THE PERU FOOD GUIDE CULINARY TRAVEL & EXPERIENCES: PACIFIC, ANDES & AMAZON 2ND EDITION 1 THE PERU FOOD GUIDE CULINARY TRAVEL & EXPERIENCES: PACIFIC, ANDES & AMAZON 2nd Edition Copyright © 2019 Aracari Travel Jr. Schell 237 # 602 - MIRAFLORES - LIMA – PERU T: +511 651 2424 Layout & design by Simon Ross-Gill - www.rgsimey.scot Front cover photo by Marcella Echavarria The Peru Food Guide: Culinary Travel & Experiences: Pacific, Andes & Amazon Table of Contents First a bit of history 6 About The Peru Food Guide 7 Regional Styles 8 Dishes to Try10 Desserts to Try13 Beverages to Try 15 Fun Food Facts 16 Need To Know 18 Lima 22 CulinaryExperiences24 Listings-Lima 28 Cusco & The Highlands 54 CulinaryExperiences56 Listings-Cusco62 Listings-TheSacredValley74 Listings-MachuPicchu77 TheNorthCoast 80 Listings-Trujillo82 Listings-Huanchaco83 Listings-Chiclayo84 Listings-Mancora85 Listings-Piura 86 Listings-Tumbes 87 Arequipa & the South Coast 90 Pisco-TheSpiritofPeru92 Experiences-SouthCoast93 Listings-Arequipa95 Listings-TheSouthCoast99 The Amazon 104 Listings-Iquitos 107 Listings-PuertoMaldonado108 Words and Phrases to Know 112 Cooking Terms 112 Guide to Tropical Fruit 114 Guide to Ingredients 116 Guide to Medicinal Plants 118 About Aracari Travel 122 Contributors 122 Avocados for sale at the market in Lima 4 5 spices such as cinnamon and cloves. First a bit of history More recently, Chinese immigrants researching and updating our top fused their influences withcriollo About recommended restaurants, cafes, From a food perspective we must be cooking to create a range of dishes pop-up eateries and other food and one of the luckiest countries on Earth. classified as Chifa, which combined The Peru Food Guide drink experiences across the country Exotic fruits and delicate river fish from Chinese techniques such as stir fry to update the 2015 edition for 2019, the Amazon; seemingly endless with Peruvian ingredients. Descended Over the last decade Peru has the first ever comprehensive guide to varieties of pulses, tubers and root from Japanese settlers, the Nikkei style established itself as an equal among Peruvian culinary travel. plants from the Andean heartlands, and has most notably entailed mastering the world’s gastronomic superpowers, This guide is organized according to succulent shellfish plucked straight the preparation of fresh raw fish. Other becoming world-renowned for its Peru’s highly distinct cultural regions: from the cold water of the south influences range from as far afield as proud history of culinary traditions Lima, the highlands, the north and Pacific, all come together in the Africa and other countries in Europe whose richness and diversity are south coasts, and the Amazon. Along country’s countless restaurants to and Latin America. unparalleled virtually anywhere on the with an introduction to each region’s produce one of the world’s most divine Internal migration has also helped to globe. culinary histories and traditions, you’ll cuisines. make the capital city Lima the At Aracari we have witnessed at first find full listings of our most highly But it’s not all just down to the gastronomic center that it is today. hand Peru’s explosive arrival on the recommended restaurants plus a ingredients. Our traditions have been Many regional styles from around the world food and drink stage. There has range of culinary experiences in each shaped by a multitude of cultural country were transported to the city been an insatiable surge of interest in destination. If you don’t find an influences too. The first civilizations in during the last few decades as millions Peruvian cuisine over the last few establishment listed in this guide, then the Americas on the Peruvian coast of people moved to Lima in search of years to which we’ve been happy to we don’t recommend it. developed many techniques of work, producing a cauldron of respond, developing unique culinary One of the things we love most about harnessing the bounties of the ocean, innovation and cultural cross- experiences and diligently researching Peruvian food, and therefore all the as well as trading with people from the pollination. the finest and most exciting dining places listed in the following pages, is jungle and sierra to acquire Modern cuisine has been shaped by the opportunities across the country. its tradition of “popular cookery” - supplementary flavors. Later, as recent refinement of culinary technique, This is no small task. The revolution in food created by the people, for the civilization flourished in the Andes, ever particularly in Lima. The establishment Peruvian cuisine remains young and people. There is nothing exclusive or more inventive agricultural systems of chef schools such as Le Cordon Bleu incredibly dynamic, with new fancy about Peru’s culinary traditions, evolved. The Incas, in particular, were is producing a young generation of restaurants constantly emerging and and although the country’s many masters of successfully managing food chefs and culinary experts and they are vying for attention. Keeping on top of world-class fine dining chefs have production and distribution throughout surprising local and foreign the trends is a challenge even for our developed the concepts with great their empire. connoisseurs alike by applying new team of experts working night and day results, some of the most rewarding Since the Spanish conquest, several techniques and presenting dishes in to find the best experiences the experiences (for those with a stronger waves of immigrants have infused our ever more innovative ways. country can offer. For the visitor, stomach) are to be found in the cuisine with new flavors, ingredients The result of Peru’s unique navigating Peru’s culinary landscape markets and backstreet eateries that and styles to create unique combination of history, geography and on a brief vacation, it can be almost only the locals know about. The best combinations and to characterize the climate is a modern gastronomic overwhelming. are included in this guide. criollo style of cuisine (or Peruvian culture that is growing in reputation Hence the guide that you’re reading All that’s left to say is: Buen provecho! “creole” food) that embodies the best across the world. And with its beauty, right now. Our team has spent months known dishes today - all long before diversity and true essence derived from “fusion cuisine” became a popular the freshness and locality of the term. ingredients, there is no better place to While the Spaniards brought sample Peruvian cuisine than in the Mediterranean olives and citrus, they country itself. Scallops with also introduced Moorish influences Welcome to Peru, a land full of flavor. parmesan at ámaZ such as frying techniques and new restaurant in Lima 6 7 of influences from the original alpaca and guinea pig, called cuy. hours inland, the city of Arequipa has Regional Styles indigenous Peruvians, Spanish Alpaca is delicious and low in distinct criollo food consisting of large conquerors, and African slaves. cholesterol and fat – think of it as a quantities of meat, potatoes, rocoto Peru is getting more and more press Peruvians throughout the country enjoy lighter, healthier beef. An alpaca steak chilli peppers and corn. The simple for the quality of its cuisine. Although spicy (picante) food and Limeños will with a local sauce, such as one of and original fare is showcased at the the gastronomic publicity tends to rarely eat a meal without spice.. The sauco (elderberry), is quite a treat. city’s various picanterias. focus on the capital, Lima, culinary dish itself may not be prepared that adventures await the traveler wherever way, but if a spicy sauce (aji) or fresh AREQUIPA AND THE SOUTH COAST they go in this country. spicy salsa (rocoto) is not served, it will It’s not surprising, really. The diverse surely be asked for. The southern coast of Peru is best geographical regions that Peru is known for the production of pisco. known for has led to varied plant and THEAMAZONRAINFOREST There are many distilleries and animal life which in turn has led to, not vineyards around the town of Ica, and surprisingly, just as much diversity in As with elsewhere in Peru, the cuisine a handful are worth visiting. About two the cuisine. Each region has its own in the Amazon is mostly about using specialties and, while you can find local ingredients. Not surprisingly, fish them elsewhere in the country, there’s is a staple of the diet here so if you’re a nothing like trying a dish in the place seafood lover, you can try some of the that gave birth to it. freshwater varieties such as paiche or even piranha. NORTHCOAST Fruit is also a common addition to meals, particularly the banana which Being a coastal region, this area is will often be fried and served with the MANCORA IQUITOS especially known for the freshness and main dish. You also might want to try deliciousness of its seafood. Many the juanes, which is a dish of chicken consider the region to offer some of and rice and local spices wrapped and the best cooking in Peru overall. One of cooked inside leaves. Like many dishes PIURA the signature dishes of this area which here, it will typically come not only with can be found elsewhere but should the ubiquitous fried bananas but also CHICLAYO definitely be tried here if you’re in the with yuca (or cassava) root. area is Arroz con Pato orcon Pollo TRUJILLO (Rice with duck or chicken). Although CUSCOANDTHEHIGHLANDS the dish is as simple as it sounds, the seasoning is heavenly and, if the duck The highlands tend to be colder and, or chicken is cooked properly, it’s therefore, meals tend to be hearty. If PUERTO MALDONADO fabulous. you happen to go to a small, local LIMA restaurant for lunch, one that has a set LIMA menu, you might be shocked to find that pretty much every main course is PARACAS / ICA / NAZCA CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY While the top restaurants in Lima tend served with rice and potatoes.