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CE34 V03 Copy 1 Café Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 34 • September 2008 La voce della Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 34 • settembre 2008 www.scae.com The first cup In this issue • In questo numero If you couldn’t make Italy's speciality coffee – challenges and prospects . .2 it to Copenhagen for Il caffè speciality in Italia – sfide e prospettive SCAE’s Wonderful Coffee in June, Understanding water for speciality coffee . .8 you’ll find extensive Capire l'acqua per il caffè speciality coverage of the event Coffee specialists flock to Wonderful Coffee in this issue. For Copenhagen . .13 those of you who Gli specialisti del caffè riuniti al Wonderful Coffee were there, you’ll find some pleasant déja vu. Copenhagen The Øksnehallen proved to be a great choice Sponsors – Wonderful Coffee Copenhagen . .23 for the venue, and it seemed that everyone I I sponsori – Wonderful Coffee Copenhagen spoke with loved its ambience and the quality Eugenio Santos wins 2nd SCAE Coffee of contacts they were making. It will be hard Photography Competition . .28 to beat next year, but that’s just what we Eugenio Santos vince la seconda Coffee intend to do when we gather next June in Photography Competition SCAE Köln, Germany for 2009’s premier speciality coffee event. Don’t miss it! 1st SCAE Ibrik/Cezve World Championship Coffee, colour, music and dance . .30 In this issue, besides our regular features, l primo Campionato mondiale SCAE Ibrik/Cezve association news and coverage of the world Caffè, colore, musica e danza speciality coffee scene, we continue our quest National Coordinator of the Year 2008/09 . .32 for the perfect cup with two technical articles Il coordinatore nazionale SCAE per l'anno 2008/09 on coffee preparation topics: one on grinder technology and the other on water treatment Omkafè – a family affair . .34 for speciality coffee applications, each impor- Omkafè – affari di famiglia tant factors to get right in achieving perfect Dalla Corte hosts SCAE visit to Milan . .36 results consistently. Dalla Corte ospita la visita SCAE a Milano Charles Prager SCAE Gold Cup Programme – moving forward . .38 Programma Gold Cup SCAE – aggiornamento Editor The soul of a new grinder . .40 L'anima di un nuovo macinacaffè Round-up of international news . .46 La prima tazza Sommario delle notizie dal mondo Se non vi è stato possibile essere presenti a Obituary – Dr Alberto Hesse, 1918-2008 . .49 Copenhagen, al Wonderful Coffee SCAE di Necrologia giugno, in questo numero trovate un ampio Index of Advertisers . .52 resoconto della manifestazione. Chi invece Indice degli inserzionisti c’era, troverà qualche piacevole déja vu. Coffee Calendar . .52 Il calendario del caffè L’Øksnehallen si è dimostrato una scelta vin- cente come sede, e sembra che tutti coloro con i quali ho parlato abbiano gradito la sua ambien- tazione e la qualità degli incontri che si faceva- The Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company no. Sarà dura superare questo, il prossimo anno, limited by guarantee registered in United Kingdom, Co. ma è proprio quello che intendiamo fare riunen- Café Europa Reg. No. 3612500. Copies of the SCAE bye-laws are avail- doci il prossimo giugno a Colonia, in Germania, able from the Secretariat. VAT Reg. no. GB 894 2009 15. per la più importante manifestazione del caffè No. 34, September 2008 speciality del 2009. Non mancate! © Copyright 2008, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429 represent those of its Editor, the Information Commit- In questo numero, oltre ai nostri soliti servizi, Café Europa (Online) ISSN 1752-8437 tee or the Publisher, the Speciality Coffee Association alle notizie associative e ai resoconti delle Cover photo by Charles Prager, Aysin Aydogdu competing for of Europe. Articles and contributions by members are vicende del caffè speciality nel mondo, conti- the UK in the 1st SCAE World Ibrik/Cezve Championship invited; please contact the Editor. nuiamo la nostra ricerca della tazza perfetta Printed in England at the Gemini Press, Shoreham-by-Sea con due articoli tecnici su argomenti che Information Committee: Colin Smith (Chairman), Hugh riguardano la preparazione del caffè: uno sulla Address all correspondence to: Gilmartin, Charles Prager, Michael Segal, Jens Henrik tecnologia di macinazione e l’altro sul tratta- SCAE Secretariat, Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bick- Thomsen, Mick Wheeler, Inga Schaeper, Marc Käppeli mento dell’acqua per le applicazioni con i nacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, United Kingdom. Editor: Charles Prager • E-mail: [email protected] caffè speciality. Sono due fattori importanti Tel.: + 44 (0)1245 426060 per fare bene e ottenere in modo continuativo Fax: + 44 (0)1245 426080 Advertisement Manager: Jens Henrik Thomsen risultati perfetti. E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: + 44 (0)1245 426060 Mobile: +44 (0)7775 504594 Charles Prager www.scae.com E-mail: [email protected] Responsabile editoriale Café Europa • Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe • No. 34 • 2008 • 1 • Coffee cultures: Italy Birthplace of espresso, Italy has been an inspiration and driving force in the speciality coffee movement, but how are things at home? Café Europa talks to VINCENZO SANDALJ of Sandalj Sandalj Photo: courtesy of Vincenzo Trading in Trieste Italy's speciality coffee – Vincenzo Sandalj challenges and prospects Vincenzo Sandalj Café Europa: First of all, Café Europa: What does how is the speciality this mean for the Le culture del caffè: Italia market in Italy future? performing? Vincenzo Sandalj: The most Patria dell'espresso, l'Italia è sempre stata ispirazione e Vincenzo Sandalj: Well, con- fascinating part of Italian coffee forza trainante del movimento del caffè speciality, ma sumption in Italy is stagnating culture is still the traditional come stanno le cose all'interno dei confini nazionali? in general, and the speciality coffee bar, but even some of Café Europa parla con VINCENZO SANDALJ della Sandalj market – which is essentially in these are closing down. Here in Trading di Trieste the bar sector – is basically in Trieste, a large number of small recession. Now, Italy’s bars are bars have gone. In fact, the situ- Il caffè speciality in Italia – traditionally financed by roast- ation in Italy has been changing ers, on more or less five-year dramatically and a big restruc- sfide e prospettive contracts, covering equipment turing is taking place. Italy has and coffee supplies. With the largest number of coffee bars in Café Europa: Innanzitutto, come va il mercato dello speciality in general contraction in Italian the world – some 90,000 bars, Italia? consumer spending, bars are and a total of some 200,000 Vincenzo Sandalj: I consumi in Italia in generale ristagnano, e il merca- seeing a deep contraction in outlets counting bars, restau- to dello speciality – essenzialmente nel settore bar – è fondamental- their turnover. And while coffee rants and trattorias. With a pop- mente in recessione. Ora, i bar italiani sono tradizionalmente finanziati is proving more resilient than ulation of around 60 million, dai torrefattori, con contratti di più o meno 5 anni, che coprono l’at- other beverages in this regard, this means there is a trezzatura e le forniture di caffè. Con la generale contrazione della the bars’ falling overall turnover bar/restaurant for every 300 spesa per il consumatore italiano, i bar stanno assistendo ad una rile- makes it harder for them to people. In the long term, this vante riduzione del loro giro d’affari. E se il caffè si sta dimostrando repay their debts to roasters, situation has to change, and più resistente di altre bevande a questo proposito, la complessiva cadu- creating strains on the entire many outlets will have to close, ta del fatturato rende più difficile ai gestori dei bar ripagare i propri sector. In this environment, it is simply in order to restore a debiti ai torrefattori, e questo crea tensione nell’intero settore. In harder to talk about higher more realistic ratio. Most of questo scenario, è difficile parlare dei caffè di qualità superiore, più quality, more expensive coffees. these are tiny businesses run by costosi. Piuttosto, i proprietari dei bar chiedono ai torrefattori caffè più Instead, bar owners are asking one person or family, operating economici o prezzi inferiori, ed è a questo che i torrefattori devono roasters for cheaper coffee or on a very marginal return. The dare risposte. lower prices, and roasters have future of Italy’s traditional way had to respond to this. of enjoying coffee will really Café Europa: Quali aree di possibile crescita ci sono? depend on how things develop Vincenzo Sandalj: Come ultimi arrivati, i pochissimi bar di speciality che Café Europa: What areas for these small bars. si stanno affermando e che presentano il caffè speciality sono stati lan- of growth are there? ciati da catene o gruppi e non dalle solite ditte a carattere familiare in Vincenzo Sandalj: As for new- This is also part of a wider genere finanziate dai torrefattori cui tradizionalmente fa capo circa il comers, the very few speciality trend. Many retail shops are 90% delle caffetterie d’Italia. Quindi, c’è un piccolo settore in espan- bars emerging and introducing also closing down. Large shop- sione di bar e catene che utilizzano capitali propri. Oggi sono questi i speciality coffee have been ping malls are springing up out- soggetti in gioco più innovativi, ma, anche così, la situazione non è launched by chains or groups – side our city centres, causing molto favorevole e la fase non è delle migliori. Qui e là c’è un po’ di not by the family-owned busi- shrinkage in their commercial domanda di novità, ma nel complesso il mercato è depresso. nesses usually financed by activity.
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