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Sir Ernest Satow in Japan, Britain and Europe, 1870-1883, As Seen Through His Diaries: a Chance to Deepen His Knowledge of Japanese Culture and Other Matters

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Sir Ernest Satow in Japan, Britain and Europe, 1870-1883, As Seen Through His Diaries: a Chance to Deepen His Knowledge of Japanese Culture and Other Matters View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Kyutacar : Kyushu Institute of Technology Academic Repository Sir Ernest Satow in Japan, Britain and Europe, 1870-1883, as seen through his diaries: A chance to deepen his knowledge of Japanese culture and other matters 著者 Ruxton Ian journal or IAJS Journal publication title volume 2 page range 35-44 year 2016 URL http://hdl.handle.net/10228/00006804 Sir Ernest Satow in Japan, Britain and Europe, 1870-1883, as seen through his diaries: A chance to deepen his knowledge of Japanese culture and other matters Ian Ruxton Sir Hugh Cortazzi, the notable Japanologist and the company of familyand friends.In addition there former British ambassador to Japan (1980-84), in is a significant European dimension, including the his Forewordto Ian Ruxton (ed.) The Diariesof Sir time Satow spent studying Roman law at Marburg Ernest Mason Satow, 1870-1883 (Kyoto: Eureka University in the summer of 1876, visits to Paris, Press, 2015) states that "in the distinguished career and the very detailed descriptions of German and of Sir Ernest Satow (1843-1929) the years 1870- Italian palaces, art museums and works of art. 1883 were an interlude during which he sometimes These trips, minutely and conscientiously recorded, must have feltthat he was marking time and making gave him many points of reference with which to no progress in life." The 1860s had been a very compare what he saw in Japan. exciting time, described in his diaries and memoir A Thus while Satow may have been less busy with Diplomat in Japan (London: Seeley Service, 1921), 1 work in this period, and the officehours in the Edo/ and in 1884 Satow was promoted to Agent and Tokyolegation were for the most part leisurely, his Consul-General in Bangkok, and then Minister to time was certainly not wasted. It was an opportunity Siam early in 1885, thus achieving promotion from for him to consolidate through travel his already the Consular to the Diplomatic service, a rare considerable knowledge of Japan, and as a bonus it achievement. allowed him to publish a guidebook also. This paper will introduce some highlights from the diaries for the period 1870-1883, in which he Political Matters served as Japanese Secretary, with the local rank of second secretary from 1876.2 While there is less 1) Clan domains replaced by Prefectures about political matters than in the tumultuous 1860s On 31 August1871, Satow got back froma ten-day when the Tokugawa shogunate was crumbling away trip with RO. Adams and Baron Huebner to Fujisawa, to be replaced by the new Meijigovernment, there Odawara and Atami, arriving in Yedo at 6 p.m. to still are many points ofinterest: the Iwakura Mission discover: leaving Japan, and the abolition of clans and 'Great changes have takenplace in our absence. establishment of prefectures (haihanchiken �1'"11 All thehan [clandomains] have been turnedinto �) in 1871; a trip westwards fromTo kyo to inspect ken [prefectures]. Sawa [Nobuyoshi] has been newly built western style lighthouses in 1872; replaced at the F[oreign]. O[ffice]. by Iwakura. Satow's many journeys in the interior; his firsthand Okumahas been reappointed Sangi and Itagaki of witnessing of the start of the Satsuma Rebellion at Tosa3 added to the numbe:r:Inouye Bunda [Kaoru] Kagoshima in 1877; his only trip to Korea in the made Mimbu Taiyu.[�$7(:(1] 4 Other changes Egeria in 1878; his escorting the British Princes are in prospect no doubt. The whole of the Albert and George to the Kansai area in 1881; his daimios dismissed from the office of Chiji participation in the secretariatof the Treaty Revision [governors]ofhan; the daisangi[vice-go vernors] conference of 1882, and so on. and others remain as they were, forthe present.' There are also the periods which Satow spent in On 11 September Adams, Huebner and Satow dined England, including work at the Foreign Office and at Iwakura's, and Adams expressed surprise at the cataloguing at the British Museum, and enjoying change fromhan to ken. 35 lanRuxton On 24 October Satow was invited to breakfast with 'Left Yokohama in the "Thabor" with 6kuma Iwakura Tomomi: [Shigenobu], Yamao [Y6z6] etc. at 4 a.m. 'He spoke about affairs a little. The Change anchored at Tsurugisaki lighthouse5 a little of Han into Ken had not at first seemed possible before seven o'clock. Violent gusts of wind and for 5 or 6 years at least, but events had worked rain. Landed at lighthouse. Weather too bad to in such a way that the Gov[ernmen]t. thought proceed.' they had better take advantage of the tide at On December 3n1 the ship left Toba and 'called at the flood. They had expected bloodshed, of a lighthouse which is being constructed, 6 and course, but had been agreeably disappointed. then to Matoya where there is another light, in There had been a little disturbance in Geishiu the hands of Japanese lightkeepers. Left about [Western Hiroshima], but he believed it was noon.' over. Kurume of course was discontented, and there was also some dissatisfaction in Satsuma. On December 5th the ship called at Tomagashima 6sumi no K[ami]. [Shimazu Hisamitsu] & lighthouse, a fixed light of third order with one Saigo [Takamori] were however unanimous as European lightkeeper. Later that day 'landed at the to the necessity of concentrating the power in lighthouse on the point opposite Akashi.' one place & Ijichi ShOji [ofSatsuma] is working On December 6th the ship arrived at Nabeshima well.' in Sakaide on Shikoku island, first lit in November 1872. Satow noted: 2) Iwakura Mission 'The island is small and the whole top is On 16 November 1871 Satow got some news of the devoted to the lighthouse. Scotch mechanic mission: and wife full of violent prejudices against the 'Iwakura dined; the embassy [mission] to Japanese whom she cannot [illegible word: Europe is to start Dec[embe]r. American mail. abide?]. The idea of her little boy learning the Himself, Kido and Okubo as Principal & language seemed to shock her violently. Grey Secondary envoys; we advised that the two granite pillars composed of single solid blocks.' latter should be denominated Councillors of On December 9th the inspection continued at Embassy. Yamaguchi, Ito & several others also Tsurushima lighthouse in Matsuyama, and on going.' December 1Qth at Isaki (Hesaki, now in Moji ward, On 26 November: ~dams and I dined with Iwakura. Kitakyushu). The next day they saw Shirasu Discussed the Embassy. They are going to lighthouse on Ainoshima under construction. It was send Ito and Yamaguchi as Vice Ambassadors another Brunton design, first lit on 1 September besides Kido and Okubo, but Iwakura is to be 1873. chief.' After travelling to Nagasaki, the ship returned On 16 December there was a farewell dinner to the and on December 16th it was at Isaki again, which Mission, presumably at the British legation, at was 'a model of neatness. Stationary dioptric which the health of the Mission was drunk. There [refractive] apparatus, red light with white ray.' was a return dinner from the Mission to the Satow left the ship at Kobe and returned to Tokyo Diplomatic Body on December 22nd. overland, arriving on January 14th. 2) Kyoto Travels in the Interior of Japan Satow visited Kyoto (not for the first time) from 1) Lighthouse inspection tour (1872) December 23n1, leaving on 1 January 1873. He Richard Henry Brunton was employed by the walked into the city. Japanese Government to build Western style 'Walked along the Nishi no Kaido (14 miles lighthouses in Japan. In total he designed and built fr[om]. Yamazaki to Kioto) by Yemmioji, Choshi 26 lighthouses. On 29 November 1872 Satow joined (where of three roads take that to the right) Okuma Shigenobu and Yamao Yozo on an inspection Kodara, Obatagawa bridge, Mukomachi, tour heading west: Katsuragawa. At Toji by 3.15 up 6miya dori & 36 The IAJSJournal 2016 Vol.2 Sanjo dori to the Sanjo no Ohashi by four, tried concubines, lived with 30 companions. They Echigoya without success & settled down in used to issue forthat night to rob. Large stone Chakiu, delicious hotel with view of Atago & lantern on the right hand side of sammon in Nishiyama over the town.' front. Pretty view inside of a garden, full of The next day he visited pines. Next to shop of Tanzan, maker of Awata 'Rokkakudo, Mabayakushi (not yet rebuilt), earthenware. Taste degenerating by temporary,Higashi Honguanji, Nishihonguanji, intercourse with foreigners.' Koshoji, fine carvings on gate, the garden at Nishi Honguanji containing the Hiunkaku from 3) Nikko Hideyoshi's palace of Jinrakutei, the exhibition There are many descriptions in Satow's diaries of in the house formerly occupied by the chief travelling, either on foot, on horseback, in boats, in priest of Nishi honguanji & lunched close to a palanquin (kago), or a wheeled jinrikisha or the GojoBridge.' kuruma. Here is a typical account, from the entry He visited Sennyuji :Jiliffic!J:temple in Higashiyama, for 26 September 1874: Kiyomizudera and 'To Nikko walking & kago. Tiffinedat Osawa. 'Then to Chionin7 where the great bell, Coolies 6 sen per ri. Lost a pocket book bigger than that at Daibutsu (which has lately (Hayllar's) with money a little before reaching been taken down & offered for sale) is still Osawa. The municipal officer took great hanging. It is 9.4 Jap[anese] inches thick at the interest in the matter & promised to bottom. From there to the inn I went with the investigate.' guide (old fellow named Kichigoro 63 years old) to Shijo dori for certain books, but could On September 29th the party (Satow and the not get what I wanted.
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