France Inside out 5 – Paris Programnr: 11134Tv 5
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Al’écoute 2001/2002 France inside out 5 – Paris Programnr: 11134tv 5 FRANCE INSIDE OUT 5 - PARIS Sändningsdatum: 19/5 2002 i SVT2 Presenters: Peter Lowe and Wendy Robbins Dialogue David I’ve been living in Paris for the past 15 years and still haven’t tired of its charms. But I must say I haven’t thought of getting around the place by bike, which is what I’ll be doing when I discover that the best way to visit the city is on 2 wheels with a friend. I’ll also be getting the inside track of how to stay ahead of the pack when it comes to leading a fashionable lifestyle. Wendy I’ve been to Paris before but never the countryside around it. There are dozens of fascinating villages and castles hidden away in the forests and farmland around the capital. I’ll be exploring Vaux-le-Vicomte - a chateau with a tragic past, so beautiful it was the inspiration for Versailles. And I’ll be visiting the little riverside village of Auvers where Van Gogh painted some of his greatest work. David Paris is synonymous with traffic jams, impatient drivers and blaring horns, so who’d have thought that the humble bicycle would be taking off in a big way? With more and more Parisians taking to two wheels to beat the traffic, new cycle lanes are being created. Which is good news for any visitor wanting to take alternative transport around the sights. A bike is a really efficient way of getting around Paris, according to Christiane at least. She says I’ll be so busy looking at the sights that I won’t notice the kilometres going by. How many are we doing again? Christiane Ober Oh barely 20kms. David Barely 20! Well, I hope it doesn’t rain. David Christiane has promised me romance, in the form of a guided tour of the city’s most romantic spots. And how could I refuse. Paris isn’t often thought of as a green city, yet it’s home to over a dozen parks, and the Parisians are very fond of them. The Parc des Buttes Chaumont is the city’s answer to Hampstead Heath. This is where you come to get a different perspective on the place and see Parisians at rest and at play. 1 Al’écoute 2001/2002 France inside out 5 – Paris Programnr: 11134tv 5 Cycling isn’t really allowed but, as Christiane points out, what could be more romantic than the danger of getting caught? David Phew! Christiane And this is the temple of love. David I see that the young lovers have covered the Temple of Love with Graffiti. Christiane Ah yes - that’s modern love. David Yeah! Christiane So here we are in the Parc de Buttes Chaumont meaning in English the bold mount, since there were stone quarries and nothing was to be built here….. Napoleon the third wanted to make out of Paris a green city. And the idea, the model was a landscape park, what we call a romantic park but, of course, with this temple dedicated to love it’s more known as the temple of “Sybille”. Sybille was one of the priestesses of Apollo - not the rocket, of course, it’s a god of love and beauty and er young couples in the tradition used to come and consult the Omens. What was laying ahead for their future. So it’s a very powerful place. David And do lovers still come here? Christiane Yeah, sure. David Well I can see they do actually…. Momo Chamcy (?) Leon et Sandrine, 24th Sept 1999. It’s quite sweet! You can even see Sacre Coeur from here. But it’s time to move on and Christiane reckons I’m ready to grapple with the Parisian traffic. I’m not so sure. But she does take me to one of the city’s quieter backwaters, the picturesque Marais, built on swamp land in the 17th century. The arcades in the Place des Vosges used to be popular for duels. These days you’re more likely to be serenaded than shot. Some of the back streets in the Marais have little or no traffic at all. Cycling around here is like going back in time. Christiane So that’s one of my favourite spots in Paris, it’s called St Catherine’s square and we are here in the Marais. It’s dedicated to the Patron Saints of Spinsters - her story has it that she was living in the 4th century and was to marry the Emperor himself. But she refused because she was already married to God - so there was a tradition in the 19th century where the maiden, maids when they got to the age of 25 they were supposed to be old already. And they had a procession where they crowned the Saint. And it was a little bit sad because it was their last call, it was their last chance to find a husband. David So what did they call the leftovers. 2 Al’écoute 2001/2002 France inside out 5 – Paris Programnr: 11134tv 5 Christiane They called them the “Catherine-ettes. It was kind of an honour, you know. David An honour. Christiane A said honour actually. David They got the booby prize. Christiane What’s the “Booby Prize”? David Cemeteries have never seemed like the obvious choice for a romantic tryst to me, but Pere Lachaise is pretty special, even in the rain. It’s list of resting luminaries reads like some necrophiliac “Who’s Who”: Bizet, Chopin, Edith Piaf and Sarah Bernhardt are all here. Yves Montand and Simone Signoret are even buried in the same tomb. But it’s the love story of a much older couple that Christiane wants to tell me about. Christiane Here we are in front of Abelard and Heloise’s tomb. They were living in the 12th century both of them and when they met he was in his 40s and she was in her 20s. And the story has it that she was his student and she was ??? teacher and what shouldn’t have happened and she got pregnant and as a punishment her adopted father sent men to castrate him … so, they were forced to live separately for the rest of their lives. He in an abbey and she in a convent. But they continued writing passionate love letters to each other and that’s how we know them. So in the 19th century when they opened this cemetery they put their remains together for the first time in the ultimate romantic tomb. David That’s a pretty sad story, even in the rain. I think we should go now. Vaux-le-Vicomte Story Wendy I’m driving south of Paris and I’m on my way to meet Count Patrice de Vogüé. He’s the owner of a Chateau who’s history is laced with ambition, jealousy and betrayal. And it also happens to be one of the most beautiful chateaux in France. Vaux-Le-Vicomte has been in the Count’s family since 1875 when his great-grandfather fell in love with it, bought it and started the long process of restoration. Count The house is sound now. I have a little roofing to do every year, but that’s all. Wendy That’s all! Count Come in. Wendy Thank you. 3 Al’écoute 2001/2002 France inside out 5 – Paris Programnr: 11134tv 5 This jewel of 17th Century design was built for Nicholas Fouquet. He was a real character, a man of great style and taste and he hired the most talented artists of the age. Wendy So where are we off to now? Count We’re going to la Chambre des Muses, Room of the Muses. Wendy Room of Inspiration. Count Yes exactly. Wendy And why is this room important? Count It’s one of the most beautiful rooms of the house. It has a decor that you can see there, painted by Le Brun, one of his best paintings here. Count It’s also a room, where Molière came here, “L’école des Maris”, (?) in July 61 for a few guests among which, the Queen of England. Here we are in the Games Room, as you can see it’s a very small room but it’s a magnificent one. With that woman on the ceiling painted by Le Brun, it’s asleep. Wendy It’s beautiful. Count In this small room time has passed now as you can see there are pictures of the family. There’s one which is amusing - my great grandfather, the man who saved Vaux, welcoming his grandson, my father, as a baby, in the carriage. Count In the 17th century there were no dining rooms, people had their meals brought where they were. And it is probably here that for the first time Fouquet invented, or decided to have a room where he would eat - a dining room. Here it is. And the food was brought from the far away kitchen in the basement, on heated trays and served here. Wendy So was this one of the first dining rooms in France? Count I believe so. Wendy The gardens, were also a first. Their creator, Andre Le Notre, was barely known when Fouquet hired him. But his achievement was such a triumph that Louis XIV invited him to design the gardens at Versailles. Today’s head gardener, has a hard act to follow! He tells me Le Notre was an architect and a mathematician, which helps to explain the brilliant optical illusion at play in these gardens - so subtle I hadn’t even spotted it.