PARIS FOR YOU! Walking guide for discovering 2014/2015 discovering Paris Walking guidefor

(2014/2015) FOR YOU! PARIS

Paris for YoU, WelcoMe!

Just how you imagined it … Paris has something for everyone in a multifaceted, magical, mythical and sometimes surprising capital that is always exciting.

People come to Paris to admire its exceptional architectural and cultural heritage, which makes it one of the world’s most beautiful cities. This dynamic heritage is constantly being updated and enriched. Paris is also the capital of gastronomy, fashion and shopping – a city where something is always happening. it is committed to the notions of quality of life and sustainable development and offers its inhabitants and visitors a particularly pleasant setting. innovative, audacious and vibrant, Paris is truly a 21st-century metropolis.

The Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau has created this guide to help you discover the many aspects of the city and the surrounding areas, to accompany you as you visit Paris, all of Paris, according to your time here, your interests or simply your spur of the moment impulses.

The What’s on? section features the top events in Paris, month by month. Thirteen walks take you on a discovery tour of Parisian districts, where you can enjoy the many different atmospheres of Paris and the Paris region, at the same pace as their inhabitants. And whatever you are looking for – culture, entertainment, trips, outings, etc. – you will get the most out of the French capital with the address Book at the end of the guide.

We are delighted to share the city’s treasures with you. So, here is Paris for you. Have a great stay!

Scan the QR code to stay connected to ParisinFo.com

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contents not-to-be-missed events, 13 walks and an address bookpar to Bertrand get the most Delanoë, out of the french capital. Maire de Paris

p.7 Paris conVention p.60 cHic Paris anD Visitors BUreaU Auteuil (16th) / (16th) / Porte Maillot (16th) / p.10 WHat’s on? , (16th) ➔ surrounding area: Hauts-de- WalKs p.66 MYtHical Paris p.16 riVer seine Paris (8th) / Rivers Seine / Bridges / Quays / Champs-Élysées (8th) / Ports (1st) / (1st) p.20 tiMeless Paris p.72 UnDiscoVereD Paris Île de la Cité (4th) / Quartier Viaduc des Arts (12th) / latin (5th) / Île Saint-Louis (4th) / Place d’italie (13th) / Bercy (12th), Jardin des Plantes (5th) Tolbiac (13th) / p.28 trenDY Paris (12th) Marais (4th) / Montorgueil (2nd) / ➔ surrounding area: Val-de-Marne Hôtel de Ville (4th) / (1st) p.34 GlaMoroUs Paris p.78 cosMoPolitan Paris Palais Royal (1st) / Madeleine (8th) / Canal Saint-Martin (10th) / opéra (9th) / Grands La Villette (19th) / Buttes- Boulevards (9th) Chaumont (19th) / Belleville (20th) ➔ surrounding area: p.40 VillaGe Paris Seine-Saint-Denis (18th) / Pigalle (9th) / Saint-Georges (9th) / Trinité (9th) / p.84 PeoPle’s Paris Batignolles (17th) République (10th) / (11th) / oberkampf (11th) / p.48 artists’ Paris Père-Lachaise (20th) Musée d’orsay (7th) / Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th) / p.88 siGHtseeinG in Île-De- Luxembourg (6th) / (14th) aDDress BooK p.54 MonUMental Paris p.94 Along the water Tour Eiffel (7th) / Champ-de-Mars (15th) / p.94 Culture and museums invalides (7th) / Trocadéro (16th) p.95 outdoor city life p.97 Parisian nights p.100 Artistic creation p.100 Getting around

p.101 inDex

3 toP sites Pick of landmark places to discover in and around Paris. par Bertrand Delanoë, Maire de Paris

Hauts-de-Seine (92)

MontMartre Village Paris p.41

ChaMPs-élysées Mythical Paris p.67

Bois de Boulogne Chic Paris p.61

tour eiffel Monumental Paris p.55

inValides Monumental Paris p.56 Musée d’orsay Artists’ Paris p.49

Artists’ Paris p.51 River Seine

Château de Versailles f Sightseeing in Île-de-france p.89

Paris is made up of 20 ‘arrondissements’ (administrative districts). 1 km 4 Seine-Saint-Denis (93)

la Villette Cosmopolitan Paris p.79

Palais garnier oPéra de Paris Glamorous Paris p.35

Musée du louVre Mythical Paris p.68 Trendy Paris p.29

PlaCe de la Bastille People’s Paris p.85

notre-daMe de Paris Timeless Paris p.21 quartier latin Timeless Paris p.22

doCks en seine River Seine Paris p.17 BiBliothÈque de franCe Undiscovered Paris p.75

Bois de VinCennes Undiscovered Paris p.73

disneyland® Paris f Sightseeing in Île-de-france p.90

Val-de-Marne (94)

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Paris conVention anD Visitors BUreaU the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau is your key contact for preparing your trip to Paris, and for helping you to have a wonderful stay when you arrive.

WeBsite Parisinfo.coM All the latest events, museums, walks, hotels, trans- port, practical information, and more. Discover the destination and organize your stay with the help of the Bureau’s website (in French, English, German and Spanish). At the online boutique, book your accommodation and purchase all the essential tourist products. Paris je t'aime @ParisOTC

MaPs anD GUiDeBooKs in addition to this guide, the Bureau provides complimentary publications, notably: - the map-guide in ten languages (French, English, German, Spanish, italian, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Chinese and Korean); - the French-English Paris gourmand/Good food guide; - the French-English Paris Shopping Book guide; - the French-English brochure of guided thematic visits Paris se visite/ Visiting Paris. - the French-English brochure Green living in Paris. Ask for these at the Bureau’s information centres!

Available for 2, 3 or 5 days, the Paris city Passport is a package put together by the Bureau; it includes a travel pass, a museum pass, a cruise, a bus tour, etc. Save time and money with up to 20% off the original price! on sale at the Bureau’s tourist information points and on ParisinFo.com.

7 inforMation centres The Bureau’s reception staff will answer your enquiries and give you advice in your own language, in our offices (see below). At the information centres, you can: - purchase passes for cultural venues or theme parks; - choose a coach tour, a cruise on the Seine, an evening at a cabaret, etc; - book the accommodation of your choice, in Paris or Île-de-France.

Main office Gare de l’Est 25 rue des (1st). Place du 11-Novembre-1918 (10th). M° Pyramides, Tuileries and Opéra; RER A Auber. On the arrival side of the TGV international – 2 May to 31 Oct: daily, 9am to 7pm. Rue d’Alsace side. M° Gare de l’Est. 1 Nov to 30 Apr: daily, 10am to 7pm. Daily: 8am to 7pm, except Sun and public hols. Closed 1 May. 20 bd Diderot (12th). M° and RER A and D Gare de Lyon. Daily: 8am to 6pm, except Sun and public hols. Anvers 72 bd de Rochechouart (9th). M° Anvers. Daily: 10am to 6pm, except 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. 18 rue de Dunkerque (10th). At the kiosk, under glass roof of train station. M° and RER B and D Gare du Nord. Daily: 8am to 6pm, except 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec.

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i Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau information centres i Partner welcome centres

8 Partner welcome centres • Comité Régional du Tourisme • Le Kiosque Théâtre Paris Île-de-France (regional tourist board) - Paris – Charles de Gaulle Airport: terminals 1, 2C, - Opposite 15 place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine. 2D, 2E and 2F – Arrivals level. - Esplanade of the (15th). - Paris – Orly Airport: terminals Sud and Ouest – M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe. Arrivals level. Tues to Sat: 12.30pm to 8pm. Sun: 12.30pm to 4pm. - Versailles: 2 bis avenue de Paris. www.kiosquetheatre.com - Disneyland® Paris: Espace de Tourisme d’Île-de- • Montmartre tourist office France et de Seine-et-Marne – place François-Truffaut. 21 (18th). M° Abbesses. www.visitparisregion.com Mon to Fri: 10am to 6pm, except 1 May. Sat and Sun: 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm. Tel: 01 42 62 21 21. www.montmartre-guide.com

DisaBleD PeoPle You can find all the information you need on tourist facilities accessible to disabled people and adapted services essential for an enjoyable stay on ParisinFo.com, in the Disabled access file in each rubric (information available in French and English). in this guide, cultural and leisure sites with the tourisme & Handicap label gua- rantee a high level of accessibility for disabled people in terms of the amenities and services on offer. A venue bearing this label does not necessarily cater for each of the four main categories of disability (physical, mental, auditive or visual disabilities). You should therefore check the pictograms depicting the type of disability this venue is suitable for. in order to see if you benefit from a special rate for disabled persons, you should bring a medical certificate that has been issued within the last three months. The RATP, SnCF and STiF provide specific facilities and services. For more infor- mation: - www.infomobi.com or 09 70 81 83 85 (non-surcharged call). Daily: 7am-10pm (closed: 1 May); - www.ratp.fr or 32 46 (€0.34/min). 7am-9pm weekdays (weekends and public hols: 9am-5.15pm); - www.transilien.com or 08 10 76 74 33 (price of a local call from a landline). Daily: 7am-8pm.

Pictograms abbreviations Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau. M°: metro station. i Mon: Monday, Tues: Tuesday, etc. + Tickets on sale in the offices of the Bureau Jan: January, feb: february, etc. and/or on Parisinfo.com RR: reduced rate. W/e: weekend (Saturday, Sunday). PMP Sites included in the Paris Museum Pass (see p.95). Wk: weekday (Monday, Tuesday, etc.). 7th: 7th arrondissement. Activities for children. Sch hols: school holidays. Sites with the national Res: reservation. Public hols: public holidays. Tourism & Handicap label. info: information. EU: European Union.

9 WHat’s on? Calendar of not-to-be-missed Paris events from May 2014 to June 2015.

*free events

Paris JaZZ festiVal* fÊte nationale CinéMa au Clair (Bastille day)* The venues hosting the de lune* Paris jazz festival are The popular firemen’s Every evening at nightfall, open every weekend for balls are held in Paris on an area of Paris – a park, jazz, blues and world the evenings of 13 and garden, square or lawn music concerts, etc. 14 July. The traditional – is transformed into an Tribute to South Africa military parade takes open-air cinema, with with concerts by native place on the Champs- a film shown on a giant artists bearing witness to Élysées on 14 July, as outdoor screen. the vitality of jazz in their does the fireworks display early-aug. country. that attracts large crowds www.forumdesimages.fr (12th). to the . from 8 Jun. until 28 July. www.parisinfo.com www.parisjazzfestival.fr

June July august fÊte de la Musique* Paris Plages (Paris-BeaChes)* The beginning of summer is celebrated with in summer, the banks music until late into the of the river Seine and the night. Professional and La Villette Canal basin amateur musicians take are transformed into a to the streets, squares, free beach resort with gardens, churches, bars palm trees, deckchairs, fÊte du and clubs of the city to sporting activities and 70e anniVersaire give free concerts. cultural events on offer. de la liBération 21 June. from mid-July. until de Paris www.parisinfo.com mid-aug. (70th anniVersary of the liBeration of Paris)* www.paris.fr For the 70th anniversary arriVée du tour of the Liberation of de franCe Paris, numerous events (finish of tour de franCe)* have been organized The Tour de France (exhibitions, shows, begins in England (Leeds) etc.) to prolong the and finishes three weeks celebrations. later with the triumphant 25 aug. arrival of the top cyclists www.paris.fr on the Champs-Élysées. 27 July. www.letour.fr 10 fondation Mondial de Christian laCroix louis Vuitton l’autoMoBile Costumes – veritable The opening of the (Paris Motor show) textile artworks – Fondation Louis Vuitton The world’s biggest motor designed by Christian pour l’art contemporain show where visitors can Lacroix, alongside the in a glass building admire the power and museum’s collections designed by Franck elegance of concept cars of decorative artworks Gehry. An exceptional and the ecologically- from the 18th century. setting housing minded driver can Musée cognacq–Jay (3rd). collections of modern discover the latest hybrid from 19 nov. 2014 and contemporary art. and electric models. until 19 apr. 2015. sept. Paris expo www.paris.fr www.fondation Porte de Versailles (15th). Jeff koons louisvuitton.fr from 4 until 19 oct. www.mondial Exhibition tracing teChnoParade* automobile.com 35 years of work by An impressive parade this contemporary artist. of floats for all lovers Koons questions the of techno and electronic glorification of consumer music and for curious- products and popular minded visitors. figures. 20 sept. centre Pompidou (4th). www.technoparade.fr from 26 nov. until 27 apr. 2015. www.centrepompidou.fr

sePteMBer oCtoBer noVeMBer

Journées nuit BlanChe Paris Photo euroPéennes (sleePless night)* one hundred or so du PatriMoine From 7pm to dawn, exhibitors make this (euroPean heritage days)* interactive works, photography fair The Élysée Palace (official concerts of images, the world’s largest. residence of the French live shows … give the A comprehensive president), town halls, public free access to overview of international backstage of theatres … contemporary creation. photographic creation. open exceptionally for free night of 4 to 5 oct. (8th). or reduced rate visits. www.paris.fr from 13 to 16 nov. 20 and 21 sept. www.parisphoto.com niki de saint Phalle www.journeesdu patrimoine.culture.fr A retrospective of the work of niki de Saint MarCel duChaMP Phalle (1930-2002) – Exhibition devoted to the painter and sculptor – pictorial work of Marcel author of performances Duchamp, with a hundred such as Tirs or famous or so works from 1910 sculptural pieces like to 1923, little-known in the Stravinsky Fountain. Europe, on display. Grand Palais (8th). centre Pompidou (4th). from 8 oct. 2014 from 24 sept. until 5 Jan. until 18 Jan. 2015. 2015. www.grandpalais.fr www.centrepompidou.fr 11 illuMinations* six nations For the end of year ChaMPionshiP festivities, ‘Paris in their quest to become illuminates Paris’, the European champions, the City commissions artists French team will take on to create illuminations for the Welsh Red Dragons more than 120 streets. for the opening match of The result is a captivating this great sporting event. circuit: rivers of garlands (93). and other original 6 feb. 2015. creations decorate the sales www.parisinfo.com night in a magical way. in January (and July) nouVel an Chinois www.parisinfo.com for a maximum duration (Chinese new year)* of five weeks, shops sell Traditional costumes, last season’s stock dragons, masks, folk at 20 to 60% off the dances and acrobatic original price. feats to celebrate Jan. and Jul. 2015. the Year of the Goat. www.parisinfo.com 13th arrondissement. 19 feb. 2015. www.parisinfo.com

deCeMBer January feBruary

MarChés de noël Paris faCe CaChée* (ChristMas Markets)* Discover unusual parts As the year draws to a of Paris. The destination close, the Christmas is kept secret until your Markets are an important subscription has been family event that attracts confirmed. visitors from all over the end-Jan. 2015. capital with decorations, www.parisfacecachee.fr regional specialties and salon de unusual gift ideas for sale. grand Prix d’aMérique* l’agriCulture www.parisinfo.com (agriCultural show) This is the 94th edition of nautiC, salon 1,300 exhibitors and over the world championship nautique de Paris 4,000 animals make this harness race that fills the (Paris nautiCal fair) fair a not-to-be-missed grandstands with excited event. The Salon is also This is an event that’s spectators and generates an outstanding showcase not to be missed for all record bets. A very for French gastronomy. lovers of water sports popular event! Paris expo from sailing to motorboat Hippodrome de Paris Porte de Versailles (15th). racing. Vincennes (12th). end-feb. 2015. Paris expo end-Jan. 2015. www.salon-agriculture.com Porte de Versailles (15th). www.prix-amerique.com from 6 until 14 Dec. www.salonnautiqueparis.com

12 daVid Bowie is … Marathon de Paris After great success in one of the world’s five , the exhibition biggest marathons, the visits Paris and retraces Paris event welcomes the 50-year career of 40,000 amateur and this pop icon. Costumes, professional runners on videos, photographs, its mythic route through personal objects, etc. the streets of the capital cité de la Musique (19th). (42.195 km). nuit des Musées from 2 Mar. until Departure point: av. des (MuseuM night)* 31 May 2015. champs-Élysées (8th). www.citedelamusique.fr 2nd w/e of apr. 2015. From 6pm to midnight, www.schneiderelectric the public can visit salon du liVre parismarathon.com Parisian museums (Book fair) and cultural sites The Salon du livre is foire du trône free of charge. Many the annual rendezvous A Ferris wheel, thrilling establishments vie with for booklovers and has rides, tombola, and each other for unusual something to cater to all attractions for children … ideas in order to come up tastes: novels, comics, plenty of fun guaranteed with a rich programme manga, cookery books, etc. for children and adults. of special events for the Paris expo Pelouse de reuilly (12th). occasion. Porte de Versailles (15th). Bois de Vincennes. Mid-May 2015. end-Mar. 2015. end-Mar. until end-May. www.nuitdesmusees. www.salondulivreparis.com www.foiredutrone.com culture.fr

MarCh aPril May

PrinteMPs du CinéMa (CineMa sPring festiVal) (the ) With films showing Competition is fierce for €3.50 a ticket, this and some of the greatest three-day festival makes champions, including cinema accessible to Borg, Connors, Evert and everyone. This event is nadal have forged their very popular with cinema foire de Paris reputation at the world’s buffs! A place to do business and greatest tournament Mid-Mar. 2015. to sample new products played on clay courts. www.printemps and services guaranteed stade roland-Garros (16th). ducinema.com to make daily life run end-May 2015. www.rolandgarros.com CarnaVal de Paris* a little more smoothly, this fair covers a range The Carnaval de Paris of areas with everything (or Promenade du Bœuf from gastronomy to world gras) is an open-air culture and interior design celebration on the streets to private swimming of Paris with a festive and pools. musical parade going Paris expo from the place Gambetta Porte de Versailles (15th). to the Hôtel de Ville. end-apr. until early- early-Mar. 2015. May 2015. www.paris.fr www.foiredeparis.fr

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riVer seine PARiS downstream. upstream and thetriumphanteiffel tower to thetransformation ofthe quays atBercy from its birthplace ontheÎle delaCité not sink’. theseinetells thestory ofParis, mergitur –‘itisbuffeted bythewaves butdoes Paris owes its motto to theseine,fluctuat nec willow trees … a naval construction yard between weeping in thedistance, thesilhouette ofacrane in of astreet musicianplaying aviolinand, notre-dame looming upto thesound playing hideandseekwithapleasure boat, mallard ducks circling inthewater, thelouvre of thegrand andPetit Palais, people fishing, through thearch ofabridge you’ll catch sight the pleasure ofpedestrians in2013. heritage site byunesco, andredesigned for wonder attheseriverbanks, classed asaworld in aswimsuit.you never fail to befilled with taking apost-shopping break, orsunbathing (les docks, Center for fashion and design), exhibitions attheCité delamodeetdudesign barges, exploring anarea between two lazily, orworking out,dining,dancingon a boat,cycling, walking briskly, sauntering there are anynumberofways to relax –aboard the quaysides andthelappingofwaves. you willappreciate thebuzzofactivityalong or nighttime,leftBankrightBank, on theriver, its bridgesandislands.daytime of enjoying athousand different escapades following theseinethrough Paris isaway • Ports • quays • Bridges • river seine E A A L V. DE L V A B A RÉ PF E . D Y R D PUBL RKAM E O R UE IQU OBE N S A . D RÉA V E RUE C R R V E UM O G H . S UR I A U L A M E E D PE PLACE DES TA A T P U S Pyramides E TI RUE I V. Rue St-Maur S T- T RÉ R Parmentier DE N -É R H L S AU E L GRAND O ’ -C VICTOIRES M F A PLACE DE L O UR R O YS Concorde NO HA Filles du MP ÉPU ÉE R P M A BL M PALAIS PETIT É É P K IQ L’ALMA . S S Arts R ER UE V R . Calvaire B PLACE DE DE O A Tuileries A Étienne RUE ST-DENIS Alma- ER PALAIS et Métiers BR UE 1 COURS LA REINE RUE DE RIV ET R COURS ALBERT Marcel AG Marceau LA CONCORDE NE

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L‘ALMA PONT DE S

PONT DES E QUAI D’ORSAY R Pont de V A L’Alma L N O B P D BRANLY JARDIN DES O AV. FORUM CENTRE Richard V T R I O TUILERIES S Lenoir

Louvre POMPIDOU S L DES HALLES I

MUSÉE A O T Rivoli A A B Rambuteau N E I La Tour Assemblée DU LOUVRE É R H R TE

S . L E T ARCHIVES C TOUR EIFFEL D E Maubourg Nationale Châtelet E QU

D E S R O QUAI Musée F NATIONALES A R D R

R A L A DE Solférino d’Orsay N A E D CS M RU

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MUSÉE St-Germain PARiS DES - D DE MARS G LA CITÉ HÔTEL L AV. DE Cité PLACE L

AV. DE SUFFREN E des-Prés B INVALIDES RODIN RM Bastille O BDRASPAIL DE VILLE AIN St-Michel DES VOSGES R St-Paul U HÔTEL NOTRE- R St-François D RUE D NE LA MOTTE PICQUET IV E E CHARON Xavier MATIGNON ÎLE Y L Sèvres DAME R L . EN V ÉCOLE Odéon Cluny H A Babylone ST-LOUIS BD OPÉRA INVALIDES R MILITAIRE ST-SULPICE La Sorbonne UE D Maubert BASTILLE U FAU R. DES ÉCOLES BOURG S AV. DE SAXE MUSÉE Mutualité Sully Ledru AINT-ANTOINE Rennes Morland IN LL Rollin DU LUXEMBOURG SEINE O Faidherbe RUE D'ASSAS BD ST-MICHEL R UNIVERSITÉS L. T Chaligny RUE DE SÈVRES JARDIN DU BASSIN DE L’ARSENA . ERO B D PANTHÉON V Gare de D DID Duroc LUXEMBOURG A B A Lyon V. NECKER BOULEVARD R. DE RENNES Cardinal D RASPAIL Quai de AU H Luxembourg Lemoine M Jussieu JARDIN la Rapée GARE ES QUAI DE LA RAPÉE NI Falguière DES PLANTES Q i DE LYON L U DU MONTPARNASSE A Gare I seine riVer Pasteur D d’Austerlitz ’A H BD ST-MICHEL U Port- GARE S Montparnasse Vavin T Royal Censier D’AUSTERLITZ E PASTEUR Bienvenüe Edgar VAL DE GRÂCE R L Quinet H Daubenton IT GARE BD Z MONTPARNASSE ST-VINCENT PORT- DE AV. DES GOBELINS H H POR R. J. ZAY Raspail DE PAUL ROYAL T RO H YAL BD ST-MARCEL AV. DU MAINE COCHIN D Gobelins AN LA PITIÉ- H MINISTÈRE ER Quai Denfert-Rochereau BD ARAGO SALPÊTRIÈRE QUAI DE BERCY SS DES FINANCES O de la Gare Pernety L D PLACE N Chevaleret O BD DE L'HÔPITAL BIBLIOTHÈQUE M DENFERT-ROCHEREAU AY PLACE NATIONALE R 250 m BD VINCENT AURIOL PARC DE R. D’ITALIE Place d’Italie DE FRANCE BERCY Pont de l’Alma (RER C) • Musée d’Orsay (RER C) • Alma - Marceau (line 9) • Cité (line 4) R U C E T IA Cour N N B • Sully - Morland (line 7) • Saint-Michel (line 4) • Quai de la Gare (line 5) O L A P O St-Émilion BD T T I E AU I O D GU U N S Q A A T N V L E A A L T . E V B O D . PLACE C PLACE L E A L D I I C NATIONALEJEANNE D’ARC B ’

B I H L O T O A O T B L I E Don’t Miss S E I D E Bibliothèque Y E U U R R Fr. Mitterand BIAC E TOL Bridges of Paris wooden footbridge, which links les Docks,RUE D cité de the weighty knowledge of the la mode et du design These thirty-seven bridges offer Bibliothèque nationale library to stunning views of the city seen Designed by the architects the gardens of Bercy in a graceful, from the river and recount thirty- Jakob+Macfarlane, the Cité uplifting arch. That leaves thirty-two seven wonderful stories of kings, de la mode et du design seeks bridges: discover your favourite. battles, legends, etc., to discover to familiarize the public with with the wind in your hair. Since all types of fashion, beauty and it was built in 1604, the , design. The site includes concept Paris’s oldest bridge with its stores, exhibition spaces, 385 sculpted masks and famous the french fashion institute and half-moon-shaped turrets, has the Musée Art ludique … seen the entire The 2,500 m2 terrace, go by. The Pont Alexandre iii, accessible to the public, offers seine riverside star of the 1900 Exposition an exceptional view over the river. booksellers Universelle, is a celebration on the corner of the pont of franco-Russian friendship for four hundred years, booksellers charles-de-gaulle. with an exuberance of sculpted offering an array of great and 34 quai d’austerlitz (13th). nymphs and garlands, bronze less familiar literature have lined m° Quai de la gare. candelabras and gleaming gold the embankment walls on both www.paris-docks-en-seine.fr equestrian statuary. The Pont sides of the river, from the Pont Daily: 12pm-midnight. des Arts – the haunt of lovers – Royal to the Pont de Sully. Each www.citemodedesign.fr is also a favourite place to linger of these small green boxes offers for dreamers and picnickers, up a marvellous assortment of as is the Léopold-Sédar-Senghor rare books, original editions, footbridge, which links the engravings, postcards, illustrated Musée d’orsay to the Tuileries journals, comic strips, novels, gardens. The city’s most recent or intriguing odds and ends, bridge is the Simone de Beauvoir to passers-by. 17 DiscoVer

square du Vert-Galant its head nearby, one would almost think this marina was a seaside harbour. Sheltered from the river’s Henry iV was not considered a Don Juan or a ebb and flow by a lock, the canal basin of this former Casanova, simply because they hadn’t been born when mercantile port links the River Seine with the Saint- he was alive. However, this great king of france was Martin Canal. The port provides 180 mooring spots well-known for his amorous exploits. This square, and a picturesque terraced garden where you can accessible from the steps on the Pont neuf, carries its step back onto terra firma. royal nickname to great effect and forms the western point of the Île de la Cité. The equestrian statue of the monarch dominates the small garden and forms did you know? an intimate haven of calm, or romance – if your heart Those firemen are everywhere, even near the be so inclined – from which to admire the two banks Pont neuf, on a floating fire station. from here, of the Seine, its bridges and monuments. they can patrol the Seine in dinghies or in light watercraft. Rescue, evacuation, assistance to boats, floods, fire along the waterside – whatever the emergency, they’re on the alert. Jardin tino-rossi ? The Saint-Bernard quayside on the Left Bank, between Pont de Sully and Pont d’Austerlitz, has been turned into a pleasant garden featuring works by Port de l’arsenal contemporary artists like Brancusi, César and Gilioli. The port has everything from landing stages and little During the day this outdoor museum is a boats to a harbour master’s office, gulls, and seafood paradise for joggers and walkers, while on spring restaurants. Without the Colonne de Juillet rearing and summer evenings, it becomes an open-air dance floor. Aficionados and beginners from all over the world meet up here to dance the salsa, tHe BerGes De seine rock and tango by the waterside. Magical moments guaranteed! the seine riverbanks, classed as a world heritage site by Unesco, now boast a new Joséphine-Baker swimming pool area for walks. From the musée d’orsay to the Pont de l’alma, the 2.3 km stretch is dotted with sporting facilities and fun play areas for children and adults alike, as well as plenty of places for relaxing. Don’t miss the 1,800 m² floating garden made up of five islands, moored just upstream of the Pont de l’alma. on the right bank, between the square de l’Hôtel de ville and the bassin de l’arsenal, a 1.5 km walkway has been developed. visitors Maybe you didn’t know, but floating baths were can enjoy entertainment and activities on the already fashionable in the 18th century. There were boats, a flowered lawn, the newly landscaped once several on the Seine. The Joséphine Baker square de l’Hôtel de ville with its weeping swimming pool, moored on the Left Bank, reaffirms willows, climbing plants and shrubbery … the genre in a version that is high-tech and ecologically-friendly, with all modern comforts. facilities include a main pool and a 50 m2 paddling pool for children. There are also solariums, saunas, a hammam, a jacuzzi, and a fitness and weights room. Quai François-mauriac (13th). m° Quai de la gare. information (opening times, prices and activities): www.paris.fr 18

tiMeless PARiS and thepatron saintofParis …Bonvoyage. gallo-romans atagrand event orthebaths, ladies oftimesgonebyatthehôtel deCluny, cherry-blossom trees, thejewellery offine from theMuseum,mammothsandJapanese . you willcome across scientists assembled for theirlast banquetatthe a queen,several poisoners, andthegirondins birds andtulipsatalittle flower market, on thiswalk, you will pass bishops,rare mansion housesontheÎle saint-louis. Claudel, optfor agentle walk past private and cut-throats. orlike Baudelaire andCamille charlatans, already rebellious students, on theleftBank,once bustling withhawkers, Venture through thelabyrinth ofalleyways Chapelle. series ofstained-glass windows ofsainte- sculpted facade ofnotre-dame orthesublime treasure huntanddiscover theimpressive light andmagical shadows. embarkona heart ofParis, they are charged withemotion, and Île saint-louis, whichform thehistoric in thelatinquarter andontheÎle delaCité who saidthatancientstone wasn’t exciting? • Jardin desplantes (5th) • Île saint-louis (4th) • quartierlatin(5th) • Île delaCité (4th) PARiS

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Cité (line 4) • Saint-Michel (line 4) • Odéon (lines 4, 10) • Jussieu (lines 7, 10) • Censier - Daubenton (line 7) • Cluny - La Sorbonne (line 10) • Cardinal Lemoine (line 10) Don’t Miss notre-Dame de Paris a breathtaking view across archaeological crypt the rooftops of Paris. PMP The beginning of its long of the parvis notre-Dame construction coincided with the Parvis notre-Dame. tel: 01 55 42 50 10. choice of Paris as a capital and, Place Jean-Paul-ii (4th). m° cité. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, easter sun and Whit sun. on the square in front of the cathedral cathedral, a bronze star inscribed €6 – rr: €4.50. ‘zero kilometre’ indicates the Under 14s: free. centre of the country in terms of www.crypte.paris.fr travelling distances. A symbol of Gothic art, its harmonious layout did you know? seems to be the work of just one tel: 01 42 34 56 10. During the Gallo-Roman era, architect, yet dozens followed on mon to Fri: 8am-6.45pm. the Cité began to develop from the 12th to the 19th century, sat and sun: 8am-7.15pm. around this site, the ruins the date of its restoration by Limited access on sun of which can be seen in Viollet-le-Duc. The cathedral has due to services. the crypt. witnessed , barefoot, www.cathedraledeparis.com wearing the Crown of Thorns in Île de la cité ? 1239, the coronation of towers + PMP and Île saint-louis in 1804, the celebration of the Daily except 1 Jan, 1 may Liberation of Paris in 1944 … and and 25 Dec. Despite being the birthplace of you too, as you climb the 422 steps 1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5.30pm. Paris, these two neighbouring leading to the top. Like Victor 1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6.30pm. islands, embraced by the arms Hugo’s Quasimodo, you will then Fri and sat, from 1 Jul to 31 aug: of the Seine, are very different. find yourself face to face with 10am-11pm. €8.50 – rr: €5.50. on the Île de la Cité, amid a flurry some of its grimacing gargoyles. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and of uniforms and lawyers’ gowns, You will also be able to make the 1st sun of the month (from nov you go from one historic site to acquaintance of the thirteen-ton to mar): free. another: , the bell named Emmanuel, and enjoy www.monuments-nationaux.fr Conciergerie, Sainte-Chapelle, 21 Hôtel-Dieu, notre-Dame … access to the colonnade closed sight. But reserve your praise The Pont Saint-Louis marks the during renovation work. for the upper chapel, designed boundary – often with music – www.monuments-nationaux.fr to house the relics of Christ’s beyond which lies the tranquility Passion, dispersed during the of sumptuous mansion houses. , and lined A refuge for artists and poets, the with predominantly red and blue Île Saint-Louis is also a haven for did you know? stained-glass windows – the gourmets judging by the profusion Léon foucault performed his largest expanse of 13th century of restaurants, cafes, ice-cream famous pendulum (not visible stained glass in the world. makers and confectioners, whose until 2016) experiment in order 8 bd du Palais (1st). m° cité. tempting windows line the rue to demonstrate the movement Daily except 1 Jan, 1 may Saint-Louis-en-l’Île. or rotation of the Earth. and 25 Dec. summer: 9.30am-6pm. Winter: Quartier latin? 9am-5pm. Wed (mid-may to mid-sept): 9.30pm. on the Left Bank, in the vicinity €8.50 – rr: €5.50. of the University founded in combined ticket with the the 12th century, Latin was the conciergerie: €12.50 – rr: €8.50. language most commonly spoken Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and Panthéon + PMP by professors and students. This 1st sun of the month (from nov its dome dominates the Latin tradition seems to have died out to mar): free. Quarter and gives its name but the name remains. Around the www.monuments-nationaux.fr to the similarly solemn square, Sorbonne, the Collège de france, conciergerie + PMP at the centre of which it stands. prestigious schools and the This colossal civic temple worthily Sainte-Geneviève library, there The Conciergerie was once a royal upholds the motto inscribed on are still numerous bookshops, palace. imagine the enormous its pediment that honours the publishers, and cafes, where Salle des Gens d’Armes with nations great men. An irony of students revise for their exams, two thousand persons sitting history, this monument dedicated as well as tiny art-house cinemas. down to eat, and kitchens buzzing to Republican liturgies was of course, the Saint-Michel fountain with kitchen boys. Above all the commissioned by Louis XV in 1744 is not only a meeting point for Conciergerie was a prison up until to honour Sainte-Geneviève. students, many businesses have the 19th century: the regicidal But with the Revolution underway, now moved into the area, but the Ravaillac, Marie-Antoinette and the scarcely finished basilica memory of Professor Abélard and many others, especially during was transformed into a civic the paving stones of May 1968 the darker days of the french temple in 1791 and consecrated still linger here and there. Revolution, spent their last as the national Panthéon in 1885, days here. sainte-chapelle + PMP at the funeral of Victor Hugo. A synthesis of neoclassical and next to the Palais de Justice Gothic-style architecture, it also (law courts), Sainte-Chapelle and houses the tombs of Pierre and the Conciergerie are the precious Marie Curie, Alexandre Dumas, remains of what was once the Jean Jaurès, André Malraux … palace of the kings of france from Place du Panthéon (5th). the 10th to the 14th century. The Palais de la cité. rer Luxembourg. Sainte-Chapelle, a triumphantly 2 bd du Palais (1st). m° cité. tel: 01 44 32 18 00. flamboyant example of the Gothic Daily: 9.30am-6pm. summer: 10am-6.30pm. style, was commissioned by 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec: closed. Winter: 10am-6pm. Saint Louis. in the lower chapel, €8.50 – rr: €5.50. combined Daily except 1 Jan, 1 may dedicated to the Virgin, gilded ticket with the sainte-chapelle: and 25 Dec. lilies on an azure-blue star- €12.50 – rr: €8.50. €7.50 – rr: €4.50. studded are a wonderful Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st sun of the month (from nov 1st sun of month (from nov to mar): free. to mar): free. www.monuments-nationaux.fr

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institut du monde arabe PMP 1 rue des Fossés-saint-bernard (5th). Arab-Muslim civilization is showcased at the centre m° Jussieu. tel: 01 40 51 38 38. of timeless Paris in this superb glass and steel tues to thurs: 10am-6pm. building, designed by Jean nouvel and Architecture Fri: late opening until 9.30pm. Studio, and built in 1987. Behind the mobile sat, sun and public hols: 10am to 7pm. moucharabiyah screens that regulate the amount mon and 1 may: closed. www.imarabe.org of sunlight entering the building, tradition and Musée de cluny - modern technology work together to set the tone. musée national du Moyen Âge PMP An ultra-modern oriental gentleness reigns over the museum, exhibition rooms, auditorium, library Since 1843, the musée de Cluny has encompassed and media library for young people, language centre, two architectural marvels: the Gallo-Roman baths, bookshop, restaurant and literary cafe. one can also dating from the end of the 1st century BC, and the enjoy temporary exhibitions, mint tea and concerts, Hôtel des Abbés de Cluny, built in the 15th century. dance and cinema, conferences, sugar-covered The main building and the wings of the hôtel reveal shortbread crescents, art workshops and more. the layout of subsequent centuries, but the Middle Ages is resplendent … and even more so inside. did you know? Sculpture, gold and silver plate, ceramics, tapestry, furniture, and everyday objects provide a unique Before coming back down to earth, you can picture of medieval art and society. Between the prolong the enchantment on the terrace little chapel sculpted with foliage and the secular and take in all of Paris in one glance! sanctuary dedicated to the La Dame à la Licorne ? (The Lady with the Unicorn) tapestries, there is collections of the iMa an extensive collection of golden crowns, Byzantine The museum’s collections showcase the very ivory, daggers and coats of chain mail. of the ancient essence of Arab-Muslim art, from ancient history Gallo-Roman baths, one can see the remains to the 20th century and from the far reaches of of the tepid baths and caldarium, a kind of sauna. central Asia to the shores of the Atlantic. Phoenician However, the best conserved part is the frigidarium. amphora and Yemenite perfume burners bear witness Here one was sprayed with cold water after passing to the pre-islamic era before the flourishing dynasties through the steam baths. See also the impressive of Damascus and Baghdad, and the blossoming fifteen-metre-high vaults and the remains of science. And finally, explore the treasures of the sculpted pillars of tritons that pay tribute of the golden age: glass, metal, ceramics, wood to the corporation of nautes (Gallic boatmen). encrusted with ivory, shell, pewter, and mother of pearl, and the ideal, sacred world of carpets.

laDY WitH tHe Unicorn Up until the 19th century, this series of six tapestries adorned the walls of a chateau 6 place Paul-Painlevé (5th). m° cluny - La sorbonne. in the creuse region. each represents a lady tel: 01 53 73 78 16. Daily: 9.15am-5.45pm, surrounded by a lion, a unicorn and a monkey except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec. €8/€8.50 – on a vermillion background strewn with flowers. rr: €6/€6.50. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st sun the first five tapestries are allegories of the of the month: free. www.musee-moyenage.fr senses with a sweetmeat, an organ, a mirror, medieval garden flowers and the unicorn’s horn held by the lady. The museum’s gardens, of medieval inspiration, the sixth, entitled À mon seul désir (to my prolong the journey in the Unicorn forest. Take only desire) depicts jewels placed in a casket, a walk through the ménagier (a kitchen garden for symbolising what lies beyond our passions. potted plants), observe the medicinal plants, and admire the inner courtyard dotted with flowers, the Heavenly Garden and the Garden of Love. 24 Jardin desplantes mammoths, etc. hundreds of fossilized exhibits, including dinosaurs, the skeletonAdmire ofLouis XV’s rhinoceros and the alphabet of vertebratesandinvertebrates. by girders and metallic , visitors learn in abuildingdating back to 1900characterized galeries depaléontologieetd’anatomie comparée €6 –rr:€4.Under 26s:free. 10am-6pm (aprtosept).1may: closed. Wed tomon:10am-5pm.sat,unandpublichols: the world. over from expeditions from various all through history species, mushrooms,fruit …collected seaweed, about botany. herbariums, different Discover plant museum enables visitorsThis new to learn more galerie debotanique www.jardindesplantes.net Daily: from sunrisetosunset.Free. Alpine garden, and the rose, rock and peonygardens. Explore the greenhouses, the botanical school, the the trail ofdinosaurs orhere tolearnaboutgardening. planted in 1734. You’ll pass school children out on years old. The oldest – aCedar of Lebanon – was from Russia onehundred and twenty or sotrees over peacefully among the statues, lime treesWander t 57 ruecuvier(5th).m°Jussieu. closed for renovation work untilautumn2014. precious stonesfrom theformer royal collection. meteoritesand the semi- minerals, gigantic crystals, 600,000 rocksPlenty to admire with over and galerie deminéralogie etdegéologie 1 may: closed.€7–tr:€5.Under 26s:free. 10am-6pm (aprtosept). Wed tomon:10am-5pm.sat,unandpublichols: to do here? crêpes kiosks. andsweets But what exactly is there harmoniously combines the natural sciences with 23 hectares ofplants and treesset within over and Museum is and 20th centuries. The natural History 1793, exhibition galleries were added in the19th Renamed Muséum nationald’Histoire naturelle in in 1635, became the first public garden inParis. Medicinal Plants Garden), created by Louis Xiii the Jardin Royal des Plantes Médicinales (Royal of Parisians that inthis year … since 1640! itwas walks This has been one of thefavourite naturelle Muséum nationald’histoire el: 0140795601/5479.www.mnhn.fr

greenhouses and the current challenges for preserving them. and the current challengesfor preserving environments and learns about their fragility like of thedifferent an explorer through a discovery are laid out insuch a waythatthevisitor is guided of the Jardin desplantes delight the public. They ménagerie r €9–rr:€7.Undergalerie desenfants: 4s:free. exhibition: €9–rr:€7.Under 4s:free.the With €7 –rr:€5.Under 26s:free.thetemporary With Daily, except t his environment. oforganisms and the effectthe evolution ofman on through educational journey our diverse living world, The surrounding permanentexhibition provides an were thatthey about to move! swear would and you can see a spectacular parade ofstuffed animals – in subdued lighting under a huge glass roof, one grande del’évolution galerie 1 may: closed.€6–rr:€4. (6.30pm sunandpublichols)insummer. Wed tomon:10am-5pminwinter; 10am-6pm f Under 4s:free. in summer, 9amto5pminwinter. €11–rr:€9. Daily: 9am-6pm(6.30pmsunandpublichols) from 1888. finely netted dome ofthe great aviary, whichdates white storks andblack-crowned cranes, under the major architectural feats from the1930s – northe missed are the monkey house and wild-cat house – canpicnic here. Visitors notto be small pavilions. and reptiles, in a landscape with footbridges and turtles and almost one thousand mammals, birds This little zoo ishome to Sichuan takins, Seychelles ully renovated and reorganized,ully renovated the greenhouses es. advised onwww.galeriedesenfants.fr ues and1may: 10am-6pm.

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tiMeless PARiS sainte GeneViÈVe, rue Mouffetard Patron saint of Paris and Place de la contrescarpe born in , geneviève (422-512) was in the small paved Place de la Contrescarpe, a member of the gallo-roman aristocracy. restaurant and cafe terraces encircle the ‘village’ When the Francs invaded gaul and besieged fountain. The Pomme de Pin store, still visible Paris in 451, she ensured supplies got to at no.1, is a reminder that the area was once filled the city. Later, she encouraged clovis to be with cabarets. it is here that the rue Mouffetard, baptised and, so it is said, accomplished many once the only road leading from Lutetia (Paris) miracles. buried at the top of the hill which to Rome, starts to trace its medieval line; today carries her name (on the present site of it is the place to pause for an affordable bite to eat the Pantheon), geneviève was canonized in the lively pubs and cafes. But good food is making in the 8th century. she is invoked especially its mark again, and under many a sloping façade whenever any ill threatens the city and she you’ll find window displays of traditional breads is always the object of the greatest devotion, and cakes, stalls of charcuterie, and mounds of fruit particularly at the church of saint-Étienne- and vegetables, leading to the small and colourful du-mont, situated behind the Panthéon. market that stretches from the bottom of the street to the Saint-Médard church bell tower.

Paradis latin + ancienne abbaye royale du Val-de-Grâce Situated a short walk away from notre-Dame and the Panthéon, the Paradis Latin is the oldest Anne of Austria, the young queen abandoned by her of Paris’s cabarets. founded by napoleon Bonaparte, husband Louis Xiii, vowed to ‘build a magnificent the cabaret fell into ruin but was eventually rebuilt temple to God if he sent her a son’. Her wish was by Gustave Eiffel. it was a gathering place for artists, granted with the birth of the future Louis XiV, in intellectuals and students … but it wasn’t until 1638, after over twenty years of marriage. She had the famous singer Yvette Guilbert achieved glory to wait another seventeen years to see the beginning on its stage that the venue became a truly successful of the building work, which was completed after and popular one. her death, in 1669. Magnificently preserved thanks 28 rue du cardinal-Lemoine (5th). to the military hospital established here since 1796, m° cardinal Lemoine. see p.98. the royal abbey of Val-de-Grâce is a unique gem of 17th century religious architecture. arènes de lutèce abbey: rue saint-Jacques (church court in the 1st and 2nd centuries BC, this amphitheatre entrance) (5th). rer b Port royal. held up to 15,000 people, who came to see plays, musée du service de santé des armées: comedies, gladiator combats and wild beasts 1 place alphonse-Laveran (5th). tel: 01 40 51 51 92. fighting. Together with the forum and the baths, tues, Wed, thurs, sat and sun:12-noon to 6pm. the amphitheatre constituted the centre of the €5 – rr: €2.50. Gallo-Roman city. Rediscovered in 1870, while another Paris – le petit train bleu building rue Monge, the restored amphitheatre has been reopened, offering its stone terracing and stage Another Paris takes you on a visit of the streets of the to the city – impromptu football matches take place capital and offers guided cultural tours of different here after school, as well as games of pétanque areas of Paris aboard a little blue train with amazing and just general lazing around in the sun. views thanks to its glass roof. • 1h15 tours: Royal (Marais), Savant (Quartier Latin), artiste (saint-germain-des-Prés), elégant (Louvre - opéra garnier). €13. 4-11 yrs: €6.50. • 2hr30 tour: Bohème (Montparnasse – Montsouris - Puces de vanves). €19. 4-11 yrs: €9. res. advised: 06 31 99 29 38. www.another-paris.com

59 rue monge (5th). m° cardinal Lemoine. opening times vary according to season. Free.

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trenDY PARiS the medieval Jean-sans-Peur t how to juggle withdifferent styles. fact, everything ispossible aslong asyou know of shopping,ordiscover local heritage …in Châtelet andPlace desVosges to enjoy aspot t r now and 2016.afew steps away from the due to be completely revamped between footbridges oftheles halles gardens – was christened, stands next to themetallic the church ofsaint-eustache, where Molière an impromptu venue for beach-volleyball. the neo-r praise ofnapoleon i. thesquare infront of throw from thefountain atChâtelet, builtin of thesaint-Jacques t while theflamboyant gothicarchitecture out from amongst haussmanian buildings, in splendour. in mansionhousesthatrival eachother Picasso andthenationalarchives, housed numerous museums, includingtheCarnavalet, way to tinyenclosed squares andgardens and preserved historic centre. Busy streets give around ruedes r design withthedelights oftheJewish quarter, district combines awhirlofcreative to modern andcontemporary artcollections . symbol of20th-century architecture andhome of theinnocents isthePompidou Centre, ake agentle stroll between thePlace du enaissance bas-reliefs ofthef enaissance Paris Cityhallisalso osiers, andamagnificently ower isjust astone’s • leshalles (1 st • hôtel deVille (4th) • Montorgueil (2nd) • Marais (4th) ower surges ountain

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Saint-Paul (line 1) • Hôtel de Ville (lines 1, 11) • Rambuteau (line 11) • Arts et Métiers (lines 3, 11) • Châtelet (lines 1, 4, 7, 11, 14) • Étienne Marcel (line 4) • Les Halles (line 4) Don’t Miss

Place des Vosges and as Victor Hugo, from 1832 to 1848. Transformed into a museum, his apartment in the Hôtel de Rohan- formerly known as the Place Guéménée reveals the story of Royale, this square has remained his life, from the antechamber intact – miraculously so – since it of his youth to his death bed, not was commissioned by Henri iV in forgetting a visit to the Chinese 1604. The thirty-six townhouses salon, where he played out his PMP have constituted a perfect Pompidou centre love affair with Juliette Drouet. symmetry from the day they were At the heart of Paris, in the Marais if you look closely, you’ll see their built, with their brick facades, district, the resolutely modern initials in trompe-l’oeil. deep-pitched slate roofs and architectural style of the Centre the ground floor made up of a Pompidou offers visitors one of gallery of arcades for walking. the most beautiful views of the Add a few musketeers and you’d capital. Behind its coloured pipe think you were in a swashbuckling meshing, the building houses six adventure film … or back to floors dedicated to culture and the splendid carrousel that art, making it the largest museum inaugurated the square in 1612 Hôtel de rohan-guéménée. of modern and contemporary to celebrate the wedding of 6 (4th). art in Europe. Boasting over Louis Xiii and Anne of Austria. m° saint-Paul. 70,000 artworks, the museum Since then, each house has tel: 01 42 72 10 16. displays masterpieces of the key boasted a rich history of art, Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, figures of modern art – Picasso, literature and many a famous public hols, easter sun and Kandinsky, Matisse, Chagall, name. Madame de Sévigné was Whit sun. Léger, Miró, Dalí, Dubuffet, born at the Hôtel de Coulanges; Permanent collections free. Klein … as well as important Cardinal Richelieu, Théophile www.maisonsvictorhugo.paris.fr artists from the contemporary Gautier and the tragic actress scene – Buren, Boltanski, Rachel, also lived there, as well opalka, Twombly, Hantaï, 29 Tallon, Widmer, Garouste … did you know? of the 3rd Republic. A sumptuous The Centre Pompidou hosts interior boasts chandeliers, up to 25 temporary exhibitions it is possible to surf on the gilding and wood panelling, while every year. its rich and varied Place Pompidou! There is the external neo-Renaissance programme of cinema, theatre, a free Wi-fi connection in facades are decorated with dance, concerts, conferences and around the Centre and at a profusion of niches and no less and seminars, children’s spaces, more than 260 municipal sites than 378 sculpted works. public reference library, shops (gardens, town halls, etc.). Paris city Hall (4th). and restaurants make it a unique m° Hôtel de ville. multidisciplinary space. Hôtel de Ville? tel: 01 42 76 43 43. Place georges-Pompidou (4th). Free guided tours (French) m° Hôtel de ville, rambuteau. of the salons of the Hôtel de tel: 01 44 78 12 33. ville, by prior appointment only, 11am-9pm, except tues and 1 may. according to official events. the entrance ticket ‘musée et rooms accessible to disabled expositions’ gives access to the people. www.paris.fr musée national d’art moderne, the exhibitions and panoramic Do you know the Maison aux Musée Picasso terrace. Piliers on the Place de Grève? on €11 to €13 according to period. this square, you can ice-skate in rr: €9/10. Under 18s (museum winter, watch top match events and exhibitions), 18-25 yrs eU on big screens, and take part (except exhibition) and 1st sun of in free activities every summer the month (except exhibition): when the banks of the Seine free. www.centrepompidou.fr turn into Paris-Plages. feeling lost? Well actually, that’s understandable. in the around beaubourg 12th century, the administration of Paris was entrusted to the corporation of water merchants, Completed in 1659, and recently who controlled navigation renovated, the mansion which on the Seine. Étienne Marcel, houses the museum has retained the provost of the merchants, the cheeky nickname ‘Salé’ (salty) transferred the seat of the in memory of the ostentatious municipality to the Maison tastes of its first owner who made aux Piliers – the current site a fortune by taxing salt. Here, of the Paris City Hall – in 1357. visitors can admire the world’s Beaubourg, which takes its The square – then Place de biggest collection of works by nickname from the name of Grève – became a spot for popular Picasso including 5,000 works the district, has blended into merrymaking … and public by the artist himself, over the landscape, and is a great punishment. Crowds congregated 200,000 personal documents success with millions of visitors to witness all sorts of executions and the artist’s own private each year, extending its popularity until 1830. Workers also used to collection which features approx. to the esplanade and the Place wait for work here, giving rise in 150 works by artists such as Stravinsky that surround it. the 19th century to the expression Matisse, Cézanne, Le Douanier in the former, which feels rather être en grève (to be on strike). Rousseau, etc. like a mini Woodstock, you can As for the Hôtel de Ville (Paris Hôtel salé. sit around jugglers, listen to City Hall), which replaced the 5 rue de thorigny (3rd). guitar music, and visit the Maison aux Piliers, it burnt down m° saint-Paul. Brancusi workshop. in the second, over eight days, in 1871, during tel: 01 42 71 25 21. you can take in the multicoloured the events of the Commune. closed for renovation work mobile fountain by Jean Tinguely Completed in 1882, the current until summer 2014. and niki de Saint Phalle. building reflects the splendor www.museepicassoparis.fr

30 Disco courtyard and garden only. des monumentsnationaux.Thepublic may visit the the 19th century. Today, ithouses the Centre and ashop for thelatestgoodsin a dairy society before fashionable housing house wowed ParisianThis archetypalmansion 17th-century of thecountryside. earlier – rather than the greenery pied-à-terre intheMarais – completedfour years in 1634, he optedfornevertheless, a sumptuous and superintendent of thefinances of HenriiV. affirmed MaximilienofBéthune,Duke ofSully ‘Ploughing and grazing are teats of f the two Hôtel desully collections free. www.carnavalet.paris.fr public hols,eastersunandWhitun.Permanent t 23 ruedesévigné (3rd). m°saint-Paul. www.monuments-nationaux.fr mon toFri: 9am-5.30pm. nationaux. t information centre for thecentre desmonuments 62 ruesaint-antoine(4th).m°aint-Paul, bastille. a ballroom from theroaring Twenties, etc. silver. And again it istheParis of Mucha, art nouveau, of his campaigns with his personal effects ingilded Paris-Revolution, then in theHôtelLePeletier deSaint-f of Religion and the city inthe 18th century. traces the Paris ofthe Renaissance, the wars story.fascinating built in 1548, The Hôtel Carnavalet, offeradjoining townhouses theperfect setting for this to the bedroom ofMarcel Proust. Two resplendent from the ofParis takesThe museum ofthe history itsvisitors Musée carnavalet –histoire deParis el: 0144595858.Daily: 10am-6pm,except mon, neolithic canoes of the Gallic Parisii tribe el: 0144612150. apoleon leaving on one napoleon leaving Ver argeau, it is

rance‘

drama, dance and music. twenty years.itsprogramme is dividedbetween Sarah Bernhardt, who performed there for over forits twin – was a long timenamed after the actress to opera – almost and music. The Théâtre de laVille primarily thousand seats, is devoted two with over in 1862. The Théâtredesigned by Davioud du Châtelet, italian Renaissance-inspiredand two theatres, to commemorate thevictories of napoleon Ader’s older. airplane, just a century Lavoisier’s orClément laboratory late-18th-century beforein wonder theautomatons and velocipedes, will learn all about great and stand Visitors inventions materials, mechanical engineering, and transport. construction, energy, scientific instruments, domains: communication, onwards is splitintoseven from oftechnology the 16th century the history abbey,and portholes.in this faithfully-renovated submarine the Nautilus, completewith copper walls station has taken on the appearance of Jules Verne’s of the museum, in 1994, the Arts etMétiers metro The metro stationsetsthetone.Sincebicentenary Musée desarts etMétiers see p.97. the Châtelet or ‘Palm’ f things to see,including many lovely however one of the busiestcrossroads in Paris. There are Don’t come here looking for tranquillity – thisis Place duchâtelet www.arts-et-metiers.net of themonthandthurs: (6pmto9.30pm):free. €6.50 –rr:€4.50.Under 18s,18-25yrs eU, 1stsun mon, 1ay and25Dec.thurs: 10am-9.30pm. t 60 ruer el: 01538200.Daily: 10am-6pm,except éaumur (3rd). m°artsetétiers. ountain, erected in1806 PMP i,

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trenDY PARiS sHoPPinG streets Musée d’art et d’histoire anD latest trenDs du Judaïsme PMP From the montorgueil neighbourhood to the The culture and traditions of the Jewish community busy winding narrow streets of the marais, you come to life in this rich collection of art objects, such will find unconventional fashion, up-and- as paintings by Chagall, Modigliani and Soutine that coming galleries, and small designers rubbing are stunning, popular, religious, everyday, humble, shoulders with big names and richly-coloured precious, ancestral and near contemporary. boutiques decked out with curious, original, Hôtel de saint-aignan. 71 rue du temple (3rd). ethnic and poetic objects. in , m° rambuteau. tel: 01 53 01 86 60. market gardeners and delicatessens share this Daily: 11am-6pm, except sat. sun: 10am-6pm. delightful street with gourmet bistros. also closed 1 Jan, 1 may for rosh ha-shanah and in the area, discover the stream of designers Yom Kippour celebrations. €8 – rr: €6. and fashionable labels that have moved into Under 25s: free. www.mahj.org the workshops of the former clothing factories on rue montmartre and rue Étienne-marcel. a few minutes’ walk away, the Forum des Halles Mémorial de la shoah shopping mall has more affordable stores. opened on the site of the tomb of the Unknown in the marais, young designers and artists have Jewish Martyr, the Memorial is a place of opened boutiques and workshops in rues remembrance and documentation about the Shoah des blancs-manteaux, des Francs-bourgeois, and also a ‘museum of vigilance’, designed for vieille-du-temple, charlot … not forgetting, teaching, learning and experiencing. A bastion against of course, rue charlemagne and rue saint-Paul. oblivion, the Wall of names, perpetuates the memory this avant-gardist paradise is also bursting with of the 76,000 Jewish victims deported from france trendy canteens! with the cooperation of the Vichy government. . 17 rue geoffroy-l’asnier (4th). m° saint-Paul. tel: 01 42 77 44 72. Daily, except sat:10am-6pm. thurs: late opening until 10pm. Public hols and certain Jewish holidays: closed. Free. www.memorialdelashoah.org

tour Jean-sans-Peur

Église saint-eustache Built over a century, this church features Gothic and Renaissance influences combined with an 18th-century classical facade, along with traces of a questionable restoration after 1840. nevertheless, Let’s step back in time for a moment. During an Saint-Eustache is truly beautiful and houses interlude in the one Hundred Years War, Jean, treasures like a Rubens painting and a statue of Duke of Burgundy, took advantage of the situation Pigalle. And it has an impressive celebrity line-up, to order the assassination of his cousin Louis including the baptism of Richelieu, Molière and d’orléans and seize power. He ruled from his Parisian Mme de Pompadour, Louis XiV’s first communion, mansion, in which, in 1409, he had the tower built – the mariage of Lulli, the funeral of La fontaine and the only remaining vestige of the building today. as well as Colbert, Marivaux and Rameau, A magnificent spiral staircase with a vault sculpted who found their final resting places here. in oak, hop, and hawthorn leads to the meeting Place du Jour (1st). m° châtelet, Les Halles rooms. Today, a permanent exhibition in the six rooms tel: 01 42 36 31 05. mon to Fri: 9.30am-7pm. of the tower portrays the history of early-15th century sat: 10am-7pm. sun: 9am-7pm. society and architecture; and temporary exhibitions show daily life in the Middle Ages.

32 www.museedelapoupeeparis.com €8 –rr:€4/6.Under 3s:free. closed: sun,monandpublichols. t t impasse berthaud(3rd). m°r of littlegirls! world appeared day on thescene. Happy dreaming inthe figure ofa model blonde-haired dollwith the svelte in celluloid were … untila certain all the fashion the porcelain doll. in the 20th century, baby dolls in 1878 after the Exposition Universelle, came ladies in theelegant outfits of a marchioness. first, came dolls dressed like perfect little Parisian Musée delaPoupée m° Hôteldev square delatoursaint-Jacques(1st). and visitors. in which it stands is muchappreciated by Parisians 1891, where airquality is measured. The little garden into ameteorological converted station in and was with gravity. escapeddemolition in 1797 Thetower in the 17th century,Ages. Pascal experimented here to Santiago de Compostela in Spain in theMiddle la-Boucherie, a meeting point for pilgrims journeying remaining ofthe church vestige of Saint-Jacques-de- is the only This curious Gothic belfry What a history! t €8 –rr:€4.50.www.mep-fr.org t 5-7 ruedeFourcy (4th).m°saint-Paul. exhibitions.and temporary spaces presenting theMEP’s permanentcollection photographers and film-makers, aswell as exhibition housing films by 12,000 works, avideo-library includes a thematic bookshop boasting over photography,Dedicated to contemporary this ‘maison’ de laphotographie Maison européenne www.tourjeansanspeur.com nov tomar: Wed, sat,un:1.30-6pm.€5–rr:€3. t 20 rueÉtienne-marcel (2nd).m°Étiennearcel. el: 0142727311. el: 0144787500.Wed tosun:11am-7.45pm. el: 0140262028.aprtonov: Wed tosun. ues tosat: 1pm-6pm. our saint-Jacques ille. ambuteau.

the architects Patrick Berger andJacques Anziutti. ‘projectrenovation Canopy’ ofthe entire placeby thecompleted to discover while waiting to enjoy nelson Mandela,fountains, and children’s play areas on the garden side, there aretheJardin lawns, hothouse, numerous cinemaauditoriums … centre pool, atropical with 140 shops, a swimming replacedwas by galleries including a shopping with food. Transferred toRungis, market the covered of Émile Zola, supplied the capital in thenovels and its colourful population,so well depicted f f €9 –rr:€7.www.museedelamagie.com t 11 ruesaint-Paul (4th).m°saint-Paul. ishere! distorting mirrors:magic wands, everything automatons, unusual boxes ofsurprises and secrets, conjurers onwards. from the 18thcentury ofmagic, illusionists and and recounts the history oftricks,those with a senseofcuriosity and lovers Sade. Today, itisa perfectly commendable place for for the Marquisbeen as a placeofdebauchery de cellarssaidto have This labyrinthofvaulted was Musée de la curiosité et de la Magie www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr Permanent collections:free. easter sunandWhitun. Daily: 10am-6pm,except mon,publichols, t 8 rueelzévir (3rd). m°saint-Paul. of the sculptures, furniture, etc.) witha preference for those wealth to buyingworks andobjects of art(paintings, partoftheir greatdepartment stores, devoted The couple Cognacq-Jay, founders of theSamaritaine Musée cognacq-Jay m° châtelet,LesHalles. 1-7 ruePierre-Lescot (1st). el: 0142721326.Wed, sat,un:2-7pm. el: 0140270721. rom the 12th century until1969, the ‘belly of Paris’rom the 12th century orum desHalles andits garden f rench 18th century. indian mail,

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trenDY PARiS GlaMoroUs PARiS and it’s alive andwell inthispartofParis. that’s whatthebelle époquewas allabout, the stained-glass artnouveau cupolas! everything seemsmuchmore refined under of chicwithasprinklingstardust. boulevard haussmann, thisisthecentre department stores, whichilluminate the shows with acheekyedge.like thebig music halls,cafe-theatres, andnumerous boulevards, thesebroad avenues withbuzzing and, ofcourse, there are thegrands ruined bydancinggirlsfrom theopera house. and ifthetruthbetold, manyamanhasbeen goings-on, where scooters now fly by. these elegant arcades were hometo risqué and muchmore. rumourhasitthoughthat displays ofgoatskins,antiqueengravings, exhibition rooms hungwithsilks orartful boxes (ofthemusical andchocolate variety), this district are entertainment enough!admire theatre thatputs onashow –thestores in it isnotjust the nearbyComédie-f of thePalais-r diamonds ofPlace Vendôme, andthegardens designers, prestigious hotels, bellboys, the opera house,therue r marble andcrystal. admire thedomeof witness Paris inallits splendour ofgold, oyal. • • opéra (9th) • Madeleine (8th) • Palais-r grands Boulevards (9th) oyale andruedelaPaix, oyal (1st) rançaise BD MALESHERBES RUE RICHER BD HAUSSMANNGRANDS MAGASINS BD DE MAGENTA R. DES 11 MATHURINS RUE LA FAYETTE Château Auber Chaussée Richelieu- 7 d’Eau d’Antin R. DROUOT Drouot BD MONTMARTRE R. DU FBG R. Grands R. D’HAUTEVILLE DU

POISSONNIÈRE 10 Boulevards 2 CHÂTEAU D’EAU PLACE DE BD DES ITALIENS 9 RUE DU FBG ST-DENIS2 OLYMPIA BD DE BONNE PORTE RUE SCRIBEL’OPÉRA Bonne BD DE STRASBOURG R. DU QUATRE SEPTEMBRE NOUVELLE ST-DENIS Nouvelle BD PORTE i S PAR 8 BD DE Opéra ST-DENIS AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA ST-MARTIN RUEMONTMARTRE Madeleine LA MADELEINE RUE DE Quatre-Septembre BOULEVARD LA PAIX Bourse Strasbourg- ST-MARTIN RUE ST-HONORÉ 4 R. DE CLÉRY 3 R. D’ABOUKIR St-Denis RUE DES ST-DENIS PETITS CHAMPSRUE DE RICHELIEU R. RÉAUMUR RUE ROYALE Sentier RUE Concorde 5 Pyramides R. RÉAUMUR BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE PLACE DE RUE ST-HONORÉ JARDINS Réaumur- R. DE TURBIGOTemple Tuileries RUE Étienne DE FRANCE OBÉLISQUE DU PALAIS R. ÉTIENNE MARCELMarcel Sébastopol ROYAL LA CONCORDE MONTORGUEIL i 6 1 TURBIGO Arts et Métiers DE R. JARDIN DES MUSÉE Passages and galeries TUILERIES DES ARTS 1 Passage Bourg-l’Abbé U s Gla M oro 12 Les Halles DÉCORATIFS R. DU LOUVRE 2 QUAI DES TUILERIES LOUVRE DES ANTIQUAIRES 3 Passage du Caire JARDIN DU Palais Royal RUE ST-HONORÉ Rambuteau 4 Pas. Choiseul/Ste-Anne CARROUSEL QUAI A.SEINE FRANCE Musée du Louvre 5 Galeries Colbert/Vivienne Musée RUE DES Louvre- HALLES 6 Passage du Grand-Cerf

BD ST-GERMAINd’Orsay BD DE SÉBASTOPOL RUE DE L’UNIVERSITÉ Rivoli 7 RUE DE TURENNE QUAI QUAI DU VOLTAIRE 8 Galerie de la Madeleine LOUVRE 9 ST-GERMAIN- Q. DEChâtelet LA RUE DE RIVOLI L’AUXERROIS MÉGISSERIE 10 Passage des Princes 250 m 11 Passage Verdeau 12 Galerie Véro-Dodat Opéra (lines 3, 7, 8) • Madeleine (lines 8, 12, 14) • Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre (lines 1, 7) • Grands Boulevards (lines 8, 9) • Pyramides (lines 7, 14) • Tuileries (line 1) Don’t Miss

Palais Garnier – styles intertwine above a flight Place de la Madeleine opéra national of steps that are a popular place The square surrounding the de Paris + for people to meet up. church also bears its name. The opera House was Thoughts turn quickly to the inaugurated under the Third little sponge cakes known as Republic, following fifteen ‘madeleines’, which Marcel Proust years of setbacks, including made famous many years the nightmarish discovery by after having lived at no.9. The the architect Charles Garnier, square seems to have been given of an underground expanse of Place de l’opéra (9th). over to gourmet pleasures since water. This rather deep lake, the m° opéra. 1854 when a certain ferdinand stage for executions during the Hédiard opened a delicatessen tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (€0.34/min). Commune, was the inspiration for Daily: 10am-5pm, except for store here, joined in 1886 by that writer Gaston Leroux’s Phantom matinees and exceptional events. of Auguste fauchon and followed of the Opera. But let’s start with €10 – rr: €6. by chocolate, truffle and caviar the main auditorium, with its Under 10s: free. houses. ceiling painted by Chagall, its www.operadeparis.fr eight-ton crystal chandelier, and purple velvet seats set around an italian-style stage, where operas did you know? and ballets are performed. fish, fed by the scene shifters, The vestibules and main staircase glide through the underground going up to the auditorium are waters of the opera House made of marble and filled with and bees, from two hives on sculptures of harps and lyres the roof, collect their nectar leading the dance. outside, in the nearby . and neo-Renaissance ? 35 coVereD arcaDes at the beginning of the 19th indulge yourself! these ‘human century, Haussmann redesigned aquariums’, as the French writer Paris. built for the crowds aragon described them, still offer thronging the cafe terraces and an original shopping experience theatres along the boulevards, complete with wonderful wood covered shopping arcades panelling: discover the exciting were a huge success with their creations of Passage vivienne boutiques of chinese ornaments, or Passage du grand-cerf, curiosities and gifts, along with encounter bargains and the ghost tea, chocolate and coffee houses. of céline at the , they were the meeting places for marble, art and knowledge await the elegantly dressed, a haven you in the galeries véro-Dodat from wet weather. then came and colbert, while the prints, the department stores. With sepia photos and antique toys in the magic of electricity and passages verdeau and Jouffroy pavements the passageways contrast with the kitsch bazaar in became less fashionable, the passage des Panoramas … and some were demolished.

Église de la Madeleine Place de la madeleine (8th). The construction of the Madeleine m° madeleine. Before being given over to the church was fraught with drama. tel: 01 44 51 69 00. cult of fashion and local fashion Scarcely had work begun in 1764, Daily: 9.30am-7pm. designers, this almost perfect than it was stopped. Begun again Place Vendôme circle was an important place in 1777, only to be interrupted for royal adoration. in order to by the french Revolution, before curry favour with the king, the being restarted under napoleon, Marquis de la feuillade designed who altered the plans to make the the square to house a triumphant building a pantheon to the glory statue of the monarch. Louis was of his armies. The building was delighted but the courtier died designated a place of worship in financial ruin. again and the church was completed in 1842. With no bell tower or cross on the outside, it’s more like a Greek temple, with two monumental doors and Louis XiV had desired a grandiose a forest of Corinthian columns. setting to embody absolute from the top of the steps is a view power at the heart of Paris. And worthy of olympia: firstly the rue napoleon was quick to replace the Royale, with its luxury goods and king’s statue, dismantled in 1792, did you know? prestigious addresses, then the with a bronze column made from Behind Place des Victoires, obelisk at Concorde and beyond, 1,200 enemy canons. However, the military successes of looking in the same direction, since the Second Empire, the Louis Xiii were celebrated in yet another temple, the Palais square, an octagonal gem of the basilica of notre-Dame- Bourbon. classic urban design, has changed des-Victoires on the pretty its affinities. Politics have given Place des Petits-Pères. way to luxury, and the great names in jewellery have made ? Place Vendôme and the adjoining rue de la Paix a continuous stream of diamonds, rubies and emeralds.

36 Disco www.boutique-comedie-francaise.fr t 2 ruerichelieu(1st). boutique delacomédie-Française. www.comedie-francaise.fr the artists and performers during book signings. place of dialogue and exchangealso a veritable with a selection of objectsfilled with history. Theshop is auditorium. Don’t forget to stopby the shopselling to thepadded doors of the redescort you andgold 18th century. Candelabras and busts ofgreat writers performed thef and that of the Hôtel deBourgogne –in 1680, has originating from troupes theunion of two –Molière’s it ishere thatthetheatre’s permanent troupe, f Here are wordsthat inspire two respect: Comédie- comédie-f Place duPalais-r almost reignitedhere therevolution in 1986. lime trees. Although the striped Buren columns restaurants and a garden planted with fourof rows chicboutiques, gourmet institutions, some very ofCulture andseveral houses the Ministry now unrest until 1793. The peaceful Palais-Royal operate there, itbecamea bastion for revolutionary palace. And asthe police were not authorised to Prostitution, gambling and scandal took hold of the supported by arcades were built tohouse the stores. around the gardens to commerce: sixty buildings the indebted Philippe Égalité opened up thearea Philippe d’orléans and his son extended it.in 1780, itto his brother.here; Louis XiV inherited it and gave Richelieu started the saga bybuilding his residence Palais-r musée duLouvre. r 1 placecolette(1st).m°Palais r www.monuments-nationaux.fr musée duLouvre. t el: 0144581430. rançaise. Locatedonthe corner of Palais-Royal, oyal rench repertory sincetheend of the rench repertory rançaise oyal (1st).m°Palais r el: 0147039216. es: 0825101680 Ver oyal - (€0.15/min) oyal - .

www.cultival.fr andwww.legrandrex.com international: +33(0)1730360 €9.50 – rr t 28 bdbonne-nouvelle (10th).m°bonnenouvelle. fromor mild flavours Vanuatu … tastingessential. creamy chocolatefrom Costa Rica, fruity from Peru making and secrets of this delicious product. Smooth The museum explores the 4,000 years of thehistory, le muséegourmandduchocolat choco-story t Daily duringschhols.€11.Under 18s:€9. and r v 1 bdPoissonnière (2nd).m°bonnenouvelle. les Étoiles dur www.grevin.com €23.50 –rr:€20.50.6-14yrs: €16.50– rr: €13.50. annual closure: 29septto3oct2014inc. Last admission1hrbefore closingtime. hols), 9am-7pm(autumnmid-termandchristmas). sch hols:9.30am-7pm(Feb, springandsummer sat, un,andpublichols:10am-7pm. t 10 bdmontmartre (9th).m°grands boulevards. Grévin and Louis XiV all under the same roof! of journalists.Michael Jackson, Einstein, Mozart, Grévinwhich is made up ofapanel the Académie (four to sixpersonalities is elected by a year) and politics. historical figures and stars ofsport, the arts,science producing and displaying statues of great wax Since 1882, the waxworksmuseum has been room and projection room, etc. archive images, special effects room, sound effects from the shooting tothe screening of a film: du Rex thebehind-the scenes of cinema, reveals LesÉtoiles audioguided and interactive show The 50-minutes decor and art deco facade. a star-studded ceiling, its Mediterranean baroque cinemas in Europe with its 2,800seats under the Grand Rex, alisted building, is oneof the largest f el: 0142296860.Daily: 10am-6pm. el: 08250544 el: 0147708505.montoFri: 10am-6.30pm. ounded in 1932on the Grands Boulevards, isits inFrench, english,italian,german,spanish ussian. Wed tosunandpublichols:10am-7pm. : €8.50.www.museeduchocolat.fr + ver 250 personalities! Each new arrival 250 personalities! arrival over Each new

(€0.15/min) ex –Grand r . ex

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GlaMoroUs PARiS Pinacothèque de Paris Musée en Herbe The Pinacothèque de Paris makes art accessible to for children! Exhibitions are fun and based on games everyone thanks to a varied and eclectic programme and developing sensibility, curiosity, and creativity of exhibitions. The first cross-disciplinary Parisian in children. museum, the Pinacothèque houses a permanent 21 rue Hérold (1st). m° Les Halles. collection based on a new vision of the history of tel: 01 40 67 97 66. mon to sun: 10am-7pm. art. Rejecting traditional classifications by artist or thurs: open until 9pm. From 5 yrs: €10 – rr: €9 – movement, it offers visitors an ‘imaginary museum’, adults: €6 – rr: €5. www.musee-en-herbe.com a veritable cabinet of curiosities that is enriched and brought to life by temporary exhibitions. 28 place de la madeleine/8 rue vignon (8th). Paris story ! m° madeleine. tel: 01 42 68 02 01. 2,000 of Parisian history for you to enjoy thanks Daily: 10.30am-6.30pm. Wed and Fri: late opening to an hour-long film on a panoramic screen, until 9pm. €10 – rr: €8. Under 12s: free. and an interactive model that enables you to locate www.pinacotheque.com 155 Parisian landmarks, as well as the former walls Musée Maxim’s of the capital. Also fun quizzes on touch screens to test your knowledge of the city, alone or with Maxim’s was chic and decadent in 1900. During friends or family. the belle époque, courtesans lounged in the rooms 11 bis rue scribe (9th). m° opéra. above the restaurant, which have been recreated for tel: 01 42 66 62 06. Daily, every hour (translation this museum with objects from Pierre Cardin’s art in 14 languages): 10am-6pm. €11. 6-18s: €7. nouveau collection. Discover suggestive paintings, www.paris-story.com Tiffany lamps, a table set for an intimate supper and a bed carved by Majorelle, evoking the rustle Bibliothèque nationale de france – of petticoats of the famous beauty otéro. site richelieu 3 rue royale (8th). m° concorde. The library has retained the departments of tel: 01 42 65 30 47. guided visits Wed to sun: Manuscripts, Maps and Plans, Music, Prints and 2pm-5.30pm. Public hols: closed. €15. Photography, Theatrical Arts, and Money, Medals www.maxims-musee-artnouveau.com and Antiques. Reassuringly, this venerable institution, the fragonard perfume museums founded in the distant era of Charles V, and established on the Richelieu site since 1721, has also preserved the throne of Dagobert, the fan of Diane de Poitiers, etc. 5 rue vivienne (2nd). m° bourse. tel: 01 53 79 49 49. guided visits. www.bnf.fr

Bourse de Paris – in 1987, after over 150 years of the clamour and in a wonderful town house, the Musée shouting of stockbrokers, silence finally reigned du parfum, offers a fascinating journey tracing under the cupola of the Palais Brongniart. 3,000 years of the history and technique of perfume The was computerized and today making. The Théâtre-musée des Capucines houses the neoclassical temple encircled with columns the finest objects of an important private collection opens its marble hall and nave, decorated with of perfume. finally, at the end of a visit, it is wood panelling and frescoes, to curious visitors. impossible to resist products offered at factory prices. Around the famous trading floor, glass cubicles musée du parfum. 9 rue scribe (9th). m° opéra. and a blackboard displaying stocks and shares tel: 01 47 42 04 56. mon to sat: 9am-6pm. recreate the atmosphere of the trading floor. sun and public hols: 9am-5pm. Free guided tour. rue vivienne (2nd). m° bourse. théâtre-musée des capucines. not open to visit. 39 bd des capucines (2nd). m° opéra. tel: 01 42 60 37 14. mon to sat: 9am-6pm. Free guided tour. www.fragonard.com 38

VillaGe PARiS or afiesta, orjust goto themovies. up, stay casual, dance thejava, enjoy thenouba and dairyshops.intheevening, you can dress galleries to checkout amidthecharcuteries victim’, there are designerboutiquesand and given thatthevillageisabitof‘fashion simple, hotdishesorcrunchy salads. Victor-Massé. lunchisatabistro offering and why notguitars inruededouaiand in rued’orsel andthesaint-Pierre market, rue Caulaincourt …and alsowithfabrics treats inruelepic,desMartyrs, filling one’s shoppingbasket fullofdelicious crusty buttered baguette. onecan browse idly, the counter ofacafe withacafé crème and surrounded bybelltowers, theday beginsat Place gustave- saint-georges theatre district andthelittle a hiddengem,before wandering through the venture asfar asthepopularBatignolles area, and goingfrom one‘village’to anotheryou can pleasures ofthiswonderful Parisian ‘village’. a leisurely stroll willenable you to enjoy the the second most-visited site inParis. (little hill),crowned bythesacré-Cœur – entertainers, climbthepicturesque ‘Butte’ f ollowing inthefootsteps ofahorde ofstreet t oudouze. • Batignolles (17th) • t • saint-georges (9th) • Pigalle (9th) • Montmartre (18th) rinité (9th)

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R.J. DE MAISTRE AV. DE CLICHY CIMETIÈRE DE Château MONTMARTRE S R BARBÈS . R LE Rouge E R. PIC I LEMERCIER La Fourche N RUE GARREAUMOULIN DE N O S S LA GALETTE I R. MYRHA AV. DE CLICHY C DE CAULAINCOURT MAISTRER. J. A RUE O V P R. MULLER A L L S RUE R. P. ALBERT RUE GANNERONO E T R. DES Funiculaire D T ABBESSES I R . UE D R D R

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RACHEL PL. R Place RUE LEPIC Abbesses ST-PIERRE G e de Clichy BD R. DE DOUAI ÉLYSÉE Blanche DE CLICHY MONTMARTRE UART MUSÉE DE LA FRANC-MAÇONNERIE CHO Barbès LARIBOISIÈRE PLACE PLACE CHE R. DE RO DE CLICHY LA CIGALE Rochechouart BD DE MAGENTA H A. MAX CALAIS R. FONTAINE R. R. HOUDON BD DE R. DE R. DU DELTA BD DES BATIGNOLLES RUE DE CLICHYR. BALLU Pigalle i Anvers V illa R. BLANCHE DUPERRÉ

RUE DE DUNKERQUE RUE D'AMSTERDAM RUE R. CHAPTAL R. VICTOR MASSÉ RUE DE ROME AVENUE TRUDAINE TURIN RUE Liège CONDORCET R. DE R. DE R. NOTRE-DAME DE LORETTE POISSONNIÈRE R. BLANCHE DE LA TOUR D'AUVERGNERUE LIÈGE R. DE ROCHECHOUART MAUBEUGE

RUER. DE ST-PETERSBOURGDE LIÈGE St-Georges RUE DE CLICHY HEFOUCAULD

Europe RUE DE LONDRES R. JEAN-BAPTISTE PIGALLE R. DE BELFORT

RUE DU FG RUE R. DE RUE DE ROME Poissonnière D'ATHÈNES LA ROC RUE RODIER SAINTE-TRINITÉ RUE DES MARTYRS R. ST-LAZARE RUE MILTON Trinité Cadet N.-D. de Lorette RUE LA FAYETTE 250 m Abbesses (line 12) • Pigalle (lines 2, 12) • Barbès - Rochechouart (lines 2, 4) • Anvers (line 2) • Place de Clichy (lines 2, 13) • Trinité (line 12) • Saint-GeorgesN.-D. (linede Lorette 12) • Blanche (line 2) Don’t Miss

Butte Montmartre remaining windmills, before basilica devoted to the Sacred continuing on up … Keep going! At Heart on the butte Montmartre. the top is Sacré-Cœur, surrounded The site was chosen as much by a labyrinth of extraordinary little for its altitude (127 metres) as for streets, and a vineyard, where the its symbolism; it was sanctified grape harvest is celebrated each long before with the martyrdom year. There is also the flattering of Saint Denis and sullied by the bust of Dalida in the square of the violent acts of the Commune, same name, breathtaking views in 1870. Pitfalls, controversies, Venice has its gondolas, over the rooftops of Paris, amazing underground quarries, and Montmartre its steps – physically crowds and hundreds of tranquil 83 buried pillars caused the demanding but Romanesque in spots. from the square de la work to extend over forty years. the extreme. Countless novels, Turlure or the rue de la Chevalier- All these efforts were rewarded! legends and ‘fabulous destinies’ de-la-Barre, the Sacré-Cœur is just from below, the Romano- are set in the Butte, such as the as wonderful from the side, Byzantine contours take on Bateau-Lavoir in Place Émile- the back or the front! the appearance of a whipped Goudeau, where Picasso painted cream palace set on a hill of Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, and Basilique gardens and terraces: green the cafe made famous by Amélie du sacré-cœur and white outlined against Poulain in rue Lepic. The grocery swathes of azure. The view from the film is higher up on rue from the top of the steps, des Trois-frères. And there’s and especially from the top even more climbing to do – but of the dome, is simply stunning. Montmartre’s well worth it! Walk up rue Tholozé, for example, for Parvis du sacré-cœur (18th). a film or a drink in the winter m° anvers. garden of a tiny cinema patronized tel: 01 53 41 89 00. by Buñuel and Cocteau. Pause at in 1873, the national Assembly basilica: 6am-10.30pm. the top of the street under the last voted for the construction of a www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com 41 Place du tertre drink before rejoining their ranks. La Goulue and her fellow dancers. The waitresses thought they were The first revues were staged and, Welcome to picture-postcard simply asking for something to in 1907, a certain Mistinguett Montmartre, with its restaurant drink … Standing serenely at began her music-hall career. terraces and artists’ easels and the centre of all this activity, the After the war, a new generation portrait painters, who share adjoining church of Saint-Pierre of artists arrived, including 300 allotted spaces – 1 m2 for de Montmartre conceals the Roman Edith Piaf, Montant, Trenet and two artists working alternately. vestiges of the Abbaye des Dames. Aznavour ... Every evening, glitz, But the historic village square feathers and sequins continue to merits a little tour. The commune ® + weave their magic at the Moulin of Montmartre established its Rouge. town hall at no.3, in 1790; no.19 is Montmartre hill once bristled with 82 bd de clichy (18th). the headquarters of the Commune windmills. They closed one after m° blanche. see p.98. libre du Vieux Montmartre, which the other, while the Moulin de la organizes fun events and was Galette became a popular dance founded in 1920. Another hall. in 1889, another opened with institution is the cafe Chez la mère just the exterior decor of Catherine where the word ‘bistro’ a windmill. Soon the french was said to have originated, in Cancan – black stockings, garters 1814. ‘Hurry’ cried the occupying and petticoats – created an air Russian soldiers, eager to down a of euphoria and stardom for DiscoVer Pigalle espace Dalí + from Place d’Anvers to Place de Clichy, night Close to the little Place du Calvaire, this strange revellers, neon lights and illuminated signs ensure underground sanctuary brings together 300 works by that, almost for as long as Paris has existed, this the major Catalan artist. Engravings, sculptures and area never sleeps. in the Paris of yesteryear, wine, surrealist furniture, including the famous Montres taxed at the entry to the city, was more expensive. Molles, Alice in Wonderland, the Mae West lip sofa, So, Montmartre was the lively out-of-town place The Space Elephant and an array of fantastic creatures, to go with its mix of lower classes, artists, young recreating the phantasmagorias of Salvador Dalí. women and free thinkers. Later, the village was on certain dates, workshops initiate children into absorbed into the capital but the rowdiness the playful creativity of the great surrealist. continued. Piano-bars, night clubs, private clubs, 11 rue Poulbot (18th). m° abbesses, anvers. concert halls, cafe-theatres, music halls, dinner tel: 01 42 64 40 10. shows, pubs, cabarets lasted for three seasons Daily: 10am-6pm. July and aug: 10am-8pm. or over one hundred years. in the 1960s, Serge €11 – rr: €7/€6. Under 8s: free. Gainsbourg sang ‘les petits gars de Liverpool’ causing www.daliparis.com a sensation at the Bus Palladium. others followed. When the Paris of Jacques Dutronc ‘awakes’ at 5am, cimetière de Montmartre Place Blanche – at the end of turbulent rue fontaine – Lovers of Montmartre come to the cemetery often looks the worse for wear. But after a short rest, to admire the outdoor art, catch a glimpse of the sun, all is well again. watch the squirrels hopping between maple trees or to make the acquaintance of a string of poets, generals, thinkers, inventors and the Lady of the Camellias. Discover Vigny, nijinsky or Guitry in a labyrinth of mossy rows and irregular stone steps. Cross the path of stray tomcats, a bust of Rodin, the bridge of Caulaincourt and finally, Alexandre Dumas, Zola, Degas and Dalida. Then, it’s off again

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to look for Poulbot, Truffaut and feydeau. Up above Jardin sauvage saint-Vincent the statues and carved chapels, and the tombs for a long time, this sloping parcel of land was of Stendhal and Berlioz, a brood of young sparrows overgrown with alders, foxgloves, brambles, chirp high in the chestnut trees. Eleven enchanting ivy and wildlife. one day the city’s landscape hectares. gardeners decided to make it into a garden again. Musée de Montmartre But impressed by the wild natural beauty of and Jardins renoir the site, spades and secateurs were put to one side. The decision was taken to preserve this fragile and poetic site as a place for observing the ecosystem and biodiversity, the trees, the charm of wild flowers, etc. Limited access. www.paris.fr

numerous personalities – including Renoir, Suzanne Valadon, Raoul Dufy or Poulbot – lived here in Montmartre’s oldest house. The heyday of this independent and bohemian area attached to Paris is displayed here: Toulouse-Lautrec, le Chat noir, Musée Gustave Moreau PMP le Lapin agile, le Bal du Moulin Rouge … the glory At a time of world-stage museums, here is days of Montmartre … A visit to the museum includes the exclusive domain of an artist, laid-out by a walk in Jardins Renoir surrounding the museum, himself, in his family home. At the end of his life, overlooking the Montmartre vineyard. it’s a little bit Gustave Moreau assembled precious memorabilia of the countryside in the heart of Paris. in a ‘little sentimental museum’ on the first floor. 12 rue cortot (18th). m° anvers, in 1895, he had two huge glazed workshops Lamarck - caulaincourt and funicular. built on the upper floors, linked by a fine spiral tel: 01 49 25 89 39. staircase of wrought iron. Visitors can admire Daily: 10am-6pm. €9 – rr: €7, under 10s: free. the italian-style, symbolist and fauvist drawings, www.museedemontmartre.fr watercolours, photographs and engravings Promotrain + that occupy the plum-pink walls from floor les petits trains de Montmartre to ceiling. 14 rue de la rochefoucauld (9th). m° trinité. Give the steps a miss with Promotrain. Children will tel: 01 48 74 38 50. be delighted, and parents too. for the price of a metro mon, Wed, thurs: 10am-12.45pm and 2pm-5.15pm. ticket, but without a commentary, the funicular will Fri, sat, sun: 10am-5.15pm. tues: closed. take you from the bottom to the top of Sacré-Cœur €5 – rr: €3. Under 26s and 1st sun of the month: and the Montmartrobus makes the ascent from free. www.musee-moreau.fr Place Pigalle to the 18th arrondissement city hall, in Place Jules-Joffrin. Musée de la Vie romantique 131 rue de clignancourt (18th). m° simplon. A tree-lined path, a rectangular flower garden, tel: 01 42 62 24 00. Departs place blanche a little mansion far from the buzz of the city: (m° blanche) and place du tertre. this is where the painter and sculptor Ary Scheffer Daily: 10am-6pm. Jul and aug: 10am-12am. lived from 1830 to 1858. Delacroix, , €6. Under 12s: €4. Chopin dropped in as neighbours; the whole www.promotrain.fr of the intellectual and artistic world of Paris (Liszt, Rossini, Turgenev, Dickens, etc.) frequented his workshop-salon. Even today, as you go from room to room, Chopin will accompany you with his piano as you discover George Sand, and the paintings of Ary Scheffer and his contemporaries.

44 16 rue chaptal (9th). m° saint-georges. Parc clichy-Batignolles tel: 01 55 31 95 67. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, Martin-luther-King public hols, easter sun and Whit sun. This park which is still being laid out will be the Free permanent collections. i S PAR biggest green area in the north-west of Paris. it will www.vie-romantique.paris.fr need 624 trees, 5,600 shrubs, 200 climbing plants, 51,000 perennial plants and aquatic plants, G e 47,000 bulbs, 8,400 m2 lawned areas, 25,000 m2 of gardens, 2,900 m2 of ornamental ponds, and 2

3,460 m of play areas for children and adolescents V illa to embellish it. The park’s three themes will be sport, water and the seasons. 147 rue cardinet (17th). m° brochant.

Quartier des Batignolles did you know? Considered a quiet neighbourhood, with its market, Around 1820, neoclassical houses were built church, garden and brand new Clichy-Batignolles in and around rue Chaptal. Grecomania was all park. Batignolles was annexed to Paris in 1860. At the the rage, and the architecture was nicknamed time, this ancient hamlet between the city and fields, ‘nouvelle Athènes’ (new ). Painters, close to Montmartre, offered cheap living for artists. writers, poets and actors were attracted to impressionism took form here in a cafe frequented by the area and soon the whole neighbourhood Manet, Degas, Cézanne, Monet and Renoir. This was of Saint-Georges – the epicentre of artistic life – not just a centre for artists, and writers Zola, Verlaine, took on the new name. Max Jacob, Éluard and Simenon also lived here. And as you stroll down the rue des Dames and rue des ?Batignolles, something tells you that these windows, Musée de l’Érotisme tables and welcoming cafe counters are still a refuge Eroticism is an art and it needed a showcase. for tamed bohemians and a slower pace of life. Pigalle was the obvious home for these statuettes, amulets, saucy photos, satirical sketches, little square des Batignolles tantric totems, painted, modelled, sculpted and engraved idols. Two rounded Buddhas form the its , waterfall and a miniature lake, where black entrance to this arousing but never shocking world, swans ruffle their feathers, make this English-style where 2,000 objects displayed over seven exhibition garden appear much larger than it is. Among floors and from all over the world, explore popular, the things to see are a Turkish hazel tree, swings, contemporary and sacred erotic art. a sweets kiosk, a lemon tree, carp, a sequoia, a skate area, a sculpture in black stone from 72 bd de clichy (18th). m° blanche. Volvic and table-tennis tables. tel: 01 42 58 28 73. Daily: 10am-2am. €10 – rr: €6. www.musee-erotisme.com

Windmills of the past While the Moulin Rouge is only there for decoration, of the fifteen windmills that used to dot Montmartre, only two now remain – the Place des abbesses and the Moulin Radet. Their grinding stones ground grain, plaster of Paris and grapes from There are lifts for passengers at the deepest the Montmartre vineyard, of which a few slopes underground station in Paris – it is thirty metres remain. below ground – but hale and hearty walkers are encouraged to climb the fresco-painted steps before emerging exhausted into the little square to catch their breath on one of the benches. in a glance, one takes in the art nouveau metro entrance by Hector Guimard, the merry-go-round, the cast-iron

45 street lights and the Wallace fountain. in the This is also the place to come for shows and concerts adjoining Square Jéhan-Rictus, kids play at the in the auditorium, activity trails for children and, foot of a wall in enamelled lava, where ‘i love you’ of course, for the 600 items in the Max fourny is declared in 311 languages. opposite, the church collection, representing naive art from the 1970s. Saint-Jean l’Évangéliste, nicknamed notre-Dame- 2 rue ronsard (18th). m° abbesses. des-Briques (our-Lady-of-Bricks) since 1904, mixes tel: 01 42 58 72 89. mon to Fri: 11am-6pm, Byzantine and art nouveau influences. on both sat: 11am-7pm, sun: 12pm-6pm. sides of rue des Abbesses, rue Durantin, and rue de closed: 1 Jan, 1 may, 14 July, 15 aug and 25 Dec. la Vieuville, and rue Yvonne-le-Tac … trendy local aug: 12-noon to 6pm, except sat and sun. boutiques rub shoulders with cafe terraces, where it temporary exhibitions: €8 – rr: €6.50. is nice to do nothing more than watch the world go by. www.hallesaintpierre.org

did you know? At number 21, Place du Tertre, the tourist office of old Montmartre will tell you everything there is to know about the Butte, and offers a programme of guided visits and events. 21 place du tertre (18th). m°abbesses. avenue Junot and Villa léandre tel: 01 42 62 21 21. mon to Fri: 10am-6pm, except 1 may. sat and sun: 10am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. Still on the hillside of the Butte, but beyond www.montmartre-guide.com the sculpture of the Passe-Muraille – in the square where its creator Marcel Aymé once lived – is the Marché Barbès start of avenue Junot with its cubic art deco unfussy ? architecture, the beauty of pure forms, and harmony on Saturday mornings under the overhead metro, of volumes, as at no.15, the house built in 1926 the boulevard de la Chapelle is home to a colorful for the dada poet Tristan Tzara. further on, there market, where Africans in boubous, dazed night-owls is a new change of scene at Villa Léandre, where and Arabs in burnous rub shoulders with mothers and you can wander around in a fairytale setting their young children looking for a watch, a headscarf between two rows of red and white brick or fruit and vegetables. Anglo-norman pavilions with painted shutters, Wed: 8am-1pm. sat: 7am-3pm. arbors and chocolate-box London-style gardens.

Halle saint-Pierre – art Brut – art singulier – art contemporain Populaire

Musée de la franc-Maçonnerie Hôtel du Grand orient de france Although it has been established in france for almost three centuries, freemasonry continues to raise many Below the Sacré-Cœur, the Saint-Pierre fabric market questions. The aim of this museum is to answer these is gaily-coloured and its neighbouring covered questions by allowing visitors to discover its origins, multicoloured market offers popular, naive and rituals and the contribution of its lodges to the unusual art. Built in 1868 by a disciple of Baltard, history of france. this ancient covered market houses a cheerful 16 rue cadet (9th). m° cadet, grands boulevards. cultural centre. Stop by for a snack or a coffee, tel: 01 45 23 43 97. tues to Fri: 10am-12.30pm and amidst the canvasses and works exhibited by the 2pm-6pm. sat: 10am-1pm and 2pm-7pm. gallery or to flick through the colourful art books closed: sun, mon and public hols. €6 – rr: €4. in the bookshop, under the circle of the mezzanine. www.museefm.org

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artists’ PARiS georges-Brassens andtheJardin atlantique. gardens, theparks ofMontsouris, then gofor greenery intheluxembourg and iftheurbanscene sets your headspinning, Parties dumonde,onavenue del’observatoire. saint-andré-des-arts, thef wrought-iron balconies inruedeBuciand the Carrefour delaCroix-r boutiques. there istheCentaure byCésarat the threshold ofmuseum-workshops and so muchto see!everywhere, artspillsover to saint-germain. all over theworld, before drawing them r mention, Montparnasse which,duringthe the Beaux-arts, theMuséed’orsay, notto académie f consider whatthemuseshave given it–the whole string ofprizes.notsurprisingwhenyou literary cafes, andpublishinghouseswitha designers, art galleries, antiquegalleries, is sprinkled with chicandshockfashion revue isanartinitself. thiselegant world the pagesofafashion magazineoranart beautiful things,where browsing through w oaring t elcome to theleftBank,Babylon of

wenties, was a Mecca for artists from rançaise, thethéâtre del’odéon,

• Montparnasse (14th) • luxembourg (6th) • saint-germain-des-Prés (6th) • Muséed’orsay (7th) ouge, 17th-century ontaine desquatre

i S PAR rtists’ a rtists’

Odéon (lines 4, 10) • Assemblée Nationale (line 12) • Sèvres - Babylone (lines 10, 12) • Montparnasse - Bienvenüe (lines 4, 6, 12, 13) • Saint-Germain-des-Prés (line 4) Don’t Miss

Musée d’orsay + PMP furniture, architecture and saint-Germain- photography. The period was des-Prés There is no draught in this so productive, the collections train station, just art and light! The area is bound by the Seine, so rich in wonderful works (and inaugurated during the Exposition the Luxembourg gardens, the in –isms: expressionism, fauvism, Universelle of 1900, the orsay boulevard Saint-Michel and rue etc.) that it seems impossible train station resembled ‘a fine des Saints-Pères. its name comes to cite one unique masterpiece. arts palace’ to the painter from the church, the first stones Édouard Detaille … which was of which date back to 557. what it was to become 86 years from the 1920s, the frenzied later. Unsuitable for modern literary and art cliques trains, its deserted platforms gravitated towards the cafes finally closed in 1979. Plans of Saint-Germain. During the to demolish it in 1970 were Liberation, existentialism took overturned just in time and off, led by Camus and Sartre, 1 rue de la Légion-d’Honneur (7th). it became a listed building. while basement jazz shook the m° solférino. its immense volumes were foundations with Sidney Bechet tel: 01 40 49 48 14. transformed into a museum on the clarinet and the writer tues to sun: 9.30am-6pm. whose canopy, nave, cupolas, Boris Vian on the trumpet. closed: mon, 1 Jan, 1 may and pillars, iron girders and stucco Saint-Germain remains an oasis of 25 Dec. decors draw unanimous praise. ancient streets full of wonderful thurs: late opening until 9.45pm. The huge clock in the glass roof places for art, books and the €11 – rr: €8.50. of the central alley dominates latest must-have little items. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and a chronological layout over 1st sun of the month: free. three main levels, focussing on Passeport orsay/orangerie: €16. the major artistic movements in www.musee-orsay.fr Western art from 1848 to 1914: painting, sculpture, graphic arts and art objects, as well as 49 cUlt cafes running of the garden and fondation cartier pour the museum, which stages l’art contemporain exhibitions on modern art and Under the auspices of a Cedar of the Renaissance, of course, in Lebanon planted by Chateaubriand memory of the florentine queen. in the 19th century, the glass 19 (6th). arch envisaged by Jean nouvel m° odéon, rer Luxembourg. has, since 1994, revived the tel: 01 40 13 62 00. artistic tradition of the area. The Daily: 10am-7.30pm. Theatrum Botanicum lies behind the café de Flore, the Deux- mon and Fri: late opening until a glass screen, which extends magots and the brasserie Lipp 10pm. the perspective of boulevard make up the golden triangle 24 and 31 Dec: 10am-6pm. Raspail. This wild-looking garden of the boulevard and Place closed: 25 Dec. surrounds the building, whose saint-germain and were once €11 – rr: €7.50. Under 16s: free. entrance is adorned with a wall the ‘headquarters’ of sartre www.museeduluxembourg.fr and beauvoir, Éluard and of plants. inside, a space of steel breton, Fargue and Faulkner, and glass provides the perfect as well as an antechamber did you know? showcase for contemporary for politics and a second The Luxembourg may also be creation. ‘office’ for publishers. What’s admired from the outside: more, all three are listed. the park’s railings showcase exhibitions of large-scale photographs to great effect. Jardin and musée du luxembourg odéon ? 261 bd raspail (14th). m° raspail. Meet up in front of Danton! tel: 01 42 18 56 50. The statue stands firm amongst Daily: 11am-8pm, except mon, the wave of passers-by at the 25 Dec and 1 Jan. Carrefour de l’odéon, some in tues: late opening until 10pm. a hurry, others sauntering along, €10.50 – rr: €7. Under 13s traffic, cafe lights and snaking and under 18s (Wed): free. Children love the Luxembourg queues in front of cinemas keep www.fondation.cartier.com gardens for their wooden horses, this neighbourhood buzzing at all fondation Henri- their model yachts to push along hours. The entrance to the Cour cartier-Bresson with a cane on the ornamental du Commerce Saint-André opens pond, for their refreshment onto the crossroads. This cobbled The lens on the 20th century, kiosks, puppet theatre, ponies, pedestrian street houses the Henri Cartier-Bresson photographed etc. The wrought-iron chairs are remains of the ancient city wall colonial Africa, the Spanish Civil perfect for a delightful nap below of Philippe-Auguste, and amidst War, the Liberation of Paris, etc. the Dames de france which form the profusion of old-style shop His portraits captured Camus, a circle of statues. What would and restaurant signs stands faulkner, Mauriac and a hundred Marie de Medicis think of the the Procope. opened in 1688, other contemporary figures. in a success of the palace and garden it is perhaps the oldest cafe in workshop dating back to 1910, commissioned by her? At the Paris. it was the first to serve the foundation displays the work time, the widow of Henri iV had ice creams to its clients, who of the photographer, as well as sought to recapture a little of included Diderot, Rousseau showing works by other artists. her native florence. The fontaine and Voltaire. The Théâtre de 2 impasse Lebouis (14th). Médicis with all its niches and l’Europe – Théâtre de l’odéon m° gaîté. tel: 01 56 80 27 00. nymphs is all that remains of until 1990 and temple from the tues to sun: 1pm-6.30pm. the italianate grotto that she Enlightenment period – is the sat: 11am-6.45pm. Wed: late had built in 1630. The palace has stunning centre piece of Place de opening until 8.30pm. closed mon become the seat for the Sénat l’odéon. its programme of events and between each exhibiton. (the upper house of the french represents an important part of €7 – rr: €4. parliament). it oversees the European artistic heritage. www.henricartierbresson.org 50 Disco access by liftsorsteps. m° ontparnasse-bienvenüe (15th). ocean-inspired kidsplay areas. island of Hesperides,tenniscourtsand fantastic the Bassin des Miroitements, afountain from the evergreenpines, floor surface, undulating wave-like station. Yes, aroof garden! An amazing feat with an the Jardin– agarden Atlantique ontop of thetrain canclimb up to spaces, the Montparnasse ‘traveller’ To keep to thehigh ground and take in the wideopen Jardin atlantique www.institut-de-france.fr v 23 quaiconti(6th).m°odéon. The institute promotes cultural heritage. ‘immortals’, seated around cupola. the famous the Mazarine library. Buteach has itsmembers, Sciences Morales andPolitiques, aswell as Belles-Lettres, Architecture, Sciences,Beaux-Arts, – thesmaller Académies 1635, rather overshadows f The Académie institut def within a circumference of40 km. of 210 metres ofall Paris and its surroundings an exceptionalhave from 360° view aheight Paris. visiblefrom all over Visitors landmark, familiar planning projects. has Since become then, thea tower indignation, as isoften the case with ambitious city of steel and smoked glass provoked cries of constructed in 1973, its 59floorsWhen it was t isits for groups only. our Montparnasse rançaise, founded by Richelieu in rance Ver +

and travel albums. and travel opening onto thegarden, there are other paintings at.f marvelled beside the is displayed governess, Jenny Le Guillou, the faithful wordsofDelacroix himself.the very The portrait of open the door ofthis ‘decidedly charming’ home, in Musée eugène-Delacroix www.museedeslettres.fr €7 –rr:€5.Under 12s:free. 25 Decand1Jan.thurs: lateopeninguntil9.30pm. t 222 bdsaint-germain(7th).m°r Balzac, Mozart, etc. of napoleon Bonaparte, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the finer moments off antiquarian books are ondisplay. Relive someof documents, as well as musicalscores and in thismuseum,literary, historical and scientific Musée deslettres etManuscrits Under 7s:free. www.tourmontparnasse56.com €14.50; 16-20yrs: €11.50;7-15yrs: €9. 10.30pm andFri, sat,pre-public hols:9.30am-11pm. 11.30pm. From 1octto31mar: suntothurs, 9.30am- t 33 av. dumaine(15th).°ontparnasse-bienvenüe. of ivy and acacias. and then in rooms and outto the winter garden great hall. The exhibition continues in thestudios watercolours. The Centaure mourant stands in the plaster and bronze, and along with canvases Bourdelle numbers 500 sculpted works inmarble, filled Montparnasse. Today, thatof Émile-Antoine the beginning of the20th century,At artists’ studios Musée Bourdelle ticket: €12.www.musee-delacroix.fr the monthand14July: free. Louvre-Delacroix joint closed. €6/7.50.Under 18s,18-25yrs eU, 1stsunof Daily: 9.30am-5pm.t m° saint-germain-des-Prés. t 6 ruedeFürstenberg (6th). el: 0142224848.Daily: 10am-7pm,except mon, el: 0145385256.Daily: 1aprto30sept: 9.30am- Madeleine dansle désert, which Baudelaire rom the lounge tothe workshop ues, 1Jan,may and25Dec: rench history inthe company rench history el: 0144418650. ue dubac. PMP

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artists’ PARiS 18 rue antoine-bourdelle (15th). of a friend. But those who enjoy something really m° montparnasse - bienvenüe. tel: 01 49 54 73 73. original will find it at the grave of Monsieur and Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, public hols, easter sun Madame Charles Pigeon! and Whit sun. Painting studio closed until 2015. www.bourdelle.paris.fr

Parc Montsouris Église saint-sulpice Like the Buttes-Chaumont, this landscaped garden The church has the dimensions and majesty of the Second Empire takes its inspiration from of a cathedral. its construction began in the the parks of London. The grotto, artificial mounds 17th century on the site of a previous building dating and valleys are so convincing that even the crested back to the 13th century and lasted over 135 years, tit and the serin are duped. on the island, they nest due to a lack of funds, giving it treasures from close to turtles from florida, male mallard ducks each period: a choir decorated with statues by and their female companions. Around the lake, Bouchardon, a Vierge à l’Enfant and two fonts in there are rolling lawns, play areas, a ginkgo biloba the shape of shells sculpted by Pigalle, the Chapelle and 1,399 other trees, and even a weather station. des Saints-Anges whose frescoes, filled the last 14th. rer b cité-Universitaire. years of Delacroix’ life. Place saint-sulpice (6th). m° saint-sulpice. tel: 01 42 34 59 60. Daily: 7.30am-7.30pm. did you know? Mémorial du maréchal leclerc The graffiti and little messages covering de Hautecloque et de la libération the walls at no.5 bis rue de Verneuil (7th) are de Paris – Musée Jean Moulin a reminder that the singer-songwriter Serge focus on the action of two emblematic figures Gainsbourg once lived in this private town house, of WWii: one a leader of the free french units, now a mythical place for admirers. the other a leader. A wall of m° rue du bac. images from audiovisual archives plunges the visitor into ‘occupied Paris’, ‘insurgent Paris’, and finally Jardin de l’Hôtel Matignon? ‘liberated Paris’. following the example of the Jardins de l’Élysée, 23 allée de la 2e Db. Jardin atlantique – covering the garden of the residence of the prime minister the gare montparnasse (15th). m° montparnasse - is open to the public. According to tradition, bienvenüe. tel: 01 40 64 39 44. each head of government plants a tree of their choice Daily, except mon, public hols, easter sun and Whit here: amongst those growing in the gardens, sun: 10am-6pm. Permanent collections: free. the public will find a silver maple, an ironwood www.ml-leclerc-moulin.paris.fr tree and a Virginia tulip poplar. cimetière du Montparnasse 36 rue de babylone (7th). m° sèvres - babylone. nov to mar: 1pm-5pm. apr to oct: 1pm-6.30pm. Since 1824, the cemetery in the south of Paris has been a green campo santo of artists and men Parc Georges-Brassens and women of letters: Bartholdi, Baudelaire, César, A brief tram ride will take you from the Cité Duras, ionesco, Maupassant, Sartre and Beauvoir, Universitaire to Georges-Brassens park for further Zadkine. Gainsbourg, the Lilas ticket-puncher, bucolic adventures amongst the beehives, Pinot noir collects metro tickets (in reference to the song grapes, and honeysuckle and jasmine in the he wrote). Brancusi placed a cubist Kiss and niki scented garden; playful adventures too with table de Saint Phalle a cat in mosaic to brighten the grave tennis, merry-go-round, ponies and climbing;

52 intellectual adventures can be found at the book Monnaie de Paris PMP market, each weekend, under the covered Halle La Monnaie de Paris has committed to an ambitious aux Chevaux of the former Vaugirard abattoir. renovation project ‘MétaLmorphoses’ of its Parisian site that will enable the public to enjoy its heritage. i S PAR This project will make the former Mint, now a museum, will have a new cultural programme offering art workshops, as well as displaying never-before-seen treasures from the collection of the Monnaie de Paris. Hôtel de la monnaie. 11 quai conti (6th). a rtists’ m° Pont neuf. tel: 01 40 46 56 66. rue des morillons (15th). m° convention. closed for renovation end 2014. www.monnaiedeparis.fr

observatoire de Paris did you know? ‘Your majesty’s glory depends on it’, scientists La Petite Ceinture is a 36 km-long railway assured Louis XiV when they pleaded for an track around Paris, constructed during the astronomical observatory. Eight years later, in 1672, Second Empire to link Parisian stations. the building was completed according to the plans of Today, it is a favourite walk for Parisians architect , brother of the story writer. who eagerly await the future link between There are guided visits of the Moon, the phases Place Balard and Georges Brassens park. of Venus and some Sunspots by appointment. 61 av. de l’observatoire (14th). Place Denfert-rochereau? m° Denfert-rochereau. tel: 01 40 51 22 21. and catacombes visits the 1st Wed of the month, at 2pm. At the intersection of a constellation of avenues, res. necessary. www.grandpublic.obspm.fr the bronze lion by Bartholdi faces West so as not chapelle notre-Dame- to offend the Prussian enemy, defeated at Belfort in de-la-Médaille-Miraculeuse 1870. Around the perimeter stand the two unpopular tax pavilions that punctuated the wall encircling in 1830, the Virgin ordered Catherine Labouré, a Paris until the 19th century. Denfert is also the novice at the Couvent des filles-de-la-Charité-de- entrance to the ‘Land of the Dead’ or catacombs – Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, to have a medal minted that the underground tunnels used as the ossuary of the would protect its bearers. The first miracles were cemetery of the innocents in 1785. A wall of skulls indicated when cholera ravaged Paris. The medal’s and a rotunda of tibias isn’t for sensitive souls, so you favours spread across the world, Catherine was might prefer to get away to the area in and around rue canonized and pilgrims flocked to the chapel. Daguerre with its attractive small shops and eateries. 140 rue du bac (7th). m° sèvres - babylone. www.chapellenotredamedelamedaille miraculeuse.com

Musée Zadkine The museum houses the home and workshops where ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), the french sculptor of Russian origin and a major figure of the École de Paris, lived and worked from 1928 to 1967. catacombes de Paris. 100 bis rue d’assas (6th). m° notre-Dame-des- 1 av. du colonel-Henri-rol-tanguy (14th). champs. tel: 01 55 42 77 20. Daily: 10am-6pm, except m° Denfert-rochereau. tel: 01 43 22 47 63. mon, and public hols, easter sun and Whit sun. tues to sun: 10am-5pm. cash desks close at 4pm. Permanent collections: free (except during temporary closed mon, easter sun and Whit sun. exhibition periods). www.zadkine.paris.fr €8. rr: €4, €6. www.catacombes.paris.fr

53 MonUMental PARiS beneath thegolden domeoftheinvalides. Bonaparte? t and whowas noneotherthannapoléon a young Corsican, whowas ‘anexcellent sailor’, did you know thatthis institution trained Champ-de-Mars, infront oftheécole Militaire. f the equestrian statues ofthetwo marshals, to beyond Pont alexandre iii.anotherbetween stretching from theesplanadedesinvalides and whatspectacular perspectives! one the Muséer by Matisse. f by dufyandthemonumental LaDansetriptychs is theacclaimed fresco LaFée Électricité and its white colonnade. onshow inthelatter architects designedthePalais det the Palais deChaillot andaquartet of universelle: seventy-one artists decorated example, are thegemsof1937exposition and vast green spaces! Just opposite, for grandiose area withits massive buildings is awesome andonefeels sosmallinthis covering 80kilometres. thespectacle its beamsweeps through theskyinaradius scale to thetower itself. onaclear night, the area around theeiffel t och inPlace dut odin. or LaPorte del’Enfer, see oday, hisimperialremains lie rocadéro andJoffre inthe • t • invalides (7th) • Champ-de-Mars (15th) • t our eiffel (7th) rocadéro (16th) ower isonafitting okyo

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Invalides (lines 8, 13) • École Militaire (line 8) • Trocadéro (lines 6, 9) • Iéna (line 9) • La Tour-Maubourg (line 8) • Bir-Hakeim (line 6) • Varenne (line 13) • Rue du Bac (line 12) Don’t Miss the 50 engineers and 132 workers wings of the vast Palais de and the eiffel tower + directed by Gustave Eiffel, and Chaillot – emblem of the 1930s – more than 250 million visitors are gently sloping terraces and since its construction. The tower gardens, bordered by century-old is a special landmark symbolizing Caucasian wingnut and hazel Paris and france throughout trees, and dotted with gilded the world and it sparkles every bronze statues. Skaters and evening for the first five minutes rollerbladers weave alongside of every hour until 1am. the fountains beneath the gaze champ-de-mars (7th). of Apollo and Hercules, sculpted The vast park laid out below the m° bir-Hakeim. on the pediment of the pavilions. famous tower has nothing warlike tel: 08 92 70 12 39 (€0.337/min). about it! its name, borrowed from From 1 Jan to 14 Jun and from the god of war, relates to its early 2 sept until 31 Dec: 9.30am-11pm. history as an exercise area for the From 15 Jun to 1 sept: young cadets of the military 9am-midnight. school. Later, as the centre point Lifts: €9 – rr: €4.50/€7.50. of the Expositions universelles, stairs: €5 – rr: €3/€4. it was chosen as the site of summit by lift: €15 – the biggest attraction of 1889, rr: €10.50/€13.50. the Eiffel Tower, celebrating did you know? Under 4s: free. its 125th birthday in 2014. www.tour-eiffel.fr The Wall of Peace, erected Stop to gaze up at all of its 324 at the foot of the Eiffel Tower metres! The tower was saved from trocadéro on the Champ de Mars, is demolition after twenty years similar to the Wailing Wall because of its scientific utility. The elevated ‘Troca’ has a in Jerusalem. A few more figures: 10,100 tons, privileged viewpoint of the Eiffel 2,500,000 rivets, 1,665 steps, Tower on the opposite bank of ? two years of relentless work for the Seine. Between the curved 55 musée des Plans-reliefs PMP Sculptures in marble, bronze, did you know? 129 rue de grenelle (7th). and terracotta alternate with The 1913 merry-go-round with m° La tour-maubourg, invalides. drawings by the master, works its original wooden horses is tel: 01 45 51 95 05. by Camille Claudel (his muse), activated by a crank handle. 1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5pm. paintings by his friends Carrières, Located in the parc du Champ 1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6pm. Monet, Van Gogh and others. de Mars, it is a source of much 1st mon of the month, 1 Jan, in the garden, roses and statues joy to children! 1 may, 1 nov and 25 Dec: closed. have replaced the rabbits. m° École militaire. €9.50 – rr: €7.50 (inc. access Hôtel biron Daily: 9am-8pm or 11pm. to the musée de l’armée and 79 rue de varenne (7th). www.manege1913paris.com napoleon’s tomb). m° varenne. Under 26s: free. tel: 01 44 18 61 10. invalides www.museedesplansreliefs. thurs to tues: 10am-5.45pm. ?culture.fr Wed: late opening until 8.45pm. mon, 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec: closed. did you know? www.musee-rodin.fr Under the golden dome, the remains of the emperor lie in five successive coffins set into Musée du in 1671, Louis XiV decided to a block of red quartzite from quai Branly PMP build ‘a royal hostel that would finland! be large and spacious enough to house all officers, crippled, old musée de l’armée ? and retired alike’. The ‘pensioners’ tomb of napoleon i PMP began arriving in 1674. The Hôtel national des invalides. Église Saint-Louis – or ‘Soldiers 129 rue de grenelle (7th). Church’ – and the Église du Dôme m° La tour-maubourg, invalides. (transformed into a military tel: 0 810 11 33 99 (price of a local call). pantheon) were built afterwards. 1 apr to 31 oct: 10am-6pm. in a green setting, at the foot This magnificent ensemble, with 1 nov to 31 mar: 10am-5pm. of the Eiffel Tower and on the its wonderful green lawn, today 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec and banks of the Seine, the Musée houses cannons, the Musée de 1st mon of the month (except from du Quai Branly showcases l’Armée and the Musée des Plans July to sept): closed. €9.50 – the arts and civilizations of Africa, et Reliefs. The Musée de l’Armée rr: €7.50 (inc. access to the Asia, oceania and the Americas. houses the tomb of napoleon i, musée de l’armée and napoleon’s Visitors can discover over the department of arms and tomb). 3,500 objects, international ancient armoury and that of the Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. temporary exhibitions, stunning two world wars and the Charles de www.invalides.org architecture, an unusual plant Gaulle History Museum. As for the wall, an excellent bookshop, modern department (17th-19th Musée national restaurant Les ombres and the centuries), it has reopened rodin PMP café Branly. following restoration work. 37 quai branly (7th). Hôtel national des invalides m° alma - marceau. 129 rue de grenelle (7th). tel: 01 56 61 70 00. m° La tour-maubourg, invalides. tues, Wed, sun: 11am-7pm. tel: 0 810 11 33 99 (price of a local call). thurs, Fri, sat: 11am-9pm. Daily: 7.30am-7pm. €9 – rr: €7. tues: late opening until 9pm Permanent collections and (apr to sept). temporary exhibitions: €11 – took up residence rr: €9. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, musée de l’ordre here in 1908, surrounded by 1st sun of the month: free. PMP de la Libération a park teeming with brambles www.quaibranly.fr closed until June 2015. and rabbits. The museum opened www.ordredelaliberation.fr in 1919, two years after his death.

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13 av. du Président-Wilson (16th). m° iéna. i S PAR

Musée national des arts asiatiques Guimet PMP tel: 01 81 97 35 88. Daily: 12pm-12am. tues, 1 Jan, 1 may Wonderfully renovated with modern design, it is and 25 Dec: closed. €10 – rr : €8. Under 18s : free. the biggest museum in Europe devoted entirely to www.palaisdetokyo.com Asian art. from Buddhas from Afghanistan to Zen monks from Japan, indian fabric, Samourai weapons, treasures from Angkor, and refined art from China, the museum’s collections are outstanding and a wonderful way to get to the heart of Asian culture. Mon UM ental

Musée d’art moderne de la Ville de Paris it shows the pure tones of the fauvists, the deconstructed shapes of the cubists and 6 place d’iéna (16th). m° iéna. Les Disques by fernand Léger. it features all the tel: 01 56 52 53 00. trends in non-figurative art, from the École de Paris, Daily: 10am-6pm, except tues. €7.50 – rr: €5.50. Modigliani, Soutine, and Giacometti’s search for Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. www.guimet.fr the absolute to photos by Brassaï. it also covers the 1950s and the following decades with new Realism, , contemporary Arte Povera, Support/Surface, fluxus, and more. creation it honours great contemporary figures, such as Boltanski, Bourgeois, and Buren, and supports The spacious dimensions brightened with acid tones the most outstanding trends in new design. are a showcase for emerging contemporary art. The City’s museum of modern art illuminates from midday to midnight, experimental, irreverent, the east wing of the Palais de Tokyo! international, and often interactive exhibitions 11 av. du Président-Wilson (16th). m° iéna. and events brighten the line-up. The shop is stocked tel: 01 53 67 40 00. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, with amusing objects in limited series and under public hols, easter sun and Whit sun. the luminous pink and green saucers of the Japanese thurs: late opening until 10pm. restaurant, one can enjoy peas with mint and Permanent collections free. clementines en gratin. www.mam.paris.fr

JUst aroUnD Musée de l’Homme tHe corner Even its name will change! Currently closed for renovation work, the Musée de l’Homme will the museum’s Panthéon bouddhique displays reopen in late 2015 as a brand new wonderful pieces brought back from Japan in 1876 museum of mankind. on the programme: a great by Émile guimet, an industrialist from Lyon, journey through time from man’s appearance – a fervent admirer of the culture of the Far east 150,000 years ago – to the present day, in a totally and founder of the museum that bears his name. new laid out museum. 19 av. d’Iéna (16th). M° Iéna. Palais de chaillot. 17 place du trocadéro (16th). Tel: 01 40 73 88 00. m° trocadéro. www.mnhn.fr Daily: 9.45am-5.45pm. Closed Tues. Free.

57 the american church Palais Galliera – musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris Built in 1931, this was the first American church built outside of the United States. Believers, in the course of temporary exhibitions showcasing students, expatriates … of all nationalities a part of its invaluable and fragile collections – and all faiths are welcome at this Gothic-inspired 100,000 costumes and accessories from the cathedral where mass is said in English. 18th-century to today – the museum offers 65 quai d’orsay (7th). m° alma - marceau. an insight into past and contemporary fashion. tel: 01 40 62 05 00. www.acparis.org 10 av. Pierre-ier-de-serbie (16th). m° iéna. tel: 01 56 52 86 00. tues to sun: 10am-6pm. Musée national de la Marine PMP thurs: late opening until 9pm. mon and public hols: Discover more than 1,000 extraordinary objects closed. www.galliera.paris.fr retracing 300 years of maritime history: models of les égouts de Paris PMP ships and machines, figureheads, paintings, sailors’ souvenirs, weapons, navigation instruments, etc. Underground Paris, what an adventure! 2,400 km of pipes; some 31,600 manhole covers for easy access; 500 sewer workers responsible for the upkeep … and 1 underground visit to find out everything there is to know about the water cycle. opposite 93 quai d’orsay (7th). m° alma - marceau. tel: 01 53 68 27 81. Daily except thurs, Fri and 2 weeks mid-Jan. 1 may to 30 sept: 11am-5pm. Palais de chaillot. 17 place du trocadéro (16th). 1 oct to 30 apr: 11am-4pm. €4.30 – rr: €3.50. m° trocadéro. tel: 01 53 65 69 53 (info and res). Under 6s: free. www.paris.fr mon, Wed, thurs, Fri: 11am-6pm. sat, sun: 11am-7pm. tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec: closed. cité de l’architecture museum: €8.50 – rr: €6. Under 18s and 18-25 yrs eU: et du patrimoine PMP free. museum and exhibition: €10 – rr: €8/€5/€2. audioguide included. Housed in a wing of the Palais de Chaillot, 2 18-25 yrs eU: free. www.musee-marine.fr this cité – open to all – devotes its 23,000 m to the urban environment. The museum’s galleries present architectural moulds, medieval and Musée Maillol – Renaissance wall paintings and an architectural fondation Dina-Vierny panorama from 1850 to the present day. Dina Vierny was the muse and friend of the painter and sculptor . The foundation and the museum reveal the work of the artist and offer a panorama of 20th-century art through his collection and that of Dina: B for Bonnard, D for Duchamp, K for Kandinsky … S for seductive! Fondation Dina-vierny. 61 rue de grenelle (7th). m° rue du bac. tel: 01 42 22 59 58. From tues to thurs and from sat to sun: Palais de chaillot. 1 place du trocadéro (16th). 10.30am-7pm, except 25 Dec and 1 Jan. m° trocadéro. rer c champ de mars - tour eiffel. mon and Fri: late opening until 9.30pm. tel: 01 58 51 52 00. mon, Wed, Fri, sat, sun: €13 – rr: €11/€7. Under 11s: free. 11am-7pm. thurs: 11am-7pm. closed tues, www.museemaillol.com 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec. €8 – rr: €6. Permanent collections and exhibitions: €12 – rr: €8. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun of the month: free. www.citechaillot.fr

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cHic PARiS la f countryside away from Paris. Boileau, the thermalspringsandpleasures ofthe in thepast, people came here to enjoy chirp above thetennis courts. the hamlets are shrouded infoliage, andbirds horse riders trot along thesandypathways, by ther the quietavenues, concerts are regularly given villages –Passy andauteuil.fine housesline this elegant district grew from two small du Mouton Blanc,rued’ lenclos were regular visitors to theauberge Chic, simple, andpeaceful. cubic Cité Mallet-stevens, builtinthe1920s… Blanche, onediscovers thenearby lightand Visiting leCorbusier, square dudocteur- by thePerret brothers, ruef rue d’ comes across thestudioBuilding bysauvage, architectural tours. lookingfor guimard, one t some rather crazy-looking villas. mansion houseswere builthere, along with the openair, jog,orrow onthelake. several people now come to theBoisonsunday to enjoy parade ground for carriages andfineclothes, oday, thedistrict makes for surprising ontaine, Molière, r agar, andthesandstone building adio f rance Philharmonicorchestra, • Passy, laMuette (16th) • Porte Maillot (16th) • BoisdeBoulogne (16th) • auteuil (16th) acine andninonde auteuil. f ranklin. ormerly the i S PAR

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Porte Maillot (line 1) • Porte Dauphine (line 2) • La Muette (line 9) • Passy (line 6) • Porte d’Auteuil (line 10) • Alma - Marceau (line 9) Don’t Miss

Bois de Boulogne Jardin d’acclimatation Park + train: €5.90 – rr: €4.40. Under 3s: free. Since 1860, the Jardin www.jardindacclimatation.fr d’Acclimatation has been a paradise for children with its Enchanted River, little train, Hippodrome d’auteuil fairground rides, farm and and Hippodrome vegetable garden, museum, de longchamp puppet theatre, and workshops A part of the forest that once (cooking, calligraphy, magic, etc.) Do you have a preference for surrounded ancient Paris, the for children aged 3 to 10. steeplechases or flat racing? Bois (Wood), a place of debauchery There is something for parents The former take place on the in the 18th century, became a too with chocolate, perfume, eastern side of the Bois de fashionable promenade in the and dance workshops. Boulogne, at the 33-hectare belle époque period thanks to Auteuil racecourse, with the wide lane linking it to Paris, 18 hectares of track, hedges and the creation of lakes and little steeplechase. for cheering on the rivers, the Pré-Catelan in 1855, jockeys and thoroughbreds in flat along with racecourses in 1857 racing, the 57-hectare Longchamp and 1873. A green 845 hectare racecourse in the western part ‘lung’, whose paths are a favourite of the Bois is the place to go. place for joggers, horses and bois de boulogne (16th). You don’t have to be a betting fan cyclists; the great waterfall m° Les sablons. to enjoy a day out here! Around attracts photographers, while tel: 01 40 67 90 82. the track and stands, you have the rowing boat fans enjoy the lake, oct to mar: 10am-6pm. choice of panoramic restaurants, and children have fun in apr to sept: 10am-7pm. brasseries, picnic areas, free the play areas. Park: €3 – rr: €1.50. children’s play areas, ponies 16th. m° Porte maillot. train (return trip): €2.90. and behind-the-scenes visits.

61 Musée did you know? peacocks, little bridges, water Marmottan Monet lilies, pagoda, waterfalls, a in 1874, Monet exhibited Une restaurant, classical concerts, A former hunting lodge devoted chose faite au Havre (something and temporary exhibitions! to several passions. from the done at ), which he Middle Ages, there are illuminated bois de boulogne (16th). did not know how to name. m° Porte-maillot. manuscripts, while under the ‘Put impression’, he said. Third Republic, the art historian tel: 01 53 64 53 80/82. The thing known as Impression, contact for information. Paul Marmottan reconstituted Soleil levant (Sunrise) gave the grandeur of the first Empire its name to the movement Musée Dapper with a bronze and mahogany ? that revolutionized painting at Since 1986, ancestral and bed belonging to napoleon, the end of the 19th century – contemporary African arts have a backgammon table and pieces impressionism. of Sèvres biscuit porcelain. been showcased here with Also, over a hundred impressionist exhibitions, shows, meetings, Under 7s: free. paintings by Degas, Manet, and film screenings. With time, www.marmottan.com Berthe Morisot, Pissarro, Renoir, the scope of the collections has Sisley and especially Monet. Parc de Bagatelle been extended to include the culture of the Caribbean and the The Nymphéas (Water Lilies) are city of Paris Botanical diasporas of sub-Saharan Africa. here, as well as the Cathédrale Garden de Rouen, and the Pont Japonais. 35 bis rue Paul-valéry (16th). 2 rue Louis-boilly (16th). The result of a bet wagered m° victor Hugo. m° La muette. between Marie-Antoinette and tel: 01 45 00 91 75. Daily: 11am- tel: 01 44 96 50 33. the Comte d’Artois, this Anglo- 7pm, except tues and thurs. tues to sun: 10am-6pm. Chinese bagatelle nestling in €6 – rr: €4. Under 26s, and last thurs: late opening until 8pm. the Bois de Boulogne was created Wed of the month: free. mon, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec: in just 64 days! The garden www.dapper.com.fr closed. €10 – rr: €5. has a renowned rose garden, DiscoVer Mona Bismarck american center the french open each year welcoming 500 players for art & culture and 400,000 spectators! The museum offers permanent and thematic exhibitions. Also, discover The Mona Bismarck American Center for art & culture the players’ area, press centre, famous centre bears the name of its generous benefactor and aims court, and memorable anecdotes on a guided tour to showcase the wealth and diversity of American (french/English). art and culture through a vibrant programme of exhibitions and artistic performances. 2 av. gordon-bennett (16th). m° Porte d’auteuil. tel: 01 47 43 48 48. Wed, Fri, sat, and sun: 34 av. de new York (16th). m° alma - marceau. 10am-6pm. museum: €8. Under 18s: €4. tel: 01 47 23 38 88. Wed to sun: 11am-6pm. behind-the-scenes visit. res. necessary: €10.50. sch hols: closed. Under 18s: €8.50. €7 – rr: €5. Under 12s: free. museum and behind-the-scenes visit: €15.50. www.monabismarck.org Under 18s: €10.50. stade roland-Garros – Musée http://fft.fr/roland-garros/musee/le-musee-de-la-fft de la fédération française de tennis and behind-the-scenes tour Borg, Connors, McEnroe, noah … What tennis champion has not played on the or no.1 court? The stadium was built in 1928 to create a venue worthy of defending the (won on American soil). Since then, Roland-Garros has staged

62 pub_DNP_web.indd 1 Photos: © OTCP / M. Bertrand, A. Dupont ; Thinkstock. all Paris isonPARISINFO.COM Events, walks, museums, hotels,restaurants, shopping,tours: excursions : tout Paris est sur Sorties, loisirs, musées,hôtels, restaurants, shopping, PARISINFO.COM 18/04/13 10:51 Jardin des serres d’auteuil 11 place des États-Unis (16th). city of Paris Botanical Garden m° Kléber, iéna. tel: 01 40 22 11 00. mon to sat: 10am-6pm, except tues, sun This garden is a world of surprises: classic and and public hols. €5 – rr: €3.50. Under 18s: free. regular, then winding and hilly in the English style; www.baccarat.fr Japanese here, Mediterranean there, rich in art – with its Dalou fountain and Rodin mascarons –, fondation Pierre Bergé – and in botany – with its 230 varieties of trees Yves saint laurent and flowers. And so exotic too, in the tropics of the 19th-century hothouses! Palm trees, birds The foundation organizes fashion, painting, photography in an aviary, banana trees, hibiscus, carp and and decorative arts exhibitions every year … Another passion flowers thrive. mission of the foundation’s is the conservation 16th. m° Porte d’auteuil. tel: 39 75. and promotion of Yves Saint Laurent’s work. 3 rue Léonce reynaud (16th). m° alma - marceau. tel: 01 44 31 64 31. During temporary exhibitions: from tues to sun: 11am-6pm. closed: mon and public The foundation which watches over the work of hols. €7 – rr: €5. www.fondation.net this famous architect has its headquarters at the Jeanneret and La Roche maisons (houses), built in 1923. only the latter is open to visitors, as is Le Corbusier’s apartment-studio – where he lived from 1933 to 1965 – located on the last floor of the Molitor building. maison La roche. 10 square du Docteur blanche (16th). m° . tel: 01 42 88 75 72. mon: 1.30pm-6pm. tues to sat: 10am-6pm. €8 – rr: €5. Under 14s: free. Musée du Vin Le corbusier’s apartment-studio. former wine cellars in rue des Eaux are a delightful 24 rue nungesser et coli (16th). m° Porte d’auteuil. place to find out more about the history of wine, tel: 01 42 88 75 72. sat: 10am-1pm and 1.30pm-5pm. wine regions, and utensils. oenology courses €8 – rr: €5. Under 14s: free. Joint ticket and tasting sessions are also offered as an option. maison La roche and apartment-studio: €12. rue des eaux. 5 square charles-Dickens (16th). www.fondationlecorbusier.fr m° Passy. tel: 01 45 25 63 26. tues to sun: 10am-6pm. €10 – rr: €9. Musée Baccarat Under 14s: free. www.museeduvinparis.com The magic of this mansion, founded in 1764 and transformed into a crystal palace by the designer Philippe Starck, operates on three levels. Everything on the run from his creditors, Balzac took refuge begins with monumental rooms and candelabras in the village of Passy in 1840. He spent seven years Folie des Grandeurs. next is Alchimie, where some of intensely productive writing on the garden level of the secrets of crystal glass are unveiled. finally, of the house, rented in the name of M. de Breugnol. Au-delà de la Transparence, presents the facets The writer corrected La Comédie humaine here, of prolific expertise with masterpieces. and wrote La Cousine Bette, etc. 47 rue raynouard (16th). m° Passy. tel: 01 55 74 41 80. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon GUiMarD facaDes and public hols. Permanent collections: free the castel béranger was completed in 1898, (except during temporary exhibition times). in rue La Fontaine. given the nickname ‘castel www.balzac.paris.fr dérangé’ (crazy castle), this apartment block is representative of Hector guimard’s artistic rue de Passy style. He became the prominent exponent of A good place to browse for a fashionable new the art nouveau style. see his work in the 16th wardrobe. for something to eat, stop off at Place arrondissement at numbers 14, 17, 19 and 21 de Passy, with its covered market leading on to rue rue La Fontaine, numbers 8, 10, 40, 60 rue agar, de l’Annonciation and the church past delicatessens, Hôtel guimard, 120 and 122 avenue mozart, etc. greengrocers, wine shops … 64 sUrroUnDinG area Hauts-de-seine thousands of wonderful moments await you in the Hauts-de-seine area. Within easy reach of 2 Paris Paris by metro or bus, you will discover famous 5 6 luxury for people and fall in love with havens of greenery 1 3 and their inhabitants … you’ll be amazed at what there is! 4 10 km taste a

1 sèvres – cité de la céramique PMP 4 Domaine départemental de sceaux Unique in Europe, the porcelain factory has been Jean-Baptiste Colbert, a minister of Louis XiV, conserving and passing on its expertise since commissioned the greatest artists of the time to the 18th century. its collections include works make his residence fit for a king. Since 1937, the from all countries and all periods. chateau has housed the Musée de l’Île-de-france. 2 place de la manufacture. 92310 sèvres. rer b Parc de sceaux. museum: tel: 01 41 87 29 50. m° Pont de sèvres. tel: 01 46 29 22 00. Daily, except tues. €3 – rr: €1.50. Park: free. Factory visit by appointment. www.domaine-de-sceaux.hauts-de-seine.net €6 – rr: €4.50. Under 25s and 1st sun of the month: free. www.sevresciteceramique.fr 5 Domaine national de saint-cloud 2 Musée du château de Malmaison PMP on this estate there is no chateau but 460 hectares Acquired in 1799 by Joséphine Bonaparte, the Château of greenery for walking and cycling and also de Malmaison became the residence of the future a museum retracing its history. emperor and his wife and the seat of the french m° boulogne - Pont de saint-cloud. government. tel: 01 41 12 02 90. Daily. Free for pedestrians. contact for opening times and admission prices (cars). 18-25 yrs eU: free. www.saint-cloud.monuments-nationaux.fr

6 albert-Kahn, museum and gardens The banker Albert Kahn laid out wonderful gardens and created an exceptional collection of 183,000 metres of film footage and 72,000 autochromes between 1909 and 1931. av. du château. 92500 rueil-malmaison. 10-14 rue du Port. 92100 boulogne-billancourt. m° or rer a La Défense - , then bus 258. m° boulogne - Pont de saint-cloud. tel: 01 41 29 05 55. Daily except tues. contact for tel: 01 55 19 28 00. Daily except mon. opening times. €6.50. Under 18 to 25 yrs: €5. contact for opening times. €4 – rr: €2.50. 18-25 yrs eU: free. www.chateau-malmaison.fr Under 12s and 1st sun of the month: free. www.albert-kahn.hauts-de-seine.net 3 Maison des Jardies – Musée léon Gambetta This former wine-grower’s house, boasting the label ‘Maison des illustres’, was transformed in the 18th contact century into a country house and was home to Balzac in 1838, who was fleeing his creditors, then to Léon Comité départemental du tourisme Gambetta in 1878, who came here to relax. des Hauts-de-Seine 14 av. gambetta. 92310 sèvres. immeuble reflet – Défense. tel: 01 41 12 02 90. contact for opening times. 14 rue François arago. 92000 nanterre. €5.50 – rr: €4. 18-25 yrs eU: free. tel: 01 46 93 92 92. [email protected] www.monuments-nationaux.fr www.tourisme92.com 65 MYtHical PARiS contribute to themakingofamyth! following the 1998f the tanks ofthe14July, thecelebrations parades, thecycles ofthet impressive too. the1918andliberation the futuristic vessel-like drugstore isquite Champs-élysées. atthetop oftheavenue, Païva, afew steps from therond pointdes arts museum andthepalace ofthecourtesan bedroom ofJeannelanvinatthedecorative Visitors willfall underthespellofsilky Montaigne, afew Picassos attheorangerie. avenue gabriel,fashion designers inavenue of thet and , theseinefrom therailings and beyond, thevoluted columns ofthegrand up to thegates oftheélysée Palace. colonnade –abriefhistory tour thatcontinues Carrée, thegrande galerie, andthe 175-metre The Lacemaker byVermeer. there’s theCour on thebanks oftheaegeanseaand discovered ofThe WingedVictory Samothrace, louvre, there isTheWedding Feast at Cana, at thePlace delaConcorde. then,atthe with thesmile ofMonalisaandthehieroglyphs this legendary district, starting ofcourse, there isnoescaping thefascination of uileries gardens, town housesin ootball w • louvre (1st) • t • Champs-élysées (8th) • Concorde (8th) uileries (1st) our def orld Cupall rance, i S PAR

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Charles de Gaulle - Étoile (lines 1, 2, 6) • Champs-Élysées - Clemenceau (lines 1, 13) • Concorde (lines 1, 8, 12) • Tuileries (line 1) • Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre (lines 1, 7) Don’t Miss Place du général-de-gaulle (8th). champs-Élysées and the tomb of the m° charles de gaulle - Étoile. Unknown soldier + PMP tel: 01 55 37 73 77. Daily. From 1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-11pm. From 1 oct-31 mar: 10am-10.30pm. open after the parades on 8 may, 14 Jul and 11 nov. Between Concorde and Étoile, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec: closed. is the emblematic section of a €9.50 – rr: €6. Under 18s, perspective that extends from At the top of the Champs-Élysées, 18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun of the to La Défense. directly in line with the Arc du the month (nov to end mar): free. The first steps of this ‘glorious Carrousel and the Arche de la www.monuments-nationaux.fr way’, an obligatory passage for Défense, is napoleon’s triumphant patriotic parades, were however antique arch. Commissioned in modest. Lined with undergrowth, 1806 to celebrate the victories of the avenue reached the current the Great Army, it was completed did you know? site of Place de l’Étoile in 1724. in 1836. its huge proportions – A fashionable place to walk, the 50 metres high and 45 wide – are from the roof dominating Place de l’Étoile, twelve avenues gardens were devastated at the decorated with fine sculpture by fall of the Empire. They regained Cortot and Étex, along with Rude’s radiate outwards, some with the names of victories their splendour around 1840: famous Marseillaise. The arch candelabras, fountains, creamy became a national symbol. (friedland, iéna, Wagram) and generals of the Empire pavilions, landscaping with A flame is rekindled each evening flowers and copses date from this at 6.30pm and the inscription (Carnot, Hoche, Kléber, Marceau). When the sun sets period of balls and theatres. it ‘Here lies a french soldier, who ? was one hundred years later that died for his country’ is written on under the Arch directly in line with the Champs, it really rapid development occurred when the tomb of an unknown soldier affluence spread to the west of laid to rest here in 1921. is a spectacular sight! 67 the capital. The avenue was then Daily: 9am-5.45pm, except tues, four years to travel from Luxor! adorned with prestigious palaces, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec. Two fountains, embellished cafes and restaurant terraces Wed and Fri: late opening until with golden mermaids and fish, and cinemas – joined today by 9.45pm. €12. enliven the grey, green and ready-to-wear fashion stores Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, golden decor of the square. and high-tech showrooms. under 26s (Fri late opening, Everything can be found on except exhibitions Hall napoleon) Jardin des tuileries the ‘Champs’: films, dresses, and 1st sun of the month (oct to Statues populate the terraces, lunch, cotton and compresses, mar): free. the lawns and flowerbeds racing cars, yoghurts and fresh exhibitions Hall napoleon: €13. laid out in the french style, the vegetables, books, CDs, Joint ticket: €16. multimedia copses and the areas around the perfume … from morning guide (commentary of works ornamental ponds: an academic to midnight, sometimes 24 hours according to profile of visitor): Spartacus on a marble pedestal a day, often 7 days a week. €3/€5. www.louvre.fr and the contemporary Welcoming Hands, by , Musée du louvre plus classical allegories and + PMP Tinguely’s tricolor. The green The biggest museum in Paris, did you know? Maillol bronzes emerge from and home of the , Uncovered by archaeological the labyrinth of hedges that , Venus excavations in 1985, the connect the Tuileries to the de Milo and The Winged Victory foundations of the donjon and Louvre. At the other end, of Samothrace was, first and the moat of the castle, built at in a direct line with the great foremost, the jewel in the to the city, under axis, the garden opens out crown of the kings, emperors the reign of Philippe Auguste spectacularly onto Concorde. and republics of france. from (1180 to 1223), can be visited Lush greenery, games, in the medieval part of the the sombre late-12th century refreshment chalets, and museum. fortress to Peï’s glass pyramid, farniente lie between the two. inaugurated in 1989, many have ?

reigned here and practically everyone has left their mark – Renaissance, Classic, first and Work began on Place Louis XV Second Empire, contemporary … in 1755. it broke with the tradition The Louvre, a museum since 1793, of enclosed royal squares, to open up the perspective to houses collections of Western art 1st. m° concorde. from the Middle Ages to 1848, and the Tuileries gardens. The fine collections of ancient oriental, mansion houses – the Hôtel lido de Paris + Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan de la Marine and the Hôtel Crillon underlined the axis of the The Clerico brothers bought the and Roman civilizations which Lido from Léon Volterra in 1946. preceded and influenced statue of the monarch – were demolished after thirty years. They renovated it and decorated them, graphic arts and islamic it in the most luxurious fashion. arts in the museum’s new spaces. Place de la Revolution is where Louis XVi, Marie-Antoinette, They created the dinner-show Danton and Robespierre were concept which has been copied all guillotined. However, Place de over the world and every revue is la Concorde spells reconciliation. a roaring success. Eventually, Louis-Philippe sought a the Lido became known the monument that would cool world over. revolutionary and royalist 116 bis av. des main entrance via passions, which he found champs-Élysées (8th). the pyramid (1st). in the 3,300-year-old obelisk, m° george v. m° Palais royal - a gift from the pasha of Egypt. see p.98. musée du Louvre. Erected in 1836, its 23 metres tel: 01 40 20 53 17. and 230 tons of pink granite took

68 DiscoVer

PMP i S PAR Grand Palais Musée de l’orangerie + This impressive stone building, crowned with a splendid metallic-framed glass roof, was constructed for the Exposition Universelle in 1900. Architecturally daring in its time, the Grand Palais hosts diverse t H ical events under the great nave and four exhibitions

per year in the Galeries nationals. it also houses M Y the Palais de la découverte. entrance to galeries nationales du grand Palais: Built in 1852, the orangery of the Tuileries soon lost avenue du général-eisenhower (8th). its fruit trees to become a storehouse, and a room entrance to nave: avenue Pdt-Winston-churchill (8th). for examinations and dog competitions. its destiny m° champs-Élysées - clemenceau. became clearer when Clemenceau and Monet tel: 01 44 13 17 17. opening times and rates vary. chose it to house the complete cycle of the Nymphéas www.grandpalais.fr (Water Lilies) on which he worked from 1914 until his death, eight years later. Since its renovation, the panels of a landscape filled with water lilies, weeping willows, reflections of trees and clouds – 2 metres high, almost 100 long – have regained their beauty and meaning in daylight. This exceptional venue also does justice to the collection of Paul Guillaume and Domenica Walter of whom it was said Petit Palais – musée des Beaux- ‘the paintings and statues whispered in her ear’. arts de la Ville de Paris Here, visitors may admire works by Renoir, Cézanne, Like its ‘Grand’ neighbour, the Petit (little) Palais Rousseau, Modigliani, Marie Laurencin, Matisse, is an example of the eclectic splendour of the Derain, Picasso, etc. Exposition of 1900. The building alternates white Jardin des tuileries, seine-side (1st). m° concorde. and coloured marble, moulding and garlands, painted tel: 01 44 77 80 07. Daily: 9am-6pm, except tues, ceilings, mosaic flooring and opal stained-glass 1 may, 14 Jul (am) and 25 Dec. €9 – rr: €6.50. windows around an interior garden. The city’s fine + €2 for temporary exhibitions. Arts museum since 1902, the Petit Palais displays Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun of the month: free. collections of painting, sculpture and art objects www.musee-orangerie.fr from antiquity to 1918. Amongst other marvels, visitors will admire Greek amphora, orthodox icons, did you know? Gothic ivories, italian Madonnas, paintings by Rubens, for 30 years, Monet placed his easel opposite Saxe porcelain and blown-crystal glass vases. his water garden to capture the changes in nature: the Nymphéas cycle numbers some 300 paintings! ? studio Harcourt Paris Established in 1934, the studio soon became a place not to be missed for Paris’s in-crowd. famous writers, painters, singers, sportsmen av. Pdt-Winston-churchill (8th). and actors such as Marlene Dietrich, Salvador Dalí, m° champs-Élysées - clemenceau. Brigitte Bardot, Zinédine Zidane and Laetitia Casta tel: 01 53 43 40 00. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, have all come here to be photographed. public hols, easter sun and Whit sun. 10 rue Jean-goujon (8th). m° champs-Élysées - thurs: open until 8pm during temporary exhibitions. clemenceau. tel: 01 42 56 67 67. Permanent exhibitions free. www.petitpalais.paris.fr visit with commentary, res. necessary. www.studio-harcourt.eu

69 Musée Jacquemart-andré musée des arts décoratifs PMP A stroll through the nave and galleries is a wonderful experience. The setting is all whiteness and airy spaces with calligraphy quotations in red on the walls. The riches of the Medieval and Renaissance periods embellish the residence and testify to its grandeur. from Henri iV to Louis XVi, it is pure magnificence. Ebony and rosewood, classical ideals, nélie Jacquemart was commissioned to paint useful objects and philosophy all contribute to the the portrait of Édouard André, the heir of a banking rich pomp of the salons. Bourgeois splendor triumphs family. They were to remain inseparable and devoted in the 19th century. Then come the sinuous curves their fortune to the collection exhibited in their of art nouveau, the geometry of art deco, and mansion, built in 1875. The magnificent reception the industrial logic and functionalism of the 1950s, rooms, winter garden and private apartments are before plastic and anti-conformism give way to decorated with Louis XV and Louis XVi furniture, individualism and the desire for an understated, paintings by Boucher, Chardin and fragonard and natural comfort. treasures of the italian Renaissance. The smoking room is English with Hoppner, Lawrence and Reynolds. The flemish and Dutch masters of the 17th century, led by Rembrandt, are displayed in the library. 158 bd Haussmann (8th). m° miromesnil. tel: 01 45 62 11 59. Daily: 10am-6pm. €12 – rr: €10. Under 7s: free. www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com musée de la Publicité PMP Palais-Bourbon The collection of posters (some of which date from the 18th century), and press, film, and radio The , which has housed the Assemblée advertisements showcase advertising in all its forms, nationale (the lower house of the french parliament), including a retrospective of Chinese posters, a tribute was built in 1726 for Louise-françoise, daughter to the pioneers of the advertisement, displays of Louis XiV and Madame de Montespan, the widow of logos, the power of images from Man Ray to of the Duc de Bourbon. Jean-Paul Goude, the epic story of the ‘nantais’ biscuit and a Senegalese soldier on a box of cocoa. These works cannot be on permanent display due to their fragile nature and are thus presented in temporary exhibitions only. However the multimedia library is open to everyone.

musée de la mode et du textile PMP 33 quai d’orsay (7th). m° assemblée nationale. Silks, embroidery, printed fabrics, lace, tapestry – tel: 01 40 63 56 00. reservations recommended. 31,000 pieces in total – present the history of textiles Proof of identity essential. from the 14th century onwards. fashion is showcased Free. www.assemblee-nationale.fr with a collection of outfits and accessories from the 17th century to creations by Balmain, Chanel, les arts décoratifs Courrèges, Dior, Lanvin, Lacroix, Poiret, Saint Laurent, etc. These works cannot be on permanent display This institute pursues the objectives it was given due to their fragile nature and so appear in temporary at the outset, ‘to promote what is both beautiful exhibitions only. and useful’ and groups together the Musée nissim-de-Camondo and the Musées des Arts musée nissim-de-camondo PMP décoratifs, de la Publicité, de la Mode et du Textile. in the first decade of the twentieth century, the 107 rue de rivoli (1st). m° Palais royal - banker Moïse de Camondo, a passionate collector musée du Louvre. tel: 01 44 55 57 50. of 18th-century decorative arts, had a magnificent tues to sun: 11am-6pm. thurs: open until 9pm. mansion built on the edge of , inspired €9.50 – €8. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. by the Petit Trianon at Versailles but equipped with all www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr modern comforts. in his wood-panelled apartments, 70 refined residence. family opportunity to visitan exceptionallyA wonderful in 1936, the mansion became a museum. Versailles to the table of Catherine salon to porcelain collections,hetakes usfrom to travel throughto travel the universe. exhibitions. And theplanetariumis an invitation the focus for thepermanent and temporary mathematics, and living things), which provide (the Earth and the Universe, matter and energy, experiments before the public on four themes outspectacular questions, scientist-mediators carry What is outthere in space? To these answer does a lightbulb light up? Doanimals speak? How Palais deladécouverte www.monuments-nationaux.fr of themonth(from nov tomay): free. €5.50 –rr:€4.Under 18s,18-25yrs eUand1stsun t 29 ruePasquier (8th).m°saint-Lazare. of fleurs-de-lis, analtar in whitemarble, and a sculpture as a Greek cross, itis decorated inside with angels, in 1826, on the site oftheirfirst tomb. Laid out chapel, completed Louis XViii erected a funerary and transferred tothe Basilique de Saint-Denis. the Restoration, their remains were exhumed on the actual site of square Louis XVi. During were hastily buried in the Madeleine cemetery, Guillotined in 1793, Louis XVi and Marie-Antoinette 18-25 yrs eU:free. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr closed monandt t 63 ruedemonceau(8th).°v he artfully displayed his collection. el: 0143281548.contactfor openingtimes. el: 0153890650.Wed tosun:10am-5.30pm. Marie-Antoinette soutenue parla Religion,Marie-Antoinette by Cortot. ues. €7.50–€5.50. illiers. PMP ii of Russia. f rom the blue

www.cernuschi.paris.fr Permanent collectionsfree. public hols,eastersunandWhitun. t 7 av. v ceramics and much more. inundatedwith light, are jadenecklaces, window Buddha. Around this sagemeditating opposite a bay centrethe museum gives stageto a hugebronze China, from theneolithic period to the 13thcentury, the City. Rooted inthe art and archaeology of ancient with his mansion, at the edge of Parc Monceau to together of art he hadcollected on his long travels Henri Cernuschi(1821-1896)bequeathed the works Philanthropic financier and aesthete traveller, Musée cernuschi www.palais-decouverte.fr €9 –rr:€6.Planetarium:(over 6s):€3supplement. mon, 1Jan,ay, 14Jul,22Juland25Dec:closed. sun andsomepublichols:10am-7pm. t m° champs-Élysées -clemenceau. a 8th. m°onceau. the capturewas of a wolf, in1972. withmoss! The last follytomb covered ofnote a little bridge, a grotto, rocks an Egyptian and even antique ruins surrounding the ornamental pond, areas, there remain someextravagances: the mock andplayof outdoor curiosities. Amongstthelawns the first irregular gardens designed like acabinet Anglo-Chinese‘folly’This 18th-century one of was Parc Monceau el: 0153962150.Daily: 10am-6pm,except mon, ues tosat: 9.30am-6pm. v. Franklin-D.-r elasquez (8th).m°v oosevelt (8th). illiers.

71

MYtHical PARiS UnDiscoVereD PARiS lost, everything hasmetamorphosed! banks ofthe river Bièvre, nothinghasbeen since thetimeofmedieval tanners onthe de f national library –theBibliothèquenationale the four book-shaped towers off steel, andanundulating footbridge between green tunnels,bridgesofspindle-shaped side oftheseineto the other, there are lush to smoked-glass offices. andto go from one the waste ground ofwarehouses thatbackon skyscrapers, organic vegetable gardens on blocks standing shoulder to shoulder with flowering palisades,workers’ housing y and pagodasdot1970stower blocks. paving stones ofabandonedcovered markets, a shoppingcentre now flourishes onthe of theformer grands Moulins flour mills. university isopento students onthesite the tramway isbackinservice. thediderot the former Paris- ivry refrigerator station. and rehearsals take place atthef and isreflected inthewater. artistic creation the Ministry of finance straddles thequay ramps installed. thefuturistic portico of has beenlandscaped, andbenchesskater renaissance. thedisusedformer railway line the south-east of Paris isundergoing a ou won’t believe your eyes! rance –andthecontemporary cinema… • BoisdeVincennes (12th) • Bercy (12th),t • Place d’italie (13th) • Viaducdesarts (12th) rance’s rigos, olbiac (13th) H

Quai de Reuilly- Jussieu la Rapée Diderot Gare de Lyon i Gare d’Austerlitz

Montgallet i S PAR

Place Monge

PARC ZOOLOGIQUE DE PARIS Censier Bercy Daubenton V ere D PALAIS OMNISPORT MUSÉE DE DE PARIS-BERCY St-Marcel Quai de L’HISTOIRE la Gare DE l’IMMIGRATION Gobelins H AQUARIUM TROPICAL Campo- Formio Un D isco Chevaleret Cour St-Émilion

Nationale Bibliothèque Place Fr. Mitterrand d’Italie Place d’Italie (lines 5, 6 ,7) • Gobelins (line 7) • Gare de Lyon (lines 1, 14) • Cour Saint-Émilion (line 14) • Bercy (lines 6, 14) Don’t Miss

Parc zoologique Bois de Vincennes Parc floral de Paris de Paris city of Paris botanical garden The new zoo was designed with animal well-being, the in summertime, jazz and classical preservation of endangered music concerts fill the air of the species and biodiversity park, with its little vales, water conservation in mind. Discover 995 hectares of trees, lakes, features, patios, pine wood, the five biozones and a whole host islands and grass! This royal cedars and beeches. in the orchard, of wonderful animals: lemurs, hunting ground, now Paris’s largest the Jardin insolite cultivates Grevy’s zebras, giraffes, wolves, green space, is crisscrossed with exotic species and vegetables from lions, wolverines, manatees, etc. 32 km of car-free roads, some the past, while the hothouses of intersection of avenue Daumesnil 20 km of cycle paths and a similar the Butterfly garden are mostly and the route de la ceinture number of bridle paths. And what’s home to cocoons and chrysalises. du Lac (12th). m° Porte Dorée. more, the wood also has a zoo, Don’t miss the Dahlia garden, tel: 01 40 79 56 01. a race track, an ornithological the Valley of flowers, etc. mid-oct to mid-mar: 10am-5pm. reserve, a theatre, a Buddhist mid-mar to mid-oct: 10am-6pm temple, and more. (wk), 9.30am-7.30pm (w/e, public 12th. m° Porte Dorée. hols and school hols). €22. 3-11 yrs: €14. did you know? Under 3s: free. www.parczoologiquedeparis.fr This working organic farm enables young city-dwellers esplanade du château (12th). to explore country life through m° château de vincennes. the seasons. tel: 01 43 28 41 59. La Ferme de Paris. route du sept to June: free. Pesage (12th). www.paris.fr June to sept, Wed, sat and sun: €5.50 – rr: €2.75. ? www.paris.fr 73 château de Vincennes arts anD Bercy Village PMP crafts The Capetian kings established over 50 craft workers their hunting manor in the and designers have their surrounding forest in the 12th ateliers under the vaults century. Two centuries went by, of the viaduc des arts. Charles V had a keep built here Like the neighbouring Bercy Wood, leather, copper, along with ramparts and a Holy Park, the village is reserved for bark, thread, gouache, Chapel. in the 17th century, pedestrians. Themed restaurants, marble, moss, straw, clay, Louis Xiii grew up here and cinema, shops for good wine paper, pigments, and Louis XiV stayed here. Half and good living, Zen culture glass … are transformed fortified castle, half classic palace, for the mind and body occupy before your eyes. it is a wonderful ensemble! these former 19th-century wine 1 to 129 av. av. de Paris. vincennes. storehouses with their pointed Daumesnil (12th). m° château de vincennes. roofs and stonework. M° Ledru-Rollin – tel: 01 43 28 15 48. cour saint-Émilion (12th). Gare-de-Lyon. 21 may to 22 sept: 10am-6pm. m° cour saint-Émilion. Tel: 01 44 75 80 66. 23 sept to 20 may: 10am-5pm. tel: 0 825 166 075 (€0.15/min). www.viaducdesarts.fr Daily, except 1 Jan, 1 may, 1 and Daily: 11am-9pm. 11 nov and 25 Dec. €8.50 – restaurants: 11am to 2 in rr: €5.50. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eventually give way to the former the morning. eU and 1st sun of the month residence of the Merovingian www.bercyvillage.com (nov to mar): free. kings, now the Jardin de Reuilly, www.monuments-nationaux.fr with its half-moonshaped lawn. did you know? A footbridge, a tunnel, and that This village is 6,500-years- Viaduc des arts and just about sums up this stretch promenade plantée old! in 1990, the building of greenery that was once Paris’s site for the renovation of the The walk begins in mid-air, on circular railway line. in total, storehouses and creation of avenue Daumesnil. A staircase 4.5 km of pure delight. the park unearthed three leads up to the viaduct of a former 12th. m° bastille. piogues and artefacts from railway line. Brick mansions the neolithic period.? DiscoVer la Butte-aux-cailles Manufacture nationale des Gobelins, de Beauvais et de la savonnerie Around 1440, Jean Gobelin, a ‘scarlet dyer’ came to live on the banks of the River Bièvre. Later in 1667, Colbert grouped together tapestry, ebony, gold and silversmith workshops to form the Manufacture Royale des Meubles de la Couronne. At the rate of 1 m2 of tapestry per year and using the high warp This churchless village, which witnessed popular technique, tapestry-making goes on with respect uprisings in 1871, owes its name to a certain Monsieur for this traditional art. Caille, who planted vines here around 1540. Although 42 av. des gobelins (13th). m° gobelins. the libertarian spirit has disappeared with time, good tel: 01 44 08 53 49. humour remains among the little houses with flowers, Daily during temporary exhibition periods: and the small, cobbled alleyways such as the rues de 11am-6pm. closed: mon, 25 Dec, 1 Jan and l’Espérance, des Cinq-Diamants, and de la Butte-aux- 1 may. €6 – rr: €4. Free: 1st sun of the month. Cailles. Discover its small and co-op run cafes with www.mobiliernational.culture.gouv.fr walls tattooed with poetic Miss.Tic stencils. 74 cinémathèque française – cHinatoWn in Paris musée du cinéma PMP optical instruments, cameras, magic lanterns, i S PAR legendary costumes, posters, documents from film shoots and cult objects all make up the collection of this museum. film buffs will find the greatest names in cinema including Charlie Chaplin, fritz Lang,

Buñuel and Alfred Hitchcock. V ere D 51 rue de bercy (12th). m° bercy. neon lights flash in chinese ideograms. tel: 01 71 19 33 33. mon to sat: 12-noon to 7pm. even Uncle sam’s fast food restaurant has sun: 10am-8pm. tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec: closed. a pagoda roof! below the tower blocks on the €5 – rr: €4. Under 12s: €2.50. olympiades paved area, you’ll find guavas, silk www.cinematheque.fr tunics, tonkinese soups and karaoke DvDs in the shopping arcades. and here, new Year is Un D isco Bibliothèque nationale de france – celebrated a good month after 1 January! since site françois-Mitterrand the 1970s, dragon dances, kites, gongs and once upon a time, there were four towers in the shape flowers have been parading in the triangle of of open books, dominating the Seine on a wooden avenue d’ivry, avenue de choisy and boulevard square and set around a garden. Since 1996, they have massena, which form the heart of this asian been the repository for books while the Haut-de-jardin quarter in the 13th arrondissement. and Rez-de-jardin levels devote their reading rooms – red carpet, steel and natural wood – to all fields of knowledge, printed material as well as multimedia discover the Musée des Arts forains, the Théâtre and many fine exhibitions. du Merveilleux, the Salons Vénitiens or the Théâtre Quai François-mauriac (13th). de Verdure. Quite simply magical! m° bibliothèque François mitterrand. 53 av. des terroirs de France (12th). tel: 01 53 79 49 49. guided tours: tues to Fri, 2.30pm; m° cour saint-Émilion. tel: 01 43 40 16 22. sat and sun, 3pm. €3. www.bnf.fr guided visits by appointment only. www.pavillons-de-bercy.com les frigos A city of artists. This is the name given by its tenants Palais de la Porte Dorée – to the former Paris-ivry refrigeration station built in Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration 1921. An industrial wasteland, due to be demolished, – aquarium tropical ? it was transformed into workshops for artists as part of the Paris project. Contact for The Palais de la Porte Dorée, a listed building, was information and then go and visit them! built for the 1931 international Exposition Coloniale. A symbol of art deco style, it houses a tropical aquarium with clown fish, turtles, crocodiles, rockfish and piranhas … The Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration shows the role played by immigrants in the economic development, social changes and the cultural life of the country. The permanent exhibition Repères allows visitors to discover accounts and 19 rue des Frigos (13th). personal stories of immigrants, video or film excerpts, m° bibliothèque François mitterrand. ancient and contemporary works of art. www.les-frigos.com 293 av. Daumesnil (12th). m° Porte Dorée. tel: 01 53 59 58 60. tues to Fri: 10am-5.30pm. les Pavillons de Bercy sat and sun: 10am-7pm. mon, 1 may, 25 Dec This site boasts one of the world’s biggest collections and 1 Jan: closed. aquarium: €5/7 – rr: €3.50/5. of merry-go-rounds, fairground stalls and attractions, museum: €6/4.50. Under 26s and 1st sun of the which have been completely restored and are now month: free. www.palais-portedoree.fr fully functioning. Visitors in small groups can

75 sUrroUnDinG area val-de-marne

there are plenty of ideas for places to go in Paris the Val-de-Marne area. its proximity to Paris 3 means you can easily spend a day exploring 2 4 5 museums and losing all sense of time in 1 wonderful gardens … 6 10 km

1 roseraie du Val de Marne 4 exploradôme The garden devised by Jules Gravereaux and A museum for exploring the sciences, multimedia landscaped by Édouard André in 1899 boasts and sustainable development and where it is 3,177 varieties of old roses. A work of art that has prohibited … not to touch! You can start a tornado, received the label of Remarkable Garden and been stick your shadow to the wall, etc. included in the list of historical monuments. 18 av. Henri-barbusse. 94400 vitry-sur-seine. m° villejuif - Louis aragon, then bus 172. tel: 01 43 91 16 20. contact for opening times. €6 – rr: €4.50. Depending on availability: workshop, €7; workshop and visit: €9. www.exploradome.com

5 Mac/Val rue albert-Watel. 94240 L’Haÿ-les-roses. m° Porte d’italie, then bus 184. This amazing museum of contemporary art boasts tel: 01 43 99 82 80 (local council parks and gardens a rich collection of over 2,000 artworks that presents department). From 6 may to 21 sept 2014: 10am-8pm. the art scene in france from the 1950s to the present. €3 – rr: €1.50. Under 5s: free. it is also a vibrant arts venue with exhibition spaces, guided visits: sun at 2.30pm (additional admission a cinema, a documentation centre and art workshops. fee €0.75). www.roseraieduvaldemarne.fr Place de la Libération. 94400 vitry-sur-seine. m° Porte de choisy, then bus 183. 2 Musée fragonard de l’École tel: 01 43 91 64 20. tues to Fri:10am-6pm. sat, sun Vétérinaire de Maisons-alfort and public hols: 12pm-7pm. closed: mon, 1 Jan, Situated in the park of the prestigious École nationale 1 may and 25 Dec. €5 – rr: €2.50. Under 26s, Vétérinaire de Maisons-Alfort, this cabinet of students, 1st sun of the month: free. www.macval.fr curiosities presents a unique collection devoted to 6 Marché international de rungis pet animals: skeletons, moulds, natural anomalies and the famous Écorchés of Honoré fragonard The leading fresh-food market in the world, Rungis (1732-1799). can be visited on the second friday of each month 7 av. du général-de-gaulle. 94700 maisons-alfort. (except Aug), departing from the Place Denfert- m° École vétérinaire de maisons-alfort. Rochereau (Paris), at 4.30 in the morning. tel: 01 43 96 71 72. Wed, thurs, sat and sun: 2-6pm. 1 rue de la tour. bP 316. 94152 rungis cedex. €7 with audioguide. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. tel: 03 83 50 10 85. €80 (entrance fee, coach http://musee.vet-alfort.fr/ and brunch). www.visiterungis.com

3 the Marne river bends contact There is nothing like a trip along the river for discovering the exceptional natural beauty of the Val-de-Marne Tourisme & Loisirs Marne riverbanks. The guinguette (open-air cafes 16 rue Joséphine de beauharnais. with dancing) – synonymous with local popular 94500 champigny-sur-marne. culture and merriment, and Sundays at the water’s tel: 01 55 09 16 20. edge during the belle époque – combine well with [email protected] water sports activities for nature enthusiasts. www.tourisme-valdemarne.com 76

cosMoPolitan PARiS cultural adventure. next stop, a3,000m Centquatre, rued’ overtakes themonthequay. Callinatthe boat races akayak, andagraffiti-covered van it’s alengthy process. ontheurcq, arowing a bluebarge passes through agreen lock – next stop, thesaint-MartinCanal,where written thatwe shouldn’t trust inwords. huge blackboard onwhichtheartist Benhas restaurants, citygardens andaschoolboy’s Maison del’ on thehighterrace ofBelleville Park, above t and more. bar? t Chilli withbird’s beakpepperandatheatre dances andragga hiphopperformances? and kebabs at‘Ménilmuche’? Curry, capoiera and at your menu:mafé inPlace sainte-Marthe it definitely gives you anappetite. Choose a spatialodyssey onagiantscreen – the clouds –thegéode! before you reach anenormousballthatreflects pedal-driven windmills,weather vanes, kites … the Jardin desdunesandVents, you’ll find your way through theJardin desVoltiges then areas –you are inlaVillette Park. Zigzagging bamboo plantation, surrounded withlawned aking flightfrom theendofruedesenvierges, agine andapop-electro concerto echnicolor film?aslamsession, soup air, you fly over four-storey Chinese aubervilliers, for anovel • Belleville (20th) • Buttes-Chaumont (19th) • laVillette (19th) • Canalsaint-Martin(10th) 2

BICHAT- PORTE DE ST-OUEN CL. BERNARD H Bessières Porte de la Villette RUE CHAMPIONNET R. DE CRIMÉE BD ORNANO E GIL Corentin Rue Championnet AN Simplon ’ÉV Cariou L RUE CINAXE R. ORDENER E DE ZÉNITH ont D Rue . R L ’OURCQ Rue Guy Moquet RT R Marx-Dormoy Hoche R. MARC . O Rue Lamar RDE Damrém A NER Crimée venue de St-Ouen DET . JEAN LOLIVE ck COU R. RIQUET VILLIERS R. ARCHEREAU E AV i S PAR A L N Marcadet- IL V e N Rue Poissonniers ’OISE IO PORTE CIMETIÈRE DE Riquet QUAIE TH DE LA MARNE Legendr SACRÉ- D Porte DE PANTIN CLIGNA MONTMARTRE Rue Lepic CŒUR Château Rouge R. de Pantin R. D’AUBER QUAI DE L Caulaincourt DE DRE LE PRÉ- JAURÈS Clichy Rue des E La Chapelle VILLETTE . JEAN B Abesses FLAN AV RUE PETIT O ST-GERVAIS Rue RU E Ourcq U Barbès- D L . E BD Rochechouart BD DE LA CHAPELLE AV V BD BARBÈS Laumière de Clichy BASSIN DE LA SAINT- N A JAURÈS I R Bd N T LARIBOISIÈRE QUAIJEAN DE LA LOIRE SERGE MA D R. LOUISStalingrad BLANC . R. P Rue de PL. DE AV S IN R. D. É T H AN D’ANGERS R STALINGRAD R. A. CARREL M I R . BD DE ROCHECHOUAR DE MEAUX R PH E DENI SÉRURIER R

Bd des Batignolles d'Amster R. IQ GARE AV Bolivart Danube U Louis . SECRÉT E i Jaurès

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S AN C Château RIS T- A Rue Pigalle du Nord I TZ

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Ste-Trinité Buttes- os M o P olitan SAIN PORTE POISSONNIÈRE Cadet YETTE LES FA RUE DES DE L’EST B Chaumont MANOIR DE PARIS GARE DES LILAS BD DE MAGENT O LA c Pl. des RUE ST-LAZARE Colonel L R. FE LE RUE BELLES I S IL RUE QUAI DE JEMMAPES V A R S EV e R. DEPoissonnière P i Fabien ART Fêtes ELL UX BD DE BELLEVILLE E B Rue St Lazar A R. D Gare PELLEPOR ARADIS A LILAS Havre-Caumartin E Rue de Provence de l’Est Malesherbes Haussmann R. RICHER R. DE LA Pyrénées Jourdain Rue Q. DE JEMMAPES ST-LOUIS Télégraphe Grands GRANG RUE DES Chaussée d'Antin Q. DE V H Auber Boulevards AUBOURG AUBOURG

PYRÉNÉE T . GAMBETT onchet A AV Château ALMY Belleville PARC DE St-Fargeau Opéra Bonne R. DU F AUBOURG BELLEVILLE MadeleineRue Tr S Nouvelle R. DU F d’Eau

BELLEVILLE 500 m Mortier Bd de la Opéra BD DE STRASBOURG R. DUDU F TEMPLE Madeleine Av Quatre A . de l'Opéra Rue Septembre Belleville (lines 2, 11) • Pyrénées (line 11)venue • Buttes-Chaumont Parmentier (line 7 bis) • Botzaris (line 7 bis) Rue Bibliothèque Saint PLACE Nationale Réaumur PL. DE LA Ménilmontant Rue de VENDÔME Sentier• Porte de la Villette (line 7) • Porte de Pantin (line 5) • Jaurès (linesSorbier 2, 5, 7 bis) Concorde St-Denis RÉPUBLIQUE BAGNOLET PLACE Pyramides venue A DE LA Rivoli St-Honoré Temple Parmentier TÉNON Réaumur- Rue Réaumuurbigo Av. de la Tuileries R. Étienne Oberkampf Gambetta H CONCORDE Étienne RueSébastopol emple Oberkampf T T Bd du Rue de T Marcel Arts et r emple PORTE DE JARDIN DES Palais Mar Métiers Bd V République St-Eustache cel BAGNOLET TUILERIES Royal Rue de du . Gambetta Les Halles Rue Av Filles Maur Ménilmontant Palais Royal ForumDon’tCentre Miss Père Lachaise Rue du Musée du Louvre des Halles G. Pompidou Calvaire

Quai A. France Rambuteau R. de oltair ert emple St-Ambroise Bagnolet e le centquatre la Villette Chemin V the former Bourse aux Cuirs now Vieille-du-T city of Paris artistic the Théâtre Paris-Villette, the in the 19th century, the commune establishment Zénith concert hall, an equestrian of La Villette was an industrial centre, the big top of the Cabaret centre. in 1867, a cattle market Sauvage, a dragon slide, and more. and huge abattoirs were built on 211 av. Jean-Jaurès (19th). the site. in 1974, their closure led m° Porte de la villette, in the 1980s to its reconversion Porte de Pantin. into a cultural centre, symbolic of tel: 01 40 03 75 75. the renewal of the East of Paris. www.villette.com The Centquatre makes art accessible to everyone thanks to a resolutely popular, cité des sciences contemporary and demanding et de l’industrie PMP programme of events. The venue Behind its steel and glass exterior, is a lively one, with shops and this futuristic giant, surrounded spaces devoted to amateur by water offers a multitude of artistic activities and children’s The park’s wide lawns crossed by activities that make science and events. technology fun and accessible. 5 rue curial (19th). the ourcq Canal and dotted with red pavilions are a popular Permanent and temporary m° riquet. exhibitions, cités des enfants, tel: 01 53 35 50 00. place to play ball, read or enjoy the sounds of live percussion … planetarium, aquarium, 3-D tues to Fri: 12pm-7pm. cinema, workshops … it is difficult sat and sun: 11am-7pm. in fine weather, people gather to picnic and enjoy open-air to fit everything in at one go! closed: mon. 30 av. corentin-cariou (19th). www.104.fr concerts and films. Scattered around the four corners of the m° Porte de la villette. perimeter: the Grande Halle,

79 individual reservations: cité de la musique – and workers movements went 0 892 69 70 72 (€0.34/min). Musée de hand-in-hand. The Armenians group reservations: la musique PMP arrived in 1918, Greeks in 1920, 01 40 05 12 12. German Jews in 1933, Spaniards in Situated in the south of the tues to sat: 10am-6pm. 1939 … in ‘Babelville’, the whole Parc de la Villette, the Cité de sun: 10am-7pm. 1 Jan, 1 may, world mixes, except perhaps la musique provides the widest 25 Dec and mon: closed. the blackbird and song thrush access to musical culture for all, explora exhibitions: €9 – rr: €6. nesting in the heights of the park. with concerts, a museum, Under 6s: free. temporary exhibitions and Planetarium (from 3 yrs): €3 saint-Martin canal educational activities and supplement. publications. The museum www.cite-sciences.fr showcases a collection of almost 1,000 instruments and art objects the cité des enfants from the 17th century to the it offers two exhibitions present. (2-7 yrs and 5-12 yrs) in the form 221 av. Jean-Jaurès (19th). of interactive learning activities: m° Porte de Pantin. Extending over 4.5 km, of which building a house, playing with tel: 01 44 84 44 84. two are underground, it has linked water … Even parents will love it! tues to sat: 12-noon-6pm. sun: 10am-6pm. the Port de l’Arsenal to the €9 – rr and over 2s: €6. La Villette canal basin since www.cite-sciences.fr €7 – exhibitions and permanent collections: €9. 1825. its course across working rr: contact for information. class areas, punctuated with Under 26s: free entry to the locks, swing bridges, Venice-style permanent collection. footbridges, and lined with www.citedelamusique.fr chestnut trees and squares, inspired Georges Simenon, Léo Belleville Malet and Marcel Carné in the film Hôtel du Nord. Yes! it was the argonaute from the little iron bridge at the A real 1950s naval submarine. Grange-aux-Belles – Vinaigriers tues to sat: 10am-5.30pm. crossroads – reconstructed sun: 10am-6.30pm. in the studio – that Arletty €3. From 3 yrs. famously quipped to Louis Jouvet ‘Atmosphère…’. not surprising, audio guide visits. in the beginning there were www.cite-sciences.fr serenading by the water and the sources, hence the names supper have become an institution the géode of the streets rue de la Mare here. Another way of experiencing (pond), rue des Rigoles (rivulets), cinema on this giant hemispheric and wine fresh from the vines, did you know? screen. called piquette (cheap local wine). 26 av. corentin-cariou (19th). in 1730, the Grand-Rue of the from Port de l’Arsenal, as m° Porte de la villette. village (rues de Belleville and well as from Port de Solférino €12 – rr: €9. du faubourg-du-Temple) were (below the orsay museum) Under 3s: not allowed. paved. Carousing took place under to Parc de la Villette, or the www.lageode.fr shady trees. from cheap eating other way round, cruises with houses to popular dance halls, a commentary will take you every carnival was rounded off on a peaceful voyage through with an extravagant parade down the 4th, 10th, 11th and 19th the Courtille. in the 19th century, arrondissements.? people of modest means flooded into the factories: misery

80 DiscoVer

views across the horizon or down to the balletic black i S PAR Bassin de la Villette and ourcq canal swans and moorhens below. Until the industrial decline of La Villette, after the 19th. m° Pyrénées, buttes-chaumont. Second World War, wood, coal, fodder, and sugar Manoir de Paris passed in transit along its long quaysides. Today, they are the location for attractive cinemas, pétanque The first haunted house in france, the Manoir players, cosy cafes to warm up in, benches in the de Paris enables visitors to relive 17 Parisian fresh air looking on to the lapping water, fishermen, urban legends (the Jardin des Tuileries skinner, barge-theatres, a water sports centre in a reconverted the bloodthirsty patissier, the phantom of the

19th-century warehouse, etc. in the background you’ll opéra …) in the prestigious setting of a listed building os M o P olitan hear the cries of gulls and the referee’s whistle. that has been classified as a historical monument. c Thrills guaranteed! Ménilmontant of all the Belleville hamlets this one is the most famous, with its rough wine and guingette dance halls that played host to Piaf, Chevalier, Trenet and others. The old songs can still be heard in its winding streets mixed with contemporary melodies: informal bars, groovy apéros, gypsy jazz or philosophical debates at the cafe, colourful bazaars and tropical stalls, 18 rue de Paradis (10th). m° gare de l’est. trompe-l’oeil and artistic graffiti at the bend in rue tel: 06 70 89 35 87. Fri: 6pm-10pm. sat and sun: des Cascades or on rue de l’Ermitage, rickety small 3pm-7pm. €25 – rr: €22.50. Under 16s: €18.50. houses and the red citadels of the affordable housing www.lemanoirdeparis.fr built in the 1920s.

Quartier Jourdain Quartier de la Mouzaïa Also known as Haut-Belleville, the area around it is a working-class housing estate built between the the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste, built in the Gothic end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century! style in 1859, and a patisserie that’s almost as old, Running down the side of the hill are some twenty in rue du Jourdain, offers typical Parisian dishes pedestrianized little streets, with delightful ‘villas’ and quiet walks past hidden courtyards and artists’ laid out in a star shape from rue de Mouzaïa and rue workshops opening onto flower gardens. Michel-Hidalgo. Red brick dominates but each of the houses has its own character – a pink facade here, yellow tiles there, shutters with heart-shaped cut-outs, tidy yards and wild gardens.

le Plateau – centre d’art contemporain immaculate walls display contemporary art for Parc des Buttes-chaumont the public with exhibitions and an experimental in 1860, the buttes (little hills) of the mont chauve space that presents the works of artists in residence were still quarried for gypsum and blasted in the open in Paris. 50 metres away at 22, cours du 7e Art, air. Seven years later, on the orders of napoleon iii, the Antenne organizes contemporary creation-related the steepest and most picturesque of the landscaped educational events. parks was inaugurated. in the interval, titanic work Place Hannah-arendt. corner of rue des alouettes was carried out using dynamite to terrace and and the rue de carducci (19th). reshape the landscape, creating waterfalls, a lake, m° buttes-chaumont. tel: 01 76 21 13 41. a grotto with fake stalactites, and an island of rocks Wed to Fri: 2pm-7pm. sat, sun: 12-noon-8pm. 30-metres-high, crowned with the fanciful little Free (except events). temple of Sibyls. from here, there are sweeping www.fracidf-leplateau.com 81 sUrroUnDinG area seine-saint-Denis

Just north-east of Paris the seine-saint-Denis area possesses many treasures. there is 1 5 2 4 something for all tastes: sporting adventures, 3 relaxing shopping, a full programme of artistic events, great outings with the family. Paris take your pick! 10 km

1 Basilique cathédrale 4 cité du cinéma de saint-Denis PMP Located in the former Saint-Denis power plant with The basilica is a cradle of Gothic architecture. its distinctive 1930s art deco style, the Cité brings A royal abbey in the Middle Ages, it became the together of all aspects of film-making, from official burial place for Merovingian aristocrats, script-writing to distribution, sets and shooting, etc. then Carolingian and Capetian kings. from its illustrious past, the basilica retains a unique ensemble of recumbent statues and more than 70 sculpted tombs, including those of Clovis, françois i and Catherine de Medicis, etc. 1 rue de la Légion-d’Honneur. 93200 saint-Denis. m° basilique de saint-Denis. tel: 01 48 09 83 54. From 1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6.15pm. From 1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5.15pm. closed: 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec. 20 rue ampère. 93210 saint-Denis. €7.50 – rr: €4.50. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. m° carrefour Pleyel. tel: 01 49 15 98 98. www.monuments-nationaux.fr €15. visits upon res. on www.tourisme93.com

2 Musée de l’air et de l’espace PMP 5 stade de france 150 planes bring the alive The stadium boasts 6 hectares of roofing, 45 km for you, from the epic adventures of Louis Blériot, of terraces and 9,000 m2 of turf, and hosts a round or Saint-Exupéry to the high-tech Mirage and Ariane of sporting events, concerts and shows. A visit rockets. Climb aboard a Boeing 747 or Concorde. and museum trail recount all these great moments, aéroport de Paris – . 93350 Le bourget. the behind-the-scenes and public areas. rer b Le bourget. tel: 01 49 92 70 00. 93216 saint-Denis-la-Plaine. m° saint-Denis - contact for opening times. closed: mon. Porte de Paris. tel: 0 892 700 900 (€0.34/min). Free (except exhibitions). www.museedelair.org 10am-6pm. tours daily, except during events (from 1 sept to 31 mar; closed: mon): 10am-5pm. access gate g. contact for times. 3 Puces de Paris-saint-ouen €15 – rr: €10/€12. Under 5s: free. www.stadefrance.com The flea market brings together more than 1,700 second-hand and antique dealers spread over 14 markets and the surrounding streets, and attracts several million visitors each year for its inimitable atmosphere and the quality of its old furniture, contact faience, bronzes, records and other unusual objects Seine-Saint-Denis Tourisme for bargain hunters! 140 av. Jean-Lolive. m° Porte de clignancourt, garibaldi. 93695 Pantin cedex. tel: 01 40 12 32 58. tel: 01 49 15 98 98. sat: 9am-6pm. sun: 10am-6pm. mon: 11am-5pm. [email protected] www.tourisme93.com

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PeoPle’s PARiS do notshake –thecocktail isself-activating! high-spirited d glean someglamrock, jungle, disco remix, seats and thesoftlightingofinner-rooms and plush sofas, silver dance floors, moleskin wall wi-fi, fruitjuice, andmake-up. seasonwith showrooms andfashionable spots, soupstores, and tapas, oneafter theother. sprinkle with Brazil, lemon, cane sugar, Cap Vert, salsa finally, thelast third: spice withapinchof powder andcanons. r to thestatue withits Phrygian bonnetat and chantingfrom thecolumn attheBastille next, take aparade ofdemonstrators marching the first third. merchants, andmatchstick sellers –andthat’s oldtime trades –boiler makers, scrap-metal rue delaMain-d’or, someshinysouvenirs of sandwich andliqueurs from apre-war cafe on the cupolaofCirque d’hiver. throw ina t oompahpah-pahs ofthefiremen’s Ball. Mix accordion, amusette waltz andthe ake atightrope walker inmidairfrom under épublique. incorporate several revolutions, Js, andalternative labels. • Père-lachaise (20th) • oberkampf (11th) • Bastille (11th) • r épublique (10th) R. D R. R. SORBIERE LA

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Calvaire RUE RUE ST LE CIMETIÈRE DU R. DE TURENNE St-Ambroise SAINT HÔTEL MP ST-SÉBASTIEN TE DE - St-Sébastien- BD VO PÈRE LACHAISE DU Richard RUE DU CHEMIN-MAUR VER LA GAÎTÉ ROHAN - Froissart Lenoir ANT ILLE LYRIQUE E MUSÉE LT AIRE

PICASSO BDBEAUMARCHAIS T RUE VI PL. LÉON R UE BLUM RUE LÉON FROT B A OU D Philippe- L E VENUE PHILIPPE AUGUSTEV S Chemin Vert Voltaire A FR RUE BRÉGUET Auguste Peo P le’s RUE DU CHEMIN VER RICHARD LENOI R ANC D Alexandre RUE DE RIVOLI S RUE SEDAINE BOUR Bréguet- Dumas GE RUE R. F OIS Sabin D . MI E RO PLACE DES N BD RICHARD LENOIR

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-A N Bastille C TO NE Charonne H SEINE IN ON BD VO Rue des E DE CH AR A RUE Boulets R LT O R. F N VENUE LEDRU ROLLIN AIRE STE-MARGUERITE N ÎLE R A . D AIDHERBE E BD HENRI IV U ST-LOUIS Sully-Morland FB G S E T-A NTO Ledru Rollin INE BIBLIOTHÈQUE BASSIN

DE L’ARSENAL DE L'ARSENAL 250 m

Gambetta (lines 3, 3 bis) • Filles du Calvaire (line 8) • RueH Saint-Maur (line 3) • Voltaire (line 9) • Parmentier (line 3) Don’t Miss

Place de la Bastille opéra Bastille Place de la république opéra national de Paris The square’s huge dimensions inaugurated in Place Bastille were drawn up in 1854, at on 14 July 1989, it has brought the convergence of the new ballets and orchestras to the Haussmanian boulevards. industrial East, to form the opéra its creation severed the boulevard national de Paris in tandem du Temple from its most lively with the Palais Garnier. This section, nicknamed the ‘boulevard in the 14th century, an eight- imposing building by Carlos ott of crime’ in reference to the towered fortress was built here has a modern elegance about it: melodramas played out in to defend the royal city. However, state-of-the-art acoustics and its many theatres. Among the city quickly expanded and the technology, integrated décor the allegories of Liberty, Bastille lost its military role. it and costume workshops, etc. Equality and Fraternity, a nine became a prison with dank, dark Performances or guided visits and a half metre-high bronze cells. Six hundred rioters, mostly provide the perfect opportunity Marianne was erected at the from the faubourg Saint-Antoine, to marvel at the blue granite, centre of the square. Since its stormed it on 14 July 1789, and pear wood from China, and makeover in 2013, young and old at the cost of one hundred deaths, 2,745 black velvet seats in the have appropriated the new-look they set free … six prisoners. great auditorium, the Monde square as a place to have fun, The fortress was demolished by niki de Saint Phalle and relax and party. soon afterwards, and the legend Jean Tinguely at the bottom built. in the centre of the square, of the central staircase. the Colonne de Juillet, crowned Place de la bastille (12th). by a winged figure of Liberty, m° bastille. commemorates the revolutionary tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (€0.34/min). days of 1830 that also set alight www.operadeparis.fr this rebellious neighbourhood.

85 cimetière Countesses, black cats, Gothic did you know? du Père-lachaise chapels and famous people – Apollinaire, Chopin, Colette, in May 1871, at the end of This huge ‘city of the dead’ owes Éluard, Kardec (the father of Bloody Week, the Communard its name to Père de La Chaise, Spiritism), Jim Morrison, Musset, rebels from working class the confessor of Louis XiV, who Piaf, Proust, oscar Wilde … weave areas, entrenched in the lived on this hill. opened in 1804, a thousand tales that will capture cemetery, launched their last the cemetery retained the little your imagination and set you offensive on Versaillais. pathways, undulating topography, dreaming. The 147 survivors were shot lime trees and chestnut trees onsite and thrown into a ditch. of the former Jesuit domain. Around the federalists wall, But that did not entice Parisian several monuments? – built families to bury their dead in this with stones from the original disreputable area. it took the walls – pay tribute to the transfer of Héloïse and Abélard, victims of nazi concentration and Molière and La fontaine in camps. 1817 to reverse the trend. from then onwards, a fashionable craze 16 rue du repos (20th). was to transform it into a mossy m° Père Lachaise. hillside museum of funerary art. Daily, except public hols. DiscoVer areas for fashion and streets Pavillon de l’arsenal for partying information, documentation and around bastille exhibition centre for urban design and in rue de Charonne and rue Keller, the shop architecture in Paris and Metropolitan windows of fashion designers vie with each other Paris in colour: orange, turquoise blue, candy pink ... the neighbourhood is also a favourite of neo-punk Lolitas, fans of vintage, mangas and tattooing. At the end of the day, bars ring the bell for ‘happy hour’. Towards rue de la Roquette, there is a concentrated cocktail of Latino apéro bars, pulsing restaurants, lounge cafes and euphoric dance floors. The permanent exhibition Metropolitan Paris and its projects is a multimedia, bilingual display that’s also suitable for children. images, landmarks, interactive terminals, and a giant computerized model present the capital from the origins of the city to projects for the future. The decor on the first floor changes … three times a year! Under the aegis of architectural experts, the centre adapts completely to the theme a few steps away from république exhibited. And as it is always a fine show, visitors The bustling crossroads of rue oberkampf and rue enjoy prolonging their visit in the bookshop. Saint-Maur, as well as rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 21 bd sully-morland (4th). teem with big crowded bistros and bars with live m° sully - morland, bastille. tel: 01 42 76 33 97. music and with dancing. in this little area, you’ll find tues to sat: 10.30am-6.30pm. sun: 11am-7pm. music and everything you could want to nibble, sip, admission free. www.pavillon-arsenal.com whistle and mix right through the night.

86 faUBoUrG Sacred, diabolic, and refined, the history of smoking saint-antoine is recounted through short briar pipes, rustic snuff boxes, Chinese opium pipes, and posters by Mucha. this has been a traditional area for woodworking 7 rue Pache (11th). m° voltaire. tel: 01 46 59 05 51. i S PAR crafts since the 15th century! Furniture shops Daily: 12.30-7pm, except sun, 1 may, 8 may are still scattered along rue du Faubourg- and 25 Dec. Free. www.museedufumeur.net saint-antoine. in and around a maze of poetic names – the Étoile d’or and bel air courtyards, la Maison rouge – fondation the alleyways of cheval blanc and bonne graine antoine-de-Galbert – lacquerers, gilders and upholsterers carry

Contemporary art collector Antoine de Galbert set up Peo P le’s savoir faire. on traditional some of the the headquarters of his foundation in a former factory. workshops are now occupied by new He named it maison (house) so people would feel professions under the old shop signs. at home. it offers three major monographic or thematic exhibitions each year, complemented la Gaîté lyrique with talks, a bookshop and a restaurant. 10 bd de la bastille (12th). m° bastille, gare de Lyon. The Gaîté lyrique explores digital culture in all its tel: 01 40 01 08 81. Wed to sun: 11am-7pm. forms: music, cinema, theatre, dance, the visual arts, thurs: open until 9pm. 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec: closed. design, etc., through a varied and eclectic programme €8 – rr: €50. Under 13s: free. of concerts, shows, film screenings and talks. www.lamaisonrouge.org

la Dalle aux chapiteaux A short walk from the Jardin Serge Gainsbourg, the circus arts have moved into the Porte des Lilas, 3 bis rue Papin (3rd). m° réaumur - sébastopol. an area undergoing urban redevelopment. A circus Wed to sat: 2pm-8pm. sun: 12pm-6pm. school offers classes for adults and children and tues: late night opening until 10pm. closed: mon. shows are also held here. Have a look at their www.gaite-lyrique.net. see p. 97. programme! Place du maquis du vercors (20th). m° Porte des Lilas. Marché d’aligre tel: 09 54 54 47 24. www.mairie20.paris.fr Already in the 18th century, the market supplied the faubourg Saint-Antoine with vegetables and pork products. it is one of the most lively la Maison des métallos and mouth-watering markets. The covered Beauveau city of Paris cultural establishment market boasts regional products like tomatoes originally a musical instrument factory, then the from Provence, beef from the Limousin, goats’ cheese headquarters of the CGT national federation of from the Charolais, and much more. The surrounding Metal Workers Unions, the Maison des métallos has outdoor market offers shellfish and seafood, exotic been transformed into a venue dedicated to artistic products, second-hand goods, light-hearted songs, practices dealing with social issues or topics. and fruit and flowers at unbeatable prices at the end 94 rue Jean-Pierre-timbaud (11th). m° couronnes. of the morning. tel: 01 47 00 25 20. €14 – rr: €10/€5. rue d’aligre and place d’aligre (12th). www.maisondesmetallos.org m° Ledru-rollin. tues to Fri: 7.30am-1.30pm. sat and sun: 7.30am-2.30pm. Pavillon de l’ermitage

Musée du fumeur The only Regency-style Parisian folly, built by the Duchess of orléans, the daughter of Louis XiV. from the cigars of the Maya gods to peace pipes, from 148 rue de bagnolet (20th). m° Porte de bagnolet. Dutch smoking dens to oriental hookas, the smoking tel: 01 40 24 15 95. contact for opening times. museum presents a practice as old as mankind. €3 – rr: €2. www.pavillondelermitage.com

87 siGHtseeinG in ÎLE-DE-FRAnCE and entertainment allyear round. has somethingfor everyone withthemeparks attract anever larger public. andtheregion events andfestivals, music,dance andtheatre the banks oftheMarne.itisstill aplace for art. other noless-famous painters passed along at Chatou, Van goghatauvers-sur-oise, and of Paris. f painters luminouslandscapes ontheoutskirts in the19thcentury, steam trains offered for theeyes. or artistic, these tripsare always adelight garden water features. whetherhistoric of stucco, intricate hedgingandelaborate a tapestry ofbrickandslate titles, interlacing the Île-de-f Île-de-f behind for amomentto visitthesurrounding t empted byanexcursion? thenleave Paris 78 95 92 92 91 rance region. withnineroyal towns, 93 94 Paris ollow them!r rance isalandofchateaux – 77 • Val-d’oise (95) • Val-de-Marne (94) • seine-aint-denis(93) • hauts-de-seine (92) • essonne (91) • yvelines (78) • seine-et-Marne(77) enoir setuphiseasel RA n CE -F DE - Î LE

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Don’t Miss

Reine (a mock farm), the Petit château did you know? de Versailles + PMP Trianon, the dairy, an English garden, and more. The inventory A visit to Versailles is more of the chateau’s treasures is than just a visit to the innumerable, and extends to the chateau … Special events french-style gardens designed and shows are also on by Le nôtre and the Grand Trianon the agenda: Grandes Eaux built for Madame de Maintenon. Musicales, Grandes Eaux rP 834. 78000 versailles. nocturnes, contemporary art tel: 01 30 83 78 00. exhibitions … not forgetting This symbol of the absolute power Daily except mon, 1 Jan, 1 may, the Bartabas Equestrian and glory of Louis XiV was nothing Show Academy!? 25 Dec and official ceremonies. more than a ‘modest hunting 1 apr to 31 oct: 9am-6.30pm. lodge’ built for Louis Xiii, until 1 nov to 31 mar: 9am-5.30pm. château de Louis XiV had it renovated in 1661 two-day pass: chateau and park fontainebleau PMP by his architect Le Vau. Still not and gardens: €25 in high sufficiently grand, the Sun King fond of hunting here, the kings and low seasons. commissioned further extensions of france built a manor house, €30 during the grandes eaux and embellishments, notably which was embellished by musicales or Jardins the Grand Appartement du Roi, thirty-four successive kings musicaux days in high season. and the fabulous Hall of Mirrors. over eight centuries, to become chateau: €15 – rr: €13 The Queen’s Bedroom can be seen the grandiose Château de (including access to temporary just as Marie-Antoinette left it in fontainebleau in the midst exhibitions). 1789. Visitors can also discover of a huge forest. Between Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. her ‘private estate’ – a haven of the Cour d’Honneur and the marie-antoinette’s estate intimacy and simplicity compared Jardin de Diane, one goes from and châteaux de trianon: to the baroque splendours of Renaissance rooms to the €10 – rr: €6. the chateau – and which includes apartment of napoleon i, from www.chateauversailles.fr the Théâtre and Hameau de la state apartments to the Chinese 89 museum of the Empress Eugénie. ballon Panoramagique did you know? ornately decorated and boasting 77777 marne-la-vallée. exceptional pieces of furniture, tel: 01 60 45 70 52. in the oise, less than one the Château de fontainebleau 1 apr to 31 oct: 9am-11pm. hour from Paris, the Chantilly is today one of the few french 1 nov to 31 mar: 10am-8pm. estate with its chateau, Musée chateaux to be entirely furnished. €12. 3-11 yrs: €6. Condé, park, gardens, grand 77300 Fontainebleau. Under 3s: free. Stables – home to the Musée tel: 01 60 71 50 70. www.panoramagique.com vivant du cheval (Horse Daily, except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may museum), etc. is open to the and 25 Dec. public and is one of the jewels apr to sept: 9.30am-6pm. of french heritage. Domaine de chantilly? PMP oct to mar: 9.30am-5pm. express €11 – rr: €9. tel: 03 44 27 31 80. Disneyland Paris Express www.chateaudefontainebleau.fr Daily, except tues. transports you to the very heart www.domainedechantilly.com of magical Disneyland® Paris for a very reasonable price. Travel château de Disneyland® Paris + on board an air-conditioned coach Vaux-le-Vicomte Share magical moments and from the Gare du nord, opéra, family fun at this park where Madeleine or Châtelet and benefit Vaux-le-Vicomte is the creation Disney works its magic all year from a fast-pass ticket allowing of three men commissioned round to give unforgettable entry to the park(s). by nicolas fouquet, financial memories. Two Disney parks® tel: 0 826 285 500 (€0.15/min) advisor to Louis XiV: landscape offer more than 50 rides and 1 park: €87 – rr: €77. gardener Le nôtre, architect attractions in imaginary worlds, 2 parks: €94 – rr: €84. Le Vau and painter and sculptor together with shows and parades www.disneylandparis-express.com Le Brun. immediatly after its for endless entertainment. With inauguration, Vaux-le-Vicomte château the lively Disney Village® full aroused the envy of the Sun King d’auvers-sur-oise of shops and restaurants, and and became an architectural the PanoraMagique air model of influence throughout for discovering the park and Europe. for a truly memorable its surroundings from the sky, experience, take the candlelit visit Disneyland® Paris is pure delight. on Saturday evenings from May 77777 marne-la-vallée. to october! rer a marne-la-vallée - chessy. 77950 maincy. tel: 01 64 14 41 90. Daily: From 9 mar to 11 nov, every tel: 0 825 305 300 (0.15 €/min). Just 30 minutes from Paris, the Daily. multimedia tour at the Château w/e in Dec and from 21 Dec www.disneylandparis.com d’Auvers ‘Voyage au temps des to 5 Jan 2014. closed: 25 Dec Parisinfo.com impressionnistes’ takes you on and 1 Jan. €16.50 – rr: €13.50. the trail of the great impressionist candlelit visit: €19.50 – painters, who marked the history rr: €17.50. of this village: Daubigny, Pissarro, Under 6s: free. garden: €8. Cézanne, Monet, Van Gogh. shuttle service from Paris rue de Léry. and melun. 95430 auvers-sur-oise. www.vaux-le-vicomte.com tel: 01 34 48 48 48. tues to sun. 1 apr to 30 sept: 10.30am-6pm. 1 oct to 31 mar: 10.30am-4.30pm. €14. 6-18 yrs: €9.90. Under 6s: free. www.chateau-auvers.fr

90 ? DiscoVer

Villa savoye PMP Daily, except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 1 and 11 nov This villa revolutionized the traditional conception of and 25 Dec. €7.50 – rr: €4.50. a house. White and smooth on a green lawn, it applies Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st sun of the month the main principles of Le Corbusier: free-standing (nov to may): free. www.monuments-nationaux.fr pillars, roof garden, free facade, and long windows. château de champs-sur-Marne PMP 82 rue de villiers. 78300 Poissy. tel: 01 39 65 01 06. Daily except mon, 1 may, 1 nov, it regularly plays host to the shooting of period 11 nov, 25 Dec to 1 Jan. From 1 mar to 30 apr, from films. This example of classic architecture boasts 1 sept to 31 oct: 10am-5pm. From 2 may to 31 aug: refined interiors: rocaille decor, fine furniture, 10am-6pm. From 2 nov to 28 Feb: 10am-1pm and as well as, painted wooden panelling by Christophe 2-5pm. €7.50 – rr: €4.50. Huet – the painter of animals admired by Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. the marquise de Pompadour. The french-style www.monuments-nationaux.fr formal gardens are wonderful. Domaine national de champs-sur-marne. Domaine de chamarande 31 rue de Paris. 77420 champs-sur-marne. invited each year to the (17th century) chateau tel: 01 60 05 24 43. and its 98-hectare landscaped park, contemporary opening hours: contact for information. creation is revealed in all its forms, with exhibitions, €7.50 – rr: €4.50. Free admission to park. dance, music and more. www.monuments-nationaux.fr 38 rue du commandant-maurice-arnoux. château de rambouillet PMP 91730 chamarande. tel: 01 60 82 52 01. Free. www.chamarande.essonne.fr Situated in the middle of a wonderful estate of woodland, water features, islands and gardens, Medieval city of the Château de Rambouillet was originally a royal residence, before attracting several french Visitors come here to admire the ramparts of presidents who organized hunting parties here the medieval city, the former capital of the counts or summer holidays. françois i, who loved to hunt of Champagne and a market town, which is today died here, Louis Xiii, like Louis XV and Louis XVi a Unesco world heritage site. one goes away dazzled (and many others …) commissioned major work by the falconry and cavalry demonstrations here. for example, the Queen’s Dairy – under and by the fantastic battles between knights. Louis XVi for Marie-Antoinette – the Ermitage office de tourisme de Provins. tel: 01 64 60 26 26. or the Shell Cottage. www.provins.net 78120 rambouillet. tel: 01 34 83 00 25. château de Maisons PMP From 1 apr to 30 sept: 9.50am-12-noon and 1.50-6pm. From 1 oct to 31 mar: 9.50am-12-noon and 1.50-5pm. Listed since 1914, this chateau, built by the architect Daily, except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 1 and 11 nov, françois Mansart between 1632 and 1646, is a model and 25 Dec. €8.50 – rr: €5.50. of the french style of architecture: magnificent Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, and 1st sun of the month facades, elegant proportions, high chimneys, etc. (nov to may): free. in 1777, the Comte d’Artois – brother of Louis XVi – www.monuments-nationaux.fr became the owner of the estate. After the Revolution, the chateau was sold and bought many times before being purchased by the State in 1905 to save it from For half-day sightseeing-trips out- demolition. side Paris – in the Hauts de-seine, 2 av. carnot. 78600 maisons-Laffitte. the val-de-marne or seine-saint- tel: 01 39 62 01 49. Denis départements – see p.65, p.76 From 16 may to 14 sept: 10am-12.30pm and 2-6pm. and p.82. From 15 sept to 15 may: 10am-12.30pm and 2-5pm.

92

aDDress BooK tips and addresses for visiting Paris à la carte.

alonG tHe Water cUltUre anD MUseUMs Don’t miss the river Seine! There are lovely long walks Museums, good to know along its banks. But even better is a boat trip on the They open at 10am, close at 5pm or 6pm, and water. for navigating the Seine and the picturesque sometimes open late one evening each week. canals in the north-east of Paris, you have a choice Most are closed on Monday or Tuesday, and on some of vessels: barges, panoramic boats, paddle boats, public holidays. for guided visits, contact museums shuttle boats, small yachts and more. You also have for information. a wide choice of tours: trips with commentaries translated into numerous languages to ensure you city of Paris museums learn everything about the history of the french capital, lunch cruises or even a candlelight dinner cruise and for those who are not keen ‘sailors’, there are some thirty or so boats and barges transformed into cafes, restaurants, discos and entertainment venues. These floating establishments welcome the public aboard for exhibitions, theatre plays, concerts … and are a complete change of scene! check out our Visiting Paris and Paris Good Art, history, literature … the City of Paris presents Food guides and visit Parisinfo.com for more the second most important collections after those of information. the State! 14 sites and museums belong to the Paris City Council: the Musées d’Art Moderne, Bourdelle, Carnavalet – histoire de Paris, Cernuschi – arts de l’Asie, Cognacq-Jay, Galliera – musée de la Mode, Vie Romantique, Zadkine, the house of Balzac, the Catacombes, the Crypte Archéologique du parvis de notre-Dame, the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc de Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris – the Musée Jean-Moulin, the Petit Palais – musée des Beaux- Arts and the house of Victor Hugo. n.B.: admission to these sites is free for everyone, sHUttle Boat + except for temporary exhibitions, the Catacombes, batobus is a transport service on the seine the Crypte de notre-Dame, and Galliera – Musée with 8 stops (tour eiffel, musée d’orsay, de la mode. saint-germain-des-Prés, notre-Dame, www.paris.fr Jardin des Plantes, Hôtel de ville, Louvre, national museums and monuments champs-Élysées). There are 37 national museums and monuments tel: 0 825 05 01 01 (€0.15/min). www.batobus.com. Daily, every 10 to 25 min in Paris, the objective of which is to enrich national depending on the season. collections, welcome the public and organize 1-day ticket: €16; under 16s: €8. temporary exhibitions. See ‘free’ opposite. 2-consecutive-day ticket: €18; under 16s: €9. see the complete list of national museums and monuments on Parisinfo.com, rubric ‘visit’. 94 free other parks and gardens to discover: Jardins The permanent collections of national museums d’Éole – champions of ecology –, Luxembourg and and monuments are free for young Europeans aged Acclimatation, with their play areas for children 18 to 25 as well for currently employed french (see p.50 and 61), Atlantique on the roof of the teachers. The places concerned are indicated in this Montparnasse train station (see p.51), the busy les guide. Admission is free on the first Sunday of each Halles (see p.33) or the tranquillity of Palais-Royal month at national museums. And free all the time (see p.37), the Jardin des Plantes and its zoo for under 18s, art history students, journalists and (see p.25), the hothouses at Auteuil (see p.64), teachers (www.rmn.fr). on presentation of proof of Trocadéro with its fountains (see p.55), etc. status, reductions or free admission will be given to BooK aDDress young people aged under 18, or under 26, students, VÉliB’ or aUtoliB’? disabled people, unemployed people, teachers, etc. Contact each site for details. Why not take the plunge and get around like a Parisian? Depending on your whim, Paris Museum Pass + choose one of the 23,500 self-service This pass gives you free and unlimited access bicycles available 24/7, provided by the without having to queue to over 60 museums Paris city council, and cycle through the and monuments in Paris and the Paris region city and its surrounding suburbs at your (except temporary exhibitions). Three different passes own pace. another option is to rent one (2, 4 or 6 consecutive days for €42, €56 or €69) of the self-service, fully-electric cars are on sale at the Paris Convention and Visitors available in Paris and the 46 towns of Bureau, on Parisinfo.com, Book rubric, the Île-de-France region. and at participating sites (www.parismuseumpass.fr). www.velib.paris.fr The places included in the pass are indicated in www.autolib.eu this guide by the pictogram PMP Pedestrianized areas oUtDoor citY life These traffic-free areas are great favourites with pedestrians. The main pedestrian thoroughfares are Public gardens, parks rues Daguerre (14th), de Lappe (9th), de Lévis (17th), and woods Mouffetard (5th), Montorgueil (2nd) and cour Saint- from the small public gardens that dot each Émilion (12th). Some areas are also closed to traffic neighbourhood to the huge woods of Boulogne on Sunday and public holidays (as part of the initiative and Vincennes, one is never far from an area of ‘Paris respire’ – Paris breathes), neighbourhoods of greenery in Paris. Closed in the event of bad weather, the Sentier (2nd), Mouffetard (5th), Luxembourg (6th), parks have different opening hours which also la Roquette (11th), Montmartre (18th), rues vary according to the time of year. Some lawns are des Martyrs (9th) and Poteau (18th). prohibited to the public, and intruders are whistled off the grass by park personnel! Paris resPire (Paris ‘BreatHes’) the riverside expressways are closed to motor vehicles on sunday and public hols, from 9am to 5pm. Walkers have 11 different areas of Paris (including the bois de boulogne and vincennes), as well as the voie g.-Pompidou, from the entrance to the tunnel at the tuileries (1st) to the choose your park: modern at André-Citroën, charles-de-gaulle bridge (12th), and from Bercy and Clichy-Batignolles (see p.45), romantic the entrance quai a.-France (7th) to the exit at Bagatelle (see p.62), Monceau (see p.71) and quai branly (7th). Montsouris (see p.52), the lively parc de la Villette www.paris.fr (see p.79) and Parc floral de Paris (see p.73) …

95 in the sky aquarium tropical Paris and its surrounding areas can also be admired Palais de la Porte-Dorée (12th). from a height! Experience a memorable moment See p.75. aboard a helicopter, airship, air balloon, or the Jardin d’acclimatation simulator of a Boeing 737. Admire the layout of the Bois de Boulogne (16th). capital’s main avenues connecting its most beautiful See p.61. monuments, the grey zinc roofs, the green spaces, the curve of the Seine ... the spectacle is a truly ménagerie du Jardin des plantes amazing one. And you’ll want to fly again over See p.25. the chateaux in the Paris region, the Hurepoix region Parc zoologique de Paris or the Chevreuse Valley. See p.73. check out our Visiting Paris guide and visit Parisinfo.com for more information. on the outskirts of Paris aquarium sea Life rollerBlaDinG triPs Centre commercial international Val-d’Europe. 14 cours du Danube/Les Terrasses. every week, free skating trips are organized 77700 Serris. RER A Val-d’Europe. in the capital. the rando-rollers on sunday Tel: 01 60 42 33 66. Daily: 10am-5.30pm. €17.50. is for families and beginners and starts Under 12s: €13.90. Under 3s: free. www.sealife.fr from Place de la bastille at 2.30pm Discover the richness of marine life and the (www.rollers-coquillages.org). the Friday importance of protecting it. evening tour is more energetic and is for experienced skaters. Unless the weather Disneyland Paris + is rainy, it starts at 10pm from Place See p.90. raoul-Dautry, below the tour montparnasse, and returns around 1am Évasion verte in the morning (www.pari-roller.com). Parc floral de Paris. Esplanade du Château de Vincennes. Route du Champ de Manœuvres. theme parks, zoos, aquariums M° Château de Vincennes. Tel: 06 21 69 81 77. from 2 to 30 Mar and 1 to 26 oct: Wed, Sat, Sun, school and public hols, 12pm-4pm. from 31 Mar to 30 Sept: Wed and school hols, 12pm- 5.30pm; Sat, Sun and public hols: 10am-5.30pm. from 27 oct to 30 nov: Wed, Sat, Sun, school and public hols, 12pm-2.30pm. €16 - RR: €10/€12/€14.50. www.evasion-verte.fr in Paris forest aerial adventure park. aquaboulevard de Paris L’Île de robinson 4-6 rue Louis-Armand (15th). 50 rue du Sergent Bobillot. 93200 Montreuil. M° Balard. M° Croix de Chavaux, Vincennes. Tel: 01 40 60 10 00. Tel: 01 48 51 56 90. Daily: 7am-1am. Wed: 10am-6pm. Sat and Sun: 10am-7pm/6pm. €22/€28. 3 to 11 yrs: €15. 4 to 12 yrs: €15 (3rd child +: €12). Under 4s: €7.50. Under 3s: not allowed. Accompanying adult: €5. www.aquaboulevard.fr www.ilederobinson.com Leisure pool with water slides, saunas, Jacuzzis … on the theme of holidays and escape, this indoor for children and adults. park offers adventure games and activities.

96 Parc astérix + gaîté lyrique (La) 60128 Plailly. 3 bis rue Papin (3rd). Tel: 0 826 46 66 26 (€0.15/min). M° Reaumur - Sébastopol.

June, July, Aug: daily. www.gaite-lyrique.net K B oo Apr, May, Sept, oct, nov, Dec: contact for information. See p.87. €46 - 3 to 11 yrs: €37. Under 3s: free. La bellevilloise www.parcasterix.fr 19-21 rue Boyer (20th). An unusual mix of 32 attractions and fun shows with M° Gambetta, Ménilmontant. Tel: 01 46 36 07 07. a humorously Gallic feel. a DD ress www.labellevilloise.com Parisian niGHts olympia 28 bd des Capucines (9th). With 208 theatres and cafe-theatres, 3 opera M° opéra, Madeleine. houses, 120 show and concert halls, and the Tel: 0 892 68 33 68 (€0.34/min). conservatories and venues of associations, Paris www.olympiahall.com has a highly-charged agenda of shows and concerts, etc. All year round, artists from all over the world opéra bastille – opéra national de Paris come to perform on legendary, intimist, alternative, Place de la Bastille (12th). permanent or improvised stages. There is something M° Bastille. for everyone. revues and musicals, ballets, operas, Tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (€0.34/min). one-man comedy shows, contemporary theatre www.operadeparis.fr and more. The music is also eclectic. international See p.85. stars, rising stars or amateurs fill the stadiums, Palais garnier – auditoriums … or tiny back-rooms of local bars, for opéra national de Paris + classical or contemporary concerts. Young people Place de l’opéra (9th). also have their own programme. Circus, magic and M° opéra. puppet shows, theatre and stories for children can Tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (€0.34/min). be found everywhere, especially during the school www.operadeparis.fr holidays. See p.35. théâtre du châtelet 1 place du Chatelet (1st). Tel: 01 40 28 28 28. www.chatelet-theatre.com théâtre mogador 25 rue de Mogador (9th). M° Havre - Caumartin. Tel: 01 53 33 45 30. show and theatre venues, www.stage-entertainment.fr and circuses théâtre national de chaillot cirque national alexis gruss 1 place du Trocadéro (16th). Carrefour des Cascades. Porte de Passy (16th). Tel: 01 53 65 30 00. M° . www.theatre-chaillot.fr Tel: 01 45 01 71 26. www.alexis-gruss.com théâtre de la ville 2 place du Châtelet (4th). cité de la musique M° Châtelet, Les Halles. 221 av. Jean-Jaurès (19th). Tel: 01 42 74 22 77. M° Porte de Pantin. www.theatredelaville-paris.com Tel: 01 44 84 44 84. www.cite-musique.fr See p.80.

97 Zénith Penthouse club 211 av. Jean-Jaures (19th). 13-15 rue de Berri (8th). M° Porte de Pantin. M° George V. www.zenith-paris.com Tel: 01 53 53 86 00. www.thepenthouseclubparis.com cabarets Zèbre de belleville (Le) 63 bd de Belleville (11th). M° Belleville. Tel: 01 43 55 55 55. www.lezebre.com

Jazz

crazy Horse Paris (Le) + 12 av. George-V (8th). M° Alma - Marceau, George V. Rés : 01 47 23 32 32. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com Le Double Fond, le café-théâtre de la magie 1 pl du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th). M° Saint-Paul. Tel: 01 42 71 40 20. caveau de la Huchette (Le) www.doublefond.com 5 rue de la Huchette (5th). M° Saint-Michel. Lido de Paris (Le) + Tel: 01 43 26 65 05. 116 bis av. des Champs-Élysées (8th). www.caveaudelahuchette.fr M° George V. Tel: 01 40 76 56 10. Duc des Lombards (Le) www.lido.fr 42 rue des Lombards (1st). See p.68. M° Châtelet. Tel: 01 42 33 22 88. moulin rouge (Le)® + www.ducdeslombards.com 82 bd de Clichy (18th). M° Blanche. new morning (Le) Tel: 01 53 09 82 82. 7-9 rue des Petites-Écuries (10th). www.moulinrouge.com M° Château d’Eau. See p.42. Tel: 01 45 23 51 41. www.newmorning.com mugler Follies Le comédia Petit Journal montparnasse (Le) 4 bd de Strasbourg (10th). 13 rue du Commandant-René-Mouchotte (14th). M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis. M° Montparnasse - Bienvenue. Tel: 01 42 38 22 22. Tel: 01 43 21 56 70. www.theatrecomedia.fr www.petitjournalmontparnasse.com Paradis Latin (Le) + Petit Journal saint-michel (Le) 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th). 71 bd Saint-Michel (5th). M° Cardinal Lemoine. M° Cluny - La Sorbonne. Tel: 01 43 25 28 28. Tel: 01 43 26 28 59. www.paradislatin.com See p.26.

98 Programme and tickets Discos Programmes of events are given in the general and cultural press, and by the Pariscope and the

L’Officiel des spectacles. Tickets can be purchased K B oo at ticket desks at the venue on the day of the show, or, preferably, in advance. Tickets may also be purchased from specialist agencies, from the fnac or even on Parisinfo.com, Book rubric. The bimonthly Paris-Mômes (free supplement with the Libération newspaper) lists entertainment for children. a DD ress fans of house and techno, as well as tango, mambo cultival and disco will find clubs for dancing from 11pm 42 rue des Jeûneurs (2nd). to dawn, in atmospheres that cover all the ranges: M° Bourse. select, off-beat, musette, electric, tropical, etc. Tel: 0 825 05 44 05 (€0.15/min). Many nightclubs organise theme nights, or afternoon www.cultival.fr dances that are sometimes free for ladies. idéal cabaret A few addresses: 132 av. de Villiers (17th). arc Paris (L’) M° Pereire. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th). Tel: 01 45 72 07 14. M° Charles de Gaulle - Étoile. www.idealcabaret.fr Tel: 01 45 00 78 70. Paris eventicket www.larc-paris.com Tel: 0 811 720 604. showcase www.pariseventicket.com Port des Champs-Élysées. Under the pont Alexandre iii. Bars M° Champs-Élysées – Clemenceau. There are ‘lounge’ atmospheres and velvet settees, Tel: 01 45 26 04 58. the lively irish pubs, bars of top hotels, live music www.showcase.fr performances and more. Except in the case of special dispensation, bars close at 2am in the morning. bus Palladium information at Parisinfo.com, going out rubric. 6 rue fontaine (9th). M° Blanche. Tel: 01 45 26 80 35. ParisniGHtlife.fr www.lebuspalladium.com in Paris, the night belongs to those who machine du moulin rouge (La) go to bed late! Parisnightlife.fr, devised by 90 bd de Clichy (18th). the Paris city council in collaboration with M° Blanche. the federation of cabarets and night clubs, Tel: 01 53 41 88 89. is a unique bilingual (French-english) www.lamachinedumoulinrouge.com information resource about the Paris nightlife scene. it combines a map-guide – Gay discos and bars available at art, music and entertainment Paris is an open and tolerant city, where everyone venues, the Paris convention and visitors can be themselves. There is a vast number of gay bureau information centres, train stations, or gay-friendly addresses, often situated around youth hostels, etc. – and an innovative Châtelet, the Hôtel de Ville, and especially in the website, www.parisnightlife.fr, offering Marais district. multiple search criteria (dates, hours, information at Parisinfo.com, going out arrondissement, type of music and or Practical Paris rubric. public …) and a map of places and events for nightlife in the capital. everything you need to know about Parisian nightlife at your fingertips!

99 cinema GettinG aroUnD Paris loves cinema and film shoots regularly take Paris Visit card place in the streets and apartments of the capital. The capital has almost 110 cinemas. in addition to Paris Visite is a travel card, valid for 1, 2, 3 or mainstream films, many cinemas screen art-house 5 consecutive days, to visit Paris and its surrounding films, documentaries and films for children. areas by metro, bus, RER and mainline trains as far as Disneyland® Paris, Versailles and airports (depending on the validity of the card). More than €100 worth of discounts and special offers. on sale in all metro/RER/mainline SnCf train stations, Paris airports and the PCVB. www.ratp.fr or Parisinfo.com Métro – rer The Paris metro system, operated by the RATP, is made up of 14 lines, each identified by a number, artistic creation colour and start/end destinations. The RER (Réseau You’ll find artistic design everywhere in Paris. Express Régional), comprising lines A, B, C, D and E, not just in museums but in haute couture, design, serves Paris and the surrounding region. These trains jewellery, objects and works of art – all very much link up with the urban metro network and certain in the present. The capital of fashion is a breeding SnCf lines. The ‘ticket t+’ (€1.70) allows you to ground for young stylists. This avant-garde current make a journey by metro and bus and take certain runs through the area in and around Place des connections within a time limit of 1hr30. Tickets Victoires, Palais-Royal, and in the Marais. Discover can be purchased at RATP stations and certain contemporary creation at one of the seasonal tobacconists. outside zone 2, the RER is subject fashion events (the Biennale de Paris, the festivals to a different pricing system. d’automne et Émergences, the fiac, the mois de la tel: 3246 (€0.34/min). www.ratp.fr photographie, etc.). But also in galleries, specialist Bus markets, museums of course, art foundations (la Maison rouge, les foundations EDf-electra, Bus lines are numbered and operate from 6.30am to Cartier, etc.), cultural centres: Swedish (rue Payenne) 8.30pm (some until 12.30am or later). over 45 night or Swiss (rue des francs-Bourgeois), the institutes: buses ‘noctilien’ operate between 12.30 and 5.30am. du Monde Arabe (Place Mohammed-V), Goethe tel: 3246 (€0.34/min). www.noctilien.fr (avenue d’iéna), finnish (rue des Écoles) or Mexican tramway (rue Vieille-du-Temple). And on a smaller scale, there are workshops, and alternative scenes like Paris and its inner suburbs are served by artists in residence as well as authorized squats, three tramlines: like the Point éphémère (quai de Valmy), the squat 1. Asnières-Gennevilliers-Les Courtilles – 59 Rivoli-Électrons libres (rue de Rivoli) or noisy-le-Sec RER. La Générale (rue du Général-Lassalle). 2. Pont de Bezons – Porte de Versailles. see the Paris Shopping Book guide and visit 3a. Pont du Garigliano – Porte de Vincennes. Parisinfo.com for more information. 3b. Porte de Vincennes – Porte de la Chapelle. taxis Taxis can be picked up from the 470 taxi ranks at stations, airports and close to main roads. if the taxi’s green light is on, this indicates that the taxi is free to be hailed. Pick-up charge: €2.50. Minimum fare: €6.60. Additional charges: each extra adult as of the 4th person (€3); luggage: €1 as of the second item in the boot. taxis g7 – www.taxisg7.fr

100 inDex each monument, theme or place mentionned is listed alphabetically.

Booksellers ...... 17 A Bourdelle (musée) ...... 51 Abbaye royale du Val-de-Grâce ...... 26 Bourse de Paris (palais Brongniart) ...... 38 Air et de l’Espace (musée de l’) ...... 82 Bridges of Paris ...... 17 along the water ...... 94 bus ...... 100 American Church (The) ...... 58 Butte-aux-Cailles (la) ...... 74 Another Paris – Le petit train bleu ...... 26 Butte Montmartre ...... 41 Aquaboulevard de Paris ...... 96 Aquarium Sea Life ...... 96 C Aquariums ...... 96 cabarets ...... 98 Arc de triomphe ...... 67 Cafes ...... 50 Architecture et du patrimoine (cité de l’) ...... 58 carnaval de Paris ...... 13 Arènes de Lutèce ...... 26 Carnavalet – histoire de Paris (musée) ...... 31 Argonaute (The) ...... 80 Cartier-Bresson (fondation Henri-) ...... 50 Armée (musée de l’) ...... 56 Cartier pour l’Art contemporain (fondation) ...... 50 Arsenal (port de l’) ...... 18 Catacombes ...... 53 Art et d’histoire du judaïsme (musée d’) ...... 32 Cenquatre (Le) ...... 79 Art moderne de la Ville de Paris (musée d’) ...... 57 Cernuschi (musée) ...... 71 artistic creation ...... 100 Champ-de-Mars ...... 55 Arts asiatiques – Guimet Champs-Élysées ...... 67 (musée national des) ...... 57 Chapelle expiatoire ...... 71 Arts décoratifs (Les) ...... 70 Château d’Auvers-sur-oise ...... 90 Arts et Métiers (musée des) ...... 31 Château de Champs-sur-Marne ...... 92 autolib’ ...... 95 Château de fontainebleau ...... 89 B Château de Maisons ...... 92 Château de Malmaison (musée du) ...... 65 Baccarat (musée) ...... 64 Château de Rambouillet ...... 92 Balzac (maison de) ...... 64 Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte ...... 90 Ballon PanoraMagique ...... 90 Château de Versailles ...... 89 Barbès (marché) ...... 46 Château de Vincennes ...... 74 bars ...... 99 Châtelet (théâtre du) ...... 31 – 97 Bassin de la Villette ...... 81 Chinatown ...... 75 Bastille ...... 85 Choco-Story – Le musée gourmand du Chocolat ...... 37 Beaubourg ...... 30 christian Lacroix (exhibition) ...... 11 Belleville ...... 80 Cimetière de Montmartre ...... 42 Bercy Village ...... 74 Cimetière du Montparnasse ...... 52 Berges de Seine ...... 18 Cimetière du Père-Lachaise ...... 86 Bibliothèque nationale – site françois-Mitterrand ....75 cinema ...... 100 Bibliothèque nationale – site Richelieu ...... 38 cinéma au clair de lune ...... 10 Bois de Boulogne ...... 61 Cinémathèque française – musée du Cinéma ...... 75 Bois de Vincennes ...... 73 101 circuses ...... 97 franc-Maçonnerie (musée de la) ...... 46 Cité de la musique ...... 80 Free ...... 95 Cité du cinéma ...... 82 french open (The) ...... 13 Cité des enfants ...... 80 frigos (Les) ...... 75 Cité des sciences et de l’industrie ...... 79 fumeur (musée du) ...... 87 Cluny (musée de) – musée national du Moyen Âge...... 24 G Cognacq-Jay (musée) ...... 33 Gainsbourg (Maison de Serge) ...... 52 Comédie-française ...... 37 Gaîté lyrique (La) ...... 87 – 97 Conciergerie ...... 22 gardens ...... 95 Covered Arcades ...... 36 gay discos and bars ...... 99 culture and museums ...... 94 Géode (The) ...... 80 getting around ...... 100 D Gobelins, de Beauvais et de la Savonnerie Dalle aux chapiteaux (La) ...... 87 (manufacture nationale des) ...... 74 Dapper (musée) ...... 62 Grand Palais ...... 69 David bowie is (exhibition) ...... 13 grand Prix d’amérique ...... 12 Delacroix (musée Eugène-) ...... 51 Grévin ...... 37 Disabled people ...... 9 Guimard (facades) ...... 64 Discos ...... 99 Disneyland® Paris ...... 90 – 96 H Disneyland Paris Express ...... 90 Halle Saint-Pierre – Art Brut – Art Singulier – Docks, Cité de la mode et du design (Les) ...... 17 Art contemporain Populaire ...... 46 Domaine de Chamarande ...... 92 Halles (forum des) ...... 33 Domaine de Chantilly ...... 90 Harcourt Paris (Studio) ...... 69 Domaine départemental de Sceaux ...... 65 Hauts-de-seine area ...... 65 Domaine national de Saint-Cloud ...... 65 Herbe (musée en) ...... 38 Hippodrome d’Auteuil ...... 61 Hippodrome de Longchamp ...... 61 E Histoire naturelle (Muséum national d’) ...... 25 Égouts de Paris (Les) ...... 58 Homme (musée de l’) ...... 57 Eiffel Tower ...... 55 Hôtel de Ville ...... 30 Érotisme (musée de l’) ...... 45 Hugo (maison de Victor) ...... 29 Espace Dalí ...... 42 Étoiles du Rex (Les) – Grand Rex (Le) ...... 37 I Évasion verte ...... 96 Île-de-France ...... 65 – 76 – 82 – 88 Events ...... 10 Île de la Cité ...... 21 events programme ...... 99 Île de Robinson (L’) ...... 96 Exploradôme ...... 76 Île Saint-Louis ...... 21 illuminations ...... 12 F ...... 51 ferme de Paris ...... 73 institut du monde arabe ...... 24 Fête nationale (bastille Day) ...... 10 invalides (hôtel des) ...... 56 Fête du 70e anniversaire in the sky ...... 96 de la Libération de Paris (70th anniversary of the Liberation of Paris) ...... 10 Foire de Paris ...... 13 J Foire du trône ...... 13 Jacquemart-André (musée) ...... 70 Fondation Louis vuitton ...... 11 Jardin Atlantique ...... 51 fragonard (Perfume museums) ...... 38 Jardin d’Acclimatation ...... 61 – 95 – 96 fragonard – École Vétérinaire Jardin de l’Hôtel Matignon ...... 52 de Maisons-Alfort (musée) ...... 76 Jardin des Halles ...... 33

102 Jardin des plantes ...... 25 Ménilmontant ...... 81 Jardin des serres d’Auteuil ...... 64 metro ...... 100 – 106 Jardin des Tuileries ...... 68 Mode et du Textile (musée de la) ...... 70

Jardin du Luxembourg ...... 50 Mona Bismarck American Center in D ex Jardin sauvage Saint-Vincent ...... 44 for art & culture ...... 62 Jardin Tino-Rossi ...... 18 mondial de l’automobile (Paris motor show) ...... 11 Jazz ...... 98 Monnaie de Paris ...... 53 Jeff Koons (exhibition) ...... 11 Montmartre and jardins Renoir (musée de) ...... 44 Jourdain (quartier) ...... 81 Moreau (musée Gustave-) ...... 44 Journées européennes du patrimoine Moulin de la Galette ...... 45 (european Heritage Days) ...... 11 Moulin Radet ...... 45 Junot (avenue) ...... 46 Moulin Rouge® ...... 42 – 98 Mouzaïa (quartier de la) ...... 81 K museums ...... 94 Kahn (Albert-), departmental museum and gardens ..65 musique (fête de la) ...... 10 Kiosque Théâtre (Le) (the Theatre Kiosk) ...... 9 Musique (musée de la) ...... 80 L N La Villette ...... 79 nautic, salon nautique de Paris Le Corbusier (fondation) ...... 64 (Paris nautical Fair) ...... 12 Léandre (villa) ...... 46 niki de saint Phalle (exhibition) ...... 11 Lettres et Manuscrits (musée des) ...... 51 nissim-de-Camondo (musée) ...... 70 Libération (musée de l’ordre de la) ...... 56 noctilien ...... 100 Lido de Paris ...... 68 – 98 nouvel an chinois (chinese new Year) ...... 12 Louvre (musée du) ...... 68 notre-Dame de Paris ...... 21 Luxembourg (musée du) ...... 50 nuit blanche (sleepless night) ...... 11 nuit des musées (museum night) ...... 13 M MAC/VAL ...... 76 O Madeleine (église de la) ...... 36 observatoire de Paris ...... 53 Magie (musée de la Curiosité et de la) ...... 33 odéon ...... 50 Maillol (musée) – fondation Dina-Vierny ...... 58 opéra Bastille – opéra national de Paris ...... 85 Maison des Jardies – musée Léon Gambetta ...... 65 orangerie (musée de l’) ...... 69 Maison des métallos (La) ...... 87 orsay (musée d’) ...... 49 Maison Rouge – ourcq Canal ...... 81 fondation Antoine de Galbert ...... 87 outdoor city life ...... 95 Manège 1913...... 56 Manoir de Paris ...... 81 P marathon de Paris ...... 13 Palais Bourbon (Assemblée nationale) ...... 70 marcel Duchamp (exhibition) ...... 11 Palais de la Découverte ...... 71 Marché d’Aligre ...... 87 Palais de la Porte-Dorée – Musée de l’histoire marchés de noël (christmas markets) ...... 12 de l’immigration – Aquarium tropical ...... 75 – 96 Marché international de Rungis ...... 76 Palais de Tokyo – contemporary creation ...... 57 Marine (musée national de la) ...... 58 Palais Galliera – musée de la Mode Marmottan-Monet (musée) ...... 62 de la Ville de Paris ...... 58 Marne River bends ...... 76 Palais Garnier – opéra national de Paris ...... 35 – 97 Maxim’s (musée) ...... 38 Palais-Royal ...... 37 Médaille-Miraculeuse (chapelle Panthéon ...... 22 notre-Dame-de-la-) ...... 53 Panthéon bouddhique ...... 57 Mémorial du maréchal Leclerc de Hautecloque Paradis Latin ...... 26 – 98 et de la Libération de Paris – musée Jean Moulin .....52 Parc Astérix ...... 97 Ménagerie du Jardin des plantes ...... 25 – 96

103 Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin-Luther-King ...... 45 Promotrain ...... 44 Parc de Bagatelle ...... 62 Provins (medieval city of) ...... 92 Parc de la Villette ...... 79 Publicité (musée de la) ...... 70 Parc des Buttes-Chaumont ...... 81 Puces de Paris-Saint-ouen ...... 82 Parc floral de Paris ...... 73 Pyramide du Louvre ...... 68 Parc Georges-Brassens ...... 52 Parc Monceau ...... 71 Q ...... 52 Quai Branly (musée du) ...... 56 Parc zoologique de Paris ...... 73 – 96 Quartier des Batignolles ...... 45 Paris city Passport ...... 7 Quartier latin ...... 22 Paris convention and visitors bureau ...... 7 Paris face cachée ...... 12 R Paris Jazz Festival...... 10 République ...... 86 Paris museum Pass ...... 95 rer ...... 100 Paris Photo ...... 11 Rodin (musée national) ...... 56 Paris Plages (Paris beaches) ...... 10 Roland-Garros (stade) – Tennis (Musée Paris respire (Paris ‘breathes’) ...... 95 de la fédération française de Tennis Paris Story ! ...... 38 and behind-the-scenes tour ...... 13 – 62 Paris visit card ...... 100 rollerblading trips ...... 96 Parisian nights ...... 97 Roseraie du Val de Marne ...... 76 Parisnightlife.fr ...... 99 Rue de Passy ...... 64 Parks ...... 95 Rue Mouffetard ...... 26 Pavillon de l’Arsenal ...... 86 Pavillon de l’Ermitage ...... 87 S Pavillons de Bercy (Les) ...... 75 Sacré-Cœur (basilique du) ...... 41 Pedestrianized areas ...... 95 Saint-Antoine (faubourg) ...... 87 Petit Palais (musée des Beaux-arts Saint-Denis (basilique cathédrale) ...... 82 de la Ville de Paris) ...... 69 Saint-Eustache (église) ...... 32 Petite Ceinture ...... 53 Saint-Germain-des-Prés ...... 49 Photographie (Maison europénne de la) ...... 33 Saint-Laurent (fondation Pierre-Bergé – Yves-) ...... 64 Picasso (musée) ...... 30 Saint-Martin Canal ...... 80 Pigalle ...... 42 Saint-Sulpice (église) ...... 52 Pinacothèque de Paris ...... 38 Sainte-Chapelle ...... 22 Place de la Bastille ...... 85 Sainte-Geneviève ...... 26 Place de la Concorde ...... 68 sales ...... 12 Place de la Contrescarpe ...... 26 salon de l’agriculture (agriculture show) ...... 12 Place de la Madeleine ...... 35 salon du livre (book Fair) ...... 13 Place de la République ...... 85 seine-saint-Denis area ...... 82 Place Denfert-Rochereau ...... 53 Sèvres – Cité de la céramique ...... 65 Place des Abbesses ...... 45 Shoah (mémorial de la) ...... 32 Place des Victoires ...... 36 shopping ...... 32 Place des Vosges ...... 29 show and theatre venues ...... 97 Place du Châtelet ...... 31 shuttle boat ...... 94 Place du Tertre ...... 42 six nations championship ...... 12 Place Vendôme ...... 36 squares ...... 95 Plans-Reliefs (musée des) ...... 56 Square du Vert-Galant ...... 18 Plateau – centre d’art contemporain (le) ...... 81 Square des Batignolles ...... 45 Pompidou (Centre) ...... 29 Stade de france ...... 82 Poupée (musée de la) ...... 33 Sully (hôtel de) ...... 31 Printemps du cinéma (cinema spring Festival) ...... 13 Swimming pool (Joséphine-Baker) ...... 18 Promenade plantée ...... 74

104 T V Taxis ...... 100 val-de-marne area ...... 76 technoparade ...... 11 vélib’ ...... 95 in D ex theatres ...... 97 Viaduc des Arts ...... 74 theme parks ...... 96 Vie romantique (musée de la) ...... 44 tickets ...... 99 Villa Savoye ...... 92 Tomb of napoleon i ...... 56 Vin (musée du) ...... 64 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier ...... 67 tour de France (arrivée du) W (tour de France Finale) ...... 10 What’s on? ...... 10 Tour Jean-sans-Peur ...... 32 Woods ...... 61 – 73 – 95 Tour Montparnasse ...... 51 Tour Saint-Jacques ...... 33 Tourist office of old Montmartre ...... 9 – 46 Z tramway ...... 100 Zadkine (musée) ...... 53 Trocadéro ...... 55 Zoos ...... 96

Paris conVention anD Visitors BUreaU 25 rue des Pyramides, 75001 Paris – France. ParisinFo.com

Publication Director n. Lefebvre – Publication manager S. Petit – editor C. Jean-Louis – english translation D. Lindsay-Mc Geown, E. Lingwood. contributors to this guide: E. filliot (Val-de-Marne Tourisme & Loisirs), o. Gangnard and A. Epeche (Paris City Council), J. M. Grégoire (PCVB), H. Guillon (PCVB), A. Jacquemart (CDT des Hauts-de-Seine), V. Chartier (Seine-Saint-Denis Tourisme), i. Vignaud (PCVB). advertising System Media – Design Publicis Consultants Verbe – Photo (cover) V. Kham – author V. Vidalou, PCVB – Production L. Augereau – maps AfDEC – metro map Altiplano – Photogravure RVB Éditions – Production follow-up Graphic Prod’ Conseil – Printed by imprimerie Vincent. Photos Pcvb: M. Bertrand, R. Casal, f. Charaffi, A. Dupont, J. H3D, f. Jousselin, L. Lammerhuber, J. Lebar, D. Lefeuvre, D. Lefranc, A. Potignon, S. Querbes, S. Rivoal, J. Serur Yedid, A. Terrier, D. Thierry. A. Veldman. Moulin Rouge: H. Smadja, Musée de la Marine – Grande galerie des modèles historiques: A. fux, Muséum d’histoire naturelle, Pavillon de l’Arsenal, Manoir de Paris, Musée Jacquemart André: C. Recoura. Parc zoologique de Paris: f-G. Grandin – MnHn, fragonard, musée de Montmartre, Mondial de l’automobile, Paris Photo: J. Bouillon, : ffT, E. Della Torre. cDt Hauts-de-seine: Musée du château de Malmaison – f. Watbled. val-de-marne tourisme & Loisirs: La Roseraie. seine-saint-Denis tourisme: Cité du Cinéma. Île-de-France: Grandes Eaux musicales de Versailles: C. Milet; Disney/DR – Château d’Auvers sur oise. Paris city council: J. Blachas, E. Boucher, C. Boyer, G. Bruneel, R. Casal, A. Clément, H. Garat, S. Krauss, Laurent, D. Lefeuvre, E. Lefeuvre, M. Lemonnier, R. Mesnildrey, A. Moreau, J.-M. Paz, f. Perrot, C. Pignol, W. Ripka, S. Robichon, B. Ruggeri, T. Sanson, C. Thiebault, M. Verhille. Please note: the PCVB may in no way be held responsible for any possible errors or omissions in this guidebook. Some changes may occur during the year. The PCVB remains at your disposal for any additional information or clarifications. This guidebook lists tourism professionals who were members of the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau on 2 December 2013 and tourism professionals with the Tourisme & Handicap label on 31 December 2013. June 2014 105

PARIS FOR YOU! Walking guide for discovering Paris 2014/2015 discovering Paris Walking guidefor

(2014/2015) FOR YOU! PARIS