ARCHAEOLOGICAL and ANCIENT LANDSCAPE SURVEY EIGG PIER DEVELOPMENT GALMISDALE 2002 Part 2 Work on the Wreck (Steven Birch) By Martin Wildgoose AIFA and Steven Birch PIFA, FSA Scot. Contents: Page: Contents 1 List of Illustrations 2 1 Introduction 3 2 Background 3 3 The Survey 8 3.2 The Wreck Site 8 4 Site Assessment 15 4.2 Analysis of the Boat Remains 19 4.3 Summary 20 5 Recommendations 22 6 Acknowledgements 23 7 References 24 Appendix 1: Interim report for additional work completed on the boat remains during February 2002 25 Appendix 2: Plan of the boat remains with references for photographic images used in the text 27 Appendix 3: Report on the boat remains from Dr. D.M. McElvogue – Marine Archaeologist and specialist in boat construction (Mary Rose Trust, Portsmouth) 28 Appendix 4: Report on the boat remains from John M. MacAulay – Traditional Boatbuilder (Flodabay, Isle of Harris, Scotland) 29 Page – 1 List of Illustrations: Page: Figure 1 - Location maps for the island of Eigg and Galmisdale Bay 4 Figure 2 - RCAHMS 1:2000 plot of Galmisdale Bay and visible boat remains 5 Figure 3 - Photograph showing Galmisdale Bay, Kildonnan Farm and site of boat remains 9 Figure 4 - Strake detail showing square nail hole and caulking residue 10 Figure 5 - Plans of the boat remains off Galmisdale Pier (1:200) 11 Figure 6 - Stern deadwood and attached strake 13 Figure 7 - Stem deadwood and keel scarf joint 13 Figure 8 - Stern deadwood from the SW and garboard strake 14 Figure 9 - Profiles of the stern and stem deadwood members 14 Figure 10 - A view of frame timbers amidships 16 Figure 11 - View of displaced strake towards the stern of the boat remains 16 Figure 12 - A view of exposed frames above the line of the keel 17 Figure 13 - Detailed image of frame timber 18 Figure 14 - Detailed image of frame timber 18 Figure 15 - Detailed image of frame timber 18 Figure 16 - A view of the exposed frames and strakes amidships with details of obscured features 21 Figure 17 – A general view of the wreck site in Galmisdale Harbour 22 Figure 18 – Placing sandbags around exposed frames on the port side of the remains 26 Figure 19 – Image showing recently exposed structural timber showing quality of preservation 26 Photo Credits: Figures 4, 18 and 19, courtesy of George Brown (Highland Council Diving Unit – Inverness). Page – 2 The Preliminary Recording of a Wreck off Galmisdale Pier, Island of Eigg 1 Introduction 1.1 This interim report presents data, both historical and archaeological, regarding the remains of a wooden-built boat identified off Galmisdale Pier on the island of Eigg – NGR NG 4849 8388. The desk-based research and archaeological assessment of the boat remains was undertaken on behalf of Highland Council Roads and Transport Department, in advance of construction works for a new causeway and pier facility for the island (see Part 1, Appendix 6 and Fig.1). 2 Background 2.1 The boat remains off Galmisdale Pier were initially reported to personnel from the Royal Commission for the Ancient and Historic Monuments of Scotland (RCAHMS) in the spring of 2001, by a local fisherman from the island. Communication between the fisherman and the Royal Commission had suggested that the boat remains only became visible during very low spring tides and in conjunction with shifting sediments within the bay, and that there had only been two recorded sightings during the last century – the last being some forty years ago (RCAHMS, 2001 pers. comm..). During the exposure of the boat remains from the sand during 2001 Brig Lancaster, a carpenter on the island of Eigg, had also briefly inspected the exposed timbers. He suggested that the boat was clinker-built and was held together using wooden pegs, with no iron nails visible. 2.1.1 Fieldwork on the island of Eigg during October 2001 by the RCAHMS coincided with the re-exposure of the boat remains due to very low spring tides. The Royal Commission used this opportunity to make a preliminary inspection of the boat and also completed a survey of any relevant features exposed above seabed level. The survey was carried out during low tide conditions, but with around 0.3 metres of water still overlying the site. The results of the 1:2000 plot of the boat remains are shown in Fig.2 and clearly show a number of structural timbers, some possibly articulated. A total of 10 frames (ribs) were recorded along with other structural elements including strakes (planks) and a part of the stem and stern areas. 2.1.2 Prior to the RCAHMS visit to the site in the autumn of 2001 Brig Lancaster, the local carpenter on Eigg, retrieved one of the strakes that was lying detached from the boat remains, along with an iron concretion. The strake was described as being ‘quite broad for a boat timber, hand finished, with a wooden dowel driven into it’. Unfortunately, the concretion was broken open before a detailed analysis could be carried out, the results of which revealed the remains of an iron hammer (RCAHMS, October 2001, pers. omm..). Upon a closer examination of this find at the Museum of Scotland, staff identified the remains of an iron axe within the concretion. Page – 3 0 1km Fig.1 – Location maps for the island of Eigg and Galmisdale Bay. For detail, see Fig.2. (Crown Copyright – Ordnance Survey) Page – 4 Fig.2 – Preliminary survey of the boat remains off Galmisdale Pier by the RCAHMS, 2001 – 1:2000 plot (by kind permission of Dr. Alex Hale, RCAHMS) Page – 5 2.1.3 Local tradition on Eigg and documentary sources brought together by Camille Dressler, a prominent member of the community on Eigg and author of Eigg: The Story of an Island (1998), suggests that the boat remains may be related to the loss of the Dubh Ghleannach. Wrecked off Kildonnan Point (at the mouth of Galmisdale Bay) in October 1817, the possible birlinn or galley was built for Captain Alexander Ruadh MacDonald 10th of Glenaladale, the builder of the Glenfinnan Monument, which was erected to mark the raising of the Jacobite Standard in 1745. 2.1.4 During the October evening in 1817, An Dubh Ghleannach (the Black One of the Glens) was sailing from Arisaig to Galmisdale Bay on Eigg. The boat was carrying Dr. Donald MacAskill of Kildonan Farm on Eigg, the parish surgeon for Arisaig, the Small Isles, Barra and South Uist and the Estate representative for the island. Also on board there were Angus Og of Gruline on Eigg, several other men from the Mainland, including a tailor and young lad from Arisaig, and a cow. It seems that Dr. MacAskill and his companions had earlier sailed over to the Mainland to attend the autumn cattle fair in Arisaig, but instead of returning with his nephew Allan (the tacksman of Laig on Eigg), he chose to come back later in the evening on the Dubh Ghleannach (Dressler, 1998:66). 2.1.5 Upon entering Poll nam Partan near Kildonan, while the boat was tacking into a strong wind, she was ‘taken aback’, the sail struck the mast and the boat turned over and quickly sank (MacKinnon,1974:256-61). Cries of help were heard in the darkness from Kildonan House, but there were no signs of the boat. The people from Kildonan quickly launched a small boat and went out towards where they had heard the cries. Angus Og of Gruline was found swimming ashore, while they found the lad from Arisaig drowned and came across a second survivor (the tailor) who had held on to the cow’s tail as it swam towards the shore. Unfortunately, everyone else on board the boat drowned and the doctor’s body was recovered the next day. He had died of a heart attack after trying to swim ashore in his heavy blue cloak. There is no further mention in these references regarding if the wreck of the boat was ever found or recovered. 2.1.6 The boat and its owner were commemorated in Gaelic poetry by Alasdair MacKinnon, the following lines taken from the archives of the School of Scottish Studies, University of Edinburgh (1974:250-57): One day as I walked by the shore, I heard the warlike music of the Gaels: I recognised the sweet fingering of the man from the Braes, On a fine chanter of vigorous note, And I knew that the hero had put to sea, The builder of noble stately towers. It was the Dubh Ghleannach (the Black One of the Glens) H6-ro Gheallaibh, who else could sail her? Row hard and sing! Page – 6 How I loved the vigour of these stylish tunes With regular ground and cuttings: Close-knit, agile, steady, flawless, The variations of the resonant strains That would stir the kinsfolk to the marrow: Be the heritage of the slender dark blue blades yours! It was the Dubh Ghleannach etc. And then I saw the black, beautiful Druimineach, The ship of Alisdair of the glens of the Rough Bounds, Like a Royal steed on the wave-crests Moving out from the land, with its blazoned silk banners, The Royal Arms of Scotland That would inspire thousands to manly deeds: It was the Dubh Ghleannach etc. The only other reference we have of any similar sized vessel being lost in the bay is that of a fishing smack sometime during the late 19th century (Brig Lancaster pers. comm.), however, we have found it difficult to find any further evidence regarding this loss.