IC GROUP ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY 1 FINANCIAL HIGHLIGHTS AND KEY RATIOS 2 THE GROUP IN SHORT 3 FINANCIAL FACTS 2016/17 4 MANAGEMENT’S LETTER 6 OUTLOOK 7 STRATEGY AND GROUP STRUCTURE 10 BUSINESS SEGMENTS 24 CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL REVIEW 26 RISK MANAGEMENT 28 CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY 29 CORPORATE GOVERNANCE 30 EXECUTIVE TEAM AND BOARD OF DIRECTORS 35 SHAREHOLDER INFORMATION
CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 38 CONSOLIDATED INCOME STATEMENT 39 CONSOLIDATED STATEMENT OF COMPREHENSIVE INCOME 40 CONSOLIDATED STATEMENT OF FINANCIAL POSITION 41 CONSOLIDATED STATEMENT OF CHANGES IN EQUITY 42 CONSOLIDATED STATEMENT OF CASH FLOWS 44 NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
PARENT COMPANY FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 82 INCOME STATEMENT 82 STATEMENT OF COMPREHENSIVE INCOME 83 STATEMENT OF FINANCIAL POSITION 84 STATEMENT OF CHANGES IN EQUITY 85 STATEMENT OF CASH FLOWS 86 NOTES TO THE PARENT COMPANY FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
STATEMENTS 96 STATEMENT BY THE MANAGEMENT 97 THE INDEPENDENT AUDITOR’S REPORT
GROUP STRUCTURE AND KEY RATIOS 100 GROUP STRUCTURE 101 DEFINITION OF KEY RATIOS FINANCIAL HIGHLIGHTS AND KEY RATIOS
DKK million 2016/17 2015/16 2014/15 2013/14 2012/131)
INCOME STATEMENT Revenue 2,749 2,665 2,638 2,563 2,424 Gross profit 1,519 1,513 1,446 1,470 1,371 Operating profit before depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) 205 306 263 284 255 Operating profit (EBIT) 125 243 207 221 191 Net financials (3) (7) (8) (5) (13) Profit for the year before tax 122 247 201 216 178 Profit for the year of continuing operations 92 192 154 160 138 Profit/loss for the year of discontinued operations - 3 (14) 5 (134) Profit for the year 92 195 140 165 4
STATEMENT OF FINANCIAL POSITION Total assets 1,393 1,444 1,852 1,854 2,022 Average invested capital including goodwill 772 736 659 708 914 Net working capital 318 314 268 314 279 Total equity 723 740 884 833 809 Non-controlling interest 10 7 5 4 4 Net interest-bearing debt, end of year 17 25 82 52 118
STATEMENT OF CASH FLOWS Cash flow from operating activities 175 183 226 264 232 Cash flow from investing activities (88) 55 15 (91) (167) Investments in property, plant and equipment (72) (81) (45) (77) (58) Free cash flow 87 238 241 173 65 Cash flow from financing activities (79) (319) (172) (109) (35) Net cash flow for the year 8 (81) 69 64 30
KEY RATIOS (%) Revenue growth 3.2 1.0 2.9 5.7 5.5 Gross margin 55.3 56.8 54.8 57.3 56.6 Cost ratio 50.7 47.7 47.0 49.3 48.7 EBITDA margin 7.5 11.5 10.0 11.0 10.5 EBIT margin 4.5 9.1 7.8 8.6 7.9 Tax rate 24.0 22.2 23.2 25.8 22.5 Return on equity 12.2 23.5 18.0 19.5 16.9 Equity ratio 51.9 51.2 47.5 45.3 40.0 Return on invested capital, 12 months trailing EBIT2) 16.2 33.0 31.4 31.2 20.9 Net working capital in proportion to 12 months trailing revenue 11.6 11.8 10.2 12.3 11.5 Cash conversion 0.7 1.0 1.2 0.8 0.3 Financial gearing 2.4 3.4 9.3 6.3 14.6
SHARE-BASED RATIOS Average number of shares excluding treasury shares, diluted (thousands) 16,639 16,678 16,550 16,447 16,402 Share price, end of year, DKK 140.0 172.0 187.5 185.5 122.0 Earnings per share, DKK 5.3 11.6 8.5 9.9 0.1 Diluted earnings per share, DKK 5.3 11.6 8.5 9.9 0.1 Diluted cash flow per share, DKK 10.5 11.0 13.7 18.2 14.2 Diluted net asset value per share, DKK 42.9 44.0 53.1 50.3 49.1 Diluted price/earnings, DKK 26.4 14.8 22.1 18.7 1,220.0
EMPLOYEES Number of employees, calculated as FTEs, end of year 1,186 1,146 1,042 1,047 1,264 NUMBER OF STORES (OWN STORES) Retail stores 126 115 95 107 102 Concessions 43 42 42 41 42
The key ratios have been calculated according to the recommendations set out in ”Recommendations & Financial Ratios 2016” issued by the Danish Society of Financial Analysts.
1) Comparative figures in the income statement have been adjusted to reflect that the Mid Market division has been presented as discontinued operations. Other key ratios for 2012/13 have not been adjusted. 2) Return on invested capital is calculated as EBIT’s share of invested capital, cf. definition of key ratios on page 101.
1 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY IC GROUP
THE GROUP IN SHORT AMBITION
IC Group operates in the apparel and fashion industry. As a portfolio company, we The ambition of the Group Premium create value through an active ownership of brands within the Premium segment. brands is to generate revenue growth, We focus on this market segment as it has historically been characterized by strong and thereby also for the Group as a growth rates and high earnings. This segment is also characterized by a conside- whole. Concurrently with the expected rable degree of internationalization which is also the strategic target of all of the higher revenue, it is also our ambition to Group Premium brands. improve the EBIT margin.
PREMIUM BRANDS
Peak Performance was founded in With its strong roots in classic menswear Since its foundation in 2003, By Malene Sweden in 1986 by passionate skiers. confection tradition and proud tailoring skills, Birger has been recognized as a high- Today, Peak Performance is the largest Tiger of Sweden has, since 1903, developed profile design brand with an international brand in Scandinavia developing into the largest confection and fashion brand appeal offering ”affordable luxury” technical, functional sports and in the Nordic region distinguishing itself by to fashion-conscious women. Today, fashion wear. offering modern apparel to men and women the brand is one of the largest female characterized by ”a different cut”. fashion brands in the Nordic region. peakperformance.com tigerofsweden.com bymalenebirger.com
Re enue and EBIT margin Re enue and EBIT margin Re enue and EBIT margin DKK million % DKK million % DKK million % 1,250 15 1,250 15 400 15
1,100 12 1,100 12 350 12
950 9 950 9 300 9
800 6 800 6 250 6
650 3 650 3 200 3
500 0 500 0 150 0 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17
Revenue EBIT margin Revenue EBIT margin Revenue EBIT margin
OTHER BRANDS
BRAND MARKET EQUITY REVENUE EBIT MARGIN SEGMENT INTEREST DKK MILLION SAINT TROPEZ FAST FASHION – FEMALE 100% DESIGNERS REMIX PREMIUM – FEMALE 51% 400 2.5%
2 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY PEAK PERFORMANCE MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • IC GROUP A/S THE GROUP FACTS 2016/17FINANCIAL 4.5% MARGIN EBIT DKK MILLION REVENUE 101 DKK MILLION EBIT 1,035 DKK MILLION REVENUE 125 DKK MILLION E 4.3% LOCAL CURRENCY INGROWTH 2,749 WHOLESALE G BIT Re o e or 3 Nor re on 66
9.8% MARGIN EBIT 11.6% LOCAL CURRENCY INGROWTH Re o Europe 31
RETAIL TIGER OFSWEDEN G 17 DEBT, DKKMILLION NET INTEREST-BEARING WHOLESALE DKK MILLION FREE CASH FLOW 11.6% RELATIVE TOREVENUE NET WORKING CAPITAL 16.2% CAPITALINVESTED RETURN ON 87 DKK MILLION REVENUE 67 DKK MILLION EBIT 963 Re o e or 3 Nor re on 79
Re o Europe 18 7.0% MARGIN EBIT 0.6% LOCAL CURRENCY INGROWTH
RETAIL 37% E IT R B M ene B r er 1 Pe Per or n e 56 B M ene B r er 12 Pe Per or n e 38 BY MALENEBIRGER WHOLESALE 3 DKK MILLION EBIT 351 DKK MILLION REVENUE G Re o e or 11 Nor re on 64
O er r n 6 T er o S e en 37 O er r n 15 T er o S e en 35 0.9% MARGIN EBIT (0.4)% LOCAL CURRENCY INGROWTH Re o Europe 25
RETAIL
3
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW MANAGEMENT’S LETTER
Earnings development for the Group lection development process, the effect of the new management The Group’s performance for the financial year 2016/17 was team and the more stringent commercial principles should not be affected by a number of extraordinary factors relating to the expected to materialize until the financial year 2018/19. Revenue structural changes implemented during H2 2016/17 which in Tiger of Sweden for the financial year 2016/17 increased by resulted in significant non-recurring costs. The financial results 0.6% measured in local currency whereas earnings were affected for the Group’s three Premium brands for the financial year by write-downs of inventory and distribution as well as higher 2016/17 were marked by a number of factors identified in con- costs. The EBIT margin amounted to 7.0% compared to 11.1% in nection with the change of the Group’s management structure, 2015/16. in particular in respect of purchase of goods and in-season selling, which needs to be addressed. This has especially been By Malene Birger has implemented a more commercial approach the case in Tiger of Sweden which has also showed a need for a to its business in several areas. The production development strengthened and renewed approach in other arear of the busi- process, collection structure and pricing structure model have ness. We are working on solving these issues with all due care, been improved whereas the wholesale distribution has been but we acknowledge that it will take some time to rectify former strengthened focusing on large key accounts. However, revenue practices and business principles. was reduced by 0.4% measured in local currency, and earnings were significantly impacted by distribution write-downs as well as All three business units have worked on strengthening the busi- non-recurring costs. The EBIT margin amounted to 0.9% compa- ness model, reinforcing the brand and improving the prerequi- red to 7.3% in 2015/16. sites for succeeding with the individual strategies – a process which will continue for the coming financial year. All three In connection with the structural changes of the Group’s central Premium brands hold considerable potentials for international functions, all three Premium brands have been working on expansion, however, the readiness of each of the three brands is improving the operational execution of being a Premium brand. at different stages. Consequently, this has led to a strengthened business model and principles, in particular in respect of purchase of goods, Peak Performance has come far with the revitalization of the inventories and discounted sales. Across all three brands, brand – both in terms of product and distribution – and has challenges have been identified within these areas, and as a experienced a more positive development trend during the consequence hereof, a number of commercial principles have financial year 2016/17. For the financial year under review, Peak become more stringent. This has led to a reduced amount of Performance realized a revenue growth rate of 11.6% measured discounted sales and an increased level of inventory write- in local currency driven by wholesale, new store openings as well downs – especially in Tiger of Sweden – as well as distribution as continued strong e-commerce growth. Earnings also incre- write-downs. In total, these changes had a significantly negative ased, and Peak Performance realized an EBIT margin of 9.8% impact on the realized consolidated profit for 2016/17. which is at the same level as 2015/16. Consolidated revenue for the financial year 2016/17 amounted Following a number of years with pronounced growth rates in Tiger to DKK 2,749 million corresponding to a growth rate of 4.3% of Sweden, the brand reported stagnant growth for the financial measured in local currency compared to last financial year. year 2016/17. We have therefore changed and reinforced the Consolidated operating profit amounted to DKK 125 million brand’s management team through the recruitment of a number corresponding to an EBIT margin of 4.5%. Both results are in line of strong profiles – most recently, a new brand CEO who will take with the most recently announced outlook for 2016/17, however, up his new position on 1 September 2017. Furthermore, Tiger of it is lower than expected at the beginning of the financial year Sweden has been subject to a thorough review in connection with 2016/17. The lower than expected revenue growth is particularly the structural changes of the Group. Consequently, the commer- attributable to the development in physical stores as well as in-sea- cial principles, in particular purchase of goods and sales, have son selling to wholesale customers, partly as a consequence of the become more stringent. This has led to a negative impact on the decision to reduce the amount of discounted sales. The reduced brand’s financial performance for 2016/17 and will also affect the earnings may partly be ascribed the implemented structural chan- financial year 2017/18. Considering the long lead time of the col- ges of the Group’s central functions attributable to non-recurring
4 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S the direction right andataspeed withwhichwe are satisfied. and inthe way ofthe value chain.We we thinkinallparts move in irrespective ofchannel. Thismakes demands on our competences Consequently, the consumer expects the same brandexperience – is on the consumer. The consumer sees abrand–not achannel. was on the actual sale –the transaction –whereas today the focus towards afull integration between allchannels. Previously, the focus we continuously develop our competences andincreasingly move Both order-in-store andthe loyalty programmes are examples of how the average customer. non-identified customers inaverage spend20%moreperorder compared to customers, inaddition, salesdataalsoindicates thatreturning ning customers arenot onlylessexpensive to attract thannew tive andcontents offers personalized online.Loyal and retur advantages andinthelong-term perspec themcertain offering of identifyingandretaining returning customers andinreturn all brandshave implemented aloyalty programme for thepurpose physical stores andminimizestheriskoflostsales.Furthermore, improved possibilitiesofmeeting theconsumerdemandsin an order-in-store functionalityduring2016/17, whichfacilitates and e-commerce. Asanexample, we have, i.e.,implemented as improving theintegration between thephysical channels continuously working onexpanding thefunctionalitiesaswell Premium brandswhichistechnically best-in-class,andwe are The Group operates ane-commerce platform utilizedby allthree online mediaduringthebuyingprocess. consumer isincreasinglypurchasing onlineorisinfluencedby the city, butalsoto alargeextent becausewe know that themodern this development, not onlydueto thegrowth andearningscapa most profitable distributionchannel.We pleasedto arevery see all threePremiumbrandsandiscloseto becomingtheGroup’s number ofyears hasdemonstrated two-digit growth rates across from salesinourown e-commerce channelwhichthrough a number ofstores by twelve. Furthermore, growth alsoderived in Peak Performance andTigerofSweden –increasingthetotal venue growth. Growth was realizedthrough new stores –primarily contributor to6.4%, thusconstitutingtheprimary theGroup’s re Revenue increasedintheGroup’s own distributionchannelsby Revenue growth driven by own channels downs were higher compared to year. lastfinancial and to restructure thedistribution. Inparticular, the inventory write- Group Premium brandsto reduce the amount ofdiscounted sales the initiatives carried out inthe costs of DKK33million andpartly - - - - this potential infull. structure aswell asGroup structure,itisourambitionto realize the potential remainsthesame.Withachangedmanagement flected inouroutlookfor year the financial 2017/18 –however, of eachthethreebrandsisatdifferent stages–whichisre pansion, increaserevenue andimprove earnings.Thereadiness remain unchanged.They mustgrow through international ex- Consequently, thestrategies ofthethreePremiumbrands business. Premium brandsinorder to grow anddevelop theirrespective changes –to create themostoptimumterms for ourGroup at competitive prices.Thisreflectsthepurpose ofthestructural due to thefact thatthesefunctionsdeliver highquality services ber ofinfrastructurefunctionswillremaincentrallyorganized ment inoperationsatcorporate level hasbeenreduced,anum value Even creationofthebrandportfolio. thoughtheinvolve orientedfinancially holdingcompany focusing onmaximizingthe In thefuture,ICGroup A/Swillto alargerextent operate asa still characterized by themulti-brandstrategy years pursued ago. structure oftheGroupunderlying legalandfinancial whichis minimized. Following this,we arenow working onchangingthe and theoperationalinvolvement atcorporate level hasbeen functional areashave beentransferred to thethreePremium As aconsequence ofthestructuralchanges,several central withthemanagementofrespectiveperformance brands. oftheresponsibilitydevelopmenta largerpart andfinancial exploit thepotentials ofthethreePremiumbrandsby placing The purpose ofthesestructuralchangeshasbeento better nagement structurewas determined inMay 2017. the centralfunctionswas implemented whereasthenew ma- central functions.Inthefollowing months,therestructuringof management structureaswell asanew structureoftheGroup’s of Directors resolved 2017 inFebruary to implement anew In accordance withtheGroup’s strategy, portfolio theBoard ofcentral functions restructuring New and managementstructure shareholders. yearin respectofthefinancial 2016/17 to bedistributed to of DKK85millionor92%theconsolidated profit tax after of DKK5.00pereligiblesharecorresponding to atotal dividend Meeting 2017 dividend aresolutionrecommending anordinary The Board ofDirectors willpropose attheAnnual General Dividend for thefinancialyear 2016/17
- - - 5
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW OUTLOOK
Realization of expectations for 2016/17 Outlook for 2017/18 Consolidated revenue for the financial year 2016/17 amounted The outlook for the financial year 2017/18 is marked by a number to DKK 2,749 million corresponding to a growth rate of 4.3% of factors which were identified in connection with the changes to measured in local currency. The most recently announced out- the Group’s management structure during H2 2016/17 relating in look indicated a growth rate of 3-4% measured in local currency. particular to in-season selling, as well as the underlying principles and practices in respect of the purchase of goods forming the Operating profit (EBIT) for the financial year 2016/17 amounted basis for in-season selling. to DKK 125 million corresponding to an EBIT margin of 4.5%. The most recently announced outlook stated an EBIT margin of The business principles in respect of purchase of goods and sales 4-5%. for all three Premium brands have become more stringent which will lead to a negative impact on the development of both revenue When adjusting for non-recurring costs of DKK 33 million and earnings in a continued challenging retail environment. (expected DKK 30 million) attributable to the implementation of the new structure of IC Group’s central functions, the Group In Tiger of Sweden revenue is furthermore expected to decline realized an EBIT margin of 5.7%. The most recently announced as a consequence of lack of focus on innovation and product outlook stated an EBIT margin of 5-6%. renewal over an extended period while the gross margin will be affected negatively due to a more competitive price struc- Investments for the financial year 2016/17 amounted to DKK 89 ture. These factors combined with costs in respect of the new million corresponding to 3% of revenue which is in line with the management team as well as increased marketing will have a most recently announced outlook. significant negative impact on earnings.
A moderate revenue and earnings growth is expected in Peak Performance while we expect a moderate revenue decline but significant earnings improvement in By Malene Birger.
For the Group as a whole, we expect to realize a minor revenue reduction compared to the financial year 2016/17 and an EBIT margin of approx. 5%.
Investments for the financial year 2017/18 are expected to be in the region of 3-4% of annual revenue.
OUTLOOK
Original Most recent outlook outlook Realized Outlook DKK million 2016/17 2016/17 2016/17 2017/18 Revenue growth measured in local currency at least 6% 3-4% 4.3% minor revenue decline Revenue growth in reporting currency (%) at least 5% 2-3% 3.2% n.a. EBIT margin approx. 9% 4-5% 4.5% approx. 5% Adjusted EBIT margin* n.a. 5-6% 5.7% n.a. Investments (% of revenue) 3-5% 3-5% 3.2% 3-4%
* Adjusted for non-recurring costs of DKK 33 million in relation to the implementation of the new structure in IC Group’s central functions.
6 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY for ourGroup Premiumbrandsto exploit theirpotentials ofcontinued growth andinternational expansion. within thefashion industry. Bymeansofoursimple Group structure,we create themostoptimumframework IC Group’s missionisto create shareholdervalue through long-term andactive ownership ofPremium brands ons ofeachPremiumbrand. theoperati andprice-competitive supporting services efficient TheoverallServices. target ofthesefunctionsisto deliver cost- ture functionscountSourcing, Logistics,ITandFinancialShared which aresharedby allGroup Premiumbrands.These infrastruc Furthermore, theGroup structurecomprises centralfunctions responsible oftheirrespective earningsdevelopment. strategicbusiness unitswithclearlydefined plans,andthey are All oftheGroup Premiumbrandsareoperated asindependent Group structure solid revenue growth andhighearnings. operating anddeveloping brands.Historically, we have generated competences withinthissegmentinwhichwe have succeededin target oftheGroup Premiumbrands.AsaGroup, we holdstrong high degreeofinternationalization whichalsoforms thestrategic solid earnings.Furthermore, thissegmentischaracterized by a has historically beencharacterized by strong growth rates and the Premiumsegment.We focus onthismarket segment asit IC Group creates value through active ownership ofbrandsin strategy Premium-focused portfolio MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S STRUCTURE GROUP STRATEGY AND PERFORMANCE PEAK OF SWEDEN TIGER
IC GROUP - - considered asinvestments. above-mentioned infrastructurefunctionsandboth brandsare within thePremiumsegment.Noneoftwo brandsutilizethe is aFast Fashion Remix brandwhereasDesigners operates owned) Remix andDesigners (equity shareof51%). SaintTropez In addition,theGroup owns thetwo brands;SaintTropez (wholly internationalhold significant growth potentials. their Nordic coremarkets considered to andare,furthermore, three brandsalsohave ahighdegreeofbrandawareness in Group generated solidrevenue growth andgoodearnings.The All threePremiumbrandshave ofIC sincethey becameapart creative designerbehindthebrandname. IC Companys) founded ByMaleneBirgerincooperationwiththe acquired in2003,andduringthatsameyear, ICGroup (former was formed through amergerin2001. TigerofSweden was oftheGroupPeak sincetheGroup Performance hasbeenapart which form thestrategic strategy. coreoftheportfolio Peak Performance, TigerofSweden andByMaleneBirger The Group’s comprises portfolio thethreePremiumbrands; Portfolio MALENE BIRGER BY
OTHER BRANDS
7
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW Strategic focus areas but also very much about the correct amount of purchase of The three Premium brands operate within different areas of the goods, stocking, optimization of product flow through collection Premium segment and have each their brand-specific strategy structure and product depth as well as use of outlet capacity. plans. However, especially three strategic focus areas are identi- Consequently, all three Premium brands work on a number of cal for all three brands. initiatives with one common purpose which is higher full-price selling. Internationalization forms a common corner stone of the growth plans. All three brands hold strong market positions in the Nordic Long-term ambitions for growth and earnings region with a solid revenue and earnings base. The Nordic region The ambition of the Group Premium brands is to continue remains a focus area, and both revenue and earnings should be generating revenue growth, and thereby also for the Group as a increased to the extent possible. However, to continue growth, whole. Concurrently with the expected higher revenue, it is also the international potential of all three brands must be exploited our ambition to improve the EBIT margin. by means of international expansion. To begin with, this should primarily be achieved in focus markets in Europe and in the long- Investments term perspective outside of Europe. The specific focus markets Investments will primarily be carried out for the purpose of vary from brand to brand which is mainly due to the different realizing the growth strategies of each of the three Premium brand characteristics, and thereby the differences of where the brands, especially including expansion and strengthening of largest growth potentials lie. The specific focus markets of each own distribution channels (physical stores and e-commerce). brand are described in the following sections of each Premium Investments in the Group’s infrastructure functions may also be brand, c.f. pages 10-21. necessary in order to retain the optimum support of the three Premium brands. Enhanced distribution control is also a focus area which all three brands share. This area is crucial in order to retain and The Group’s future investment level will depend on the speed strengthen the brand positions and to protect the brand value. of which the strategic plans of each brand are executed. The The distribution channels – own controlled channels as well as investment level may thus vary year on year. wholesale channels – are the place where the consumer meets the brand and experiences the products. A strengthened coopera- Generally, we expect the Group’s investments to attain a level tion with key wholesale customers is vital, but, particularly, own of approx. 3-5% of the annual revenue. For the financial year stores and the e-commerce platform play decisive elements when 2016/17, investments accounted for 3% of the annual revenue. it comes to delivering the best possible consumer experience. All three brands will gradually increase the share of own controlled Working capital distribution and will at the same time work on improved coordina- The Group’s working capital is expected to constitute approx. tion of the brand experience across all distribution and commu- 10-12% of the annual revenue. At 30 June 2017, the working nication channels in order for the consumer to always have a capital constituted 12% of the annual revenue which is elaborated consistent brand experience, irrespective of channel. further in the section Consolidated Financial Review on page 25. However, the expected revenue growth will naturally lead to Full-price selling plays an essential role in respect of maintaining working capital investments, and therefore, during periods of the consumer’s brand perception and thereby the brand’s long- high growth, the working capital may exceed this level. Through term value, and at the same time it contributes to an improved efficiency improvements and strict control of the elements con- gross margin. Higher full-price selling is not only about reducing stituting the net working capital, we are working on continuously discounted sales to the consumers and the wholesale customers minimizing the tied-up working capital.
8 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S CAPITAL ALLOCATION PRIORITIES 2017, the net interest-bearing debt amounted to DKK17 million. fluctuations inthe working capitalduring the year. At 30June credit facilities then primarilybe will employed to fund seasonal bearing debt atzero for year the financial asawhole. The Group’s we have decided to specifically retain thelevel of net interest- To maintainthe highest possible degree of flexibility inthe future, on ICGroup’s equity ratio. standard isexpected reporting financial to have amaterial impact the statement position. Theimplementation offinancial of this requiring thatoperating leases are recognized andmeasured in standard witheffect asat1July 2019 reporting nal financial consolidated statements financial describing anew internatio statements.financial Inthiscontext, please see note 1.1 to the amounted to DKK368million,cf.note 5.6to the consolidated Atficant. year theend of the financial 2016/17, operating leases represent anelement ofoperational gearing whichisnot insigni- economic trends. Furthermore, the Group’s operatingleases since, among other things,we operate inamarket sensitive to The Group aimsto maintainalow level gearing of financial structure Capital Investments 2016/17 (DKKmillion) 1 • INVESTMENTS VALUE-ADDING • • existing assets Maintenance of Retail expansion E-commerce projects
89 Net interest-bearing debt • REDUCTION DEBT 2 targets exceeds thedefined In casethedebt
- 17 performance. policy thatthetotal distributionreflectstheGroup’s earnings When distributingdividendsto itistheGroup’s theshareholders, buy-backs. –eitherthroughthe shareholders dividenddistributionorshare adding investments, thiscashflow willthenbedistributed to To theextent thatthefreecashflows exceed theneedfor value- anddepictedclearly defined inthebelow table. The Group’s prioritiesfor employing itsfreecashflows are allocationanddividendpolicy Capital to 1.8 (1.1). should thisbe required. At 30June 2017, thiskey ratio amounted lated at30June, constitute alevel 3times higher thanEBITDA bearing debt, including the Group’s operating leases, may, calcu To degree of strategic flexibility, maintainacertain the net interest- Ordinary dividend Ordinary 3 • DIVIDEND ORDINARY after tax after consolidated profit At least30%ofthe
85
Extraordinary dividend Extraordinary 4 • • PAYMENT EXTRAORDINARY Share buy-back dividend Extraordinary
- 0 9
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW A stronger and more explicit brand DNA as well as a more simple collection structure are some of the achievements reached by Peak Performance in connection with the brand revitalization that it has been working on. The product collections appear to a far larger extent coordinated with a more coherent design expression which improves the possibility for cross selling. The markets in the Nordic region continue to be strategically important, and further growth may be generated through both the wholesale distribution and own channels. Markets in the Alps play a central role in respect of the brand’s ambitions of international expansion, and in these markets Peak Performance may develop further on its strong position as a well-known brand within functional and technical sportswear.
REVENUE GROWTH IN EBIT EBIT DKK MILLION LOCAL CURRENCY DKK MILLION MARGIN 1,035 11.6% 101 9.8% MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S PEAK PERFORMANCE –FINANCIALHIGHLIGHTSANDKEYRATIOS and Italy. andcomprise Germany,important Austria, Switzerland,France Outside theNordic region,themarkets intheAlpsregionare position withgoodgrowth inallofthesemarkets. opportunities account for the majority of revenue, and the brand holds a strong Norway Combined, they andFinlandarestrategically important. To Peak Performance, theNordic markets Sweden, Denmark, mance mixed withstyle”. Fashion recognizedby theconsumerby itsclearDNA;“Perfor dynamic andprogressive brand,andapioneerwithinSports unleash itslargepotential. Peak Performance mustbeavibrant, on therevitalization ofthebrandin2014/15, thetarget was to functionality andstyle,whenPeak Performance embarked The strengthofthebrandhasalways beenitscombinationof fashion wear. leading brandswhenitcomesto and technical, functionalsports dern. Sincethen,Peak Performance hasbeenamongtheworld’s functional skiwear whichatthesametimewas stylishandmo and was founded in1986 by passionate whocalledfor skiers andfashion wear.sports Thebrandhasitsorigininalpineskiing Peak Performance isScandinavia’s largestbrandoftechnical Peak Performance PERFORMANCE PEAK 1 2 0 R E IT 1 100 00 6 0 00 0 R 201 /1 201 /16 E IT 2016/17 0 6 12 1 G R N 66 - - this strengthenedcooperation. andshop-in-shops) mustbeincreasedthrough corners (soft strengthened, andthesharesizeofbrandedsalesareas the cooperationwithanumberofkey customers mustbefurther own channelsisexpected to increase. Inthewholesalechannel sequence oftheabove factors, therelative revenue sharefrom the stores –both inphysical stores aswell asonline.Asacon clear andunambiguousacross alldifferent product categories in ence mustbemoreexclusive, and thebrandexperience mustbe ons, own e-commerce aswell asoutlets, theconsumerexperi- the brand’sown channels,comprising physical stores, concessi the samebrandexperience inallmarkets andinallchannels.In essential role inorder to ensurethattheconsumeralways gets including ahighershareofbrandedsalesareas.Thisplays an mance –across allmarkets –isincreaseddistributioncontrol, A key focus areainrelationto thepositioningofPeak Perfor has alower perspective. priorityintheshort-term Performance hasaminorfoothold inCanadawhichstrategically OutsideEurope, Peak regions,citiesandskiresorts. important markets, whichmust beexpanded withfocus onstrategically Peak Performance hasgainedastrong foothold inthese R E 1
peakperformance.com W O ESA E Concessions 1 Retail stores Franchise stores Wholesale customers R 1,755 E T A 48 32 I -
- 11 -
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW On 24 November 2016, Peak Performance cel- ebrated its 30-year anniversary. This was marked by an exclusive anniversary collection which in every way illustrated how Peak Performance has always been a pioneer when it comes to techni- cal innovation, functionality and design. The collection consisted of twelve styles (six styles dedicated to men and six styles to women) which were all designed for an active urban life while at the same time still with optimal functionality required for physically demanding skiing – the perfect fusion. And a perfect example of the brand’s cutting-edge skills; “Performance mixed with style”.
Development in 2016/17 The new and more simple collection structure has provided the In respect of distribution, the restructuring implemented consumer with a more clear and coherent impression of Peak by Peak Performance in 2015/16 contributed to a stronger Performance and the five product collections offered by the wholesale customer base which constitutes a solid founda- brand; Ski, Golf, Active, Sportswear and Urban. The brand DNA tion for the desired direction of the brand. Peak Performance – “Performance mixed with style” – is clearly visible across all will continue developing its wholesale distribution through collections, and the design expression is more consistent than a strengthened cooperation with key customers for the pur- previously. Besides the more explicit design expression, this also pose of a wider and better brand positioning on the square contributes to an improved possibility of cross selling across metres available. product collections which sales data from both the wholesale distribution and own sales channels reaffirms. The brand has also worked on adding more fashion-focused wholesale customers to its wholesale distribution which During the financial year under review, Peak Performance has may support the desired direction for particularly the Urban worked on the so-called Top Commercial Winners which are collection. This has primarily been a focus area in the Nordic products meeting the below three criteria; region during the financial year 2016/17, however, in the future the brand will gradually place more focus on nur- • they must be commercially strong and consequently turing the same development in the Alps region which at have the right price points and high gross margins; present has a strong focus on the Ski and Active collections. • they must support the desired brand positioning; and finally, Peak Performance has always been a strong player in the • they must be relevant and attractive for the consumer. outerwear category, and the customers in the Alps region are highly aware of the brand’s quality standards. Therefore, the By selecting a number of products meeting these criteria, the pur- Urban Outerwear category is essential to Peak Performance pose is to boost growth and improve earnings while at the same in order to engage in a more fashion-focused wholesale time strengthen the brand positioning towards the consumers. distribution in the Alps region.
12 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S PEAK PERFORMANCE –EARNINGSOVERVIEW control the distribution of surplus products inthe Alpsregion. respectively, meaningthatthebrandhasimproved itscapacityto two new outlets were opened inSouthern Germany andAustria, in key Furthermore, Oslo, Helsinki locationsin and Stuttgart. the number of retail stores by sixof whichthree stores are located yearDuring the financial 2016/17, Peak Performance expanded brand value inthelong-term perspective. ced –not onlyto improve to protect earnings,butinparticular the bution ofsurplus goods.Overall, discounted salesmustberedu levels have beentoo highwhichposesariskinrelationto distri purchase ofgoodsanddiscounted sales.Ingeneral,theinventory brands, worked onstrengtheningtheprinciplesinrespectof Finally, Peak Performance has,similarto theGroup’s other brands whichemploy the same operational e-commerce platform. initiatives have been implemented inthe two other Group Premium the interaction between physical retail andonline. Bythe way, both – ship-from-store andorder-in-store enhance –whichspecifically nancial year 2016/17, especially two initiatives were implemented order when aconsumer visitsastore- or shops online. During thefi brand experience, andnot least increased the probability of an contributed to improving thisinteraction andproviding acoherent used by the consumer. Several initiatives andmeasures have the modern consumer inthe communication andsales channels a key focus area inorder to ensure thatPeak Performance reaches interaction referred ismost often to asomni-channel, and itplays nel, andnot least the interaction between these two channels. This experience inthe physical stores andinitsown e-commerce chan- its own channels worked onanimproved andmore “Premium” yearDuring the financial under review, Peak Performance hasin EBIT margin(%) andimpairment losses Depreciation, amortization EBITDA margin(%) Operating profit (EBITDA) before depreciationand amortization Revenue growth inlocalcurrency (%) DKK million Operating profit(EBIT) Revenue Retail, e-commerce andoutlets Wholesale andfranchise - - financial year.financial margin of9.8%(10.0%) andwas thusatthesamelevel aslast pared to DKK94 millionfor 2015/16 correspondingto anEBIT The operatingprofit (EBIT)amounted to DKK101 millioncom- a higherlevel ofe-commerce activity. ratio was improved inspite ofincreasedcostsfor new stores and discounts aswell asinventory write-downs. However, thecost lower compared to year lastfinancial asaconsequence ofhigher Despite highermarginsonsoldproducts, thegross marginwas was primarilyrealizedinCanada andJapan. and Switzerlandwhereasrevenue growth from outsideofEurope venue growth from Rest ofEurope primarilyderived from Austria revenue growth rate amounted to 15.2% intheNordic region.Re Nordic markets; Sweden, Denmark, Norway andFinland.The Revenue increasedinallmarkets, inthefour butparticularly commerce growth. same-store revenue increasedby 9.0%driven by thehighe- openings butalsothecontinuedhighe-commerce growth. The retail channelamounted to 15.1% andwas driven by new store thelast-mentionedchannel.Growthnels, particularly inthe yearfinancial driven by both thewholesaleandretail chan of 10.6% (11.6% measuredinlocalcurrency)compared to last (DKK 936million)for 2016/17 correspondingto agrowth rate Peak Performance realizedarevenue ofDKK1,035 million Performance for theyear
2016/17 1,035 11.6 11.5 388 (18) 101 119 647 9.8 2015/16 11.9 10.0 936 599 111 337 (17) 94 Change, % - 10.6 15.1 5.9 8.0 7.4 7.2 13 -
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW
Tiger of Sweden realized a lower revenue for 2016/17 compared to last financial year primarily driven by significantly reduced in-season selling – including discounted sales. The brand has reinforced its management team through new recruitments – including a new brand CEO – which has injected competences and experience from well-known international companies. The store portfolio has been expanded, and the num- ber of stores in the focus market Germany has been increased by two. Finally, Tiger of Sweden has terminated its agency agreement covering England as well as the combined agency agreement for Germany, Austria and Switzer- land; consequently, the brand now operates its own sales set-up in these markets.
REVENUE GROWTH IN EBIT EBIT DKK MILLION LOCAL CURRENCY DKK MILLION MARGIN 963 0.6% 67 7.0% the primary focus isonParisthe primary andanumberoflargecities.On all the Englishmarket, themainfocus isonLondon,andinFrance, crucial elementsofthebrand’sinternationalization strategy. On markets focus continueto beimportant markets andconstitute targets for theexpansion inEnglandandFrance. However, both ring anumberofyears, TigerofSweden hasnot yet reachedits expansion inGermany hasbeenhighlysuccessfulandstabledu revenue, butalsoEnglandandFrance contributed. Whereasthe Germany whichaccountsfor approx. 15% ofthebrand’sannual growth hasbeenrealizedin European markets, inparticular During thepastfew years, anincreasingshareofthebrand’s to TigerofSweden.cally important consequently, themarkets intheNordic regionarestillstrategi- growth and ness withsolidearningsandfurther opportunities, of thebrand’srevenue andform astrong foundation ofthebusi and Finland.Combined,thesemarkets accountfor themajority driven by theNordic coremarkets; Sweden, Denmark, Norway and continuedrevenue growth whichto alargeextent hasbeen During thepastten years, TigerofSweden hasgenerated solid a distinctive design characterized by ”adifferent cut”. thereby offeringawide range of products which alldifferentiate by line. Tiger of Sweden is including ajeans collection and accessory is amodern brandoffering apparel to both men and women, forring skills,refined more than110 years. Today, Tiger of Sweden ndation inthe strong menswear confection traditionandsolid tailo Tiger of Sweden was founded in1903 inSweden and hasitsfou Tiger ofSweden MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S TIGER OFSWEDEN –FINANCIALHIGHLIGHTSANDKEY RATIOS SWEDEN OF TIGER 1 2 0 1 100 R E IT 00 6 0 00 0 R 201 /1 201 /16 E IT 2016/17 0 6 12 1 G R N 7 - - - - with aconsistent brandexperience across allsaleschannels. e-commerce channelinorder for theconsumerto bepresented an even better integration between physical stores andthe other Premiumbrands,TigerofSweden isworking oncreating revenue derivingfrom own e-commerce. Similarto theGroup’s including shop-in-shopsandphysical stores aswell ashigher place through increasingthenumberofbrandedsalesareas, the control ofthebrand’spositioninallmarkets whichmust take At thesametime,for to TigerofSweden increase itisimportant Germany. this combinationhasdemonstrated to successfulin bevery the brandcompared to establishedcompetitors. Up untilnow, flanked edgeto by theTigerJeansconcept whichaddsacertain tegy isbasedonTigerMenasthespearhead oftheexpansion Consequently, inthesemarkets thebrand’sgo-to-market stra markets outsidetheNordic butareof minorimportance region. accessories andshoesarewell-established intheNordic core The remainingconceptsTigerWomen, TigerJeansaswell as Tiger MenisthelargestandleadingconceptinofSweden. consumers. increased growth andstrengthenedbrandawareness withthe physical stores play anincreasinglylargerrole inrespectof channel, however, thebrand’sown e-commerce channeland foreign focus markets, growth plansaredriven by thewholesale R E 1
tigerofsweden.com W O ESA E Concessions 19 Retail stores Franchise stores Wholesale customers R E 951 T A 22 I 9 - 15
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW Development in 2016/17 During the financial year 2016/17, Tiger of Sweden has reinfor- ced its management team through new recruitments which has injected competences and experience from established and well- known international brands such as Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren and Burberry. During the autumn 2016, the brand’s new Chief Commercial Officer commenced work and is, in this newly created role, responsible for all sales channels as well as the strategic development of these channels. In May 2017, the brand an- nounced the appointments of a new Head of Creative and Design and a new Product Management Director. The Head of Creative and Design has the overall responsibility of the brand’s positio- ning and the creative design expression of the products whereas the Product Management Director has a more commercial role in respect of product development, thus being responsible for ensuring a commercial and competitive collection structure with the right price points in the different product categories.
Finally, in June 2017, it was announced that Hans-Christian Meyer has been appointed as CEO of Tiger of Sweden. With his vast ex- perience from other fashion brands – in particular Ralph Lauren – Hans-Christian Meyer will become a strong character heading Tiger of Sweden in a more international direction in the years to come.
Furthermore, Tiger of Sweden has worked on enhancing the brand definition, its characteristics and competitive strengths during the financial year 2016/17. Tiger of Sweden has embarked on an international expansion where it is not possible to benefit as much from a high brand awareness with the consumer as in the Nordic region, and where the competitor field is different. Therefore, it is crucial to be fully aware of the characteristics of the core consumer of the brand as a whole and of each product concept. These analyses have been carried out, and the targets and sub-targets concluded from these analyses have been clearly defined. To the new management team, these analyses will serve as a solid foundation of the international direction towards which the brands is headed in the future.
During 2016, Tiger of Sweden launched In respect of distribution, the brand has strengthened the com- a new shirt programme which in a vast mercial principles and business model. The procedure for dis- number of parametres is an upgrade counted sales has been subject to more strict measures – both in compared to the brand’s previous shirt own channels but in particular in the wholesale distribution where selection. With more than 110 years in-season selling accounts for a substantial part of revenue. In of experience, Tiger of Sweden has this connection, the principles for purchase of goods have become designed a Premium shirt, perfectly more stringent in order to reduce the risk of too large inventory le- complementary to a suit from which vels leading to higher discounts and write-downs. The commercial the brand has its legacy, but still suitable principles have also led to a certain degree of wholesale distribu- for more informal occasions. A shirt tion clean-up which has had a negative impact on the realized re- with the right combination of the finest venue for the financial year under review. This clean-up has been yarns and style details, fit and silhouette implemented to ensure that Tiger of Sweden has the right size of which is in line with the brand’s unique the wholesale customer base to support its brand positioning and signature “a different cut”. contribute to continued growth and earnings in existing as well as
16 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S * Revenue from Vingåker Factory Outlet AB amounted to DKK 154 million for the financial year 2016/17 (DKK 154 million). TIGER OFSWEDEN –EARNINGSOVERVIEW discounted salesasmentionedearlier. Furthermore, therevenue driven by thetargetselling, partly ofreducingtheamount This revenue reductionisprimarilyattributableto lower in-season of thepreviously mentionedpositive effect ofDKK18 million. Revenue from thewholesalechanneldeclinedby 5.4%inspite 1.3% measuredinlocalcurrency. 2016/17. having After adjustingfor this,revenue declined by deliveries whichhadapositive impact ofDKK18 milliononQ1 in localcurrency. Revenue was affected positively in by ashift lower compared to year, lastfinancial but0.6%highermeasured revenue ofDKK963million(DKK972 million)whichis0.9% yearDuring thefinancial 2016/17, TigerofSweden realizeda Performance for theyear small outlet store intheNordic region. Western Germany. Thebrandclosedtwo retail stores andone Netherlands withalocationwhichalsoto alargeextent covers stores. Inadditionto this,oneoutlet store was openedin the two franchisestores located inSweden were converted into own new stores inGermany, and oneinBerlinandStuttgart, yearDuring thefinancial 2016/17, TigerofSweden openedtwo of these markets willtake place through own sales set-up. and Switzerland inDecember 2016. Inthe future, the development as well asthe combined agency agreement for Germany, Austria Tiger of Sweden terminated itsagency agreement covering England To strengthen the control and reinforce operations initsmarkets, tes substantial revenue andearnings. separately asamulti-brandoutlet. Vingåker Factory Outlet genera- Today, of Tiger ofSweden, but itisoperated the business isapart the future strategy of Vingåker Factory Outlet being considered. new markets. The distribution restructuring hasalso resulted in
Operating profit(EBIT) andimpairment losses Depreciation, amortization EBITDA margin(%) Operating profit (EBITDA) before depreciationand amortization Revenue growth inlocalcurrency (%) DKK million EBIT margin(%) Revenue Wholesale andfranchise Retail, e-commerce andoutlets *
108 million)correspondingto anEBITmarginof7.0% (11.1%). The operatingprofit (EBIT)amounted to DKK67million(DKK during H22016/17. tion withestablishingown salesset-up inEnglandandGermany in France aswell costsinconnec asstore openingsandstart-up to, amongothers, write-downs in respectofdistributionchanges cing discounted salesduringH22016/17. Costsincreaseddue of whichthemajorityisdirectlyrelated to thedecisionofredu which were approx. DKK20millionhighercompared to 2015/16 year.financial Thisismainlyattributableto inventory write-downs Tiger ofSweden realizedalower gross margincompared to last In spite oftheunderlyingmarginimprovement onsoldproducts, inSouthAfrica. franchise partner consequence oftheclean-uporder booksofthebrand’s level. Revenue from outsideofEurope suffered areductionas yearfinancial whereasrevenue from France was atthesame Germany. Revenue from Englandwas lower compared to last driven by ahighgrowth rate inthefocus (28%)reported market Revenue from Rest ofEurope increasedby 22.4%primarily of both SEKandNOKalsocontributed to therevenue reduction. tioned reducedin-seasonselling.However, lower exchange rates markets –which is primarilyattributableto thepreviously men Revenue from theNordic regiondeclinedby 4.6%–across all strong e-commerce growth. revenue (excluding outlets) increasedby 1.4% driven by the new stores aswell ashighe-commerce growth. Thesame-store Revenue from theretail channelincreasedby 6.6%driven by order to improve thedistributionofbrand. affected by aclean-upoftheorder books–especiallyinQ4 from degreenegatively thewholesalechannelwas to acertain
2016/17 963 385 (19) 578 8.9 0.6 7.0 67 86 2015/16 12.7 11.1 123 108 (15) 361 611 972
Change, % (38.0) (26.7) (30.1) (0.9) (5.4) 6.6 - - 17 -
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW By Malene Birger has in a number of areas strengthened the commercial approach to its business. New collection structure principles and a new pricing structure model are some of the implemented initiatives. The markets in the Nordic region continue to be important markets whereas London has top priority outside the Nordic region. The wholesale customer base has been consolidated, and more focus will be placed on large and strategically important customers in order to ensure the right “Premium” distribution in the future.
REVENUE GROWTH IN EBIT EBIT DKK MILLION LOCAL CURRENCY DKK MILLION MARGIN 351 (0.4)% 3 0.9% MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S BY MALENE BIRGER –FINANCIALHIGHLIGHTSANDKEYRATIOS growth –especiallySweden. further opportunities By MaleneBirger’srevenue in2016/17. Allthreemarkets hold and Norway. Combined,these markets accounted for of 64% it alreadyholdsstrong markets positionsinDenmark, Sweden The brandwillstillfocus ongrowth intheNordic regioninwhich to reinforce thebrand’smarket positioning. to meet consumerdemandstoned further alargerextent and categories, suchasfor example outerwear, mustbestrengthe tops. Products underthesecategories other aswell ascertain number ofproduct and categories –includingdresses,shirts By MaleneBirgerhasalways hadastrong market positionina fashion brandsintheNordic region. nal fashion scene.Today, thebrandisoneoflargestfemale continuous progress andachieved recognitionontheinternatio The brandwas founded in2003andsincethen,ithasenjoyed an international to appealoffering affordable women. luxury By MaleneBirgerisaDanishhigh-profile designbrandwith By MaleneBirger BIRGER BY MALENE 200 2 0 00 0 00 1 0 R E IT R 201 /1 201 /16 E IT 2016/17 0 6 12 1 G
R 11 N 6 -
- maintaining thepositive e-commerce development. is to improve ofexisting theperformance stores aswell as selected key accounts.Inthebrand’sown channelsthetarget distribution across allmarkets through atargeted focus on By MaleneBirgerisworking onstrengtheningthewholesale is theonlystrategic focus market outsideofEurope atpresent. lands arealsoconsideredafocus market inEurope whileJapan from stores. England,theNether stores Apart anddepartment base andensuringthatByMaleneBirgerispresented intheright and own e-commerce. The focus willbeondeveloping the customer London willstilltake placethrough both thewholesalechannel global focal pointinterms ofinternational fashion. Growth in one of the world’s largest markets withinfashion wear and isa cally London –rankingwiththe highest priority. London represents to continuetheinternational expansion- inEngland–morespecifi Besides thecontinuedgrowth intheNordic region,thetarget is R E 2
bymalenebirger.com W O ESA E Concessions 6 Retail stores Franchise stores Wholesale customers R E 796 T A
I 9 7
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GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW By Malene Birger has for a long time had a strong reputation of designing exquisite and elegant theatre coats. However, the outer- wear category holds an even larger poten- tial – especially if appealing to the modern woman-on-the-go to a far larger extent. Consequently, for its autumn collection 2017, By Malene Birger has designed a selection of jackets and coats which all have an adequate touch of functionality without compromising the exclusive and elegant look of the products. The bestselling style has been a stylish but functional down jacket which, in line with the defined target, has been a contributing factor to the outerwear category growing considerably and now accounts for a significantly larger part of the total order intake for the autumn collection 2017.
Development in 2016/17 In respect of production, By Malene Birger has furthermore im- During 2016/17, By Malene Birger has implemented a number plemented an improved pricing model which to a far larger extent of initiatives with the aim of contributing to strengthening the than previously combine the strategic price points in the market brand in more competitive international markets where its with the features and quality of the product. The purpose of brand awareness is lower compared to the Nordic region. both the collection structure and the pricing model is to achieve commercially stronger collections and an improved correlation A comprehensive brand and positioning analysis has been between the price and the value experienced by the consumer. carried out from which a large number of focus areas and operational KPIs have arisen. The highly in-depth analysis is In respect of distribution, By Malene Birger has primarily focused based on the definition of By Malene Birger’s core customer. on the Nordic region and London. In the last-mentioned location, The analysis and its outcome have served as a strong input the brand has worked on ensuring a continuously positive to the projects which have been initiated in order to implement development of the store located on Marylebone High Street as a more commercial agenda in the brand. well as the right wholesale distribution in the rest of London. In this respect, a certain degree of clean-up of the customer base During the financial year under review, By Malene Birger has has taken place. implemented new principles for the collection structure meaning that the brand’s collections consist of a number of core products In general, this clean-up has taken place throughout the brand’s which are commercially oriented as well as a smaller part of wholesale distribution, since By Malene Birger has worked on products where design and branding are the principal elements. ensuring the right “Premium” distribution on all markets during In this context, By Malene Birger has appointed a new Creative the financial year under review. In this context, the sales orga- Director with experience from a number of international fashion nization has focused on enhancing the strong relations with By brands, including most recently Mulberry. The new Creative Malene Birger’s largest and most important customers as well Director has the overall responsibility of design and product as generating growth for these customers. This has resulted in development and will thus play an essential role of fulfilling a consolidation of the brand’s total customer base in a man- the ambition of realizing international growth in the future. ner ensuring that large and strategically important customers
20 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • ICGROUP A/S BY MALENE BIRGER –EARNINGSOVERVIEW which was diluted by thedevelopment inthephysical stores. outlets) increasedby 0.6%driven by solide-commerce growth stores duringH12016/17. Thesame-store revenue (excluding channel was negatively impacted by thedevelopment inphysical rily attributableto thelower wholesalerevenue butalsotheretail 0.4% measuredinlocalcurrency).Thereducedrevenue isprima 357 million)correspondingto areductionof1.7% (reductionof By MaleneBirgerrealizedarevenue ofDKK351 million(DKK Performance for theyear growing Swedish andstrategically business segment. important purpose ofcontrolling the distribution of surplus products inthe review, ByMalene Birger opened anoutlet store inSweden for the store inParis year hasbeen closed. During the financial under inexistingperformance stores. Inthisconnection, the brand’s In the brand’sown channels, focus hasbeen on improving the across allmarkets. customers thebrand’slargestandmostimportant is to service International Key Account functionhasbeenestablished which now accountfor alargerrevenue share.To thisend,anew EBITDA margin(%) Operating profit (EBITDA) before depreciationand amortization Revenue growth inlocalcurrency (%) DKK million Depreciation, amortization andimpairment losses Depreciation, amortization Revenue EBIT margin(%) Operating profit(EBIT) Retail, e-commerce andoutlets Wholesale andfranchise
- million) correspondingto anEBITmarginof0.9%(7.3%). Operating profit (EBIT)amounted to DKK3million(DKK26 as well aswrite-downs inthedistributionFrance andEngland. positioning analysis,strengtheningofthemanagementteam which islargelyattributableto thecomprehensive brandand higherin2016/17significantly compared to year lastfinancial year primarilydueto higherdiscountsandreturns. Costswere the realizedgross marginwas lower compared to lastfinancial In spite oftheunderlyingmarginimprovement onsoldproducts, revenue declinedintotal by 13.0% all other markets revenue reported increases,andconsequently Outside ofEurope, revenue Japanreported reduction whereas year,financial however, withvariations from market to market. Revenue from Rest ofEurope was 4.4%lower compared to last revenue inDenmark was atthesamelevel year. aslastfinancial driven by apositive development inSweden andNorway whereas Revenue from theNordic regionincreasedby 2.3%primarily
2016/17 (0.4) (14) 110 351 241 4.8 0.9 17 3 2015/16 112 357 245 9.2 7.3 33 (7) 26
Change, % (100.0) (88.5) (48.5) (1.7) (1.6) (1.8)
21
GOVERNANCE PERFORMANCE STRATEGY OVERVIEW OTHER BRANDS
The Group portfolio of brands also includes the two brands Saint Tropez and Designers Remix of which Saint Tropez is wholly owned whereas Designers Remix is owned by a 51% equity share. None of the two brands utilize the Group’s central infrastructure functions.
Other brands Performance for the year Besides the three Premium brands, the Group portfolio of brands Revenue from Other brands increased by 0.5% compared to also includes the two brands Saint Tropez and Designers Remix the financial year 2015/16 (0.6% measured in local currency). which both operate exclusively within female fashion. Saint Tro- Growth was driven by Designers Remix which reported a revenue pez is a brand in the Fast Fashion segment whereas Designers increase whereas the revenue development in Saint Tropez was Remix is a Premium brand. unsatisfactory.
Saint Tropez is wholly owned by IC Group whereas the Group Growth was realized in the wholesale channel whereas the has an equity share of 51% in Designers Remix. The remaining development in the retail channel was negative in respect of both 49% equity share is held by Niels and Charlotte Eskildsen, CEO brands. E-commerce revenue increased by almost 10%, however, and Chief Designer of the brand, respectively. None of the two the nominal value of this channel only accounts for a small part brands utilize the Group’s central infrastructure functions, and of the total revenue of Other brands. in all material respects both brands operate independently. The two brands may be divested and are thus considered as Designers Remix reported revenue increases in all markets investments. whereas revenue from Saint Tropez particularly declined in the brand’s domestic market Denmark where most of its physical stores are located. The same-store revenue (excluding outlets) declined by 8.6% compared to 2015/16.
The operating profit (EBIT) amounted to DKK 10 million (DKK 20 million) corresponding to an EBIT margin of 2.5% (5.0%). The reduced margin was driven by Saint Tropez where an improved gross margin was not able to compensate the significantly worse cost ratio caused by the higher capacity costs. The development may be ascribed a combination of new stores, higher staff costs and increased depreciation, amortization and impairment losses.
OTHER BRANDS – EARNINGS OVERVIEW
DKK million 2016/17 2015/16 Change, % Revenue 400 398 0.5 Wholesale and franchise 224 213 5.2 Retail, e-commerce and outlets 176 185 (4.9) Revenue growth in local currency (%) 0.6 Operating profit before depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) 19 27 (29.6) EBITDA margin (%) 4.8 6.8 Depreciation, amortization and impairment losses (9) (7) (28.6) Operating profit (EBIT) 10 20 (50.0) EBIT margin (%) 2.5 5.0
22 IC GROUP A/S • ANNUAL REPORT 2016/17 • MANAGEMENT COMMENTARY
CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL REVIEW
Revenue improved by 4.3% to DKK 2,749 million measured in local currency (DKK 2,665 million). The gross margin was negatively impacted by higher inventory write-downs in Q4 2016/17 as well as higher discounts throughout the financial year under review. Costs increased particularly as a consequence of the implemented restructuring of the Group’s central functions, but also store openings as well as distribution adjustments in certain brands contributed to this cost development. The operating profit (EBIT) amounted to DKK 125 million (DKK 243 million) corresponding to an EBIT margin of 4.5% (9.1%). Profit for the year amounted to DKK 92 million (DKK 195 million).
Revenue declined by 1.5 percentage points to 55.3% (56.8%) in spite Consolidated revenue amounted to DKK 2,749 million of a significant improvement of the underlying margin on sold (DKK 2,665 million) corresponding to an increase of 3.2% products across all brands. Consequently, the development (4.3% measured in local currency). The increased revenue was of the gross margin is attributable to higher discounts and primarily driven by the retail channel where store openings, returns during the financial year under review as well as higher especially in Peak Performance, as well as high e-commerce inventory write-downs – particularly in Tiger of Sweden and growth contributed to the growth rate of 6.4% in this channel. Peak Performance during Q4 2016/17. In total, the Group opened 19 new stores and outlets whereas 7 were closed. The total same-store revenue increased by Capacity costs 1.7% driven by e-commerce growth. The moderate growth rate Capacity cost increased by DKK 124 million to DKK 1,394 reported in the wholesale channel was driven by higher pre- million for 2016/17, and the cost ratio increased by 3.0 order revenue, mainly in Peak Performance, whereas in-season percentage points to 50.7% (47.7%). Non-recurring costs selling was lower compared to last financial year. As described attributable to the structural changes of the Group’s central earlier, the lower in-season selling is primarily attributable to functions amounted to DKK 33 million. Furthermore, costs Tiger of Sweden where a part of the reduction is driven by the attributable to impairment of assets in the distribution, decision to reduce the amount of discounted sales. Revenue primarily in respect of By Malene Birger and Tiger of Sweden, from the wholesale channel increased by 1.3%. amounted to DKK 11 million. In addition to this, a large part of the cost development is attributable to new stores and hig- Gross margin her e-commerce activity while strengthening of management Consolidated gross profit of continuing operations amounted to teams in some of the Group Premium brands also contributed DKK 1,519 million (DKK 1,513 million). The gross margin to this development.
Revenue development (DKK million) Capacity cost development (DKK) million