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Home , Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, Arisaig, Cape Wrath, Eigg, Galmisdale, Hyskeir

N MOD Range Danger Area p.94 Cape Wrath p.94 8. Northwest Mainland Point of Stoer to Cape Wrath 30’ p.134 Loch p.93 Eriboll Depths in Metres Loch Inchard 0 10 20 30 p.93 Handa Is p.91 Loch Laxford Nautical Miles p.92 Eddrachilles Bay p.86 Kylesku p.89 LEWIS Point of Stoer p.75 s e id Enard Bay p.83 r b Lochinver p.84 e Ru Coigeach p.75 H

r The North Minch e t

58˚N u p.80

O

Ullapool p.79

HARRIS Rubha Reidh p.75 6. Sound of p.78 and approaches p.106 Loch Ewe p.77 Eilean 7. Northwest Mainland Trodday p.35 Loch p.70 Rubha Reidh to Point 10 The Little Minch of Stoer p.59 Badachro p.71 p.118 Loch Snizort 2 Uig p.39 5 N . p.38 p Loch Torridon p.67

Rona d p.57 n u 5. The Inner Sound 30’ o S p.87 r Off Neist e Poll Creadha p.65 p.37 n Point TSS n I 10 Raasay Neist Point p.55 p.54 Loch Carron p.60 pp.29, 35 Skye Plockton p.60 Loch p.33 Kyle of p.51 Loch Scalpay p.53 S UIST Harport p.34 p.49 Loch Scavaig p.32 Kyle Rhea 3. West Coast p.47 Sound of p.40 of Skye Loch Hourn p.43 p.53 Soay p.33 10 4. Isle Omsay p.41 Canna p.28 and p.42 p.70 Oigh Sgeir Point of 57˚ Sleat p.29 Rum p.27 p.23 Tarbert Bay p.42 The Sea of p.21 The p.26 Loch 2. The Muck p.24 Ceann p.19 p.42 Traigh p.12 Loch p.14 1. Sanna Bay p.11 to Mallaig Ardnamurchan p.10 p.16

30’ 7˚W 30’ Mull 6˚ 30’5˚ 30’ Contents

Preface 2 Introduction 4

1 Ardnamurchan to Mallaig 2 The Small Isles 3 West coast of Skye 4 Sound of Sleat and Loch Alsh 5 The Inner Sound 6 Sound of Raasay and Approaches 7 Northwest Mainland - Rubha Reidh to Point of Stoer 8 Northwest Mainland - Point of Stoer to Cape Wrath Appendix Index 2. The Small Isles

Canna Sanday Fl.10s9M p.51 Sound of Canna Point of Humla Loch p.48 Sleat Rock Scresort Fl.3s20m9M Fl.G.6s (5) G Rum

Oigh p.49 Sgeir The Small Isles Fl(3)30s41m24M Racon m MillRocks u R f o d n u o S

Eigg

Eilean So un Chathastail d o N f E Fl.6s24m8M ig p.45 g p.46 Muck

p.43 Bo Faskadale 0 5 G Fl(3)G.18s AIS Nautical Miles THE SMALL ISLES

ebb reach a rate of 4kns in places, particularly east of The Small Isles Eigg, between Muck and Eigg, and around the rocks A group of four islands, Rum, Eigg, Muck and between Canna and Hyskeir. Heavy overfalls occur Admiralty Chart wherever there are relatively shallow banks and steep 2207, 2208 Canna, between Ardnamurchan and Skye, seas are reflected off the west point of Rum in strong Admiralty Leisure Folio each inhabited by a small community and each westerly winds. Around the islands the streams turn 5616.1, 16, 12 of very different character. approximately as follows: Imray Chart All the islands provide anchorage but the C65, C66 The north-going (flood) stream begins +0600 degree of shelter depends very much on the (+0140 Dover) 39 prevailing weather conditions. Only the most The south-going (ebb) stream begins HW Ullapool Cruising northwesterly island, Canna, gives good shelter (–0420 Dover). pp.123-129 in all wind directions and it makes an ideal Dangers staging post on the way to the . 1 Many drying rocks extend up to ⁄4 mile off the Tides shores of the Small Isles so that the chart must On the west side of Eigg the constant averages be carefully studied before approaching the –0048 Ullapool (–0508 Dover). shore. Height in metres Banks and rocks east and southeast of Eigg MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS and Muck are described in the previous 4·7 3·5 2·6 1·6 0·5 chapter (p.17) dealing with the passage Among the Small Isles the flood stream runs generally between Ardnamurchan and Mallaig. northwestwards and northwards, and both flood and

42 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. The Small Isles

In the passage between Muck and Eigg, six cables north of Muck, Godag is a group of Muck rocks of which the most southerly is above Plantation water, with drying and submerged rocks up to three cables further north. Southwest of Canna there are several rocks Two wind farm masts between Canna and Hyskeir (Oigh Sgeir) and Port Mor Dir.Fl.WRG. there is some doubt as to the completeness of 3s7m14-11M the survey here. Marks RoRo Pier 5 The best identification is the shape of the and slip N islands themselves. Rum is high and 28 mountainous; Eigg has the long ridge of the Dn Rhu a Chroisein Sgurr lying on an east-west axis at its south end 2F.G (vert) which from the east looks like a rock pinnacle. R Good use can be made of transits of the 10 3 edges of any two islands, and this is Depths in Metres 3 12 particularly valuable as there are several 5 ˚ R 2 8 2 magnetic anomalies in the area. 4 3 r Dubh G to c Lights Sgeir Bogha Ruadeh s Ardnamurchan Fl.20s55m24M Perch W 94 f Eigg (SE point of Eilean Chathastail) Fl.6s24m8M G Fl.G.5s o R e tr Canna (E end of Sanday) Fl.10s32m9M Perch n e Hyskeir (Oigh Sgeir) Fl(3)30s41m24M Fl(2)R.10s C Bo Faskadale buoy 6M NE of Ardnamurchan Fl(3)G.18s Isle of Muck Muck is an attractive island to visit and has Bo na Fionnard 0 3 Cables been run successfully as an agricultural estate (23) by the McEwen family for very many years. Depending on the weather forecast, one of PORT MOR, MUCK its two anchorages should provide adequate Anchor age shelter. Port Mor is well marked and lit for the Anchor on the west side of the inlet, well clear new terminal, although space for yachts of the ferry terminal and fairway leading to it. Admiralty Chart to anchor is reduced. 2207 Small shoal-draught boats may find space to Admiralty Leisure Folio Port Mor dry out in complete shelter behind the L- 5616.1 shaped stone jetty at the head of the inlet. Imray Chart Situated at the southeast side of the island, C65 Port Mor is the main harbour but the rocks at Lights Ordnance Survey the entrance do not completely protect it from Port Entry Ligh t DirFl.WRG.3s9m14/11M 322º 39 Cruising Scotland any sea from the south. Port-hand perch Fl(2)R.10s4m3M Starboard-hand perch Fl.G.5s4m3M p.124 Entry through the narrow channel between Ro-Ro pier head 2F.G(vert)7m2M the rocks used to rely on a transit that was difficult to discern but new buoys and perches Supplies for the Ro-Ro ferry have made it much easier. Shop, tea room and restaurant ( ✆01687 462990) sells homemade food and crafts. Port Port Mor, Muck with Directions the mountains of Rum Mor House Hotel ( ✆01687 462365) and the From the south steer northeast to pass beyond (see also aerial restaurant serve dinner but book in advance. photo overleaf) southeast of Muck until it is clear open southwest of Eigg. Port Mor can be identified by the two wind turbines at the east end of the Edward Mason island. Identify the two outer perches and, bringing the wind turbines fine on the starboard bow and heading 322°, pass between the perches and then a pair of inner buoys. From the southwest keep well offshore to avoid Bo na Fionnard (dries 2·3m) which 1 extends 1 ⁄2 cables south of Muck. From the east or northeast, keep the east shore of Muck open of the west shore of Eigg, bearing 360° astern, until the approach is identified, to clear Bogha Ruadh, and steer 322° as above.

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 43 Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath

Martin Lawrence

Port Mor, Muck taken while the new ferry terminal was being constructed

Gallanach Bay, Muck, from north-northwest. Bo Haund is just visible in the middle of the mouth of the bay

Martin Lawrence

44 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. The Small Isles

Gallanach Bay Gallanach Bay is an attractive anchorage on the 0 3 Cables north side of Muck with a sandy and ext) ee t impressive views of the mountains of Rum. 1 S ( ˚ ( S 6 250 5 e However, it can be dangerous to enter and is ˚ e En nan Each ( N a t untenable in northerly winds. (Horse e p x p t Island) r ) o

x Tides ) Tides run at 4kns at springs in the Sound of Eigg, between Bo Eigg and Muck, as well as on the west side of Muck, but Haund less strongly across the mouth of the bay itself. Lamb Is 5 (13) Depths in Metres Dangers 2 2 5 Horse Island (Eilean nan Each) is attached to 7 the northwest point of Muck by drying reefs. Gallanach Bay Godag , a 2m high above-water rock six cables 4 Ard nan north of Muck, about a mile east of Horse Eur 12 1 4 Island, has drying and submerged rocks ⁄ mile (02) north of it. 3 Drying reefs extend several cables northwest from the east point of the bay. Bo Haund , a detached reef which dries 1·3m, lies in the middle of the entrance. Farm Directions Port Mor From the east pass south of Godag rocks, a drying reef 6 cables north of Muck, giving Muck them a moderate berth and approach towards the north end of Lamb Island keeping the south Wall end of Horse Island, which is identifiable as a GALLANACH BAY, small vertical rock face when seen from the Do not go south o f the no rthern point of Lamb MUCK northeast, on a bearing of 250° (see plan). Island until the leading line is positively Alter course gradually to clear extensive Admiralty Chart identified and do not attempt to enter Gallanach 2207 reefs on the east side of the bay until the Bay using a chart plotter based on Admiralty Admiralty Leisure Folio leading line to pass between Bo Haund and chart 2207 as Bo Haund is not accurately 5616.1 the reefs is identified. located on this comparitively small scale chart. Imray Chart This is best recognised by reference to the C65 photograph at the foot of this page. It can also Anchorage Ordnance Survey 39 be described as the stone wall (conspicuous on Anchor SSE of Bo Haund in 4m, sand. Cruising Scotland the skyline and which appears like the left edge Alternatively anchor further in, north or p.124 of a very small cliff) in line with the highest northwest of the tidal islet at the head of the part of the barn with the red curved roof. For bay, but note the rock (drying 0·2m) on the identification purposes, the bearing is west side of the bay and a 1·2m patch approximately 165° but when entering it is northwest of it. Anchor in 3m, sand, with weed better to follow the transit rather than steer a patches. Keep clear of moorings for local boats. compass course. Supplies The passage west of Bo Haund is not The approach to Gallanach Bay, Muck. advisable without local knowledge but it has At Port Mor (p.43) which is about a mile away. The mast of the centre been surveyed by Antares Charts and can be yacht is almost on the readily used with their chart and a GPS plotter. leading line

Edward Mason

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 45 Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath

Tides Admiralty Chart Isle of Eigg 2207 Eigg is the most easterly of the Small Isles and Constant averages +0132 Ullapool (–0508 Dover) Admiralty Leisure Folio has a population of around 70, most of whom Height in metres 5616.16 live at the northwest side of the island. MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS Imray Chart 4·7 3·5 2·6 1·6 0·5 C65 The main anchorage lies at the southeast Ordnance Survey side, in the channel between Eigg and Eilean The tide runs strongly through the anchorage, the flood running northwards, turning south two hours before 39 Chathastail, but the shelter is not very good. A Cruising Scotland HW. Off the east side of Eigg streams run at 4kns at p.125 drying berth is provided alongside the north springs, causing a heavy sea with wind against tide, and side of the ferry terminal. making approach from the east difficult. Directions To house on hill From the south keep two cables off the Ru na Crannaig southwest point of Eilean Chathastail (Eilean Castle), a 35m high, grass-covered island with a white light beacon on its southeast side, to

02 avoid the drying reefs there. Rubha na Crannaig, the east point of Eigg, open west of

17 the north point of Eilean Chathastail 028° leads clear of these reefs (see photo opposite).

28 Alternatively enter from the south by the east Eigg Poll nam Partan side of Eilean Chathastail, keeping clear of the east shore of the island, as a reef and an isolated 41 1 2 rock extend one cable offshore. Then pass close 6 3 31 3˚ inshore to clear Garbh Sgeir. Flod 5 From the east identify the perch on Flod Sgeir 6 1 5˚ Sgeir and pass ⁄4 cable southeast of it heading 24 Perch or Fl(2)G.10s ect southwest for the head of the Ro-Ro pier, then 04 s G f W e o south towards Point. ntr Ce Perch Anchorages Fl.R.5s Perch G 42 Southwest of Galmisdale Poin t can be used R Perch R Dir.Fl.WRG.3s Garbh Sgeir in winds between north and east. Anchor Yacht wall RoRo Pier (09) clear of reefs which dry one cable from the northwest side, and also out of the strong tide 2 (46) in the narrows. North end of Eilean Chathastail . There is not Moorings 2 Galmisdale Point usually space to anchor near the old pier owing 3 Old Pier to the moorings, and there is a risk of fouling 4 ground tackle. Soundings in this area may decrease due to siltation following the 6 construction of the new ferry terminal. A yacht berth drying about 1·5m has been 5 incorporated in the north side of the causeway at the ferry terminal. The approach channel to this berth from the east is marked by single unlit red and green perches and also dries 1·5m. 11 SSW of Garbh Sgeir gives shelter in westerlies under the lee of Eilean Castle. If approaching 5 5 from the northwest keep close to the island to 7 En Chathastail (Eilean Castle) avoid a drying reef south of Garbh Sgeir. 5 1 Poll nam Partan , ⁄2 mile north of Eilean 12 Chathastail, has a depth of 4m at the deepest part. It is less affected by tide and is clear of Lt Bn Fl.6s8M moorings and the ferry. The approach from the south dries in places

.35 and is not recommended but the approach from the southeast has a minimum depth of N about 3m at LW if the leading line (313°) shown on the plan and photograph opposite is followed. The rock north-northeast of Flod Sgeir is awash at chart datum and should be visible above half tide. Anchor on sand, clear 0 2 Cables Depths in Metres of rock or weed, wherever depth and swinging room can be found. GALMISDALE, EIGG

46 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages

2. The Small Isles

Approaching Poll nam Partan, Eigg. The house on the hill, which should bear 313°, is just to the right of the forestay

Edward Mason

None of these anchorages is tenable in heavy Eigg, approaching from weather, and yachts should clear out in good the southwest. The time if strong winds are forecast. leading line to clear reefs on the west side of Bay of Laig on the northwest side of Eigg Eilean Chathastail is the provides occasional anchorage in offshore island open of Eigg winds. Approach from the west along the south shore of the bay keeping 2 cables off. Avoid the north side of bay which is foul with rocks. Anchor in 2-8m firm sand avoiding the cables shown on chart 2207. The bay is notable for its ‘singing sands’ in certain conditions. Supplies and services At Galmisdale: Water, Calor gas, restaurant, Below: Eigg, Galmisdale from northwest near shop & PO at jetty; showers, telephone. HW. The drying yacht to Mallaig and Arisaig. berth is about the centre Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust ✆01687 482486 Martin Lawrence of the photo

Patrick Roach

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 47 Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath

Rubha na N Dangers Roinne Off the north point of Rum several drying rocks and a reported depth of 0.6m lie up to 4 10 cables from the land; these are avoided by 11 keeping well outwith the 15m contour. 85 Depths in Metres At the west point of Rum drying reefs 5 64 Loch Scresort Castle Q extend one cable from the shore, and any sea Stone BY from the west is reflected and becomes 2F.R(vert) 7 pier 6 particularly steep and confused. Rum 10 RoRo pier Anchorages Loch Scresort , an inlet more than a mile long 0 5 Cables Rubha Port na on the east side of the island, is the main Caranean anchorage. The loch shoals very gradually towards the head and is subject to violent LOCH SCRESORT, RUM squalls in strong westerly winds and swell with easterly winds. Good holding, but considerable Isle of Rum care is required to ensure that the anchor is Rum is a mountainous island northwest of Admiralty Chart well set to avoid dragging due to heavy kelp. 1 2208 Eigg with many high and shapely peaks, whose Drying reefs extending nearly ⁄4 mile from Admiralty Leisure Folio names are of Viking origin. Owned by Scottish the south shore at the entrance are marked by 5616.12, 16 Natural Heritage, the island is the home of red a north cardinal light buoy, and there are Imray Chart deer, and the Whitetailed Sea Eagle has bred C66 drying rocks close inshore on the north side. Ordnance Survey there for some years. The western cliffs are Keep well off the south shore on entry and 39 very high and the home of numerous sea birds. anchor between the Ro-Ro slip and the stone Cruising Scotland Several nature trails radiate from Kinloch pier further west, or anywhere, clear of the p.126 Castle, an Edwardian mansion built by former ferry, where suitable soundings can be found. owners of the island, which is now run as a Camus na h’Atha In easterlies there is an hostel. Visitors to the island are welcome and occasional anchorage in the sandy bay on the there are now few restrictions on exploring the northeast side of A’Bhrideanach, the westmost island. Guided walks are available. The hostel point of Rum. There is a rock off each point of can provide meals given some notice; the castle the bay, but it is otherwise clean. It is suspected is completely furnished in period style and that there may be boulders on the sea bed and includes a working orchestrion. Tours are a tripping line should be used. arranged daily; check times in advance. Supplies Tides Water, toilets and showers at the campsite, PO Rum has a spectacular Constant averages +0132 Ullapool (–0508 Dover) silhouette from almost and shop (open 1700-1900), any direction. Here it is Height in metres (✆01687 462 037) open to visitors at certain seen from Arisaig with MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS times, Showers also available at hostel near Eigg on the left 4·7 3·5 2·6 1·6 0·5 castle.

Gillian Dinsmore

48 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. The Small Isles

Hyskeir (Oigh Sgeir) N A group of low islets five miles southwest of Canna with a white lighthouse 39m high. It is rarely visited by yachts as it offers only temporary anchorage in very settled weather when there is no swell. Depths in Metres 0 2

Dangers Cables Humla Rock , 5m high, lying between Hyskeir 65 3 and Canna, has a green conical light buoy 4 11 8 (Fl.G.6s) on its southwest side. Submerged 5 4 rocks and shoals lie around Humla, and 36 between that rock and Canna. The usual passage from Ardnamurchan to lies between Hyskeir and the Humla buoy. 1 10 Mill Rocks , 2 ⁄4 miles southwest of Hyskeir, have depths of less than 2m. For a further three miles southwest seas break in strong winds owing to the uneven bottom. The north point 16 of Eigg just open of the south point of Rum 1 085° leads 1 ⁄2 miles south of the Mill Rocks. HYSKEIR (OIGH SGEIR) Directions Pass one cable west of the north end of Hyskeir and steer 170° to keep open the narrow channel between Hyskeir and Garbh Sgeir on its west side, to avoid a drying rock in the bay northwest of the lighthouse. Many rocks lie off the south end of the channel, so that an approach from that direction should not be attempted. Anchorage Anchor where shown on the plan, just before the channel narrows. The bottom is sand. The landing place (which is no longer maintained by the NLB) is on the east side of the channel between Hyskeir and Garbh Sgeir. There are three mooring rings on Garbh Sgeir opposite the landing place. Thomasina alongside the steps at Hyskeir on a very rare quiet day. Note that the NLB can accept no responsibility for damage or injury Martin Lawrence associated with any unauthorised landing

Hyskeir from the south- southeast. Drying rocks Martin Lawrence lie in the bay northwest of the lighthouse

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 49 Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath

John Anderson

Canna Harbour with Rum in the background Isle of Canna A rock which just dries, four cables Canna, the most westerly of the Small Isles, is a southwest of the entrance, is cleared by keeping Admiralty Chart Sgeirean Dubha in line with the summit of 2208, 1795 delightful island with a well sheltered natural harbour, often used by yachts on passage to the Compass Hill bearing 051°. Pass between Admiralty Leisure Folio Sgeirean Dubha and the rock northwest of it 5616.12 Outer Hebrides. Its climate is better than its Imray Chart neighbours, having no mountains to the west, which covers at HW. C66 and it has white sandy . Tarbert Bay lies a mile west of Sanday, Ordnance Survey Canna was presented to the National Trust southeast of a dip in the skyline of Canna. It is 39 shown only on chart 1795 at a small scale and Cruising Scotland for Scotland by John Lorne Campbell, its p.129 owner for many years. provides temporary anchorage in offshore winds and if swell is absent. Tides Identify Haslam (named only on OS Constant averages +0132 Ullapool (–0508 Dover) Explorer map 397), an islet three cables off Height in metres Canna, rather closer to the west side of the bay 1 MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS than to Sanday. Keep at least ⁄4 mile off Haslam 4·7 3·5 2·6 1·6 0·5 and approach the bay, keeping closer to its Dangers west side than to Haslam. Anchor towards the northeast side of the bay, clear of rocks. Rocks off the north coast of Rum, referred to 1 on p.48, must be avoided by keeping at least ⁄2 Canna Harbour mile off shore or outwith the 15m contour. This provides the best shelter in the Small Isles The north side of Canna is clean beyond a Much of the harbour dries or is shallow but cable from the shore but the south side has there is still plenty of space for the many yachts many offlying rocks and islets. Between Canna who choose to visit the island. and Hyskeir lie Belle Rock, Jemima Rock and Inside the harbour on the southwest side of the Humla Rock (p.49) for which chart 1795 Rubha Carrinnis, the north point of the must be consulted. Chart 2208 should be used entrance, is a concrete pier and ferry terminal. if approaching the southeast side of Canna and The ferry slip is built over a drying rock which the 1.25,000 OS Explorer map 397 is very extends over 50m southwest of the slipway. helpful for recognising features onshore. There is a perch on this rock but it is by no Anchorages means at its extremity There are two minor anchorages on the south Directions coast of Canna which can be explored in Approach from the northeast leaving Sgeir a’ suitable conditions Phuirt, an extensive reef (drying 4·6m) marked Canna Boat Harbour The bay between the by a port hand buoy (Fl.R2s), well to port. At west end of Sanday and the south side of Canna night leading lights on Sanday can be followed provides a temporary anchorage in very quiet until Rubha Carrinnis light bears due north. weather. There are many rocks in the approach Keep to the southern half of the entrance to and Sgeirean Dubha, 2m high, in the middle of avoid the rock southwest of the slipway. This the entrance, is the key to the approach.

50 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. The Small Isles

White Canna House cottage N Canna (in trees) ˚ 33 Cottage 2 ne 5 li Church in s Double cottage Canna Lt Harbour Farm Ferry Depths in Metres Pier V 2F.G Rubha Perch (vert) Carinnis Fl.G.3s

V 5 Fl.R.2s R 5

Church 5 Sgeir a’Phuirt (converted)

Ldg Lts Q & Iso 5

5 5 Sanday 5

0 5 Cables Lt Bn Fl.10s32m9M

CANNA HARBOUR can be avoided by keeping a conspicuous Anchorage cottage on the hillside open southwest of the There are now 10 new visitors’ moorings southwest e nd of a pair of cottages on the shore. which have been laid around the perimeter of The harbour shoals gradually towards the the harbour, leaving space for anchoring in the northwest shore, with a sandy bottom centre. The moorings are owned and although there is also much weed. administered by the Canna Community Compass Hill at the northeast point of Moorings Association who charge £10 per Canna causes abnormal magnetic variation to night for their use. Honesty box at pier. the east of Canna. If anchoring, extensive heavy kelp may Lights cause difficulty and perseverance is necessary Sanday light beacon Fl.10s32m9M to obtain good holding. Leading lights on Sanday bearing 233º (Q & Iso.4s) Supplies Sgeir a’Phuirt R can light buo y Fl.R.2s Rubha Carrinnis Fl.G.3s No supplies. Tearoom/Restaurant by the shore Lights at the pier , 2F.G(vert). (✆01687 460164) may be re-opened in 2014.

Canna Harbour and ferry Patrick Roach terminal from the northwest

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 51