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Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest 6

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Munich, & the

Bavaria p89

Stuttgart & the Black Forest p197 p42 ^# ^# & Around p169

Marc Di Duca, Kerry Christiani PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to MUNICH...... 42 ...... 101 Munich, Bavaria & Oberstdorf...... 102 the Black Forest...... 4 Sights...... 43 Activities...... 62 Bad Tölz...... 103 Munich, Bavaria & ...... 104 the Black Forest Map. . . .. 6 Tours...... 63 Festivals & Events ...... 64 Berchtesgaden...... 106 Munich, Bavaria & The Romantic Road. . . 108 the Black Forest’s Sleeping...... 64 Top 10...... 8 Eating...... 70 Würzburg...... 109 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 76 Rothenburg Need to Know...... 14 ob der Tauber...... 114 Entertainment ...... 80 First Time Dinkelsbühl...... 118 Shopping...... 83 Munich, Bavaria & Nördlingen...... 119 the Black Forest...... 16 Around Munich...... 86 Donauwörth ...... 121 ...... 86 What’s New...... 18 ...... 122 Schleissheim...... 87 If You Like ...... 19 am Lech. . . . 125 Starnberger Month by Month. . . . . 22 Fünf-Seen-Land ...... 88 & ...... 126 Itineraries ...... 24 Nuremberg ...... 127 BAVARIA ...... 89 ...... 28 ...... 138 Bavarian ...... 92 Activities...... 33 ...... 142 Füssen ...... 92 ...... 147 Travel with Children. . . . . 37 Oberammergau ...... 96 Altmühltal Regions at a Glance. . . . 39 Garmisch- Nature Park...... 148 Partenkirchen...... 97 ANDREY_POPOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © NIKADA/GETTYIMAGES ©

OKTOBERFEST P28 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Eichstätt ...... 149 Around Salzburg. . . . . 193 Munich, Bavaria & & Schloss Hellbrunn. . . . . 193 the Black Forest Today ...... 264 the ...... 151 Untersberg ...... 193 Regensburg...... 151 & History...... 266 ...... 157 Bad Dürrnberg...... 194 People & Culture . . . . 276 ...... 160 Werfen...... 195 Food & Drink...... 286 ...... 161 ...... 162 & Landscapes & Wildlife...... 296 Bavarian Forest...... 165 THE BLACK ...... 168 FOREST...... 197 Stuttgart...... 198 SURVIVAL SALZBURG & Ludwigsburg...... 208 GUIDE AROUND ...... 169 Swabian Alps Region...... 209 Sights...... 171 Directory A–Z...... 302 Activities...... 179 Tübingen ...... 210 Transport...... 308 Tours ...... 179 Burg Hohenzollern. . . . . 212 Language...... 314 Festivals & Events . . . . . 180 Schwäbisch Hall...... 213 Sleeping ...... 180 Ulm...... 214 Index...... 322 The Black Forest. . . . . 220 Eating...... 184 Map Legend...... 327 Drinking & Nighlife. . . . . 187 -Baden ...... 220 Entertainment ...... 189 ...... 226 Shopping...... 190 Freudenstadt...... 228 Kinzigtal...... 230 ...... 236 Schauinsland ...... 242 St Peter...... 242 Breisach...... 242 Feldberg...... 243 Titisee-Neustadt ...... 244 Schluchsee...... 245 Triberg...... 246 Martinskapelle...... 248 SPECIAL Villingen- Schwenningen ...... 248 FEATURES Rottweil...... 249 Oktoberfest...... 28 Unterkirnach...... 250 A Historical Journey . . . 56 Lake Constance . . . . . 250 Romantic ...... 251 Residences...... 144 ...... 256 Dramatic ...... 258 Landscapes...... 232 ...... 259 TRIBERGER WASSERFÄLLE Food & Drink...... 286 P246 ...... 260 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24

Itineraries

Würzburg •# CZECH

REPUBLIC

É É

•# Nuremberg Rothenburg •# ob der Tauber

Naturpark

Altmühltal É FRANCE ÷# É

•# Munich Freiburg

•#

É É Schloss •# Neuschwanstein Lake Constance •# (Bodensee) Lindau AUSTRIA

10 DAYS Highlights

This itinerary takes in the best of the region in a whistle-stop tour of southern Germa- ny’s must-sees. You could spend months exploring the region but 10 days is just enough to tick off the essentials. Kick off your southern odyssey in Munich where three days is barely enough time to sample the Bavarian capital’s art and beer. A short hop north by train brings you to Nuremberg, the bustling capital of Franconia and a major draw for fans of both dark and dark beer. Another train, another historic city, this time university Würzburg, famous for its wines and the prince-bishop’s residence. You’re now at the northern terminus of the 350km-long Romantic Road. The most engaging stop along the route is , a labyrinth of medieval streets and lanes with heaps of sugary architecture. The Romantic Road ends at the gates of Schloss Neuschwanstein, Bavarian king Ludwig II’s fairy-tale pad and one of the world’s most iconic 19th-century follies. Stop off at Lindau on the shores of Lake Constance en route to Freiburg in the southern Black Forest, where you can follow a tour of the Münster with a slab of the famous local gateau. 25

GERMANY •#

Munich TRIP YOUR PLAN

Chiemsee É Starnberger •# See Prien •# É Salzburg •# It

É i nerar

•# É Berchtesgaden •# Oberammergau i es

AUSTRIA R Zugspitze (2962m)

10 DAYS Munich & the Alps

The Alps are a definite highlight of Bavaria and almost every visitor makes at least one trip to these famous peaks. This itinerary includes the best stop-offs and features every- thing from lakes in the foothills to a train ride to the top of the highest peak. The route can be tackled as a point-to-point trip or as day trips from Munich; the Ger- man Alps are easily reachable by train from there. Beginning in Munich, you’ll need at least three days to cover the essential viewing in this vibrant metropolis, perhaps reserv- ing time for a spot of shopping and to visit some of the city’s lesser-known sights such as the and BMW Welt. If there’s time, the incredibly beautiful Starnberger See is an S-Bahn ride away. Pretty Oberammergau, famous for its once-a-decade pas- sion play, is just over two hours (with changes) on the train from Munich Hauptbahnhof and makes a superb base for visiting King Ludwig II’s Schloss Linderhof, an easy 12km hike. Then it’s time to stand on the roof of Germany: the Zugspitze above Garmisch- Partenkirchen, the Bundesrepublik’s highest peak. If you don’t have your own wheels you’ll have to backtrack all the way to Munich to reach the Chiemsee. Water sports are one of the big draws here, though most come for another of Ludwig II’s palaces, Schloss Herrenchiemsee, set on an island (the Herreninsel) in the lake and accessible by from the town of Prien. After a day of messing around on the Wasser, it’s back into the mountains, this time the ranges around Berchtesgaden in Germany’s extreme southeastern tip. Some intriguing Nazi history can be found here, particularly Hitler’s mountain perch, the Eagle’s Nest, now a seasonal restaurant that draws many visitors. For an equally photogenic escapade, take one of the electric boats from Berchtesgaden along the stunningly picturesque Königssee, surrounded by the Berchtesgaden National Park. From Berchtesgaden it’s a short bus ride into Austria and a day or two of Sound of Music–mania in achingly beautiful Salzburg.

26 É •# •#Stuttgart Baden-Baden FRANCE

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Freudenstadt É

Kinzigtal •# É GERMANY

•# Triberg É It

i nerar •# Freiburg •# Titisee É i es

•# Lake Constance •# (Bodensee) Konstanz

SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA

1 WEEK Stuttgart & the Black Forest

This zigzagging canter through Germany’s southwest is for those who like a varied time on their travels – the route is a mix of cuckoo clocks and state-of-the art luxury car muse- ums, half-timbered villages and the big-city vibe of Stuttgart. Begin with a couple of days exploring the galleries, stately plazas and vibrant night- life of regional capital Stuttgart. High on your agenda should be the city’s regal heart, Schlossplatz, the Staatsgalerie’s art treasures and evenings spent sampling local Rieslings in a Weinstube (wine tavern) or hanging out in Theodor-Heuss-Strasse’s lounge bars. Car fans should race to the space-age Mercedes-Benz and Porsche museums. On day three, head west to Baden-Baden, a swish art nouveau spa town picturesquely nestled at the foot of the Black Forest’s spruce-cloaked hills. Here you can wallow in thermal waters, saunter through the sculpture-speckled Lichtentaler Allee gardens and try your luck in the casino. Day four takes you south along the serpentine Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse (B500), with tremendous forest and mountain panoramas at every bend. Stop to glimpse Germany’s largest square in Freudenstadt on your way to the curving Kinzigtal, the prettiest valley in this neck of the woods, with its orchards, vineyards and cluster of half-timbered villages. Your fifth day takes you to the Black Forest’s most storied town, Triberg, where Germany’s highest waterfall flows, the world’s biggest cuckoo clock calls, and Claus Schäfer bakes the best Black Forest gateau using the original 1915 recipe. Work off the cake with a walk or cross-country ski in the wooded heights of Martinskapelle or Stöcklewaldturm. A scenic hour’s drive from Triberg brings you to the sunny university city of Freiburg, close to the French border. Spend the day absorbing its easygoing flair in the ’s quaint lanes, watched over by a monster of a medieval minster. Wind out your final day by the lake. Swinging east brings you to forest-rimmed Titisee en route to the watery expanse of Lake Constance, ’s third-largest lake, flanked by quaint villages, vineyards, wetlands and beaches. An afternoon in Konstanz is just long enough to get a taste of this Roman-rooted city, where the historic alleys of the Altstadt wend down to a relaxed lakefront promenade. 27

GERMANY

Würzburg •# Coburg É •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN CZECH

Rothenburg •# É REPUBLIC ob der Tauber •#Bayreuth •# Dinkelsbühl •# É Bamberg •# Harburg É Nördlingen •# •# Donauwörth É É

•#Nuremberg It GERMANY

Augsburg•# i nerar É

÷# i es Naturpark Schloss •# Altmühltal Neuschwanstein •#

SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA

Nuremberg & 1 Romantic Road 1 WEEK WEEK Franconia

Germany’s most popular tourist route Franconia has quite a different feel to it winds its way for 350km through Bavaria’s than southern Bavaria. Some of Bavaria’s western reaches. most intriguing museums, historical cen- tres and cultural associations are in its The Romantic Road begins at Würzburg north and this trip covers all the essentials. where two days are enough to tour the impressive Residenz and sample The lively capital of Franconia, Nurem- the region’s wines. From here head south to berg has bags to see and do – including magical Rothenburg ob der Tauber where the Nuremberg trials courtroom, the you can lose yourself in the medieval lanes Germanisches Nationalmuseum and the and celebrate Christmas every day. Your Deutsche Bahn Museum – and an embar- next destination is quaint little Dinkels- rassment of eateries to choose from when bühl, a medieval gem ringed by a complete you return from exploring the region. A set of town walls. More medieval defences close second in Franconia’s pecking order ring Nördlingen, a less touristy but equally is Unesco-listed Bamberg, a confusion of attractive stopover. Set aside some time to ancient bridges, winding cobbled streets check out the story-book castle guarding and riverside cottages, the air perfumed by the half-timbered village of Harburg, and numerous breweries producing the town’s to stroll through twee Donauwörth before unique Rauchbier (smoked beer). An hour’s hitting the city of Augsburg, the Romantic train ride brings you to Bayreuth, famous Road’s biggest settlement boasting several for its annual Wagner Festival but a pleas- worthwhile attractions. Many a church ant place to stroll any time of year. Around graces the Romantic Road but, to Augs- 100km north of Nuremberg, Coburg burg’s south, the one packing the mightiest is memorable for its fortress, its British punch is the luminous Wieskirche, a true royal family connections and the longest baroque masterpiece. Contemplate King sausages you’ll ever eat served in the small- Ludwig II’s flights of fancy at his whimsical est bread buns. Round off your time in castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein, where Franconia with a hike, bike or canoe trip Germany’s most popular tourist route comes (requiring more time) through the glorious to a fittingly fairy-tale climax. Altmühltal Nature Park. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 320

Behind the Scenes

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Konstanz, Maren Schullerus in Baden-Baden, Anna WRITER THANKS Beyrer in Ulm, Yvonne Halmich in Karlsruhe, Christine Marc Di Duca Strecker in Freiburg, Sandra Nörpel in Stuttgart, and Huge thanks goes out to Robert Leckel of München Stephanie Staudhammer in Salzburg. Tourismus for his invaluable assistance and great ideas. I’d also like to thank all the staff of Bavaria’s excellent tourist offices for their help, especially ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS those in Landsberg, Nuremberg, Bamberg, Augsburg Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson and Bayreuth. Finally many thanks to my wife for BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the holding the fort while I was away in Bavaria. Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Kerry Christiani Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. I’d like to say vielen Dank to all of the locals, travel- Cover photograph: Rothenburg ob der Tauber, lers and tourism pros who made the road to research Francesco Carovillano/4Corners © a pleasure. Particular thanks go to Andrea Mauch in 321

Destination Editor Niamh Samantha Forge, Victoria THIS BOOK O’Brien Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, This 6th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editor Genna Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Planet’s Munich, Bavaria & Patterson Nicholson, Tamara Sheward, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon the Black Forest guide was Product Editors Shona Gray, researched and written by Williamson

Sandie Kestell SCENES THE BEHIND Marc Di Duca and Kerry Chris- Naomi Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher tiani, and curated by Marc. Valentina Kremenchutskaya Parker The previous edition was also Martina Brunner, Book Designer Gwen Cotter Thanks to written by Marc and Kerry. Heather Champion, Deniz Assisting Editors James This guidebook was produced Ozkan, Kathryn Rowan, Renata Bainbridge, Michelle Coxall, by the following: Willi ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 322

Index

A Museum Moderner Kunst Bavarian Forest 165-8, 233 Oberstdorfer accessible travel 302 163 Bayreuth 142-7 Dampfbierbrauerei 102-3 accommodation 16, 302-4, Museum Stuck 61 beer 11, 28-32, 290-2, 294 Staatsbrauerei see also individual 55 Bier & Weihenstephan 160-1 locations Neues Museum 131 Oktoberfestmuseum 50 budget 15 activities 22-3, 33-6, see beer festivals, see also also individual activities 54-5 Oktoberfest Burg Hohenzollern 212-13 air travel 308-9, 309-10 Rupertinum 177 Munich 28-32, 64, 2 bus travel 309, 310 Alpirsbach 230-1 Sammlung Schack 61 Regensburg 154 business hours 306 Alps, see Bavarian Alps Staatliche Kunsthalle 221 Stuttgart 203 Altmühltal Nature Park Staatsgalerie Stuttgart Berchtesgaden 106-8, 300 C 148-9 199 bicycle travel, see cycling cable cars 243 amusement parks Württembergischer Black Forest 40, 197, 220- canoeing 148-9, 254 Kunstverein 202 Europa-Park 240 50, 198, 221 car museums 21 art museums, see art Legoland 217 accommodation 197 galleries & art museums Audi Factory 157-8 Märchengarten 209 climate 197 ATMs 306 Audi Forum – Museum Ravensburger Spieleland food 197 Mobile 158 259 Audi 157-8 highlights 198 BMW Museum 59 Ulm Stories 217 Augsburg 122-5 history 269 BMW Welt 58 area codes 15, 306-7 travel seasons 197 Mercedes-Benz Museum art 177 B Black Forest gateau 288, 201 art galleries & art museums Bächle 237 288 Porsche Museum 201 54 Bad Dürrnberg 194-5 BMW 58, 59 car travel 309, 310-11 Buchheim Museum 88 Bad Tölz 103-4 boating casinos 220 58 Baden-Baden 11, 220-6, Konstanz 254 castles & palaces 19, 144-5 53 222, 11 Munich 62 Altes Schloss (Bayreuth) Kunstareal 58 activities 223 Passau 163 143 Kunsthalle 210 entertainment 225 Regensburg 154 Altes Schloss Schleissheim 88 Kunsthalle Karlsruhe 226 food 224-5 Salzburg 179, 180 Burg Hohenwerfen 195 Kunsthalle Weishaupt 215 information 225 Schluchsee 246 Burg Hohenzollern 212-13 Kunsthalle Würth 213 sights 220-3 Stuttgart 203 Burg Meersburg 256 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart travel to/within 225-6 Titisee-Neustadt 245 199 Burg Trausnitz 161 Bamberg 138-42, 139 Tübingen 212 Lechner Museum 158 Fürstbischöfliche bargaining 17 Bohnenviertel 205 58 Residenz 150 bathrooms 307 books 264, 279 55 Jagdschloss Schachen Bavaria 39, 89-168, 90-1 beer 289 98 Museum der Moderne 175 accommodation 89 history 275 Kaiserburg 127, 145, 145 Museum Frieder Burda climate 89 220 border crossings 309 Neue Residenz 140 food 89 Museum für Konkrete Brecht, Bertolt 123 Neues Schloss (Baden- Kunst 158 highlights 90-1 Breisach 242-3 Baden) 223 Museum für Neue Kunst history 92 breweries Neues Schloss (Bayreuth) 237 travel seasons 89 Alpirsbacher Klosterbräu 143 travel to/within 92 231 Neues Schloss Bavaria Filmstadt 279-80, Augustiner Bräustübl 188 (Ingolstadt) 158-9 Map Pages 000 280 Maisel’s Bier-Erlebnis- Neues Schloss Welt 143 (Meersburg) 256 Photo Pages 000 Bavarian Alps 92-108, 232-3 323 Neues Schloss Dom St Maria 160 climate 14, 22-3, 303, 14 festivals & events 22-3 Schleissheim 87 Dom St Peter 151 Coburg 147-8 Cannstatter Volksfest 203 Residenz 174 Dom St Stephan 162 concentration camps 86-7 Christopher Street Day Residenzschloss 208-9 Dreifältigkeitskirche 177 consulates 304-5 (Munich) 64 Schloss (Karlsruhe) 226 Franziskanerkirche 177 convents, see monasteries Christopher Street Day (Stuttgart) 203 Schloss Ehrenburg 147 Frauenkirche 47, 20 & convents Schloss Favorite 209 Freiburger Münster 236 courses Oktoberfest 9, 28-32, INDEX 64, , , , Schloss Harburg 122, 10 Grabkapelle Rotenberg cooking 289-90 2 9 31 281 Schloss Hellbrunn 193 202 language 305 Salzburg Festival 182

Schloss Heiliggeistkirche 47 credit cards 306 Tollwood Festival 23  C-G Herrenchiemsee 104 Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche cuckoo clocks 247 Wagner Festival 143  Schloss (Donauwörth) 121 culture 276-85 Festung Hohensalzburg 171 Hohenschwangau 93 Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche currency 14 Fettquelle 225 Schloss Hohentübingen () customs regulations 304 film 279, 280 210 126 cycling 35-6, 310 flags 276, 278 Schloss Leopoldskron 179 Jakobskirche 114 Altmühltal Nature Park Florentinerberg 223 Johanniskirche 125-6 Schloss Linderhof 97, 144 149 food 20-1, 286-95, 291, Schloss Lustheim 87 Kirche St Michael 213 Lake Constance 258 292, 295 Schloss Mirabell 176 Liebfrauenkirche 259 Munich 62 Black Forest gateau Schloss Neuschwanstein Liebfrauenmünster 158 Salzburg 179 288, 288 13, 92-3, 145, 13 Liebfraukirche 121 etiquette 293, 294-5 Schloss Lorenzkirche 131 sausages 287-8, 286 Nymphenburg 59 Ludwigskirche 53 D Schneeballen 117 Schloss Salem 258 Dachau 86-7 Marienmunster 88 Swabian specialities 214 Schloss Solitude 199 Danube region 151-68 Michaelskirche 47 Weisswurst 290 Schloss Thurn und deer 297, 296 Münster (Konstanz) 253 football 277-8 Taxis 151 DenkStätte Weisse Rose Münster (Villingen- forests 233 Stadtresidenz 161 53, 62, 20 Schwenningen) 249 fortresses, see also castles Willibaldsburg 150 Dinkelsbühl 118-19 Münster Heilig-Kreuz & palaces Würzburg Residenz 109- disabilities, travellers 250 Festung Hohensalzburg with 302 10, 145, 144-5 Münster St Georg 118 171 distilleries 231 cathedrals, see churches & Neumünster 111 Festung Marienberg 111 cathedrals Donauwörth 121-2 Peterskirche 261 Neuf-Brisach 242-3 caves 195 drinks 20-1, 286-95, see Pfarrkirche St Oswald Veste Coburg 147 cell phones 14, 306 also beer, wine & wine 164 Veste Oberhaus 162-3 cemeteries 178 regions Pfarrkirche Unsere Liebe Franconia 126-51 Chiemsee 104-5 Frau 133 driving, see car travel Frankenstein 158 children, travel with 37-8 Russische Kirche 223 Dürer, Albrecht 130-1 Fraueninsel 104 Munich 69 Schlosskirche 258 Frauenkirche 47, 20 Nuremberg 135 Schottenkirche St Jakob E Freiburg 236-62, Salzburg 183 153 Eagle’s Nest 57, 106, 238 accommodation 237-9 Christmas markets 13 St Anna Kirche 122-3 107, 56 drinking 241 Munich 64 St Georgskirche 119 economy 264-5 entertainment 241 Nuremberg 133, 13 St Jakobskirche 168 Eichstätt 149-51 food 239-41 Regensburg 154 St Korbinian 160 Einstein, Albert 215 information 241 Rothenburg ob der St Martin Church 161 electricity 304 Tauber 116 St Peterskirche 47 embassies 304-5 sights 236-7 Salzburg 180 St Sebalduskirche 131 emergencies 15 tours 237 Stuttgart 203 St Stephansmünster 242 environment 265 travel to/within 241 churches & cathedrals 21 Stadtkirche 228 etiquette 17, 277, 293 Freising 160-1 Alte Kapelle 153 Stadtpfarrkirche Mariä Ettal 96 Freudenstadt 228-30 Asamkirche 47 Himmelfahrt 126 Europa-Park 240 Friedrichshafen 258-9 Asamkirche Maria de Stiftskirche 223 events, see festivals & Füssen 92-6 Victoria 157 Stiftskirche St Georg events Bamberger Dom 138-9 210 exchange rates 15 Theatinerkirche 51 G Dom (Eichstätt) 149-50 gardens, see parks & Dom (Salzburg) 175 Ulmer Münster 214-15 gardens Ursulinenkirche 168 F Dom Mariä Feldberg 243-4 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Heimsuchung 123 Wieskirche 125, 57 97-101, , ferry travel 309 99 100 Dom St Kilian 111 cinema 279-80 gay travellers 80, 305 324 Gengenbach 235-6 Historisches Museum L mountains 19, 233 (Regensburg) 153-4 geography 296-300 Lake Constance 250-62, Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 314-19 Museum für 251, 232 13, 177, 280-1, 13 Stadtgeschichte 237 Gläserne Wald 166 lakes 19, 233 Mozart’s Geburtshaus 176 Museum of Bavarian Gurlitt, Cornelius 283 Chiemsee 104-5 Mozart-Wohnhaus 176 History 151 Gutach 234-5 Königssee 106 walking tours 181, 181

INDEX INDEX hitching 311-12 Lake Constance 250-62, Mt Merkur 223 Hitler, Adolf 129, 272-4 251, 232 multiculturalism 277 H Eagle’s Nest 57, 106, Schluchsee 245-6 Munich 9, 39, 42-88, 44-5, Hallein 194-5 107, 56 ,G-M Titisee-Neustadt 244-5 48-9, 60, 66, 72-3, 78  Harburg 122 Mein Kampf 51, 125 Landsberg am Lech 125-6 82, 8-9, 20, 31, 56, 57 Haslach 235 Hofbräuhaus 76, 10  landscape 233 accommodation 42, health 305 holidays 306 64-70 Landshut 161-2 Heimatfilm 279 activities 62-3 Langer, Bernhard 278 12, 33-6, 12 children, travel with 69 Altmühltal Nature Park I language 14, 17, 305, 314-19 ice caves 195 climate 42 149 legal matters 305 immigration 308 drinking & nightlife 76-80 Baden-Baden 223, 226 lesbian travellers 80, 305 Ingolstadt 157-60 entertainment 80-3 Bavarian Forest 166-7 LGBT+ travellers 80, 305 insurance 305 festivals & events 64 Berchtesgaden National lighthouses 260-1 internet access 305 food 42, 70-6 Park 106-7, 12 Lindau 260-2 highlights 44-5 Black Forest 229 internet resources 15, 281 literature 21, 278-9, see history 43 Blomberg 103 beer 294 also books information 84-5 Feldberg 243 food 287 Ludwig II 95, 272 shopping 83-4 Freudenstadt 228 history 267 Ludwig-Maximilians- Universität 53 sights 43-62 Garmisch- theatre 284 Partenkirchen 98 wine 290 Ludwigsburg 208-9 travel seasons 42 Salzburg 179 inventors 273 travel to/from 85-6 travel within 86 Schluchsee 245-6 itineraries 24-7, 24, 25, M Triberg 247 26, 27 magazines 307 walking tours 52, 52 Tübingen 211 maps 305-6 Munich region 86-8 museums 19-20 historic buildings & sites J 46, 8-9 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus Alt-Rothenburger Jewish history & culture markets, see Christmas 130-1 Handwerkerhaus 115-16 Jüdisches markets Antikensammlungen Document Neupfarrplatz Kulturmuseum 123 Marktl am 164 55-8 153 Jüdisches Museum 47, 50 Martinskapelle 248 Feldherrnhalle 50-1 Archäologisches Jüdisches Museum Maximilianstrasse 54 Museum 237 Felsengänge 131 Franken 131 measures 307 Augustinermuseum 237 Fuggerei 122 (Ulm) 215 Meersburg 256-8 Badisches Historisches Kaufhaus Mittenwald 101-2 Landesmuseum 226 237 mobile phones 14, 306 Bayerisches Konzilgebäude 253 K monasteries & convents Armeemuseum 158 Mittelalterliche Kaiserburg 127, 145, 145 Ehemaliges Bayerisches Lochgefängnisse 133 Kaiserstuhl 244 Benedikterkloster 242 Eisenbahnmuseum Roman Wall 154 Kalvarienberg 103-4 Erzabtei St Peter 176 120 Römersiedlung 253 Karlsruhe 226-8 Kloster Alpirsbach 231 Bayerisches Römische Badruinen 223 kayaking 148-9 Kloster Andechs 88 Nationalmuseum 53 Salzbergwerk 107 Kinzigtal 230-6 Bayerisches Kirchdorf Wamberg 98 Kloster Bebenhausen Stadtmauer 114 210 Polizeimuseum 159 Klein Venedig 141 history 57, 116, 266-75 Kloster Ettal 96 Brechthaus 123 Konstanz 251-6, history museums 252 Kloster Gengenbach 235 Children & Young accommodation 254 People’s Museum 135 Haus der Geschichte 118 Kloster Maulbronn 226-7 activities 254 Christmas Museum 177 Historischer Kloster St Michael 140 Kunstbunker 133 drinking 255-6 Coburger Kloster St Walburga 150 Historisches Museum entertainment 255-6 Puppenmuseum 147 Stift Nonnberg 176-7 (Bamberg) 139-40 food 254-5 Deutsche Bahn Museum money 14, 17, 287, 306 127-8 sights 253-4 Montez, Lola 270 Deutsches travel to/within 256 motorcycle travel 309, Medizinhistorisches Map Pages 000 KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau 310-11 Museum 158 Photo Pages 000 86-7 mountain biking 35-6, 228 61 325 Deutsches Museum – Museum der music museums P Verkehrszentrum 62 Brotkultur 217 Geigenbaumuseum 101 painting 281-5 Deutsches Museum Fünf Mozart’s Geburtshaus palaces, see castles & Weihnachtsmuseum Kontinente 61 176 palaces 114 Museum Humpis- Mozart-Wohnhaus 176 parks & gardens Diözesan Museum 160 Quartier 259 Museum Alter Botanischer

Dokumentation Museum im 142-3 Garten 58 INDEX Obersalzberg 106 Kulturspeicher 111 Blühendes Barock 209 Domgrabungsmuseum Museum Mensch und 51, 53 177 Natur 60-1 N

Eremitage 143  M-R Dommuseum 178 Museum of the 3rd national parks & reserves Dimension 118 298, 300 Lichtentaler Allee 220  Domschatzmuseum 150 253 Duravit Design Centre Museum Ulm 215 Altmühltal Nature Park 234 Museumsdorf 148-9 Paradies am Annaberg 223 Fabergé Museum 223 Bayerischer Wald 166 Bavarian Forest National Park 166, 233 Schlossgarten 199 Flugwerft Neues Stadtmuseum 126 Schleissheim 88 Oberammergau Museum Berchtesgaden National Stadtgarten 253 Park 106-7, , Fränkisches 96 12 300 Partnachklamm 98 Brauereimuseum 140 Paläontologisches Naturpark Schönbuch Passau 162-5 211 Franziskaner Museum Museum 69 passports 308 248 Passauer Glasmuseum Upper Danube Valley Pfahlbauten 261 Nature Reserve 248 Freilichtmuseum 179 163 planetariums 202 272-4, 283 Fuggereimuseum 122 Reichsstadtmuseum planning 114-15 Dokumentation Gäubodenmuseum 168 budgeting 15 Residenzmuseum 43, 46 Obersalzberg 106 Germanisches calendar of events 22-3 Rieskrater Museum 120 Eagle’s Nest 57, 106, Nationalmuseum children, travel with 37-8 128-9 Römermuseum 163 107, 56 first-time visitors 16-17 Glasmuseum 166 Röntgen NS Dokuzentrum 55 internet resources 15 Golf Museum 151-2 Gedächtnisstätte 112 Reichsparteitagsgelände 129 itineraries 24-7 Hällisch-Fränkisches Rosgartenmuseum 253 repeat visitors 18 Museum 213 Salzburg Museum newspapers 307 southern Germany Haus der 1000 Uhren 171, 174 Nördlingen 119-21 basics 14-15 247 School Museum 135 Nuremberg 12, 127-38, southern Germany’s Haus der Natur 178-9 Schüttesäge Museum 128-9, 5, 12 regions 39-40 Heimatmuseum 164 234 accommodation 133-4 travel seasons 14, 22-3 Hohenloher Schwarzwälder children, travel with 135 plants 298-9 Freilandmuseum 213 Trachtenmuseum 235 drinking & nightlife politics 264-5 Hölderlinturm 210 Schweinemuseum 202 136-7 Pope John Paul II 274 International Ceramics Spielzeugmuseum entertainment 137 Museum 167 (Munich) 69 festivals & events 133 population 265 Käthe-Kruse- Spielzeugmuseum food 135-6 Porta Praetoria 153 Puppenmuseum 121 (Nuremberg) 130 information 137-8 postal services 306 Keltenmuseum 194 Spielzeugmuseum shopping 137 public holidays 306 Kepler-Gedächtnishaus (Salzburg) 178 sights 127-33 puppet theatre 83 154 Stadtmauermuseum 120 tours 133 Landesmuseum Stadtmuseum (Bad travel to/from 138 Württemberg 202 Tölz) 103 R travel within 138 radio 307 Maisel’s Bier-Erlebnis- Stadtmuseum (Lindau) walking tours 132, 132 Welt 143 260 Ratzinger, Cardinal Joseph 164 Maximilianmuseum 123 Stadtmuseum Ravensburg 259-60 Mittelalterliches (Nördlingen) 120 O Kriminalmuseum 114 Stadtmuseum Oberammergau 96-7 Regensburg 151-7, 152 Fembohaus 131 Münchner Stadtmuseum Oberstdorf 102-3 accommodation 154-5 Vineum 256-7 activities 154 46-7 Oktoberfest 9, 28-32, 64, 2, Vogtsbauernhof 234 Museum Alte Kulturen 9, 31, 281 drinking & nightlife 156-7 210 Waldmuseum 166 Bier & festivals & events 154 Museum am Dom 111-12 Weissenhof Estate 200-1 Oktoberfestmuseum food 155-6 Museum am Markt 231 Zentrum für Kunst und 50 information 157 Museum beim Markt Medientechnologie Theresienwiese 62 sights 151-4 227 227 Olympiapark 58-9 travel to/from 157 Zeppelin Museum 258 Museum der opening hours 15, 306 travel within 157 Bayerischen Könige 94 music 21, 280-1 280-1 Reichenau 253 326 religion 116, 265, 277 skiing 34-5, 278 time 14, 307 Monument to the reserves, see national Bavarian Forest 167 tipping 17 Victims of National parks & reserves Berchtesgaden 107 Titisee-Neustadt 244-5 Socialism 50 rivers 233 Garmisch- toilets 307 Oskar Schindler Plaque 154 rock climbing 149 Partenkirchen 98 Tollwood Festival 23 Wassermann, Jakob 279 Romantic Road 11, 57, 108- Mittenwald 101 tourist information 307

INDEX INDEX waterfalls 26, 310, 10 Oberstdorf 102 Trachten 190, 284 Rothenburg ob der Tauber smoking 307 Todtnauer Wasserfall train journeys 98 243 114-18, 115, 56-7 soccer, see football train travel 309, 312-13 Triberger Wasserfälle R-Z Rottweil 249-50 Sound of Music 178 travel to/from southern 246, 3 sparrows 218 Germany 308-9 weather 14, 22-3, 303  spas 21, 36 travel within southern S Weiden 167 accommodation 224 Germany 309-13 safety 306 weights 307 Badeparadies 244-5 Triberg 246-8 hitching 311 Weisswurst 290 Munich 84 Caracalla Spa 223 Triberger Wasserfälle 246, Werfen 195-6 Oktoberfest 32 Friedrichsbad 223 2-3 White Rose 53, 62, 20 salt mines 194 Meersburg Therme 256 Trinkhalle 220-1, 11 Wieskirche 125, 57 Salzburg 13, 40, 169-96, Sanitas Spa 247 Tübingen 210-12 wildlife 296-300 170, 172-3, 13 Watzmann Therme 107 wine & wine regions 290, sport 277-8 accommodation 169, U 292 180-4 St Peter 242 Ulm 214-20, 216-17 Gengenbach 235 activities 179 Starnberger Fünf-Seen- accommodation 217-18 Kaiserstuhl 244 children, travel with 183 Land 88 activities 217 Stuttgarter Straubing 168 climate 169 drinking 219 Weinwanderweg 202 Stuttgart 40, 197-208, drinking & nightlife 188-9 entertainment 219 Wittelsbachs, the 57, 267-8 festivals & events 180 198, 200 food 218-19 Würzburg 109-14, 110 food 169, 184-7 accommodation 197, information 219 accommodation 112 highlights 170 203-4 sights 214-17 drinking 113-14 history 170-1 climate 197 travel to/from 220 entertainment 113-14 information 192 drinking & nightlife 206-7 travel within 220 festivals & events 112 itineraries 171 entertainment 207 Unterkirnach 250 food 112-13 shopping 185, 189-91 food 197, 204-6 Untersberg 193-4 history 109 travel seasons 169 highlights 198 information 114 travel to/from 192 history 199 sights 109-12 travel within 192-3 V information 208 vacations 306 travel to/from 114 walking tours 181, 181 shopping 207-8 47, 291 Würzburg Residenz 109-10, Salzburgerland 193-6, 193 145, sights 199-202 Villingen-Schwenningen 144-5 sausages 287-8, 286 tours 203 248-9 WWII 19 Schauinsland 242 travel seasons 197 visas 14, 307 Dokumentation Schiltach 231-4 Obersalzberg 106 travel to/from 208 Volksmusik 282 Schindler, Oskar 154 Eagle’s Nest 57, 106, travel within 208 Schleissheim 87-8 107, 56 Swabian Alps region 18, Schloss Harburg 122, 10 209-20 W Memorium Nuremberg Wagner Festival 143 Trials 129-30 Schloss Linderhof 97, 144 Wagner, Richard 93, 142-3, NS Dokuzentrum 55 Schloss Neuschwanstein Chiemsee 104-5 143, 280 13, 92-3, 145, 13 Reichsparteitagsgelände Freudenstadt 229 Walhalla 156 129 Schlossberg 237 Munich 62-3 walking tours White Rose 53, 62, 20 Schluchsee 245-6 Schluchsee 246 Munich 52, 52 Scholl, Hans 53, 62 Titisee-Neustadt 244 Nuremberg 132, 132 Scholl, Sophie 53, 62 Villingen-Schwenningen Z Schwäbisch Hall 213-14 249 Salzburg 181, 181 zoos sculpture 281-5 war memorials & Affenberg Salem 262 monuments Shelley, Mary 158 SeaLife München 69 T DenkStätte Weisse shopping 21 Tierpark Hellabrunn 69 telephone services 306-7 Rose 53 Wilhelma Zoologisch- television 279-80 Grafeneckart 111 Botanischer Garten Testturm 18, 249 Memorium Nuremberg 202 Map Pages 000 Trials 129-30 theatre 284, 285 Zugspitze 98 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 327

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Marc Di Duca Munich, Bavaria A travel author for over a decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, , Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and up- dating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives near Mariánské Láznĕ in the with his wife and two sons. Marc also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

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