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Emerald Necklacenecklace by Cynthia Levinson

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Emerald Necklacenecklace by Cynthia Levinson AnAn EmeraldEmerald NecklaceNecklace by Cynthia Levinson hen Bostonians saw New try. As the most comprehensive system York’s glorious Central Park, in the country, these parks would allow Wmany knew they needed to city dwellers to “rest the mind” while improve their own city’s parks. Three strolling, riding carriages, playing lawn downtown areas provided greenery. But tennis, and enjoying a “little folks’ fair” Boston, founded as a historic “city on (a playground). a hill,” could be even more beautiful. However, before Boston could Leaders of the Boston Park Movement develop new parks, Olmsted realized, asked Frederick Law Olmsted for ideas. the city needed better sanitation. A In 1878, Olmsted surveyed existing lovely tree-lined walkway ended at This map of the Emerald parks and western suburbs. He sup- “the foulest marsh and muddy flats to Necklace captures how ported the city’s idea for a series of be found anywhere in Massachusetts.” the parks and parkways connected green spaces flowing from This mixture of salt and fresh water, link together to create a continuous “green” the city center, along creeks and marsh- the Back Bay Fens, flooded at high tide. experience within the land, around a pond, and through At low tide, raw sewage baked into city limits. woods to a sheep meadow in the coun- the mud and smelled horrible. Even 28 28_emerald necklace.indd 28 5/2/12 12:26 PM LEFT: Olmsted began work in the Back Bay Fens by dredging, or by Cynthia Levinson deepening, the waterway. BELOW: Today, it’s an attractive park. animal life was dying. So Olmsted’s nearly seven miles long, they form “the first jobs were to build intersecting Emerald Necklace.” sewers, which managed water flow and kept the water clean, and find plants S I X J E W E LS that could withstand both saltwater After cleaning up the Back Bay Fens, spray from the Atlantic Ocean and icy Olmsted planted salt-tolerant grasses What a concept! winter winds. in tidal areas and winter-hardy pine Linking multiple Olmsted’s firm labored for years to and spruce trees on the banks. He built parks together! accomplish his vision. In 1893, 15 years gatehouses to control tides and arched after he started the project, Olmsted bridges and paths for pedestrians wrote to his partners, “Nothing else and horses. compares in importance to us with the Olmsted rerouted Muddy River, wid- Boston work. [D]ecline any business ening it in places to form ponds. Along that would stand in the way of doing the banks of the ponds, he established the best for Boston all the time.” When more than 100,000 plants that looked workers finally finished in 1895, they so natural that visitors thought the area had added six new parks. Linked with remained wild. This twisting ribbon the city’s original three (see the sidebar of greenery, water, walks, and roads is on page 31) along a meandering route called the Riverway. 29 28_emerald necklace.indd 29 5/2/12 12:26 PM LEFT: Arnold Arboretum remains both a place to learn about plants and relax in a natural setting. ABOVE: A smaller Franklin Park today still offers urban dwellers a refreshing outdoor retreat. For Olmsted Park, in suburban other than a 1.5-mile path around the Brookline, the landscape architect pond’s perimeter. designed a chain of ponds, coves, Upon his death in 1842, Benjamin groves, and meadows. To draw nest- Bussey, a prominent Boston merchant, ing birds, Olmsted built islands in donated more than 200 acres of land Leverett Pond. He hoped to add a series west of Jamaica Pond to Harvard of fresh water “natural history pools,” College to encourage the study of complete with fresh water animals. One agriculture and horticulture. In 1872, animal considered for the pools was a money from the will of James Arnold, hippopotamus. But lack of money and a New Bedford businessman, was com- complicated negotiations with city offi- bined with Bussey’s gift to form Arnold cials often hampered Olmsted’s work, Arboretum. It would be a place where and the pools were filled in. students could study “indigenous or Olmsted described Jamaica Pond, exotic” trees, including a giant sequoia, formed by retreating glaciers, as “a one of the biggest living organisms on natural sheet of water with quiet grace- Earth. Harvard turned the property ful shores.” Fed by natural springs, this over to the city in exchange for the right 50-foot-deep kettlehole is the largest to use it. Olmsted and the first director A kettlehole is a and purest body of water in Boston and of Arnold Arboretum, Charles Sprague depression left by was the city’s major source of drink- Sargent, collaborated on its design. glacial drift that is formed by the melting ing water and ice. Visitors also fished, Sargent chose and sited rhododendrons, of a large, isolated boated, and skated there. Since it was maples, and crabapples—all arranged block of glacial ice. naturally perfect, Olmsted added little in scientific order by family, genus, and 30 28_emerald necklace.indd 30 5/2/12 12:26 PM species. Olmsted planned roads and and parading around Jamaica Pond made sure the plantings were pleasing in October would delight Olmsted. A to both scientists and people who sim- boathouse and bandstand were added FAST FACT ply wished to admire the collection. 100 years ago, and residents and dogs harvard university With more than 500 acres, the largest sometimes sneak a swim. manages the arnold site in the Emerald Necklace is Franklin Olmsted would barely recognize arboretum under a Park, named for Benjamin Franklin, Franklin Park. Surrounded by the 1,000-year contract, who was born in the city. In 1884, city, it has shrunk, and its zoo houses which will end . Olmsted planned this space to be a “rest- lemurs and gorillas. But the layout in 870 years! ful, soothing, and refreshing” retreat for retains the mix of open space and city dwellers. He cultivated native plants, forest that Olmsted designed, inviting including a 200-acre oak tree wilderness. soccer players, hikers, and picnickers. Instead of lawnmowers, sheep trimmed A busy thoroughfare now borders the the grass in the meadows and in the Riverway. Most changed is the Back Bay Playstead, a recreational area. Olmsted Fens, which is no longer a salt marsh. A wanted only farm animals in the zoo. dam built on the Charles River in 1910 turned the water all fresh. The Fens THE VIEW TODAY now sits among museums and bustling Of the six parks, Arnold Arboretum colleges and is home to community veg- is the least changed. People hike to etable gardens. It still leads to the three Peters Hill, the highest point in the original parks, drawing strollers, skat- necklace. Every May, thousands of ers, and children who love ducklings. visitors admire 180 varieties of fragrant Few know how much planning went lilacs on Lilac Sunday, the one day that into these “natural” spaces! A picnicking is allowed. Likewise, the sight of children in Cynthia Levinson lives across the street from Muddy River Halloween costumes carrying lanterns and likes to walk around Jamaica Pond. The riginally existing as shared pastureland in 1634, Boston Common Ois the oldest park in America. Now bordered by stores and the Massachusetts State Capitol, it offers lawns, a playground, and tennis Original courts. The Public Garden was established in 1837 as America’s first botanical garden. It is famous for its lagoon, swan boats, and statues of the Mallard family from Robert McCloskey’s children’s book, Three Make Way for Ducklings. Flanked by elm, maple, and linden trees, the Commonwealth Avenue Mall is a mile-long walkway, called an allée. It also contains statues of American heroes and heroines. The Emerald Necklace Conservancy and the Friends of the Public Garden work with city and state agencies to maintain the parks. Check them out at www.emeraldnecklace.org and www.friendsof thepublicgarden.org. (The latter site provides a half-hour tour that you can download and carry with you as you walk through the garden.) —C.L. The Public Garden’s foot-pedaled swan boats were introduced by Robert Paget in 1877. The Paget family still operates the boats, one of which is nearly 100 years old. 31 28_emerald necklace.indd 31 5/2/12 12:26 PM.
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