UNESCO PUBLISHING No. 84 No. editorial WORLD HERITAGE HERITAGE WORLD xxxxxxxxxx. Mechtild Rössler Director of the UNESCO World Heritage Centre xxxxxxxxx. T Cover: XXXXXXXXXXXX Special Issue Special message

Special Message

By Prof Dr habil. Piotr Gliński Deputy Prime Minister Minister of Culture and National Heritage of Poland © xxx

NESCO was born of the most tragic As many as 14 sites representing the diversity and richness experiences suffered by Europe and the of Polish culture and history have been identified as worthy of world. The Second World War cost millions recognition for their Outstanding Universal Value. The sites on of human lives and led to the loss of vast the World Heritage List in Poland include Krakow, a city with cultural resources and the annihilation an unbroken continuity of material culture, and Warsaw’s of entire cities. It was at that time the idea began to emerge reconstructed historic Old Town with the Royal Castle. The that “since wars begin in the minds of men, it is in the minds of beauty of historic Krakow and the power of Warsaw reborn men that the defences of peace must be constructed”, which from the ashes are two important components of Polish identity. was subsequently included in the Preamble to the UNESCO UNESCO’s Memory of the World International Register also Constitution. Poland was among the founding states of the comprises the archives of the Warsaw Reconstruction Office set up new organization and soon joined in its activities. Looking from after the war. In today’s world, marked by the tragedy of Aleppo behind the ‘Iron Curtain’, Poles saw UNESCO as a window onto and the plight of Palmyra, the reconstruction of Warsaw and the world and a platform for the exchange of ideas as well as contacts with other countries. Today, after more than seven decades of extensive international Poland was among the founding cooperation, Poland has the great honour of organizing the states of the new organization and U41st Session of the World Heritage Committee and of hosting soon joined in its activities. Looking representatives of 193 countries around the world, who are from behind the ‘Iron Curtain’, prominent experts involved in the preservation of humanity’s Poles saw UNESCO as a window most valuable resources. It is also a unique opportunity to present onto the world and a platform for our country’s cultural achievements and heritage. Art galleries, the exchange of ideas as well as museums, jazz concerts, open-air exhibitions and film screenings contacts with other countries. are all part of the vibrant cultural landscape of contemporary Poland. Our experience in rescuing cultural heritage has become a well-established tradition. The expertise of Polish archaeologists the painstaking efforts to restore its monuments offer a positive and monument protection specialists has served not only in the message to all those who have lost their cities in war. Indeed, grand project of rebuilding Polish cultural heritage destroyed instead of marking the end of its existence, the destruction of a during the Second World War, but also in rescuing endangered city may become the beginning of its reconstruction. sites around the globe, notably in the Middle and Far East. I hope you enjoy this special issue of the World Heritage Poland’s active participation in UNESCO structures has also left a Review, devoted to various aspects of the preservation of Polish mark in the legal field. The Polish professor Jan Zachwatowicz co- cultural heritage. Let me also take this opportunity to wish authored the Hague Convention of 1954 and designed the ‘Blue all the participants of the 41st Session of the World Heritage Shield’ sign that has become recognizable around the world. The Committee fruitful discussions, a great time, and a memorable ratification of the Convention Concerning the Protection of the stay in Krakow. World Cultural and Natural Heritage in 1976 paved the way for Polish entries on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

8 World Heritage No. 84 Special Message

By Professor Jacek Majchrowski Mayor of Krakow Special Message

© xxx

t was with pride that I learned about the selection centuries. Reminders of the time when it was the Royal Capital of of Krakow as the host city of the 41st session of Poland and the birthplace of Polish literary language, as well as tales the UNESCO World Heritage Committee. I find the of the treasures of Krakow’s libraries and monasteries, intertwine role of host of this exceptional event a truly great with mediaeval heritage brought by settlers from Germany and honour, especially because the mission and values the entire continent of Europe, the creative contribution of the of UNESCO are exceedingly important to Krakow. vibrant Jewish community, and the dynamic social transformations Krakow was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1978 as one in post-war Poland which meld together into combinations and of the very first twelve sites in the world. It is not only an age- an urban narrative found nowhere else in the world. Krakow is old centre of European culture with the priceless and completely preserved fabric of a mediaeval urban complex, a cradle of Polish statehood, and location of the most ancient university The city’s historic fabric reflects a in this part of Europe. It is also one of the most eagerly visited tradition of multiculturalism and tourist destinations in Poland. A city focused on the future, tolerance that has fuelled Krakow’s complementing its heritage with creativity and recognizing culture development over the centuries. as the foundation of its development. The title of European Capital of Culture 2000 and the important festivalI projects initiated at that time marked a symbolic return of the city to its due place in the family of cities – cradles of European a true gateway and a meeting place with the lavish cultures of culture and thought. Since that time Krakow, which boasts a very Central and Eastern Europe, the locus of the flow and the creative dense network of museums and is a living hub of music, film, theatre clash of thoughts best embodied by the figure of Lajkonik – the and literature, has developed new institutions of culture. Thanks to hobbyhorse of Krakow: a local, folk figure impersonating a Tartar the significant concentration of the publishing sector, the spiritual Rider cavorting every year in the city streets to commemorate an patronage of Stanisław Lem and Krakow Nobel prize winners – incursion that took place eight centuries ago, bringing luck to Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska – Krakow has recently locals and tourists alike with a touch of his mace. been recognised as UNESCO’s City of Literature. As a member of the The care for such a rich material and intangible heritage is a special International Cities of Refuge Network (ICORN), Krakow provides obligation on us. Krakow was Poland’s first city to introduce culture shelter to persecuted artists from all over the world, while the park regulations to help safeguard the authenticity and beauty of its quality of its programmes and intersectoral cooperation, intended historic centre. Thanks to the long-term commitment of national funds, to develop a friendly location with thriving diversity, earned the city but also of highly efficient local programmes, we have already revived the IFEA World Festival & Event City title. Contemporary Krakow is a and beautified the historic centre for years, combining diligent care for dynamic academic centre, home to 23 institutions of higher education the past with a daring and courageous outlook towards the future. attended by over 180,000 students. This huge accumulation of I encourage all of you to become familiar with the texts collected talent and knowledge attracts international business, think tanks in this issue, presenting Krakow against the broad background and research projects, having become a significant centre of business of the cultural heritage of Poland. Let them become the best and business support services. encouragement and invitation to visiting our country, and an The city’s historic fabric reflects a tradition of multiculturalism inspiration for a better insight into Krakow itself: the host city of and tolerance that has fuelled Krakow’s development over the the 41st session of the UNESCO World Heritage Committee.

World Heritage No. 84 9 Special Issue Interview

Interview with Prof. Jacek Purchla

Professor Jacek Purchla, Chairperson of 41st session of the World Heritage Committee

World Heritage: What do you see as the contribution of Poland to the World Heritage Convention ? © xxxx

Jacek Purchla: It is hard to be a judge in one’s own case. It seems heritage’ became key. The specific nature of Central Europe also to me that the 41st session of the World Heritage Committee means that its political borders changed much faster than its cultural in Krakow will, in fact, provide the best summary of Poland’s ones. This is the issue of place, of memory, of identity. Indeed, in contribution while carrying out its mandate. First of all, Poland 1990 Poland had three neighbouring countries and none of them has actively participated in the drafting of the UNESCO World Heritage survived to this day. Today, there are seven! At that time, the getting Convention and ratified it as early as 1976. This clearly shows how to know each other, the meeting with ‘the other’, the phenomenon important the Poles find both cultural heritage and its protection. of mutually competing memories, the discovery of the richness and The country’s considerable intellectual and conservation potential heterogeneity of Central Europe, and the synergy brought about by in this area has been reflected in the activity of Polish experts in sharing the experiences and best practices in the protection of our archaeological and conservation missions to various parts of the common heritage accompanied a retreat from our own ‘splendid world, especially the Middle and Far East, as well as Latin America. isolation’ after the difficult lesson of Communism. We are also ready to share our unique experience in reconstruction Today, the ICC is primarily a hub for interdisciplinary studies and and restoration with the whole world. At the 40th session of the international dialogue on the phenomenon of cultural heritage in World Heritage Committee, Poland declared its readiness to organize Europe and the world. a conference on that very subject in the near future. We pay special Herito quarterly published by the Centre (also in English) is the attention to actions aimed at improving the implementation of the voice of Central Europe in matters of what is broadly construed as Convention, which is why we have been particularly active in the heritology, as well as a space for reflection on the place of cultural Committee’s budget and operational guidelines working groups. heritage in the contemporary world. Today, it would be difficult to Currently, Poland is chairing an intersessional ad hoc working group imagine our international cooperation in the regional dimension that examines matters related to Tentative Lists and sustainability alone. The best testimony to that are our publications, and our of the World Heritage Fund, thus reinforcing cooperation between education and fellowship programmes. Over the period of 25 years, States Parties, UNESCO and the Advisory Bodies with a view to our 70 international education programmes have welcomed students better implement the World Heritage Convention. In 2012, Poland from over 70 countries from all continents. The bibliography of our hosted the International World Heritage Expert Meeting on criterion publications has exceeded 5,000 items and contains the names of (vi) and associated values. With the rapidly increasing significance 1,200 authors from all over the world. We find pleasure in sharing of intangible heritage, I have personally focused on synergies our experience and we continually learn from the best practices that between the cultural conventions, as well as to the work on mixed others kindly share with us. nominations, both promoted by UNESCO. WH: Poland has a long history of heritage protection, and WH: Your personal contribution, via the International the 14 World Heritage sites in your country provide very Cultural Centre in Krakow, has focused on European heritage varied insights into the heritage of humanity. Which best – why is transnational collaboration so important? practice cases of heritage would you like to share?

JP: The International Cultural Centre (ICC) emerged from the specific JP: The Salt Mine in Wieliczka, near Krakow, which has been atmosphere of the political overhaul at the turn of the 1980s and operating since the 13th century, was inscribed on the World Heritage 1990s. The change of 1989 was more than just a historic watershed List as far back as in 1978. The uniqueness of the subterranean that brought the period of the Cold War and division of Europe to an labyrinth stretching over nine levels along 360 km (225 miles) of end. It also created some new opportunities for international cultural passageways is also a fruit of pioneering activity in the protection of cooperation. The Centre inaugurated its activity in May 1991 during this exquisite site of technological heritage and in the provision of the symposium of the Conference on Security and Cooperation in access to this place to millions of tourists. Another World Heritage Europe (CSCE) held in Krakow. That was the first great meeting of the site, also situated near Krakow, is a group of wooden churches in countries of the East and West after the fall of the Iron Curtain to be the southern Małopolska Region. They are not only an example of dedicated to cultural heritage, in which the notion of ‘our common the vernacular tradition of mediaeval church building in our region,

10 World Heritage No. 84 but also a symbol of continuity and endurance. They are crucial the Recommendation on Historic Urban Landscapes. These days, far for raising awareness among local communities about the need to more difficult than the inscription of new sites is the enforcement of protect cultural heritage. The pride that the parishioners in places Convention standards in matters related to the management of the such as the villages of Lipnica Murowana, Dębno Podhalańskie, inscribed sites, as well as the preservation of their integrity. and Sękowa take in having their small wooden churches on the

UNESCO World Heritage List is a peculiar phenomenon, and so is WH: Educating young people about heritage and how they Interview the extraordinary dedication of these local communities to preserve can contribute to its conservation is increasingly important. their unique heritage that the world has now come to appreciate. Regional activities are held around the world, and a Youth For it is a fact that the use of social capital in creating, identifying Forum is organized before each World Heritage Committee and protecting cultural heritage is a process that is based on social session. How do you see this developing in the future? links and collective memory, as well as on the reinforcement of the sense of community. A beautiful symbol of the protection of our JP: The essence and value of UNESCO, and, to me, the unique cultural and religious diversity is found in the Churches of Peace of challenge facing the 41st session of the Committee in Krakow, lie the Lutheran communities in Świdnica and Jawor that have been in the fact that we go beyond the European framework and take a meticulously conserved. broader look at heritage issues, while searching for a denominator common to all continents for its interpretation, valuation and The challenge facing the 41st session of the protection. Therefore, I perceive the Youth Forum as an important Committee in Krakow, lie in the fact that element in the construction of a shared platform for a universal we go beyond the European framework reading of the values ensconced in heritage. I would like to make and take a broader look at heritage the Krakow meeting more than just a discussion of procedures, issues, while searching for a denominator today deeply submerged in red tape; it is a return to the roots common to all continents for its since heritage belongs to us all. Education about heritage is the interpretation, valuation and protection. very foundation of its preservation for future generations. The Youth Forum should enable the youngest generation of heritage professionals to identify the most burning issues facing the States Parties to the 1972 UNESCO Convention. WH: Two forums will take place before the 41st session of the World Heritage Committee in Kraków: the annual Forum WH: Poland is the location of sites of memory, including of NGOs, as well a Site Managers’ Forum. The latter is a new the very first such site, the Auschwitz Birkenau German Nazi initiative launched by Poland. Beyond providing valuable Concentration and Extermination Camp (1940-1945). How networking opportunities, what are your expectations from can such sites make a unique contribution to World Heritage? these two forums? JP: The site of the Auschwitz Birkenau German Nazi Concentration JP: The meetings of NGOs accompanying the sessions of the and Extermination Camp (1940–1945) was inscribed on the World Heritage Committee are already becoming an established UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979. The camp was set up by the practice. The Forum of NGOs in Krakow should only reinforce Nazi Third Reich on occupied Polish territories, similarly to other this tradition. Heritage is people – heritage is us: its creators, locations throughout Europe. The Committee, however, decided interpreters, and users. Therefore, the Convention’s efficacy goes that it would be the only site of this type to be listed. The symbolic beyond the diligence of the governments and administrations dimension of this decision was emphasized – to a certain extent it implementing the Convention. The efficiency of our Convention was made on behalf of all other sites of genocide. Thus, the Polish in matters of protecting World Heritage sites is, to a great extent, state assumed a particular responsibility and has fulfilled its duty a function of the social capital accumulated by none other than in an exemplary manner. The Auschwitz Birkenau concentration the non-governmental organizations. What is needed today is camp is the place where nearly 1.5 million people, the great a good rapport between the Committee, as the guardian of the majority of whom were Jews, were exterminated. It is not only a spirit and letter of the Convention, and the NGOs involved in the symbol of the Holocaust, the horror of the Second World War, and protection of the most precious treasures of our common heritage. the brutal German occupation of Poland. It is a warning for all of I do hope that the Krakow meeting will bear fruit in the search for humanity and a duty of shared remembrance. For heritage is, in a better platform for this dialogue. I am also delighted that the first fact, tantamount to our memory and our choice. The Auschwitz site managers’ forum will also be held in Krakow, my hometown. Birkenau concentration camp is also a proof that the paradigms It will be hosted by the Mayor of Krakow. Krakow was the first have shifted, and so has the manner of defining and using the historic urban complex inscribed on the World Heritage List in records of the past for contemporary use. Heritage does not need 1978. At least one-third of the sites on the List are historic centres to be beautiful! The role of memory becomes crucial today, and of cities. Today, they are witnesses to a drastically intensifying clash not only such criteria as truth, goodness and beauty. Therefore, between heritage and development, between the appetites of real the following question should be posed: Is an encounter between estate developers and preservation of heritage. It is by no means a the 1972 Convention and the 2003 UNESCO Convention for the coincidence that the 2011 UNESCO General Conference adopted Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage really imminent?.

World Heritage No. 84 11 Special Issue Architectural landscape The architectural landscape of Poland

Based on the text by Professor Robert Kunkel ???

Warszawa - Central Scout repository.

© Paweł Kobek

12 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue

World Heritage No. 84 13 Special Issue Architectural landscape

Collegiate church of St. Mary and St. Alexius in Tum. © Äì Karczewska / NID

n centuries past, the political was usually set up in the vicinity to provide built of stone blocks, were erected in the dependence of the territories shelter from threats. Małopolska and represent fine architecture lying within Poland’s present- The establishment of a central power derived from Burgundy. Their structure day borders changed numerous and the adoption of Christianity by the already bears features of the early Gothic times. They became the source Piast dynasty in 966 resulted in the first skeleton, while the detail still follows the and destination of numerous migrations, monumental structures, built in the main Romanesque aesthetics. Meanwhile, the making them a treasure trove of heritage fortified settlements. Strong connections brick architecture of the mature Gothic is left by a variety of cultures. Their situation with the Empire of the Ottonian dynasty represented in Pomerania by three grand in Central Europe, at the crossroads of made the Romanesque structures of Saxony Cistercian monasteries in Pelplin, Oliwa and influences emerging from both eastern the model for local stone cathedrals and Kołbacz. and western Christianity, with a significant princely abodes, which have survived only Although brick was already used for the presence of Jews, resulted in a diverse as archaeological relics. Exceptions to this construction of arches and vaults in the society in which religious differences shaped are the rotunda of the Blessed Virgin Mary Mazovia of the mid-12th century, it only a unique cultural mosaic, still clearly visible in Krakow, and the chapel in the monarch’s gained wider popularity in the following in its architectural and urban heritage, mansion on the lake Lednica island – both century among ever more numerous which has survived despite numerous have survived, albeit in ruin. projects, especially in parish churches and Iarmed conflicts. The number of stone Romanesque monasteries of mendicant orders (e.g. the The complex of flint mines in the churches increased rapidly in the late 11th Dominican Church in Sandomierz). Świętokrzyskie Mountains region was and 12th centuries. The basic architectural constructed from approximately mid- designs tended to be drawn from Rhineland Feudal fragmentation 4,000 BC to mid-2,000 BC. In the Iron Age, and northern Italy. The monumental In the mid-12th century, Poland a defensive settlement surrounded by an stone basilicas that have survived in good entered a period of feudal fragmentation, embankment was erected on a lake island at condition include the collegiate churches of characteristic of European states of that Biskupin. Because of the marshy soil, timber Tum, Kruszwica and Opatów, and a handful time. The independent, albeit related, used to form its construction has partly of smaller churches founded by bishops and dukes and princes governing individual survived to this day. The most common lords. provinces lacked the funds to start major villages of the Roman period consisted of The Cistercians, a monastic order, arrived investments. Silesia was the only exception, scattered farmsteads. A fortified settlement in Poland in the late 12th century. Four with its Collegiate in Trzebnica and the early surrounded by a wood and earth rampart of their oldest preserved monasteries, Gothic stone choir at the Wrocław cathedral

14 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue

Sandomierz, Dominican Church. Ruin of Polish Mannerist castle Krzyztopor in the town Ujazd. © Nina Gli+Ñska / NID © Jan Nied+›wied+ / NID

(1244). In parallel, large parish churches Although brick was already used for the construction were built in the newly chartered cities, as of arches and vaults in the Mazovia of the mid- were the simple, small but numerous local 12th century, it only gained wider popularity. parish churches in villages, and ducal and knightly residential and defensive castles and towers. Come the 14th century, the Romanesque brick material with stone detail. The many beautiful Gothic brick cathedrals and castles cathedrals of Krakow, Gniezno and Poznań castles that served not only to defend the owned by chapters. The administration were replaced by new Gothic basilicas. In country, but also to house the continually of the Order was concentrated in regular the Krakow cathedral, flat-backed in the expanding administrative network, were brick castles of the vogts and procurators, Cistercian manner, the vaulting over the set up by King Casimir, along with Silesian typically built on the plan of a square, with final bay of the presbytery resting on five dukes, bishops and lords. The establishment an internal arcaded courtyard, combining supports was erected (ca. 1320). This was of new cities gained momentum in the 14th the functions of a monastery with elements the starting point for the development of century, and was not limited to ecclesiastical of a castle. The largest architectural complex the stellar vaulting scheme that would architecture but also provided numerous erected by the Order was the castle in become popular throughout Małopolska, public buildings, notably town halls and Malbork, the Order’s capital. Silesia and Pomerania in that time. market halls and town fortifications. Governed by bishops and chapters, the In the post-classic Gothic era in the south To protect the northern part of the Warmia developed unique, rectangular of Poland, besides the grand parish and Mazovia from attacks of still-pagan plan-type three-aisled hall churches (Dobre monastic churches in Krakow, Wrocław Prussian and Lithuanian tribes, Konrad the Miasto, Olsztyn). Increasing in wealth, cities and the capitals of the Silesian duchies of Duke of Mazovia invited the military Order of Western Pomerania built their parish Świdnica and Brzeg, a group of two-aisle of Teutonic Knights in 1228. It only took churches the size of cathedrals. Worthy of hall churches funded by King Casimir the them a few decades to subjugate territories mention are the churches constructed by Great in the Małopolska deserve special reaching to the Baltic Sea, covering the area Henryk Brunsberg, combining the Central mention. with an efficient administrative structure. European hall plan with an ambulatory and Reduction of the baldachim-like bay Cities, especially Toruń and Gdańsk, were internal buttressing, adorned with lavish divisions of early and classic Gothic led to soon predominantly built of masonry, ceramic detail. the emergence of compact, soaring interiors and seats of new bishops’ metropolises – Late-Gothic architecture became most and structures, which combined ceramic Chełmża, Kwidzyń and Frombork – had prominent in the coastal metropolis of

World Heritage No. 84 15 Special Issue Architectural landscape

Gdańsk, where churches erected on a followed that of Casimir the Great, adding burghers’ townhouses (Kazimierz Dolny). grand scale towered over rows of burghers’ only Byzantine-style painting decoration. A special role was played by Santi Gucci townhouses. The churches made use of The connection of post-classic Gothic with from Florence, the designer of a residence elaborate network and crystal vaulting. The frescoes hailing from Eastern Christianity in Książ Wielki (1585), which may be the most prominent structures, dating back to (collegiate churches in Wiślica and oldest axial residence of the ‘between the 16th century, are the Town Hall of the Sandomierz) is perhaps unique in Europe. courtyard and garden’ type in Poland. Main City, the late-Gothic utility buildings Nonetheless, early on in the 16th century Cities of this period were surrounded with and a number of city gates, notably the two- successive monarchs reached, especially roundel and bastion fortifications, usually towered Żuraw, housing a lifting crane. The through their Habsburg spouses, for the complementing former defensive walls. standards of art used in Gdańsk, especially models of ‘Roman’ imperial and papal art. Commanding special attention among the vaulting and the brick detail, were also As a result, besides Hungary, Poland was these is the embodiment of the Renaissance adopted by the neighbouring regions of the only country of trans-Alpine Europe to concept of Zamość, an ideal city established Prussia, Mazovia and western Lithuania, take over the Renaissance in its original, from scratch for Chancellor Jan Zamoyski. although on a much reduced scale. pure Florentine-Roman edition. Eminent Mannerism showed a different face in the The increasing danger of Turkish examples of the use of the style include Pomerania, especially in Gdańsk in the late invasions of the late 15th century made the the rebuilding of Wawel Royal Castle, and 16th and early 17th centuries, where public cities of Silesia and the Małopolska modify especially the domed sepulchral Chapel utility buildings such as the Grand Arsenal their fortifications, adjusting them for the of the Jagiellonian dynasty in the Krakow and the Town Hall of the Old City were use of firearms, while the ecclesiastical Cathedral, and the Cathedral Basilica in constructed, among a plethora of burghers’ masonry architecture of the 15th century Płock. townhouses, drawing their forms from in the Małopolska was reused in a reduced Flemish and French architecture of the time. form. A fair number of wooden churches Mannerism and the Baroque At the same time early Baroque arrived from the period, with internal furnishing By the end of the 16th century, the in Poland, mostly thanks to the kings of the and paintings, have also survived to this day Mannerism style, fashionable since around Vasa dynasty and the Jesuit Order. Many of perfectly preserved. the middle of the century, had generally the plentiful ecclesiastical foundations of When the throne in Krakow was established itself across southern Poland, the counter-Reformation were built for the occupied by the Lithuanian dynasty of represented by magnates’ residential Camaldolese and Carmelite orders. It was the Jagiellons, their architecture initially complexes (Baranów Sandomierski) and also the time of development of the palazzo

Baranów Sandomierski, late Renaissance residence. © Ma+Çgorzata Maksymiuk / NID

16 World Heritage No. 84 in a fortezza-type residence (Krzyżtopór, and garden’ residences (Nieborów, Krasiński of the Saxon Dynasty, the axis of which Wiśnicz) and fortified monasteries (Jasna Palace in Warsaw), and the centrally lies across the natural line of the city’s Góra). In 1569, the parliaments of the planned churches (Warsaw’s New Town development. There was more freedom in Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy and Czerniaków). the establishment of park axes in magnates’ of Lithuania set up a union, developing Beginning in the early 18th century, the residences situated in the provinces, such a parliamentary monarchy known as Baroque arrived in Silesia, at the time already as in Białystok and Radzyń in Podlasie, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. part of the Habsburg Empire. Initially, the sometimes emulated by monasteries and Beginning in 1569, the Mazovian city of style was employed for monastic and pilgrimage centres. That was the time of Warsaw became the main residence of the residential developments of fairly modest numerous wooden, and less frequently Special Issue king and the venue for sessions of the joint architecture, yet grand in scale. In the masonry, single-storey country manor parliament, which resulted in the building 1720s, the style adopted concave-convex houses built by petty and moderately of numerous palaces for noble families in façades of the Borromini type and the wealthy nobility. With time, they would the vicinity. elliptical-domed richly decorated interiors in become the model for the typical home of In the middle of the 17th century, the the huge churches of the revived Cistercian Polish landed gentry, which survives to this wars in the east of the Commonwealth (Krzeszów) and Benedictine (Legnickie day. and the ‘Swedish Deluge’ brought major Pole) orders. Further examples of which, devastation to the country, followed by with certain stylistic simplifications, were Poland’s last king many years of stagnation in investments. also built in the region of Lublin. After Despite the complex political In the second half of the century, temples the Peace of Westphalia, the Protestant circumstances, the patronage of the last modelled on the church of Il Gesu in Rome churches built by the rich cities of Silesia, king of Poland, Stanislaus Augustus, featured raised side chapels that gave albeit limited by the Catholic emperors to instigated the consummate interiors of the their interiors, so typical of the Baroque, wood constructions, reached previously Royal Castle, and of the monarch’s private a theatrical quality. One of most eminent unheard-of sizes thanks to sophisticated residence, the palace and garden complex representatives of mature, classicising engineering and construction techniques, of Łazienki in Warsaw. Following the king’s Baroque in Central Europe was Tylman of and boasted lavish internal decoration preferences, aristocrats and landed gentry Gameren, who was working in Poland in (Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica). also began developing their numerous the last quarter of the 17th century. His Leading among the palace-and-garden country residences in the convention of main works include the ‘between courtyard complexes was the Warsaw residence Palladio’s and French classicism. At the

Wilanów Palace Façade - Baroque Royal Residence In Warsaw. © Paweł Kobek / NID

World Heritage No. 84 17 Special Issue Architectural landscape

Archcathedral Basilica of The Holy Trinity, Blessed Prince’s Hall of the Lubiąż Abbey. Virgin Mary and St Bernard in Gdańsk Oliwa © D. Lipska © Tomasz B+Çyskosz / NID time, the replacement of wood with streets of the developing cities followed the and members of the board, many of which masonry in churches continued, financed by standard of Central European historicism, feature rich historic-style decor. rural parishes, a process enhanced by the sometimes applying fashionable Art increasing wealth of the landed gentry and Nouveau details in the 19th/20th century. From World Wars to peasants. The location of Poland on the border of the 21st century In the last quarter of the 18th century, the three empires resulted in the construction Major destruction came in the wake territory of the Commonwealth was taken of major complexes of fortifications. The of the First World War, not only directly over in stages by neighbouring powers: fortresses of Srebrna Góra and Kłodzko connected to military activity but also to the Russia, Prussia and Austria. Despite a were built in the third quarter of the 18th consciously applied ‘scorched earth’ policy. number of national uprisings, Poland did not century in the Silesia. The Russian bastion After Poland gained its independence, and regain its sovereign statehood until after the fortresses in Warsaw, Modlin and Dęblin, its state borders were finally confirmed, the First World War, although throughout the and the Prussian fortress Boyen in Masuria following two decades (1918–39) saw the 19th century Polish territories retained their date back to around the mid-19th century. construction of governmental buildings and architectural and cultural distinctiveness, Begun when the Napoleonic wars were banks, necessary for modern administration especially in residential construction and still raging, they provide an example of in Warsaw and other large cities. They Catholic churches. Numerous structures contemporary state-of-the-art solutions in were built in the monumental modernist serving culture, administration and transport fortification. style, although a return to the historicising infrastructure, including toll houses, inns The 19th century brought about the ‘national’ styles was eagerly embraced in and later also railway stations, were built development of industry, with the metal the case of school buildings and railway from the beginning of the century. They ore and hard coal mining industry in Upper stations. Other projects included housing were built in neoclassical style and following Silesia, and the textile industry evolving estates and major urban developments, different stylistic transformations, they in Łódź, being the most noteworthy. Its among them the construction of the received historic forms. In opposition to the remnants are the large-sized structures of new city and port of Gdynia and the new structures built by government, private villas production halls and technical facilities, housing complexes in Warsaw. Beginning and residences as well as Catholic churches complexes of workers’ settlements in the late 1920s, the avant-garde yielded frequently used various standards drawn composed of typical single-family houses, to the visible influence of Le Corbusier’s from history. Tenement houses lining the and villas for the owners, management architecture. Projects from the 1930s

18 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue

University of Warsaw Library in 2000. © Wies+Çaw St-ôpie+Ñ

It was only in the mid-1990s that the prevailing conditions more interesting architectural developments allowed Polish architects to take up the challenge posed to be designed, for example the ‘eastern by world trends in architecture and technology. wall’ of Marszałkowska Street in Warsaw. Standing proud above this backdrop are the modernist office blocks by Marek Leykam and renowned large commercial represent high-quality functionalism and forced collectivisation of the countryside, constructions (Supersam in Warsaw), sport academic constructivism connected with the numerous manor houses of the landed facilities (Spodek hall in Katowice) and the architects of the so-called Warsaw gentry fell into ruin. Reconstruction of cities railway stations. Some of the churches built School. This was a time of interesting after wartime destruction began in places in large numbers since the 1970s were less construction solutions, e.g. the Prudential such as Warsaw, Gdańsk and Wrocław, threatened by bureaucratic interventions skyscraper in Warsaw and the Bridge on with special attention being given to their of the state and represent interesting, the River Słudwia in Maurzyce (1928), historical centres. Offices and complexes usually post-modernist forms. It was which was the world’s first fully welded of public buildings of the socialist realism only in the mid-1990s that the prevailing road bridge. period were developed in parallel, like the conditions allowed Polish architects to In the wake of the Second World War, Marszałkowska’s Housing Estates (MDM) take up the challenge posed by world Polish people from the eastern territories in Warsaw and the city of Nowa Huta trends in architecture and technology. This taken up by the Soviet Union in 1945 (Krakow). A socialist realist skyscraper, resulted in the creation of several unique were resettled on lands abandoned by the spitting image of similar structures in edifices, notably the University of Warsaw retreating Germans, which represent Moscow and Saint Petersburg, was erected Library. The last quarter of the 20th and today’s western Poland. Some local in the centre of Warsaw. the beginning of the 21st century brought Protestant churches were taken over by After the fall of Stalinism, in a country about the filling-in of city centres with the Catholic Church, while others, bereft where the state remained practically the high-rise structures: office buildings and of care, remained in neglect. After the only investor until the 1980s, the need for hotels, whose aesthetic qualities do not extermination of the Jewish people by intensified residential housing construction as a rule go beyond those of glass cubes, the German Nazis, only a few synagogues resulted in the mass development of cities although even this group includes more and houses of prayer remained. After the with uniform blocks of flats. It was rare for remarkable sites.

World Heritage No. 84 19 Special Issue History of protection and guardianship Introduction to the History of Protection and Guardianship of Cultural Heritage in Poland

Dąbrówka Lipska National Heritage Board of Poland

Medieval Town in Toruń, Old Town Hall,

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

20 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue History of protection and guardianship Special Issue

World Heritage No. 84 21 Special Issue History of protection and guardianship

he earliest examples of on documenting monuments. In 1909, site as a monument would be taken on a how memory of the past the Society organized the first conference case-by-case basis, looking at the value of was cherished in Poland are of conservators in Warsaw. It was agreed a given property. connected with religious that actions targeting monuments must be The inventory surveys and various types practice, in particular the limited to ‘simple repair and replacement of of research on historic buildings in the Catholic faith. From the Middle Ages, damaged parts with new ones, insofar as it interwar period produced documentary reverence and care were shown for churches is necessary for preserving the monument material that was priceless shortly after the and the religious images and tombstones as a whole.’ It was also assumed that during Second World War, when Poles were faced that adorned them. They were preserved by restoration work materials and techniques with the task of rebuilding their country, successive generations for many centuries. characteristic of the monument should be devastated by Nazi Germany. Over time, the values of such relics of the used. In July 1945, the General Inspector of past began to be a source of identification Monuments formulated a general policy and were not only religious in of architectural monuments nature. This is illustrated by the conservation, being aware of Gothic form of the storey that the material, but above all the was added to the medieval spiritual needs of a society that Tbuilding of the Old Town Hall had lost its cultural heritage in Toruń (17th century), which on an unprecedented scale. can be interpreted not only In this way, he justified the as an intentional aesthetic need to reconstruct buildings gesture, but intended to stress in a manner preserving their the significance and medieval historic form and the diversity origins of the seat of the City of their styles to reflect the Council. various architectural trends As elsewhere in Europe, prevailing in Poland until the the most prominent changes mid-19th century. in the perception of tangible As early as February 1945, heritage in Poland occurred the Chief Directorate of in the 19th century. The Museums and Monuments emergence of historic revivals, Example of inventory survey coordinated by Kazimierz Stronczyński Protection was set up. Great combined with the effects (1844-1855), Illustration of Cathedral church in Włocławek importance was attached to of accelerated civilizational © D. Lipska the creation of a scientific development during the base. The State Enterprise industrial revolution, led to a clear change in Monuments of art and culture Ateliers for the Conservation of Cultural the attitude of Poles to their past treasures, The above rules formed the core of Property (PP PKZ) were established in thus fostering their commitment to the Decree of the Regency Council ‘On 1950. Comprising a number of specialized protecting them. Efforts were made to raise the protection of monuments of art and teams, the institution was able to carry people’s awareness of their national identity culture’, which was proclaimed in 1918. out interdisciplinary and comprehensive by securing the physical reminders of their The definition of a monument protected conservation and restoration works. nation’s past, so crucial for preserving the by law included urban ensembles, wooden The rich experience gained in this way memory of a motherland, which had lost its architecture, gardens and parks, but also was also widely used by Polish experts independence for 123 years in 1795. ‘folk craft products’. Attention was also during their work in foreign countries, such An important milestone occurred in drawn to the surroundings of monuments as the involvement of Professor Kazimierz 1856, when Krakow established the office and the associated vistas. Further legal Michałowski in saving the Abu Simbel of the Inspector of Monuments of Western solutions were introduced in 1928 (‘Decree temples, one of the earliest international Galicia region. This was integrated with the of the President of the Republic of Poland initiatives to protect cultural heritage under Austro-Hungarian monument protection on the guardianship of monuments’). the auspices of UNESCO. system. With time, a Conservators’ Society These included creating the Register of Polish experts also contributed to creating was set up (1888) – a collegial advisory Monuments, which remains the basic form international organizations and policy body reporting to the Central Commission of monument protection in Poland since documents. The symbol of the Blue Shield, for the Preservation of National Heritage then. The still-existing office of the General sketched by Professor Jan Zachwatowicz, Sites in Vienna. Inspector of Monuments was established is a sign of Poland’s commitment to the In 1906, the Society for the Preservation in the same year to oversee the work of Hague Convention (Poland ratified it in of Historical Monuments was founded in district inspectors focused on taking stock 1956). Polish conservators took an active Warsaw, bringing together enthusiasts of the existing resources. They followed part in the creation of the Venice Charter and professionals. They focused mainly the rule that final decisions to recognize a (1964). The resolution on the establishment

22 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue

The first restoration of Collegium Maius in Kraków were carried on in the years 1839-1858, during which the complex of medieval university buildings was given a uniform “Gothic” character. The current state is inter alia the result of the post-war restoration works in order to adapt it to the Museum of the Jagiellonian University. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

St. Mary’s Church in Kraków: The polychrome was made in 1890-1892 by famous painter Jan Matejko. The first documented The Gothic House in Puławy: In 1809 Princess Isabella Czartoryska created there “stone anthology” renovation of the altar by Wit Stwosz, was carried on in 1866-1871, of mementos from Poland, Lithuania and Ruthenia, consisting of carefully selected artefacts. in the spirit of unity of style - so called “The stylish additions”. © Paweł Kobek / NID © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 23 Special Issue History of protection and guardianship

of the International Council on Monuments Interwar legislation was in force until Monuments (2003), the Act on Museums and Sites (ICOMOS), which was adopted the adoption of the Act on the Protection (1996), the Act on the National Archival at that time, was put into effect at the of Cultural Properties and on Museums Resource and State Archives (1983) and Constitutional Congress in Warsaw and the (1962). In parallel, the Monuments the Act on Libraries (1997). Under current General Assembly in Krakow (1965). Poland Documentation Centre was set up. In legislation, items or sites which are ratified the Convention on the Means response to the growing need for expertise considered to be monuments on account of Prohibiting and Preventing the Illicit in the protection of cultural heritage, of their artistic, historic and/or scientific Import, Export and Transfer of Ownership the following institutions were also value are protected by: being entered in of Cultural Property (1974), as well as the established: the Centre for the Protection the Register of Monuments; being granted World Heritage Convention (1976). In of Museum Objects (1988 – currently the the status of a Monument of History; the the years 1988 to1992, the honourable National Institute for Museums and Public creation of a cultural park; being protected function of the Director-General of the Collections), the Board for the Protection in local spatial development plans. International Centre for the Study of the and Conservation of Palaces and Gardens The centuries-old traditions and Preservation and Restoration of Cultural (1977), and the Centre for Archaeological commitment to the protection of the legacy Property (ICCROM), of which Poland has Rescue Excavations (1995). Three of the of past epochs is reflected in Article 5 of the been a member since 1958, was held by above institutions were eventually merged Polish Constitution of 1997: The Republic of Professor Andrzej Tomaszewski. It must also into a central cultural institution with Poland shall safeguard the independence be remembered that the Polish National branches in each Polish administrative and integrity of its territory and ensure the Committee of the International Council of region, since 2011, named the National freedoms and rights of persons and citizens, Museums (ICOM) has existed since 1949. Heritage Board of Poland. the security of its citizens, safeguard the Poland has been involved in the Memory national heritage and shall ensure the of the World Programme since the 1990s, Current legislation protection of the natural environment and in 2011 ratified the Convention for The 1962 Act was replaced by the pursuant to the principles of sustainable the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural currently applicable legal acts: the Act development. Heritage. on the Protection and Guardianship of

Historic Centre of Kraków, Donors’ bricks at the western gateway to the Wawel Hill. The donors, who supported conservation works, were commemorated in the 1920s with symbolic bricks bearing the names of individuals, institutions or communities © D. Lipska

24 World Heritage No. 84 Theory and management of cultural heritage

The phenomenon of memory

Art and cultural space of Central Europe

Intercultural dialogue

The city as a mirror of civilisations

Cultural politics and economics of culture

Exhibitions

Conferences and seminars

Education programmes

The Academy of Heritage post-graduate studies

Thesaurus Poloniae Fellowship

Publications

The mission of the ICC is to conduct dialogue and interdisciplinary research into culture and heritage in Europe and elsewhere in the world. The ICC is a co-organiser of the World Heritage Young Professional Forum 2017, a companion

INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE event to the 41st Session of the UNESCO RYNEK GŁÓWNY ‰Š, KRAKÓW World Heritage Committee. WWW.MCK.KRAKOW.PL DPS ROMANIA DPS ROMANIA Special Issue Protection of World Heritage Protection of World Heritage in Poland

Katarzyna Piotrowska, PhD National Heritage Board of Poland in Warsaw

Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines was among the first twelve sites inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1978.

© Our Place – The World Heritage Collection

28 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue

Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines was among the first twelve sites inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1978.

World Heritage No. 84 29 Special Issue Protection of World Heritage

he Convention concerning the on the criteria for selecting sites to be common responsibility for World Heritage, Protection of the World Cultural included in the UNESCO World Heritage a mandate which was entrusted to our and Natural Heritage, adopted List and on the first Operational Guidelines country for the second time in 2013. by the General Conference of for the Implementation of the World UNESCO in November 1972 was Heritage Convention, which laid down Our World Heritage List ratified by Poland in 1976. At the time it the foundations for the present-day World In the four decades since Poland’s was being formulated and in the preceding Heritage system. accession to the Convention, out of the years, Poland had been an active member Signing an international agreement nineteen candidatures proposed, fourteen of UNESCO, committed to the instruments entails assuming domestic and international properties representing the breadth of of international law created by the obligations. Poland’s accession to the World heritage in Poland have been inscribed on Organization. Heritage Convention also created such the UNESCO World Heritage List. Poland’s international activity and commitments, including the key aim of Five of them were nominated in 1978. commitment to the protection of heritage identifying sites of “outstanding universal The Historic Center of Kraków and the ensued from the long-lasting experience value” and providing them with adequate Wieliczka Salt Mine [present name: of the Polish people in struggling for the protection, so that they would serve future Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines] preservation of their national identity, as generations with a full set of their values. were added in 1978, among the first Twell as their awareness of the importance Most of the activities in recent years have twelve places in the history of the World of cultural and natural heritage for the been focused on improving heritage Heritage List. In subsequent years, the future of their own country and the world. protection in Poland, benefiting from all other three: Białowieża National Park This is proven by early accession of Poland the guidelines developed internationally for [present name: Białowieża Forest], the to the World Heritage Convention, which World Heritage protection, conservation, Auschwitz concentration camp [present highlights the importance of heritage presentation and management. The name: Auschwitz Birkenau German Nazi of outstanding value and the shared experience gained in protecting World concentration and extermination camp responsibility of all nations to preserve it. It is Heritage sites on a day-to-day basis, as (1940-1945)] and the Historic Center of also demonstrated by Poland’s membership well as the organizational structures built Warsaw were inscribed. in the World Heritage Committee in 1977- so far, help Poland fulfil its mandate on the The activity and commitment of Poland 78, when the elite group was working World Heritage Committee with a sense of on the forum of World Heritage had been

Historic Centre of Kraków, the Cloth Hall. © Piotr Ostrowski

30 World Heritage No. 84 interrupted by the political and economic efforts, including diplomatic steps, to secure local community. The process involves both situation of the country. Following the Old entry on the List. For cultural sites, a crucial people who have the required expertise, and City of Zamość in 1992, another three sites role has also been played by the long- novices in the field of heritage protection, were added to the List in the late 1990s: lasting activity of Polish representatives at with the process itself being an important Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork ICOMOS, the advisory body to the World educational tool helping to promote (1997), Medieval Town of Torun (1997) Heritage Committee, and the very strong protection of heritage and developing the and Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist international presence of Polish experts. social skills of its participants. Professor Architectural and Park Landscape Complex Thanks to this, the successive inscriptions of Stanisław Lorentz, long-time director of and Pilgrimage Park (1999). In recent years, sites on the World Heritage List can be easily the National Museum in Warsaw, who Special Issue further candidates successively entered linked to individual persons who enjoyed dedicated his life to the reconstruction of the List: Churches of Peace in Świdnica high esteem in the community of experts the Royal Castle in Warsaw, believed that if and Jawor (2001), Wooden Churches of dealing with the protection of heritage, you need to protect something, you must Southern Małopolska (2003), Muskauer / notably Professors Krzysztof Pawłowski and involve ordinary people who do it out of Mużakowski Park (2004), and Centennial Andrzej Tomaszewski. love. The current approach to nominations Hall in Wroclaw (2006). Rounding out the In time, the approach to site nomination proves its rationale. list is a property added in 2013 – Wooden has changed. At present, it takes the form When looking at the World Heritage List, Tserkvas of the Carpathian region in Poland of bottom-up initiatives, which, at each it is evident that many of the proposals and Ukraine. stage of the work, engage people who submitted by Poland, in particular those The decisions regarding nominations to are directly responsible for the protection dating back to 1978, were breaking new the UNESCO World Heritage List made in and management of a given property. ground and reorienting the way of thinking successive years have been based on both The nomination dossier and management about heritage and the needs linked to its professional analysis of the resource and plan for a potential World Heritage site, protection. Thus they were an important assessment of the state of preservation of which is a mandatory document required voice in the debate about the character of the individual sites, as well as on knowledge at application stage, is prepared with the the World Heritage List, and the direction of prevailing trends. Preparing a nomination participation of the owners and users, it should follow. Furthermore, they were an for the List has always required presenting an all the heritage protection services, local early indication of the crucial role the World adequate justification and making extensive government and representatives of the Heritage List plays in shaping the approach

The Białowieża Forest World Heritage site, on the border between Poland and Belarus, is an immense range of primary forest. © Mariusz Cieszewski / www.poland.pl

World Heritage No. 84 31 Special Issue Protection of World Heritage

Warsaw.

© Mariusz Cieszewski / www.poland.pl to heritage protection. One idea put forward matters related to World Heritage fall development – if not a turning point – in by Poland was to ensure the protection within the remit of the General Inspector the history of the implementation of the of urban ensembles, which was treated of Monuments. The protection of World World Heritage Convention in Poland. The somewhat marginally during the early stage Heritage properties involves preserving report concerned both the general policy of of the List, and was limited to selected all aspects of their “outstanding universal the state in the field of heritage protection buildings or their settings. Poland’s approach value”, as defined at the time of listing. and the condition of individual World is illustrated by the proposal to list Krakow, It is a complex task which requires the Heritage sites. The process of collecting including its historic town centre and later collaboration of many individuals and and analysing information, as well as the additions. Earlier, Poland had participated in institutions at central and local levels, as preparation of the report itself, including developing UNESCO recommendations on well as a strategic, consistent approach. the related discussion, allowed a number of historic urban ensembles, adopted in 1976. Polish legislation does not envisage special deficiencies to be highlighted. One striking The broad, contextual approach to heritage treatment for World Heritage properties. conclusion concerned was the general lack protection was then taken further in the However, the fact that they are identified of knowledge about World Heritage. One UNESCO Recommendation on the Historic under the ratified international agreement, of the major difficulties noticed was the Urban Landscape adopted by the General which, according to the Polish Constitution, absence of appropriate systemic solutions Conference in 2011. is a source of universally binding law, that would allow one to define the requires the ‘outstanding universal value’ principles of cooperation and ensure the A moment of reflection of those properties to be safeguarded both proper protection of World Heritage sites in on the implementation by central government, local government at accordance with the relevant requirements. of the Convention all levels and specialized institutions, and by At the same time, attention was drawn The initiative to join the World Heritage government agencies, non-governmental to the Convention as an instrument of Convention was proposed in 1976 by the organizations and citizens. Naturally, this international law and to its potential as a Polish Ministry of Culture, which has since requires creating a cooperation platform. tool supporting the preservation of heritage played a leading role in the implementation The beginning of periodic reporting, at national level. of its provisions at state level. Historically, and the preparation of the first report on The preparation of the report, in the principle has been established whereby its realization in 2003-2005, was a major combination with the monitoring conducted

32 World Heritage No. 84 of the Minister of Culture and National

World Heritage Committee Heritage. It includes representatives of key departments and institutions engaged in World Heritage Centre Advisory Bodies the protection of World Heritage in Poland, as well as respected national experts in the protection of cultural and natural heritage. Polish National Commission for UNESCO Ministry of Permanent Delegation Thus, actions were initiated towards of the Republic of Poland to UNESCO Foreign Affairs organizing the World Heritage system in Poland, whereby priority was given to the Special Issue Ministry of Ministry of Culture and National Heritage advisor to the Environment Council of Ministers ordering of matters and strengthening of tools in order to ensure adequate

The Committee for Cultural World protection of World Heritage sites. Heritage in Poland Over time and with growing interest in Polish National STATE PARTY Committee of World Heritage, the solutions adopted in ICOMOS Centre for World Heritage / Focal Point for World Heritage in Poland 2007 become insufficient. Therefore, in National Heritage Board of Poland Secretariat of October 2014, by decision of the Minister of the Committee for Cultural World Heritage in Poland nongovernmental TO THE WORLD HERITAGE CONVENTION organization Culture and National Heritage, the Centre for World Heritage was established in the World Heritage Sites World Heritage Sites natural cultural National Heritage Board of Poland with the purpose of improving conservation and Polish organization for the Convention’s implementation. management of World Heritage properties in Poland. The task of the Centre is to actively support the monument protection by the World Heritage Committee, initiated (wooden churches and towns), and prepare services, local governments, managers a series of activities and projects which, in the monitoring indicators. In addition and government institutions in the a natural manner, significantly improved to specific studies and publications, the protection and conservation of listed and knowledge and perception of the World projects were followed up by another nominated World Heritage properties. Heritage Convention in Poland, and had initiative of the Polish National Committee At the same time, it is meant to be a an influence on present-day rules and the of ICOMOS entitled ‘Developing a model platform for collaboration and exchange methods of its implementation. for the management of UNESCO World of information between government and In 2004, the League of Polish UNESCO Heritage cultural properties’, which ended non-governmental organizations, as well Towns and Sites was set up, bringing in 2016. as a wide range of stakeholders involved together representatives of World Heritage in protection and guardianship of the sites and local government. Then, an analysis Organization of World Heritage sites. The Centre also plays of the results of the periodic report, and the the Convention’s the role of Focal Point for World Heritage resultant expert study on the obligations implementation today in Poland, with all its activities working and implications of being included in the One of the first attempts to institutionalize towards developing a model of effective World Heritage List, which was prepared in the implementation of the World Heritage cooperation. 2008, initiated an organization of regular convention took place in 2003 when the The organizational changes initiated Meetings of the Guardians of World National Center for Historical Monument in Poland ten years ago have slowly Heritage Sites. Another activity which Studies and Documentation (currently: brought about visible results. The brought World Heritage sites together was the National Heritage Board of Poland) popularization of World Heritage and a project named ‘Management of UNESCO was named as the institution responsible relevant organizational arrangements have World Heritage Sites in Poland and for preparing the report in the I cycle of led into increased interest in the subject Norway’, delivered in the years 2009-2011 periodic reporting exercise. Following this, matter and deepened awareness of the by the International Cultural Centre and its as soon as the exercise was concluded, in importance of World Heritage sites, as Norwegian partner. At around the same 2007, the General Inspector of Monuments well as of the growing need to safeguard time, the Polish and Norwegian National instructed the Director of the Center to set them. International rules governing the Committees of ICOMOS, in collaboration up a unit ‘responsible for management conservation and management of valuable with the National Heritage Board of Poland, plans and other matters related to World natural or cultural sites have gradually been carried out a project named ‘Improvement Heritage properties in Poland’. Nearly implemented and are slowly becoming of the existing protection and management simultaneously with the creation of the standard – not without difficulty, however, systems for sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Unit at the National since this requires the involvement of many World Heritage List’. Its aim was to develop Heritage Board of Poland, the Committee stakeholders at different organizational ‘Statements of Outstanding Universal for Cultural World Heritage in Poland levels. Value’ for selected World Heritage sites was set up as a supporting advisory body

World Heritage No. 84 33

Polish National Polish National Commission for UNESCO

Commission United Nations Polski Komitet do spraw UNESCO Educational, Scientific and for UNESCO Cultural Organization Organizacja Narodów Zjednoczonych each Member State, the National dla Wychowania, Nauki i Kultury InCommission ensures the permanent presence of UNESCO in its country and

contributes to the Organization’s effort to Photo: Woźniak D.A. / UNESCO AGH Chair promote international co-operation in the field of intellectual activities (Charter of National Commissions for UNESCO, Article III.1) National Commission for PolishUNESCO is the consultative- advisory body to the Government of Poland in the matters concerning UNESCO, such as the implementation of UNESCO’s Photo: Łukasz Wojtowicz programmes and standard setting instruments in the country and Poland’s contribution to UNESCO’s programme and activities. The National Commission actively participates in the elaboration and presentation of Poland’s position in the debates at UNESCO’s governing bodies and fora, disseminates information about UNESCO, its values and activities, and supports their promotion. In fulfilling its tasks it often plays a liaison role between the Organisation, Polish Government, professionals, other civil society actors and stakeholders. The Polish National Commission’s members include high-level representatives of ministries responsible for the domains related to UNESCO’s mandate (especially foreign affairs, education and higher education, sciences, culture and the national heritage, natural environment, sports, communication and information) and personalities of scientific and cultural life. many years, UNESCO’s conventions Forand heritage programmes have been particularly focused in the Polish National Commission’s agenda and cooperation with partners at the country and all international levels. The National Commission has been actively involved in the Government’s relevant work. It has organised or supported several national and international conferences and

workshops, or published books, addressing Photo: Ilona Morżoł / Polish National Commission for UNESCO such topics as the implementation of UNESCO’s cultural conventions, cultural education, creativity, landscape, links between culture and sustainable development, intercultural dialogue, documentary heritage.

More information about Polish National Commission for UNESCO is available in its Bulletin (in English and Polish), at www.unesco.pl

UNsinglePAGE3.indd 1 06.02.2017 11:08 Polish National Polish National Commission for UNESCO

Commission United Nations Polski Komitet do spraw UNESCO Educational, Scientific and for UNESCO Cultural Organization POLAND Organizacja Narodów Zjednoczonych each Member State, the National dla Wychowania, Properties inscribed on the World Heritage List Nauki i Kultury InCommission ensures the permanent Map presence of UNESCO in its country and contributes to the Organization’s effort to Photo: Woźniak D.A. / UNESCO AGH Chair promote international co-operation in the field of intellectual activities (Charter of National Commissions for UNESCO, Article III.1) National Commission for PolishUNESCO is the consultative- advisory body to the Government of Poland in the matters concerning UNESCO, such as the implementation of UNESCO’s Photo: Łukasz Wojtowicz programmes and standard setting instruments in the country and Poland’s contribution to UNESCO’s programme and activities. The National Commission actively participates in the elaboration and presentation of Poland’s position in the debates at UNESCO’s governing bodies and fora, disseminates information about UNESCO, its values and activities, and supports their promotion. In fulfilling its tasks it often plays a liaison role between the Organisation, Polish Government, professionals, other civil society actors and stakeholders. The Polish National Commission’s members include high-level representatives of ministries responsible for the domains related to UNESCO’s mandate (especially foreign affairs, education and higher education, sciences, culture and the national heritage, natural environment, sports, communication and information) and personalities of scientific and cultural life. many years, UNESCO’s conventions Forand heritage programmes have been particularly focused in the Polish National Historic Centre of Kraków Commission’s agenda and cooperation with • partners at the country and all international • Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines levels. The National Commission has been • Auschwitz Birkenau. German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp (1940-1945) actively involved in the Government’s relevant • Białowieża Forest work. It has organised or supported several • Historic Centre of Warsaw national and international conferences and Old City of Zamość workshops, or published books, addressing Photo: Ilona Morżoł / Polish National Commission for UNESCO • such topics as the implementation of UNESCO’s • Medieval Town of Toruń cultural conventions, cultural • Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork education, creativity, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Architectural and Park Landscape Complex landscape, links between • and Pilgrimage Park culture and sustainable • Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica development, intercultural Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska dialogue, documentary • Muskauer Park / Park Mużakowski heritage. • • Centennial Hall in Wrocław More information about Wooden Tserkvas of the Carpathian Region in Poland and Ukraine Polish National Commission for UNESCO • is available in its Bulletin (in English and Polish), at www.unesco.pl World Heritage No. 84 37

UNsinglePAGE3.indd 1 06.02.2017 11:08 Special Issue Polish World Heritage sites Polish World Heritage sites

Krakow, Main Square with Cloth Hall.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

38 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

World Heritage No. 84 39 Special Issue Historic Centre of Kraków

Between preservation and the challenges of today

Andrzej Siwek Ph. D. National Heritage Board of Poland, Regional Office in Krakow

View on the Wawel Castle. © Paweł Kobek / NID

40 World Heritage No. 84 istorically, Krakow is one of the capitals of Poland, the city of kings, bishops, scholars and artists. It is also a lens focusing dynastic, political, economic, cultural and artistic threads that are highly significant for the history of European Polish sites civilization in a perspective reaching back beyond the time frame of the past millennium. It is a city whose development owes much to the contributions of numerous eminent strangers from different parts of the world, which resulted in the original character of the local art and a cultural specificity that combines universal values and local tradition; a city whose Hundeniable asset is its history, still visible in the form of successive layers in the urban fabric itself, as well as in the works of architecture and art. Krakow provides a representative example of the historic European city, which is, simultaneously, Roofs of the Old Town. a local centre whose distinct, regional © Paweł Kobek / NID character only serves to complement the universal values it represents. The historic the influence of political and economic the ‘cold war’ strategy of building up heavy centre of the city – among the first twelve transformations. This, in turn, results industry, was generating emergency levels sites inscribed on the World Heritage List in in continual pressure upon its historic of air pollution. ‘Acid rain’ would devastate 1978 – consists of three settlement units: tissue and requires special activity on the the city’s historic tissue. To become equal to Wawel Hill; the historic centre of Krakow part of the services protecting the city’s the protection standards, the contemporary with the preserved pre-incorporation urban monuments and constant updating of the authorities established the Civic Committee layout as well as the one from the time of protection policies. . for the Restoration of Krakow Heritage. the ‘Grand Charter’ of 1257; and Kazimierz, Thus in the conditions of the socialist state mediaeval satellite town with a suburb and Inscription on the a collegial body was created whose task rich complex of monuments documenting World Heritage List consisted in accumulating and distributing the existence of the Jewish quarter. The The inscription on the List was a powerful resources for the preservation of the centre of Krakow is surrounded with a ring stimulus to strengthen the protection policy endangered historic monuments. In 1985, of districts formed in the period of the city’s and continues to exert its influence upon the lower chamber of Polish parliament, by expansion (18th-20th century). The oldest some of transformations that are currently way of legislation, created the National Fund part, the city centre, has actually played taking place. In time of inscription, Krakow for the Renovation of Krakow’s Monuments, the role of the main administrative and was the most valuable historic urban a fund that guaranteed annual allocations economic urban core until now, which has complex in Poland, but simultaneously, a for the protection of city monuments. its own impact upon the character of its city on the verge of ecological disaster. The Following the political transformations protection. The historic centre’s functions industrial development, resulting partly after 1989, the management of the fund and character have been changing under from the regional tradition and partly from was passed into the civic hands and, from 1990 to the present, the fund has been guaranteed by the President of the Historic Centre of Kraków (1978) Republic of Poland, while the distribution The Historic Centre of Kraków is one of the most outstanding examples of medieval town of its resources is supervised by the Civic planning in Europe. It consists of three urban units: the Wawel Hill complex (a symbol of royal Committee for Restoration of Krakow authority and a necropolis that testifies to dynastic and political connections of medieval Heritage, which consists of personages from and modern Europe), city of Krakow; and the town of Kazimierz, including the suburb of the field of culture, experts on the protection Stradom. This homogeneous urban complex is characterized by a harmonious development of monuments, the clergy and local pattern and an accumulation of successive layers of elements representing all styles from the representatives of the state administration early Romanesque up to modern architecture, which can be traced in numerous churches and municipal or regional authorities. This and monasteries, public buildings, relics of the defensive walls, as well as palazzos and solution, exceptional on a national scale, townhouses. has proved correct both in the context of

World Heritage No. 84 41 Special Issue Historic Centre of Kraków

Main Square with Cloth Hall and St.Mary’s Church. © Paweł Kobek / NID civic participation and from the perspective A distinct feature of Krakow – its specific of recent decades indicate that efficient of the hundreds of renovated buildings and community composed of academics, protection of such values reaches far works of art housed in their interiors, and artists and conservative burghers – has beyond the framework of the traditional even in the context of the maintenance of been dispersed, remaining partly in the activities of monument protection services. the consistent implementation of a policy 19th century districts surrounding the city It requires an involvement of many different of monument protection, which allows the core, and partly moving away to satellite participants and calls for a protection- continuity and periodicity of activities that urban areas. Meanwhile, the historic centre minded management. On a local scale, guarantee the best results from the point of has been dominated by tourist services, the whole monument protection system view of the monument protection services. mainly hotels and catering businesses. A has been constantly evolving in Krakow. Due to the political transformations and to beneficial result of mentioned changes is It seems that this evolution tends in the the fact that respect for private property the fact that more of historic interiors are direction indicated by the theory and rights was restored after 1989, the owners rendered accessible to the public. On the practice of World Heritage, that is, towards of historic properties have also become other hand, the interference with the spirit management plans and active protection active and currently contribute sums equal of the place may be a downside effect. It plans. Nevertheless, this process of change to, or even higher than, the state allocations should also be added here that Kraków takes time and calls for the proper education for the protection of Krakow’s monuments. has become the starting point for visiting of all the participants in the complex This is also possible thanks to the opening of other World Heritage sites nearby. New process of monument protection, which the national borders after Poland’s accession World Heritage routes are established, and cannot ignore the tendencies prevailing to the EU, which turned the historic centre a whole network is emerging with Krakow in the development of the city. Thus the of the city into a hub of the international in the centre. Thus, following a centuries- principle behind the way the monument tourism industry. old tradition, Krakow and its historic centre protection system moves forward should play the part of a busy economic hub and be the statement that development is Role of tourism regional metropolis. Awareness of the supposed to contribute to the preservation The tourist traffic generates considerable great value of its historic urban complex, of the historic values which are, at the same income for the owners of the properties, but particularly the area inscribed on the List, time, the fundamental inspiration of the also poses a series of new challenges. The and the need to protect it, still remains development. historic city centre has become depopulated. firm and universal. Yet the experiences

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The Wawel Hill. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 43 Special Issue Royal Salt Mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia

An underground museum, but still a mine

Krzysztof Zięba Salt Mine Bochnia Ltd.

Salt mine in Wieliczka, Michalowice Chamber. © R Stachurski

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Salt mine in Wieliczka, the Chapel of St. Kinga. © Ryszard Tatomir

he ride down to the treadmills, lifts, water wheels and dozens Royal Salt Mines in Wieliczka underground passages of mining tools add to the extraordinary and Bochnia (1978, 2013) of the Wieliczka and atmosphere of the underground world of The Salt Mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia mines takes just the Royal Salt Mines. Bochnia, together with the Saltworks two minutes. It not only The Wieliczka and Bochnia mines have Castle in Wieliczka, are a serial property takes the visitors hundreds already discontinued their intensive salt located in southern Poland, in the of metres beneath the surface, but also mining operation, but the destructive forces vicinity of Krakow, Both salt mines, several hundred centuries back in time. of nature have not ceased their work. combined as one company with royal From the start of the mining operation, status, known as Krakow Salt Works, miners interfered with the original state Maintaining the structure worked continuously from the 13th until of equilibrium of the deposit by digging The task facing the managers of the the late 20th century, constituting one shafts, galleries and huge chambers in mines seems obvious: to preserve and of the most modern and most important search of the precious salt. They were maintain the priceless underground in its European industrial operations. continuously exposed to various dangers. original form. This can be ensured with The mines illustrate the historic In order to ensure safety for the miners in the help of science and the modern mining stages of the development of mining their search for salt, impressive wooden technologies that active mines excavating techniques, comprising an ensemble Tsupporting structures, box cribs, and roof salt and other minerals still use in practice. of hundreds of kilometres of galleries supports of the galleries and chambers The salt rock surrounding the underground and residual excavations, made into were constructed. What is most impressive, chambers acts as their natural support, a workshops and warehouses, as well as however, is the heritage of enormous support that is constantly exposed to the chapels, with remarkable statues and chambers sculpted in pure salt. Leaving destructive pressure of the rock above decorative elements sculpted into the a salt layer of a specific thickness in the the salt deposits. In order to secure the rock salt. Underground tourist routes roof and sidewalls has allowed these roof and sidewalls against cracking and have existed in the mines since the early huge salt caverns to remain both safe and potential collapse, the rock spanning the 19th century. stable. Well-preserved historic machinery, chambers is stitched together with a system

World Heritage No. 84 45 Special Issue Royal Salt Mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia

Wieliczka Saltworks Castle. © Marek Skubisz of thousands of suitably spaced 10-metre- and appropriateness of the safeguarding The historic mines, which function as long epoxy anchors, which are inserted in measures taken. underground museums, are still organized special boreholes. Thanks to them, the rock as active mining companies. Their has increased its resistance to deformations Safety and monitoring organizational structures and procedures several times over. In addition, any hollows Paradoxically, an equally serious danger are designed to ensure safety both for the and non-historic, mined-out spaces for the historic underground structure of underground visitors and for the miners that are adjacent to the most valuable the salt mines is the air necessary for their who perform the works to secure the historic chambers are filled with dense ventilation, or rather the water it contains. mine. Besides the communication systems backfilling. These activities, which have Temperatures inside the mine are relatively and fire protection measures required in been carried out for years, reinforce and stable, ranging between 15 to17° C. In active mines, the mine museums operate stabilize the underground structure of the the summer months, when the surface systems for continuous monitoring of the mine and protect against the destruction air temperature often exceeds 30° C, the underground atmosphere and emergency both of the precious chambers and the air flowing into the mine cools rapidly, as lighting systems for the underground magnificent sculptures, reliefs and altars a result of which the moisture it contains tourist routes. In this way, experienced of the underground chapels carved in salt condenses on the walls and ceilings of the engineers and maintenance staff ensure by the artists – the miners themselves. galleries, dissolving their outer layer of both that people are safe and that the The geological and surveying staff of the salt. This is particularly dangerous for the priceless heritage created by numerous mines monitor the mine continuously for underground salt carvings as it irreversibly generations of Wieliczka and Bochnia even the slightest shifts of the salt and destroys them. In order to contain this miners is preserved intact. rock structures, both underneath and threat, the air delivered underground is above ground, to evaluate the effectiveness treated in special dehumidifying stations.

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Salt mine in Bochnia, level Sienkiewicz, chamber 81, boat crossing mine pit flooded by brine. © Janina Wrzak

World Heritage No. 84 47 Special Issue Białowieża Forest

Bison – a species saved from extinction

Renata Krzyściak-Kosińska Ph. D. Białowieża Forest District

© M.Kosinski / NID

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© M.Kosinski / NID

very year thousands of care. They were fed in winter and guarded and private zoos in Poland, Germany, tourists from all over the by the relevant services so they would not Sweden and other European countries. world visit the Białowieża be killed by poachers. However, the effort of Thanks to the initiative of Polish naturalists, forest. They come to many generations was ruined during World the International Society for the Protection discover its natural War I when the bison, which were no longer of the European Bison was established in wealth, including the European bison, the protected, fell prey to poachers one by one. 1923 with the aim of saving the species. largest land mammal in Europe, which still The last bison living in the wild was killed Only 12 specimens with documented origin lives there. Among the visitors are scientists, in 1919. Luckily, there were still specimens and no trace of American bison blood were nature lovers, artists, and all those who that used to live in primeval forests and had selected from several dozen animals still want to see with their own eyes the been caught and kept in display enclosures living in zoos. However, all the pure-bred animal rescued from extinction at the last moment. A thousand years ago, European bison lived throughout the continent. Over Białowieża Forest (1979, 1992, 2014) the centuries, its habitat shrank so much Białowieża Forest is a large forest complex located on the border between Poland and that in the 15th century the animal lived Belarus. Thanks to several centuries of protection the forest has survived in its natural in just a handful of forests. Ultimately, in state to the present day. This property includes a complex of lowland forests that are Ethe early 20th century, bison could only characteristic of the Central European mixed forest terrestrial ecoregion. The area has be encountered in Białowieża Forest. A exceptional conservation significance due to the scale of its old growth forests, which different, mountain type of the species still include extensive undisturbed areas where natural processes are ongoing. The result is lived in the Caucasus Mountains. Before the a richness in dead wood, both standing and on the ground, and consequently a high outbreak of World War I, the Białowieża diversity of fungi and saproxylic invertebrates. The property protects a diverse and rich Forest was home to about 700 of these wildlife including 59 mammal species, over 250 bird, 13 amphibian, 7 reptile and over majestic animals, which were under human 12,000 invertebrate species. The iconic symbol of the property is the European Bison.

World Heritage No. 84 49 Special Issue Białowieża Forest

European bisons.

© M.Kosinski / NID lowland bison (without any Caucasian bison wild. Since that time, the population of unclear. Animals which are descendants blood) living today are the descendants of bison living on the Polish side of the Forest of just a few specimens demonstrate small just seven specimens. has increased to about 306 specimens in genetic variability, which makes them, 2000, 402 in 2006, 473 at the end of 2010 among other things, less resistant to First bison in Białowieża and 596 in 2016. It is the world’s largest disease. Additionally, the dispersion of the In 1929, after a ten-year break, the population of bison living in the wild. In the specimens and the almost total isolation of first two specimens were brought to the eastern part of the Białowieża Forest, on individual herds block a free gene flow that Białowieża Forest. A breeding reserve was the Belarusian side, their number is nearly is seen as a prerequisite for the development created in Białowieża. It still functions as high. In Poland – in breeding enclosures of a stable and healthy population. at the Białowieża National Park and has and in the wild – there are slightly more Bison are not territorial animals; played a tremendous role in preserving than 1,500 European bison, and 6,083 all nevertheless, they require vast spaces the species. After many years of arduous over the world. and these are less and less available on breeding and fighting for every specimen, The number of animals making up the our continent. Poland has been making the population slowly began to grow. The species is impressive compared to 1919 and every effort to prevent a repetition of the entire process was extremely slow – the it could seem that the restoration of the dramatic episodes from the history of the first two individuals were only set free in European bison is a success story. However, species and to ensure it has a secure future. the forest in 1952, and two years later a despite the continuous growth of its global group of 16 bison was released into the population, the animal’s future remains

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© M.Kosinski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 51 Special Issue Auschwitz Birkenau

Visit to Auschwitz Birkenau: a rite of passage for modern man

Piotr M. A. Cywiński, Ph. D. Director of Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum

Former camp Auschwitz II – Birkenau, railway siding leading to the Gate of Death. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

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Former camp Auschwitz I, a roll-call square. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

he former German Nazi many countries systematically discuss and human experience, and reflection on the concentration and extermination reflect upon the nature and essence of this latest challenges of our time. That is why camp Auschwitz Birkenau was particular Memorial. Indeed, the differences the decision-makers from many countries declared a Memorial Site at between the functioning of the space in the establish financial and institutional the suggestion of survivors as former camp and in other types of museums instruments intended to support visits to long ago as 1947. It was then established are of a fundamental nature. Auschwitz Memorial and, above all, the in the legal structure of a museum. At The main roles of a Memorial are visits of students on the verge of reaching that time, more permanent establishments commemoration and education, and here their majority. protecting the heritage of humanity – unlike in the case of many memorial Thus the direct experience of the space were yet to be devised. Even today, many institutions – these tasks are performed of the former camp – apart from learning questions regarding the Memorial cannot in an authentic historic setting. It is the tragic facts and paying tribute to the be solved by means of a unilateral decision. precisely this experience of the space of memory of the murdered Jews, Poles, Hence Poland’s resolve to establish the the former camp that makes the roles of Roma, Red Army soldiers and other victims – International Auschwitz Council where education and memory create the most becomes here a fundamental factor in both the most distinguished experts from significant relationship between history, historical reflection and rumination on the present age and individual human choices. T Thus the site itself becomes a prop in the Auschwitz Birkenau understanding and emotional assimilation German Nazi Concentration and Extermination of the tragic elements in humanity’s Camp (1940-1945) (1979) heritage and identity at an age when – in Auschwitz Birkenau was the principal, the largest, and the most notorious of the six the opinion of an ever-growing number concentration and extermination camps established by Nazi Germany to implement its of people – books, lectures, movies or Final Solution policy which had as its aim the mass murder of the Jewish people in memory institutions established elsewhere Europe. Built in Poland under Nazi German occupation, initially as a concentration camp are not sufficient to achieve the same goal. for Poles and later for Soviet prisoners of war, it soon became a prison for a number of It is precisely from looking at the evidence other nationalities. of the crime – the suitcases, shoes and tons

World Heritage No. 84 53 Special Issue Auschwitz Birkenau

Former camp Auschwitz Birkenau, interior of a barrack. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID of human hair; from passing through the proof against the arguments of the Auschwitz and the Holocaust. Today, in the gate with the ‘Arbeit macht frei’ sign, the Holocaust deniers and the theses of various 21st century, we know only too well that ramp, the individual camp sectors, post- revisionisms. First of all, this authenticity ‘The past is never dead. It’s not even past.’ camp buildings and ruins (including the becomes the basis of one’s own experience (William Faulkner). Therefore, the memory gas chambers and crematoria); from the – real, physical, and historical – that holds seems not only a tribute paid to the victims clash of historical knowledge with direct great challenges of a moral, ethical and from the past, but also – and perhaps experience of the authentic space, that a civic nature. For contemporary visitors to primarily so – a concerned look at our own completely different kind of cognizance Auschwitz, this authenticity becomes the future and the future of our children. is born, which is far removed from the groundwork for experience that confronts At a time when wars and instances of erudition acquired at school or through them with their own choices. genocide do not rouse us to action in reading. It is each visitor’s own experience Thus the conservators’ protection of the support of human beings, and when grand of the physical reality of the Auschwitz authenticity of this Memorial Site becomes international institutions established to site whose exploration becomes a specific an ethically motivated task. The magnitude ensure global peace and safety are unable rite of passage for the understanding of this challenge led to the creation, in 2009, even to formulate the foundations of an of his or her own responsibility, extent of the Auschwitz-Birkenau Foundation efficient policy towards planned mass of involvement, and the danger ensuing whose fund, of international provenance, murders, and when various populisms, from one’s own indifference and passivity. has in the space of five years become the as well as racism and anti-Semitism, are Visiting Auschwitz is supposed to influence main financial instrument supporting the being revived while humanity’s heritage is the visitors’ outlook and self-reflection. conservators’ works and activities on the consciously drawn into the political rhetoric Seen from such a perspective, the extensive area of the former camp. of conflict, the message of Auschwitz- authenticity of the physical reality of the This provides the basis for developing Birkenau becomes – unfortunately – more former camp does not only appear as a the educational activities carried on by the and more relevant. direct contact with history or irrefutable International Center for Education about

54 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

Former camp Auschwitz II – Birkenau. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 55 Special Issue Historic Centre of Warsaw

The reconstruction of the Old Town in Warsaw

Ewa Popławska-Bukało National Heritage Board of Poland in Warsaw

Warsaw, The Old Town Market Place, polychromy by Zofia Stryjeńska. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

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Historic Centre of Warsaw in 1945. © photo M. +öwierczy+Ñski, reproduction from publication D Kobielski, Warszawa z lotu ptaka, Warsaw 1971 pp 44 45

he Old Town in Warsaw, the identity of the location and the historical the tragedy of the conservation falsification which had been totally continuity of the city formed the basis thus committed [...] our concern must be destroyed during the for the decision made by architects who the best implementation of postulates, the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, favoured the reconstruction process and greatest reverence for the monuments, the was reconstructed from worked at a purposefully named institution best reconstruction of forms.’ 1945 to 1963 following a decision by the – the Monumental Architecture Department state authorities and it became a symbol of the Warsaw Reconstruction Office. Defining an approach of the capital city rising from the rubble. Professor Jan Zachwatowicz, then General to reconstruction The reconstruction has been accompanied Monuments Inspector and the creator of The above theses were accepted by by discussions on the form and method of the programme and principles of historical the general public, although numerous operation that have lasted until this day heritage reconstruction and conservation representatives of the Polish and European and have aroused emotions ranging from in Poland, claimed that the decision on the conservation community did not try to positive to extremely negative. Current reconstruction of the historical centre of the conceal their critical stance. Answers to the views on conservation that are critical of city was “the only possible way forward”. question of Warsaw’s future appearance falsifying history, alongside economic and He stressed: ‘The sense of responsibility had been sought since the first air raids on ideological reasons, provided the main before future generations calls for the the capital city in 1939. Urban planning and Targuments against the reconstruction of the reconstruction of what was destroyed, a architecture studies of the whole city were historic housing. The intention to maintain complete reconstruction that is aware of carried out by a number of specialist teams,

Historic Centre of Warsaw (1980) The Historic Centre of Warsaw is a unique example of an urban complex reconstruction of a city deliberately destroyed in 1944 by the Nazi German occupier. The physical rebuilding of the destroyed city was possible only thanks to the determination and great strength of spirit of the whole nation, which led to the reconstruction of national heritage on a scale unprecedented in the history of the world. Furthermore, the case of Warsaw had its impact on the principles and practice of monument protection. The reconstruction project included the functional requirements of a present-day residential settlement with public functions. The project itself was based on the assumption that any extant, undamaged structures built between the 14th and 18th centuries, together with the late-medieval network of streets, squares and the main market square, as well as the city walls, should be used in the process. It included a complex reconstruction of the urban layout, together with the main market square of the Old Town, burghers’ tenement houses, important ecclesiastical buildings, defensive walls, and later also the Royal Castle. The Archive of the Warsaw Reconstruction Office, comprising documentation of both the post-war damage and the reconstruction projects, was inscribed on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register in 2011.

World Heritage No. 84 57 Special Issue Historic Centre of Warsaw

Historic Centre of Warsaw, St. John’s Street. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID with reconstruction plans being prepared A plan is approved panoramas of the city and landscapes by not only in Poland but also abroad. They The finally approved plan for the Bernard Bellotto, also called Canaletto, reflected a different and customized reconstruction of the oldest part of the also proved invaluable. Inventory-taking approach to the issue with an ideological city in its historical form assumed that a work carried out after clearing rubble from foundation. Opinions promoting the vision housing estate would be built within the the area played an important role in the of a modernist metropolis erected ‘anew’ historic complex. Two government decrees reconstruction process. They revealed a on the basis of pre-war and occupation- – on the reconstruction of the Capital City number of surviving authentic fragments time blueprints appeared in the urban of Warsaw and on the communalization of buildings, their details and elements of planning community. Differences of opinion of land within its area, both issued in interior decoration from various historical also appeared in the communities of 1945 – paved the way for architectural periods. Most of them were subsequently architects, art historians and intellectuals. and urban-planning work under this preserved and displayed. The reconstruction effort had its overall framework. The reconstruction was supporters, but also strong opponents who carried out in several stages. The design Reconstruction, renovation wanted to preserve the destroyed historical stage used comprehensive scientific- and modernization heritage of the old town in the form of a historical and architectural-archaeological The reconstruction restored the Old permanent ruin, or preferred to reconstruct research as well as preserved resource Town’s appearance from its glory days only selected elements of the historic materials, e.g. the invaluable measurement of the mid-18th century, based on the architecture, adequately integrated in the documentation from the collections of well-preserved medieval layout. The new developments. In theory, the scale of the Department of Polish Architecture of buildings regained their 15th to 18th the destruction made it possible to choose Warsaw University of Technology, prepared century arrangements and architectural any option. before the war by architecture students. appearance. The restorers followed the Historical iconographic materials, including principle of returning to their oldest

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The Castle Square. © Paweł Kobek / NID documented versions. The surviving former streets running next to the walls constructors, historians and art historians, vaulted ground floor layouts were left were restored. Many houses – whose artists and craftsmen. Warsaw residents, unchanged, while the characteristic architecture did not draw on their past who removed rubble from this district as staircases with a roof lantern were forms but was only generally adapted to part of a community initiative, made a huge restored. The interiors were adapted to the entire built-up area – were constructed contribution to the reconstruction effort. modern housing standards. At the same on the outskirts in the final stage of the The funds for the reconstruction came from time, 19th century annexes to houses on reconstruction. The whole work was various sources, including contributions the market square and by the city walls crowned by bringing the Royal Castle made by the Polish society and people from were removed, which opened up large back into the panorama of Old Warsaw. abroad. courtyards. The reconstruction of the Its reconstruction in the forms preceding Today, the Old Town historical complex old City Hall, which used to be situated the wartime destruction was started soon performs housing, commercial, cultural and in the market square, was abandoned in after the liberation of the city but for tourist functions. Among other institutions, the course of the works. One of Warsaw’s various reasons was not completed. Grass it is home to the Museum of Warsaw, the most beautiful churches – the completely grew on the castle’s secured cellars for Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature and destroyed St John’s Metropolitan years. The castle was finally reconstructed the Heritage Interpretation Centre, which is Cathedral, where kings were crowned between 1971 and 1984. located in authentic late-Gothic interiors and the oath to the Constitution of 3 May and is part of the so-called Cultural Trail 1791 was taken – was reconstructed in a A gathering of experts of the Old Town Cellars. The complex also different architectural shape than before The reconstruction of the Old Town includes churches and monasteries which, the war. The medieval defensive walls with in Warsaw was a huge undertaking that in a similar manner to other reconstructed the moat in the bailey and the barbican brought together an interdisciplinary buildings, are a symbol of Polish culture and were uncovered and reconstructed, and team of experts: architects, conservators, national identity.

World Heritage No. 84 59 Special Issue Old Town in Zamość

Preserving an ideal Renaissance town

Marcin Zamoyski Mayor of Zamość in 1990-1992, 2002-2014

Old Town in Zamość. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

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Town Hall. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

ur eyes opened wide and its population, who are represented by while elevating the rank of Zamość as an because, all of a sudden, a number of peoples: Poles, Armenians, important centre of cultural and tourist life the towers of Zamość – the Greeks, Jews, Scots and Germans. in Poland. enchanted town, the fairy- The entry of the historic part of Zamość tale town – started to loom on the UNESCO World Heritage List on Protective designation into view from the mists in the distance, 14 December 1992 was a very important and funding unclear at first, and then ever more distinct.” moment for the town, which has known The value of Zamość as an urban ensemble Zofia Serafin-Socheńska, Zamość 1938. both high and low points in its history. was recognized as early as 1936 when, for the Jan Zamoyski signed the act of foundation The inscription of Zamość, as well as first time, it was given protected status. Since of his ideal town, the Zamość Fortress, at the subsequent accession of Poland into 1966, the entry in the Register of Monuments Jarosławiec on 10 April 1580, entrusting the European Union (2005), opened up has covered the entire Renaissance town its design and construction to the Italian completely new opportunities for raising including its fortifications. At present, 67% architect Bernardo Morando. This marked funds to preserve the town’s monuments of the historic buildings within the town the beginning of the rich history of the town in line with international and national rules, and 100% of the fortification areas are fully owned by the commune, which certainly “O presents a major challenge to the town Old Town in Zamość (1992) authorities. Therefore, since 2004, the city Zamość was founded in the late 16th century on the trade route linking western and has continually and systematically sought to northern Europe with the Black Sea. Built on the so-called ‘raw root’ basis (in a completely raise funds for the conservation work of the uninhabited place), encircled by bastion fortifications, Zamość is a unique example of an Old Town monuments. ‘ideal town’ of the Renaissance period. This was the result of perfect cooperation between A total of seven projects co-financed by the open-minded founder, Great Crown Chancellor Jan Zamoyski, and the outstanding EU funds and the EEA Financing Mechanism architect, Bernardo Morando. The town plan, which was faithfully implemented by the have been successfully implemented as part architect and the founder, combines the functions of an urban ensemble, a residence of the renewal of the Old Town. The funding and a fortress. The Old Town in Zamość has retained its original regular street layout, and raised from external sources covered as its architecture is a unique blend of Italian and Central European traditions. much as 69.8% of the investment projects

World Heritage No. 84 61 Special Issue Old Town in Zamość

Aerial view of the town. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID completed within the Old Town ensemble adjacent streets were also repaired and Cultural Park Management Centre. The in the years 2004-2012, totalling PLN renovated. last project, which was carried out in the 166,564,000. The actions undertaken Under the fourth EEA programme, sixteen years 2010 to 2012, involved the creation under the succession of projects included historic buildings were restored, including: of a museum complex called ‘the Museum comprehensive restoration work on the ensemble of the fortress buildings, of Fortifications and Weaponry’ in the 18th the facades and roofs of several dozen the New Lublin Gate with its curtain wall, century Bastion III and in the buildings of the buildings, as well as within the courtyards the Casemates, the Old Lublin Gate and historic Arsenal and Gunpowder Magazine. of several blocks, and within most of the its curtain wall, and the shooting gallery. The project also included securing the streets and three market squares, as well The primary objective of the fifth program exhibits of the current outdoor exhibition of as five ensembles of fortress buildings and was to increase the attractiveness of the Polish weaponry, as well as furnishing the structures. This also included the creation of city to tourists. The project encompassed exhibition facility with modern audiovisual a museum of fortifications and weaponry in the renovation of the Salt Square, the and ICT equipment. Bastion III and the Arsenal. Thanks to the Jaroszewicz Square, the Water Square, The above projects, completed in Zamość external funding raised, the Roman Catholic and the adjoining streets. Another project, in the years 2004 to 2012, prove beyond parish restored the Collegiate Church, while which was delivered by the City in the years doubt that the comprehensive restoration of the Foundation for the Preservation of 2009-2012, was of the largest scale. Its the Old Town of Zamość, a UNESCO World Jewish Heritage restored the Renaissance purpose was to make the Zamość Fortress Heritage site, would have been impossible Synagogue. available for tourist and recreational without the funds raised through various Under the first three projects, a total of purposes. This included the fortifications projects. These projects, along with the more than 100,000 m3 of historic buildings of the 16th-century ‘ideal town’ and the enormous commitment and support from underwent conservation, renovation, polygonal 19th-century fortifications. The the residents of Zamość, have allowed us modernization and adaptive reuse, three project included the restoration of the ring to restore its historic look and splendour as buildings were upgraded for cultural and defences of the fortress, the remodelling of an ‘ideal city’, a unique place on a European tourist purposes, nearly 1,000 m2 of retail the amphitheatre, restoration of the Historic scale, with such great success. space was created, and a video surveillance Town Park, the construction of parking lots, I would like to thank all the people who system was built covering the entire Old and the adaptive reuse of a historic building have contributed to the great success of our Town. The Great Market Square and the as the headquarters of the Zamość Fortress town with all my heart.

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© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 63 Special Issue Medieval Town of Toruń

Out of concern for the monuments

Mirosława Romaniszyn Municipal Monuments Protection Officer in Toruń

Medieval Town of Toruń, Szeroka street. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

64 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

he Old Town of based on two strict criteria: the authenticity Medieval Town of Toruń is one of few of the original fabric and the outstanding Toruń (1997) historic Polish towns value of urban and architectural It is a rare example of a historical not destroyed during monuments. complex combining the riverside World War II. Here Toruń is simultaneously a large, modern, and a ‘double’ town, with the urban the largest ensemble of medieval churches, expanding city and a major academic pattern of the Old Town (1233) and public buildings and townhouses in centre, which has to respond to the needs the New Town (1264) preserved northern Europe, featuring Gothic elements of its present-day inhabitants. The city largely unchanged. The Old Town is and bearing priceless traces of successive authorities have been making continuing a collection of historic buildings and historical layers, was preserved. Thanks to and ambitious efforts to ensure its dynamic craft works representing all periods, the renovation, most of the buildings have but sustainable development, invariably which illustrate the successive stages remained in use until today. linking it with the appreciation of Toruń’s of the town’s economic prosperity Toruń is a unique city. Indeed, it was cultural heritage, responsibility for its future and cultural development. The area thanks to its history, town planning and and protection. enclosed by the defensive walls has architectural values, traditions and genus Gothic churches, town hall, brick loci, which combined into a coherent Legal protection and houses and granaries dating back to culturalT landscape, that the Old and New conservation work the Gothic period. Toruń once boasted Town of the medieval Centre were inscribed In view of the value of Toruń’s monuments, a medieval castle, which was a seat of as a single property on the UNESCO World and with the aim of ensuring their legal the Teutonic Order (demolished in 1454 Heritage List in 1997. The inscription was protection, the Old Town was inscribed by the townspeople of Toruń).

World Heritage No. 84 65 Special Issue Medieval Town of Toruń

© Piotr Furman / the Municipality of Toruń on the Register of Monuments as early as architectural monuments under its care, system of grants. It has been providing 1952. From the beginning of the 1950s, including the 410 listed in the Register of financial support to owners of registered documentation, conservation, repair work Monuments. The staff of the Monuments monuments who undertake renovation and research activities on Toruń’s historic Protection Office are responsible for efforts. The provision of a stable system buildings were performed by the Ateliers approving project documentations required of municipal subsidies for conservation for the Conservation of Cultural Property. for various efforts involving renovations, projects has contributed to a gradual Since 1990, many of the specialists who urban renewal, adaptive reuse and increase in confidence among monument acquired their expertise at the Ateliers have conservation; determining the scope and owners to invest in their property and to continued and expanded their conservation nature of these works; and supervising their the streamlining of renovation processes. activities by running their own businesses. execution. The staff are also responsible The compromises and negotiations with Evidence of respect for the importance for conservation and renovation projects all the users of the protected space of the and needs of cultural heritage can be seen and for consulting on amendments to Old Town – which has remained the center of in the Municipal Monuments Protection spatial development plans; they must make public, administrative, economic and tourist Office, which has been operating within sure that historic public spaces are used as life, and is the identifier and showcase of the structure of the City Hall since the designated, the spatial order is maintained the more than 700-year-long history of the early 1990s. This body is responsible for and advertisements are appropriately city – show that places where conflicting discharging the monument protection tasks incorporated. interests and divergent expectations falling within the remit of the City under Since the adoption of procedures meet can be difficult, even turbulent. The the Protection of Monuments Act. The for granting subsidies from the city Municipal Monuments Protection Office is Office has approximately 2,700 recorded budget, the Office has been operating a supported by the Toruń City Centre Office,

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Medieval Town of Toruń. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID which acts as the host of the Old Town. One protection and preservation of a UNESCO previous one. The project was evaluated of its major achievements is the adoption of cultural heritage’. according to formal and content- a spatial policy for the streets and squares The city’s attachment to its Hanseatic related criteria and finally accepted as a of the Old Town. tradition is reflected in the now completed beneficiary. project ‘Toruń – Hanza on the Vistula It is impossible to describe all efforts New opportunities River’, under which the remains of Toruń taken to protect the sustainability of the for conservation Castle were renovated and converted, the Old Town. Instead, it seems important Poland’s membership in the European historic surfaces on the roads along the to demonstrate, using a small number of Union has opened up new opportunities for main axis of the Old Town were restored cases, that protection, maintenance and taking care of monuments. Raising external and the urban renewal of the recreational commitment to the state of conservations, funds is a top priority for the authorities of area of the former Dominican Church and to proper presentation and to appropriate Toruń. Thanks to successful applications Monastery was started. use of monuments in their original or new for EU funds, and leading and partnering Encouraged by the effects of previous functions, to securing their surroundings, joint projects with churches, museums and conservation projects supported by EU ensuring the spatial order, and providing cultural institutions, the City implements funds and guided by a sense of duty and convincing promotion of monuments, all multi-task conservation projects to enthusiasm for Toruń’s monuments, we add value to the standards of modern living. preserve its architectural monuments have compiled and submitted, through the These efforts highlight the achievements of and craftsmanship. The largest awarded Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, generations of residents, underline prestige project, implemented in the years 2007- a new, 14-task project for the Old Town, and cultural continuity, and are proof of 2014, was ‘The Old Town of Torun – which is a consistent continuation of the belonging to European civilization.

World Heritage No. 84 67 Special Issue Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork

Conservation work in the sacral area of Malbork Castle

Professor Janusz Hochleitner Deputy Director of the Malbork Castle Museum

Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork, High castle.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

68 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork, view from across the Nogat river. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

nderstanding the history and archival studies and field research and went sinister symbol of German Nazism. However, architecture of the world’s down to posterity as an important case of the first clearing and protective work in the largest Gothic brick castle scientific conservation. castle had already started in 1945. Initially, it can be difficult without a In the early months of 1945 the castle – was spontaneous in nature and undertaken grasp of its religious heritage declared a German ‘fortress’ – became the by Polish settlers, mostly active in the and the turbulent and eventful past of the scene of desperate fighting which turned scouting and touring movements. surrounding land. Malbork castle was built it into ruins. Among the most severely in the Middle Ages by the military Order damaged parts were the tower and the The beginning of a of Brothers of the German House of Saint castle church, together with the Chapel conservation programme Mary in Jerusalem, known as the Teutonic of St. Anne located directly below it. The The large number of elements of interior Knights, which was invited to undertake an socialist political system imposed in post- decoration and architectural details rescued evangelization campaign in Prussia. From war Poland favoured a heated discussion from the ruined chapel and church were the early 14th century, Malbork was the seat regarding the future of the fortress. When stored away and then included in various of the Grand Master of the Order. In the the trauma of the occupation was still fresh museum exhibitions. These activities largely middle of the 15th century it was captured among Poles, the fortress was perceived as a contributed to the laying out of an extensive by the king of Poland and served as a Polish Uroyal residence until 1772. After the collapse of the Polish state, Prussian authorities Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork (1997) demolished some elements and rebuilt the Located in northern Poland, the castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork is a mighty castle numerous times, which significantly Gothic brick fortress constructed from the 13th to the 15th century and consisting of three deformed its original architectural shape. clearly distinct, yet integrally interconnected parts: the High, Middle, and Low Castles. However, in the early 19th century the Built for the Teutonic Knights, many of the construction techniques and solutions applied fortress was declared a monument and there were used not only in the other castles of the Teutonic Order, but also in the broadly subject to wide-ranging restoration works. understood Gothic architecture of Central and Eastern Europe. The main originator of the restoration and The Malbork castle complex has been the object of conservation works from the 19th reconstruction of the castle at the turn of century to the present day. It is therefore a perfect illustration of the evolution of the the 19th century was Conrad Steinbrecht. modern theory and practice of conservation in its social dimension, as well as in its His reconstruction project was based on scientific and artistic aspects.

World Heritage No. 84 69 Special Issue Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork

Aerial view of the castle complex.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID conservation programme aimed at repairing profit organization commenced activities was made of stone. This floor, however, the war damage in the castle and restoring aimed at reconstructing the statue in the was taken up by Steinbrecht in the 1880s. its former appearance. above-mentioned church of Our Lady. Eventually, after the origin of that stone The first scheduled and systematic was determined, the decision was taken to conservation works were carried out in Recent works restore the flooring in its original form. the castle from 1957 to 1961. Further and The definitive schedule of restoration Currently, the interior of the High Castle more extensive works were made possible works in this part of the castle originated in church, which has been rendered accessible to through a complex project comprising an 2012. The whole northern wing of the High visitors, presents the exposed or reconstructed arrangement plan on the sacral interiors Castle together with the Bell-Ringer’s Cabin elements dating back to different stages of that was finally implemented in 2014-2016. and Priests’ Tower were comprised within its construction. For the sake of clarity, the First, the destroyed outer part of the Church the scope of the scheduled conservation post-war architectural reconstructions were of the Most Holy Virgin Mary and the and construction works. The restoration of plastered in order to contrast with the original Chapel of St. Anne were reconstructed and the historic architectural space in the form it Gothic elements. During the reconstruction covered with a high roof, while the interior had before 1945, and rendering the church of the vaulting, historical building techniques received a ceiling of reinforced concrete. interior accessible to visitors and arranging a were used, which were reproduced thanks Various concepts for the restoration of new exhibition space, were indicated among to the historic artefacts from the Malbork the church were considered during many the primary goals of the reconstruction. collection of architectural details. The last years of discussions. The ideas ranged from The last remaining questions for the stage of the conservation works in the church maintaining the church interior in a state of originators of the restoration project were included furnishings from the period when ruin as a commemoration of the war-time related to the church vaulting and the the temple belonged to the Society of Jesus plight of the castle to the suggestion of method of restoring the eight-metre-high (1666-1780); the crypt left by the Jesuits was preparing a digital image reconstruction of mosaic statue of Our Lady in the outer also examined. its former shape with the help of laser and niche of the church. Another important Thanks to the efforts of Polish monuments computer technologies. The establishment of issue was related to the church flooring, conservation experts, visitors coming to the the Mater Dei Foundation in 2007 provided and particularly to the determination of Malbork castle complex today can get a valuable support for the idea of reconstruction its historic material. The earliest records much better grasp of its architecture and its of the sacral space of the castle. This non- from the 17th century indicate the floor history.

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High castle.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 71 Special Issue Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

The landscape and people of the Pilgrimage Park in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

Barbara Furmanik National Heritage Board of Poland in Warsaw

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

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View to the Bernardine monastery and Golgotha.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

he visitors coming today along the paths leading to Calvary and the only architectural art, but also decorative to the Pilgrimage Park in scene of the Crucifixion, merges with the art and interior furnishing of the Calvary Kalwaria Zebrzydowska picturesque landscape. buildings. But when we consider the can feel transported in Research on the Zebrzydowski family Pilgrimage Park in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, time and space to a place and this unique site that they built has it is also necessary to look at the where nature intermingles with art — the for centuries focused on the history, landscape, which provides a magnificent architecture of the Bernardine monastery, transformations and richness of the works setting for the complex of churches and and of the churches and chapels standing of art in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska – not chapels, imitating the layout of Jerusalem. And we must think about the people who have shaped this landscape for centuries, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Architectural and appearing within it for a brief moment Park Landscape Complex and Pilgrimage Park (1999) during their visits or living here for their Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Architectural and Park Landscape Complex entire lives. and Pilgrimage Park is a cultural landscape located south of Krakow, which dates back to the first half of the 17th century. It is notable among European Calvaries for its Inspired by a dream distinctive architectural features, for the skilful amalgamation of religious devotion The history of this Calvary complex goes Tand nature, and for the uninterrupted tradition of the mysteries enacted here. The back to the late 16th century. A devout sacral complex, embedded in the surrounding landscape, consists of a basilica with nobleman, Mikołaj Zebrzydowski, was a monastery and a number of churches, chapels and other architectural structures, inspired by the stories of people making all connected by alleys that were built in successive stages from the 17th until the pilgrimages to Jerusalem, but also affected beginning of the 20th century. by a dream in which he saw a cross on

World Heritage No. 84 73 Special Issue Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

the top of Żar Mountain. He decided to build a chapel on his property, modelled on the Golgotha chapel in Jerusalem, and then a monastery, which he donated to the Bernardine order. An ambitious idea also emerged to enrich the local landscape with elements based on the topography of the Holy Land – Golgotha, the Mount of Olives, Zion, Mount Moriah, the Kidron River – and build a Calvary evoking the Passion of Jesus Christ with the Stations of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa, and later also another path dedicated to Mary, mother of God. This unique coalescence of sacrum with nature in the form of a Calvary complex was the first complex of this type in Poland and provided the inspiration for many imitators. A monastery building and a number of churches and chapels of high artistic value, designed by Paweł Baudarth, were erected over a dozen years. The work of Mikołaj Zebrzydowski was continued over the following centuries by his descendants, who expanded the extent of the Calvary, building new chapels and enriching the artistic decoration of the interiors and the architectural programme. Since the early 20th century, the main focus has been on renovation and conservation works to maintain the place in good condition. The complex in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is not merely a cluster of over 40 churches and chapels situated along paths, but a carefully designed composition of a vast landscape park. The Calvary paths, leading to the series of buildings, were designed as cuttings through woodlands or in the form of multi-row avenues in an open landscape. The Bernardine monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of the Angels, situated prominently on a slope of Żar Mountain, are the dominant features of the surrounding area. Visible to pilgrims from afar, they are inviting and awe- inspiring.

The role of people Equally important in the perception of this complex, alongside its history and composition, is the role of people who created this place. Pilgrims have travelled here since the early 17th century to worship God during the Passion Play and ceremonies of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, or in individual prayer. The people of The Angel Bridge.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

74 World Heritage No. 84 the Calvary have also lived here for many centuries, both the Bernardines and men from the nearby towns and villages. In today’s world of rapid change, amid the pressures of modern civilization, a number of questions arise. Do love for this place and respect for its sacrum still exist, and are they capable of defending it against change? Does the way up to Golgotha still require contemporary pilgrims to make an effort and share their suffering with Christ carrying his cross, or is it a recreational walk? The areas surrounding the Calvary complex are changing and so are the needs of both the local people and pilgrims. The pride of the local community, arising from living in such an important place, can be set against the difficulties involved in hosting regular religious ceremonies, which attract hundreds of thousands of people. Their desire for a comfortable and modern life clashes with restrictions imposed by the monument inspectors who wish to protect this valuable historic site. The expectations of the contemporary pilgrim necessitate modifying the transport, accommodation and service infrastructures to ensure safety along the avenues going to Calvary. Despite all this – the passage of time, wars that have taken place, changing lifestyles – for five centuries the Pilgrimage Park in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska has striven to remain unchanged and to resist the encroachment of modernity. This was confirmed by the inscription of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Architectural and Park Landscape Complex and Pilgrimage Park on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It marks the site as unique on a worldwide scale, as an exceptional union of sacrum with nature, and an example of a large-scale landscape complex that combines natural beauty and landscape design with the spiritual values of Calvary, mystery plays and the principles of Baroque art, which found their expression in a complex of churches and chapels embedded in the landscape. It is hoped that the Calvary, created by people as a place to worship God who became Man, and a place that still attracts thousands of pilgrims from around the world, will continue unchanged to serve future generations. Special Issue Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica

The question of the authenticity of the timber- frame structure of the Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica

Ulrich Schaaf, Ph.D. Institute of Protection and Conservation of Cultural Property, Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń

Interior of the church in Jawor.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

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Church of Świdnica.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

or a long time, the notion The history of the appreciation of the Churches of Peace in Jawor of authenticity in relation Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica and Świdnica (2001) to conservation activities also provides such an example. Throughout The Churches of Peace built in the had mostly been associated the 20th century, the assessment of their Silesian towns of Jawor (1654-1655) with protecting the tangible historical value was changing depending and Świdnica (1656-1657) in south- substance of a monument. This was due to on the current cultural context in spite western Poland are the largest timber- the belief that only the original substance of the fact that their authentic tangible framed Baroque religious buildings in could be the attribute of its value. In substance remained virtually unchanged. Europe. They were both constructed the course of time, the interpretation of For some – mostly Protestant – scholars, following the Peace of Westphalia of authenticity was broadened considerably. they were a symbol of their coreligionists’ 1648 which ended the Thirty Years’ Nowadays, the question of authenticity is struggle for religious freedom in the War. In compliance with the conditions settled not only on the basis of its material Silesian principalities ruled by Catholic of that settlement, the temples were genuineness but also, for instance, in Hapsburgs at the time when the churches to be erected on a precisely specified accordance with the Operational Guidelines were constructed (mid-17th century). area outside the city walls, of non- for the Implementation of the World For other – mostly Catholic – researchers, durable materials – wood, loam, and Heritage Convention, its ‘form and design; they were a symbol of tolerance towards straw – without towers and within just Fmaterials and substance; use and function; his Protestant subjects on the part of the one year. The centuries-old tradition of traditions, techniques, and management Catholic Habsburg Emperor. timber framing found its reflection in systems; location and setting; language, the unparalleled scale, complexity, and and other forms of intangible heritage; spirit Discovery of values durability of the Churches of Peace. and feeling, and other internal and external through analysis Their sumptuous interior decoration, factors’ too. Besides, numerous examples It should be noted that the extensive developed in the following decades, is a show that the values of a monument often research conducted in the Churches of unique illustration of the coexistence of ensue from the social, political or cultural Peace prior to the drawing up of the Baroque art and Lutheran theology, as context in which they are discussed; nomination for inscription on the World well as a reflection of the social hierarchy therefore, they can be changeable. Heritage List demonstrated the enormous of that time.

World Heritage No. 84 77 Special Issue Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica

Interior of the Church of Świdnica.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID significance of the preservation of their of value judgments. However, it seems such as preserving the historical layers original material substance. In the case that this observation does not reduce the while repairing local damage; improving of both the churches, an analysis of the importance of the need to preserve the the integrity by supplementing any missing existing timber-frame structure afforded genuine substance, for it was precisely structural elements in the individual parts/ possibilities for a detailed reconstruction of the analysis of the authentic structure structures of the properties; replicating the history of their erection, determination of these monuments that allowed their building materials and techniques that of the technical solutions applied in the unique significance and values related corresponded, to the maximum possible different periods of the building process, to the construction solutions adopted to extent, to the original solutions; and and a theoretical reconstruction of their be highlighted. In this particular context, renovating the finishing coats subject to original architectural form and structure. the primary aim of conservation works natural and constant wear and tear. It was precisely the results of the research related to the timber-framing construction The social, political or cultural that allowed the scholars to highlight of both the churches was to protect and transformations and the progress of science some hitherto unknown values that were preserve the existing layers of their historic will for sure also lead to the formulation then defined in the above-mentioned substance that testified to the richness of in the future of new research questions nomination: ‘The Churches of Peace are their architectural history, as well as to the regarding the Churches of Peace; and outstanding, pioneering, and unique periods of rise or stagnation of the parish historians, art historians and scholars structures, the construction, spatial and its church. from other fields will be searching for the arrangement, and technology of which Attempts were made to reach the goal answers both in the tangible and intangible were later imitated only in a simplified and thus defined not only by means of the proper spheres of their heritage. The results of reduced form’. conservation procedure, from extensive their research will perhaps highlight and Both the above mentioned examples of research and guidelines, through the attribute to the properties some new and the significance of historical interpretation conceptual design study, building project hitherto unrecognized values. However, and understanding of the construction and detailed design, up to the model works it seems that the analysis, evaluation and of the Churches of Peace provide a and their final implementation. This was also protection of the tangible substance of the confirmation of the historical changeability carried out through clearly defined priorities monuments will remain the fundamental © H.-J. Aubert

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task of the architectural monuments protection officer.

Interior of the Church of Jawor.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 79 Special Issue Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska

The Wooden Architecture Route and its role in the preservation and management of heritage

Anna Fortuna-Marek National Heritage Board of Poland, Regional Office in Rzeszów

Church of the Assumption of Holy Mary and St. Michael the Archangel, Haczów.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

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Inside the St. Michael the Archangel Church in Binarowa.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

he Wooden Churches of Southern Podkarpacie, Śląsk and Świętokrzyskie, the – including churches and tserkvas (14 on Małopolska and the Wooden Route presents their prized ecclesiastical the World Heritage List), bell towers and Tserkvas (churches) of the and secular wooden architecture and is the chapels – but also secular architecture, Carpathian Region in Poland and longest cultural route of its kind in Poland. including manor houses, palaces and villas, Ukraine, two serial World Heritage It stands out for the extraordinary diversity, small towns and health resort architecture, properties, are the most precious sites in richness and outstanding value of the open-air museums and rural buildings. At the Wooden Architecture Route. Winding buildings and sites, which comprise not only a present, the Route comprises more than 500 through the regions of Małopolska, number of temples of various denominations elements representing various categories of monuments, architectural styles and types of structure. The cumulative length of all the Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska (2003) routes is over 4,000 km. The churches of southern Małopolska are a serial property comprising the six best- The purpose of the Route is to present, preserved and oldest wooden Gothic churches typical of the region (Blizne, Binarowa, promote and protect historic wooden Dębno Podhalańskie, Haczów, Lipnica Murowana, Sękowa). Built using the horizontal log architecture. The objective is not only to technique, common in eastern and northern Europe since the Middle Ages, the churches promote the tourist attractions of the feature an intricate spatial structure including, in most cases, a tower, a nave and a individual regions, but also to educate Tpresbytery, as well as external arcades, also referred to as ‘Soboty’. All of the churches local communities and engage them in are notable for their masterful carpentry detail, as well as unique structural design and broadly-defined protection of this special engineering solutions. Other distinguishing features include precious decorations and and important feature of Poland’s cultural furnishings, representing a variety of techniques and styles, a wealth of iconographic heritage. In the first stage of its organization programmes, and an outstanding artistic value. and operation, the focus was on creating These churches stand as examples of a typical landmark in the historic rural layout, to a comprehensive tourist information which they owe their unique scenic qualities appreciated today. system and on marketing to promote it.

World Heritage No. 84 81 Special Issue Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska

Church of St. Phillip and St. Jacob in Sękowa.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

The latter role has been entrusted to the is Małopolska’s Programme Conservator, basis of monuments, a sense of identity and coordinators of the Route – regional tourist addressing unemployed people. Participants an awareness of the role and importance of organizations and regional governments. are hired for example as guides or day-to- protecting cultural heritage. The owners and managers of the historic day caretakers of the temples and their The activities along the Wooden buildings, local governments, associations, surroundings. In addition to serving tourists, Architecture Route, briefly described above, etc. play an equally important role. The the Programme plays a very important which are undertaken by a wide range of wooden churches and tserkvas inscribed public function, not only by offering jobs stakeholders, contribute to the development on the UNESCO World Heritage List and for the unemployed, but also – importantly of tourism, and equally importantly, other buildings along the Route are venues – by building people’s awareness of the encourage citizens to preserve the remarkable for a number of interesting cultural events significance of the monument, its value and monuments for future generations. Some – concerts, exhibitions, events organized the need to protect it. of the initiatives contribute to raising within the framework of the European people’s awareness of the fact that their Heritage Days. The Route is a tourist Activities and local involvement local monument is not just an essential attraction. At the same time, based on the The experience gained during the more element of the local landscape, but also Route, wide-ranging educational activities than ten years of its existence proves that a valuable feature in the regional, national and programmes are delivered both to proper management of the cultural Route and even global context. In this way, a promote the World Heritage properties and and its use as a stimulus for social and previously underappreciated object becomes to propagate the need to protect historic economic development is only possible something desirable and significant, which wooden architecture. The educational when the process engages property owners, inspires pride, and its protection ceases to activities, delivered both by experts and local communities and local government. be just an onerous obligation. It is therefore local enthusiasts, are addressed not only to From this wider perspective, the Route is difficult to overestimate the role of the children and young people, but to the entire also becoming an excellent educational UNESCO World Heritage properties, which local community. An interesting initiative tool, which is helpful in building, on the ennoble the whole Route.

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St. Michael the Archangel Church in Dębno.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

World Heritage No. 84 83 Special Issue Muskauer Park/Park Mużakowski

Conservation and reintegration

Renata Stachańczyk Ph. D. National Heritage Board of Poland in Warsaw

Park Festival, theatre performance next to the english cottage.

© Paweł Kobek / NID

84 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

The Arcade Bridge after restoration work in 2011.

© Paweł Kobek / NID

ark Mużakowski has been metres, carefully designed plays of light the two parts – in functional and spatial steadily gaining in importance and shadow, successfully created illusions, terms – was a true catastrophe for the and prestige, defying its sophistication in setting the course of the eastern part. The new legal status and peripheral transboundary alleys, refined compositions of plants, the ownership, handing the park over to the location and its peculiarity exceptional sense of space or the harmony Polish State Forest Administration, caused as a historic garden. The site owes much between the form and the contents – all the naturalist composition, with a few of its rising popularity to its extraordinary forming a highly coherent and multi-layered history, which is closely linked to both synthesis of all the garden elements, a Europe’s dramatic past and more recent synthesis of meticulously designed scenery. Muskauer Park/Park developments, as well as with bilateral When the new political order was Mużakowski (2004) conservation efforts – a veritable established in Europe in 1945, it seemed Park Mużakowski is an extensive phenomenon on a European scale. that history would put an end to the landscape, initially developed between The park is an expression of Prince existence of this extraordinary area. A 1815 and 1844 by Prince Hermann von Hermann von Pückler-Muskau’s unbridled new, difficult period began in the history Pückler-Muskau, harmoniously set in imagination and a result of his life’s of the park, affecting its coherence. The the river valley of the Lusatian Neisse, passion for creating his own image, which river, which had previously been a winding which is currently the state border Pmaterialized as imaginary scenery covering feature crossing the large-scale landscape between Poland and Germany. The more than 700 hectares on both sides of composition, became the state border. park blends fluidly with the naturally- the Lusatian Neisse. formed river valley. Its essence lies in the It would be hard to find, whether in A period of division visual relationship between the central Poland or elsewhere in Europe, solutions The history of the two parts of the park residence, the New Castle, and a series quite matching the scale and grandeur went in two different directions. Aside from of topographical focal points. It is an of this park: its expansive meadows the ruined and burnt palace, the western example of a cultural landscape created interconnected as complex systems of part, which was put into order quite by man, in which the site’s natural the park’s open areas, connected vistas quickly, was able to function autonomously. attributes have been harnessed with the extending for more than several hundred The loss of the interconnection between utmost skill.

World Heritage No. 84 85 Special Issue Muskauer Park/Park Mużakowski

Planting apple trees in the historic nursery on the east side of the park.

© Paweł Kobek / NID architectural features, to become less and including the exchange of information the entire layout, both sections of the park less recognizable. The clarity of the tracks and materials, agreeing on action plans, have renewed significance. and layout were being gradually lost, building cooperation through management In addition, attitudes within the spatial interactions and the meticulously structures, and joint investments. One of community living around the park landscaped scenery slowly disappearing, the key initiatives was the reconstruction of have been changing. One of the most links between the place and local the Double Bridge (2003) and the English important events, the Park Festival, community vanishing. The park remained Bridge (2011), which restored the functional which was initiated two decades ago by anonymous for the newcomers who settled unity of the park and helped to reconstruct a group of Polish landscape architects, here as a result of forced displacements the historical scenario for the visit, as has gained astonishing momentum since from the eastern territories of the pre-war recommended by Prince Pückler. In this way, the administrator of the German part Republic of Poland. after more than 60 years, the two parts and Łęknica’s local government made it It was as a result of the interest in the of the composition were bound together a joint initiative. It is one of the forms of park by German restorers, at the turn of the again, laying the foundations for the park cooperation bringing together on a regular 1990s, in an atmosphere of reconciliation reintegration process. basis the local governments, institutions and and building a sense of community, that Today, by following the gradually organizations participating in creating the this story has a happy ending. Wide- reconstructed paths, which were previously cultural agenda of Polish-German events, to ranging collaborative conservation efforts, hardly noticeable and overgrown with self- organize exhibitions, issue publications and unprecedented in Europe, were undertaken sown plants, visitors can reach most of the deliver educational programmes. to protect and restore the park. key features. The Mausoleum Terrace, Horse From the Polish perspective, such types of Chestnut Hill, Mary’s Hill, Freda’s View and activities have been part of a mission that Reconciliation and Golden Hill are only some of the spots on is inseparable from the restoration efforts reconstruction the Polish side to which the wide roads, themselves, to build new value, overcome In 1993, the government of Saxony designed for moving about in a horse- stereotypes on both sides of the border, and established the Fürst-Pückler-Park Bad driven carriage, lead. Designed in a highly create a sustainable relationship founded Muskau Foundation. At about the same time, dynamic, precise manner, they guide visitors on mutual acceptance and respect. the administration of the Polish part was to a sequence of stone benches overlooking For the local community, the Lusatian entrusted to a government institution – today vistas. The works of the successive restorers Neisse is now perceived as a feature the National Heritage Board of Poland. Over have uncovered the outstanding qualities of integrating the landscape, and not as a formal two and a half decades, the organizational the landscape design. Since the completion barrier. The people, nature, and scenery are and technical bases for the conservation in 2013 of the renovation of the New mutually complementary, reflecting the and care of the park were established, Castle, which is the predominant feature of original idea of the park founder.

86 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

The New Castle.

© Paweł Kobek / NID

World Heritage No. 84 87 Special Issue Centennial Hall in Wrocław

Centennial Hall – cathedral to democracy

Grzegorz Grajewski Ph. D. National Heritage Board of Poland, Regional Office in Wrocław

Aerial view of the complex, from south to north. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

88 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

Four Dome Pavilion. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

n the autumn of 1910, the Municipal construct the framework, including the Innovative construction Council of Wrocław took the reinforcement bars and ready-mixed The Centennial Hall was designed decision to construct an exhibition concrete. Another involved fitting elements with priority given to the interior so hall surrounded by exhibition of the roofing and curtain walls which were that, depending of the arrangement of grounds. This plan was occasioned prefabricated at the construction site. The seats for the audiences, the hall could by the approaching centenary of the victory opening ceremony on 20 May 1913 was accommodate six to ten thousand people. over Napoleon in 1813 that changed the marked by the premiere performance of a It has a symmetrical quatrefoil ground overall political balance in Europe. The main play by Gerhart Hauptmann, winner of the plan with a quatrefoil outline repeated by exhibition hall, named the Centennial Hall, Nobel Prize in Literature. At that point, the an ambulatory with four lobbies and the was designed by the city planner Max Berg Centennial Hall was the largest reinforced- semicircular portico of the main entrance in and engineered by Günther Trauer and concrete assembly hall in the world, at a the western elevation. The main assembly Willy Gehler. Not content with its advanced time when the construction potential of room is covered with a ribbed dome and complex design, the constructors used reinforced concrete itself was still being supported by four huge arcades that open the latest construction techniques to erect tested. Thus, with his bold design, Max up into semicircular apses. Seen from the the building in just fifteen months. One of Berg paved the way for the application of outside, the body of the hall seems to be these techniques was a carousel cableway that material in the construction of public formed stepwise and to be composed of Ithat hoisted the materials necessary to utility buildings. ever-diminishing storeys with almost entirely glazed walls. This innovative construction and architectural solution made the light- Centennial Hall in Wrocław (2006) filled interior of the ribbed dome look The World Heritage property known as the Centennial Hall in Wrocław is a surprisingly delicate. The face of the walls symmetrically and axially planned area of the former Exhibition Grounds designed in the was, for the most part, left in raw concrete spirit of modernism by the architects Max Berg and Hans Poelzig. The most important on both the inside and outside. This, feature of the whole composition is the Centennial Hall of reinforced concrete, which however, was not the architect’s deliberate stands on the intersection of the principal axes. Together with the Four Domes Pavilion, intention but merely a result of the shortage terrace restaurant and pergola enclosing a pond, the Hall forms the original complex of funds for the interior decoration. In the from 1913. In the years which followed, new features were added in connection with the course of time, it was precisely this rawness different exhibitions, some of which it can be assumed were only of a temporary nature. of the material applied that became one of In the inter-war period two more exhibition halls were constructed together with a new the characteristic features of the edifice, entrance to the Exhibition Grounds with a colonnade. In 1948, a hundred-metre spire highly appreciated by experts in modernist of steel (‘Iglica’) was set in place as the main feature of the Polish Recovered Territories architecture. Exhibition. Other important elements of the complex include the Japanese Garden and Between 2009 and 2011, the Centennial the Szczytnicki Park, a part of a larger landscape park. Hall underwent the first renovation and

World Heritage No. 84 89 Special Issue Centennial Hall in Wrocław

Inside the Centennial Hall. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID maintenance since it was built. Underneath and the traces of colouring revealed under of the Exhibition Grounds, Hans Poelzig, the main hall, new storage and utility the layers of grime. The renovation and created a public recreation area accessible rooms were constructed in order to maintenance was preceded by specialist to all and located in the centre of a rapidly facilitate the efficient organization of research that demonstrated that almost developing city. Indeed, large and cultural mass events. The ambulatory was also 75 per cent of the original windows of the events are still frequently organized here. renovated. All the maintenance works dome were still preserved. These were made The Centennial Hall and the other buildings, were carried out without disturbing the using jarrah wood (Eucalyptus marginata), as well as the garden complexes of the integrity of the original structure of the specially imported from Australia. This Exhibition Grounds, currently face similar edifice. The Discovery Centre, a modern discovery led to their full restoration and problems and challenges connected with exhibition explaining the significance of the preservation by carrying out the costly their efficient functioning and the need to Centennial Hall as a milestone of modernist maintenance works that also included the adapt to the latest technical requirements architecture, was set up in a portion of the reintroduction of the original yellow-gold related to public utility buildings. Since ambulatory and the elevations and window glazing, which allowed the interior of the they were inscribed on the UNESCO frames underwent specialist renovation. It dome to regain its original colours from World Heritage List, the only permissible was the first time works had been carried 1913. modifications have been those that respect out on such a large scale: the edifice was The Centennial Hall was erected as a the historic value of the buildings and their cleaned, any missing pieces were replaced, venue for exhibitions, concerts, theatrical historic fabric, and ensure the preservation and the reinforced concrete surfaces were and operatic performances, and sport of those features that make the Centennial re-profiled using professional monument competitions. Max Berg himself called his Hall and its surroundings one of the world’s protection techniques. During the work, the work ‘a cathedral to democracy’ – a space most important monuments of 20thcentury original structure was preserved together shaped in an egalitarian spirit, conducive to art and architecture. with the imprints of the framework boards a community of experience. The designer

90 World Heritage No. 84 HUNDREDS OF POLISH CULTURAL EVENTS: FROM CONCERTS TO EXHIBITIONS MILLIONS OF PARTICIPANTS FROM BRAZIL ALL THE WAY TO CHINA MUSIC THEATRE VISUAL ARTS

THE ONE–AND–ONLY CULTURE.PL

world heritage reklama.indd 1 13/02/17 17:28 Special Issue Wooden Tserkvas

Common Heritage

Mariusz Czuba Deputy Director of the National Heritage Board of Poland

Interior of Tserkva in Chotyniec. © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

92 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

Former Tserkva in Kwiato+Ñ © Piotr Ostrowski / NID

n 2009, the National Heritage of the border, and a joint Polish-Ukrainian derived from the monumental ecclesiastical Board of Poland, in collaboration transboundary nomination entitled ‘The architecture of Greek and Byzantine with its Ukrainian partners from Wooden Tserkvas of the Carpathian Region origin – that constituted the unique and the International Cultural Heritage in Poland and Ukraine’ was submitted to the extraordinary feature of the tserkvas of the Protection Centre in Zhovkva, began World Heritage Committee in Paris in 2012. Polish-Ukrainian cultural borderland. This work on the inscription on the UNESCO The nomination reflected the centuries-old process was accompanied by the constant World Heritage List of a complex of evolution of ecclesiastical architecture as development and incessant improvement wooden tserkvas located in an area broadly preserved in the Carpathian region of Poland of the construction techniques, understood as a Polish-Ukrainian cultural and Ukraine, pointing to its extraordinary architectural forms and ornamental borderland. This nomination intended to stylistic and regional diversity and the mutual patterns that reflected the advancements popularize on a worldwide scale the rich and interpenetration of the Western European in monumental architecture. In time, the unique art of ecclesiastical timber-building in and Eastern European architectural traditions. tserkvas evolved from the relatively simple this part of Europe, and to ensure adequate It was precisely the adaptation of universal tri-partite, cuboidal buildings covered with protection of the tserkvas. Eventually, after patterns to the local building and artistic pyramidal roofs into extremely complex a multi-stage selection process, sixteen traditions – adjusting timber-buildings and technologically advanced multi-section monuments were chosen, eight on either side based on log frame construction to forms structures with wooden cupolas or hipped I curb roofs of extraordinarily picturesque outlines. Another exceptional feature of Wooden Tserkvas of the Carpathian Region those constructions – quite extraordinary in in Poland and Ukraine (2013) the tradition of Eastern Christianity – was The sixteen tserkvas (churches) constitute an outstanding example of an ecclesiastical their susceptibility to the assimilation of timber-building that reflects the requirements of the Eastern liturgy and the cultural traditions forms derived directly from the architecture of the local communities, which evolved in relative isolation due to the mountainous terrain. of Roman Catholic churches. This was The architectural forms of the tserkvas, with tri-partite plans, pyramidal domes, interior the result of gradually tightening bonds decoration and furnishings, represent four distinct architectural types on either side of the between the Churches of the Western and Polish-Ukrainian border: Hutsul types (Nyzhniy Verbizh and Yasynia); Halych types (Rohatyn, Eastern rite within the boundaries of the Drohobych, Zhovkva, Potelych, Radruż and Chotyniec); Boyko types (Smolnik, Uzhok and modern Polish state, where the tserkvas Matkiv), and western Lemko types (Powroźnik, Brunary Wyżne, Owczary, Kwiatoń Turzańsk). were actually built, and interdependent Surrounded by trees and bounded by perimeter walls or fences, the tserkvas with their relations between various workshops and associated graveyards and free-standing bell towers constitute landmarks of the region. founders prevailing in Poland at that time.

World Heritage No. 84 93 Special Issue Wooden Tserkvas

Wooden tserkva of the Kotlina Sandomierska region.

© Mariusz Cieszewski / Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland

The role of tserkvas protection. Often the only chance to preserve a considerable proportion of the neglected in communities a tserkva within the new post-war borders of temples, thus allowing them to reassume The wooden tserkvas are also an illustration Poland was to have it taken over by Roman their proper social role. In spite of numerous of the centuries-old coexistence of the local Catholics and adapted to their liturgy. In the new threats, the wooden tserkvas, both in communities. Intended for the followers of area under the direct rule of the Soviet Union, Poland and in Ukraine, found themselves the Eastern rites (often founded by Roman where the official state policy was hostile to included in the group of monuments under Catholic landowners), they were erected by religion and the forced atheization of society special protection, becoming, at the same builders from municipal architects’ guilds was in progress, the wooden temples were time, a highly appreciated ‘tourist product’, and remain a reflection of the prevailing commonly used as stores and warehouses. which has undoubtedly contributed to their contemporary social and cultural relations Only a few that were deemed particularly popularization. The wooden tserkvas, as in that area. In spite of tendencies towards valuable works of art were turned into so- fruits of the centuries-old coexistence of the modernization that grew stronger at the called ‘museums of religion and atheism’ local communities, had also become another turn of the 20th century and often resulted impregnated with atheistic propaganda. A plane for an unusual and unprecedented in the substitution of wooden temples with large part of those invaluable monuments on collaboration between Polish and Ukrainian new stone or brick churches, until the end either side of the new post-war border were monument protection experts and officers, of the 1930s the stock of preserved wooden devastated or utterly destroyed. The result which found its most emphatic expression tserkvas, within the area included in the of these events was that the ecclesiastical in the jointly submitted nomination for the nomination, could have been counted in timber-building, which for centuries had been inscription of the representative group of thousands. It is only following the tragic the most distinct landmark in the cultural those monuments on the UNESCO World events of the Second World War and the landscape of the Eastern Carpathians, was Heritage List. This collaboration has, in turn, resulting socio-political transformations that on the verge of physical annihilation. This considerably contributed to the emergence the situation changed dramatically. Due to situation has been gradually improving of a new view of the essence of the cultural the forced displacement of populations, since the late 1980s. The revival of the community and the process of building a large number of the tserkvas lost their structures of the Greek Catholic Church relations between the present-day societies religious function and their guardians, and uninhibited religious freedom enabled of Poland and Ukraine in a spirit of tolerance thus being deprived of any form of legal the restoration of the religious function to and mutual respect.

94 World Heritage No. 84 Polish sites

Wooden tserkva of the Roztocze region, Radruz village.

© Mariusz Cieszewski / Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland

World Heritage No. 84 95 Special Issue Documentary heritage The involvement of Poland in UNESCO activities regarding documentary heritage

Tomasz Komorowski Polish National Commission for UNESCO

Former camp Auschwitz I.

© Piotr Ostrowski / NID

96 World Heritage No. 84 Special Issue

World Heritage No. 84 97 Special Issue Documentary heritage

ultural conventions aside, moment of its inception. Another historical Polish representatives and experts Poland has expressed experience also contributes to that special consistently supported the work on the particular interest and involvement, namely that of maintaining Recommendation. This instrument was support for UNESCO’s the political and cultural identity of the established in 2015 to fill an important documentary heritage Polish people throughout the Partition gap in international law, supporting the activities within the framework of the period thanks to the preservation of worldwide development of legislation and Memory of the World Programme, as well their own cultural tradition and collective policies ensuring an improvement in the as for the Recommendation concerning the memory, which made it possible for Poland state of preservation of, and access to, preservation of, and access to, documentary to regain independence after 123 years of documentary heritage. heritage including in digital form. Being an subjugation. The Recommendation is an important exceptionally important part of the legacy Poland, inter alia, hosted the 1st and achievement of UNESCO. Albeit belonging of humanity from the point of view of 6th Meetings of the International Advisory to the domain of ‘soft law’, it is the first information, documentary heritage is at Committee (IAC) of the Memory of the and, to date, the only worldwide legal the same time highly susceptible to loss World Programme (Pułtusk 1993 and instrument that specifically addresses the and forms a particularly delicate source Gdansk 2003) and their accompanying issue of documentary heritage. of memory, information and knowledge. subregional consultations (Central- The registers listing particularly valuable CThe awareness of its societal importance, European and Baltic, respectively), as objects of documentary heritage are intensified by the vivid experience of huge well as the 4th International Conference important instruments allowing the and irreparable losses suffered in the period of the Memory of the World Programme Memory of the World Programme to of the Partitions (end of the 18th century – entitled ‘Culture – Memory – Identities’ influence social consciousness. Due to 1918) and, in particular, during the Second (Warszawa 2011) and expert meetings advances in communication, exchange World War, made Poland participate all the in 2012 and 2014, convened by UNESCO of information and knowledge, and more actively in the work of the Memory within the framework of the Programme the establishment of new global links, of the World Programme from the very and the work on the Recommendation. the collective memory is extended by

The Twenty-One Demands The boards with Twenty-One Demands from Gdańsk can be counted among the most emblematic items of contemporary history. They are the most important original document that has been preserved from the “August 1980” strike, an event that played a crucial role in the creation of the ‘Solidarity’ movement. The strike was thus not only a major factor contributing to the regaining of freedom and independence by Poland, but also, on an international scale, it contributed to the overthrowing of the system of real socialism, to the overcoming of the post-Yalta division of the world, and to the liberation of many countries and peoples in Europe. As a document, the boards with the Twenty-One Demands are also interesting because of the Boards with Twenty-One Demands, Gdańsk, at the entrance gate of the Gdańsk Shipyard, August 1980. extraordinary material (carrier) on which Krzysztof Korczyński © European Solidarity Centre the demands were recorded, namely plywood. The story of the preservation of the boards during martial law in Poland (imposed on December 13, 1981) is also symptomatic. At the beginning of that period the original boards were secretly whisked away from the premises of the Polish Maritime Museum (now the National Maritime Museum in Gdańsk; NMM) and hidden within a partition wall in the attic of the house of one of the Museum employees. Meanwhile, a replica carefully produced for exhibitions was confiscated by the regime’s secret police – who mistook it for the original – and this has never been recovered. The genuine boards were returned to the Museum in the 1990’s. The exhibit was deposited by NMM in the European Solidarity Centre (ECS) in Gdańsk where it is today presented in a permanent exhibition.

98 World Heritage No. 84 the inclusion of awareness of different and often distant societies and cultures. All kinds of heritage contribute to the memory of the world. Among these, the specific nature of documentary heritage lies in its special connection with the memory it reveals as information heritage par excellence.

Poland’s Memory The importance of the Memory of the World registers was quickly appreciated in Poland. In 1996, the Polish Committee for the UNESCO Memory of the World Programme was established. The most conspicuous aspect of its activity has been International cooperation related specifically to the international Register, and then, since 2014, also the Polish national one. The international Register comprises heritage that meets the criterion of ‘world influence’. The diversity of the fourteen items of Polish heritage on the list is perfectly illustrated by the first three Polish inscriptions dating from 1999: the autograph of the epoch-making work De revolutionibus, in which Nicolaus Copernicus laid out his heliocentric theory; the autographs of musical scores and letters by Fryderyk Chopin; and the underground archive of the Warsaw Ghetto, named the Emanuel Ringelblum Archives after its initiator. The subsequent Polish inscriptions include the boards with Twenty-One Demands of Gdansk, August 1980, together with the collection entitled ‘The birth of the Solidarity Trades Union – A Massive Social Movement’. The Polish National Register of the Memory of the World Programme, that has gone through two editions so far, now comprises 22 items of special importance for Polish culture, history and identity.

Relationship to World Heritage sites The uniqueness and importance of several Polish objects on the registers of the Memory of the World Programme become more apparent in the context of the sites Autograph of Nicolaus Copernicus’ ‘De revolutionibus’: page with an illustration of the solar system. inscribed on the World Heritage List, and © Jagiellonian Library, University of Krakow vice versa – the knowledge of those items makes it easier to see the significance The person of Nicolaus Copernicus links the and nature of the World Heritage sites. Historic Centre of Kraków and the Medieval A good example is the Archive of the Town of Toruń as World Heritage sites with Warsaw Reconstruction Office, listed in the autograph of his De revolutionibus. the International Register of the Memory

World Heritage No. 84 99 Special Issue Documentary heritage of the World Programme, documenting General Confederation of Warsaw the destruction of Warsaw during the Second World War and its subsequent reconstruction, especially that of its Historic Centre, a World Heritage site. The document of the Confederation of Warsaw of 1573, inscribed on the International Register, is a deed that guaranteed religious tolerance as one of the cornerstones of the political system of the former Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. It points clearly to the role the Warsaw Royal Castle played in the political system of the old Commonwealth, and its subsequent significance for Polish sovereignty, parliamentarianism and democracy. This speaks volumes about the symbolic dimension of its post-war ruin and reconstruction. In this respect the Confederation of Warsaw is just like another document, inscribed on the Polish National Register of the Memory of the World, the Constitution of 3rd May 1791 (The Government Act) adopted at the Royal Document of the Confederation of Warsaw of 1573. Castle in Warsaw – which is one of the ©Polish Central Archives of Historical Records first modern constitutions worldwide. The document of the Confederation of Warsaw The document of the General Confederation of Warsaw was signed at the Convocation also throws light on the interpenetration Sejm of 1573. The new king – chosen for the first time in a ‘free election’ – is obligated and peaceful coexistence of different to abide by the rules and principles of religious peace and tolerance. This manifestation cultures, religions and denominations in of civil liberty and religious freedom from the time when denominational wars and the former Commonwealth – a coexistence persecutions were common in Europe and absolutist tendencies were already in whose important traces, for instance, took progress was included in the Henrician Articles, thus becoming one of the foundations the form of the wooden tserkvas of the of the political system of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. An invaluable feature Carpathian region in Poland and Ukraine, of this document is also the presence of the numerous and well-preserved seals of its jointly inscribed on the World Heritage cosignatories. List by the two countries. The person of The document is preserved in the Central Archives of Historical Records (AGAD) in Nicolaus Copernicus links the Historic Warsaw. Centre of Kraków and the Medieval Town of Toruń as World Heritage sites with the autograph of his De revolutionibus. Another document inscribed on the Polish whose protection and management calls and complementarity of the diverse pieces National Register of the Memory of the for different measures, methods and legal of evidence and testimonies of humanity’s World, A Brief and Precise Description of regulations. The separate ‘parts’ of the various achievements and experiences. The the Administration and Conditions in the heritage are interconnected in manifold revealing of the connections between the Wieliczka and Bochnia Salt Mines in the ways, both on a practical level and in heritage items listed within the frameworks Year of Christ 1518, is directly related to reflection upon the significance of the of different UNESCO conventions and another World Heritage site – the Wieliczka heritage and of its individual sites, elements programmes, would certainly serve to arouse and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines. It is a unique and objects. The 2015 Recommendation an interest in heritage, to disseminate and record of the structure and operation of concerning the documentary heritage develop knowledge of humanity’s legacy, one of the biggest enterprises of medieval encourages such synergies ‘in order to and to facilitate a better understanding of and early-modern Europe. assure further coherence of actions’. the world. Such presentations could also It is sometimes emphasized that the Obviously, synergy should not mean refer to other UNESCO lists or even reach heritage of humanity needs to be treated uniformization or blurring of the distinctions beyond the limits of this organization’s as a whole in spite of the distinct character between the conventions, programmes or programmes. Advances in digital technology of the various kinds of heritage, which principles of managing the heritage lists. and hypertext seem to be highly conducive are defined from different aspects and Instead, it should show the mutual relations to initiatives of this kind.

100 World Heritage No. 84 Instituto Nacional de Fryderyk Chopin Instituto Fryderyk Chopin después de la II Guerra Mundial y desde 1950 - Asociación Fryderyk Chopin). Las multifacéticas actividades El legado cultural, que dejó Fryderyk Chopin se cuenta entre los de este instituto son el eco de la creatividad y vida del compositor - tesoros más valiosos y universales de la cultura europea entrelasan- rica, compleja, estableciendo un reto y una tarea para las futuras do las dimensiones espiritual y material al mismo tiempo, que generaciones de pianistas, auditorios e investigadores fascinados constituye una expresión de la identidad nacional polaca unida al con su música. lenguaje universal de la música. Concentrándose en la irrepetible producción de Chopin la labor del El Instituto Nacional Fryderyk Chopin cumple con la compleja Instituto se realiza a diferentes niveles y tienen que ver con todas las misión de salvaguardar dicho legado cultural; instituido en el año ramas del arte y de la vida cultural moderna de Polonia, de Europa 2001 por decisión del parlamento polaco, siendo el mayor centro y del mundo. cultural dedicado a promover, proteger, investigar y difundir ampliamente la música de este compositor en el mundo, continua la tradición iniciada ya al final del siglo XIX (primero por la Asociación Musical llamada Comité Fryderyk Chopin la cual pasó a llamarse

El centro de actividades del instituto es la música. Cada cinco años el Instituto organiza el Concurso Internacional de Piano Fryderyk Chopin - uno de los más antiguos e importantes concursos de piano en el mundo. Desde hace décadas entre los ganadores y premiados de dicho concurso se encuentran los artistas que están creando la historia de la música de piano moderna. La rica oferta de conciertos encuentra cada año su máxima expresión en agosto en Varsovia durante el Festival Internacional "Chopin y su Europa". La creatividad de Chopin resuena aquí a manos de maestros del piano en el contexto de la música europea de los siglos XVIII y XIX con especial consideración a la desconocida hasta ahora creatividad polaca, representando un creciente éxito en el público internacional. fot: Marcin Czechowicz/NIFC Dicho festival es una de las importantes fuentes de discos CD y DVD publicados por el Instituto (denominados NIFCCD y NIFCDVD). El instituto también guarda y muestra objetetos materiales del legado de Chopin - en Varsovia en el Museo de Fryderyk Chopin y en Żelazowa Wola (en la casa donde nació el compositor) además de la Biblioteca del Centro Chopin. La más grande colección mundial de objetos relacionados a Chopin incluye entre otros: Valiosos manuscri- tos musicales, cartas, iconografía, publicaciones originales, souvenirs únicos del compositor y grabaciones originales.

fot: Wojciech Grzędziński/NIFC La codificación y programación del legado de Chopin sirve para publicaciones e investigaciones tales como: Conferencias y simposios internacionales de musicología, publicación de crecientes series de libros científicos y populares, periódicos internacionales o por ejemplo el proyecto dedicado a la publicación de ediciones facsímiles fot: Wojciech Grzędziński/NIFC de todos los manuscritos que se conservan de Chopin, que se encuen- tran dispersos por todo el mundo. Además el Instituto, a través de acciones educativas multidireccionales, construye una estructura cultural tendiente al mantenimiento presente y futuro del legado de Chopin y a su comprensión; dichas actividades están dirijidas a los niños y a sus maestros, a auditorios tanto de adultos como de perso- nas muy mayores, pero también a pianistas jóvenes y talentosos.

Cumpliendo con la misión aceptada, el Instituto realiza al mismo tiempo todas las actividades que tienen que ver con Fryderyk Chopin en todo el mundo, especialmente festivales y concursos dedicados a Chopin a nivel internacional, y además todas las activi- dades a nivel nacional llevadas a cabo por diferentes asociaciones dedicadas al compositor polaco.

Narodowy Instytut Fryderyka Chopina fot: Marcin Czechowicz/NIFC (Instituto Nacional de Fryderyk Chopin) Tamka 43, 00-355 Warszawa (Varsovia) Polonia World Heritage No. 84 www.chopin.nifc.pl 101 GECT Alpes Maritimes SP NIO M O UN IM D R T IA

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In Focus: Climate change and World Heritage

World Heritage sites are the most spectacular places on the planet, and natural sites are often crucial for sustaining biodiversity hotspots and natural habitats for endangered species. Cultural sites, masterpieces of human creativity, cities and cultural landscapes are often fragile when confronted by the effects of Chinguetti mosque (Mauritania).

climate change. Published ahead of the COP21 meeting of the © John UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCC) to be held from 30 November to 11 December 2015 in Paris, France, this issue will focus on methods of adaptation and best practices The new sites inscribed on the World Heritage List during the for dealing with the consequences of climate change at World 39th session of the World Heritage Committee, held in Bonn Heritage sites, both cultural and natural, and will also examine (Germany) from 28 June to 8 July 2015, will also be presented. some recent experience in mitigating the effects of climate change for intangible heritage.

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