it offered is chactado, or deep-fried. If you are Kiwicha, another high protein grain- intrigued to trycuy but prefer something like product that grows natively in that leaves a bit more to the Peru is in the amaranth family. imagination, there are many finer restaurants that serve dishes that are simply made with the meat. For example, Cicciolina, Limo, and Incanto in Cusco or La Gloria in Lima all offer more subtle ways to give it a try.

Peru is one of the few countries in the world where the best selling fizzy drink Camu-camu, a fruit that grows in the is not Coca Cola. Inca Kola is a sweet, Amazon, has a higher concentration bright-yellow pop of lemongrass flavor, of C than any other fruit in the which is ubiquitous in the country. It world, 60 times more than the humble was described as Argentinian writer orange. Jorge Luis Borges as “an implausible drink”.

Peru is the world’s largest exporter of fresh asparagus.

“Canchitas”, a made with Peruvian corn

16 17 DIGESTIVE PROBLEMS PAYMENT Need To Know This is not uncommon as you travel, If you are not in one of the tourist- given that any new place will have oriented restaurants, there’s a good microbes that your tummy is not used chance that credit cards won’t be ALTITUDE to. It is an unfortunate truth that, accepted. In addition, small restaurants One of the effects of altitude is to despite following stringent hygiene (like small shops) often don’t have slow your digestion down. Be careful rules, even the best restaurants are change. It’s a good idea to use the not to overeat on your first night prone to complaints about food largest bills you can at bigger especially, and try to avoid eating poisoning once or twice. As a general establishments, saving the smaller greasy food. It’s also best to avoid rule, unless you are in a 5-star or change for the smaller venues. alcohol when you first get to a place tourist-oriented restaurant, avoid non- of high altitude such as Cusco and local seafood as well as raw vegetables Puno. and unpeeled fruit. TIPPING Bear in mind that, as mentioned above, Although tipping was once only altitude can cause issues such as expected at the places that catered to ATTIRE sluggish digestion, nausea, and tourists, it is now normal for foreigners In most of Peru, you can go out to eat constipation. Many medications are at least to tip at all restaurants other in the nicest restaurants without available for these ailments over the than small menu places catering to dressing up for the occasion. In Lima, counter but it’s not a bad idea to pack locals, or street vendors. The expected however, if you’re dining at an upscale whatever you prefer for this kind of amount is 10%, although more for place, you’ll feel more comfortable if ailment and if you don’t start feeling exemplery service is certainly you make more a bit an effort better after a day, seek medical advice. appreciated. although this does not necessarily mean a suit and tie. More Peruvians go out for expensive meals in Lima PATIENCE WATER and, just like most cities, people like You will find that once you get out of Perhaps it goes without saying, but do to make it special. Lima, customer service often doesn’t not drink anything but bottled water match what you’re used to at home. anywhere in Peru. In the cities, it can be Such things as waiting a long time to highly chlorinated and outside the city FISH AND SEAFOOD get served (or even to get the menu), it is not treated at all and can be Unless you are in a 4- or 5-star dishes not coming out all together, and swimming with bacteria. restaurant, stick to local fish when appetizers not coming out before you are in the highlands and save the mains are fairly commonplace. Choose experimenting for the coastal areas, your restaurant carefully if you are in a ICE CUBES including Lima. In the Andes, this rush, and be sure to mention that to With regard to ice cubes, reputable means that you are better off with your server. establishments will purchase bags of at the smaller establishments. In ice that have been made with filtered the jungle there are local river fish to water. If you are in any doubt when you try, although in Puerto Maldonado visit a more rustic restaurant, do 60% of fish sold in the town were without. recently found to contain unsafe levels of mercury, a result of run-offs from activity.

18 19 LIMA

Fishing boats at Chorrillos harbour in Lima

20 21 influence of Spanish food was such as quinoa, kiwicha, alpaca meat find traditional desserts sold pretty Lima inevitable, with conquistadors and and Andean potatoes were blended much everywhere, both on the street colonists bringing culinary traditions with coastal Peruvian and even and in restaurants. These include Lima is one of the world’s classic from the Iberian Peninsula to the New international dishes (think quinoa mazamorra morada, a thick pudding culinary melting pots, a place where World -- albeit adapted to make use of risotto). made from purple corn and fruit, and Peruvian history and foreign cultures local ingredients. Despite this lengthy and continual the ubiquitoussuspiro limeño, a sigh- combine to create -- and continually Later, in the mid-1800s, more than one evolution, classic dishes are inducing dessert of manjar blanco evolve -- some of the country’s hundred thousand Chinese contract indispensable for mostLimeños () and cinnamon- signature dishes. laborers, mostly , began to (residents of Lima). Ceviche is ever- sprinkled meringue. The Peruvian capital has a culinary arrive in Peru through Lima. Yet present in the coastal capital, be it So where will you find all this Lima scene that remains refreshingly free of another wave of gastronomic straight from a stall in the Chorrillos fare? Well, the relatively upscale gimmicks and pretentions, a scene adaptation began, resulting inchifa , fish market or freshly prepared in an districts of Miraflores and San Isidro that honors as much as it the Peruvian-Cantonese fusion that is elegantcevichería . Other essentials are always good for fine dining, while does the modern fusions of the city’s now an essential part of the national include the mildly spicy and creamyají Barranco has everything from rustic most acclaimed chefs. While you may cuisine. de gallina, the Asian stir-fry inspired cevicherías to traditional pisco-fueled be dazzled by the culinary creativity at Not all of Lima’s culinary influences and the summer classic peñas. Central Lima is a mix of old- one of Lima’s elegant seafront came from across the seas. Cooking causa limeña, a layered dish of school cafes, street vendors, elegant restaurants, there’s a good chance techniques and ingredients from the mashed yellow potatoes, vegetables hotel restaurants and dining halls you’ll discover your favorite dish while jungle and especially the Andean and chicken or fish. On the street, selling set-lunch menús. Downtown sitting at a simple food stall in one of regions of Peru have also shaped the meanwhile,anticuchos are king. Lima is also home to thebarrio chino, Lima’s chaotic, sprawling markets. city’s gastronomic outlook. The Typically made using marinated beef or , where you can find Lima itself was founded by the highland influence led to the heart, these grilled and skewered inexpensive all-you-can-eatchifa Spanish conquistador Francisco development of cocina novoandina in sticks of meat represent the fusion of , perfect for exploring Lima’s Pizarro in 1535. The area was already the late 1980s, a new-Andean style of Spanish and African heritage in one Cantonese-inspired offerings. inhabited by civilizations that had cooking that found a home in the single, delicious snack. Read on for detailed listings and irrigated the valleys of the coast. The capital, where traditional ingredients Sweet-toothed culinary travelers will recommendations.

Bay Scallops at Central restaurant

22 23 all who live there, and starting out by URBAN - COOKING CLASS THE CHEF’S TABLE - COOKING Culinary Experiences visiting a local market is a great WITH IGNACIO BARRIOS DEMONSTRATION AND opportunity to see not only the variety WITH PEDRO MIGUEL SCHIAFFINO In Lima of foods that Peru has to offer but also to interact with some of the locals. “LIMA WITH ZEST” © - CULINARY Ending the experience with a cooking CLASS WITH CHEF PENELOPE class guarantees that you will be able ALZAMORA to continue enjoying the flavors of Peru long after you’ve gone home. As There’s no better way to get to know the class is in Barranco, you’ll be able what Lima has to offer to stroll around some of the area’s than to take a half or full day tour led many art galleries afterward – a great by a top chef like Penelope. A country’s way to end the day. food is near and dear to the hearts of

Get to know the city’s thriving culinary scene starting with a visit to one of Lima’s popular local markets, led by Known for championing authentic and Peruvian professional chef Ignacio unusual ingredients from all over Peru, Barrios. He started Urban Kitchen to including the Amazon, esteemed chef share his love and passion for Pedro Miguel Schiaffino has gained a Peruvian food with visitors and locals global reputation for the bold, exciting alike. flavors from his Malabar restaurant in Peruse the stalls and learn about Lima, included in San Pelegrino’s list of exotic fruits, vegetables and other Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. A produce that are essential elements of charismatic character, Pedro will lead Peruvian cuisine. Ignacio will then you on a voyage of discovery for your accompany you to Urban Kitchen for taste buds, as he and his assistant your private cooking lesson where prepare five sumptuous courses right you’ll begin by preparing a classic in front of you. chilcano cocktail - a refreshing and While you don’t get your hands dirty, popular Peruvian drink made with this is an interactive experience where Pisco. Ignacio will share insight into you’ll get to see and sample a variety some of the social and cultural of unusual ingredients. After a aspects of Peru’s rich culinary history welcome cocktail, watch the master at as you learn to four dishes work as he effortlessly prepares your hands-on under his expert guidance, creative fine-dining meal in a private using fresh ingredients. cooking and dining space, above the Thanks to the diversity of Peruvian main restaurant. As you dine on his food products and the influences on inventive creations, Pedro shares cooking traditions, you can choose in stories and anecdotes about his advance from several menu options passion for Peruvian food, such as his that demonstrate Peru’s international projects sourcing sustainable acclaim as a “mecca” of gastronomy. ingredients from the Amazon and more.

24 25 “URBAN EATS” © - PERUVIAN CHORRILLOS BEACH aficionados are not so fussy and this foodies’ hearts. Lima is most famous STREET FOOD TOUR week sees the creation of all kinds of for sole ceviche, so you’ll definitely If you’re up for a really local experience new drinks with the original being the want to try it on this holiday. Drop by a without the elegant ambiance of base but with a multitude of other local restaurant for a taste of special Lima’s 5-star restaurants, head down flavors added. dishes and offers. to the beach at Chorrillos. There, you will find a number of little shacks PISCO DÍADELPISCO4 TH SUNDAY IN JULY serving up some of the tastiest SOURDAY1ST SATURDAY IN FEBRUARY ceviche and fried seafood you can find, Pisco is perhaps Peru’s most famous washed down with a probably not ice The first Saturday in February marks export. The tasty grape brandy is of cold beer. You’ll be rubbing shoulders the celebration of the pisco sour, course the key ingredient of the Pisco Explore the streets of Lima’s with the regular folk of Lima, who may Peru’s national drink, when barmen all Sour cocktail, but it’s also plenty neighborhoods with a local expert, show up for an early fish , over the country compete to see who famous on its own. Peru nods to the seeking out huariques that offer especially after a night out on the makes the best cocktail. As with the cocktail with a special Pisco Sour Day simple, fresh and authentic Peruvian town. chilcano, the traditional sour has been each February, but Pisco itself also flavors. Sample classic street food joined by many other varieties some of gets a special day of honor, on the such as ceviche, causa and anticuchos, BARRANCO FOOD FAIR which are made by the addition of fourth Sunday of each July. and learn about the ingredients that go different fruit, such as the popular Lima is one of the regions of Peru that into these dishes. Another more local way of getting maracuya sour (made with passion produces Pisco - along with Arequipa, some typical fare is by grazing along fruit) while others use as a base a Moquegua, Tacna, and Ica - so you’ll “IN GOOD SPIRIT” © – LEARNING the Taste of Barranco food festival. pisco that has been infused with find all kinds of celebrations ABOUT PERU’S NATIONAL LIQUOR Held occasionally by the main plaza, something, such as coca leaves, thus throughout the city. Nearby vineyards you can choose from a variety of creating a coca sour. and pisco wineries, which are already Lima’s more quintessential dishes crowded year-round, will especially including main courses as well as DÍADELAPAPAMAY 30TH come to life on this day with desserts and beverages. If the Food celebrations. In the city, expect pop-up Fair isn’t on, you can always check out Potatoes are a staple crop throughout pisco markets, tastings, and of course, the organic market in Barranco every Peru, so each year, Lima (along with custom cocktails. Sunday at the back of Chipoco the rest of Peru) pulls out all the stops stadium. to celebrate Dia Nacional de la Papa - DÍA DEL National Potato Day. Local POLLOALABRASA3 RD SUNDAY IN JULY You’ll visit one of the best bars and organizations will highlight the restaurants in Lima – Malabar – where ANNUAL EVENTS importance of preserving farming On the third Sunday of every July, Peru you’ll find out just why pisco is Peru’s traditions and natural resources, and celebrates a special day honoring pride and joy. Pisco is made from CHILCANO WEEK2ND WEEK OF JANUARY restaurants will offer up special roast chicken, known as pollo a la grapes so it comes in varieties much and drinks that showcase the many brasa. With more than 130 million like wine does, although not nearly so Each January, around the second week varieties of potatoes that grow in Peru. rotisserie chickens consumed in Peru many. Depending on the single grape of the month, Peru celebrates Chilcano (Don’t try to name them all - there are each year, it’s a popular dish for a tasty or blend used, the taste can vary Week which, as of 2015, started more than 4,000 varieties!) lunch or out - especially when greatly. As part of your educational creeping up to being a 9 day event. The served with a side of fries and a salad. experience, you’ll get to sample the chilcano is a cocktail made with pisco DIADELCEVICHEJUNE 28TH Celebrate the holiday by paying a visit finest Peruvian . This tour can and ginger ale, with preference being toaLimapollería, or rotisserie chicken take place any time during the year, given to a ginger brew that is On June 28, Peru celebrates National restaurant, for special menu options. and is done either before or after homemade. Although purists say that Ceviche Day, in which it honors the lunch, or before or after dinner. is the only true chilcano, most tasty fresh fish dish that is so close to

26 27 ASTRID Y GASTÓN LAGLORIAGOURMET - $$$ ÁMAZAMAZONIAN - $$$ Listings - Lima CASAMOREYRAGOURMET - $$$ Well-established for some two decades, World-renowned restaurant of Chef La Gloria features fine Mediterranean Gaston Acurio, known as the pioneer cuisine. It’s known as the preferred of Peruvian high cuisine. This new restaurant of the more traditional of venue is in a refurbished mansion and Lima’s gastronomic connoisseurs and CENTRALGOURMET - $$$ has a tasting menu with more than 20 for the quality of its seafood. courses in the main restaurant, as Calle Atahualpa 201, Miraflores much entertainment as a fine dining (01) 445-5705 / 446-6504 experience. A menu ofá la carte Monday to Saturday 1pm-4pm, 8pm- options is available in a separate 12am dining area called La Barra. Listed at www.lagloriarestaurant.com number 67 in the world by San Creative Amazonian bar and Pellegrino in 2019 and number 13 in MALABARGOURMET - $$$ restaurant from Malabar’s chef Latin America. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. Not only Creative fusion cuisine with a strong Casa Moreyra, Av. Paz Soldán 290, does the food feature products from Part of Lima’s leap to the forefront emphasis on ingredients from the San Isidro the jungle, so does the bar’s creative of the world’s finest cuisine has to rainforest by master chef Pedro Miguel Rest: (01) 442-2775 / 442-2777; drink menu. Known for its chorizo be due to the work of master chefs Schiaffino. The menu is seasonal and Bar: (01) 442-2774 oil-drizzled snails. here, such as Virgilio Martinez Véliz. freshest products are guaranteed. As His Central offers an ambitious and Rest: Monday to Saturday 1pm-3pm, with many Lima restaurants these Av. La Paz 1079, Miraflores 7pm-11pm; Sundays 12.30pm-3.30pm worldly fusion of tastes, using days, a tasting menu is available. Décor (01) 221-9393 / 221-9880 native ingredients from all over Bar: Monday to Saturday 12pm-4pm, is contemporary and the bar is one of Monday to Thursday 12.30pm- 7pm-12am; Sundays 12pm-5pm Peru. Two choices of tasting menus Lima’s most popular. Listed at no. 48 in 11.30pm; Fridays and Saturdays are also available and these must be www.astridygaston.com Latin America by San Pellegrino. 12.30pm-12am; Sundays 12.30pm- requested at the time of your Av. Camino Real 101, San Isidro 4.30pm reservation. In 2019 Central was RAFAELGOURMET - $$$ (01) 440-5200 / 440-5300 www.amaz.com.pe listed as the sixth best restaurant in Rafael is one of the best examples of Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-4pm, the world by San Pellegrino in their Lima’s contemporary gourmet 7.30pm-11.30pm annual list of the world’s 50 best restaurants, regularly appearing on the www.malabar.com.pe I.K.GOURMET - $$$ restaurants and number 2 in Latin list of Latin America’s 50 Best An exciting gourmet offering in Lima America. Restaurants. Rafael Osterling is a NEW MAYTAGOURMET - $$$ that is the legacy of chef Ivan Kisic. Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco superb chef, and his cuisine combines The presentation is as innovative as Mayta is all about bringing *Very advanced booking essential the finest ingredients found in Peru. the dishes themselves and three contemporary techniques to classic (approx. 3 months) Listed at number 19 in Latin America tasting menus are also available of 6, 8 Peruvian cuisine. Creativity is prized (01) 242-8515 / 242-8575 by San Pellegrino in their annual list of or 10 items. The restaurant is also the world’s 50 best restaurants. here, so you’ll find innovative dishes that known for the extent of its wine menu. Monday to Friday 12.45pm-4.30pm, are sure to hit the spot. Listed at no. 49 Calle San Martín 300, Miraflores 7.45pm-12pm; Saturdays 7.45pm- in Latin America by San Pellegrino. Calle Elías Aguirre 179, Miraflores 12pm. Closed Sundays. (01) 242-4149 Av. La Mar 1285, Miraflores (01) 652-1692 www.centralrestaurante.com.pe Monday to Wednesday 1pm-3pm, 8pm- 937 220 734 / (01) 422-6708 Tuesday to Thursday 12.30pm-3pm, 11pm; Thursdays and Fridays 1pm- 7.30pm-11pm; Fridays and Saturdays 3pm, 8pm-12am; Saturdays 8pm-12am Monday to Saturday 7.30pm-11.30pm; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 7.30pm-11.30pm Mondays and Sundays 12.30pm-4pm www.rafaelosterling.pe www.ivankisic.pe www.maytalima.com

28 29 NEW NEW KJOLLEGOURMET - $$$ STATERAGOURMET- $$$ SEAFOOD LA MAR Chef André Patsias leads a young, CEBICHERÍA PERUANASEAFOOD - $$ dedicated team of food innovators at this fine-dining restaurant. Local COSTANERA700SEAFOOD - $$ Peruvian ingredients are refined by One of Lima’s finest fish restaurants tireless research in the kitchen - and with Japanese culinary touches and the result is a fantastic taste. including a selection of . The Av. Mariscal La Mar 463, Miraflores Asian flair extends to the décor, making it an elegant spot for a romantic meal. (01) 306-0628 On the expensive side and a favorite for Tuesday to Saturday 12.45pm-3.15pm; culinary connoisseurs. Best for lunch. 8pm-10.15pm; Sundays 12.45pm- Calle Manuel Tovar 179, Miraflores 3.15pm No discussion of seafood www.staterarestaurante.pe (01) 421-7508 / 421-4635 restaurants in Lima is complete This new arrival is the creation of Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-11pm; without mentioning La Mar, the award-winning chef Pia León, who Sundays 12.30pm-5pm NEW ATMANPOP UP GOURMET - $$$ creation of Gaston Acurio. Choose cut her teeth as co-chef at the www.costanera700.com from not just ceviches and tiraditos This innovative establishment hosts world-famous Central restaurant. but tacu tacu, and , all just 10 guests at a time around a Kjolle’s diverse range of local ELMERCADOSEAFOOD - $$ with the freshest products from the ingredients offer up a unique take shared table, so the social experience Another hit from top chef Rafael sea and Acurio’s own personal on South . Listed is as notable as the food itself. Led by Osterling, El Mercado serves delicious touch. It is advised to arrive early to at number 21 in Latin America by renowned chef Diego Muñoz, Atman criollo seafood favorites in a variety of avoid the lunchtime rush. Listed at San Pellegrino in their annual list of offers up creative and experimental different house styles with both local number 26 in Latin America by San the world’s 50 best restaurants. dishes. and international influences. A popular Pellegrino. NOT OPEN YET - CLOSED DOORS ONLY Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco lunch spot and a great introduction to Av. La Mar 770, Miraflores (01) 242 8575 987 557 104 the variety of flavors found in Lima. (01) 421-3365 Monday to Saturday 12.45pm- www.diegomunozchef.com Calle Hipólito Unanue 203, Miraflores Monday-Thursday 12pm-5pm; Friday 1.30pm, 7.45pm-8.30pm (01) 221-1322 to Sunday & holidays 12pm-5.30pm www.kjolle.com LAROSANAUTICAGOURMET - $$$ Tuesday to Sunday 12.30pm-5pm www.lamarcebicheria.com/lima One of Lima’s most well-known www.rafaelosterling.pe/es/el-mercado.html NEW MERITOGOURMET - $$$ upscale restaurants, famous for its LARANAVERDESEAFOOD - $$ spectacular location on a wooden pier One of the most important additions to PESCADOS CAPITALESSEAFOOD - $$ Rustic on a the Lima culinary scene in 2018, jutting out into the Pacific ocean. Not Well-prepared, traditional . wooden pier overlooking yachts in Merito combines Peruvian and noted for exceptional food, however, Many dishes have names related to the harbour and out towards San Venezuelan influences. With an which pales in comparison to other seven capital sins. (Play on words with Lorenzo island. Specializes in dishes exposed kitchen and contemporary gourmet restaurants in the city. the restaurant name - pecados capitales with lenguado (sole). atmosphere, Merito is cozy and Espigón 4 Circuito de Playas, Miraflores translates as “seven sins” in Spanish, Jr. General Valle, “Club Universitario welcoming. (01) 445-0149 / 447-0057 whereas pescado simply means “fish”). Regatas”, Parque Galvez s/n, La Punta, Callao Jr. 28 De Julio 206, Barranco Monday to Sunday 12pm-12am Av. La Mar 1337, Miraflores (01) 429-5279 / 429-8453 (01) 277-1628 www.larosanautica.com (01) 421-8808 Monday to Saturday 7.30pm-11pm Tuesday to Saturday 12pm-11pm; Daily 12.30pm-5pm www.meritorestaurante.com Sundays 12pm-5pm www.pescadoscapitales.com

30 31 CALA CANTARANASEAFOOD - $ ALTOKEPEZSEAFOOD - $ BARRACHALACASEAFOOD - $ RESTAURANT&BARSEAFOOD - $$ Having been one of Barranco’s most A little ceviche bar by the Gastón Fabulous setting right by the ocean popular local restaurants for 30 years, Acurio restaurant group with generous featuring a Peruvian fusion menu, with Canta Rana’s extensive menu covers a portions and a local Lima atmosphere. a focus on seafood. Recommended range of Peruvian seafood classics Av. Camino Real 1239, San Isidro and offers abundant portions. for lunch or drinks before or after (01) 422-1465 dinner. The setting couldn’t be more can be found in squid ink romantic and there’s even a private with , tiradito topped with Daily 11am-5pm den. Really lovely at sunset– make a avocado or cured tuna. The high walls www.barrachalaca.pe reservation for a terrace table. are crammed with football Espigón B.2 Circuito de Playas, Barranco memorabilia as well as photos of the HIJODEOLAYASEAFOOD - $ Argentinian owner with his friends. (01) 477-2020 Vastly popular hole-in-the-wall, A hole in the wall with stools lined up Sunday to Wednesday 12pm-12am; Genova 101, Barranco 999 134 343 serving a trio of staple dishes made against either wall, Hijo de Olaya Thursday to Saturday 12pm-2.30am Tuesday to Saturday, 11am-10pm; from fish and seafood freshly serves only three dishes; ceviche, www.calarestaurante.com Sundays and Mondays, 11am-7pm sourced each day from the market. chicharron de calamar and arroz con There is some Japanese influence mariscos. The of the three and the quality of the food has combined is delicious, and a stop here ALFRESCOSEAFOOD - $$ SONIASEAFOOD - $$ In Lima’s Chorrillos neighborhood, attracted plenty of media attention. during the afternoon is a great way to A Miraflores classic, with an extensive There are a few stools set up next to mingle with local Limeños. menu of Peruvian seafood dishes. Sonia draws a lunchtime crowd with live music, great seafood, and the the stove and only cash is accepted. Comandante Espinar 849, Miraflores Recently relaunched and re-located Very reasonable pricing, expect jovial presence of Sonia and her (01) 241-0941 within Miraflores area. The new queues at lunchtime. restaurant has been design by well- fisherman husband, Freddy. Order Av. Angamos 886, Monday to Saturday 11.30am-3pm known Peruvian architect, Jordi Puig, de camarones or chupe de langostinos, a delicious seafood soup Daily 11.30am-3.30pm this added to their excellent quality, ELCEVICHEDERONALDCEVICHE - $ makes it a not- to- miss experience. with river or sea crayfish. Agustin Lozano La Rosa Nº 173, AMORAMARSEAFOOD - $$$ This cramped streetside stall just Av. 28 de Julio 331, Miraflores serves ceviche, but it might just be the Chorrillos Innovative flourishes on typical seafood 979 701 279 best ceviche you can find in Lima. (01) 249 6850 / 251 6693 dishes in a smart, casual atmosphere in Daily 12pm-11pm Perfect seasoning served in ceramic Daily 12pm-5pm Barranco. Has the feel of a swish insider plates and accompanied by chicharron www.restaurantsonia.com club, with covered outdoor seating and de pescado. All this a steal at just 15 CHEZWONGCEVICHE - $$ contemporary art on the walls. There is soles. Chef Javier Wong is renowned in Peru a well stocked bar including pisco ELMUELLESEAFOOD - $ for slicing up the best ceviche from flavored with mascerated ingredients as Ignacio Merino 2427, Lince lenguado (sole). His restaurant is Offering an ample variety of fish and well as a variety of cocktails and . (01) 222-2009 tucked away in the neighborhood of La seafood dishes, such as ceviche, Garcia y Garcia 175, Barranco Wednesday to Monday 11.30am-4pm chicharron and rice dishes, El Muelle is Victoria, with a simple menu of ceviche (01) 619-3535 followed by stir fry, which you can most popular with the younger order either or salty. Barranco crowd. The streetside terrace Tuesday to Saturday 12.30-4pm, 8pm- makes this the ideal place to enjoy a 11pm; Sundays 12.30pm-4.30pm Enrique León García 114, La Victoria ceviche with a beer in the sun. www.amoramar.com Tuesday to Saturday 1pm-3.30pm Alfonso Ugarte 225, Barranco (01) 470-6217 (01) 252-8643 Daily 11am-6pm

32 33 EL BODEGO N CRIOLLO - $$ CRIOLLO ́ LAPICANTERIACRIOLLO - $$ ISOLINA TABERNA A classic style taberna limeña, or Lima , by the famous chef Gastón PERUANACRIOLLO - $$ NEW KAÑETE GOURMET CRIOLLO - $$ Acurio. The casual restaurant gives a Enjoy gourmet Creole among a family- taste of authentic Peruvian culture and oriented and nostalgic atmosphere. cuisine offering thick soups and , Dishes are inspired by the chef’s roots over flowing , delicious in Callao and traditional recipes. Pisco cocktails, and more all at a Calle Santa Rosa 345, Surquillo. reasonable price. Calle Tarapacá 197, Miraflores (01) 455-6095 (01) 445-6222 Daily 12.30pm-4pm; Thursday to Saturday 7.30pm-11.30pm Set in a converted house in the old Monday to Saturday 12pm-12am; From the same owners as Fiesta Sundays 11am-9pm www.kañete.com seaside resort of Barranco, this Chiclayo Gourmet, this is a more tavern recreates criollo dishes as www.elbodegon.com.pe casual spot, frequented by locals, near Lima’s Surquillo Market. It’s FIESTA CHICLAYO they would traditionally have been prepared at home. Surprises include bustling with lunchtime clientele– CRIOLLO - $$$ HUACAPUCLLANACRIOLLO - $$ GOURMET Tapas with Pejerrey, while the only you may have to jostle for a seat! Renowned for bringing cuisine from Delicious refined Peruvian cuisine right Offers plates á la carte as well as ceviche platter is shared between next to the Huaca Pucllana Peru’s northern coast into the two people, and it’s served with daily specials such as the catch of mainstream with a generous offering archaeological complex. The décor is the day. crunchy deep fried octopus. Listed elegant, with pre-Colombian pieces. It is of norteño specialties such as Arroz Calle Francisco Moreno 388, at number 12 in Latin America by recommended for a late afternoon lunch con Pato (duck with herb-seasoned San Pellegrino in their annual list of Surquillo rice). as the views of the Huaca from the open the world’s 50 best restaurants. terrace are remarkable, although seeing (01) 241-6676 Av. Reducto 1278, Miraflores Avenida San Martín Prolongacion it lit up at night is also remarkable. (The Monday to Saturday 11am-5pm (01) 242-9009 101, Barranco Huaca is a pyramid built of mud bricks www.picanteriasdelperu.com Monday to Friday 12.30pm-12am; (01) 247-5075 from pre-Inca times, most likely from the Saturdays and Sundays 12.30pm-5pm Sundays and Mondays, 10am-5pm; 4th century or earlier.) EL RINCÓN www.restaurantfiestagourmet.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10am-11pm General Borgoña cdra. 8, Huaca QUENOCONOCESCRIOLLO - $$ Pucllana Miraflores www.isolina.pe Legendary on the Lima culinary scene, JOSEANTONIOCRIOLLO - $$ (01) 445-4042 the restaurant of the late Teresa A classic criollo food venue for limeños, SEÑORIODESULCOCRIOLLO - $$ Daily 12pm-4pm, 7pm-12am Izquerdo is a great example of a serving delicious traditional favorites. Traditional criollo food in a bustling www.resthuacapucllana.com typical criollo . The colorful array Excellent buffet served at midday. Great atmosphere, popular with tourists. of dishes contain plentiful servings of place to try out some classic fare in a Isabel Alvarez, the restaurant’s owner, NEW LASREYESGOURMET CRIOLLO - $$ adobos, secos and carapulcras and Spanish colonial atmosphere. has penned a number of . the all-you-can-eat policy will not leave Enjoy high-end Peruvian creole with Offers buffet, á la carte or three you wanting after a lunchtime spent Jr. Bernardo Monteagudo 200, San Isidro beautifully presented dishes and a different tasting menus. here. (01) 264-0188 / 264-3284 family-oriented atmosphere. Malecón Cisneros 1470, Miraflores Calle Bernardo Alcedo 363, Lince Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-4.30pm, Federico Villareal 312, Miraflores. 7.30pm-11.30pm; Sundays 12.30pm- (01) 441-0183 / 441-0389 (01) 471-2171 (01) 693-9022 4.30pm, 7.30pm-10.30pm Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-12am; Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-5pm www.joseantonio.com.pe Sundays 12.30pm-4.30pm Monday to Saturday 12pm-11pm; Sundays 12pm-5pm www.elrinconquenoconoces.pe www.senoriodesulco.com

34 35 CAFETOSTADOCRIOLLO - $ NEW SIETECASUAL GOURMET - $$ LA73CASUAL GOURMET - $$ A family run joint with a rustic CASUAL This charming Barranco establishment A well-frequented eatery in Barranco atmosphere, well established in the is helmed by chef Ricardo Martin. Here with an airy covered terrace area. neighborhood. Long wooden benches NEW you’ll find a cozy atmosphere that Dishes include seafood, pasta and and tables give a cozy feel. Specializes MÓBISTRÓCASUAL GOURMET - $$ features Mediterranean touches to meat and the menu rotates regularly in homemade criollo dishes on a set classic Peruvian flavors. with seasonal options. menu at lunchtime, they prepare a set Jirón Domeyer 260, Barranco Av. El Sol Este 175, Barranco dish for each day of the week. Also try (01) 247-0780 either the rabbit or mushroom fried in 966 320 855 and oil to accompany beers Tuesday to Saturday 12.30pm-3pm Tuesday to Saturday 12.30m-4pm, 8pm-11pm; Sundays 12.30pm- 4.30pm with friends. 7.30pm-12am; Sundays 1pm-4pm Calle Nicolás de Piérola 232, Barranco www.restaurantela73.com NEW CASUAL GOURMET - $$ (01) 247-7133 JERONIMO With an unpretentious yet POPULARCASUAL GOURMET - $$ Daily 1pm-8pm sophisticated vibe, Jeronimo has an A contemporary gourmet restaurant in Working only with seasonal exotic menu, eclectic house cocktails, the Larcomar mall with a view over the LALUCHACRIOLLO SANDWICHES - $ ingredients, Mó Bistró favors and an up beat staff. ocean. As the name suggests, the Traditional Peruvian sandwiches are delicious organic and vegetarian Av. Mariscal La Mar 1209, Miraflores recipes focus on Peruvian favorites - the speciality at La Lucha, where you offerings. The menu regularly wide range of appetisers and main can get hot meat sandwiches of all changes to reflect the season, so (01) 494-7336 courses to cater to all tastes. descriptions accompanied by various you can always expect variety. Tuesday to Saturday 1pm-3.30pm, 7.30 Larcomar, Malecón de la Reserva 610, sauces. Try the chicharrones or turkey Angamos Oeste 1146 Miraflores, Lima to 11pm; Sundasy 1pm-4pm Miraflores or pork cooked “a la leña” (on a wood 986 006 575 (01) 444 5070 / 977534028 stove), accompanied by tasty french NEW Monday to Friday 8am-11pm; FRIDAMEXICAN GOURMET - $$ fries handcut from Andean potatoes Daily 8am-12am Sundays 8.30am-4pm Frida is the finest Mexican restaurant and an assortment of fruit juices and www.popular.pe www.mobistro-restaurant.negocio.site/ in Peru. Each dish on Frida’s milkshakes. sophisticated menu creatively plays Diagonal 308, Miraflores with textures, scenes, and colors for T’ANTACASUAL GOURMET - $$ NEW LANIÑAGOURMET - $$ (01) 241-5953 fantastic flavor and presentation. A restaurant and café by Gaston Acurio Here you’ll find seasonal ingredients and and his team with 10 locations. Sunday to Thursday 8am-1am; Fridays regional flavors that draw on Peruvian Calle Gral. Mendiburu 793, Miraflores. and Saturdays 8am-3am Delicious blend of local and European tradition. A regularly changing menu, (01) 778-8618 flavors. Traditional dishes with a local www.lalucha.com.pe fantastic cocktails, and top notch wine Tuesdays 12.30pm-4pm; 7.30pm-11pm; twist and an abundance of and make for a experience at a Sundays 12.30pm-4pm desserts to satisfy your sweet tooth. much more affordable price. Consider www.restaurantefrida.com Av Vasco Núñez de Balboa 660, trying the tasting menu, which offers an Miraflores 15074 - (01) 444-5231 interesting range of flavors. NEW DE LA CHOLA PIZZERIA - $ Malecon de la Reserva 610, Miraflores - Francisco de Paula Camino 299, (01)446-9357 Miraflores. Pan de la Chola’s sibling, where you’ll find fine artisan Napolitan-style pizza Pasaje Nicolas de Rivera 142, Lima - (01) 363-7194 / 922 816 262 fresh from the oven. (01) 428-3115 Monday to Thursday 4pm-1am; Fridays Daily 9am-12am. and Saturdays 4pm-3am Av. Mariscal La Mar 918, Miraflores www.tantaperu.com www.lanina.pe Tuesday to Saturday 8am-11pm; Sundays 9am-3pm

36 37 LAPLAZITACASUAL GOURMET - $$ NEW COSMECASUAL GOURMET - $$ NIKKEI SHIZEN BARRANIKKEI / SUSHI - $$ Mediterranean-style eatery with a leafy (PERUVIAN-JAPANESE FUSION) This casual establishment serves terraza, great for a casual lunch with excellent Nikkei. salads and sandwiches. Pastas and NEW MAKETTONIKKEI / SUSHI - $$ Calle General Borgoño 286, Miraflores more substantial dishes also available 993 731 239 as well as a full bar and decent wine list. Chef Javier Miyasato of restaurant Bao returns with this inspired take on Tuesday to Friday & Sundays 12:30pm- San Fernando 380 (corner with Av. 4pm; Tuesday to Friday 7pm-12pm Vasco Nuñez de Balboa), Miraflores Japense-Peruvian . Av. Mariscal La Mar 830, Miraflores 994-972-336 NEW KAIKANNIKKEI / SUSHI - $$ Monday to Saturday 12pm-11.30pm; (01) 4098017 Sunday 12.30pm-5pm Tuesday to Sunday 12.30pm-11pm When you step off the street into Kaikan, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped www.laplazitalima.com Hip and trendy restaurant and bar into your own little universe. Feast on with an innovative Peruvian menu MATSUEINIKKEI / SUSHI - $$ Peruvian Japanese fusion while you and cocktails to match, created by MATRIACASUAL GOURMET - $$ Lima’s most famous and longest enjoy a chic and inviting atmosphere. up-and-coming chef James An informal Peruvian fusion option standing sushi bar has been a favorite Av Santa Cruz 825 2do piso, Miraflores Berckemeyer. The ceiling is adorned of locals and world travelers for more featuring seafood, , pastas and (01) 768-4141 with 4,000 recycled plastic bottles meat dishes. A few vegetarian dishes than 35 years. Although sushi is and recycled materials are used definitely the house specialty and Sunday to Thursday 12.30-11pm; Friday and some yummy desserts round out and Saturdays 12.30pm-12am throughout the decor, a reflection of the menu. other plates are predominantly the artsy vibe here. seafood oriented, there are Japanese- Calle General Mendiburu 823, Miraflores NIKKEI / SUSHI - $$$ Tudela y Varela 162, San Isidro style dishes that feature vegetables, MAIDO (01) 422-2784 (01) 421-5228 chicken, beef or pork. There are also Tuesday to Saturday 1pm-4pm, 8pm- private salons for up to eight people. Monday to Saturday 12pm-11.30pm; 11pm; Sundays 1pm-4pm Sundays 12pm-4pm Atahualpa 195, Miraflores www.matriarestaurante.com www.cosme.com.pe (01) 239-9343 NEW Monday to Saturday, 12.30pm-3.30pm; 7.30pm-11pm MERCADO28GOURMET - $ Stylish venue serving an excellent SAQRACASUAL GOURMET - $$ www.matsueiperu.com.pe variety of sushi, traditional Japanese This food-truck style plaza brings Ideal for those looking for an food, and Peruvian-Japanese fusion together a wide variety of eateries in authentic, well-presented Peruvian in a refined atmosphere. A special of one trendy terrace. Explore a diverse EDONIKKEI / SUSHI - $$ criollo meal that plays with surprising the house is the 15 course fusion representation of modern Peruvian Edo mixes it up with traditional ingredients to delicious effect. Fine tasting menu with paired drinks if gastronomical offerings as you choose Japanese combinations complemented a relaxed atmosphere. Try the desired. Definitely a meal to between 18 permanent vendors. On by a number of Peruvian takes on Bombitas for dessert. remember. Listed at number 1 in the menu is traditionalPeruvian food, sushi. Try the acevichado, crab, prawns Latin America by San Pellegrino in Av. La Paz 646, Miraflores fusion, and international favorites. or any of the dishes with fresh avocado their annual list of the world’s 50 You’ll also find fantastic Peruvian beer, or mango. The chain has other (01) 650-8884 best restaurants. cocktails, wine, and of course, dessert. branches around the city. Monday to Thursday 12pm-11pm; Calle San Martín 399, Miraflores Fridays and Saturdays 12pm-12am. Av Vasco Núñez de Balboa 755, Miraflores Calle Berlin 601, Miraflores (01) 313-5100 www.saqra.pe 981 370 730 (01) 243-2448 Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-4pm, Mondays 8am-11pm; Tuesday to Monday to Saturday, 12.30pm-3pm, Sunday 8am-1am 7pm-10.30pm; Sundays 1.30pm-3.30pm 7pm-11pm; Sundays 12.30pm-5pm www.maido.pe/en/ www.mercado28.pe www.edosushibar.com

38 39 NEW NEW FUJOUCHINESE GOURMET SHI-NÚACHINESE GOURMET OSSOSTEAK / BUTCHER - $$$ CHIFA Shi Nuá is a new high-end restaurant Butcher Renzo Garibaldi has made a (PERUVIAN-CHINESE FUSION) offering gourmet . name for himself with his experimental Via Principal 155 Centro Empresarial approach to preparing aged and cured RESTAURANTEROYALCHIFA - $$ Real, San Isidro meats and his word-of-mouth Delicious Chinese food with a Peruvian (01) 610 2100 have become legendary. Partakers sit flair. Buffet and á la carte options with around a wood block table in his a weekly orchestra on Thursday nights Monday to Saturday 1-4pm, 7.30pm- kitchen to revel in a feast of different 1am; Sundays 1pm-4pm after 8:30pm for those who like to styles of meat cooked to perfection by dance. breakfast on Sunday Garibaldi over an open flame. Cutlery mornings. SALONCAPONCHIFA - $$ Here you’ll find fantastic Chinese at these soirees is forbidden, and the A great choice in the Barrio Chino Av. Prescott 231, San Isidro food that combines both local and food is eaten by hand. You’ll have to (Chinese Quarter) of Lima. It’s open in imported ingredients for superb make a special reservation ahead of (01) 422-9547 / (01) 421-0184 the morning so you can have Dim Sum flavor. Each dish offers an air of time. Listed at number 9 in Latin Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-12am; for breakfast. America by San Pellegrino. Sundays 9am-10.30pm (Dim Sum from sophistication, and the location 9am-12.30pm). makes for a great atmosphere. Jr. Paruro 819, El Cercado, Central Lima Av. Santo Toribio 176, San Isidro www.restauranteroyal.com Av. Calle Dos de Mayo 416, (01) 426-9286 (01) 4697438 Miraflores (Also in Real Club - San Monday to Saturday 9am-11pm; Monday to Wednesday 12.30pm-11pm; Thursdays and Fridays, 12.30pm-12am TITICHIFA - $$ Isidro and Regatas Club - Chorrillos) Sundays 9am-8pm Best chifa restaurant in Lima, (01) 444 4500 / (01) 240 5809 www.saloncapon.com LA CUADRA DE SALVADORSTEAK - $$$ established by Chinese immigrant Monday to Saturday 12.45pm- William Chan Lau in 1959. The 3.30pm, 7pm-11pm; Sundays 7pm- Only the finest Angus beef makes its ambiance is upscale and elegant, as 10pm STEAKHOUSES way to the tables here. Tasty , befits a restaurant in San Isidro. www.fujougourmet.com burgers, and other grilled meats are LACABRERAPERUSTEAK - $$$ served in a beautiful outdoor setting. Av. Javier Prado Este 1212, San Isidro Indoor seating is also available, in a MADAMTUSANCHIFA - $$ If there’s one thing the Argentines do (01) 224-8189 right, it’s grilled meat. La Cabrera Peru restored antique mansion. Madam Tusan is no conventional Tuesday to Saturday 1pm-3pm, 7pm- is a franchise of the restaurant that Calle Centenario 105, Barranco chifa: almost 70 percent of the menu 10pm; Sunday 1pm-3.30pm, 7pm-9pm started out in Argentina and now is an original creation, meaning their 6 (01) 247-8670 www.chifatiti.com brings that same great taste to Lima. restaurants offer a high level of Monday to Saturday,12.30pm-4pm and The best cuts of beef, as well as lamb, innovation. 8pm to11pm; Sundays 12.30pm-5pm WA LOKCHIFA - $$ pork and an extensive wine list await www.lacuadradesalvador.com Av. Santa Cruz 859, Miraflores - (01) you. A good option for Chifa in the Barrio 505 5090 Chino or Miraflores. They offer a very Enrique Palacios 140, Miraflores Strip Mall Paso 28 de Julio – Miraflores CARNALSTEAK - $$$ ample menu. - (01) 505 5090 (01) 447 3799 A high-end restaurant specializing in Jr. Paruro 878, El Cercado, Lima center Monday to Saturday 12pm-11pm; Monday to Thursday 12pm-12am; top quality meat dishes, welcoming (01) 427-2750 Sundays 12pm-10pm Friday and Saturday 12pm-1am; demanding clientele and meat lovers. Sundays 12pm-6pm Av. Angamos Oeste 700, Miraflores www.madamtusan.pe Elías Aguirre 698, Miraflores www.lacabreraperu.com (01) 447-1314 243-3088 / 243-3089 Monday to Saturday 12pm-11pm; Monday to Saturday 12.45pm-4pm, Sundays 12pm-10pm 7.45pm-12am (midnight) www.walok.com.pe www.carnalprime.com

40 41 NEW SYMPOSIVMITALIAN - $$ VEGGIEPIZZAVEGETARIAN - $$ ITALIAN Whole wheat crust and all vegetarian A varied Italian menu with traditional ARMONICAVEGETARIAN / VEGAN - $ and authentic home cooking and toppings, some quite eclectic such as SYMPOSIUMITALIAN - $$ plenty of attention to detail in a fruit and nuts, make this place a A smart, understated atmosphere with contemporary atmosphere. favorite with limeños from all over the classic . Fabulous choice Av. Vasco Núñez de Balboa 751 - city. Reservations are done by email of pastas and risottos. Miraflores ([email protected]) so if you Calle Santa Luisa 122, San Isidro (01) 777-3656 don’t have a confirmation, get there early as it will fill up. (01) 221-3397 Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-11pm; Sundays 12.30pm-10.30pm Jr. Colina 112, Barranco; Santa Cruz Monday to Friday 12.30pm-3.30pm, 825, Miraflores 7.30pm-11.30pm; Saturdays 7pm- Now in a new location, Armonica 11.30pm claims the throne as the trendiest (01) 282-0524 VEGETARIAN / VEGAN vegeterian and vegan friendly eatery Mondays, 8pm-11pm; Tuesday to LA TRATTORIA in Lima. Armonica’s menu is all about Saturday, 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm; Sundays, 1pm-4pm DIMAMBRINOITALIAN - $$ QUINOAVEGETARIAN - $$ prioritizing health and harmony. www.veggiepizza.co Charming bistro in a central but quiet Vegetarian friendly restaurant with a Av. Mariscal La Mar 955, Miraflores location in Miraflores. Good pastas, variety of sandwiches, wraps, salads, (01) 4215498 pizzas, bruschettas, salads and more. soups and more, using natural Daily 8am-11pm BARRA VERDE BAR & RESTAURANT VEGETARIAN / VEGAN - $ In particular, you’ll want to be sure you Peruvian ingredients and nutritious www.armonicacafe.com - MORPHOLOGY leave room for the awesome desserts. recipes. Six locations across the city This impossibly chic organic There is also a location in Larcomar (check website for other locations). restaurant is vegetarian friendly and LAVERDEVEGAN - $$ with an excellent view of the ocean. Av. Pardo y Aliaga 664 (Torre Belcorp), offers fresh ingredients straight from Very good quality vegan restaurant Av. Malecón de la Reserva 610, Int. 102 San Isidro - (01) 325-8758 its own garden. The unique Miraflores with a wide variety of fresh, healthy architecture of the eatery adds to the Av. Vasco Núñez de Balboa 785, menu options. (01) 447-5941 Miraflores (01) 717-661 overall modern atmosphere, and the Calle Gral. Recavarren 315, Miraflores location next door to a butterfly garden Daily 12pm-11pm Monday to Friday 8am-10pm; Saturdays 8am-9pm (01) 469-6040 is an absolute delight. www.latrattoriadimambrino.com www.quinoa.com.pe Mondays 9.30am-9pm; Tuesday to Friday Av. Mariscal La Mar 1332, Miraflores 8.30am-9pm; Saturdays 9am-10pm (01) 399-6892 / 999 128 317 DANICAITALIAN - $$ NANKAVEGETARIAN - $$ Monday to Friday 10.30am-7pm Italian-Peruvian fusion, with tasty RAWCAFÉVEGAN - $ carpaccios, pastas, fish and salads. At this vegetarian friendly restaurant www.morphology.com.pe Vegans will particularly love this Also serves authentic pizzas. you’ll find organic fusion dishes and delicious Miraflores cafe that offers sustainable food options. Nanka VEDAVEGAN - $ Av. Emilio Cavenecia 170, San Isidro beautifully combines high-end decor veggie burgers and other meat (01) 421-1891 / 422 5033 with eco-friendly choices. alternatives, along with fresh bowls This vegan establishment is inspired by Ayurvedic practices. Each dish is gluten- Av. Armendáriz 524, Miraflores and juices. Calle Manuel Bañón 260, San Isidro free, -free, vegan, and prepared (01) 445-8743 / 446-2135 Calle Independencia 587, Miraflores / (01) 467 8417 Av. Mariscal La Mar 1034 according to the Ayurvedic tradition. Monday to Saturday, 12.30pm-12am; Monday to Saturday 12.30pm-11.20pm; (01) 732 7636 Calle Schell 630, Miraflores Sundays, 12.30pm-10pm Sundays 12.30pm-5pm Monday to Saturday, 9am-9pm; (01) 7194174 www.danica.pe www.nanka.pe Sundays, 10am-6pm Daily 8am-10pm; Sundays 8am-5pm www.rawcafe.com.pe www.vedarestaurante.pe

42 43 MERCADO CENTRAL LABONBONNIERECAFE - $ LABODEGAVERDECAFE - $ MARKETS The largest market in Lima, the A traditional café, perfect for A real neighborhood café, La Bodega Mercado Central supplies all your breakfast, desserts, teas and coffee Verde is a great place to stop by for BIOFERIA MIRAFLORES cooking needs. Here, you will find drinks. More substantial choices are delicious , light , teas Every Saturday from 8am to 2:30pm, fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, available as well. 5 different locations. and coffee. Uses high quality, healthy Parque Reducto 2 in Miraflores plays , herbs for cooking and those Calle Burgos 415 San Isidro - ingredients. host to an open air organic market, used in natural healing. While it is an (01) 4212447 Jr. Sucre 335A, Barranco organized by the producers absolutely fascinating place to visit, Malecón de la Reserva 610 - Tda 242, - (01) 247-8804 themselves. The prices are a bit higher bear in mind that even locals will tuck Miraflores - (01) 447 2267 Av. Almte. Miguel Grau 1511, Barranco but the quality of the healthier , their money away someplace safe and Av Vasco Núñez de Balboa 737, - (01) 248 8559 cheeses, fruits, vegetables, snacks leave their cell phones at home. Miraflores - (01) 444 4097 Daily 8am-10pm make it more than worth it. Less pricey Jr. Ucayali 640 at Jr. Ayacucho, Central Daily 9am-11pm than farmers’ markets in North Lima www.labodegaverde.blogspot.com America or Europe. www.restaurantelabonbonniere.com Calle 15 de Enero, Miraflores (behind Parque Reducto) CAFES SANANTONIOCAFE - $ ORIGEN: A casual restaurant and bakery TOSTADORESDECAFECAFE - $ ARABICAESPRESSOBARCAFE - $ ECOMARKET SAN ISIDRO featuring gourmet salads, sandwiches Started the trend of espresso bars in On Sundays from 8.30am to 1pm, this and delicious breakfasts and baked Lima. Set in a narrow terrace, is another market where producers goods. appointed with stylish furnitutre, gather to sell fresh organic products. Av. Vasco Nuñez de Balboa 770, bookshelves full of interesting reading Miraflores Calle Miguel Dasso, San Isidro matter. Arabica has built a direct link to (01) 626-1313 farmers in different coffee growing FERIA ECOLÓGICA DE BARRANCO regions of Peru. The home is Sunday to Thursday 7am-11pm; Fridays and Saturdays 7am-12am Another great market on Sunday from terrific, try the white chocolate tart with maracuya (passion fruit). www.pasteleriasanantonio.com 9am to 3pm with organic and A hidden treasure of a coffee shop. ecolocially friendly producers from Calle Recavarren 269, Miraflores Not only do they showcase coffee CAFE - $ across the country. (01) 715-2153 / 715-2152 TOSTADURIABISETTI directly sourced from farmers in From the owners of Arabica, this is a Calle San Martin cuadra 7, Barranco Monday to Thursday 8am-10pm; different parts of Peru, they have 8 (behind Chipoco stadium) Fridays 8am-11pm; Saturdays 9am- modern and stylish cafe offering different ways of brewing the 11pm; Sundays 2pm-9pm quality coffees and teas. The desserts beverage. Favorites include the MERCADO SURQUILLO NO. 1 are also extremely tasty, and they have aeropress and dripped Ice coffee. Not as big as the Mercado Central and CAFEVERDECAFE - $ tables in a quiet back garden. Try the Coffee Sour or the iced infinitely lower key, the Mercado Excellent quality coffee along with Av. Pedro de Osma 116, Barranco mocha for a real treat. Surquillo No. 1 is a great place to get cakes and other sweets, on a quiet (01) 713-9565 / 713-9566 Av. Bolívar 1199, Pueblo Libre good deals on fruits, vegetables, street corner in Miraflores. Monday to Thursday 8am-10pm; (01) 261-8280 cheeses, meats, spices and specialty 1305 Santa Cruz, Miraflores Fridays 8am-11pm; Saturdays 9am- Tuesday to Friday 8am-10pm; products that are hard to find 11pm; Sundays 2pm-9pm Saturdays and Sundays 10am-10pm elsewhere. (01) 652-7682 www.cafebisetti.com www.origentostadoresdecafe.com Paseo de la Republica , Block 53 Monday to Friday, 7am-9am; Saturdays, 9am-9pm www.cafeverdeperu.com

44 45 ELPANDELACHOLABAKERY - $ PUKU PUKU CAFE DE ORIGENCAFE - $ NEW CARNAVAL Dedicated to baking the finest in Puku Puku brilliantly showcases the BARS, & The only conceptual bar in Lima that the city, Pan de la Chola has rich flavor and depth of Peruvian dazzles visitors with its innovative and established itself not only as an coffee. Offering small batch blends PENAS magical offer. excellent bakery, but a great place to cultivated right here in Peru and served Av. Pardo y Aliaga 662, San Isidro stop for a tasty on by expert baristas. NEW DADABAR (01) 642-9048 bread. There is also great coffee along Calle Narciso de la Colina 297, A trendy bar in bohemian Barranco. Monday to Thursday, 6pm-1am; Fridays, with a selection of teas, juices and Miraflores Av San Martin 154, Barranco desserts. - (01) 242-9146 5pm-3am; Saturday 7pm-3am Tuesday to Saturday 6pm-3am Av. La Mar 918, Miraflores Pardo y Aliaga 695, San Isidro www.carnavalbar.com - (01) 596-4213 www.dada.com.pe Calle Miguel Dasso 113-115, San Isidro NEW Calle Larco 1285, Miraflores MAYO BARCOCKTAIL BAR & BITES Tuesday to Saturday, 8am-10pm; NEW BARRA55BAR Monday to Saturday 7am-9pm Bought to you by Central, this new bar Sundays, 9am-6pm Playing a wide range of music from sticks to the original establishment’s www.pukupuku.pe jazz and funk to house and afro beats, ideals by celebrating ancient Peruvian LAPANADERABAKERY - $ Barra 55 specializes tapas and gin ingredients. You’ll find cocktails that TWINSCAFÉGFGLUTEN FREE - $ cocktails. A tiny establishment tucked away on a are unlike anything you’ve ever Barranco back street, baking delicious For those not keen on gluten this is the 28 De Julio 206, Barranco experienced before. bread, cakes and other baked goods, place to visit. Located in the 986 634 193 Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco charming district of Barranco it has a as well as tasty . It also Tuesday to Thursday 6pm- 12am (01) 241-6721 stocks a selection of Peruvian variety of pizzas, sandwiches, cakes midnight; Friday and Saturday 6pm- and pastas all of which are entirely Monday to Saturday, 9am-12pm and products. 2.30am 2pm-6pm gluten-free. Jirón Alfonso Ugarte 141, Barranco www.mayobar.com Colina 109, Barranco NEW (01) 738-2361 BOTTEGA DASSOBAR 991 597 997 Tuesday to Saturday 9am-8pm; ANTIGUA Sundays and Mondays 10am-4pm Monday to Friday 7.30am-10pm; Saturdays 8am-10pm; Sundays 9am-6pm TABERNA www.lapanadera.pe QUEIROLOTRADITIONAL BODEGA COLONIA&COCAFE - $ Locals hit this tavern after work on a LAFIORENTINAICE - $ Friday for a round of beers or An elegant and authentic cafe and This traditional Italian ice cream place chilcanos. The bar will provide a bottle cultural center with a rustic feel, top can be found in the promenade at the of the house pisco along with ice, notch artisan coffee and delicious Surquillo Market, and they have sliced limes and sugar syrup so that variety of menu options. delicious ice cream including A cozy bar and restaurant with a you can concoct your own drinks. Ham uncommon flavors such as chilli and Av. San Martin 131, Barranco wide selection of champagnes and and cheese sandwiches with chilli and avocado. 987 761 231 wines, an award winning bartender, olives are the popular bar snack. Narciso de la Colina 580, Surquillo Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am-10pm and delicious tapas. Av. San Martín 1090 Pueblo Libre (01)4471338 Calle Miguel Dasso 155, San Isidro (01) 460-0441 Monday to Saturday 11am-7pm; (01) 222-3418 Monday to Wednesday, 9.30am- Sundays 10am-6pm Daily 8am- 12am midnight. 11.30pm; Thursday to Saturday, 9.30am- www.bottegadasso.com 12am; Sundays, 9.30am-4pm www.antiguatabernaqueirolo.com

46 47 ELPISQUERITOBAR SAQRABAR HUARINGASBARBAR VICTORIABARBAR Excellent selection of pisco cocktails Nice bar with a cozy lounge, popular Trendy and stylish bar in the Barranco with a cool atmosphere and great among limeños. Recommended for neighborhood serving cocktails and food. Sit on the terrace on a warm cocktails made with their infused other beverages. Spacious outdoor afternoon and enjoy a frozen hierba piscos like coca leaf chilcanos and seating area. luisa (lemongrass) chilcano – like a passion fruit pisco sours. Tasty light Av. Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco lemonade for adults. fare ideal for sharing. (01) 247-2180 Av. La Paz 646, Miraflores Ovalo Bolognesi 460, Miraflores Tuesday to Saturday 7pm-3am (01) 650-8884 (01) 222-2147 Probably the best and most Monday to Thursday, 12pm-12am; Mondays, 7pm-12am; Tuesday to OLEBARBAR inventive Pisco cocktail bar in town, Fridays and Saturdays, 12pm-1am Thursday, 7pm-1am; Fridays and fronted by renowned bartender (and Saturdays, 7pm-2.30am A traditional Peruvian café and bar www.saqra.pe with excellent drinks as well as a full published Pisco connoisseur) Hans www.huaringas.com Hilburg. Try the chilcanos made with dining menu. fresh ginger. PISCOBARBAR Calle Pancho Fierro 109, San Isidro HOTELBRESTOBARBAR Av. San Martin 1340, Pueblo Libre Excellent pisco cocktails, a hand (01) 422-6362 selected variety of sipping piscos, and It’s worth popping in for a drink at this (01) 462-7471 a small but exquisite menu make this a hotel’s bar just to get a glimpse of the Monday to Friday 12pm-2am; Saturday 12pm-4am Monday to Saturday, 7pm-1am great place to stop off and not just gorgeously restored mansion. If you www.elpisquerito.com sample but learn about Peru’s national ever wished you could have had a liquor. cocktail with the Great Gatsby, the vibe COUNTRY CLUB LIMA LAGLORIABAR Av. Petit Thouars 5390, Miraflores here will get you as close as possible. BARINGLÉSBAR A Lima classic featuring excellent (01) 241-1944 Sáenz Peña 204, Barranco This English-style pub features pisco sours. (01) 206-0800 enticing light fare and expertly mixed Tuesday to Saturday, 12pm-4pm, drinks. Calle Atahualpa 201, Miraflores 6.30pm-1.30am; Sundays, 12pm-4pm Daily. Los Eucaliptos 590, San Isidro (01) 446-6504 www.piscobar.pe www.hotelb.pe/dining-and-bar Monday to Saturday During lunch from (01) 611-9000 1pm, During dinner from 8pm EL BOLIVARCITOTRADITIONAL BODEGA SIBARISRESTOBAR Daily 12pm-1am www.lagloriarestaurant.com The bustling bar of the famous Hotel A sleek bar one block from the main www.hotelcountry.com/dinning/english-bar/ Bolivar on San Martin Square. The square in Barranco, there are cocktails LAROSANAUTICABAR house cocktail - a double Pisco sour and craft beers to cater for all tastes AYAHUASCABAR Enjoy drinks overlooking the ocean at called “La Catedral del Pisco” - packs along with tasty bar food. Set in a refurbished mansion, this this bar on a pier off the Malecón de la quite a punch, while all the other Jr. 28 de Julio 206-B, Barranco stylish and atmospheric bar serves an favorites can be found on the menu. Reserva. (01) 247-0263 extensive range of delicious pisco You might not want to plan to eat here, Espigon 4 Circuito de Playas, Miraflores sours and other cocktails. but the accompanying platters are Tuesday to Friday 9am-11.30pm, (01) 445-0149 Saturday 10am-12am midnight; Sunday Av. Prolongación San Martín 130, standard and ample fare. 10am-4pm Barranco Daily 12pm-12am Jiron de la Union Nro. 926, Lima www.sibarisperu.com 981-044-745 www.larosanautica.com (01) 427-2788 Monday to Saturday, 8pm-3am Sunday to Friday 7am-9pm; Saturdays www.ayahuascarestobar.com 7am- 2pm www.elbolivarcitoperu.com

48 49 JUANITO BARRANCO BEER COMPANYBREWPUB DEBARRANCOTRADITIONAL BODEGA A bar with onsite brewery, and with an This iconic bodega-style bar is known unmissable wooden exterior up the for its history, having been in the road from Barranco’s main square, neighborhood since 1937. A local there are big glass panels so that you favorite, this no-frills spot serves can see the brewing tanks while sitting pitchers of Peruvian beer and simple at the bar. The different styles of beer sandwiches. Very casual, cash only. are good, accompanied by pizzas, Av. Almirante Miguel Grau 270, sausage sandwiches or other bar Barranco snacks. Modern and swish appointments and very popular with Monday to Saturday 11am-2.30am; Sunday 12pm-12am the 18-24 year old crowd. Av. Almte. Miguel Grau, Barranco WICK’SBREWPUB 247-6211 English-style brewpub with craft ales Sunday to Thursday, 12pm-12am; Chillies for made on site and a selection of bottled Fridays and Saturdays, 12pm-3am sale at the craft beers from Peru and abroad. Live www.barrancobeer.com market in Lima music and pub fare. Av. Pedro de Osma 201a, Barranco LACANDELARIAPEÑA (01) 247-4507 Shows on Friday and Saturday nights Wednesdays and Thursdays, 4pm-1am; at 10:30pm cater for tourists and Fridays and Saturdays, 3pm-2am; locals alike. Tickets can be purchased Sundays 1pm-11pm. (Kitchen not open as late as bar except for Fri and Sat). through Teleticket (Wong/Metro) or at the door. Food and drinks are a la www.brewpubwicks.com carte. Av. Bolognesi 292, Barranco LADAMAJUANAPEÑA (01) 247-1314 One of the most popular peñas with tourists, La Dama Juana has 90 www.lacalendariaperu.com minute shows beginning at 8:30pm daily, with the dinner buffet beginning NEW GARITO BISTRO TAPAS & BAR at 7:30pm. Call for reservations or Two floors of fantastic food and drinks email [email protected]. in one of the most prime areas of Av. República de Panama 230, Barranco Barranco. You’ll find live presentations 248-7547 and music, and a view of the city streets from the terrace. www.ladamajuana.com.pe Av. 28 de Julio 302, Barranco Tuesdays and Wednesdays 1pm-11pm; Thursday to Saturday 4pm-2am 983 280 244 / (01) 2473604

50 51 CUSCO AND THE HIGHLANDS

Picnic on the Huchuy Qosqo trek near the Sacred Valley

52 53 or cows, only two large domesticated includes everything from beef to beans include puka picante, a pork and potato Cusco & The Highlands animals -- the llama and alpaca. Much and chuño (a type of freeze-dried dish found in Ayacucho, and of this meat, meanwhile, was reserved potato). Chairo is particularly popular in cuchicanca, a style of roast pork History permeates the cuisine of the for the nobility or for marching soldiers. Cusco, Puno and Arequipa. cooked in vinegar, garlic and aji mirasol Peruvian highlands, a region with a The latter were supplied with dried and Perhaps the most emblematic dish of (a type of sun-dried pepper). The city of greater variety of ingredients and salted llama meat called ch’arki, the the central highlands is pachamanca, a Arequipa also has distinct variations of dishes than any other part of Peru. etymological origin of the modern word mix of meat, vegetables and other dishes found in the highlands, as well The Peruvian nation’s indigenous “jerky.” Andean ingredients cooked in an as its own unique styles (see chapter heritage exists most strongly in the Meat is far more common in the earthen oven. The preparation and on “Arequipa and the South Coast”). chilly heights of the Andean highlands, modern highland diet, but the sheer cooking of a traditional pachamanca Chicha de jora is a corn beer with from Cusco, the former Inca capital, to diversity of food on offer is largely due often involves entire families or even ceremonial origins dating back Huánuco and Cajamarca in the north, to the Inca’s agrarian prowess. Peru’s communities. Cities famous for their thousands of years. It is traditionally and to Puno, Lake Titicaca and wealth of potato varieties is well pachamancas include Huánuco, prepared by firstly germinating choclo Arequipa in the south. Here you’ll find known, but other crops also play a Huancayo and Ayacucho. Another (maize) before extracting the malt traditional recipes and cooking major role. The Andean kitchen iconic Andean dish is cuy, or guinea , boiling the wort and fermenting methods dating back to pre-Columbian includes a plethora of tubers, roots, pig. And while some foreign travelers for several days in a large earthenware times, many of which remain largely grains, beans and peppers, including shy away from cuy, the high protein, container called a chomba. The drink is unchanged despite centuries of choclo (Peruvian corn), oca, olluco, aji low fat, low cholesterol rodent is hugely popular in the southern Peruvian colonialism and repeated waves of Old amarillo, quinoa and maca, to name popular in highland Peru, where it is Andes, and a number of households World influences. just a few. baked or grilled and served whole. make their own chicha de jora to sell. The Inca themselves were master Warming soups are ever-present in the Alpaca steaks, meanwhile, provide an These unlicensed establishments, agriculturists, successfully adopting high altitudes. There are traditional interesting and healthier alternative to known as chicherias, are generally and cultivating a wide range of food -based soups like kapchi and lawa, beef. identified by a pole adorned with a red crops that were vital to their survival wheat soups like llunca cashqui, and Some Andean main courses are flag, red flowers, ribbons or even a red and expansion. The Inca had no sheep thick meat stews such as chairo, which characteristic of certain regions. These plastic bag.

Quinoa cultivation at Andahuaylillas

54 55 GASTRONOMIC SENSORY JOURNEY Journey to the land of chocolate at the THROUGH PERU Chocolate Museum in Cusco. The museum’s expert chocolatiers will teach you all about the origin of the cocoa plant, its spread through the Americas and across the world. You can also learn about the current production process used to make chocolate treats in Cusco and get your hands a little messy while you mold your very own chocolates. An ideal way for families (or chocolate-loving grownups) to spend a couple of hours There’s no better way to learn about a after lunch. country’s cuisine than by cooking with an expert chef! Held at a specially ALFRESCO established its own organic farm in the designed cooking demo center right Culinary Experiences midst of Inca terracing, offering off the main plaza of Cusco, this class breathtaking views towards the snow- starts out with an interactive lesson in Cusco capped peaks of mount Veronica and about Peruvian products and a fresh the Ollantaytambo ruins. Not only can produce tasting. You’ll then head to the FROM THE EARTH TO YOUR PLATE - you enjoy a guided tour of the farm, kitchen to get firsthand experience FARM VISIT AND 'PACHAMANCA' which grows an assortment of cooking two traditional Peruvian vegetables such as potatoes, corn and dishes - causa and lomo saltado - with Visiting a farm that adopts organic and quinoa to be used in the hotel the chance to partake in a pisco sustainable practices is not only a restaurant, you can also sample the tasting and cocktail lesson in between. great way of learning about the local produce, either with a Private classes are held in the diversity of the abundant Sacred Pachamanca - a traditional meal of morning, while you can join a group in This specially organized picnic takes Valley, but eating a meal partially meats, potatoes and vegetables the afternoon. All of the dishes can be gourmet dining to the great outdoors sourced from that very farm’s produce cooked in an earthen oven with wood- prepared vegetarian or vegan and can and is a wonderful way to have lunch is a truly rewarding (and delicious) way fired stones - or a three course menu accommodate any dietary restrictions. in between visiting archeaological of connecting to this beautiful made with organic ingredients, the sites. The picnic can be held in a destination. The charming El Albergue majority of which are sourced from the “CHOCO LOCO” © - INTERACTIVE number of places, including at de Ollantaytambo hotel has farm or from other local producers. CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP Sacsayhuaman near Cusco, or at either Pisaq or Moray archeological sites in the Sacred Valley, where you can also have a guided visit. The lunch is prepared by the highly- regarded and experienced Cicciolina restaurant in Cusco. Staff travel in advance to the site to prepare a private table, sparkling dinnerware, and delectable meal before greeting you upon arrival.

56 57 THE CHEF’S FOOD TOUR URBAN EATS CUSCO variety of food and cooking styles. BARBEQUE WITH A VIEW From piles of chicharron to fried meat to buckets of artisanal ice cream, you’ll From atop an Inca wall, enjoy get to experience a little bit of panoramic views of Cusco during a everything. The exact locations, order, private BBQ with your own dedicated and number of stops may vary and can cook. Sample a variety of local meats be adapted to dietary requirements. – including alpaca – accompanied by Your adventure will conclude at fresh, leafy salads from the on-site Pachapapa, a charming restaurant vegetable garden for hearty home with an outdoor courtyard in the cooking at its best. Afer all, food historic neighborhood of San Blas. always tastes better with a view. On this food-focused morning, you’ll Pachapapa serves up hearty typical be led on foot by one of the city’s top Explore the streets of Cusco with an Peruvian dishes and, using their wood- professional chefs to learn more about eye toward food. Visit a market and a fired oven, the most famous Cusco PRIVATE GALA DINNER IN SAN Peruvian food. You’ll begin in the variety of local eateries for insight into specialty of all: cuy (guinea pig). FRANCISCO CONVENT neighborhood of San Blas at Peruvian cooking, sampling local Pantastico, a local bakery that uses flavors at each stop. Your guide will MAKE YOUR OWN PISCO SOUR traditional Andean grains like quinoa, meet you at your hotel and you’ll begin kiwicha, and maca to create delicious the morning at buzzing San Pedro wholesome loaves. At San Blas Market. At one block long and three Market, you’ll see local ingredients on blocks wide, Cusco’s main market is display alongside a multitude of exotic bursting with energy and variety. Your fruits and vegetables. The chef will senses will be awakened by its array of guide you to his favorite vendors to vibrant fruits, aromas, and vendors showcase notable ingredients, broadcasting their prices and pointing out where they come from products. Your guide will lead you and what they’re used for. Then, head through the maze of produce, where Enjoy an exclusive and spectacular to a popular juice stall to sample new you can pause to taste fresh squeezed dinner in the Capitular Room of the fruits while tucking into a local juices using seasonal exotic fruits like Learn how to make Peru’s national historic San Francisco convent. Dating sandwich from the stall next door. guanábana or chirimoya. You can drink at Cusco’s popular bar, Museo from the 16th and 17th centuries, the Next, you’ll visit an ice cream shop to expect to see some of the almost del Pisco, in a tutorial led by an affable convent is more elaborately decorated enjoy a sweet taste of Peruvian 4,000 varieties of potatoes that grow in barman. The key ingredients are Pisco, than most of Cusco’s churches, flavors. Peru, alongside stalls offering must- lime, sugar syrup, egg, and a whole of making it a one-of-a-kind venue for a Your chef will then take you to sees like purple corn, herbal remedies, shaking! Get behind the bar and whip special and memorable occasion. The Pachapapa restaurant, where you’ll and nutritious Andean like up your own unique creation using one convent boasts a large collection of have the opportunity to learn to make kiwicha and quinoa. of the house-made infusions like as colonial religious and a your own Pisco Sours at the bar. Make passion fruit, coca leaf, chili, superb cedar wood choir. One of the your way out to the courtyard patio for After browsing the market, you can strawberry, purple corn, Andean mint, paintings, depicting the family tree of a private cooking lesson. Under expert pause for a traditional Peruvian coffee and many more. The bar usually offers the order’s founder, St. Francis de guidance, you’ll prepare trout ceviche or try local pastries. You may also live music later on in the evenings, so Assisi, measures 9 by 12 meters (30 to step by step before sitting down to want to head to a food stall famous for it’s a great place to carry on the 40 feet) and is claimed to be the enjoy your creation. Your tour ends at its sweet and savory - stuffed sampling. Pay the bar directly for your largest in . His Pachapapa in San Blas. From there, cornmeal cooked in a corn husk or mini-class, which is listed on their life is celebrated in the paintings hung you can make your way back to your banana leaf. As you visit a variety of menu. around the colonial cloister, which is hotel or continue exploring. handpicked tour stops, you’ll observe a well worth exploring. Also of interest

58 59 are the church’s two crypts, which sit coffee as you learn about various adventurers. You will enjoy stunning level, standard brewing techniques partially above ground – human bones preparation methods and how to attain 300-degree views of the Sacred Valley have to be recalibrated and carefully are sensitively arranged to remind the richest flavor. while you dine. Lunch is an impressive thought out. The difficulties don’t end visitors of the transitory nature of life. four-course affair served with fruit there: getting new equipment to the LUNCH IN THE SKY juice and wine. You’ll then return to the plant’s remote location can be difficult PISCO TASTING EN MUSEO DEL PISCO base point, where you’ll be driven back as well. Despite the hardships, there is to your hotel or continue on to your one key advantage that this location Gain insight into Peru’s national spirit next destination. has over others: access to the cleanest on this delightful introductory tasting and freshest water, sourced directly session. The experience takes you on PERUVIAN CRAFT BEER IN THE from the surrounding glaciers in the a sensory voyage from aroma to SACRED VALLEY valley. palate at Cusco’s popular bar, Museo del Pisco. You’ll learn about the history You’ll enjoy a private tour of the and production of the grape-based brewhouse and production area. spirit and sample four different piscos Afterwards, sit down to enjoy a as half ounce pours. The bar usually sampling of their best brews and offers live music later on in the Lunch at Skylodge is more than a analyze each sample with a brewing evenings, so it’s a great place to carry meal: it’s an unforgettable experience. expert. on the sampling. Pay the bar directly You’ll adventure your way up 400 for the sampling experience, which is meters above the Sacred Valley of the listed on their menu. Incas and dine with incredible views. Located an hour from the city of CUSCO COFFEE Cusco, this is a great choice for Craft beer has taken the world by adrenaline junkies and foodies, storm, but most people would be Founded by local coffee growers, the offering an authentic Peruvian surprized to hear Peru has a craft Museo del Café offers insight into the gastronomy experience combined with brewing scene of its own. Since Peru history of this globally popular the thrill of making your way up to the is home to a diverse range of Andean beverage. Led by a coffee-loving dining capsule. grains and fruits, there are no bounds expert, the 2-hour ‘‘’Bean to Barista’’ when it comes to creativity and workshop offers a hands-on To begin your day of adventure, you’ll brewing. You’ll even find organic and opportunity to discover the entire be driven to the base point. After a health-conscious options. Peruvian coffee-making process. Your safety briefing and equipment experience will guide you from the demonstration, you’ll either climb up On this experience, you’ll visit the most agricultural plantations in the nearby 400 meters via ferrata or hike an remote brewery in Peru: the Cerveceria Andean foothills, to local cafés in intrepid trail with a series of ziplines. in the Sacred Valley. The Sacred Valley Cusco, to distribution to hip coffee Both are challenging, exhilarating, and Beer Company was the first real shops around the world. During the guaranteed to work up an appetite. (If artisan brewery to kick off in the educational journey through the you have a fear of heights, you might region, and it has quickly become a wonderful world of coffee, you’ll learn want to sit this one out! market leader. The brewery’s creative more about the important use of ingredients and relentless environmental factors influencing A group lunch is served in a passion is a clear testament to its coffee production, explore roasting transparent luxury capsule that hangs ongoing successes. techniques, and get to try your hand at from the top of a mountain in the latte art. Finish your experience by Sacred Valley, where you can share a The brewery is set in a valley at almost tasting a cup or two of Cusco’s finest wonderful meal with fellow 2900m. Because it is so far from sea

60 61 INKAGRILLPERUVIAN - $$ LAFERIAPERUVIAN - $$ LIMOFINE DINING - $$ Listings - Cusco Located right on the main square An atmospheric, traditional cusqueño (Plaza de Armas), Inka Grill is not only restaurant serving Andean fare. The known for its delicious Peruvian food clay oven roasts suckling pork and cuy, FINE DINING but for being one of the places to go to guinea pig, and the location has a enjoy traditional Peruvian music and great view of Plaza de Armas. MAPCAFEFINE DINING - $$$ dancing with your meals. A bit noisy if Portal de Panes 123, 2nd Floor - Plaza Contemporary Andean cuisine in the you’re after a chat. de Armas Tel. Museum of PreColumbian Art (MAP). Portal de Panes 115 (084) 286-198 A Cusco favorite, with an elegant (084) 262-992 courtyard setting. Dinner is prix-fixe Daily 12-11pm only, with a choice among appetizers, Daily 11am-11pm www.cuscodining.com One of the best in town, with a mains and desserts. Best for dinner. www.cuscorestaurants.com broad menu but a specialty in fish Plazoleta Nazarenas 231 BACOFOOD&WINEBISTRO - $$$ and, in particular, sushi. (084) 242-476 LESOLEILFINE DINING - $$$ A low-key atmosphere and vaulted Reservations are essential, ceilings, along with great food and fine Daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm One of the best restaurants in town especially for snagging one of the just happens to be French. Not only is wine make this a perfect place for a tables that allows a view of the www.cuscorestaurants.com the food authentically French and casual night out without sacrificing main square. Great for lunch or fabulous, so are all the wines which quality. This is the sister restaurant to dinner; also one of the best spots in CICCIOLINAFINE DINING - $$$ are available by the glass in the wine Cicciolina. town for pisco drinks. Both lunch bar. Dine a la carte or choose a tasting Calle Ruinas 465 and dinner are recommended. menu of either 5 or 7 courses. (084) 242-808 Portal de Carnes 236, 2nd Fl., Plaza de Armas Calle San Agustin 275 Daily 3.30pm-10.30pm (084) 240-668 (084) 240-543 www.cicciolinacuzco.com/baco.html Daily 12.30pm-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Daily 11.30am-11pm www.restaurantelesoleilcusco.com LA DIVINA www.cuscorestaurants.com COMEDIAFINE DINING - $$$ Probably the best overall dining PACHAPAPAPERUVIAN - $$ A creation of chef Diego Rey. experience in Cusco. Features KIONCHIFA - $$ Located right on San Blas Square, this Mediterranean-style cuisine with delicious restaurant offers excellent local food Andean ingredients. Best for dinner. An excellent option for Chinese- with an Andean flair; tapas available and oven-baked pizzas. Casual setting Peruvian fusion, or Chifa, in Cusco. only in the bar area. Great place to Calle Pumacurco 408 with great outdoors in a leafy Calle Triunfo 370, 2nd floor go if a nice bottle of wine with your (084) 437-640 courtyard. Best for . Also good meal is a must. The atmosphere is (084) 431-862 place to try cuy (guinea pig), which Daily 12.30-3pm, 6-11pm upscale and romantic. Reservations Daily 11.30pm-11pm must be reserved with 24 hours’ www.restaurantcusco.com are essential. Best for dinner. notice. Best for lunches. www.cuscorestaurants.com Calle Triunfo N 393, 2nd floor Plazoleta San Blas 120 (084) 239-510 (084) 241-318 Daily 8am-11am, 12pm-3pm; 6pm- 10pm Daily 11.30am-11pm www.cicciolinacuzco.com www.cuscorestaurants.com

62 63 EL TUPAY GREENS LACANTINAPIZZA - $$ (MONASTERIO)FINE DINING - $$$ CASUAL DINING ORGANICPERUVIAN FUSION - $$ The best pizza in Cusco. Wafer thin Excellent cuisine in one of the finest Particularly known for its use of local crust in the Italian style, with the and oldest of Cusco’s 5-star hotels, the organic ingredients. Food is delicious freshest ingredients. The locale is Hotel Monasterio. Great opportunity to MARCELO and ranges from tasty salads to alpaca small, as is the oven, with room to take in the opulent atmosphere if BATATA PERUVIAN FUSION - $$ steaks and everything in between. Also cook only one pizza at a time. This is a you’re not staying at the hotel. The offers organic beer and wine. place to linger over the delicous Italian restaurant features opera singers on Santa Catalina Angosta 135, 2nd Fl. wines as you wait and enjoy the Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. (084) 254-753 ambiance. Also on offer are , Calle Palacios 136, Plazoleta Daily 8am-11pm meat and cheese plates, and tiramisu. Nazarenas Finish off with a homemade www.cuscorestaurants.com limoncello. (084) 604-000 Saphy 554 Daily 6pm-10.30pm UCHUSTEAKHOUSE - $$ (084) 242-075 www.belmond.com Many of the city’s more upscale If you want to try alpaca, this is one of Daily 6pm-11pm restaurants offer Peruvian fusion, the best choices. Uchu specializes in ILLARIY RESTAURANT but this one happens to be one of beef and alpaca steaks, as well as (HOTEL MONASTERIO)FINE DINING - $$$ the best. Especially known for its seafood and chicken, brought to your LABODEGA138PIZZA - $ table with a heated volcanic stone so Excellent cuisine. Available for groups alpaca steaks. Also a great place for If you want more than just a tasty you can cook it to your taste. Upscale or private events. pisco cocktails. Atmosphere is pizza, you can head to La Bodega friendly but upscale and it’s a good and relaxed atmosphere. where they also offer pastas, soups Plazoleta Nazarenas 337 choice for a romantic dinner Calle Palacio 135 and salads. A nice selection of wines (084) 604-000 especially with the rooftop terrace (084) 246-598 / 984-115-587 and craft beers make this place a bit Daily 5am-6pm. Book in advance. which offers a great place for a pre- more upscale. Daily 12.30pm-11pm dinner drink. Calle Herrajes 138, Cusco. - (084) CHICHA Calle Palacio 121, 2nd floor www.cuscodining.com 260272 / Delivery: 084-386238 BYGASTONACURIOCUZQUEÑO - $$ (084) 222-424 Daily 11am-10.30pm PAPACHOSBURGERS - $ Chicha is regional food at its finest: Daily 12.30pm-11pm www.labodega138.com These are burgers as Peru’s most inputs, customs, and local culture www.cuscodining.com tapping into the thousand-year-old famous chef, Gaston Acurio, has KORMA envisioned them. There are some 16 culinary wisdom of Cusco. Expect to INCANTOITALIAN - $$ SUTRAINTERNATIONAL/INDIAN - $ find exquisite trout, guinea pig, alpaca, different options on the menu; all can Delicious Italian food with a Peruvian The best place for curry in Cusco, and other meats from the Andes. be made vegetarian as well. There are twist in a contemporary setting. several other choices so it’s safe to go Korma Sutra is owned and run by a Plaza Regocijo 261, Cusco Recommended for both lunch and here if not everyone in the group Brit. Delicious appetizers and mains at (084) 240-520 / (084) 240-717 dinner. fancies a burger. Atmosphere is different levels of spicyness. Great / 998-191-613 Santa Catalina Angosta 135, 2nd Fl. casual, much like a sports bar. place to try a more unique style of alpaca. Daily 12pm-10.30pm (084) 254-753 Portal de Belen 115, 2nd fl. Teatro 382, 2nd floor www.chicha.com.pe Daily 11.30am-11pm (084) 245-359 (084) 233-023 www.cuscorestaurants.com Daily 12pm-12am www.papachos.com Oepn Monday to Saturday 1pm-10pm

64 65 JUSTINAPIZZA - $ FALLENANGELFINE DINING - $$$ MR.SOUP COMFORT FOOD - $ NEW One of the better pizzerias in town and, Worth stopping by for a drink just to A great option for Cusco comfort food. unlike many places, this is all they take in the eclectic decor, it’s worth CALLE Mr. Soup serves local and international serve up. Beverages include wine, beer, staying for the delicious food. DELMEDIOPERUVIAN - $$$ soups in a cozy setting just a block water or soft drinks. Particularly known for the quality of from the Plaza de Armas. Serving Calle Palacio 110 the steaks, there are also many other sizes are very generous, so it’s easy to meat, poultry, fish and vegetarian share! (084) 255-475 dishes to enjoy. Calle Garcilaso 210, Cusco Monday to Saturday 6pm-11pm Plazoleta Nazarenas 221 (084) 386073 (084) 258-184 TACOMANIAINTERNATIONAL/MEXICAN - $ Daily 12pm-9.30pm Monday to Saturday 11am-11pm; You’ll see lots of restaurants hawking Sundays 3pm-11pm Mexican food, but this place actually A new addition to Cusco MORENA stands up to the test. Nachos, , www.fallenangelincusco.com/wordpress/ Restaurants’ group. This restaurant PERUVIANKITCHENPERUVIAN - $ , and bar offers an authentic take on Indulge in a culinary journey through are filling, yummy and reasonably BOJOSAN JAPANESE - $ Peruvian gastronomy by Peru at Morena. This modern and priced. You probably wouldn’t have thought of reinterpreting classic dishes. The bright restaurant nestled in the heart great view of the Plaza makes for a Teatro 394 Cusco as the place for authentic of the ancient city of Cusco offers real plus. With a cool atmosphere (084) 132-032 Japanese udon but now it is. The delicious flavors of Peru, featuring restaurant offers only udon (Japanese and creative cocktails, it’s a must cuisine from the coast to the Amazon Oepn Monday to Saturday 1pm-10pm soup) but it’s a delicious quick visit! to the Andes. Calle del Medio 113, Plaza de Armas, bite as you’re taking a quick break Calle Plateros 348, Cusco LABOHEMEINTERNATIONAL/FRENCH - $ from touring. Also offers Japanese Cusco Daily 12pm-10pm Creperie with a wide range of savory tea, beer and . (084) 237946 and sweet options. Ambiance is very Calle San Agustin 275 Daily 11.30am-11pm (084) 437832 casual and relaxed. It’s also a bit on (084) 246-502 www.cuscorestaurants.com www.morenaperuviankitchen.com the small size so early is better. Daily 12.30pm-10pm Recommended for a quick bite but not GRANJA HEIDI for a fancy dinner. A staple on the Cusco scene for years, Carmen Alto 260 (084) 235-684 GREENPOINTVEGAN - $ the name of this second-floor Tuesday to Sunday 8am-10pm This extremely casual, laid-back place is one of the best spots in towns for restaurant translates to almost exactly www.labohemecusco.com vegans, and one of the few where you what it is: food from Heidi's farm. This can safely eat everything on the menu. cozy Alpine-inspired restaurant serves KINTARO INTERNATIONAL/JAPANESE - $ homemade style meals and typical Calle Carmen Bajo 235 Andean food with tasty vegetarian Authentic Japanese soups, teriyaki, (084) 431-086 options. , sushi and more in a lovely ambiance. and sake Daily 8am-10pm Cuesta de San Blas 525, Cusco complete the experience. www.greenpointcusco.com (084) 238383 Calle Plateros 334, 2nd Fl. Monday to Saturday 11.30am-9.30pm (084) 260-638 www.granjaheidicusco.com Monday to Sunday 8am-10pm www.kintarocuzco.com

66 67 DELIMONASTERIOBAKERY - $$ LAVALERIANACAFE - $ YAJUU JUICE BAR - $ CAFES AND BAKERIES A good place for a quick bite such as a A lovely café located at Plazoleta de When you walk into Yajúú, the first sandwich to go, made with their Espinar with a contemporary French thing you’ll see are rows upon rows of JACK’SCAFECAFE - $ homemade bread. Yummy pastries style. Expect to find all kinds of incredible fruit - all of which are used Think comfort food: hearty breakfasts and coffee drinks make this a great fantastic flavors fresh from the oven! in their amazing juices. (You can even (the best in town), soups, sandwiches pick-me-up after touring around. The staff is very familiar with each ask for medicinal options if you like!) and salads as well as some tasty main Calle Palacio 135 menu offering and are happy to make From the second floor, you’ll have a dishes. This is the place to come when recommendations. There are also fantastic view of the Plaza de Armas in (084) 604-000 you want something that reminds you great vegetarian and vegan options Cusco. of home. Monday to Friday 8am-9pm; Saturdays available. 9am-9pm; Sundays 10am-6pm Plaza de armas Portal Confituria 249, Calle Choquechaca 509 Av. Del Sol 576, Plazoleta Espinar Cusco. www.belmond.com (084) 254-606 - (084) 506941 (84) 221836 Calle Espinar 115 - (084) 403922 Daily 7.30am-11.30pm CICCIOLINABAKERY - $ Daily 7am-10pm; Sundays 8am-9pm LARABONABAKERY - $ www.jackscafecusco.com Absolutely the best croissants in town, Ideal for a short break from exploring especially the ones filled with www.lavaleriana.pe the city. La Rabona serves great L’ATELIERCAFÉCONCEPTCAFE - $ chocolate. Go early in the morning as coffee, delicious smoothies, and they will sell out. Plus, the smell of the MUSEODELCAFÉCAFE - $ One of the best places to sneak off to desserts in a very cool setting. It offers fresh baked breads and pastries is A must for all coffee lovers. This for a coffee or tea. Sit on one of the up great energy for a great value. divine. museum will introduce you to the two small balconies in colonial San Bright and colorful smoothies etc Blas and watch the world go by. Calle Triunfo N 393, 1st floor wonderful world of coffee by combining objective information on Calle Herrajes 146, Cusco Atoqsaycuchi 605A (084) 239-510 the processes of planting, harvesting, (084) 241305 (084) 248-333 www.cicciolinacuzco.com and selection with fascinating stories Daily 8am-8pm; On Sundays 10am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am-7pm of Peruvian coffee pioneers. ELBUENPASTORBAKERY - $ Admission to the museum is free. LABONDIETCAFE - $ A classic San Blas institution with Calle Espaderos 136, 2nd floor, Cusco For a quick time out, a cup of coffee, sweet breads and empanadas. (084) 263264 and some of the best cakes in Cusco, Cuesta San Blas 579 Daily 8.30am-11pm La Bondiet is the place to go. Also Monday to Saturday 7am-8.30pm offers light fare such as sandwiches. www.museodelcafecusco.com Heladeros 118 PLAZACAFECAFE - $ CAFÉAYLLUCAFE - $ (084) 246-823 The Plaza Cafe offers the best As the oldest café in Cusco, Café Ayllu Daily 7am-11.30pm panoramic view of the Plaza de is all about tradition. The location has Armas. You’ll find delicious salads, changed since its original opening, but JUANITOSCAFE - $ soups and main dishes, plus a very the delightfully old fashioned feeling Best sandwiches and french fries in recommendable variety of nicely remains. presented desserts. Cusco. Calle Márquez 263, Cusco. Portal, Mantas 114, Cusco Calle 7 Angelitos 638 (084) 232357 (084) 225959 (084) 255-343 Daily 6am-10.30pm; Sundays 6am-1pm Monday to Saturday 11am-10pm Daily 6am-9.45pm

68 69 ROOFTOPKITCHENCOOKING QUINTAS CLASSES Learn about Peruvian food, visit San BARS IN CUSCO (Typical Cusco food) Pedro market, learn to cook some CHOCOMUSEOCHOCOLATE MAKING delicious fusion dishes, all from this QUINTAEULALIAQUINTA - $$ Learn about how chocolate is made gorgeous 11th floor rooftop kitchen. MUSEODELPISCOPISCO BAR - $$ This Cusco establishment has been in and take part in a workshop where you Reservations are essential but can be business for more than 50 years. The make your own sweets. This is a great made same day. courtyard patio is a great place to sit in activity for families to do together. The Pasaje Retiro 426 A, 11th Fl, Wanchaq the sunshine. Quinta Eulalia serves basic 2 hour workshop is held at 9 and (971) 009-559 favorites like roast lamb, alpaca, and 11 am and at 2 and 4pm. Reservations rocotto relleno. It’s a great place to try essential. Daily 11am or 4pm cuy (guinea pig) and other traditional Calle Garcilaso 210, 2nd Fl www.rooftopkitchenperu.com Peruvian meals. (084) 244-765 Choqechaka 384, Cusco FACESOFCUSCOVARIOUS CLASSES Daily 9am-7pm (084) 234495 Learn to make your own chocolate www.chocomuseo.com Tuesday to Sunday, 12.30pm-4pm treats using indigenous ingredients. Or learn to make the perfect cocktail. Or If you want to learn more about CUSCOCOOKINGCLASSCOOKING Peru’s national liquor, pisco, this is QUINTA how about a family-style dinner with Get an intro to Peruvian food, visit a new friends from Peru and around the one of the best places to go. Not PEÑADEDONLUISQUINTA - $$ local market, learn to make some world? Faces of Cusco is constantly only does the bar stock a huge For more than 40 years, this Cusco typical dishes as well as the national coming up with new and fun variety of labels, unlike most places, establishment has been serving up favorite drink, the pisco sour. This is a experiences to appreciate food, drinks a pisco tasting is available at any some of the most popular traditional hands-on cooking class, not just a and culture. time without prior reservation. Lots of pisco cocktails to sample and the dishes of the region. demonstration. At the end, you get to 216 Portal de Carnes, 2nd Floor eat what you’ve made. Reservations kitchen offers several different Av. Regional 412, Cusco (084) 225-745 are essential. tapas to keep your appetite sated. (084) 22-2073 y (084) 984-743852 www.facesofcusco.com Also holds pisco cocktail making Calle Palacio 135 classes. MARKETS Daily 2pm Santa Catalina Ancha 398 www.cuzcodining.com/cooking-classes.htm (084) 262-709 SANPEDROMARKET Daily 11am-1am MARCELO BATATAPISCO TASTING The best place in Cusco to go to www.museodelpisco.org/ browse the fresh fruits and vegetables, Although the Museo del Pisco maybe get a fresh made juice, and look at the better known for it’s pisco tasting, this piles of cheese, breads and, not the restaurant is a fabulous place to do it last nor the least, pig heads. Mind your as well. One of their specialities is wallets just to be safe and be pisco that’s been infused with flavors such as mint, cinnamon, eucalyptus respectful of the vendors in terms of photo taking. and much more. Plazoleta San Pedro Calle Palacio 121 Daily 7am-5pm (084) 222-424 www.cuzcodining.com/marcelo-batata.htm

70 71 FALLENANGELBAR - $$ REPUBLICADELPISCOBAR - $ NUEVOMUNDODRAFTBARBAR - $ LIMBUSCOCKTAIL BAR- $ An eclectic bar with quirky decorations This chic, elegant bar is well loved by This brewery house specializes in craft The menu at Limbus offers a variety of ranging from the avant-garde to both locals and visitors. Well-versed beer, serving 12 types of beer on tap creative, innovative cocktails and animal-print stools and bathtubs bartenders can whip up any drink you and more than 40 by the bottle. You’ll contemporary food. The restaurant converted into tables. Cusco’s most desire, and the establishment often also find excellent food with local has a daring design as well and a important gay-friendly bar. Great plays hosts to events. ingredients, and you’ll enjoy it while spectacular view of the city from their selection of nibbles and cocktails. Calle Plateros 354, Cusco gazing out at a nice view above amazing terrace! One of the best Cusco’s main square. Nuevo Mundo places in Cusco. Plazoleta Nazarenas 221 (5184) 244111 / 983 426 454 often hosts live music, so you’re sure (084) 258-184 Calle Pasñapakana 133, Cusco Daily 5pm-2am to find an energizing atmosphere. (084) 431282 Monday to Saturday 11am-11pm; www.rdpcusco.pe Sundays 3pm-11pm Portal Confituria 233-B “nd. Flor, Plaza de Armas, Cusco Monday to Saturday 8am-11pm; www.fallenangelincusco.com/wordpress/ Sundays 11am-11pm NORTONRAT’STAVERNBAR - $ (084) 240594 www.limbusrestobar.com Located on a popular corner of the Daily 5pm-11pm; Mondays, Tuesdays, PADDYFLAHERTÝSPUB - $ Plaza de Armas, this American-style Fridays and Saturdays from 12pm A typical Irish pub with views of the bar is in the center of the action. It’s a KM.0BAR- $ main square and decent pub-style laidback experience and incredibly CHOLOSCRAFTSBEERSBAR - $ Enjoy live music here each night at food. Claiming to be the highest Irish- 9pm. It features a casual atmosphere easy to find when you’re in need of a Cholos offers up some of the best owned pub on the planet, there’s drink. perfect for enjoying BBQ wings, fusion always a lively crowd in the evenings. local beer in town. Sip on what’s on tap food, snacks, red wine, and craft beers. Sta Catalina Angosta 116, Cusco as you enjoy delicious burgers and Calle Triunfo 124 Wi-fi and table games add some extra (084) 246204 snacks. fun to the atmosphere. (084) 247-719 Daily 8am-2am Calle Palacio 110, Cusco Live music every night and , Daily 10am-1pm 987 885 080 great BBQ wings, fusion food and www.paddysirishbarcusco.com LOSPERROSBAR - $ Mopnday to Saturday 12pm-1am snacks, craft beers, wi-fi, table games, A popular wine-couch bar with a Bar with great atmosphere. CALLEDELMEDIOBAR - $ selection of tasty food in a laid-back THECROSSKEYSPUB - $ Calle Tandapata 100, Cusco The best place to enjoy a drink with atmosphere. Artsy décor and a trendy This cozy British pub features a lovely (084) 233855 / 998 516 720 views over the main square from the vibe. fireplace and a homey seating area. Daily 6pm-2am balcony. Calle Tecsecocha 436 Sip on casual drinks and play table Calle del Medio 113, Plaza de Armas (084) 241-447 games as you unwind. (084) 237946 Daily 11am-12am (midnight) 2nd floor, Triunfo 350, Cusco Daily 11.30am-11pm (084) 229227 www.cuscorestaurants.com Daily 11.30am-1am

72 73 NEW MILFINE DINING - $$$ EL HUACATAYFINE DINING - $$$ KAIASHENAICAFE - $ Listings - It comes as a pleasant surprise that Everything here is delicious from the tucked behind a wall in a very healthy to not-as-healthy choices. Lots The Sacred Valley unassuming street is one of the finest of vegetarian options. Conveniently restaurants in the Cusco/Sacred Valley located right across from Seminario ELALBERGUEFINE DINING - $$ region. Every dish is perfectly and Ceramic Studio. Great for families as Although the restaurant is right at the delicately flavored– an absolute there is a playground for children. train tracks in Ollantaytambo, don’t let delight to the palate. Berriozabal 111, Urubamba (084) that fool you. This is one of, if not the, Jr. Arica 620, Urubamba - (084) 201- 201-192 best places for a tasty meal. Perfect 790 Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-9pm for a tranquil lunch or dinner before Monday to Saturday 12.30pm- 9.30pm, taking the train to Machu Picchu. Since its opening in February 2018, Sundays 9am-5pm MULLUCASUAL DINING - $$ Av Ferrocarril 1, Train Station, MIL has become one of the most www.elhuacatay.com Ollantaytambo Mullu Cafe serves dishes that renowned restaurants in Peru. creatively blend Peruvian and Asian (084) 204-014 Created by chef Virgilio Martinez of KAMPUASIAN/PIZZA - $$ flavors. With a rustic atmosphere, acclaimed Lima restaurant Central, Daily 5am-10pm Another tucked away gem in calming music, and fantastic views of MIL has an onsite lab where Virgilio www.elalbergue.com Urubamba, Kampu’s menu is small but Pisac, you’re sure to love it. experiments with growing produce every selection is excellent. You can and cooking at altitude. The eatery Plaza De Armas 352, Písac choose pastas or pizzas but it’s really KILLA WASI is located in the Sacred Valley with (084) 203073 known for the quality of its curries, (SOLYLUNA)FINE DINING - $$$ views of the stunning Inca with selections inspired from different Daily 9am-9pm Another fine dining experience in the archaeological site of Moray. The regions of Asia. Sacred Valley can be found at Killa offering is an exquisite 7 course PACA Wasi, the restaurant of luxury hotel Sol tasting menu that includes non- Sagrario 342, Urubamba (974) 955-977 PACAPERUVIAN/INTERNATIONAL - $$ y Luna. Like the hotel itself, the alcoholic drinks. Friday to Wednesday 1pm-9pm ambiance is relaxed but first class, Mil was listed at number 36 in Latin Not only does Paca Paca offer delicious Peruvian cuisine, but you’ll with modern interpretations of America by San Pellegrino in their CERVECERIADELVALLEBREWERY traditional Sacred Valley cuisine to annual list of the world’s 50 best also enjoy pizza and pasta - all served A craft brewery located in the Sacred by incredibly kind faces. match. Dishes here incorporate restaurants Valley between Urubamba and produce from nearby organic farms The restaurant is only open for Ollantaytambo offering unique flavors Av. Mariscal Castilla 640, Sacred Valley and ingredients sourced by the chef in lunch and has limited capacity. using locally sourced ingredients. 941 461 975 the Peruvian jungles. Reservations should be booked Brewery tours and tastings on the Tuesday to Sunday 1pm-9pm Fundo Huincho Lote A-5, Urubamba approximately 3 months in advance. weekends. From Cusco you can take (084) 201-620 Tuesday to Sunday, 12.30-3.30pm private or public transport directly to WAYRA Contact Aracari for more details on Paradero Puente Pachar; the brewery Daily 5am-10am; 12pm-3pm; 7pm- Inside Hotel Sol y Luna, Wayra features the experience or to arrange a lunch. is on the corner next to a small chapel. 10pm stunning mural and sculptures among www.hotelsolyluna.com/en/solyluna# www.milcentro.pe Pachar (984) 553-892 high ceilings and traditional Peruvian Wednesday to Sunday 12pm-8pm decor. You’ll enjoy Andean cuisine made of organic ingredients local to the Sacred Valley. Fundo Huincho Lote A5 08661 Urubamba (Cusco - Perú) T (84)608930 www.hotelsolyluna.com

74 75 CHUNCHOPERUVIAN - $$ CAFÉMAYUCAFE - $ LABOULANGERIEDEPARISCAFE - $ Chuncho highlights the slow food This lovely cafe sits right on the Listings - Machu Picchu As the owner actually is from Paris, the process by preparing dishes using Ollantaytambo train station platform, pastries here are a real treat. ancient Andean traditions. All where trains to and from Machu INDIO Sandwiches and other light fare make ingredients are local, and it’s an Picchu pass by. Fresh, organic FELIZFRENCH PERUVIAN FUSION - $$ it a good stop for a quick snack. Great excellent atmosphere for trying ingredients are a key feature of each If you’re only going to one restaurant in place to get a box lunch to take up to traditional local food. The bar features dish, with excellent local coffee and Aguas Calientes, this is the place to Machu Picchu (should be ordered the local beer from Sacred Valley Brewing cocktails to boot. go. They offer a prix-fixe option for a day before). Located just above where Co. and cocktails that include the local Estación de Tren s/n, Av Ferrocarril, little over $20 per person that includes the buses leave for the archeological spirit Caña Alta. Ollantaytambo an appetizer, main and dessert. There site. Chaupi Calle, Ollantaytambo - Sacred (084) 204014 are lots of choices and they are all Jr. Sinchi Roca Valley at Hotel El Albergue delicious with ample portions. Daily 5am-9pm (084) 211-398 979 797 638 Calle Lloque Yupanqui 103 www.cafemayu.com Daily 5am-9pm Saturday to Wednesday 12pm-10pm; (084) 211-090 Fridays 12pm-11.30pm HACIENDA HUAYOCCARI Daily 12pm-9pm PALATEBISTROCAFE - $ CUCHARA DE PALO This hidden gem is housed in a www.indiofeliz.com/index-en.html Surprisingly high quality cafe food, beautiful private estate in the village of especially for a place located on the Cuchara de Palo serves traditional and Huayoccari. On site, you’ll find a INCONTRI first floor of a backpacker hostel. Don’t Novo Andean cuisine. Dishes here stunning private collection of Peruvian DELPUEBLOVIEJOITALIAN - $$ let that turn you off... the pizzas, highlight the variety and rich taste of art to peruse as you sip a pisco sour salads and burgers are all first rate. With the owner-chef being Italian, you Andean produce. With locally sourced before your meal. The terrace offers up can be assured of getting authentic Calle Chaskatika 203 ingredients and meals made from beautiful views of the Sacred Valley to cuisine here. Good for a light bite such (084) 435-830 scratch, it’s a true experience. enjoy as you feast on traditional as soups, salads or pizza as well as Plaza Constitución 333 Pisac, Calca, Andean dishes with locally grown Daily 9am-1am full meals. Also has some of the best Cusco ingredients. wines you’ll find in town. (084) 203062 Road Cusco-Pisac-Urubamba, between CHULLPICASUAL DINING - $$ Av. Pachacutec, 6th Block Daily 7am-9pm km. 60 y 61 - Sacred Valley, Cusco, Perú Chullpi specializes in modern takes on (084) 211-072 cucharadepalorestaurant.com (084) 226241 traditional fare, with excellent local ingredients. Dishes also offer creative Restaurant serves from 11.30am-4pm; Daily 11am-10pm takes on local history, with great HEART’SCAFÉCAFE - $ 6pm to close. thought and care put into presentation. Hearts Cafe serves homestyle healthy haciendahuayoccari.com QUNUQ (SUMAQ HOTEL) FINE DINING - $$$ Av Imperio de los Incas 140, Aguas meals with an Andean twist. It offers Calientes up great value for the price - and of This 5-star hotel’s restaurant would course, great taste. hold its own alongside the best places (084) 211350 Avendio Ventiderio, Ollantaytambo in Lima, let alone Machu Picchu. Daily 12pm-10pm Reservations are essential and bear in (084) 436726 mind that if the hotel is full it can be a Daily 7am-10pm bit noisy. www.heartscafe.org Av. Hermanos Ayar Mz 1 Lote 3 (084) 211-059 www.machupicchuhotels-sumaq.com

76 77 THE NORTH COAST

Hand diving for seafood

78 79 archaeological sites and artifacts, coast, whether in an upscale tourist con pato, a dish of duck cooked in The North Coast including fine ceramics that detailed restaurant in Máncora or a rustic black beer and served with rice. In every aspect of their lives. In Moche cevichería in Piura. Keep an eye out for Piura, there’s seco de chabelo, a dish of The north coast region of Peru packs a ceramics particularly, we can see ceviche de conchas negras, a unique partially African origin that consists of real punch when it comes to flavor, with images of local ingredients still used ceviche made with black shellfish mashed green plantain, beef or pork, fresh ceviches, seafood soups, slow- today, including fish, shellfish, corn, found only in the mangrove areas of and chicha de jora. The meat, wheat cooked and tender duck among squash, tubers, peppers and beans. Tumbes. Then there’s the chinguirito, a and bean soup shámbar is famous the regional specialties. From the 1470s onwards, the north ceviche made using dried pacific throughout Trujillo, as is sopa teóloga Pre-Columbian and Spanish culinary coast saw the arrival of two powerful guitarfish and found only in the (literally “theologian soup”), a soup of traditions have permeated the cuisine rivals in quick succession. First, the Lambayeque Region. Other classic chicken or turkey, bread, vegetables of the north coast, which comprises the overthrew the Chimú north coast seafood dishes include and various local herbs and spices. four regions of Tumbes, Piura, Kingdom and its vast adobe capital, sudado de pescado (a steamed fish The north coast’s most famous sweet Lambayeque and La Libertad. Each of Chan Chan. Then, in 1528, Francisco stew), jalea mixta (a heaped pile of concoction is the , which these coastal regions has distinct local Pizarro and his Spanish conquistadors breaded seafood, typical of Chiclayo), consists of floury, buttery cookies stuck dishes that are rarely found anywhere began scouting the area from Tumbes and tortilla de raya (a type of dried ray together with sweet, sticky fillings. The else in Peru, so culinary travelers down to Trujillo; not long after, they omelet that dates back to pre- most famous version is Lambayeque’s always have something new to would begin the conquest of Peru in Columbian times). impressive King Kong, a big flaky discover. earnest. The culinary heritage of the Goat, particularly kid (cabrito), is typical block full of manjar blanco (dulce de From 100 AD to the mid-1400s, the pre-Columbian civilizations would of the north coast and is found in leche), dried fruits and sweet north coast of Peru was dominated by ultimately mix with both Inca and popular dishes such as seco de cabrito pineapple. powerful civilizations such as the Spanish traditions, creating a distinctly (kid cooked in chicha de jora, a type of Moche and then the Chimú. These two . corn beer). Duck is also common in related cultures left behind a wealth of Ceviche is popular all along the north Chiclayo and Trujillo, especially arroz

“Caballitos de totora” - reed fishing vessels in the seaside town of Huanchaco

80 81 RESTAURANT DEMARCO ITALIAN - $$ ROMANO Listings - Trujillo This Italian café and bistro serves a RINCONCRIOLLOCREOLE FOOD - $$ Listings - Huanchaco variety of pizzas and pastas. Reviews This creole establishment offers a about the quality of the food and wide variety of menu options, and is BIGBENSEAFOOD - $$ RESTAURANTS service are mixed, so keep this in mind especially delicious for meat lovers. Although there is more than seafood if you decide to eat here. You’ll also enjoy an onsite wine cellar on the menu, that’s why you want to SQUALO’SCRIOLLO - $$ Pizarro 725 with affordable offerings. come here. With a view of the sea from Specializing in criollo seafood classics your table, there’s no better way to (044) 234-251 Estados Unidos 162, Urbanización El like ceviche and rice with mariscos, Recreo taste its fruits. Squalo’s is a bustling lunch spot in the Daily 8am-12am Daily 11.30am-5pm Avenida Victor Larco 1184. Urb. El center of Trujillo. The menu is huge www.demarcoperu.com Boquerón (044) 244207 - 296917 and includes a vast array of other (044) 461-378 / (044) 461-869 choices, including a surprisingly large CHELSEANORTEÑO - $$ www.restaurantromano.com wine list. Daily 11.30am-5.30pm If you’re looking for a night out, this is www.bigbenhuanchaco.com Diaz de Cienfuegos #250, Urb. La one of the better choices in town as COCOTORETEMEAT & GRILL - $$ Merced, Trujillo you can try a wide variety of regional Coco Torete serves top notch (044) 295-134 food in the restaurant area and then and is the perfect place to HUANCHACO Daily 12pm-4pm follow it up by dancing in the bar/club. satisfy meat cravings. The restaurant BEACHCLUBSEAFOOD- $$ www.squalosseafoodrestaurant.com Housed in a historic mansion. also offers a delicious selection of Sit upstairs to enjoy the sea breeze Jr. Estete N 675 wine and beverages, along with a and the ocean view, not to mention the charming atmosphere. excellent seafood. Wash it down with a MOCHICANORTEÑO - $$ (044) 257-032 Av. Larco Mz. M3 lote 15 Urb. San refreshing beer or frozen lemonade. Monday to Saturday 6.30pm-12.30am As you can see by the website, this Andrés 5ta. etapa. - (44) 383404 Avenida Victor Larco 800 restaurant started out in Huanchaco Martinez de Compañón 648 Urb. San (044) 461-484 and you can visit it there as well if PAPRIKANORTEÑO - $$ Andrés. - (44) 266088 you’re in the neighborhood. Known for Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-5pm Located inside Hotel Costa Del Sol, Daily 12:20pm-12.30am its delicious regional food cooked this eatery specializes in dishes from www.cocotorete.com from recipes passed down for the Libertad region of northwestern MOCOCHO SEAFOOD - $$ generations. Peru. Mococho offers all kinds of delicious Calle Sta. Marina 146 Jr. Independencia 485, Plaza de Armas and healthy seafood options. Diners especially love the fresh steamed fish, (044) 044 659214 (044) 232-741 / 972 701 493 Daily 8am-11pm topped with rich and tasty sauce options. www.elmochica.com.pe Jiron Francisco Bolognesi 633, Huanchaco 961 343 392 Tuesday to Sunday 12.30pm-3.30pm

82 83 Victoria ELCANTAROCREOLE - $$ Listings - Chiclayo (074) 270-330 At El Cantaro, you’ll find classic Listings - Mancora Monday to Saturday 12pm-4.30pm, northern dishes prepared with VICHAYONORTEÑO - $$ 7pm-10.30pm; Sundays 12pm-5pm traditional methods. Local ingredients GANAHASUSHI - $$ For a fusion of flavors and dishes with and a wealth of experience - the Japanese-Peruvian cuisine with sushi a Chiclayano twist, Vichayo may be a restaurant has been around for four being the house specialty. good option if you want to try a more FIESTA decades - add a depth to each dish. Playa Amor 124 - Mancora unique taste of Norteño cuisine. RESTAURANT GOURMET NORTEÑO - $$ 2 de mayo 180, Lambayeque (981) 308-211 Los Alamos 230 Urb. Santa Victoria (074) 282-196 Tuesday to Sunday 1pm-11pm (074) 227-664 Daily 9am-5pm Daily 12.30pm-4.30pm; Thursday to ELAJIINTERNATIONAL - $$ Saturday 8pm-12.30am NORTEÑO - $$ SABORESPERUANOS Large portions of a variety of Sabores Peruanos is an excellent spot MERCADOMODELOMARKET international style cuisine but with a to familiarize yourself with delicious specialty of Mexican (Tex-Mex). Try Covering several blocks, this local northern cuisine. The eatery serves up the lomo saltado fajitas- a nice switch market is a great place to pick up local favorite typical dishes, all of which are from the typical restaurant here which fruits, chocolate and other items. This delicious. is more seafood focused. is also where traditional shamans will Av. Los Incas 136 | La Victoria come to pick up their wares. Be aware Héctor Solís is the founder of the Av. Piura interior 979 779 741 of pickpockets! Fiesta restaurant group with 998 488 325 branches in Lima and , Chiclayo. Daily 11.30am-5pm Arica btwn Balta & Cugilevan Daily 9am-11pm Solís has been credited with Monday to Saturday 7am-8pm; Sundays bringing norteño cuisine into the TOSTAOCAFECAFE - $ 7am-2pm ANGELA’SPLACEVEGETARIAN - $$ realm of the gourmet and is known This coffee shop is a great experience Great place for vegetarian and vegan for his belief that ceviche is not for anyone who loves a good brew. ELRINCONDELPATOCREOLE - $$ options. Fruits and veg are sanitized merely a Peruvian dish but a style of Serving rich, delicious Peruvian coffee, El Rincon del Pato specializes in so it’s a safe place to offer a nice big preparation. At Fiesta you will find a they’ll be sure to craft you a perfect ceviche and steamed fish, both of salad if you’ve been holding off. generous offering of norteño caffeinated cup. which are big enough to share. You’ll specialties from succulent duck Av. Piura 396 enjoy fresh ingredients, some of the 250 Las Jacarandas Urbanización, Av. over rice to the seafood dish, mero Sta. Victoria, Chiclayo (073) 411 396 best ceviche in the region, and a murique () flambé. The (074) 233-868 charming, plant-filled interior. The variety of flavors and fresh, regional Daily 10am-11pm flavor is well worth the price! ingredients make Fiesta the most Daily 11.30am-11pm Medano 124, Chiclayo highly recommended dining option LASIRENADEJUANSEAFOOD - $$ (074) 200-326 in Chiclayo. LA PICANTERIA DEL MARSEAFOOD - $$ Seafood and so much more, this is a Daily 10am-7pm Salaverry 1820, Chiclayo Enjoy artisanal dishes of sustainably great gourmet option in a town full of (074) 201-970 sourced seafood at La Picanteria del much more low-brow eateries. Some Mar. With local fish dishes and an eye Mediterranean and Asian influences. ELHUARALINOCRIOLLO - $$ Monday to Saturday: 8.30am-10pm, Sundays 8.30am-4pm toward preserving the local Av. Piura 316 Old-school ambiance serving up criollo environment, this eatery is a win-win. seafood and international dishes www.restaurantfiestagourmet.com (073) 258-173 Rivera del Mar 164, Pimentel prepared in the traditional Chiclayano Wednesday to Monday 12.30pm-4pm, style. (074) 453-142 7pm-11pm Avenida La Libertad 155, Urb. Santa Daily 11am-5.30pm

84 85 ARENNASPERUVIAN FUSION - $$ ELNUEVOAJICITOCEVICHE - $$ PAPRIKANORTENO - $$ The restaurant at the Arennas hotel is Best cevichería in town, very popular This much-loved eatery offers the fresh a pleasant surprise. You would expect KICHICVEGETARIAN / SEAFOOD - $$$ with locals. Rustic, natural environment. and thoughtful prepared Peruvian the delicious Peruvian fusion cuisine Urb. La Providencia, Av. Las Gardenias classics. Here, the presentation of each combined with the friendly and Mz.B Lt.5, Piura dish is just as fantastic as the flavor. attentive service to come at a much (073) 331-290 Av. Loreto 649, Piura - (073) 302-864 higher price tag. Daily 12pm-11pm Panamericana Norte Km. 1213 Daily 11.30am-4.30pm (073) 283-800 www.elnuevoajicito.pe PIQARESTOBARSEAFOOD - $$ Daily Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner (But food is available in between as well) The theme is healthy food here, as CHIFACANTONCHIFA - $$ With a cheerful and welcoming the restaurant is at a hotel that atmosphere, Piqa Restobar features www.arennasmancora.com Although Piura isn’t renowned for it, focuses on wellness. They have this is a great option for chifa with an seafood and fusion options to suit any separate vegetarian and seafood ample menu. palate. and ingredients are Calle Tacna 119, Piura Jr. San Ramón s/n, Esquina con Av. LAFABRICARESTOBAR - $$ sourced to be as fresh and local as Panamericana - Piura (073) 328-585 This charming bar and restaurant sits possible. The ambiance is lovely (073) 616-453 on the beach for ultimate relaxation. and tranquil, like taking a step into Daily 12pm-11pm Daily 12.30pm-4pm; 7pm-1am Housed in a reclaimed former factory, Asia on the beach in Peru. the space was sustainably made with Panamericana Norte Km. 1213 BOTEGGACAPUCCINOCAFE - $$ recycled materials. Featuring a menu (073) 411-518 Botegga Capuccino, you’ll come for created by Austrian chef Luca Listings - Tumbes Daily, 12.30pm-3pm, 7pm-9.30pm the delicious lunch, but you’ll stay for Tamussino, whose work here was www.kichic.com/restaurant/ the top-of-the-line dessert. Be sure to EDUARDOELBRUJOSEAFOOD - $$$ inspired by Central chef Virgilio order one of their beautifully presented A bit pricey but some of the best fresh Martinez, every dish is a delight. sweets to finish off your meal. 956 893 292 seafood that you can find in Northern Calle San Miguel N° 298, Santa Isabel, Piura Peru. Sunday to Friday 12pm-10pm; Saturdays 12pm-12am (073) 301111 Calle Bolognesi and Malecon Benavides Auxiliar Panamericana Norte 1000 Listings - Piura Daily 9am-11pm (entrada a Pocitas), Mancora. 972 678 640 CAPUCCINO GOURMETGOURMET - $$ TAYANTIPERUVIAN - $$ Daily 10am-11pm YUKANIKKEI - $$ A good quality upscale restaurant in Enjoy tasty Peruvian fare with well www.eduardoelbrujo.com Enjoy delicious Peruvian Japanese Piura, with reasonable pricing. presented dishes and a lively seating food, also known as Nikkei, at this Previously located next to the Plaza de area. tasty local eatery. Armas, has now moved location. Avenida Andrés avelino Cáceres A3, Piura, Peru Av. Piura 261, Mancora Avenida Ramon Nujica S/N, Piura, Peru (073) 623-478 (073) 258-173 969 698 913 Daily, 12.30pm-4pm, 19.30 to 1am Thursday to Tuesday 12pm-3.30pm, Monday to Saturday 11.30am-11.30pm, 7pm-11pm Sundays 11.30am-5pm www.capuccino-piura.com

86 87 AREQUIPA AND THE SOUTH COAST

Grape cultivation at Las Viñas Queirolo in Ica

88 89 is the coastal carapulcra, a dried immediately below Ica lies in the Below Arequipa are the two Arequipa potato and meat stew that began with Arequipa Region -- a region dominated southernmost regions of Peru, the Incas and was adapted by both by the inland city of Arequipa. The Moquegua and Tacna, the latter & the South Coast Spanish colonists and African slaves, cuisine of notable coastal towns in the sharing a border with . Tacna is becoming a spicier, more flavorful region, such as Camaná and Mollendo, famous for its adobo tacneño, which Dry deserts and dusty highways don’t version of its former self. is largely based around seafood and consists of chunks of pork marinated bode well for fine cuisine, but you’ll be Afro-Peruvian culture is especially the catch of the day, so expect in garlic, ají panca, vinegar, cumin and pleasantly surprized by the food and pronounced in the north of the Ica anything from ceviche to steamed palillo (turmeric). Moquegua, half way drink along Peru’s south coast. Region, particularly in the city of razor clams. between Tacna and Arequipa regions Despite possessing some of the driest Chincha, where African influences are The city of Arequipa itself is surprise its visitors with a big variety of deserts in the world, civilizations along easy to see in the folk culture, art, something of an anomaly, being half fine desserts for such a small city, one this coastal strip have long been fed by music and food. Each year in February, way between the coast and the heights where siesta is still compulsory. both the sea and by fertile river valleys Chincha hosts the Verano Negro of the Andes, and possessing an Beyond food, there is one thing that all descending from the Andes. Pre- (“Black Summer”) festival, the biggest independent streak that has some of the above regions have in common: Columbian civilizations such as the celebration of Afro-Peruvian culture in arequipeños dreaming of pisco. Peru’s iconic grape brandy is Paracas and Nazca cultures flourished Peru. Classic African-influenced dishes independence from the rest of Peru. produced in the coastal vineyards of here from 100 BC to 800 AD, adapting found in Chincha include bufo Typical dishes from the Arequipa Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and the barren environment with irrigation chinchano -- a robust mix of cow lungs region include ají de lacayote (made Tacna. Home to the city of Pisco itself, systems, intelligent water and liver with vegetables and spices -- using a local variety of squash) and the Ica region is arguably the most management and underground and a sesame-sprinkled black bean adobo arequipeño (a juicy dish of pork, famous grape-growing and pisco- aqueducts. and dessert called rocoto, chicha de jora and red onions). producing region in the world. While Today, the coastal regions south of frejol colado. Beans are common all Arequipa’s spicy rocoto relleno the so-called “Pisco Route” has now Lima -- Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and along the south coast. Pallar beans, (stuffed rocoto pepper), meanwhile, is been expanded to include the entire Tacna -- produce a range of distinct otherwise known as lima beans or distinct from its Cusco counterpart, south coast, the traditional tour was dishes, many of which fall under the beans, feature in two regional while the city is also famous for chupe largely contained within Ica, stopping broad label of cocina criolla, or staples: picante de pallares (beans de camarones, made from fresh river off at the region’s most historic Peruvian creole food. This style of cooked in ají verde, garlic and other . Many of these dishes can be bodegas and haciendas, some of cuisine is a mix of pre-Columbian, herbs and spices) and morusa (a pallar found in one of the city’s picanterias, which have been in operation for more Spanish and Afro-Peruvian influences. bean puree served with pork or beef). which are always busy with locals and than a century. A classic example of this cultural mix The sparse stretch of coast serve enormous portions.

Rocoto chilli peppers at La Nueva Palomino picanteria in Arequipa

90 91 associated with wood barrel aging. Pisco - The Spirit of Peru D.O. PISCO The use of the name pisco is regulated QUICK FACTS by the organizations Indecopi and the Consejo Regulador Denominación de Pisco is a spirit made using a Origen Pisco. particular process based on a traditional method that uses Peruvian PISCO GRAPE VARIETIES: grapes. Pisco is a Quechua word that means Aromatic grapes: Italia, Torontel, Albilla “Bird” and is also the name of a port in and Moscatel. the south of Peru famous for its Non-aromatic grapes: Quebranta, ceramics. Uvina, Negra Criolla and Mollar. pounds of the finest estate-grown Culinary Experiences - single expression grapes. The spirit is DISTILLATION PROCESS REGIONS OF PERU WHERE PISCO distilled to 8o proof and is unaged, GRAPES ARE MOST COMMONLY South Coast unaltered, and made with no additional To make pisco, the fresh juice of CULTIVATED: flavors or additives - not even water. It Peruvian grapes is firstly fermented in PISCO PORTON - THE OLDEST is rested in concrete containers for a tanks before being distilled in copper The Valleys of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, DISTILLERY IN THE AMERICAS minimum of six months to allow the alembics. The first yield during Moquegua and Tacna. flavors and aromas to reach their peak distillation is called “the head”, which This fascinating private tour of the before bottling. During your tour, you isdiscarded due to its toxicity. PISCO CATEGORIES: oldest distillery in the Americas, La will witness the use of gravity-fed As soon as the desired alcohol level is Caravedo, includes tastings of the distillation to gently extract the flavor of achieved, the body of the spirit can be Puro: Made from just one authorized incredible Piscos of the same names: the grapes, a wooden usillo to press the obtained. “The tail” emerges after the grape. You will find the name of the La Caravedo Torontel and La Caravedo grapes, and a state-of-the-art facility content of alcohol drops below the grape on the label. Quebranta. Developed by Master using small batch copper pot stills. You desired level. This is also discarded Acholado: A blend of at least 2 Distiller and Pisco expert Johnny will also be able to taste test the Pisco due to its toxicity and high water level authorized grapes. Schuler, La Caravedo has the same created here while you enjoy a content. Mosto Verde: The distillation of an quality, authenticity, and heritage as the complimentary happy hour from a After distillation, the alcohol incompletely fermented juice. Hacienda where it is made. Every bottle sunset viewpoint. percentage is between 38 and 45% of La Caravedo is made with eight ABV. No dilution is involved. Upon COMMON AROMAS FOUND IN PISCO: completion, the extracted distillate it transferred into stainless steel tanks Apple, mango, raisin, olive, jasmine, for as little as 2 months, although orange blossom, lavender, lemon, more typically it sits for a year or more. orange and lime. The flavor of the distillate remains crisp and clean, avoiding any changes to the flavor profile that would be

92 93 ON THE GRAPEVINE - TACAMA SUNSET YACHT CRUISE SALAMANTOFINE DINING - $$$ WINERY Listings - Arequipa One of the best fine dining experiences that Arequipa has to offer, from the perfectly flavored dishes to the exquisite RESTAURANTS presentation. An extensive wine list including some organic choices. PALADAR San Francisco 211 - Cercado (HOTELCIRQA)FINE DINING - $$$ (054) 577-061 / 979 394 676 The rooftop eatery is planned to open / 972 585 799 late 2019. Accompanied by an organic Monday to Saturday 1pm-11.30pm garden, guests can enjoy refined www.salamanto.com Step aboard for a private luxury yacht Arequipa-inspired dishes with amazing Enjoy the perfect introduction to cruise. Your boat is complete with a 360º views of the city, the Cathedral, ZIGZAGFINE DINING - $$$ Peruvian wine on a half-day tour. Visit small indoor dining area for enjoying surrounding volcanoes and mountains. Tacama, Peru’s oldest vineyard, dating fresh seafood appetizers and an Calle Sucre 104 – Arequipa back to the 16th century. Along with its outdoor seating area for admiring the 944 196 058 impressive heritage, Tacama boasts a sunset. Cruise the gentle of new cellar for carefully ageing Paracas Bay while sipping Peruvian CHICHAFINE DINING - $$$ their quality wines. With exclusive sparkling wine and watching the sky It’s tough to go wrong with a menu access to the cellar only occasionally light up in shades of orange and red. inspired by Peru’s most noted chef, open to the public, you’ll be taken on a Gaston Acurio. Featuring traditional special journey from grape to glass. favorites as well as new takes on You’ll learn about the combination of The fusion of Swiss and Peruvian Peruvian cuisine using fresh local traditional processes and cutting-edge influence is a winner here, with ingredients, Chicha is a sure bet for technology used to produce everything from the main courses, fine dining in Arequipa. exceptional wines, sparkling wines and to the desserts and on to the wine piscos. Stroll past the year’s Tannats, Santa Catalina 210 lists combining to provide an Chardonnays and other grapes waiting (054) 287-360 unforgettable experience. Note the staircase designed by French to be harvested as your guide briefs Monday to Saturday, 12pm-11pm; you on the history of the vineyard, the Sunday 12pm-8pm architect, Gustave Alexandre Eiffel. Zela 210-212, Cercado differences in the types of grapes www.chicha.com.pe currently being grown, appropriate (054) 206-020 harvest times and more. Tacama is TRATORIA Daily 12pm-11pm also special because of its www.zigzagrestaurant.com architecture. It is one of the few places DELMONASTERIOFINE DINING - $$ in Peru where you can visit a charming Delicious Italian with Arequipeño colonial-style hacienda with many of influences and Andean ingredients the traditional elements still intact make this a special night out. Great including the welcoming avenue of setting in the monastery grounds. trees, patio with arches, chapel, belfry Santa Catalina 309 (054) 204-062 and stables. Climbing the belfry you Daily 12pm-4pm; Monday to Saturday can enjoy a panoramic view across the 7pm-11pm vineyards www.latrattoriadelmonasterio.com

94 95 LAITALIANAITALIAN - $$ CASTAFIORCASUAL DINING - $$ MUNDIALTRADITIONAL - $ NUESTRAPICANTERÍAMODERN - $ A place to enjoy generous specialties Located at Hotel Maison de Elise, More than 95 years serving huge A welcome addition to the world of the with "il vero sapore italiano". The menu Casta Fior offers a wonderful blend of portions of delicious Arequipeño food picanteria in Arequipa with great tasting offers a wide variety of antipasti, cozy atmosphere and upscale ensures that you will get the best the food and perhaps more attention to pizzas, pastas and exquisite meats. offerings. From each dish right down area has to offer. detail than the old-school options. Calle San Francisco 303 - Cercado to the tea, every offering is delicious. Calle Lucas Poblete 211, El Filtro Calle Málaga Grenet D-4 Urb. Magisterial, Umacollo (054) - 202080 - www.la-italiana.com Av. Francisco Bolognesi Nº 106, (054) 232-040 / 958176504 Yanahuara - Arequipa. Tuesday to Saturday 9am-5pm, Monday to Saturday, 12pm-11pm; Daily 11am-5.30pm (054) 25 18 68 Sundays and Mondays 12pm-5pm Sundays, 12pm-10pm www.picanterialamundial.com.pe Tuesday to Saturday, 8.30am-10.30pm; (054) 484-685 PERUITAPIZZA - $ Sundays, 8.30am-4pm www.hotelmaisondelise.com LA BENITA Pasta and Italian style pizza in a low-key LANUEVAPALOMINO MODERN - $ setting. Good for getting your fix and La Benita has served the region’s best having a change from the regional cuisine. dishes for eight generations. It’s a true legend and well worth a visit! Palacio Viejo 321 A PICANTERIAS Plaza Principal 114 Characato, Arequipa (054) 212-621 LACAPITANATRADITIONAL - $ 972 348 929 Monday to Friday, 12.30pm-3pm, You can’t really say you’ve tried Daily 8am-5pm; Sunday 6am-5pm 5.30pm-10pm; Saturdays 5.30pm-10pm Peruvian food without going to a www.picanterialabenita.blogspot.com picanteria. Arequipa is the ideal place MONTONEROFINE DINING - $$$ in the country to visit one of these Amongst the best restaurants in the traditional restaurants and La Capitana Considered by many locals to be the CAFES AND CHOCOLATE city, and best for lunches. Featuring is one of the best. best of Arequipa’s picanterias, although a little touristy. It can get a CREPÍSIMOCREPES - $ the typical recipes of Arequipa and Calle Los Arces 209, Yanahuara offering both old-school and bit loud on the weekends but this is From the same people who have Zig Zag, Daily 8am-12am contemporary dishes. the place to go for local flavor in one of the most noted gourmet both food and ambiance. Alameda Pardo 123 Cercado, Arequipa restaurants in Arequipa, comes SOLDEMAYOMODERN - $ Pasaje Leoncio Prado 122, Yanahuara Crepisimo. Relaxed atmosphere with high (054) - 270528 After close to a century serving some (054) 252-393 - Daily, 11am-5pm quality food including more than 100 Daily 11am-11pm of Arequipa’s best typical food, the types of crepes - both sweet and savory, www.el-montonero.com restaurant has become so known it’s a sandwiches, salads, juices and cocktails. bit touristy. The food is great though TIPIKAMODERN - $ Calle Santa Catalina 208, Cercado SAMBAMBAIASCASUAL DINING - $$ and the ambiance is lovely, with a beautiful garden setting. Good typical in a Daily 8am-11pm - (054) 206-620 Sambambaias is great for families and traditional setting with a lovely outdoor Calle Jerusalen 207, Yanahuara www.crepisimo.com large groups. Enjoy typical dishes in a terrace. If you have small children, this traditional yet modern and homemade (054) 254-148 / 957600133 is a great place to try as they have an LADESPENSACAFE - $ style. Best for dinners. Daily 11am-6pm outdoor playground to keep them from European-style cafe. Pastas, sandwiches, Av. Luna Pizarro 304, Arequipa getting bored. www.soldemayo.com.pe quiche, pastries, coffee, and more. 054-223 657 Calle Luna Pizarro 407, Vallecito Santa Catalina 302 sambambaias.com.pe (054) 223 964 (054) 222-104 Monday to Saturday 12pm-10pm; Daily 12pm-5pm Sundays 12pm-5pm Monday to Friday 8am-10pm, Saturday www.tipika.com.pe 10am-10pm, Sunday 9am-9pm

96 97 PUKUPUKUCAFE - $ IBERICACHOCOLATE - $ RESTAURANTE It offers a great view of the city from Probably the best chocolate Listings - PARACASPERUVIAN/SEAFOOD - $$ its terrace. Watch a beautiful sunset as commercially produced in Peru, a gift A huge menu of typical Peruvian you sip on a coffee. from here makes an excellent present to The South Coast dishes with a heavy emphasis on Calle Santa Catalina 120. 2nd. floor. take home with you or to enjoy yourself seafood, although there are plenty of Casona Mayor. (Between Santa and remember your trip to Peru. beef, chicken and even vegetarian Catalina and Moral street). Jerusalen 136 RESTAURANTS options. Also features some dishes Monday to Saturday 8am-10pm; especially for children. Sundays 11am-6pm (054) 218-842 INTIMARSEAFOOD - $$ www.laiberica.com.pe Av. Paracas al ingreso del Muelle, El www.pukupuku.pe Seafood eatery on the beachfront near Chaco, Paracas pisco. (056) 535138 / 984586030 Km 38 Pisco – Punta Pejerrey BARS Daily 10am-11pm CHAQCHAOCHOCOLATES, CAFE / BAR - $ 981 318 866 www.restaurantparacas.com MUSEODELPISCOBAR - $$ Monday to Saturday 10.30am-3.30pm If you want to learn more about Peru’s www.inti-mar.com/restaurant/ RESTAURANTE national liquor, pisco, this is one of the OLLADEJUANITAPERUVIAN - $$ best places to go. Not only does the bar EL PILOTOSEAFOOD CRIOLLO - $$ stock a huge variety of labels, unlike Huge portions, delicious Peruvian With more than 40 years in the favorites and reasonable prices make most places, a pisco tasting is available business, the original El Piloto offers at any time without prior reservation. this a popular place for travelers and Whether you go for the chocolates, gigantic portions of Peruvian standard Peruvians alike. Perfectly located for a Lots of pisco cocktails to sample and dishes, and delicious yucitas fritas. the coffee, the craft beer, the the kitchen offers several different lunch stop in between visiting homemade ice cream or the Best known for dishes with camarones wineries. tapas to keep your appetite sated. Also (crayfish). Quality can vary and has desserts, you won’t be disappointed. holds pisco cocktail making classes. Fundo Tres Esquinas 121, Subtanjalla, recent unfavorable reviews. Ica Santa Catalina 204, 2nd Floor Moral St. 229 Av. 28 de Julio 216 (Antigua (056) 403-317 (054) 234-572 (054) 281-583 Panamericana Sur Km.138 ), Cañete Daily 10am-11pm Daily 11am-1am Monday to Wednesday 12pm-5.30pm; (01) 284-4114 Thursday to Saturday 12pm-5pm; www.chaqchao-chocolates.com www.museodelpisco.org/ Sundays 12.30pm-5pm: 11am-5pm RESTAURANTE EL PORTON CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP LACASONADELPISCO BAR-$$ El Porton offers a relaxing, airy RESTAURANTE HACIENDA SAN JOSE Learn about the history of chocolate, With the excellent pisco and perfect atmosphere and a Sunday buffet Located inside a unique country-side how it’s processed and even how to atmosphere for enjoying it, this is a service. historical property, Hacienda San Jose make your own. It’s the perfect place great place to just sit and enjoy good Ignacio Morsesky 120, Nasca is an experience all its own. The food for a workshop as anyone in your company and cocktails. It’s also a (056) 523490 / 956789810 is great, but the surroundings are just group who’s not interested can just restaurant serving fine cuisine so you as fantastic. relax in the cafe and enjoy the can come here for drinks before or Daily 11am-11pm Hacienda San José s/n (Altura Km. 203 delicious goodies there. after dinner or actually just stay here www.elportonrestaurant.com.pe Panamericana Sur) El Carmen - Santa Catalina 204, 2nd Floor for the whole evening. Chincha, Ica. (054) 234-572 San Francisco 319 056 -313332 / 940 234 957 Sunday to Thursday 10am-11pm, (054) 231809 www.casahaciendasanjose.com/restaurante/ Fridays and Saturdays 10am-12am Daily 12pm-12am www.chaqchao-chocolates.com

98 99 RESTAURANTE DEL HOTEL MOSSONE (056) 581030 Located right in front of Huacachina PISCO AND VINEYARDS Visits to the Bodega: Tuesday to EL BATAN lagoon, this historical establishment is Saturday 9am-4.30pm A casual setting gives way to a wide a must visit if visiting the oasis. Be VIÑASDELOROVINEYARD www.tacama.com variety of food offerings - including sure to take a look at the original Tour the vineyard and find out more excellent ceviche. Next door is a 1920s design. about Peru’s national liquor, pisco. HACIENDA charming bakery where you’ll definitely (01) 6143900 / (056) 213629, 213630 You’ll learn how it’s made and get to LACARAVEDOPISCO DISTILLERY taste some different varieties. Visit the want to stop for dessert. Daily 12pm-2.30pm, 7pm-10.30pm If you’re going to visit one pisco bar and try some of the delicious Panamericana Sur 791 Km. 197.5 (Al distillery, this should be it. Established cocktails that are made with pisco. costado del Súper Grifo Chincha) in 1641, it is the oldest distillery, not Carretera Panamericana Sur Km. 213 Chincha Alta - Ica just in Peru, but in all the Americas. Lote Canoa, Chincha (056) 268050 / (056) 265803 / 99 817 The number one pisco exported from INTIMAR (PARACAS) (01) 700 4500 6041 Peru, Pisco Porton was developed by Monday-Friday: 9am-1pm, 2pm-5pm; Daily 6.30am-10pm; Sundays 6.30am- Master Distiller Johnny Schuler, known Saturday: 9am-12pm 7pm as one of, if not the, world’s foremost www.elbatanchincha.com www.piscovinasdeoro.com.pe pisco experts. Km 291, Panamericana Sur HOTELVIÑASQUEIROLOVINEYARD RESTAURANTE EL TAMBO DE TACAMA Tours: (01) 711-7800 Although you can tour the winery El Tambo de Tacama is located on a www.caravedopisco.com beautiful vineyard that you can enjoy without staying at the hotel, if you are a lover of the grape, it’s hard to do along with your meal. You’ll find wine Intimar offers fantastic seafood, better than to wake up in the midst of tasting options, stunning vistas, and fresh from the sea to your table. CHOCOLATE 400 hectares of vineyards. Quierolo Peruvian paso horses here. Located on a quiet beach, it offers a has been around since 1880 and, while Av. Camino Real 390- La Tinguiña, Ica. dreamy nautical atmosphere. HELENA CHOCOLATES Y TEJAS once known for its piscos, it is now This Ica classic is a pioneer in the (01) 2183030 Km 38 carretera Pisco - Puerto San making a name for itself in the world Martín, Paracas world of chocolate recipes and Tuesday to Sunday 9am-5pm of wine, with its label Intipalka which is varieties. This brand takes packaging 991 350 656 gaining international recognition. to a whole new level, putting plenty of RESTAURANTE VIÑAS QUEIROLO Carretera San José de los Molinos km care into their presentations. Their Located inside the Hotel Viñas 11, Los Molinos, Ica chocolates make excellent gifts and Quierolo, this restaurant offers a (01) 2613772 / 965-397086 / 980- souveniers. You can also tour the flavorful breakfast buffet, beautifully 644023 factory, where you’ll see many presented lunch and dinner options, www.hotelvinasqueirolo.com products still handmade by chocolate and sweeping vineyard views. artisans. If you’re lucky you might even Carretera San José de los Molinos km HACIENDATACAMAVINEYARD come across the founder, Elena Soler, and she can share some of her 11, Los Molinos, Ica - Perú This renowned vineyard produces wonderful story with you! (01) 2613772 Anexo 102 / Ica : 965- fantastic wine and pisco. Hacienda 397086 / 980-644023 Tacama blends traditions of the past Factory: Av. Nicolás de Ribera el Viejo 227, Urb. Luren, Ica. (56) 23-2016 www.hotelvinasqueirolo.com with modern technology: it’s located on a centuries-old farm but uses Calle Cajamarca 139, Ica. (56) 23-2016 contemporary wine production www.helenachocolatier.com techniques. Av. Camino Real 390- La Tinguiña, Ica.

100 101 THE AMAZON RAINFOREST

“Causa de pituca” at ámaZ restaurant in Lima

102 103 baja: Puerto Maldonado in the far sounds of traffic and cumbia music. sections are home to aproned vendors The Amazon south, Pucallpa in the center, and Another common sight in the jungle is selling herbs and spices, or plastic Iquitos in the north. These three river the bijao leaf, or, more specifically, food buckets full of live turtles or snails, all The Peruvian Amazon opens up a ports have colorful histories, often wrapped inside a bijao leaf. These destined for the pot. whole new world of food, with its rivers involving exploration, cultural clashes, dishes include the popular juane, a leaf- Unsurprisingly, Amazon markets like and jungles supplying an amazing array rubber booms and illegal activities. wrapped parcel of spiced rice the one in Belen are also brimming with of fruit, fish and meat. Further to the west, as the jungle containing meat (normally chicken), fish, some fresh and others salted and Take a stroll through any traditional begins to rise into the foothills of the olives and a hard-boiled egg. Regional dried. Paiche deserves particular jungle market and you’ll soon see the Andes, lies the strip of selva alta, or versions of the standard juane include attention; the second largest fresh wealth of unfamiliar and exotic produce high jungle, with cities such as the juane de chonta (heart of palm), water fish in the world, paiche is a on offer. There are roasted ants and Moyobamba, Tarapoto and Tingo nina juane (an egg-based soupy mix) meaty and tasty fish that can reach giant freshwater fish, leaf-wrapped Maria. This upland jungle region is and avispa juane (with ground pork). lengths of up to 15 feet. The doncella oddities and a seemingly endless more suitable for agriculture, and is Bijao leaves are also used to cook is another excellent jungle selection of fruits. All of these wait to known for coffee, cacao and coca. another famous jungle dish called catch. If you think ceviche is only worth be discovered by adventurous travelers Some classic dishes are found patarashca, which normally consists of ordering on the coast of Peru, the who venture into this fascinating part throughout the Peruvian Amazon, none fish wrapped in a bijao leaf and cooked paiche and doncella ceviches in Iquitos of Peru. more emblematic than tacacho con over charcoal. Patarashcas are also might make you think again. The Peruvian Amazon has never been cecina. The flat, reddish slabs of cecina made using meats as varied as shrimp, As for the fruits of the Peruvian an easy place to settle or to live. By the -- a type of dried and cured pork -- are mountain paca (a jungle rodent) and Amazon, well, the list goes on and on. late-1400s, the Inca Empire controlled a served with balls of tacacho, made jungle grubs. There’s camu camu with its huge swathe of territory along the from mashed green plantain flavored Like ants, these fat grubs, known as exceptionally high content. Andean range and the Pacific coast to with pork fat. This classic combination suri, are standard snacks in the Then there’s aguaje, a fruit supposed to the west. East of the Andes, however, is sold in both upscale restaurants and Amazon. You can find both -- alive or help renew and reshape the female was a different challenge entirely. With simple street grills, often with very little roasted -- in traditional jungle markets. body. Other fruits include guarana, the exception of a few brave explorers, difference apart from the price. Most The vast Belen Market in Iquitos is one huasaí (açaí), cocona, arazá and the Incas rarely tried to penetrate the grills in the jungle also sell Peruvian- of the largest and most interesting in carambola (star fruit), some of which depths of the Amazon, a land they saw style chorizo sausage -- and chicken Peru. The sights, sounds and smells of have reached the global market, while as unruly and savage. They traded with feet. In cities like Tarapoto, you can pull Belen are ever changing as you wind others remain largely unknown outside jungle tribes -- and sometimes used up a seat at the grill, order a beer from your way through the maze of stalls, the Amazon basin. See pages 116 and their archers in battle -- but permanent the bodega next door, and sit and the light shifting beneath the colorful 117 for a guide to tropical fruit. Inca settlements in the selva baja, or watch the mototaxis stream by as you tarpaulins. Here you’ll find jungle low jungle, were rare. eat tacacho, the smells of the grill aphrodisiacs and potions for every Today, three major cities lie in the selva drifting down the road along with the possible affliction for sale. Other

104 105 salads make this a good place to get a Amazon Culinary Listings - Iquitos bite and converse with other travelers. Vegetarian options as well. Experiences Calle Napo 138 (065) 600-576 RESTAURANTS Daily 12.30pm-12.30am “APPETIZING AMAZON” © - AL FRIO Y AL FUEGO PERUVIAN - $$$ COCKTAIL DEMONSTRATION AND FITZCARRALDOVIAGOURMET - $$ While the food is great and offers a AMAZONIAN MEAL IN LIMA Fitzcarraldo via Gourmet is a local wide variety of traditional favorites, classic. Offering a view of the Enjoy an exotic culinary experience at what really makes this restaurant boardwalk and excellent fresh Amazon ámaZ restaurant in Lima. The Amazon stand out is its location on its own dishes, it is well worth a visit. Rainforest is one of the natural floating platform in the river which wonders of the world, containing 10% diners are transported to and from by Av. Napo 100, Iquitos (Next to the Boulevard) of the world’s biodiversity. Not only is the restaurant’s own boat. Also the wildlife diverse, but the people features a pool where you can enjoy a (065) 236-536 inhabiting the rainforest are as well. refreshing cocktail and take a quick There are over 50 ethnic groups in the dip to cool off. Peruvian Amazon, the second largest GRANMALOCAAMAZON - $$ expanse of tropical forest in the world, Av La Marina N 134-B, Iquitos and each of these groups has their 965-607-474 With an airy, inviting design and fine dining options straight from the nearby own way of incorporating the rich Monday to Saturday 12pm-11pm; products of the rainforest into their Sundays 12pm-5.30pm Amazon, Gran Maloca has much to offer. cuisine. Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino www.alfrioyalfuego.com has taken it upon himself to connect Sargento Lores 170, Iquitos - Loreto with these people and conceptualize AMAZONBISTROFRENCH - $$ Monday to Wednesday, 12pm-4pm, their Amazon cuisine, which he 7pm-11pm; Thursday to Sunday, 12pm- showcases in his popular Miraflores There are plenty of reasons to stop by 11pm restaurant, ámaZ. here, not the least of which is the Upon arrival, you will take a seat at the setting in a restored mansion from the LUXURY CRUISES bar where the bartender will skillfully heyday of the rubber boom and the prepare two colorful cocktails as he fact that it’s open to the wee hours. DELFIN But the food is fab as well and ranges elaborates on the diverse ingredients AMAZON CRUISES GOURMET - $$$ and preparation of the drinks.Learn from light bistro fare to full-on dinners about the exotic fruits from the such as chateaubriand. There’s no doubt that one of the best Amazon, such as tumbo (banana Malecón Tarapacá 268, Iquitos ways to experience the Amazon is by passion fruit), camu camu and boat. With Delfin Amazon cruises, that (065) 600-785 once in a lifetime experience will only carambola (star fruit). To accompany Monday to Thursday 6am-1am; Fridays your cocktails, you will be treated to a be enhanced by the quality of the and Saturdays 6am-2am; Sundays 8am- gourmet cuisine using the freshest few delectable appetizers before 3am sitting down at your table to enjoy an local ingredients available. Av. Abelardo Quiñones Km. 5, Nauta exceptional meal prepared with the KARMACAFECAFE - $$ varied and sumptuous products that A funky laid-back atmosphere and a (065) 262-721 / (065) 262-713 that the Amazon has to offer. mix of international fare and stand-bys Monday to Friday 8.15am-5.30pm such as sandwiches, burgers and www.delfinamazoncruises.com

106 107 AQUAEXPEDITIONSGOURMET - $$$ BURGOS’S RESTAURANTEPERUVIAN - $ Aqua Expeditions’ dining experience Great choice for trying local style goes above and beyond any cuisine. Known for its huge portions afficianado of gourmet cuisine with and large variety of vegetarian options. menus developed by their world Av. 26 de Diciembre 195 famous executive chef, Pedro Miguel (082) 502–373 Schiaffino. Daily 10am-10pm U.S. & : +1 866 603 3687 www.aquaexpeditions.com LASEMILLACAFE - $ La Semilla’s colorful, casual BELÉNMARKET.MARKET atmosphere includes an open-air Always noisy, colorful and full of life, terrace and cozy seating. Enjoy local, Belén market is a fabulous place not organic dishes with vegan friendly only to see all the local produce that offerings. the jungle has to offer but also to get a Jr. Arequipa 281, Puerto Maldonado feel for daily life here. It can be a place for pickpockets, however, so stow your (082) 350676 money away carefully. Best in the early Monday to Friday 9am-2.30pm; 5pm- morning from around 7am 10pm; Saturdays 9am-10pm On the river, a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas, Iquitos. Daily from 7am Listings - Puerto Maldonado GUSTITOS DELCURACAFE / ICE CREAM - $ Whether you go for a yummy light meal or the delicious dessert options, you’ll be happy to know that the profits go to support a home for children who are at-risk. Loreto 258, Plaza de Armas (082) 571-055 Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursday to Sunday 11am-10pm

Tropical fruit selection onboard Delfin Amazon Cruises

108 109 RESOURCES

Crafting a fishing net

110 111 Ice Cubes – hielo Words and Phrases to Knife – cuchillo Lunch – almuerzo Know Main dish – plato principal or fondo Milk –leche A table for (1, 2, 3, 4) please – Una Napkin – servilleta mesa para (uno/dos/tres/cuatro) por Pepper – pimienta (pimienta negra – favor ) Another, please – otro, por favor Rice – arroz Enjoy your meal –Buen provecho! Pork – cerdo I like my steak rare – Quisiera la carne Room temperature – al tiempo casi cruda / a la inglesa Salad – ensalada Medium –termino medio Salt – sal Well done – bien cocido Soup – sopa Is the tip included – Incluye la propina? Spicy –picante (aji/rocoto – spicy It’s delicious – Esta rico! peppers) Please – por favor Spoon – cuchara That’s all – Eso es todo. Sugar – azucar The menu, please –La carta, por favor Table – mesa The check, please – La cuenta, por Tea - té favor Tip - propina The wine list, please –La carta de vinos Vegan - vegano / la lista de vinos, por favor Vegetables -verduras To get the waiter’s attention –Señor! Vegetarian - vegetariano To get the waitress’ attention – Wine - Vino (Bottle - Botella, glass - Señorita! Señora! Copa) To your health, cheers – Salud! Where is the bathroom? –¿Donde estan los servicios? Cooking Terms Appetizer –Entrada Beef –Carne Grilled –A la parrilla Beer –Cerveza Roasted - Al horno Bread - Pan Skewers -Brocheta Breakfast – Desayuno Deep fried –Chactado Butter –mantequilla Battered and deep fried - Chicharron de Chair – silla Fried – Frito Cheese – queso Breaded and fried – Milanesa Chicken –pollo Stuffed –Relleno Coffee – café Cold (as in cold drink) – helado Cutlery –Cubiertos Dessert – postre Dinner –Cena Drink –bebida Fork –tenedor

112 113 Camu Camu – Only found in Peru and Guide to Tropical Fruit Brazil, this superfruit is said to have extraordinarily high vitamin C content Blessed with extreme biodiversity and and tastes like a combination of sour the three vastly different climate zones cherry and lime. It is best enjoyed in of the coast, highlands, and jungle, juices, cocktails, and even used for Peru is home to a myriad of fruits, some natural medicines. some native, others exotic and rarely known in other regions of the world. A Chirimoya – Also native to the Andes visit to any Peruvian market is the and grown in higher altitude locations perfect opportunity to see and try some throughout Peru, the chirimoya, or of these special and unique fruits, and custard apple, has delicious, creamy below is a guide to a few of our must- sherbet-like flesh – so tasty that even taste favorites. Mark Twain penned it “the most delicious fruit known to man.” Try this A variety of fruit Aguaje – Native to the Amazon regions one on its own and slightly chilled or as for sale at Surquillo of Peru, these palm fruits have a scaly, an ice cream. market in Lima purplish and peelable skin that gives way to slightly acidic yellow pulp. Granadilla – Perfectly round, the size of a tennis ball, this sweet passion fruit Aguaymanto – Often mistaken for a has a hard, cantaloupe-colored outer Pepino – Sometimes called a “tree found exported to the US and gooseberry, this sweet and tangy fruit shell with a pouch filled with pulp and melon” and another native fruit of the elsewhere. Other fruits to look for are has its roots in the Andes and is seeds much like tumbo. You can eat Andes belonging to the potato/ copoazú, guanabana (soursop) and actually part of the potato/tomato both the pulp and the seeds straight up family, this unique fruit tastes like a carambola (star fruit) family. A powerful antioxidant, it is or perhaps enjoy it in juice, ice cream, blend of cucumber and honeydew and perfect for sauces over fish or meat. or jams. is certainly worth tasting. As in any case, many of these fruits are seasonal so depending on what time of Lucuma – Definitely a favorite Tumbo – Also known as “banana year you are visiting, you may throughout Peru and found on many passion fruit” because of its exterior encounter slightly different flavor dessert menus paired with chocolate. resemblance to a banana, open up this profiles or a varied selection. This creamy subtropical fruit is native fruit to reveal a cluster of pulp sacs to the country and was even featured with black seeds. Found typically in the on Moche ceramics in famous burial Andean valleys of Peru, tumbo is very sites. The fruit is a meaty orange color sour and therefore, most enjoyed in with thin brown peel and is generally juices perhaps mixed with a little sugar. consumed in cakes, sweets, ice-cream or milkshakes. Tuna - a cactus fruit, with a thick peel and green (also found in yellow and Maracuya – Passion fruit, in the same pink) grainy interior similar to a prickly family as granadilla, distinguished by its pear. tart flavor. The refreshing sourness and its natural sweetness make for a perfect Also not to be overlooked are some of juice. For a lip-puckering and refreshing the more familiar fruits like mango and beverage, try a jugo surtido (mixed juice) palta (avocado), whose intense flavor of maracuya and pineapple. and textures are unmatchable by those

114 115 more calcium than rice and wheat are made requesting mother earth value of milk. It is cultivated in Andean Guide to Ingredients respectively, and 1 ½ times more “Pacha mama” and the holy mountains valleys between 2500 and 4000m. Its protein than those two traditional or “Apus” for well being and abundance. blossom is pink. It is eaten in salads, grains. soups, stews, pastries, breakfast NATIVE CROPS OF THE ANDES Kiwicha - Cultivated throughout the and pancakes. In some cases, especially with the Many of these foodstuffs are found in Andean valleys between altitudes of potato, these crops have become contemporary Andean cuisine. Quinoa 1500 and 3500m, its blossom is a very Yacón - Naturally sweetened by staples worldwide, since the time has recently become a wildly-popular bright and intense pink. It is very fructoligosaccharides, which are not Europeans came across them in the health food worldwide due to its nutritious and widely eaten as a metabolized by the body, this is a 1500s. Other plants in the list are little- remarkable properties. breakfast , power bars and in magical crop for diabetics. The roots are known internationally and even in stews and savory dishes. eaten raw or can be dried and made into modern Peru, as they were until Choclo - Andean corn, or maize. White, chips or prepared as pickles. Leaves are recently considered food for native big and with kernels possibly three Mashua- Very high yielding tuber (up to used as tea, reputed to reduce blood peoples. They have, however, been times the size of North American 70 tons/hectare). Contains natural sugar and cholesterol levels. consumed consistently by the native yellow corn. and is often planted with population of the Andes since time other crops to protect fields from pest. Yuca - Cassava. Often deep fried and immemorial. It is important to note that Coca - Coca has been widely consumed Sometimes used as medicine for kidney served alongside seafood dishes, or as many of these plants (with the in the Andes since time immemorial. Its ailments and as a diuretic. a snack to be dipped in yellow chilli exception of coca) can be grown up to uses are many: to provide energy, to sauce. 4500m. They are very resistant to soothe altitude sickness, to improve Mauka - Ancient crop rediscovered by KEY HERBS AND SPICES adverse climate, and grow in areas digestion are some examples. It is scientists in the 1960s. Produces where most conventional crops would consumed as an infusion and also raw, succulent edible stems and tasty roots Aji - Peruvian chilli, which is ubiquitous fail. Quinoa and kiwicha are noteworthy several leaves made into a small ball high in and . across the country and used as they are some of the most nutritious are chewed for hours. It is still widely Boiled, baked or eaten in soups, stews extensively in Peruvian cuisine. The grains in the world! Quinoa and Kiwicha used for mystical ceremonies of or desserts. Its foliage is high in protein, most common type is aji amarillo have approximately 3 times and 1 ½ “payments to the earth” where offerings it therefore makes good fodder. (yellow chilli), which is a milder variety with a distinct flavor. Aji Panca is a Oca - A major staple in pre-Columbian darker chilli with a fruitier, smokier times, mainly eaten boiled in soups and taste. Rocoto - which is often mistaken Different stews. Very high yielding (up to 55 tons/ for a red - is extremely hot, varieties of hectare) High in starch, and while the multicolored aji limo is also to quinoa grain organic acids (including soluble be approached with caution. Each oxalates), hence slightly acidic in taste. restaurant has its own version of aji sauce, which varies from mild and Olluco - twisted, yellow and pink tuber creamy to fiery hot! only found in the Andes. Traditionally eaten with minced meat and rice. Huacatay - Native to Peru and a member of the marigold family, this Papa amarilla - a small, bright yellow herb has a stong and curious flavor that potato with texture of egg yolk. is not dissimilar to a mixture of mint, basil and tarragon. Known as “Peruvian Quinoa - This is also known as the Black Mint”, it is used widely in Andean “Golden Grain of the Andes”. A half cup cuisine, and is often made into a dark of boiled Quinoa provides more protein green sauce to accompany a than a good steak and the nutritional Pachamanca.

116 117 Muña ACHIOTE (BIXA ORELLANA) Guide to Medicinal regions of Peru, where it is popularly Achiote is a small tree that grows in the served as herbal tea alongside mate de Plants Amazon and the coast below 1400 coca. It has high levels of calcium and meters elevation and has been phosphorous, which makes it good for For thousands of years people of the cultivated since pre-Columbian times in teeth and bones, preventing Andes and the Amazon have relied on Peru. The seeds and powder from the osteoporosis. Muña also aids digestion herbal medicines to treat common plant are good for digestion and have and stomach pains and can treat ailments like headaches, infections also been used to treat asthma and as intestinal infections and inflammation. and inflammations. Today, along with antimalarial medicine. The fruits and modern medicine, people continue seeds can be consumed in a tea utilizing the same plants with these infusion that is often taken to control MACA (LEPIDIUM MEYENII) positive health benefits. Many of headaches. The leaves have anti- Maca is a root that is sometimes these medicinal plants are native to inflammatory and antibacterial referred to as Peruvian ginseng the Amazon and the Andes of Peru, properties which can prevent prostatitis because of its similar medicinal and for anyone interested in herbal that could later lead to prostate cancer. properties and benefits, though it is not remedies, you can visit local The crushed leaves can be used for the of the gingseng family. It grows at high communities in either region, where alleviation of respiratory problems, altitudes of the Andes and has been you could do a trek with locals or visit throat infections, fever, dermatitis, skin cultivated by the Andean people for a shaman, a spiritual counselor, to infections , diarrhea and vomiting, and thousands of years. learn more about these plants and conjunctivitis. Maca has energizing and invigorating their medicinal properties. Below are qualities and can be used to treat eight medicinal plants that are well- symptoms associated with anemia, known and widely used in Peru. SACHA INCHI (PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS) depression and chronic fatigue Sacha Inchi, which in Quechua means syndrome, though it is most commonly wild peanut, is a tree that grows in the touted for its aphrodisiac qualities as it UÑA DE GATO (UNCARIA TOMENTOSA) Amazon of Peru. The seed of the plant boosts fertility and libido in both men Uña de gato translates to Cat’s Claw is eaten raw like a nut or in the form of and women. Like ginseng, it is also and is an herb that grows in the extra virgin oil. It is known for its known to improve memory and Amazon of Peru. Its common name incredibly high levels of Omega 3, 6 and cognitive function. refers to the curved thorns of this 9 fatty acids—even more than . It You can use the maca root to brew woody vine that look like claws. The also contains A and E and drinks or it can be ground into a powder inner bark and root have been used amino acids. The health benefits of that you can mix into smoothies or for centuries in Peru because they Sachi Inchi are numerous, including food. The root can also be baked or contain high levels of alkaloids that blood pressure regulation, prevention roasted and eaten with other food. activate the immune system, reduce of certain types of cancer, hormonal inflammation, protect against tumor balance, alleviation of cardiovascular growth and carcinogens and prevent problems and the reduction of bad COCA (ERYTHROXYLUM COCA) gene mutations. It is also used for cholesterol. The coca plant has played an important many gastrointestinal problems and role in the religion of the pre-Inca and has antiviral properties that can stop Inca culture in Peru and the Andes and the spread of viruses. Uña de gato MUÑA (MINTHOSTACHYS MOLLIS) continues to be used today in sacred can be brewed as a drink or is often Muña has a pleasant flavor often rituals by the Andean people. Apart taken in the form of capsules or an compared to mint. You can easily find from its religious uses, coca leaves extract in daily doses. muña growing in several Andean have fourteen alkaloids whose benefits

118 119 include improved cognitive function, the body’s natural healing and scarring Drying aromatic suppression of thirst and , process. Sangre de Grado is frequently and medicinal improved digestion, and increased used as an antidiarrheal for cholera and herbs for teas energy and endurance. It also helps traveler’s diarrhoea. It has also been blood oxidation, which facilitates used to treat insect bites, open wounds, breathing at high altitudes and broken bones, infections, fever and constricts blood vessels to slow and ulcers, though its medicinal properties stop bleeding. It is an extremely high are still being studied. source of calcium, promoting strong The sap can be applied directly to the teeth and bones. Mate de coca is a tea skin or the extract of SP-303 can be made with coca leaves that is widely ingested as a pill. The proper dosage is consumed in the Andes and offered to an important factor when taking Sangre help altitude sickness, though the most de Grado or any other herbal medicine. effective way to experience these benefits is by chewing the leaves.

AYAHUASCA (BANISTERIOPSIS CAAPI) Though ayahuasca has received negative media attention and the misleading label of “hallucinogen”, the plant native to the lower Amazon of Peru has been used in sacred ceremonies led by shamans for centuries. The shaman prepares a drink using the Ayahuasca vine that, when ingested, can cause visions and a feeling of spiritual lucidity. It is not a plant that should be used without the correct guidance as it is supposed to heal emotional wounds and increase spirituality. It has been used to rehabilitate people with addiction and depression.

SANGRE DE GRADO (CROTON LECHLERI) Sangre de Grado, known as Dragon’s Blood for its dark red sap, is a plant that grows between 1200 and 3000 meters in the Amazon of Peru. The sap contains a chemical called SP-303, which has anti-inflammatory, antiviral and digestive properties and also aids

120 121 About Aracari Travel PHOTO CREDITS: Marcella Echavarria, Pedro Chincoa, Accredited by varrious world renowned Erick Andía, Prom Peru Photo Library travel publications, Marisol Mosquera (Manchamantales, Enrique Castro- has built a reputation for her unique Mendívil, Flor Ruiz, Yayo López, José approach to travel in Peru and South Cáceres, Gihan Tubbeh, America since she founded Aracari in Renzo Tasso, Juan Puelles, Sebastian 1996. Castañeda, Musuk Nolte, Richard Her endeavor since founding the Hirano.) company has been unprecedented in that she has cast a discerning eye over CULINARY TRAVEL WITH ARACARI the region’s highlights, attractions and Aracari is the leading designer of accommodation while forging a culinary itineraries in Peru. Not only is network of prominent historians, their team of travel experts well archaeologists, artists and dignitaries positioned for recommending the best in the cities and destinations that are dining options to guests based on of interest to travelers. experience and insider tips on cutting After almost two decades, Marisol edge restaurants, but they design and her Peru-based team utilize this experiences that showcase the finest specialist expertise to make unique elements of the country’s gastronomy experiences available to a and connect travelers with top distinguished clientele, offering an personalities in the world of Peruvian authentic glance into history, art and cuisine. culture that would otherwise be simply Possible tours include scouring a unobtainable. sprawling market for fresh produce before preparing a traditional recipe with a star chef, visiting an organic Contributors farm and enjoying a meal made from the farms’ produce, or simply indulging Maria Julia Raffo, Yris Zagaceta, in a sample tasting menu or cocktail Alberto Wirz Revoredo, Claire Hannum, demonstration at one of the best Simon Ross-Gill restaurants in Lima. All of the experiences detailed in this book are available through Aracari. ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS For enquiries about Peru cuisine trips TO THE 2015 EDITION please contact [email protected]. “CULINARY TRAVEL IN PERU”

Maria Julia Raffo, Adriana von Hagen, Maureen Santucci, Tony Dunnell, James Imbriani, Lauren Wright, Diana Bauza, Bianca Crousillat, Simon Ross- Gill.

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