Contents

Plan Your Trip 4 Welcome to & ...... 4 Top Sights ...... 6 Eating ...... 10 ’s Delicious Street Food ...... 12 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 14 Shopping & Markets ...... 16 Spiritual Delhi & Agra ...... 18 History ...... 20 Activities & Tours ...... 21 Museums ...... 22 For Kids ...... 23 Four Perfect Days ...... 24 Need to Know ...... 26 Delhi & Agra Neighbourhoods ...... 28

Akbar’s Mausoleum, Sikandra (p131) ZORAN KARAPANCEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

00--title-page-TOC-pk-rda1.inddtitle-page-TOC-pk-rda1.indd 2 66/06/2019/06/2019 2:03:262:03:26 PM Explore Survival Delhi & Agra 31 Guide 141 Old Delhi Before You Go ...... 142 (Shahjahanabad) ...... 33 Arriving in Delhi & ...... 57 Agra ...... 143 Sunder Nagar, Getting Around ...... 144 Nizamuddin & Essential Information ....145 Lodi Colony ...... 75 Language ...... 149 ...... 95 Index ...... 152 Greater Delhi & (Gurugram) ...... 107 Agra ...... 121 Special Features ...... 34 Worth a Trip Jama Masjid...... 38 ...... 136 Purana ...... 76 ’s Tomb ...... 78 Akshardham Temple ...... 92 Qutab Minar Complex ... 108 ...... 122 ...... 126

00--title-page-TOC-pk-rda1.inddtitle-page-TOC-pk-rda1.indd 3 66/06/2019/06/2019 2:03:272:03:27 PM Welcome to Delhi & Agra

It’sIt’s no shock thatthat MughalMughal ’s two greatgreat capital cities flauntflaunt suchsuch incredibleincredible historicalhistorical ricricheshes – notnot leastleast thethe peerlesspeerless TajTaj MahalMahal – butbut DelhiDelhi and AgraAgra springspring some surprises too. Heavenly street food,food, gloriouslygloriously chaotic bazaars and, in Delhi’s modern suburbs, sky trains that zip shoppers from mall to mall, offer a tantalising glimpse of the India of the future.

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UI.UA.9SUTRTC OPDYSUTRTC RAVIGUPTA/SHUTTERSTOCKKRISHNAN © ROOP_DEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © SUMIT.KUMAR.99/SHUTTERSTOCK © Qutab Minar Complex The world’s tallest brick minaret. p108 Plan Your Trip Top Sights Top

Agra Fort Awesome red-sandstone riverside fortress. p126

Mehrauli Archaeological Park Forested park scattered with ruins. p110

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Purana Qila Jama Masjid Delhi’s prodigious ‘Old Fort’. p76 Delhi’s principal mosque. p38 ET AK3/HTESOK© IH:LCAOMRUA-LMSUTRTC LEFT: DON MAMMOSER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; RIGHT: FOTOS593/SHU LEFT: SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; RIGHT: LUCIANO MORTULA - LGM/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your Trip Top Sights Top TTERSTOCK ©

Fatehpur Sikri Akshardham Temple Emperor ’s ghostly Delhi’s largest Hindu temple. abandoned city. p136 p92

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