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How to Make a Gambeson

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How to Make a Gambeson How to Make a Gambeson Also known as: Aketon, Arming Coat, Bambikion, Haqueton, Jack or Jupon By Inga the Unfettered Lost Vikings Household MKA: Michelle Height [email protected] Special thanks to: Olaf the Stout Rasmussen: for asking me to make my first gambeson and taking the time to explain what one was and what it was for. Countess Dierdriana of the Misty Isles MKA: Maureen Whitaker Clifton : for her booklet ‘Fantastic Gambazons’ that got me started on my way. The Lost Vikings : for loving my work so much and for putting it to such good use Dexter of the Silver Talons : for all the brainstorming and for questioning everything My mum : for all the skills that make it possible @ 2001 Inga the Unfettered MKA: Michelle Height All Rights Reserved Design options There are several factors to consider when choosing the design and style of the gambeson. - What type of fighter will wear this gambeson? Lights must have long sleeves, heavies wear a broad assortment of armor that must be factored in to the fit. I suggest doing a few sketches to help determine what will best serve the wearer’s needs. - What is the wearer’s persona? This will affect color choice, quilting design and embellishment. The pattern I present here does not derive exclusively from any one given period and authenticity has been sacrificed for functionality to some degree. This basic shape can easily be modified to include a collar, dags and other such period modifications. Keep in mind that this garment is, above all, intended to protect the wearer - do not let the appearance of the gambeson impede the functionality of the garment – just a word of caution. - Is this for a new fighter or established fighter? A new fighter may wish to construct a quick version of the gambeson to save time & cost. An established fighter generally has a clear idea of what works for them and will likely want to go with the full finish gambeson for it’s durability. Quick version – ideal for the new fighter – can only be made out of moving blanket The primary difference is that the moving blanket is not encased in anything to increase it’s lifespan. Edges of the moving blanket are encased in store bought bias tape or serged to seal in the padding. Material Cost: $20 to $30 Construction time: 2 to 3 evenings Lifespan: up to one year with weekly washings High Finish – major investment of time & money – best for those that are committed to fighting. Material Cost: up to $200 Construction time: 30 to 40 hours Lifespan: seemingly indefinite if cared for properly (all those I’ve made are still in use) 4 to 6 years under regular levels of abuse is a conservative estimate (Note: edging and edging where armor rubs will show wear first i.e.: area around neckline where gorget rubs) Styles Tabard – works best with external armor or for those brave souls that wear absolute bare minimum armor – no sleeves and nominal coverage on sides (ribs) an issue to be considered – this is such a simple design that I do not cover it specifically in the following construction instructions. Simply cover batting/moving blanket according to construction instructions and edge with bias tape as per edging instructions. Attach closures (ties, grommets & lacing etc..) under arms at waist. Loose/Tunic style - looser fit works well with either internal or external armor - less fitting required - excess fabric may cause bunching - excellent for light fighting - can be done with open or closed armholes & with or without side slits - shown here with short sleeve and long sleeve Fitted style - designed for use with close fitting internal armor - highly fitted - no excess of fabric - armholes are open and sides are slit to provide maximum range of motion - shown here with short sleeve and long sleeve Materials List Padding Interior - Moving blanket - MUST be of all natural materials – WARNING some companies sell blankets that have synthetic shells - Cotton or Polyester batting Exterior - Cotton/ Polyester blend fabric is recommended - this gives you the breathability of cotton with the pill resistance and colorfastness of polyester - Heavy Suiting or Bull Denim are excellent choices for long term wear (Note: for those new to sewing, the staff at the fabric stores can help you find these types of fabric) - IMPORTANT!!!!! The weave of the fabric you select must be tight – think of how closely woven denim is. An open weave fabric will snag, pill, tear and show wear much more readily Bonding Material - Stichwitchery can be used but it does add weight to the finished product and is quite costly - Bargain Fabric outlets regularly carry a no-name version of Stichwitchery that is much lighter – it looks like spider web – and is as good a fusing material at about half the cost of Stichwitchery Thread – Poly/cotton blend Sewing Machine Needles - Batting - Regular heavy duty needles - Moving Blanket - Leather needles are best for punching through the bulk of the moving blanket Shopping list for above materials (based on constructing a gambeson for your average SCA male heavy fighter 180 –200 lbs) - 1 NEW moving blanket OR 3 m Polyester or Cotton batting - 3 m @ 60 inch width of each the exterior fabric and the lining - 2 m @ 60 inch width for bias tape to seal all edges and seams for fitted style OR 1 m @ 60 inch width for bias tape to seal all edges for looser tunic style (see section on design) - 2 spools of thread in exterior color for quilting and top stitching - 2 spools of thread in bias tape color - 1 package of sewing machine needles (see above for type) - 12 m of Stichwitchery @ 20 inch width OR 4 m of discount fusing (it is generally in greater than 60 inch widths – adjust this amount based on what widths you are able to purchase it in) - Closures (this is all matter of choice) - 2 inch width adhesive backed Velcro (1 m is usually enough) - Fabric tie closures made of bias tape fabric - Leather toggles or buckles - Grommets & leather or synthetic lacing Misc. Supplies: - TONS of good pins – quilting pins work best - Tailors chalk - Measuring tape - Yard stick - Good scissors - Marking pen – felt marker - Paper for pattern – newsprint works well - Iron Places to Buy Materials in Veraquilon Moving Blankets: Harlou Moving Supplies 9408 – 62 Avenue 780.438.9188 Batting and Fusing: Marshall Discount Fabrics 10015 – 63 Avenue 780.436.3739 All other materials: Fanny’s Fabrics is my favorite - excellent selection of suiting - poly/cotton is regularly on sale - great selection of clearance materials Places to Buy Materials in Montengarde Moving Blankets: Shipper’s Supply Inc. Bay #8, 3401 – 19 Street NE 403.291.0450 or 4848 – 52 Street SE 403.204.3699 All other materials: as above, Fanny’s Fabrics is my favorite - excellent selection of suiting - poly/cotton is regularly on sale - great selection of clearance materials Measurements 1. Neck 2. Neck to shoulder 3. Shoulder to sleeve end 4. Armpit to sleeve end 5. Bicep flexed 6. Elbow 7. Forearm flexed 8. Wrist 9. Chest expanded 10. Shoulder to shoulder across rounded back 11. Shoulder to shoulder across expanded chest 12. Base of back of neck to bottom edge 13. Base of throat to bottom edge 14. Waist 15. Hip 16. Desired overlap (approx. from center line to nipple) 17. Desired slit 18. Armpit to bottom edge Drafting the Pattern For fitted Back Panel Front panel – remember that this is an overlap closure cut 2 pieces one facing left & one facing right. Note centerline – the amount of overlap can be modified to suit personal taste. Short Sleeve Long sleeve For Loose/Tunic style Use a tunic pattern as a guide for the fit – I use McCall 2665 Men’s tunic for the basic shape but taper the sleeves from the pattern’s design and split the front on the center line adding enough for an overlap to the resulting front half. Construction Process - Wash all fabric including the moving blanket/batting in HOT water and dry thoroughly. WASHING WARNINGS: Moving blankets are huge and heavy – don’t risk your washing machine – go to a laundromat. Batting is hard to wash – I suggest soaking it in hot water in your tub, squeezing out the excess, spin in the washer and lay out or tumble on gentle to dry. - Press all fabric and batting/moving blanket – this will make it easier to work with and to fuse together - Take all indicated measurements and draft a rough pattern (see Drafting the pattern) - Pin together and fit against wearer – do not fit too closely to the body at this point – it can always be trimmed to fit. Leave space to accommodate armor and the broad arm movements that are necessary to most styles of fighting. The garment should not restrict movement in any way. - Lay out pattern on batting or moving blanket – IMPORTANT! Quilting channels must run across the piece – including on the sleeves if not, the loose cotton fill will shift down the garment - Mark out the pattern with marker and then cut out allowing a minimum of 1 inch all round - Gently pin together at shoulders and test the fit on the wearer – trim any obvious excess – always trim in small increments – do not over trim or the garment will be too tight. Pin together sleeves and test width keeping in mind armor and needed range of movement and as small measure of shrinkage due to quilting - Cut exterior and lining to the dimensions of the batting/moving blanket pieces - Pin exterior, batting/moving blanket, and lining together with right faces of fabric out.
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