The Insiders' Guide

Discover the best of Peru’s Andean treks, ancient cultures, and jungle adventures with our local insiders. Contents Overview

Contents The CoastThe

Overview 3 Making the most of 30 Top 10 experiences in Peru 3 Alternatives to the Inca Trail 32 Climate and weather 5 The Cordilleras 34 Where to stay 6 The Central Sierra 36 Getting around 8 Arequipa and the canyons 38 Highlands The Peruvian cuisine 10 Lake Titicaca 40 Cultural highlights 11 Language and phrases 13 The Amazon 42 Responsible tourism 14 Exploring the selva 43 Travel safety and scams 15 Visa and vaccinations 17 Adventure 45 Amazon The Hiking and trekking 46 The Coast 18 Surfing 48 48 hours in 19 Rafting and kayaking 49 Trujillo and the north 21 Ica and the south 23 Essential insurance tips 51 Our contributors 53 Adventure The Highlands 25 See our other guides 53 48 hours in 26 Need an insurance quote? 54 Day trips from Cusco 28

2 Welcome! Equador Whether you’re pondering the mysteries of an advanced ancient Iquitos culture, trekking amid the ’ highest peaks, watching monkeys bound through the jungle, or Chiclayo Brazil

surfing a mile-long break, this Contents Trujillo diverse country never fails to Pucallpa amaze and inspire. Huanuco

LIMA Machu Picchu

Cusco Overview Our Insiders' Picks Ica Puno of the Top 10 Arequipa Lake Experiences in Peru Titicaca

Sample Peru’s world-class cuisine CoastThe From classics like ceviche, to modern citadel of , which gets just takes on traditional dishes, to tasty a handful of visitors each day. Or ride fusions like Chifa (Chinese-Peruvian the newly opened cable car to Kuelap, cuisine), Peru’s food scene is one of the a vast fortification perched in the cloud world’s best. forest of northern Peru. Highlands The

Discover Peru’s other Skim down a sand dune “Lost Cities” Adrenaline junkies should head to the Avoid the crowds at Machu Picchu and mirage-like town of Huacachina, Peru’s take a four-day trek to the mysterious ultimate sandboarding destination, with slopes up to 1,968ft (600m) long. Amazon The If you’re not a boarder, the dune buggy rides are just as exhilarating.

Watch for pink dolphins in the Amazon With dense rainforest along its whole Adventure eastern border, Peru is a wildlife lover’s dream, home to monkeys, otters, exotic birds, and even jaguars. But only Pink river dolphin the Iquitos region lets you explore

3 the Amazon River itself, and see rare creatures like the pink freshwater If your idea dolphin. of heaven is an endless Surf the world’s longest wave, rideable left-hander Chicama, on If your idea of heaven is an endless wave, the central- Chicama, on the central-north coast, is north coast, Contents blessed with a cold-water break that is blessed you can often ride for more than a mile with a cold- Scissors Dance performer (1.6km). water break that you can Go on an epic rafting Peru, there always seems to be some often ride adventure kind of colorful celebration going on. Overview for more Navigate the challenging Class IV and V But with two full weeks of dancing, than a mile. rapids of Cotahuasi Canyon, the world’s music, parades, and fireworks, Puno’s deepest. Or drift through the wildlife- extravagant Fiesta de la Virgen de la rich Tambopata Reserve in Peru’s Candelaria tops them all. southern selva and camp out in the The CoastThe jungle. Taste Pisco at ’s oldest vineyard Vamos de fiesta in Puno Pisco, a grape-based brandy, is Peru’s In cities, towns, and villages across national spirit. There’s no better place for an introduction than historic Hacienda Bodega Tacama, where the Highlands The vineyards are still irrigated by a canal built by the Incas in the 15th century.

Trek to a sacred mountain In , an apu was a powerful mountain spirit – many of Amazon The Peru’s highest and most iconic peaks are apus, including , Salkantay, and of course, Machu Picchu itself.

Kayak at the top of the world Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest Adventure navigable lake – a paddle on its sapphire- blue waters is a magical experience (and you’ll be able to see what those White-water rafting legendary floating islands are all about).

4 Climate and Weather Peru has a varied landscape, with high mountains along its spine, a long coastline to the west, and rainforest to the east. The weather and climate can Contents change drastically depending on where you are in the country. Huacachina at night

Best seasons for outdoor to mid-March, during the Peruvian adventures “summer.” Try to avoid hiking in the Overview The best The Peruvian winter is from May to time to visit highlands during this time as flash floods September. This is the ideal time to the jungle is and burst river banks can create very head out on hikes and other outdoor from April to serious hazards. adventures, since these are the driest December, The Inca Trail, the traditional route months in the Andes mountains. to Machu Picchu, is closed every year

with peak CoastThe However, it’s also the peak time for times in February to prevent erosion. Machu tourism. between Picchu is open all year round, but is The exception to this is Lima, which is May and usually cloudy in the rainy season with usually foggy and gloomy between June August. poor visibility, so is best visited between and August, with low temperatures and April and October. drizzle (but well worth visiting any time of The Amazon rainforest is always Highlands The year). wet and experiences rain throughout The best time to visit the jungle is the year, but is at its wettest between from April to December, with peak December and March. Some companies times between May and August, when won’t offer camping trips during this temperatures often exceed 86°F (30°C), period. although some say that the rainy season Amazon The is best as it makes it easier to spot wildlife Low season in Peru gathering on the dry areas of land. The months from September to December to March are the warmest November and March to May tend to be months on the coast, so head to the a good time to visit Peru; it’s technically beach to explore Lima and the coastal low season but the weather is relatively reserve at Paracas, or take surf lessons in good, and fewer tourists means lower Adventure Huanchaco or Mancora. prices. However, don’t let the weather dictate Peru’s rainy season all your plans, as Peruvian weather can The rainy season is from December be variable at any time of the year.

5 Where to Stay From hostels and homestays to luxury hotels, Peru offers a wide range of accommodation, whatever your budget. Contents

Most travelers have to spend at least one night in Lima after arriving at Jorge Chavez International Airport in . The majority of hotels are in the districts of Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco. Overview Outside of Lima, you can experience everything from remote mountain huts Amazon jungle lodge to thatched-roof jungle lodges.

Traveler tips so look for signs advertising agua The CoastThe A good rule of thumb when booking caliente. Peru offers accommodation in Peru is not to Be aware that many places don't a variety make any assumptions. Double check speak English (especially outside of hostels whether you can pay with credit card of Lima and Cusco), so you need to that cater and make sure to ask about Wi-Fi. either find a place that has reviews

to different Highlands The Outside of the bigger cities, attesting to the owners speaking types of accommodation tends to be more English, be ready to fumble through guests. informal, and you might not be able to an interaction, or know at least a find a website to make a reservation. moderate amount of Spanish. In rural areas, hot water is not a given, Hostels Peru offers a variety of hostels that Amazon The cater to different types of guests. They can be a great way to meet other travelers and can help you set up tours and activities. In Lima, a bed in a shared dorm room starts at S/. 39- 47 (US $12-15) and private rooms are Adventure around S/. 114 (US $35). If you aren’t a solo traveler, sometimes a private room in a hostel is just as economical Typical cabana in an Amazon jungle lodge as a shared dorm.

6 Prices in Cusco are around S/. 26-32 (US $8-10) for a shared dorm and S/. 91 (US $28) for a private room with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find specialty hostels such as mountain huts when you are trekking in areas like Huaraz and the . Contents Hotels Farm in the Sacred Valley You can find budget hotels from S/. 81 (US $25) and up. These might be better deals than hostels if you’re traveling to get better deals if you book last in a group. Many hotels will also offer minute. However, it can be hard to an airport shuttle if you ask ahead discern exactly what you’re getting. Overview of time. If you have a little bit more Make sure you ask a lot of questions, money to spend, you can often find such as which activities are included good deals on nicer accommodation, and whether or not the guides are especially outside of Lima. English-speaking. Expect to pay around S/. 650-810 The CoastThe Homestays (US $200-250) per person for a basic Homestays are most common in rural two-to-three-night package. (S/. 3,890 areas. If you’re interested in staying or US $1,200 wouldn’t be unheard of with a local family, there are several for some of the five-star lodges). homestay options on the islands on The Highlands The Lake Titicaca and in the Sacred Valley, General Cost Guide but make sure you find a travel agency Peru is a great option for budget travelers, especially outside of big cities or operator that has you pay the and major tourist destinations. Food is both delicious and cheap – even more so if you avoid touristy restaurants in neighborhoods like Miraflores. families directly to ensure they are Set lunch, called “menu”: S/. 13-19 (US $4-6) being fairly compensated. Sit-down restaurant meal: S/. 65 (US $20)

Jungle lodges Shared dormitory: S/. 26-47 (US $8-15) Amazon The Private room in a hostel: S/. 91-114 (US $28-35) One of the highlights of Peru are the Budget hotel: S/. 81 (US $25) and up Amazon jungle lodges in destinations Jungle lodge: S/. 650-810 (US $200-250) per person for a basic two-to- like Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado. three night package These range from high-end luxury Airport taxi (Lima): S/. 50 (US $16) establishments to very rustic Airport taxi (Cusco): S/. 30 (US $9.25) accommodation. Adventure Rapid transit ride: S/. 2.50 ($0.75 US) As most of the lodges are fairly Long-haul bus, Lima to Cusco: S/. 227 (US $70) remote, most bookings will include Long-haul bus, Lima to Arequipa: S/. 130-195 (US $40-60) all meals. You’ll typically pay more if Budget domestic flight: Under S/. 324 (US $100) you book ahead of time – it’s possible

7 Getting Around Lima is usually the first stop on most travelers’ itineraries. From the Peruvian capital, you can easily travel to other major destinations such as Contents Cusco, Arequipa, and Puno by plane and long-haul bus.

Airport

When you land in Lima, the cheapest Overview and safest option if you are staying in Miraflores is to take the new airport Public transport in Lima bus, which costs S/. 26 (US $8) one way. For more than one person, it might be worth taking an official taxi for around face bumper-to-bumper traffic with The CoastThe S/. 50 (US $16), which should take unspoken rules of the road that are Taxis are between 50 minutes and 1.5 hours only known to locals. Stop signs, by far the depending on the time of day and crosswalks, and speed limits seem easiest traffic. The ten-minute taxi ride from to be mere suggestions. Outside of and most the airport in Cusco to the city center Lima, be prepared for less-than-well-

comfortable Highlands The should cost around S/. 30 (US $9.25). maintained roads, especially when you way to get get off the major highways. You also around cities. Rental cars want to avoid driving on rural roads The safest Renting a car in Peru is only for the after dark due to lack of lighting and option is very brave who are prepared to hidden potholes. to ask your hotel or The Amazon The Taxis restaurant Taxis are by far the easiest and most to call a cab comfortable way to get around cities. for you, or The safest option is to ask your hotel use an app or restaurant to call a cab for you, like , or use an app like Uber, EasyTaxi, or EasyTaxi, or Adventure TaxiBeat. TaxiBeat. If you want to take a taxi on the street, ask a local how much it should cost to go to your destination. Collectivo Negotiate the fare before you get in,

8 There is also a confusing system of vans and microbuses, called combis, that feature a guy leaning out the door, shouting various destinations. Those always entail an adventure, and might be best left to the locals.

Long-haul Contents For inter-city travel, Peru’s long-haul buses are quite comfortable and inexpensive. It’s usually worth paying an extra S/. 65 (US $20) for a “bus- cama” VIP seat, i.e. a “bus bed” that

reclines flat. But, the windy, slow- Overview going roads through the mountains can mean very long travel times Traffic in downtown Cusco despite relatively short distances. The bus ride from Lima to Cusco, as taxis are not metered. If a driver for example, is upwards of 20 hours, The CoastThe inflates the price, wave him on and while a flight takes less than two there will be another one behind hours. The trip costs approximately him waiting for your fare. There is no S/. 227 (US $70). Lima to Arequipa expectation to tip. takes 17 hours and costs S/. 130-195 (US $40-60). Public transportation in Lima Highlands The Lima has a well-maintained rapid Internal flights transit bus system, the , For those short on time, it’s usually which runs north and south between worth it to splurge a bit for internal the city’s main districts. You first need flights. LATAM is the main national to buy a travel card for S/. 4.5 (US airline, but travelers should beware $1.40), which you can then top up at all that it often advertises cut-rate prices Amazon The Metropolitano bus stations. A single for Peruvian residents. As a foreigner ride should cost S/. 2.50 (US $0.75). without a residence permit, you’d There are regular and express buses, need to pay an extra S/. 243 (US $75) so make sure your bus stops at the each way if you accidently book a station you need. Note that the red resident fare. seats are reserved for the elderly, There are several budget carriers, Adventure disabled, and pregnant. As most of such as Peruvian Airlines, LC Peru, Lima’s ten million residents use public and Star Peru, that offer reasonable transportation, avoid traveling at rush domestic flights for less than S/. 324 hour. (US $100).

9 Peruvian Cuisine The best way to start a conversation with a Peruvian is to talk about the food, of which they are understandably proud. Contents

Chef Gaston Acurio helped put Peruvian Potatoes for sale in Arequipa cuisine on the gastronomic map, but it’s the country’s biodiversity and unique onions to more creative interpretations. mix of cultural influences that really A typical side dish is papa a la huancaína make its cuisine stand out. It’s the (potatoes with huancaína sauce). And Overview Sampling Peru’s culinary spread is a country’s for the adventurous, there’s cuy, roasted little like taking a tour of the country’s biodiversity guinea pig. three main environments: mountains, and unique coast, and jungle. Peru has also had mix of Modern cuisine waves of immigrants from Spain, Africa, Lima has a fantastic restaurant scene.

cultural CoastThe and Asia, who have all made their mark influences Just one of many options, Panchita will on the country’s culinary identity. that really introduce you to classics like anticuchos, make its adobo (an Arequipan speciality), aji de What to eat in Peru cuisine stand gallina, and pachamanca. Amaz offers Peruvian food is generally hearty. Many out a modern take on jungle dishes such dishes contain meat and potatoes as tacacho and cecina (a kind of bacon). Highlands The – over 4,000 varieties grow in the To check out Gaston Acurio’s food Andes – and Peruvians don’t consider a empire, book a table at internationally- meal complete without plenty of rice. renowned Astrid & Gaston or the slightly Peruvian food is not typically spicy; many less expensive Tanta, which also has a dishes contain the flavors of aji chili and location in Arequipa. rocoto peppers, but not always the heat. Amazon The Must-try drinks Traditional dishes Don’t miss the most famous Peruvian The most common – and arguably drink – the . Or join the locals most traditional – dishes are lomo and sip a chilcano, typically made with saltado, marinated beef with onions and Pisco, lime, and ginger ale. Like wine, tomatoes, and pollo a la brasa, chicken there are enough varieties of Pisco Adventure typically roasted over a wood fire. to suit every palate and budget. For Seafood lovers will rejoice at the myriad a classic Pisco bar, check out Antigua of ceviche options, from the classic lime- Taberna Queirolo in the residential Lima juice marinated fish with aji and red neighborhood of Pueblo Libre.

10 Cultural Highlights In every region of this varied land you’ll find remnants of the past, from the secrets of ancient civilizations to some Contents of the best cultural festivals in South America.

Top archaeological destinations

Peru has preserved much of its ancient Overview history to astound visitors. If you’re fascinated by the achievements of Inti Raymi festival, Cusco centuries-old civilizations, these sites should be on your itinerary. (3,050m) in the cloud forests of northern The CoastThe Machu Picchu Peru, this fortified citadel was built by Located Long regarded as the cultural stop in the Chachapoyas people. Round houses, between the Peru, and indeed South America, the battlements, and steep staircases are provinces ancient city of Machu Picchu is almost too hidden inside the walls of this impressive of Nazca popular. In recent years, limits have been structure thought to have once been

and Palpa, Highlands The set on the number of visitors who can home to 3,000 inhabitants. this unusual explore the ruins in an effort to preserve ancient this UNESCO World Heritage site. Carajía cultural Nonetheless, it’s a magical place and one In the Utcubamba Valley, about 30mi highlight is of the world’s most iconic destinations. (50km) from Chachapoyas, Carajía is the best seen site of impressive sarcophagi. These from the air. giant coffins, standing eight feet tall, Amazon The Peru’s most ancient site is located 124mi are located above a river gorge and are (200km) from Lima in the Peruvian remarkably well preserved. desert. Covering over 1,546 acres (626 hectares), this site features - shaped structures and circular courts. At Located between the provinces of Nazca 5,000 years old it’s the oldest center of and Palpa, this unusual ancient cultural Adventure civilization in the . highlight is best seen from the air. The enormous geoglyphs were left in the Kuelap desert over an area of 193 mi2 (500 km2) Located at an elevation of 10,000ft by the Nazca civilization. The hundreds

11 Ancient Cultures of Peru Though the Incas, who built Machu Picchu, are the best known, Peru has been home to a wide range of Contents ancient civilizations and cultures: Chachapoyas Also called the “warriors of Caral the clouds,” the Chachapoyas people Overview pre-date the Incas of designs feature human and animal crucifixes, and dancing – most notably and lived in the depictions and geometric patterns the scissors dance, which used to be Amazonas Region between 900 and which were made over 1,500 years ago. performed perilously on top of church 1450 AD. bell towers! Inca Cultural festivals For a week in November, Puno is The mighty Inca The CoastThe Although much of Peru's history is the most festive place to be. Follow civilization was the found in its ancient settlements, many the procession from Lake Titicaca largest ever in the Americas and the traditional festivals are still held today as Peruvians celebrate the first Inca largest in the world and are well worth experiencing. emperor with music and dancing. at the time they Otherwise known as the “Celebration ruled. of the Sun,” Inti Raymi takes place in the Social etiquette Nazca Highlands The The Nazca people Fortress of Sacsayhuaman above Cuzco and local customs lived on the on June 24th each year. Actors recreate Peruvians are rightly proud of their southern coast the historical significance of praising culture. Drinking coca tea or chewing between 200 BC and 600 AD. They’re Inti, the sun god, and lead a procession the leaves of the coca plant is an known for those to the fortress where offerings are important tradition and not akin to mysterious lines made. recreational drug use, so speak about drawn in the desert Amazon The Ayacucho, in the south-central this practice with reverence. and for their pottery. Andes, is the setting for an annual, You’ll likely take lots of photos Chavin This civilization lived weekend-long Carnaval Ayacuchano during your trip, but it’s always polite in the northern in February/March, which features a to request permission when you have and central Andes parade of dancers and musicians in people as subjects in your pictures – a between 900 and

200 BC. They were Adventure traditional costumes marching to the tip is sometimes appreciated. amazing artists Plaza de Armas. Refusing a dinner invitation is also with a penchant for Across the country, the Fiesta de regarded as bad manners. With all the imagery of wild cats la Cruz (festival of the cross) features delicious flavors of Peruvian cuisine, this and other fanged creatures. folk music, processions with decorated is an easy custom to respect.

12 Language and phrases English is not widely spoken outside tourist areas. Luckily, the Peruvian Spanish accent is relatively easy for Spanish- Contents language beginners to understand.

Introductions and greetings Hello Hola Overview My name is… Me llamo... How are you? ¿Cómo estás? Nice to meet you Mucho gusto Locals on Taquile Good morning Buenos días Good afternoon Buenas tardes Continue Sigue The CoastThe Good night Buenas noches Where is the bathroom? ¿Donde esta el baño? Everyday travel phrases Do you speak English? ¿Habla Inglés? Ordering and shopping I would like to order… Me gustaría I don’t speak Spanish No hablo Español Highlands The Can I take your picture? ¿Le puedo pedir…. tomar una foto? How much does this cost? ¿Cuánto Can you take my picture? ¿Me puedes cuesta esto? tomar una foto? The bill, please La cuenta, por favor Please Por favor The Amazon The Excuse me Disculpe Medical and emergencies Thank you Gracias Help me! ¡Socorro! You’re welcome De nada I need a doctor Necesito un doctor I have altitude sickness Tengo soroche Basic directions I need a pharmacy Necesito una

I am lost Estoy perdido/a farmacia Adventure To the right A la derecha Where is the tourism police? ¿Dónde To the left A la izquierda está la oficina de la Policía de Turismo? Stop (verb) Pare I have an emergency Tengo una Stop (noun) Parada emergencia

13 Responsible starting to feel the wear and tear of mass tourism – over 1.4 million people Several Tourism visited this UNESCO World Heritage organizations site in 2016. Fortunately, there are Tourism is on the rise in this offer short- several lesser known but highly and long-term extraordinary Andean country. worthwhile archaeological sites in Peru volunteer Here’s how to minimize your that you don’t have to share with 2,500 opportunities impact. other visitors. and Contents One example is Choquequirao, internships in Use less plastic Peru’s second – Hiram Bingham Lima, Cusco, You can’t drink the tap water in Peru, stumbled across it in 1909, two years the Sacred but you can reduce the number of before he found Machu Picchu. But Valley, and plastic bottles you throw away by because it requires a four-day trek to the Amazon. buying water in bulk and refilling a get there and back, more people visit Overview reusable bottle. Machu Picchu in a single day than visit Choquequirao in an entire year. Only Volunteer about 30-40 percent of the site has Several organizations offer short- and been uncovered, leaving plenty of long-term volunteer opportunities and mysteries to unravel. The CoastThe internships in Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Currently, the only way to access Valley, and the Amazon. Opportunities Choquequirao is by foot, but the include teaching English and working Peruvian government has announced with conservation initiatives. Make plans to build a road and a cable car. sure the organizations work closely The most common starting point is with the local community and are the village of Cachora, a four-hour bus Highlands The responsive to local needs. ride from Cusco. To support the local economy, hire a local guide in Cachora Support local artisans rather than one in Cusco. Whenever possible, visit artisans’ Kuelap, located in region of workshops and buy directly from Amazonas near the village of Tingo, them. For ethically-sourced handcrafts, is also a great alternative to Machu Amazon The visit these shops in Barranco in Lima: Picchu. This huge fortified city was built Dédalo, Artesanos Don Bosco, and around 800 AD by the Chachapoyas Artesanias Las Pallas. In Cusco, visit culture, and is thought to be the largest the non-profit Centro de Textiles stone ruin in the New World. Just Tradicionales. You’ll pay more, but the getting here used to be quite a journey, shops ensure artisans receive a fair but flights now run from Lima to Jaen, Adventure price for their work. about four to five hours by ground transportation from Kuelap. A newly Alternatives to Machu Picchu opened cable car takes visitors up to The most famous Incan ruins are the ruins from Nuevo Tingo.

14 Safety and Scams The Peruvian government is working hard to protect tourists and is actively pursuing the criminals who target them Contents – but travelers should still be on guard against petty crime, muggings, and scams.

Crime

Peru’s penchant for petty thievery is Overview infamous. This doesn't mean you need to be forever clutching your valuables to Central Cusco at night your chest, but you should practice your street smarts. Register your passport at the embassy reported in Lima, Arequipa, and Cusco. The CoastThe in Lima (this can save you days of Avoid walking in dark, quiet areas by Credit card precious holiday time if your documents yourself, especially at night. Even if you're fraud is are lost or stolen). Don't carry more cash traveling with a group, it's a good idea to widespread than you need for the day, keep cameras take a taxi after sundown. in Peru, so packed away when not in use, and don’t Armed criminals have also been known

always keep Highlands The leave bags or purses where they can be to target foreigners while cruising in the your card in easily snatched. Amazon region. Check with your cruise sight when company or boat tour operator what making Scams their security arrangements are. Many purchases. Credit card fraud is widespread in Peru, have armed police on board their vessels so always keep your card in sight when 24/7 for the safety of passengers and making purchases. If the shop assistant staff. Amazon The is taking too long to give you a receipt, there's a good chance they’re skimming Kidnapping your card. Keep an eye on suspicious “Express kidnappings,” where travelers transactions in your bank account while are forced to extract money from various traveling and after you arrive home. ATMs, have become more frequent. In most cases, the victim is released quickly Adventure Muggings after the withdrawal limit is reached. The Sacsayhuaman ruins overlooking Having a separate traveling account you Cusco are notorious for muggings, so can top-up as needed means you won't go in a group. Muggings have also been be left penniless if this happens to you.

15 The capital, Lima, is the most accepting of LGBTQ people. Beyond that, the tourist towns of Cuzco, Arequipa, and Trujillo tend to be more tolerant than the norm. It must be noted that the rainbow flag often seen around Cuzco and the Andes is not a gay pride flag: It's the flag of the . Contents

Peru’s Tourism Police Ayahuasca preparation

Terpsichore If you are the victim of theft or assault, the Policia de Turismo (Tourism Police) Women’s safety should be your first port of call.

Female tourists can feel generally Established specially to protect you Overview confident while in Peru, but should and the lucrative tourism industry, they expect to draw some attention, speak at least some English and are especially if traveling alone. trained in handling all sorts of crimes Be aware of the possibility of drink against tourists. spiking – hallucinogenic plants have Due to a string of false reporting of The CoastThe been used to render tourists senseless theft around tourist spots, you may be before a robbery or assault. Never leave questioned quite sternly about your your drink unattended and don't drink testimony. Don't take offense – they're anything you didn't buy yourself, or at just doing their job. Being polite and least see poured. cooperative is the best way to speed up the process and get you back to your Highlands The LGBTQ travel safety holiday. Peruvians tolerate homosexuality among foreign visitors. However, the situation for locals remains a struggle, Ayahuasca Sacred to the indigenous people of the Amazon, the brew made from the which is why many LGBTQ Peruvians ayahuasca vine has been used in traditional ceremonies administered by The Amazon The don't publicly identify as homosexual. shamans for thousands of years. Although homosexuality is legal, While many travelers seek ayahuasca retreats in order to find same-sex marriage is not. While gays enlightenment, there have been several cases in recent years where things have gone very wrong, resulting in psychotic damage, crimes against others, and lesbians can serve openly in the and even death. military and transgender people can Ayahuasca retreats in South America are largely unregulated. Retreats which legally change their gender, Peru – with tend to have safeguards in place aren’t cheap, but you are putting your life in strong ties to Catholicism – remains their hands. Reputable retreats will offer many services and safety measures Adventure a deeply conservative and traditional such as advance health screening of guests, numerous well-trained female and male staff on hand, and plenty of post-ceremony support. society. If you do plan to take a retreat, read reviews, do the research, and ask as Public displays of affection among many questions of the venue as possible. same-sex couples are highly unusual.

16 Visas and areas and in the coastal areas north of Chiclayo. Wear long trousers and When you Vaccinations sleeves around dusk and dawn, and arrive in plenty of insect repellent, especially A country that features both Cusco, in low altitude and jungle areas. especially if tropical jungle and multiple You might also consider bringing a you’re flying peaks above 20,600ft (6,300m) mosquito net. in from lower will require a little advance elevations, Contents planning to visit. Altitude sickness take a few Altitude or elevation sickness can occur days to Visa requirements in highland areas, including Cusco. The acclimatize. Visitors from most countries do not Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu reaches need a visa to enter Peru for tourism, over 13,800ft (4,000m) above sea but your passport should be valid for at level, so if you plan to hike here or in Overview least six months to avoid problems at other mountain areas, make sure your the airport. The length of stay granted insurance covers high-altitude trekking. ranges from 30 to 183 days, and can’t When you arrive in Cusco, especially usually be extended. if you’re flying in from lower elevations, If you’re coming into Peru by land, take a few days to acclimatize. Some The CoastThe make sure you get both an exit stamp shortness of breath and fatigue from the country you are leaving and is normal, and your body should an entry stamp into Peru from each naturally adjust to the thinner air. The appropriate immigration office, or you prescription medication acetazolamide may run into issues later on. (Diamox) can help prevent and treat the effects of elevation sickness. Highlands The Vaccinations Drink plenty of water, and avoid There are no specific vaccines required alcohol and smoking, as these both to enter Peru, but hepatitis A and make the effects worse. Ibuprofen tetanus are strongly recommended, or paracetamol can help with mild and hepatitis B, rabies, tuberculosis, headaches, but if you feel sick or typhoid, and yellow fever are also become dizzy or disoriented, seek Amazon The recommended to stay on the safe side.. medical help immediately. In particular, a yellow fever vaccine Altitude sickness can, in extreme is recommended if you are traveling cases, be fatal, so let someone know if beyond Lima, Cusco, Machu Picchu you feel unwell. and the Inca Trail, or below 7,546ft (2,300m). Proof of vaccination may Trip preparation Adventure be required before re-entry to your Make an appointment with your doctor country of residence. at least six weeks before you travel There is a potential risk from zika, to discuss vaccinations, anti-malarial and a low risk of malaria in the Amazon medication, and Diamox.

17 Contents Overview The CoastThe

The Highlands The HH

THE COAST Amazon The

rom the cosmopolitan capital city of Lima, to the laid-back surf towns and ancient citadels of Fthe north, to the soaring sand dunes and rustic Pisco bodegas in the south, Peru’s coast is one long Adventure adventure – 1,500mi (2,414km) long, to be exact.

18 THE COAST 48 Hours in Lima With an internationally renowned foodie culture, plenty of history, and genuinely great waves, there’s no better Contents spot than Lima to discover the local’s Peru.

Lima’s historic center Originally built to be Spain’s colonial capital in South America, Lima boasts Overview some impressive architecture. At the UNESCO Heritage site Plaza Pueblo Libre district, Lima San Martin, you’ll find the luxurious El , visited by the likes of Hemingway and Walt Disney. ancient seven-platformed pyramid The CoastThe Officially a national monument, El in the middle of Miraflores, Then, hit At the Bolivar also serves the largest Pisco the Mercado Indio for alpaca goods UNESCO Sour in the city. or Agua y Tierra for souvenirs from Heritage Walk down Jirón de la Uníon, the Amazon. site Plaza a historical meeting point for

San Martin, Highlands The intellectuals, until you hit the Plaza Barranco you’ll find de Armas, the old town’s main This is Lima's bohemian the luxurious square. During the Fiestas Patrias on neighbourhood. Begin with a visit to El Gran Hotel July 28th (Independence Day) it’s full the Museum of Modern Art, followed Bolivar, of dancing, parades, and fireworks. by a stroll along the seafront. visited by Enjoy the colorful buildings and the likes of The Amazon The Miraflores street art while you munch on Hemingway Hop on one of the city’s modern picarones – Peru’s famous, donut-like and Walt buses to Lima’s most fashionable street food – before heading to the Disney. neighborhood, packed with famous Bajada de Baños for sunset. restaurants, outdoor offerings, and a When your stomach grumbles, thriving nightlife. make a beeline for La Picanteria in Bike along the Malécon for , a hideaway with some of Adventure unrivaled ocean views, then head the city’s best seafood. Or try Insolina down to the beach for a surf at Punta for comida criollo, an eclectic fusion Roquitas. of cuisines that’s Peruvian food like Next, check out , an grandma used to make.

19 THE COAST

Nightlife After dinner, party-goers descend on National Plaza Kennedy in Miraflores, where Ceviche Day you’ll find the city’s hippest bars. is June 28th, La Emolientería is one of the most but any day popular local haunts, or for a unique is perfect to experience try a peña – they’re late enjoy this night cabarets hosting traditional

tangy, citrus- Contents music, dance, and comedy. De Rompe cooked y Raja is quite authentic. seafood dish. Miraflores coastline End your night at Ayahuasca, a three-story colonial mansion-turned- bar that’s a traveler favorite. regularly stop at Chez Wong’s to enjoy

the iconic dish from its working-class Overview Shopping roots. The next morning, perk up with a cup Wash down lunch with another of emoliente, a traditional elixir of Peruvian classic – the Pisco Sour. The quinoa, aloe, pollen, and local herbs Antigua Taberna Queirolo (aka El sold at street carts. After breakfast at Queirolo) is a well-loved watering hole The CoastThe the hip El Pan de la Chola, it’s time to in Pueblo Libre that’s been serving shop. Piscos since the 1880’s. You’ll be Start in San Isidro, an upscale area nearby the Gran Mercado Artesanal if neighborhood full of boutiques to you’re still souvenir hunting. peruse. Bibliophiles will swoon over The Highlands The El Virrey’s vintage book room stocked Catacombs, Chinatown, Where to with rare editions. Then head to and ceramics stay in Lima Dédalo, a colonial casona filled with Walk off your Piscos underground Barranco unique contemporary crafts and a on a tour of the Catacombs of San Second Home, a five-room casona back-patio bar, or try the funky art Francisco de Lima Basilica, lined with with a swimming gallery and boutique Vernácula in bones arranged in geometric patterns. pool and ocean Barranco. Then take a stroll through Barrio views Amazon The Chino, Lima’s Chinatown, for Chinese Casa Nuestra, a colorful hotel- architecture and a host of incredible Peruvian classics esque homestay National Ceviche Day is June 28th, but Chifa restaurants (that’s Chinese- with roof terrace any day is perfect to enjoy this tangy, Peruvian cuisine). and breakfast citrus-cooked seafood dish. Wait in No trip is complete without a stop Miraflores line for Ceviche de Mero at La Paisana at the . This private Residencial Adventure Miraflores, an (open only for lunch), or make the trek collection of pre-Columbian art is also eight suite B&B out to Chez Wong’s, a tiny eatery that home to the world's largest collection with high ceilings might be the best cevicheria in Lima. of erotic ceramics – a unique way to and family-style breakfast Peruvian dignitaries and celebrities end your stay in Lima.

20 THE COAST Trujillo and the North From famous surf breaks to ancient cities, the northern coast of Peru is a dreamscape for the adventurous traveler. ? Contents

Trujillo Beyond the shopping malls and noisy sprawl of Peru’s third largest city are the modestly preserved remnants of its glamourous colonial past. Overview Ventanillas de Combayo Poke your head into the courtyards and restaurants near the Plaza de Armas to discover fading frescos, white-gloved Dama de Cao waiters, and other tokens of Trujillo’s This stunning museum houses the former sugar-cane wealth. mummified remains of a high priestess The CoastThe If cities aren’t your thing, go who ruled the Moche of the Chicama This town is sandboarding at the Laguna de Conache, Valley. You can see her elaborately famous for about 40 minutes away. Take a combi tattooed body through a trippy having the (public van) for a few dollars or join a day- arrangement of mirrors. It’s worth longest wave tour for about S/. 65 (US $20). getting a private taxi for around S/.150

in the world, Highlands The (US $46) plus the S/. 10 (US $3) entrance accessible fee, or join a tour from Huanchaco or to almost The largest pre-Columbian city in the Trujillo for S/. 50 (US $15.50). every level Americas feels like a graphic designer’s of surfer. fantasy. Sea-themed geometric patterns Chicama adorn streets, walls, and plazas where This town is famous for having the 60,000 Chimú people once lived. It’s S/. 10 longest wave in the world, accessible to Amazon The (US $3) to get in, or join a tour in Trujillo almost every level of surfer. There’s some that includes other ancient temples for splurge-worth accommodation in this around S/. 40 (US $12.30). otherwise sleepy fishing village.

Huanchaco Pacasmayo Credited as the 5,000-year-old birthplace One of the best-preserved colonial Adventure of surfing, Huanchaco has an easygoing town centers in Peru is off the radar of vibe that makes it a comfortable base most travelers. Colorful buildings line for exploring the area or learning to surf. the waterfront, which is a kite-surfer’s Prepare to stay far longer than planned. playground.

21 THE COAST

Cajamarca This ancient city is best known for Peru’s finest cheeses, mushrooms, and dulce-de-leche, but it’s also where the Incan ruler was executed by conquistador . Visit the eerie funerary enclosures carved into cliffs at the Ventanillas de Contents Otuzco and Cambayo, and relax at the Incan baths, popular Banos del Inca hot springs, where you can rent a private pool by the half hour. civilizations are known as “Purgatory” by the locals. You won’t find any night tours Kuelap of this site thanks to a long history of Travelers Overview Travelers seeking the beauty of Machu creepy vibes, starting with conquistadors seeking Picchu without the crowds head to throwing non-believers to their deaths the beauty this vast stone fortification perched from the top. of Machu in the cloud forest. It houses over Picchu 450 structures built by the pre-Incan Lobitos

without CoastThe Chachapoya people. If you’re looking for a ghost town vibe a the crowds Hike for four hours and 4,921ft (1,500m) la an old Western film, this out-of-the- head to this up from Tingo Viejo or take a cable car way surfer’s paradise will not disappoint. vast stone through 20 minutes of breathtaking Experienced surfers will find a variety fortification Andean vistas for S/. 20 soles (US $6) plus of fast and barrelly lefts, and beginner

perched in Highlands The another S/. 20 entrance fee. lessons are also available. the cloud forest. Lambayeque and Sipan Catacaos Most travelers miss out on the charming This bustling market of regional goods is streets and famous King Kong cakes northern Peru’s answer to the handicraft of Lambayeque on their way to the heaven of Cusco. You’ll find excellent shamanistic mercado de brujos in Chiclayo. hammocks, leather goods, straw hats, Amazon The Stay in a restored colonial hotel baskets, and silver. near the main square and walk to the museum of Sipan, a wealthy lord of the Mancora Moche people who was buried with his Peru’s party-happy head here for entire family, entourage of guards, and the waves and year-round sun. The treasures beyond a grave robber’s wildest mangroves of Tumbes are a short Adventure dreams. trip away and worth exploring with a qualified guide. For quiet relaxation, Los Tucume Organos, El Ñuro, or El Colan are the These layered built by several prettiest beaches on the North Coast.

22 THE COAST Ica and the South Hidden desert oases, ancient geoglyphs, and rustic Pisco bodegas make this a uniquely unmissable part of Peru. Contents

The line of dusty towns along Peru’s southern coast might not look like much upon first inspection, but explore them and you’ll find enough cultural and adventure activities to keep even the Overview most adrenaline-fueled travelers’ blood pumping. Cathedral Rock Formation,

Wildlife in Paracas Straight down the Pan American entrance. The CoastThe Highway from Lima, the town of Pisco There are camping facilities here, but Home to doesn’t offer much of interest – most check in with the park ranger for safety Peru’s visitors bypass it for neighboring updates, as robberies have been known national Paracas. From here, two-hour speed in the reserve. spirit, Ica’s a boats (S/. 50 or US $15.30) skim across

great place Highlands The the waves to Islas Ballestas. Dubbed the Bodegas in Ica to spend an “Poor Man’s Galapagos,” these rocky Home to Peru’s national spirit, Ica’s afternoon islands are a riot of toddling Humboldt a great place to spend an afternoon learning penguins, dozing sea lions, colonies of learning about and tasting the local about and rare blue-footed boobies, and lots of tipple. 20 minutes away by taxi, tasting the stinky guano. Hacienda Bodega Tacama, the oldest local tipple. As the boats skirt around the rocks, vineyard and Pisco producer in South Amazon The keep an eye on the water, too: between America, has tours to suit everyone, August and October, you might spot from wine aficionado to Pisco virgin. Humpback whales. Across the bay, the barren dunes of Sandboards in Huacachina Reserva Nacional Paracas are similarly For a more active adventure, it’s a remarkable for wildlife: over 200 bird ten-minute taxi journey from Ica to Adventure species, including Chilean flamingos, the mirage-like town of Huacachina. have been sighted. The best viewing is A disorientating array of hostels and at dawn at the bay outside the museum, restaurants have sprung up around a located 1.5mi (2.5km) from the main small lagoon wedged between sand

23 THE COAST

no one really knows why. Skip the viewpoint 12.5mi (20km) One of north of Nazca – the lines are far better Peru’s most seen from the air. 30-minute, five- recognizable seater airplane trips (S/. 261 or US $80) ancient take you over 13 shapes, including a landmarks, hummingbird and a condor. Visibility is the better and turbulence less likely before

mysterious, Contents around 10:30am, when the haze starts UNESCO to obscure the lines. World Hummingbird figure, Nazca Lines Be sure to research reputable airlines Heritage in Nazca, as it’s not worth risking your Nazca lines dunes. While it’s less of an oasis of life to save a few soles. comprise 300 calm than previously, it remains Peru’s geometric Overview ultimate sandboarding destination. Adventures in Lunahuaná shapes Tours (S/. 50 or US $15.30 for two A slice of green in the barren desert, carved into hours) strap you into a 4x4 dune buggy, Lunahuaná runs parallel to the ribbon- the desert which speeds across the desert before like Río Cañete. by a long- letting you out to skim down the dunes Though a newcomer on Peru’s tourist vanished The CoastThe on a board. Sand isn’t soft like snow, so scene, this action-packed village is one culture. start slowly and don’t be cocky – you’ll of the top playgrounds for white water save yourself some painful bruises. rafting in the whole continent. Expect If you’re happier on two feet, stretch everything from Class III to V rapids, and your legs with a 20-minute climb to to pay S/. 100 (US $30.60) for a day’s the dune above the town, where you tour. Horse-riding trips (S/. 25 or US Highlands The can watch the otherworldly landscape $7.65) and canopy zip lines (S/. 40 or US disappearing into the hazy dusk at $12.25) are also on offer in the valley. sunset, or the spray of sand as the pros shred down the slope. Criollo culture in Chincha Accommodation for all price ranges is A bit further south along the main available, but as the lagoon isn’t ideal for highway, Chincha has a unique heritage: Amazon The swimming, consider splurging on a place it’s home to the descendants of black with a pool – it gets fiendishly hot here slaves brought from Africa by the during the day. Spanish. For the best insight into their criollo The Nazca Lines culture, visit during the Verano Negro One of Peru’s most recognizable ancient festival in February or Fiesta de las Adventure landmarks, the mysterious, UNESCO Danzas Negras in November, when the World Heritage Nazca lines comprise town erupts into a chaotic whirl of 300 geometric shapes carved into the dancing, music, and food showcasing the desert by a long-vanished culture – and region’s Peruvian-Afro lineage.

24 Contents Overview The CoastThe

THE Highlands The HH

HIGHLANDS Amazon The

or many travelers, the Peruvian highlands are synonymous with Machu Picchu – but there’s Fmuch more to discover, from the tallest mountain range in the New World, to the deepest Adventure canyon on the planet, to remote Andean villages steeped in tradition.

25 THE HIGHLANDS 48 Hours in Cusco Cusco is constantly bustling with tourists prepping for or returning from Machu Picchu, yet the international influence has integrated beautifully with Contents the local lifestyle.

With an abundance of excellent restaurants, awe-inspiring churches, and busy market places, there’s always Overview something to draw you back to Cusco – or keep you extending your stay. Fruit market, Cusco

The Boleto Turistico A Boleto Turistico (tourist ticket) is Sacsayhuaman fortress. If you’re lucky, The CoastThe required to see most of the important you’ll be in Cusco during one of the sights in Cusco and the Sacred Valley. city’s many festivals and see parades You can buy the full ticket, which around the Plaza. includes 14 sights and is valid for ten days, for S/. 13 (US $40). Or you can San Blas buy tickets for three different circuits Next, it’s a (steep) uphill walk to the Highlands The – Cusco museums, Cusco Inca sites, artisan neighborhood of San Blas for or Sacred Valley sites – for S/. 70 (US a stroll through the shops. Check out $21.60) each. These are valid for one the ornate altar in the Iglesia San Blas, to two days only. Boletos can be then stop at the San Pedro Market, a purchased at the entrance to most of bustling, open-air food market. Grab Where the sights, or at the COSITUC office at empanadas or stop at Govinda’s food to stay Amazon The Avenida Del Sol 103 in central Cusco. stall for spectacular vegan treats. Milhouse Hostel is a popular spot with comfy beds, large Plaza de Armas Koricancha and the Museum lockers, and free Start off your tour at this vibrant of Pre-Columbian Art luggage storage during your hike. square in the heart of the city. At Head back down the hill to find the

Casa San Blas Adventure its center is the statue of Inca ruler twelve-angled stone, which was part of Boutique is a . Surrounding it you’ll find the wall of the ancient Hatunrumiyoc quaint offering in restaurants, shops, and La Catedral, Palace and is a prime example of the a renovated 17th century house with a dramatic piece of architecture built Inca’s remarkably precise dry-stone city-view balconies. with stones taken from the nearby masonry.

26 THE HIGHLANDS Contents Overview

Cusco Plaza de Armas

Then, head off to the Inca Sun Then it’s time to party, and Cusco What The CoastThe Temple, Koricancha, which was once is rife with options. Pepe Zeta is a no- to Buy Nothing’s more lined with sheets of gold. It was frills hangout serving liter beers and Peruvian than a ransacked by the Spanish, who built Andean music, or try Mama Africa, the brightly colored a colonial church atop the ruins – the pop-reggaeton club that’s the spot for bag, sweater, hat, or table runner woven contrast is striking. young travelers. For laid-back vibes, in a traditional The Highlands The Fill your belly at Greens café, then hit Los Perros, a cafe that turns jazz Andean pattern. it’s over to the Museum of Pre- lounge at night. Look for textiles made from alpaca Columbian Art, a museum-lovers wool (a relative of favorite that stretches across two Sacred Valley day trip the llama) – it’s hypo- floors of a Spanish-Colonial casona. The next morning, head out early allergenic, naturally Next, stop in at the Centro de to see the Sacred Valley. Your water-resistant, and

sustainable. “Baby” Amazon The Textiles Tradicionales. This nonprofit Boleto Turistico will get you into the alpaca comes from organization is preserving traditional agricultural amphitheater the first shearing weaving techniques and helping local and the Pisac and of the alpaca and is particularly fine and communities in the process. archaeological sites soft. To see if your Back in Cusco, grab a healthy bite textile is alpaca and Dining and nightlife in Cusco at Organika. Then it’s off to the not acrylic, hold it For dinner, it’s Morena’s for incredible, ChocoMuseo for a chocolate-making in the sunlight – if Adventure it glints, it’s at least well-priced Peruvian food, or try lesson, followed by a yoga class at partially acrylic. Also, Papacho’s, the only gourmet burger Healing House to unwind before your if the price seems joint in Cusco, by famed Peruvian chef trek to Machu Picchu or one of the too good to be true, it probably is. Gaston Acurio. other epic treks in the region.

27 THE HIGHLANDS Day Trips from Cusco Looming fortresses, blinding white salt mines, and plenty of hiking trails make a day trip to the Sacred Valley the perfect Contents introduction to all things Inca.

While Machu Picchu is the primary reason for making a pilgrimage to Cusco, it would be a mistake to skip the Sacred Valley. Squashed between Overview the city and the citadel, it’s a region of hilltop ruins and dramatic agricultural Sacsayhuaman terraces, where ancient customs are still very much alive. The elevation here is high, but then pass a clutch of archaeological sites, The CoastThe so are the rewards; these day trips including the man-made caves of The into the Sacred Valley will prepare you Q’enqo, the site of Inca ritual sacrifice, elevation physically and culturally for traveling before the formidable dry-stone walls here is high, onwards to Machu Picchu. of the great fortress Sacsayhuaman but then rise up before you.

so are the Highlands The and It’s said that Cusco, former capital of rewards; Sacsayhuaman the Inca empire, was originally built in these day Situated only 5mi (8km) away from the shape of a puma – the fortress is trips into Cusco, Tambomachay is an easy its head, and the terraced walls form the Sacred independent day trip and excellent the cat’s teeth. Valley will for acclimatizing. These ceremonial But the real gem of your adventure prepare you The Amazon The baths – most likely used by Inca is the Cusco Planetarium. Astronomy physically nobility – sit at 12,467ft (3,800m) was essential to Incan life, and this and elevation, so boarding a cheap family-owned planetarium will teach culturally collectivo (shared minivan) destined for you all you need to know, complete for traveling Pisac from Calle Puputi, getting off at with stunning views of the stars. onwards Tambomachay, then hiking back down A gentle 20-minute hike then takes to Machu Adventure via Sacsayhuaman is far more pleasant you back down into Cusco. Picchu. than walking both ways. From the ruins, take the main road Market bartering in Pisac and then the path bearing left. As it Rising out of the hillside above the meanders down towards Cusco, you’ll village of Pisac, the Inca Písac citadel

28 THE HIGHLANDS is relatively unvisited compared with many other Sacred Valley treasures. The It’s made up of agricultural terraces, an sweeping Inca cemetery, and a temple complex, perspective with vast, valley-length views to boot, of the gorge but unless you’re superbly fit and from the top acclimatized (it’s a gruelling 90-minute makes the hike up), hire a taxi to the top and strategic Contents wander down through the ruins. placement of Back in Pisac, savor the chaos this fortress of its market, with Sundays hitting clear. full throttle as the stalls burst with alpaca sweaters, pyramids of colorful powdered dyes, and elaborately Overview painted Andean pottery. Don’t forget to barter, it’s all part of the fun. Know your Traditional weaving in the Sacred Valley. camelids

The Moray Terraces and Ellen Hall At some point in Salinas de Maras the highlands, you’ll The CoastThe Ditch the expensive bus tours for the work, so make sure you buy salt from likely run across a llama (perhaps Moray Terraces and Salinas de Maras the shop before taking the path on the with ears trimmed and instead hop on a collectivo (this left of the pools down into the Sacred in bright tassels) or time from Calle Pavitos for S/.10 or US Valley and a bus back to Cusco. a herd of alpaca. But what’s the $3) to be dropped off at the turning difference? Both The Highlands The for Moray. Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo are South American From here, a short taxi ride The small-yet-perfectly-formed town camelids, but llamas are bigger and brings you to the Inca’s agricultural of Ollantaytambo has more to offer used primarily as laboratory. Spiraling up the hillside, than just the train to Aguas Calientes. pack animals, while these circular terraces differ 59˚F Give yourself a few hours here alpacas are raised (15˚C) in temperature between the and climb the stone steps up Temple for their wool

and their meat. Amazon The highest and the lowest, creating Hill, the ruins perched above the The other New unique microclimates that allowed village. The sweeping perspective of World camelids the Incas to experiment with growing the gorge from the top makes the are the delicate vicuña (which has crops. strategic placement of this fortress extremely fine A 5.6mi (9km) hike back via the clear. wool used in very village of Moray brings you to the On the road back to Cusco, hop on expensive textiles) equally spectacular Salinas de Maras, any collectivo and get off at Cerveceria and the guanaco, Adventure a smaller version a shimmering landscape of salt pools del Valle, a nearby craft brewery, of the llama found etched into the hillside. Local families whose six beers on tap and seasonal in the deserts of have been extracting the white stuff menu of pub grub is an excellent southern Peru. Both are wild. here for millennia – it’s back-breaking reward for an afternoon’s hiking.

29 THE HIGHLANDS Making the Most of Machu Picchu

The iconic “lost city” of Machu Contents Picchu is deservedly famous – and insanely popular. Here’s how to avoid the crowds and experience it at its best. Overview

This Wonder of the World is open daily from 6am to 4pm, and even though Machu Picchu at Sunrise visitors are capped at 2,500, there are always crowds. Except if you’re one of the first to enter. Hiking to Machu Picchu The CoastThe This isn’t an easy feat. First, you’ll This is without doubt a bucket-list The classic need your ticket in hand, bought in experience. You’ll visit crystalline Inca trail advance online or as part of your glacial lakes and see the majestic has a trekking package – you can’t get them Andes mountains in all their splendor – 500-person- at the entrance. Be aware that new it’s a very special journey, and all treks

per-day limit Highlands The rules have been put in place in an are worth it. that books attempt to minimize the impact of The classic Inca trail has a out months tourism on the site. Visitors are now 500-person-per-day limit (guided in advance, allowed entry in two half-day shifts, so tours only) that books out months in but is the be sure to purchase your ticket for the advance. However, it’s the only one only one that morning if you plan to go early. that ends at (Sun Gate), the ends at Inti The Amazon The Beginning in 2018, it may be historic entry point to Machu Picchu. Punku (Sun mandatory to visit the ruins with a If you get up early enough on the last Gate). licensed guide. This can be arranged day of the hike, you can be at this gate through a tour company or at the by sunrise. entrance (though you might get a A cheaper alternative is the higher-quality guide through the tour Salkantay trail. Its scenery is equally company). spectacular, but there are no permit Adventure The gateway to Machu Picchu is limitations – experienced hikers can the town of Aguas Calientes. You can even go without guides as long as get here by trek or train – both are they’re prepped for the sub-zero incredible. nights.

30 THE HIGHLANDS

Getting to Machu Picchu by train Other than hiking, the only other way to get to Machu Picchu is by rail – there are no roads to the ruins. Trains depart from Poroy (about a 20-minute taxi ride from Cusco) or Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Contents The economically-priced Vistadome and Expedition trains have panoramic Train to Machu Picchu windows and skylights to enjoy the beautiful landscapes on your three- hour journey, or take the Belmond handful of ruins on , Hiram Bingham for a true luxury most notably the Temple of the Moon, Less well- Overview experience. accessed by the Gran Caverna path. known, Going by train lets you avoid an Less well-known, but also a but also a overnight stay in Aguas Calientes, but worthwhile climb, is Machu Picchu worthwhile that’s not recommended if you want to Mountain, southwest of the Machu climb, is see Machu Picchu with no crowds. Picchu citadel across from Huayna

Machu CoastThe Picchu. It can be climbed in three to Picchu Beating the crowds four hours. Mountain, So how to get in first? There’s a If you want to do one of these hikes, southwest of Belmond hotel just outside the ruin, make sure you’ve pre-purchased a the Machu and if you have the means to stay there ticket to Machu Picchu Mountain or

Picchu Highlands The you can guarantee first entry. If you Huayna Picchu as part of your entry citadel don’t, don’t sweat it. Just be up at 4am ticket. There are limits to the number of across from so you’re first in line for the bus to the people who are allowed to do the treks Huayna site’s gates. For the mega-fit, consider each day. Picchu. an extended morning sprint up the You’ll need to start the treks early steep hill to the entrance. There are in the day (before 8am or 11am for always a few runners who even Huayna Picchu, depending on your Amazon The the first bus up. ticket, and before 10am for Machu Picchu Mountain). Both offer impressive Hiking at the ruins: Huayna views of Machu Picchu and the valley, Picchu vs. Machu Picchu but both are intense climbs. Which one Mountain to choose is personal: Huayna Picchu is There’s a good chance you’ve heard better known and thus more crowded, Adventure about Huayna Picchu (“young but it’s a "shorter" climb. Machu Picchu mountain”), the famous, cone-shaped Mountain has better views (it’s higher hill behind the ruins. It can be climbed up) and fewer crowds, but no ruins and in two to three hours. There are a is a longer trek.

31 THE HIGHLANDS Alternatives to the Inca Trail With permits limited on Peru’s iconic, well-trodden Inca Trail, alternative routes to the Contents treasures of the Andes are ever more appealing.

Peru’s iconic Inca Trail, a fairly taxing 26- mi (42km) hike to the sacred Inca city of Overview Machu Picchu, has been an adventure lover’s rite of passage since the site was Hiking the Salkantay Trail first discovered in 1911. As over a million travelers descend each year and the site nudges ever closer to inclusion on Machu Picchu at least three months in The CoastThe UNESCO’s list of endangered Heritage advance. These Sites, more sustainable tourist initiatives To avoid altitude sickness, plan to equally have taken hold. spend two or three days acclimatizing scenic These equally scenic Andean routes in Cusco before setting out. High Andean offer trails strewn with Inca ruins amidst elevations can also mean dramatic

routes offer Highlands The a diversity of ecosystems, unsullied by temperature spikes. trails strewn the selfie stick-wielding crowds. with Inca Salkantay Trek to ruins amidst Practical Tips for Hiking to Machu Picchu a flamboyant Machu Picchu The five-day Salkantay Trail is the most diversity of Besides the alternative routes to Machu popular alternative to the classic Inca ecosystems. Picchu listed here, many operators will Trail. The trail starts at Mollepata, three Amazon The customize their standard routes and hours from Cusco, and negotiates 45mi offer treks that range from basic tents (72.5km) of soaring Andean peaks, cloud to more “glamping” style options. forest, and lowland jungle. Travelers who like peace of mind Widely considered to be a step should book in advance, although you up from the Inca Trail in terms of can often save significantly by booking physical challenge, hikers must tackle Adventure on the ground in Cusco. the windswept, frigid Salkantay Pass In very high season (June to (14,760ft or 4,500m). September), tours quickly sell out. You’ll The trade-off is huge: the chance also need to purchase your permits for to hike in relative solitude past awe-

32 THE HIGHLANDS

the train to Aguas Calientes, the base camp for Machu Picchu. Tours begin in Much more Cusco and drive to the starting point strenuous at Mollepata. Prices for the tour range than the Inca from S/. 3,073 or US $950 (six to ten Trail, this trekkers) to S/. 3,720 or US $1,150 (two 34mi (55km) trekkers). trail involves

ascending Contents Classic Choquequirao trail seven steep Nestled in cloud forest, some 61mi Choquequirao summits and (98km) west of Cusco, the magnificent negotiating Inca citadel of Choquequirao is often rocky terrain inspiring Salkantay Mountain and called the “other Machu Picchu.” With at a dizzying through valleys studded with ruins. The a maximum elevation of 10,000ft 15,800ft Overview tour costs around S/. 1,779 or US $550 (3,048m), this trek is not a high-altitude (4,816m). (based on nine trekkers). There’s also the head spinner compared to some others. option of staying in high-end mountain But it does feature some brutal ascents, lodges (from S/. 10,350 or US $3,200). rugged terrain, and a challenging hike No permits or guides are required for deep into the Apurímac Canyon. The CoastThe this trek, but you’ll still need to purchase Your payoff is gorgeous scenery and an entrance ticket to Machu Picchu newly discovered ruins – all without (around S/. 226 or US $70). Independent the need for a guide and the crowds of hikers can arrange tickets in advance Machu Picchu. through the official Peruvian Ministry of Departing from Cachora (four hours Culture website from Cusco), the four-day round trip Highlands The with a guide costs around S./ 1,860 or Ancascocha Trail US $575 per person (nine to twelve to Machu Picchu trekkers) to S/. 4,237 or US $1,310 (two Located within the Sacred Valley, this trekkers). trek offers similar scenery to the Inca For an epic nine-day adventure, many Trail, but with little tourist traffic and the tour operators offer a Choquequirao hike Amazon The chance to explore recently excavated that links up with the Inca Trail (58mi or ruins en route. 93km total). Beyond Choquequirao, the Much more strenuous than the Inca trail traverses the remote Vilcabamba Trail, this 34mi (55km) trail involves mountain range before reaching ascending seven steep summits and Urubamba, where trekkers board the negotiating rocky terrain at 15,800ft train to Aguas Calientes, the base camp Adventure (4,816m). Your reward: a secluded hike for Machu Picchu. through the pristine Vilcabamba and Expect to pay from S/. 4,480 or US Urubamba mountain ranges. $1,385 (nine trekkers) to S/. 7,957 or US On the final day, trekkers board $2,640 (two trekkers).

33 THE HIGHLANDS The Cordilleras Peru’s Cordilleras offer up towering peaks, turquoise lagoons, ancient temples, and about a million other adventures in between. Contents

You could easily spend a month here and not get bored, but with five to ten days you can take on a trek, have a great night out with a hodge-podge of Overview international travelers in Huaraz, and visit most of the top sites. Huaraz City

Huaraz The nexus and plexus of the region, Right in town, head up on a quick The CoastThe Huaraz is the staging ground for most 45-minute hike to Mirador de Reaqueña Huaraz is of your adventures here. A dozen- to acclimatize yourself and savor the at 10,141ft plus outfitters will get you ready for views of the surrounding wilderness. (3,091m), and treks, mountain bike trips, climbing Huaraz is at 10,141ft (3,091m), and you’ll you’ll want adventures, and horseback riding. want to take your time for the first day

to take your Highlands The Many people choose to stay in or so. time for the Huaraz and take day tours out to places The stalls at the Feria Artesanal first day or like Chavín de Huántar, the Lagunas (Artisans Market) are great for picking so. Llaganuco, the Laguna Parón, or the up souvenirs and thick wool sweaters glacier at Nevado Pastorurí. for the cold nights. If you’re interested in giving back, there are a number of local non-profits that take on both short- and Amazon The long-term volunteers. Come night-time, a fun-loving crowd of international travelers, locals, scruffy mountaineers, and other interesting characters come together in the raucous beer halls that light up the Andean Adventure night.

Cordillera Blanca Huarez There are plenty of adventures to

34 THE HIGHLANDS

Huántar to explore the underground passageways, ceremonial temples, and Prepare for onsite museum at this World Heritage huge Andean site that saw its rise between 1200 and vistas, 500 BC. Most people come here on a mountain- day trip from Huaraz. You can stop along top climbs, the way in small Quechua-speaking casual villages, taking quick hikes out to lost encounters Contents lagoons. with

Trekking in the Cordillera Blanca Quechua- Chiquián and the Cordillera speaking Huayhuash locals, and be had in the Cordillera Blanca, from It’s less famous than the Cordillera a peaceful bagging a 19,685ft (6,000m) peak – no Blanca, but nevertheless, the virgin, escape under Overview small endeavor – to heading off the remote, and stunning Cordillera the big beaten track to the less-visited lagoons Huayhuash offers a bunch of challenging Peruvian sky. that mark this high Andean mountain high-altitude treks. If you have the time range. – and the stamina – the spectacular, The top trek for most is the three- or nine-day Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit The CoastThe four-day Santa Cruz Trek. Outfitters in starts in Pocpa and ends in Llamac, and Huaraz can get you started, and you can includes visits to tiny Andean hamlets do the trip with a guide or on your own. and turquoise lakes. It’s fairly well traveled and signposted, Many people kick off the trip in the so navigation is a breeze. Prepare for laid-back village of Chiquián. Expect to huge Andean vistas, mountain-top pay about S/. 162 (US $50) per day for a Highlands The climbs, casual encounters with Quechua- guide and S/. 65 (US $20) for a donkey – speaking locals, and a peaceful escape believe us, it’s worth it to not have the under the big Peruvian sky. extra weight on your back, especially The Casa de Guías in Hauraz is a good on the ascents to mountain passes over place to pick up a guide and hire pack 16,400ft (5,000m). animals if you’re interested. Guided treks Amazon The will cost S/. 486-972 (US $150-300). What’s a Cordillera? A cordillera is a chain of mountains (the name means “little rope” in Chavín de Huántar and the Spanish). The term is used mostly for ranges in the Americas, particularly Callejón de Conchucos the Andes. Peru’s astounding Cordillera Blanca is the world’s second-highest The Callejón de Conchucos, a glorious mountain range after the Himalayas, and the highest tropical mountain Adventure collection of valleys on the eastern range. It features more than 25 peaks over 19,685ft (6,000m), most slopes of the Cordillera Blanca, is notably colossal Huascarán, Peru’s tallest peak at 22,205ft (6,768m). another trekking, mountain biking, and Not to be outdone, the Cordillera Huayhash has its own claim to fame – exploring highlight. If you only have a it’s home to Laguna Niñococha, the glacial lake that’s the source of the mighty Amazon River. day, be sure to make it out to Chavín de

35 THE HIGHLANDS The Central Sierra Under the monumental peaks of the Andes, a traditional way of living still predominates. Contents In Peru’s Central Sierra region, sites are linked up by the Incan Andean Road and divided by contrasts of vividness and modesty, city bustle and mountain serenity, rich vegetation and austere plains. Overview

Ayacucho Ayacucho This city is the best starting point for exploring the Central Sierra. A wide choice of bus companies operate district, where traditional retablos The CoastThe between Lima and Ayacucho, so (devotional story boxes) are made. For For great decide which comfort level suits you great views over the whole city, hike views over for an eight-hour journey, climbing up to Cerro Acuchimay or Cerro Picota. the whole from sea level to 8,860ft (2,700m), or city, hike you can pick one of four flights. Festivals in Ayacucho

up to Cerro Highlands The Despite its gloomy name – it was Ayacuchan locals love to celebrate. Acuchimay dubbed “corner of the dead” after a Many fiestas are held during the year, or Cerro bloody battle in 1825 – Ayachuco is a beginning with Carnaval Ayacuchano in Picota. very lively city with an engaging blend February/March, when the whole city of indigenous and Catholic beliefs. dances and shows its ceremonial face. It’s most famous for its 33 churches, But few Peruvian festivities can starting with Catedral Basilica de Santa compare with Ayacuchan Semana Santa Amazon The María at the Plaza de Armas. Be sure (Holy Week). Every visitor can take to stop at this square on Sunday to try part in observing the creation of floral the delicious local ice cream known as carpets, weeping over Christ's coffin, muyuchi. finding cover during the bull chase, or Also highly recommended is Museo celebrating the Easter Sunday vigil. de la Memoria (S/. 2 or US $.60 for the Adventure guided tour), which vividly illustrates Quinua the atrocity of the Shining Path To escape the bustle of the city, take guerrillas. a (shared van or taxi) from Don’t miss the Santa Ana artisan Óvalo de Magdalena and head to

36 THE HIGHLANDS the Pampa de Quinua, where the know inaccessible places. However, was written. Above the the train operates only from May to A tip for Quinua village rises a mighty obelisk October. adventurers commemorating the victorious battle Huancayo itself is a very pleasing wanting an of independence in 1824. The place town with an abundance of thematic authentic itself offers stunning views and invites parks like Parque de los Sombreros, local you to hike or ride horses (S/. 10-20 or where trees are replaced by hats, experience: US $3-6) towards various waterfalls. or Cerrito de Libertad, with an

take a Contents enchanting view of the city. colectivo Wari ruins The quirky rock towers known as from Halfway between Quinua and Torre Torre are only a few steps out of Huancavelica Ayacucho lies this extensive pre-Incan town, and a trek to the Huaytapallana and give cultural site, accompanied by a small glacier begins just 17mi (28 km) away. traditional museum. Every year on the summer living a try Overview solstice, Familia Ancestral Kunturkanki Natural wonders in Chopca holds the ceremony of Inti Raymi at this at Tarma village. site. The scent of palo santo, the music, Nature enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the and the ceremony itself make you feel surroundings of Tarma village (alias truly connected to the earth. La Perla de los Andes), which hide The CoastThe countless caves, the deepest being Huancavelica Gruta de Huagapo. To view a variety of Even higher into the mountains wild orchids, take one of the tours to you’ll find this picturesque colonial Valle de Chanchamayo. town. With the rising elevation, The nearby Reserva Nacional de temperatures can be chilly, so the local Junín, located within the vast Bombón Highlands The thermal baths come in handy. plateau, features endless plains and A tip for adventurers wanting Chinchaycocha, the largest lake within an authentic local experience: take Peru and home to an abundance of a colectivo from Huancavelica and birds. give traditional living a try in Chopca village. Visitors can pitch in with Mysterious temple Amazon The the potato harvests, help prepare Huánuco, the so-called gateway traditional dishes, and take part in city to the Amazon, is inseparably festivities. Basic but comfortable connected with the symbol of crossed lodging is available at . Warm hands, which was discovered within clothes recommended. the religious pre-Incan site Kotosh. Although the original artifact was Adventure Huancayo and beyond moved to Lima, Templo de las Manos Taking the local train Macho (S/. 13 or Cruzadas and the whole site is worth US $4) is a unique way to travel from exploring before you leave the Huancavelica to Huancayo and get to mountains and plunge into the jungle.

37 THE HIGHLANDS Arequipa and the Canyons The deepest canyons in the world, Colca and Cotahuasi lure extreme Contents sport enthusiasts and trekkers, while Peru’s magnificent second city, Arequipa, provides the base

for exploration, along with Overview excellent food and a perfect climate. Cruz del Condor lookout

Arequipa Founded in 1540, Arequipa’s historic Colca Canyon The CoastThe center is a confection of gleaming When it The Cañón del Colca defies superlatives. baroque buildings, justly anointed with comes to Plunging to 11,150ft (3,399m) – that’s UNESCO World Heritage status. gastronomic twice as deep as the Grand Canyon – The city’s undisputed cultural highlight, flair, Colca Canyon forms part of a 62mi-long the Monasterio/Convento de Santa (100km-long) volcanic mountain range

Arequipa Highlands The Catalina, was founded in 1579 as a holy gives Lima dominated by awe-inspiring Mount retreat for the daughters of gilded a run for its . Adventure travelers test Spanish families. Its serene courtyards, money. their mettle with multi-day hiking trips gardens, and cloisters reveal how – and mountaineering expeditions that despite their oath to poverty and chastity venture deep into the canyon. – the nuns had a pretty good gig with There’s also excellent river rafting, private kitchens, art collections, servants, mountain biking, and a zip line which Amazon The and luxuriously appointed “cells.” plummets 1,640ft (500m) between the When it comes to gastronomic canyon walls in a simulation of the flight flair, Arequipa gives Lima a run for its of an Andean Condor. money. Calles de Santa Catalina and The actual flight of these impressively San Francisco are a fine place to get large birds can be viewed at the Cruz acquainted with Arequipeño culinary del Cóndor lookout – most tour group Adventure traditions. Perennial favorites are Zig itineraries include a stop. Zag, with a staircase built by Gustave Eiffel, and Salamento, famed for its Cahatuasi Canyon fresh takes on classic Peruvian dishes. The crown for “deepest canyon in

38 THE HIGHLANDS the world” goes to Cahatuasi. It’s the preserve of experienced hikers, climbers, and river rafters due to its inaccessibility and intense Class V rapids. If you’re planning to hit Cahatuasi, it’s worth a short detour to the town of Corire and the Toro Myerto petroglyphs, a series of ancient cave paintings. Contents Most travelers to Cahatuasi sign up for organized excursions from Arequipa to Plaza de Armas, Chivay Chivay, the canyon’s main village. There’s no need to plan ahead – Arequipa’s bevy of outfitters offer daily departures worth shelling out for a room at the ranging from day trips to multi-day treks. rustic-chic lodges located between Overview Colectivos (mini vans) shuttle (mini vans) Chivay and Cabanaconde. independent travelers from Arequipa to shuttle the canyon’s villages, where experienced independent Paucarpata and Sabandia hikers can go it alone without a guide. travelers 4mi (6.4km) southeast of Arequipa, the Note that to enter the canyon all visitors town of Paucarpata is a worthwhile

from CoastThe must purchase a Boleto Turistico, or Arequipa to foray into the countryside. Founded by Tourist Ticket, for S/. 91 (US $28). the canyon’s the Spanish in the late 16th century, villages, its rich cultural traditions and pre- Chivay and canyon villages where Inca terraces can be explored on a The Colca Valley’s villages unfurl along combined day trip with Sabandia

experienced Highlands The the south and north banks of the hikers can (another mile down the road). canyon. Most tourist traffic is centered go it alone In Sabandia, renowned architect on the dusty town of Chivay, which without a Luis Felipe Calle breathed new life into clings to its Quechua traditions while guide. the region’s first stone mill, or molina, thoroughly embracing its status as the built in the early 17th century. When canyon’s main hub. the restoration project wrapped up in With electricity still a recent 1973, the architect was so taken with Amazon The addition, Chivay has a low-key vibe his accomplishment that he bought with a growing kernel of locally run the mill and turned it into a tourist hotels, inns, and restaurants. Town attraction complete with informative life orbits around the market and tours (S/. 9.70 or US $3), a swimming main square, where colorfully attired pool, and horseback rides. Colca women ply their wares against You can take a taxi (S./ 32 or around Adventure a backdrop of snowcapped peaks and US $10 return trip) or colectivo (S/. 1.6 terraced hillsides. or US $0.50 each way) to Paucarpata If you’re looking for more and then Sabandia from Arequipa, or comfortable accommodation, it’s just walk (around two hours).

39 THE HIGHLANDS Lake Titicaca Spanning the borders of Peru and Bolivia, Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake at 12,507ft (3,812m). The region is famous for its islands and

crystal-clear waters as well as its Contents festivals and archaeological sites.

Uros The floating Uros islands are one of the main reasons tourists flock to

Lake Titicaca. These islands are made Overview from totora (a type of reed) and are about an hour’s boat ride from Puno. Lake Titicaca from Taquile Island They were originally built by the Uros people, although most of the remaining members left in the 1950s. almost extinct society in an amazingly The CoastThe Nowadays locals of Aymara origin picturesque landscape. The trip is These run the islands and maintain the old three hours long (one hour on-site) islands are traditions, making their boats and and costs S/. 40-50 (US $12-15.50). made from even their homes from the reeds and totora (a creating brightly colored handicrafts. Amantaní

type of Highlands The Despite an obvious lack of Three hours by boat from Uros on the reed) and authenticity, the Uros islands are a other side of the Capachica peninsula are about an completely unique spot in the world, is Amantaní island, where visitors can hour’s boat where you can immerse yourself in get a breathtaking view of the snowy ride from the daily lives of an incredible and Bolivian mountain peaks. Puno. With the vivid blue of the lake, the island’s stony ground, and the Amazon The rural look of some of the houses, the town has the feeling of a small village along the Mediterranean coast. It’s a completely timeless, stress-free place where there’s not much to do but contemplate the landscape and Adventure countless quinoa fields – and a few solar panels! To get here, it’s advisable to book Handicrafts on the Uros islands

Ellen Hall a two-day, one-night trip with an

40 THE HIGHLANDS overnight homestay on Amantaní. This tour includes Uros and Taquile. Prices from S/. 120 (US $37).

Taquile Three hours from Puno and one hour away from Amantaní, the island of Taquile is equally impressive. The Contents road from the port to the center of the village takes your breath away (in Houses on Taquile Island every sense of the word, for people who are not used to physical effort at altitude). $12-18.50), but there’s also the option Avoiding Sunburn Known for its artisanal cloth – of boarding a colectivo going from and Heat Overview the women do the weaving, the Puno to Jaliaca (S/. 3 or US $1) and Exhaustion men do the knitting – Taquile is asking to be let off at the crossroads Peru is situated generally a bit livelier than the other for . From here, you must near the equator, which means the islands. Taquileans are also famous take a second colectivo (S/. 3) then pay effect of the sun for distinguishing their relationship the S/. 10 (US $3) entrance fee for the is much stronger The CoastThe status through their dress (the color Sillustani site. than you would and placement of hats, skirts, and experience in latitudes further tassels all have their meaning) and Festivals in Puno south or north. for promoting living together before Exploring Lake Titicaca isn’t just about Wherever you go marriage. You can visit Taquile in one touring the islands – Puno is known for in Peru, be sure to day, with a stop halfway in Uros, for S/. being one of the most vibrant towns protect yourself Highlands The from sunburn, 80 (US $24.75). of Peru. Almost every month, a festival or worse, heat or other celebration takes over the exhaustion or Sillustani streets. heat stroke. This is particularly This enigmatic pre-Inca archaeological Puno Week in early November important at high site is on the shores of striking Umayo recreates the city’s mythical creation, elevations, because Lagoon, only 45 minutes from Puno. when Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, there’s less of the Amazon The It’s known for its cylindrical funerary son and daughter of the Sun God, earth’s atmosphere to block the towers called , built by the rose from the lake to found the Inca sunlight. ancient Colla people as burying places Empire. But the biggest of them all is Always wear a hat for their nobility. The finest of the the Virgen de la Candelaria, a Catholic and sunglasses, chullpas were constructed without festival which has been given Intangible apply broad

spectrum Adventure mortar and taper outwards from Cultural Heritage status by UNESCO. sunscreen (SPF 30+ the base, like a funnel – an unusual Held in early February, this event or higher), and wear building style. includes the energetic diablada puneña, light, long-sleeved clothing – even on The simplest way of getting here is with dancers extravagantly costumed overcast days. with a tour operator (S/. 40-60 or US as angels, demons, and a sacred condor.

41 Contents Overview The CoastThe

THE Highlands The HH

AMAZON Amazon The

he Amazon rainforest acts as the lungs of the planet, soaking up carbon dioxide and pumping out sweet Toxygen. The Peruvian Amazon is astonishing in its biodiversity – it’s home to over 14,500 species of animals, Adventure making it a must-visit for lovers of wildlife.

42 THE AMAZON Exploring the Selva Covering more than half of Peru, the Peruvian Amazon can be roughly divided into three different areas; the southern, central, and northern selva Contents (jungle).

Madre de Dios and the southern selva

Puerto Maldonado, the capital of Overview the Madre de Dios region, can be accessed by air and road from Cusco. Macaws at clay lick, Madre de Dios Most visitors come to this remote but bustling frontier town just to enter the jungle. tribes living in relative isolation. Some

Responsible CoastThe In the Reserva Nacional Tambopata, jungle tours will include a brief visit to tourism you can visit incredibly biodiverse one of their villages. Tourist initiatives rainforest, easily reachable from are one of the best ways of protecting many of the lodges around Puerto Manu National Park the rainforest Maldonado. Don’t miss the macaw This UNESCO-certified park in the and creating jobs clay licks, which attract huge numbers Madre de Dios region is one of South for local people. Highlands The of these colorful parrots and other America’s best locations to observe Provided you choose a reputable animals, and the hike to Sandoval Lake. tropical wildlife. operator, you are Also within easy reach of Puerto The park covers an area of almost helping to protect Maldonado are several indigenous 7,722 mi 2 (20,000 km2), and has some the Amazon by visiting on a wildlife- of the greatest biodiversity on the watching tour. The Amazon The planet, with a dizzying array of bird Please show respect and animal life. Trips to the reserved to indigenous zone are more expensive, but offer a people and their way of life, ask much better chance of seeing wildlife. before taking Cheaper tours are available in the photos, do not hand “cultural zone,” which still have good out sweets (as there wildlife watching and are ideal for is no dental care Adventure here) and be kind budget travelers. Costs vary, but range at all times – a smile from S/. 320-965 (US $100-300) per goes a long way day, for itineraries from four to nine towards defusing Cruising an oxbow lake in Manu National Park most situations.

Ellen Hall days.

43 THE AMAZON

speakers, and even lederhosen (on special occasions) are not what you might expect in the Amazon!

The northern selva This is the only area in Peru where it’s possible to visit the actual Amazon river and not a tributary, meaning there’s Contents wildlife here which isn’t found elsewhere, like the rare pink river dolphin. In the region you can also visit indigenous villages such as the Yagua tribe or take a trip to the renowned

Tapiche reserve, around ten hours from Overview Iquitos.

Floating village of Belen Iquitos The main access point to the northern The Chanchamayo Valley selva, Iquitos is the largest city in the The CoastThe This the closest jungle area to Lima, world that cannot be reached by road – and marks the beginning of the Central it’s accessible only by air or slow boat. Selva. The region has good road links, The boat journey from Pucallpa takes and plenty of protected areas for three to five days. Bring a camping birdwatching. hammock with a mosquito net or The town of La Merced has a thriving consider a cabin if you’re traveling alone Highlands The Saturday market – buying the colorful to keep your belongings safe. Just be Safety tips handicrafts here is a great way to support sure to bring a lock. To enjoy the the locals. Amazon in comfort, Iquitos is worth spending a couple of The nearby town of Satipo has a we strongly days in before you head on a jungle tour. daily market, although it’s better on the recommend Check out the fascinating market in the

that you pack a Amazon The weekends. Most backpackers start their floating shanty town of Belen. mosquito net, bug jungle expeditions from either La Merced spray, and patience or Satipo. – getting around Reserva Nacional takes time. It’s also Pacaya-Samiria crucial to bring a Pozuzo decent head lamp. This is Peru’s largest reserve. Most people Further north, Pozuzo is a bizarre mix of In the darkness of visit here on a tour from Iquitos, but you Austrian, German, and Peruvian culture, the Amazon, this can travel to Lagunas independently and Adventure can at most save following an agreement between your life and, at the arrange a guide there for a more DIY Germany and Peru to establish German least, help you find adventure, although costs are still high – settlements in the rainforest in the mid- your way to the at least S/. 240 (US $75) per day excluding toilet! 19th century. Wooden chalets, German accommodation.

44 Contents Overview The CoastThe

The Highlands The HH

ADVENTURE Amazon The

ith sky-high mountain trails to conquer, thundering rivers to navigate, and some of the Wworld’s best surfing, Peru has everything to satisfy the thrill-seeker in you. Adventure

45 ADVENTURE Hiking and Trekking In the mood for a day hike through misty cloud forest to a towering waterfall? Or maybe you’re keen for a multi- day expedition in the sacred Contents Andes? Whatever you’re up for, Peru has you covered.

Gocta Falls

Flights from Lima to Jaen City get you Overview into the land of the cloud forests, and then a three-hour drive to Cocachimba Gocta Falls will see you at the base of your trek. Here you can hire a guide and horses to make your way down to the floor might make the trek a little tougher to The CoastThe of this impressive two-tiered waterfall navigate. Adventurous (2,531ft or 771m high). There’s an travelers alternate route from the village of San Yumbilla Falls can try Pablo to the upper section of the fall. There’s an even taller waterfall to check canyoning The hike takes just over two hours out in the area, located in the village of

here, Highlands The each way through lush, old-growth Cuispes, 15 minutes outside of Pedro rappelling forest filled with colorful birds, Ruiz. The falls are 2,936ft (895m) high, down the butterflies, and hidden orchids – the with spectacular views on the hike side of falls provide a stunning backdrop for there. In this primary forest, you’ll also one of the enjoying a packed lunch. There are pass the waterfalls of Medio Cerro smaller some steep sections, and switchbacks and Cristal before reaching the mighty waterfalls. and mud can make parts of the trails Yumbilla. Amazon The slippery. But this is an enjoyable hike for Adventurous travelers can try people of most fitness levels, and with canyoning here, rappelling down the horses to handle the toughest parts it’s side of one of the smaller waterfalls. accessible to a range of walkers. Keep This is an exhilarating activity, but be your eyes peeled for the bright-red sure to hire an experienced guide with cock-of-the-rock, the national bird of quality equipment and safety protocols. Adventure Peru. When to go: Again, the rainy season Best time to go: During the rainy means more dramatic waterfalls, but season November to April, the falls will it can make more adventurous hikes be at their most impressive, but this unwise.

46 ADVENTURE

Packing for your hike Contents Day hikes Be sure to pack: good walking shoes, a rain poncho, layeredFox Glacier clothing for

changing weather Overview conditions, Ausangate sunglasses, hat and sunscreen, water bottle, snacks Ausangate one of the few trails that allow horses. or lunch, insect repellent, and a Also known as the “colorful mountain”, Most tours start in Cusco and drive

camera. CoastThe this stunning range can appear southeast to Tinki. Prices range from Multi-day treks striped with reds, yellows, and even S/. 1,682 or US $520 (nine trekkers For longer hikes, turquoise. The trek here is one of the minimum) to S/. 3,882 or US $1200 be sure to pack: most scenic, challenging, and highest- (two trekkers). A quality daypack with extra altitude hikes in Peru. clothes, sunglass The Highlands The Tour companies offer treks ranging Vinicunca (Rainbow) and sunscreen, from three to seven days, but the most Mountain compass, water bottle or bladder, spectacular involve, at minimum, a The much-photographed Vinicunca knife, first-aid kit, five-day circuit from a starting altitude (aka “Rainbow”) mountain, with its and good hiking of 12,464ft (3,800m). From there, the naturally striated, multi-colored hues, boots. Hiking sticks are invaluable for trail ascends to over 17,060ft (5,200m) has been surging in popularity due steep climbs and The Amazon The and negotiates three hair-raisingly high to its Instagram-worthy scenery and descents. If you’re passes. proximity to Cusco. camping, you may Unlike the Inca Trail, no permits or It can be reached by a combined also need a sleeping bag (choose one guides are needed, and you’ll likely Vinicunca-Ausangate trek or on a long that’s lightweight meet only a smattering of other hikers day trip from Cusco. but warm enough as you traverse glacier-capped peaks, If you opt to do the standalone for nights at high

elevation), and an Adventure high alpine lakes, and valleys full of trek to Vinicunca, be aware that it’s inflatable mattress alpacas and llamas. a strenuous hike with a maximum or sleeping mat. As well as basic campsites, trekkers elevation of 16,470ft (5,020m). Don’t A flashlight or can sleep at one of four upscale lodges attempt it unless you’ve properly headlamp is also a must-have. (tambos) or in basic huts. This is also acclimated beforehand.

47 ADVENTURE Surfing Peru may well be the birthplace of surf – ancient artifacts show indigenous Peruvians riding waves in Huanchaco before the Polynesians were surfingalaias in Hawaii. Contents

Peru draws wave worshippers from Surfing off the coast of Lima around the world to its 1,500mi (2,414km) coastline, and there are waves for all levels along its shores. The best Beach surf school are a must. swells hit October to March, and except South of Mancora are the real waves. The region’s Overview for up north, it’s wetsuit water. Here Los Organos hosts endless lefts; El Ñuro resident are some of the country’s top surfing too. Cabo Blanco is home to the Peruvian surf and destinations. Pipeline – a powerful left-hand reef break party town, whose barrels are likened to Hawaii’s Mancora, The Central North famous wave. Then comes Lobitos,

is often CoastThe Chicama, also known as Puerto possibly the best surf spot in Peru. Its likened to Malabrigo, is home to the world’s longest combination of offshore winds, few Tamarindo in rideable left-hander. If it’s connecting, crowds, and multiple peaks means there Costa Rica. you can literally surf this cold-water are almost always waves to be had, from break for more than a mile (1.6km). Just heavy barrels at el Hueco and the Point north is Huanchaco, Peru’s birthplace to perfect lefts at Mueller, Piscinas, and Highlands The of surfing. 2,000-year-old clay pottery Baterias. depicts Peruvian fishermen riding their reed boats on Huanchaco’s waves – you Lima and surrounds can still see some in action in the water. Not to be left out is Peru’s lovable capital city. Beginners can rent boards at Playa The North Coast Waikiki and paddle out at Punta Roquitas Amazon The The region’s resident surf and party by the Miraflores Boardwalk or head to town, Mancora, is often likened to La Herradura in Chorillos, a pumping left- Tamarindo in Costa Rica. With easy hander that’s the pride of city dwellers. waves, warm water, and an endless Just south of Lima is Playa Hermosa, nightlife, it’s easy to see why many home to quality rights at Punta Rocas travelers get stuck here. 45 minutes and the famed Pico Alto, an experts-only Adventure north is laid-back Zorritos, a surf-lover’s wave that’s one of the biggest in South paradise with natural hot springs and America. When the swell is right, you can medicinal mud baths to boot. If you’re watch big-wave riders get towed out to new to the waves, lessons with Coco 20ft (6m) monsters.

48 ADVENTURE Rafting and Kayaking Peru offers a multitude of spectacular rafting and kayaking opportunities, whether you’re new to white-water sports or are a die-hard fanatic. Contents

The most important thing to do before you hit the water is find a reputable, experienced rafting company and guide. Check online reviews and Overview ensure that the equipment is in good condition before you book – don’t head Kayaking, Lake Titicaca out with someone who approached you from the shadows! impressive Cotahuasi Canyon, the The CoastThe Rafting near Arequipa world’s deepest canyon and a marvelous An The Río Chili is the most popular place of twisting rock formations and adventure local river for backpackers. A half-day challenging Class IV and V rapids. here is for beginner’s trip leaves daily from March An adventure here is for experienced experienced to November, costing around S/. 81 (US rafters only, as you’ll spend ten days on

rafters only, Highlands The $25) per person. the water. You can organize this from as you’ll From Arequipa, tours also head to Arequipa but be warned, it will set you spend ten the Río Majes, famed for its gentle back around S/. 9,700 (US $3,000). You days on the Class II and III rapids. You’ll get a can get this price down if you bring your water. chance to visit the petroglyphs of Toro haggling A-game. Muerto on the way. You can also have a homestay Rafting near Cusco Amazon The experience in the nearby village of The Río Urubamba is very popular for Aplao and arrange white-water tours rafting. Day trips run every day starting from there. It’s a tad cheaper – an from around S/. 160 (US $50) per afternoon on the water will cost person. The river is relatively tame and around S/. 65 (US $20) a person. is a good bet for beginners. Tours run all year round. Adventure Rafting the Cotahuasi Canyon If you choose to do the Inca Jungle If you’re looking for extreme Trek to Machu Picchu, one day will adventure, a few companies offer feature white-water rafting on the multi-day rafting adventures on Urubamba.

49 ADVENTURE

with prices starting from around S/. 9,700 (US $3,000) per person. If you’re While this trip is expensive, it’s well traveling in worth it for the once-in-a-lifetime Peru, you’ll experience of drifting through the almost Amazon and camping out amid the certainly sounds of the forest. visit the

legendary Contents Kayaking Lake Titicaca Lake If you’re traveling in Peru, you’ll almost Titicaca. certainly visit the legendary Lake Titicaca. It’s possible to explore this White-water kayaking incredible place by kayak, departing

from Puno or Chucuito. Kayaking on Overview You could also visit the Río the world’s highest navigable lake is a Apurímac, famed for its challenging special experience, but remember that rapids scaling from Class III all the the elevation will make any physical way up to Class V in places. The river activity much harder than usual, so runs through stunning scenery – deep take it easy and do not do it hungover! The CoastThe gorges, tropical rainforest, and vibrant Rentals start from S/. 39 (US $12) valleys – and you should have a good per hour. Tours including a visit to the opportunity to spot some wildlife floating reed islands vary from S/. 160- drinking from the river banks. 390 (US $50-120). Tours are usually three or four days and generally only run from May to Kayaking and rafting Highlands The November. near Lima Sea kayak tours are available from Lima Rafting in the Amazon for S/. 226 (US $70) per person. For a wilder trip, head to the Class IV Lunahuaná is off the usual gringo rapids of Río Tambopata. trail, despite its location just three You need to plan this in advance hours’ drive from Lima, and is great Amazon The as tours leave on a few set dates in for kayaking (Class I or II) and rafting July and August, or on request from (Class II to +IV). Different stretches of March to November. The route starts the Río Cañete are used depending in , close to Lake Titicaca, on the season, so rafting is usually and passes through the Tambopata available all year, although peak season Reserve in the vibrant Amazon, ending is from December to April. Rafting Adventure in Puerto Maldonado. companies in town offer various tours On this ten-day tour, you can see for beginners and more experienced some incredible wildlife in the reserve rafters, with prices ranging from S/. 49- and camp on the banks of the river, 97 (US $15-30).

50 Essential an insurance policy that covers it is a good idea. You aren’t Insurance Tips able to Canyoning upgrade your If you’re heading to Peru, Unfortunately, there’s no cover for policy after chances are that you’ll either Australians or Kiwis. However, residents it’s been end up hiking, surfing, or from all other countries can be covered bought, so canyoning. We’ve created this for canyoning. This means your medical

make sure Contents short guide to let you know expenses, medical evacuation, and you’ve got how to get cover, where cover transport expenses home can be it right from applies, and where it doesn’t. covered up to the limits in your policy. the start. If you’re banged up and transported Surfing home, you’ll need to have access

If you’re intending to go surfing on to government healthcare, private Overview your trip to Peru, all World Nomads’ healthcare, or a way of funding ongoing travel insurance policies (Standard or on treatment, as cover stops as soon Explorer) cover surfing. This means as you’re home. World Nomads policies you don’t have to pay an additional are travel insurance policies, not health premium to cover it when you’re buying insurance. The CoastThe a policy. However, this doesn’t mean If you read through our helpdesk, that you can throw all caution to the you’ll be able to find out which policy wind. For starters, you shouldn’t be you need to select and what the exposing yourself to needless risk – for conditions are before you buy the example, attempting monster waves policy. Of course, the policy wording when you’ve only just started learning, will guide you on what’s covered and Highlands The offshore surfing when you can barely what’s not, so it’s essential you read swim, or riding in the 50-Year Storm that as well before you buy a policy. at Bells Beach. If you do, there are You aren’t able to upgrade your policy exclusions in the policy, and chances after it’s been bought, so make sure are any claim that arises from those you’ve got it right from the start. activities will be declined. Weather Amazon The It’s a good idea to look at the limits Hiking and Trekking safety Weather conditions in each policy so you know how you’re Apart from planning for the weather in Peru can change covered, not only for medical costs (and packing correctly), you’ll need to quickly, so it’s and evacuation (in case you get so know the altitude that you’ll be hiking/ best that you’re badly banged up we need to bring trekking to in Peru, so that you can prepared. Search

and rescue isn’t Adventure you home), but also for cancellation buy the correct level of coverage at covered in any of expenses, baggage, and all of the the time of purchase. Many parts of our policies, so other applicable benefits. Medical Peru are thinly populated and remote, make sure you know where you evacuation is expensive no matter which can make it difficult to get help are at all times. where you are in the world, so having if you don’t have insurance. If you get

51 altitude sickness or you’re injured on the mountain and don’t have the right insurance (or any insurance, for that matter), a heli-evac to get you to medical care can be very expensive. World Nomads travel insurance policies are designed so that you can choose the right policy for the Contents activities you’re doing, giving you access to the help you need when you need it. If you do get injured in the mountains, it’s essential that you get in touch with our emergency assistance teams straight away, so that they can Overview support you from the time you fall sick or get injured until the time you recover. They’ll be able to help you get to the nearest hospital, and if you’re The CoastThe banged up badly enough, take you home so that you can get the ongoing medical care that you need. However, once you’re home, cover stops, so you’ll need to have access to government health care or your own the level of cover that you’ll need. All Highlands The private medical insurance for those plans are different and may require costs. an upgrade for certain activities. Read If you visit our helpdesk, or read the policy wording carefully to choose through the activities section of the the right plan and/or adventure sport purchase path, you’ll be able to see option for your trip. The Amazon The

All of the information we provide about travel insurance is a brief summary only. It does not include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions and termination provisions of the travel insurance plans described. Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or provinces. Please carefully read your policy wording for a full description of coverage. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised Representative of Cerberus Special Risks Pty Limited (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) and is underwritten by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle (Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited (CN 601851), First Floor, City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork, Ireland. Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of

Nomadic Insurance Limited (License No.1446874), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Limited (05443592) is an Appointed Representative Adventure of Millstream Underwriting Limited (FCA Firm ref: 308584) at 52-56 Leadenhall Street, London, EC3A 2DX, United Kingdom. World Nomads Inc. (1585422), at 520 3rd Street, Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114, USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited and Nomadic Insurance Limited, are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856).

52 Contents Overview

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