Flight ✈ 38 Vienna / city guide ✈ 49 california / classic hotels ✈ 58 ethiopia / adventure ✈ 66 margaret river / providores ✈ 75 melbourne / blake exhibition ✈ 82 noosa / food & wine Festival ✈ 84 kids’ concierge / Canberra ✈ 87 check-in / seaside luxury ✈ 90 rio de janeiro / perfect day
a view to
Sunset over Stephansplatz, Vienna
Confidently blending old and new, Austria’s riverside capital embraces its rich imperial heritage while fostering innovation and cultivating a cool cutting edge.
words RACHAEL WATTS photography anna rose
38 QANTAS MAY 2014 MAY 2014 MAY QANTAS 40 G tuttgart, E Stuttgart, in P the including commissions of spectacular to aseries thanks design architectural installations. conceptual and furniture multi-use kitchenware, including products innovative V new of the face dimensional industries. arts and fashion V particular, S the and tours palace rides, carriage of architects Adolf L Adolf of architects ustav K ustav Meanwhile, DMeanwhile, Mischer’ studio design Award-winning B ut this is no historical chocolate box. Modern V Modern box. chocolate no historical is ut this limt has left a powerful legacy that continues to inspire. continues that legacy apowerful left has limt ienna has emerged with a fresh image thanks to its progressive technology, design, design, technology, progressive to its thanks image afresh with emerged has ienna Y have called the city home, F home, city the called have E F elugan Meissl Associated Architects (dmaa.at) are right at the forefront of global of global forefront at the right are (dmaa.at) Architects Associated Meissl elugan and classical music to fine art and architecture. S architecture. and art to music fine classical and ilm I ilm long been recognised as a bastion of Mittel-European abastion as recognised long been oos and O and oos of the Austro- of the nce thecentreofpower nstitute in Amsterdam and T and Amsterdam in nstitute tto W tto ienna. K ienna. H agner, and of artists such as E as such of artists and agner, ungarian E ungarian acher T acher atharina Mischer and T and Mischer atharina ranz S ranz T orte coffee-house experience. O experience. coffee-house orte raxler (mischertraxler.com) exemplifies the multi- the exemplifies (mischertraxler.com) raxler mpire, ruled by the H the by ruled mpire, trauss among them. T them. among Strauss Johann and chubert yrolean F yrolean ienna has much to offer beyond horse-drawn horse-drawn beyond to much offer has ienna estival H estival homas T homas gon S ome of E absburg dynasty, V dynasty, absburg chiele, O chiele, all in E in all raxler produce a range of of arange produce raxler high culture, from opera opera from culture, high urope’s great composers composers great urope’s ver the past decade, in in decade, past the ver rl. rl. skar K skar orsche Museum Museum orsche okoschka and and okoschka ienna has has ienna Vienna’s artistic hub artistic Vienna’s Museumsquartier is is Museumsquartier he work he work
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41 Y Y CITY GUIDE VIENNA
Art nouveau, Karlsplatz Stadbahn Station
Known for their striking and imaginative designs, left numerous emblematic architectural examples Hartmann Nordenholz (hartmannnordenholz.com) such as Karlsplatz Stadbahn Station by Otto Wagner, have caught the attention of Björk. Susanne Bisovsky the gold-ornamented Secession building by Joseph (bisovsky.com) melds traditional costume with con- Olbrich, and the Adolf Loos House on Michaelerplatz. temporary couture for a unique Wiener-chic style. Postwar offerings include the Hundertwasserhaus, Vienna Art Week (viennaartweek.at) presents built in the early ’80s by architect Friedensreich exhibitions, performances, lectures and open-studio Hundertwasser, and the futuristic Learning Centre tours each November. Alongside icons such as Franz at the Vienna University of Economics and Business, West, significant Austrian artists such as filmmaker designed by Zaha Hadid Architects. Mathias Poledna, photographer Dorit Margreiter, On the south bank of the Danube Canal, Vienna’s and collaborative performance group Gelitin (gelitin. old town centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage net) continue to impact the world stage. During the site since 2001. Traversing this historic area with its week, the Museumsquartier is a hive of activity. cobblestoned streets and stone fountains, Vienna’s The forward-thinking impulse of the new Vienna charm and cultural significance are hard to ignore. is also represented in Sound:Frame every March- Meanwhile, the Ringstrasse, so named because April (soundframe.at), a festival investigating the it encloses the Innere Stadt, is lined with grand boundaries of sound, music and visual art. It has monuments and ostentatious buildings, including collaborated with the Museum of Applied Arts on a the Vienna State Opera, the National Parliament and wide range of digital art and light installations the Natural History Museum. complemented by electronic music. Of Vienna’s 23 districts, the developing hip zone Vienna’s architecture reveals its storied past, from of Neubau, in the seventh district, is most worth the inner-city Romanesque St Rupert’s – one of its exploring. Away from its busy shopping strip of oldest churches – to the Gothic Revival City Hall and Mariahilfer Strasse can be found streets filled with the grand baroque Belvedere Museum. Art nouveau local design boutiques, stylish cafes and bars.
42 QANTAS MAY 2014 CITY GUIDE VIENNA
STAY EAT & DRINK Do & Co Mraz & Sohn 12 Stephansplatz. 59 Wallensteinstrasse. (01) 535 3969. docohotel.com (01) 330 4594. mraz-sohn.at Opposite St Stephan’s, in the The father-and-son team behind centre of Old Vienna, Do & Co’s this restaurant strive to inspire modern, design-led interiors offer with the most innovative and a stark yet engaging contrast to creative cuisine in Vienna. While the historic surroundings. The sometimes challenging, the views from Onyx cocktail bar are culinary adventure deserves its a welcome reward after a hard Michelin star. The “No Risk, No day’s sightseeing. From ¤249 ($371). Fun” degustation is a highlight.
Hotel Altstadt Hollmann Salon 41 Kirchengasse. Spittelberg. 3 Grashofgasse. (01) 9611 96040. (01) 522 6666. altstadt.at/en hollmann-salon.at/en/eating This boutique hotel in newly Blending old and new without gentrified Spittelberg marries diminishing either, this eatery sits the romance of yesteryear with within the cobblestone courtyard a sensuous modernism. Rooms of the Heiligenkreuzerhof. The and service exude a civilised yet small yet balanced menu brings affable air, much like the city itself. a modern energy to regional and It lies near the Volksgarten, the organic produce. Museumsquartier and shopping district of Mariahilfer Strasse in Steirereck Neubau. From ¤120 ($179). 2a Am Heumarkt. Stadtpark. (01) 713 3168. steirereck.at Sofitel Vienna At this Michelin-starred restaurant Stephansdom in a charming art nouveau building 1 Praterstrasse. within the pristine Stadtpark, head (01) 906 160. sofitel.com chef Heinz Reitbauer elevates the Conceived by architect Jean principles of regionally focused Nouvel, this glass monolith is cuisine to dizzying heights. perched close to the Danube Local ingredients feature heavily, Canal. The development includes including those from the chef’s design shops, two restaurants and farm. Signature dishes include the Sofitel, above which Le Loft braised and roasted milk-fed veal Bar & Lounge affords a panorama with fermented white asparagus of Vienna’s cityscape as well as and elderflower. ceiling frescos by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist. From ¤225 ($335). Puff Bar 10 Girardigasse. Fine food and wine at Schreiners (01) 581 0931. puff-bar.at Hollmann Salon (top and above); hand- 42 Westbahnstrasse. Neubau. Named after local slang for crafted light fitting at 676 475 4060. schreiners.cc a brothel, this hip new bar is Woka Lamps (left) A family-operated oasis in the situated in a former red-light trendy neighbourhood of Neubau, district. Well-executed drinks are Schreiners merges classic and served to a diverse mix of locals, contemporary influences. The partygoers and the occasional five spacious guestrooms are local celebrity in an intimate and simply furnished. The courtyard swanky interior. The quality of restaurant is open to guests and service, while first-class, never casual diners. From ¤101 ($150). feels too exclusive.
44 QANTAS MAY 2014 CITY GUIDE VIENNA
Egon Schiele Self-portrait With Striped Shirt, 1910, part of the Leopold Museum collection (below); Secession Building (right)
more than 120 market stalls. Cafes, MAK Design Shop informal eateries and bars offer 5 Stubenring. a multitude of flavours. (01) 7113 6308. SEE & DO North of the Danube, Heuriger makdesignshop.at Museumsquartier Wieninger is a standout. In this SHOP Attached to the Museum of 1/5 Museumsplatz. relaxed rustic setting, run by one Park Applied Arts and showcasing (01) 523 5881. mqw.at/en of Vienna’s best vintners, Fritz 20 Mondscheingasse. the best of Austrian design, Includes the Museum of Modern Weininger, you can enjoy a glass (01) 526 4414. park.co.at from light fittings to jewellery, Art, Kunsthalle Wien and Leopold of local grüner Veltliner or the Left-field fashion and design, and this collaboration between Alessi Museum, the latter known for its gemischter satz, Vienna’s cuvée. cool minimalist interiors make this and design studio EOOS includes unrivalled Egon Schiele collection. store more of a statement than ingenious wine-tasting glasses with With a range of cafes and bars, it is Volksgarten Pavillon your average retail experience. a sloping rim and capacity for two not only Vienna’s artistic hub, but 1 Burgring (01) 5320907. Labels include Petar Petrov, Acne, wines in the same glass. also a popular meeting place. volksgarten-pavillon.at Haider Ackermann and Ann On the edge of the old city, this Demeulemeester, plus accessories Woka Lamps Heuriger Wieninger public park has picturesque rose by Comme des Garçons. 16 Singerstrasse. m 31 Stammersdorferstrasse. (01) gardens and a monument to the (01) 513 2912. woka.com 290 1012. heuriger-wieninger.at famous Empress Elisabeth, aka Mühlbauer Woka has been hand-crafting useu Vienna has more than 700ha “Sissi”. There’s a casual outdoor 10 Seilergasse. (01) 512 2241. lamps for more than a century.
under vine, making it the only grill, bistro, bar and a nightclub muehlbauer.at From the Secession movement eopold m world capital to produce a with live artists and DJs. This fourth-generation millinery to contemporary styles, it’s a commercially significant amount boutique is managed by Klaus microcosm of Viennese of wine. A surrounding culture Naschmarkt Mühlbauer, who has reinvented design evolution.
has evolved and residents enjoy Wienzeile. (01) 240 555. the 100-year-old brand’s classic age: courtesy L m sharing a tipple at their local naschmarkt-vienna.com designs for contemporary tastes. For airfares and holiday packages to Vienna call heurige (wine tavern). The best In operation since the 1780s, Sold in stores from Milan to New Qantas Holidays on 1300 735 are beside the vineyards and the this Viennese staple of regional York. Brad Pitt, Meryl Streep and 542 or visit qantas.com/
Cobenzl area is home to several. and international produce has Madonna are customers. holidaysaustralianway egon schiele i
46 QANTAS MAY 2014