Getaway Montréal Montréal the Bestchoices for Ashortstay

getaway montréal montréal The bestchoices for ashortstay

! 40 132 Symbols Used In This Guide Getting to Montréal 640 Trembles

Ulysses Label awarded to our favourite hotels and restaurants km) (280 Québec Pointe-aux-

ù 138 Rue Notre-Dame Rue

30 Trois-Rivières (140 km), (140 Trois-Rivières LANAUDIÈRE

Attraction Classification Boucherville

Québec (250 km) Îles de Rue Sherbrooke Rue

Boucherville Saint-Hyacinthe (65 km), Not to be missed Worth a visit Interesting Drummondville (105 km), ««« «« « 20 EST

MONTRÉAL- L.-H.-La Fontaine

Restaurant 40 Bridge-Tunnel Prairies 0 5 10km Anjou

Rivière-des- Classification km) (40 20 25

Prices in this guide are for a meal for Terrebonne 132 25 Longueuil

one person, excluding drinks, taxes MONTÉRÉGIE and tip. Henri-Bourassa Blvd.

Parc Maisonneuve

134 $ less than $15 Sherbrooke 112 Saint- Lambert Nord

$$ from $15 to $25 Jacques Cartier Montréal-

125 Blvd. Pie-IX Bridge $$$ from $26 to $50 Rue 138

Sherbrooke (155 km), 10 Île Jésus

Bridge Victoria

$$$$ more than $50 Ave. Papineau NewBoston, York, NY MA (595 (495 km), km), 15

Burlington, VT (155 km) 19 centre

440 Montréal See Champlain Bridge Mount Royal Park 10

335 Rue Sauvé Rue Outremont Île des 720 Sœurs

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars. Gouin Blvd. 40 River MONT- ROYAL MONTRÉAL LAVAL Verdun 15 WESTMOUNT 15 Map Symbols St. Lawrence HAMPSTEAD

Mont-Tremblant (125 km) 117

CÔTE- Blvd. de la Côte-Vertu la de Blvd. OUEST SAINT-LUC Saint- Laurent Boisbriand (35 km) MONTRÉAL-

Rivière des Prairies LaSalle

Ch. de la Côte-de-Liesse la de Ch. Bridge Lachine Mercier Sainte-Catherine 520 Montréal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport

148 Blvd. Gouin Sources

des DORVAL Blvd. DES- 40

Kahnawake

ORMEAUX DOLLARD- 30 Blvd. St.-Jean Blvd. 138 L’ÎLE-DORVAL

L’Île-

Bizard Blvd. St-Charles Blvd. CLAIRE POINTE- Sainte-Geneviève Lac Châteauguay KIRKLAND Saint-Louis 132 BEACONSFIELD Borough of Montréal Suburban Town BAIE-D’URFÉ Lac des MONTÉRÉGIE SENNEVILLE Saint- Deux Montagnes CLAIRE Laurent

POINTE-

Île

Toronto (540 km) (540 Toronto de-Valleyfield (55 km) (55 de-Valleyfield

DE-BELLEVUE

SAINTE-ANNE- Ottawa (200 km) Salaberry- Perrot 20 40 Symbols Used In This Guide

ù Ulysses Label awarded to our favourite hotels and restaurants

Attraction Classification ««« Not to be missed «« Worth a visit « Interesting

Accommodation Restaurant Classification Classification Prices indicated in this guide apply Prices in this guide are for a meal for to a standard room for two people in one person, excluding drinks, taxes peak season, excluding taxes. and tip. $ less than $60 $ less than $15 $$ from $60 to $100 $$ from $15 to $25 $$$ from $101 to $150 $$$ from $26 to $50 $$$$ from $151 to $225 $$$$ more than $50 $$$$$ more than $225

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

Map Symbols

Beach Lighthouse Point of interest Bus station Lookout Railroad Car ferry Market Regional Cemetery Metro station airport

Church Museum 88 Route Golf course National Sea, lake, river capital 88 Highway Tourist Park or nature information Hospital preserve Train station Hiking trail Parking Urban park International Passenger ferry airport Place International border

All symbols do not necessarily appear in this guide. Ave. du Mont-Royal Est Ave. du Mont-Royal Est 0 400 800m Mont-Royal N

MONTRÉAL Mile-Ex Market Rue Marie-Anne Est Cimetière Mount Royal Rue Boyer centre Cemetery Belvédère Rue Marie-Anne Est Notre-Dame- Camillien- Rue Berri des-Neiges Jean-Talon Parc Houde PLATEAU Baldwin

Not to be missed Parc Église Rue Saint-Denis MONT-ROYAL

Rue Garnier Rue Rue Brébeuf Rue Rue De La Roche La De Rue Rue Fabre Rue Rue De Lanaudière De Rue Rue Marquette Rue Rue Chambord Rue Ave. Christophe-Colomb Ave. Jeanne- Little Italy, Saint-Jean- Worth a visit Ch. Remembrance Mance Baptiste Ave. Bureau Papineau Ave. Outremont, Mile End, Outremont, Rue Rachel Est Interesting Voie Camillien-Houde Rue Rachel Est Rue Rachel Est

Ave. du Parc Ave. Rue D’Iberville Rue

Mount Royal Chapleau Rue

Cross St-Laurent Blvd. Ave. Laval Ave.

Saint Joseph's Drolet Rue

Rue Dorion Rue Rue Fullum Rue Oratory Beaver Ave. Duluth Est Cartier Rue

Lake Ave. Duluth Ouest Messier Rue

Ave. Coloniale Ave. Maison Bullion De Rue

Rue Parthenais Rue Olympic Stadium,

Smith Henri-Julien Ave. Parc Ave. des Érables des Ave. La Fontaine Bordeaux de Rue

Percival Saint-Dominique Rue MontréalMontréal Botanical Insectarium, Garden,

Hôtel-Dieu l'Hôtel-de-Ville de Ave.

Rue Rivard Montréal Biodôme, Molson de Montréal Mount Royal Park Rue Clark Rue Sherbrooke Est Stadium 335 Montréal Planetarium Chalet 138 Rue Saint-André Rue de Mentana

du Mont-Royal Saint-Hubert Rue The Boulevard Rue Roy

Belvédère Hôpital Rue Saint-Christophe Ave. du Parc-La Fontaine Parc-La du Ave.

Kondiaronk Royal Victoria Ave. des Pins Est De Châteaubriand Ave. Ave. des Pins Ouest Rue de Rouen Ave. Cedar Hôpital

Notre-Dame Frontenac Rue Rue Cherrier

C Papineau Ave. Rue Larivière Ave. Montrose h Lorimier De Ave. . d Ave. des Pins Ouest e Square Rue Prince-Arthur ITHQ

la Rue Prince-Arthur Saint-Louis Sherbrooke Rue Dorion Rue Cartier Rue Ch. Saint-Sulpice C Rutherford ôt Frontenac e-de Park MILTON- Écomusée Rue Ontario s-Ne

ig PARC du Fier Monde Rue Panet WESTMOUNT Saint-Urbain Rue

e Ave. Rue de la Visitation Rue Beaudry s Lorne DISTRICT Rue Sainte-Famille Ave. du Docteur-Penfield Rue Jeanne-Mance Ave. du Docteur- Penfield Parc

Ave. du Parc Ave. Rue Milton Rue Milton Fullum Rue Redpath Rue Ontario des Museum Rue Sherbrooke Est Vétérans

GOLDEN Rue De Champlain Rue Plessis

Queen- Rue Alexandre-De Sève Rue Saint-Denis Rue Rue Berri

Ave. Elm Ave. Rue La Fontaine Rue D’Iberville Rue

Elizabeth du Musée Ave. Rue Sherbrooke Ouest Collège SQUARE MILE Rue La Fontaine Gardens de Montréal McGill Parthenais Rue Rue Saint-André Rue Hutchison Montréal University Rue Durocher Rue Peel Rue Aylmer Rue Robin

Museum of Rue Sanguinet Rue University Rue

Rue McTavish Boulevard Saint-Laurent Boulevard Fine Arts Rue Sherbrooke Ouest Saint-Hubert Rue Rue Logan

Rue Clark Rue OntarioQUARTIER Rue Logan Ave. Clarke Ave.

Ave. Rue Sherbrooke Ouest

Rue Guy McCord Museum Ave. Papineau Ave.

Greene LATIN Poupart Rue

Ave. CENTRE-SUD

Rue Dufresne Rue Wood Blvd. De Maisonneuve OuestAtwater Place- Grande Ave. du Président-Kennedy Rue Beaudry Ave.Atwater Bibliothèque Rue De Montcalm des-Arts Blvd. De Maisonneuve Est Blvd. De Maisonneuve Est Peel McGill Papineau Westmount Place Blvd. De Maisonneuve Ouest Saint- Berri-UQAM Christ Church Rue De Bleury Place Square Alexis- Laurent Place Beaudry GAY VILLAGE Nihon Rue Metcalfe Cathedral Musée d’Art des Arts UQAM Rue Lambert-Closse Rue Chomedey Rue Mansfield Émilie- Rue Sainte-Catherine Est Guy- Cours Centre Contemporain Mont- Eaton QUARTIER DES SPECTACLES Gamelin Rue Wolfe Rue Sainte-Catherine Est Hochelaga- Concordia Rue Amherst Square Royal Rue Union de Montréal Rue Saint-Marc Blvd. Dorchester McGill College Ave. Maisonneuve Cabot Rue du Fort Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest UQAM Rue Saint-Thimotée Rue Tupper Rue Saint-Mathieu Square Église DOWNTOWN Complexe Lorimier De Ave.

UQAM Cartier Rue Phillips Saint-Pierre- Dorion Rue

Rue Stanley Desjardins

Rue Baile Sun Place Apôtre C Ville Marie Rue Beaudry Prison Rue Notre-Dame Est Square Life ô Église

Rue Drummond Blvd. René-Lévesque Est Au-Pied- t Ave. Greene Blvd. René-Lévesque Est Dorchester Building e du Gesù du-Courant Rue McKay Rue Bishop Rue Crescent

Ville-Marie Expressway d Centre Hospitalier Maison de

u Complexe St-Laurent Blvd. Blvd. René-Lévesque Ouest de l’Université Radio-Canada Cathédrale B Guy-Favreau

e de Montréal (CHUM) Rue Jeanne-Mance Rue Marie-Reine- a Rue Saint-Antoine Ouest St.George Place v CHINATOWN du du-Monde e Church r-Ha Ave. Viger Est Canada Gare Longueuil Lucien- Centre centrale Rue De La Gauchetière Ouest Square Viger Ville-Marie Expressway l (seasonal) Rue Saint-Antoine Ouest L’Allier Bonaventure l Georges- Bell Rue Berri Gare Blvd. Robert-Bourassa Place Jacques Cartier Bridge Rue Coursol Vanier Place 720 Molson Windsor Bonaventure QUARTIER Jean-Paul- Palais des Congrès Rue Saint-Jacques Riopelle Brewery Rue Saint-Antoine Ouest INTERNATIONAL de Montréal Place- Rue Saint-AntoineChamp- Est Parc DE MONTRÉAL de-Mars Rue Quesnel Campbell- Ville-Marie Expressway Montréal d’Armes Champ-de-Mars Lionel- Centre Square-Victoria–OACI World Trade OLD Hôtel de Ville Groulx Centre Sir George-Étienne-Cartier Rue Vinet Ave. Lionel-Groulx Rue Guy Square Place MONTRÉAL Rue Notre-Dame Est National Historic Site Rue Saint-Jacques 720 Victoria Rue Saint-Jacques d’Armes Rue Saint- Sulpice Édifice Place Chapelle Notre-Dame- Ave. Atwater Ernest- Jacques- Rue McGill de-Bon-Secours Parc WESTMOUNT Notre-Dame Cormier Cartier Vinet Rue Notre-Dame Ouest Basilica Marché Ave. Lionel-Groulx Bonsecours Saint-HenriRue Notre-Dame RueOuest Workman Rue de la Cathédrale Autoroute Bonaventure Rue Saint-Maurice Rue Richmond Rue de la Commune Bassin de l'HorlogeClock Rue Saint-Paul Ouest Rue Peel Bassin Tower Rue Notre-Dame Ouest Rue de la Montagne Centre d’Histoire Bonsecours Atwater de Montréal OLD PORT La Ronde Market Rue William Place D'Youville Clock Tower Quay LITTLE Pointe-à-Callière, Rue Shannon Jacques CITÉ Montréal Museum of Bassin Blvd. Georges-VanierBURGUNDY Rue William Archaeology and History King Jacques- Cartier

Rue des Seigneurs des Rue MULTIMÉDIA Edward Quay Rue Charlevoix GRIFFINTOWN Cartier Rue Prince McGill St. Lawrence River Rue Quay Rue Ottawa Rue Ann Île Sainte-Hélène Lachine Canal Rue Wellington Alexandra 10 Quay

Rue de la Commune Parc Jean-Drapeau Rue Wellington montréal

World’s second largest French‑speaking city, after Paris 2 (Island of Montréal) éal), Area: 482km 1.7 million (City of Montr Population: opolitan area) 3.8 million (metr Mount Royal (233m) Highest point: ne: UTC –5 Time zo Credits Translation from French – original title: Escale Translation for Previous Editions of Ulysses à Montréal Montréal: Cindy Garayt Research and Writing: Rodolphe Lasnes, Vincent Graphic Design: Pascal Biet Vichit-Vadakan Cover Design: Philippe Thomas Translation and Copy Editing: Matthew Layout: Isabelle Lalonde McLauchlin Photography, Cover Page: Les Boules Roses, Editor: Pierre Ledoux Aires Libres/SDC du Village, Landscape architecture Editing Assistants: Julie Brodeur, Pierre Daveluy, and urban design by Claude Cormier et Associés inc. Annie Gilbert © Photo : Alexandre Riendeau Research and Writing for Previous Editions of Ulysses Montréal: Julie Brodeur, Pascale Couture, Daniel Desjardins, Alain Legault, Benoît Legault, Élodie Luquet, Stéphane G. Marceau, Sybille Pluvinage, Benoit Prieur, François Rémillard, Marc Rigole, Yves Séguin

This work was produced under the direction of Claude Morneau. Acknowledgements We would like to thank Catherine Morellon of Tourisme Montréal and the City of Montréal for its help in creating this guide’s maps. Thank you also to Catherine Boily of the Société de Transport de Montréal (STM) for her collaboration. Ulysses Travel Guides acknowledges the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund (CBF) for this project. Ulysses Travel Guides would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing – Administered by SODEC.

Note to Readers The information contained in this guide was correct at press time. However, mistakes may slip by, omissions are always possible, establishments may close, etc. The authors and publisher hereby disclaim any liability for loss or damage resulting from omissions or errors.

Write to Us We value your comments, corrections and suggestions, as they allow us to keep each guide up to date. You can send your comments to us in writing at the following address; the best contributions will be rewarded with a free book from Ulysses Travel Guides (please indicate which title you would like to receive).

Ulysses Travel Guides 4176 St. Denis Street, Montréal, Québec, Canada H2W 2M5, www.ulyssesguides.com, [email protected] Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec and Library and Archives Canada cataloguing in publication Lasnes, Rodolphe, 1971- [Escale à Montréal. English] Getaway Montréal Translation of : Escale à Montréal. Includes index. ISBN 978-2-89464-502-4 1. Montréal (Québec) - Guidebooks. 2. Tourism - Québec (Province) - Montréal - Directories. I. Title. II. Title : Escale à Montréal. English. FC2947.18.L3713 2015 917.14’28045 C2014-942782-4 No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher. © April 2015, Ulysses Travel Guides All rights reserved Printed in Italy ISBN 978-2-89464-502-4 (Printed Version) ISBN 978-2-76582-380-3 (Digital PDF Version) ISBN 978-2-76582-384-1 (Digital ePub Version) table of contents

the best of montréal 7 exploring montréal 27

1 Old Montréal 28 9 Hochelaga- 2 Downtown 47 Maisonneuve 145 3 The Milton-Parc District 10 Around the and “The Main” 76 Lachine Canal 153 4 Quartier Latin 89 11 Little Italy 5 The Gay Village 100 and Mile-Ex 160 6 Plateau Mont-Royal 111 12 Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame 165 7 Mount Royal 124 8 Outremont and Mile End 132 practical montréal 173

Formalities 174 Getting around 181 Getting there 174 Useful information 185 Accommodations 176

Index 197 Photography credits 208 English-French glossary 203 oth Latin and Nordic, European and North American, cosmopolitan and metropolitan, Bthe largest French-speaking city in the world after Paris and bilingual hub, Montréal is without a doubt an exceptional city. Visitors to the city appre- ciate it for many different reasons; it succeeds in delighting American tourists with its European charm, while surprising overseas travellers with its freewheeling character. Even more than its rich architectural heritage, Montréal’s appeal lies in its unique, engaging atmosphere. And when the time comes to celebrate jazz, film, comedy, francophone singers or Saint‑Jean-Baptiste Day, hundreds of thousands of people flood into the streets, transforming major events into warm public gatherings.

Montréal is a big city that has managed to keep its human touch; get to know it, and you’ll discover that it is above all a city of small streets and unique neighbourhoods, each with its own church, businesses, restaurants, and bars—in short, its own personality, shaped over the years by people from all corners of the globe.

Elusive and mysterious, the Montréal mystique is nevertheless genuine, and has as strong a hold on those who live here as on visitors immersed in it for only a few days.

the best of montréal

ÂÂ 10 iconic images 8 ÂÂ If you have... a few hours 10 ÂÂ ... one day 10 ÂÂ ... a long weekend 11 ÂÂ 10 people, places and things that make Montréal 12 ÂÂ 15 important dates 16 ÂÂ 5 unique experiences 18 ÂÂ 5 thrills for sports fans 18 ÂÂ 10 cultural experiences 19 ÂÂ 10 iconic buildings 20 ÂÂ 10 sights for kids 21 ÂÂ 5 wonderful parks 22 ÂÂ 5 free things to do 22 ÂÂ 5 views of the city 23 ÂÂ 5 mainstays of local cuisine 24 ÂÂ 5 restaurant and bar patios 24 ÂÂ 5 creative dining experiences 25 ÂÂ 5 places to shop 25 ÂÂ 10 nightspots 26 8 Montréal

10 iconic images

3 Outdoor staircases (p. 15) The Best of Montréal

1 Jacques Cartier Bridge (p. 106)

4 Place Jacques-Cartier (p. 37)

2 Olympic Stadium (p. 148) 9

5 Palais des Congrès de Montréal (p. 62) The Best of Montréal

6 Place Ville 7 Notre-Dame 8 Mount Royal Cross Marie (p. 54) Basilica (p. 33) (p. 126)

9 Biosphere (p. 168) 10 Place des Festivals (p. 59) 10

The Best of Montréal If you have... a few hours ÂÂ A stroll through Old Montréal (p. 28) Travel back in time along narrow cobblestone streets.

ÂÂ A walk on Mount Royal (p. 124) Climb up to the Belvédère Kondiaronk and see the whole city at your feet.

ÂÂ A whirlwind tour of the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts (p. 50) Take in the museum’s prize collection of Québec and Canadian art. ...one day

The above, plus… ÂÂ A visit to Notre-Dame Basilica (p. 33) A masterpiece of Gothic Revival.

ÂÂ Exploring Pointe-à-Callière, the Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History (p. 35) Discover the city’s deep roots and long history. 11

ÂÂ Window-shopping on Rue Sainte-Catherine (p. 55, 73) The Best of Montréal Kilometres of small boutiques and huge department stores, and if the weather’s not cooperating, the famous Underground City. ...a long weekend

The above, plus… ÂÂ A bike ride along the Lachine Canal (p. 157) Relax, picnic, and watch the boats go past, along this green ribbon in the heart of the city.

ÂÂ Discovering the Plateau Mont-Royal (p. 111) Get to know the real Montréal, heart and soul.

ÂÂ Fine dining in one of the city’s famous restaurants: Au Pied de Cochon (p. 118) for gourmands, Toqué! (p. 71) for gourmets, or Le Club Chasse et Pêche (p. 43) if you’re both. 12

The Best of Montréal 10 people, places and things that make Montréal

1 Alleys Tucked away between its streets and avenues, Montréal’s alleys are like the city’s backstage. Children play entire Stanley Cup series of street hockey, stray cats rule all they survey, laundry flutters overhead in Italian style, and gardens, vines, and flowers flourish under the care of neighbourhood groups. These tiny, peaceable kingdoms show off the authentic face of the city.

2 Bagels and smoked meat Join the perpetual line-up in front of Schwartz’s or take late- night advantage of the 24/7/365 schedule of Mile End’s classic bagel bakeries, and you’ll understand how completely these traditional Jewish specialties have fused with Montréal’s identity. And not by accident: bagel connoisseurs rank the city’s typical thin, sweet, crisp bagels even above New York’s, while the sharp taste of Montréal smoked meat, less cloying than that made elsewhere, has made it a culinary icon.

3 Bixi With its 650km of bike paths and its ubiquitous Bixi bike share stands, Montréal is a cyclist’s paradise. Inaugurated in 2009, Bixi (short for BIcycle and taXI) allows users to borrow a bike 13 The Best of Montréal

for a quick trip at a reasonable price. A North American first, the concept has since spread to Toronto, Boston, New York, Chicago, Washington, and as far as Melbourne, Australia.

4 Festivals From the Festival international de jazz de Montréal (the world’s largest) to Montréal en lumière, the FrancoFolies, Just for Laughs and many others, the whole year is a whirl of festivals for every taste and interest. In summer, the aptly named Place des Festivals is the heart of the action.

5 Michel Tremblay Michel Tremblay’s Chroniques du Plateau-Mont-Royal series firmly established him as the pre-eminent chronicler of life in Montréal, and especially the Plateau. With their dialogue written in authentic joual, the city’s common spoken French, his novels and plays about the neighbourhood’s deep-rooted working-class families are intimate, colourful and full of life. 14

The Best of Montréal 10 people, places and things that make Montréal (cont’d)

6 Montréal Canadiens The National Hockey League’s legendary “Habs,” the Montréal Canadiens have won 24 Stanley Cups over the team’s hundred-year history. On game nights, the Bell Centre shakes with their fans’ deafening cheers, and so do sports bars and pubs throughout the city.

7 Mount Royal Named for King Francis I by Jacques Cartier, and just minutes from downtown, the Plateau, and Outremont, Mount Royal is the flourishing green heart of the city. Citizens flock to the mountain year-round for hiking, cross-country skiing, skating, and the Tam-Tams, or just to pass the time and enjoy the magnificent views of the city from its lookouts.

8 Music scene Montréal’s stages have hosted immortal names like Robert Charlebois, Leonard Cohen, Diane Dufresne, Jean-Pierre Ferland, Oscar Peterson, Jean Leloup, and many more. Today, it’s the likes of Arcade Fire, Pierre Lapointe, Malajube, Ariane Moffatt, Godspeed You! Black Emperor, Patrick Watson, and Grimes – world-renowned artists who regularly return to their hometown to play both huge festivals and small, intimate clubs. 15 The Best of Montréal

9 Outdoor staircases Montréal’s signature outdoor staircases owe their existence to the city’s equally characteristic winters: by putting the stairs outside, you save the expense of heating a stairwell. Snaking up gracefully to reach the upper storeys of the city’s typical “duplex” and “triplex” apartments, and often colourfully painted and hung with flowering vines, they’re one of the city’s most familiar and charming architectural symbols.

10 Underground city The 32-km warren of tunnels and underground galleries that spreads out under downtown Montréal is unique in the world. Linking metro stations, office towers, universities, malls, hotels, and more, it’s a boon in Montréal’s harsh winters. But it’s also a huge labyrinth dotted with works of art, a unique urban experience to discover. 16 The Best of Montréal 15 important dates

1 Fifth century: Nomadic Indigenous peoples settle in the St. Lawrence river valley and on the island known today as Montréal. 2 1535: On his second voyage to North America, Jacques Cartier sails up the river to the island of Montréal, where he visits an Iroquois village and climbs the mountain, naming it Mount Royal. 3 1642: A French colony, originally named Ville-Marie, is founded on the island, under the command of Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, and with the support of Jeanne Mance. 4 1701: The French and First Nations sign a treaty, ushering in a period of peace and fostering the development of a fur trade centered on Montréal. 5 1760: Like Québec City the previous year, Montréal falls into the hands of British troops. 6 1837: Riots break out in Montréal, with the Fils de la Liberté (Sons of Liberty), a movement comprised of young French Canadians, opposing the British loyalists of the Doric Club. 7 1849: A loyalist riot leads to a fire that destroys the Parliament Building; after just five years as capital of the Province of Canada, Montréal loses that title forever. Useful information 187 transaction), so it is best to avoid Plateau and Mile End, as well as the making several small withdrawals. city’s unique features (the underground city, Montréal in winter...). Guided tours Various companies organize tours Kaléidoscope of Montréal, offering visitors year-round; 6592 Avenue De Chateaubriand, interesting ways to explore the 514-990-1872, www.tourskaleidoscope.com city. Though there are numerous A variety of guided tours, such options, consider the walking, bus as themed tours based on archi- and boat tours offered by the fol- tecture, literature and gastrono- lowing companies. my, and visits exploring the city’s various neighbourhoods, its green Amphitour alleys and the underground city. $35, children $18; May to Oct; tours leaves from the corner of Rue de la Commune and Le Petit Navire Boulevard St-Laurent, 514-849-5181, mid-May to mid-Oct; Jacques Cartier Quay, www.montreal-amphibus-tour.com Old Port, 514-602-1000, www.lepetitnavire.ca Amphitour’s excursions take place Commented cruises on small elec- aboard an “amphibious” bus. The tric motorboats, touring the Old company offers guided tours of Old Port ($19; duration 45 min) and the Montréal and the Old Port on land Lachine Canal ($26; duration 2h). and water. Ça Roule Montréal Bateau-Mouche mid-May to mid-Oct; Jacques Cartier Quay, Guided bike tours (see p. 184). Old Port, 514-849-9952 or 800-361-9952, www.bateaumouche.ca My Bicyclette River cruises with tourist com- Guided bike tours (see p. 184). mentary offer an interesting pers- pective on Montréal. Various trips Health are available (starting at $24 for Vaccinations are not necessary for a 1h cruise), including some that people coming from Europe or the include lunch (starting at $50; United States. Visitors are strongly duration 1h) or dinner (starting at $96; duration 3h). advised, particularly for medium or long-term stays, to take out Fitz & Follwell health and accident insurance. 115 Avenue du Mont-Royal Ouest, There are different types, so it is 514-840-0739, www.fitzandfollwell.com best to shop around. Bring along

A handsome shop for urban cyclists all medication, especially prescrip- MontréalPractical which also offers foot and cycle tion medicine. Unless otherwise tours (bike rentals available) of stated, tap water is drinkable eve- various neighbourhoods such as the rywhere in Québec. 188 Practical Montréal Newspapers International newspapers can easi- ly be found in Montréal. The major Montréal newspapers are, in English, The Gazette (www.montrealgazette. com), and in French, Le Devoir (www.ledevoir.com), La Presse (www.lapresse.ca) and Le Journal de Montréal (www.journalde montreal.com). The city’s free cultural newspapers, Cult MTL (monthly; http:// cultmontreal.com) in English and Voir (every two weeks; http://voir. ca) in French, can be found in many public places such as bars, restaurants and certain boutiques. Hockey Professional sports The world-famous Montréal Cana- diens National Hockey League team Car racing plays at the Bell Centre (1260 Rue The Grand Prix du Canada (Cir- De La Gauchetière Ouest, 514-790- cuit Gilles-Villeneuve, Île Notre- 2525 or 877-668-8269, www.canadiens.com). There are 82 games Dame, 514-350-0000, www. during the regular season, 42 of circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca) is held in which are played at home. Then the middle of June. Grand Prix wee- come the playoffs, at the end of kend features a wide range of events which the winning team takes home both around the racetrack and in the the legendary Stanley Cup. Tickets city, notably on Rue Crescent. are often snapped up weeks or even months in advance. Football The Montréal Alouettes (Canadian Soccer Football League) play at the Per- The Montréal Impact, the city’s cival Molson Stadium (475 Ave- soccer team, plays at the Saputo nue des Pins Ouest, 514-787-2525, Stadium (Parc Olympique, 4750

Practical MontréalPractical www.montrealalouettes.com). The Rue Sherbrooke Est, 514-328- regular season begins in late May 3668, www.impactmontreal.com) and ends in late October. from March to October. A profes- Useful information 189

Formula 1 Grand Prix at Circuit Gilles Villeneuve sional team, member of the Ame- New Year rican Major League Soccer, the January 1st Impact presents great soccer just Good Friday like in Europe. Easter Monday Tennis Journée Nationale des Patriotes At Uniprix Stadium (Parc Jarry, Monday before May 25th 285 Rue Faillon Ouest, 514-273- 1234 or 866-338-2685, www. Québec National Holiday (Saint-Jean-Baptiste) , the best tennis stadeuniprix.com) June 24th players in the world compete each year in early August in the Rogers Canada Day Cup (www.rogerscup.com). The July 1st tournament’s games are divided Labour Day between Montréal and Toronto. First Monday in September Thanksgiving Public holidays Second Monday in October The following is a list of public holi- Remembrance Day days in Québec. Most administra- November 11th MontréalPractical tive offices and banks are closed on Christmas and Boxing Day these days. December 25th and 26th 190 Practical Montréal  Street Cuisine

After being banned in 1947, street cuisine finally returned to Montréal in 2013. But not just any street cuisine! Forget hot dog carts and get ready for a unique gourmet experience. The trailers have to meet not only strict hygiene standards, but also exacting selection criteria for the selection and quality of the dishes. The result is a variety and quality well in keeping with the city’s reputation for fine cuisine. Prices vary but are generally reasonable ($-$$).

The project is still getting started, and for the time being is limited to about 30 trailers in predetermined locations from May to October. To find out more, including current locations, check out www.cuisinederue. org and www.streetfoodmtl.com. 

Restaurants and especially two unique, signature treats of Jewish origin: Montréal Montréal has long been firmly esta- bagels and Montréal smoked meat. blished as a capital of haute cui- Although you may have learned dif- sine. The city’s chefs, each more ferently in your French classes, Que- inventive than the last, combine becers refer to breakfast as déjeuner, an emphasis on fresh local pro- lunch as dîner and dinner as souper. ducts with a passion for flavours Many restaurants offer a “daily spe- and styles from around the world. cial” (called spécial du jour). The table The result is creative, colourful, and d’hôte (a choice of appetizers and delectable cuisine blending the tra- main dishes, plus coffee and dessert) ditional and the exotic. is also an attractive option. Montréal restaurants also give excel- The “Exploring Montréal” section lent value for money; even the fan- contains numerous listings for res- ciest are much more affordable than taurants in each neighbourhood. in other big cities. The originality and Note that reservations are often quality of the city’s fast food is also Practical MontréalPractical remarkable: it’s known across Canada wise, and sometimes a necessity. for its steamed hotdogs (steamés), Unless otherwise specified, prices souvlaki, the celebrated poutine, in this guide are for a meal for one Useful information 191

Grumman ’78’s street food truck. person, excluding drinks, taxes (see Telecommunications p. 191) and tip (see p. 193). The area code for the island of $ less than $15 Montréal is 514; a second “overlay” $$ $15 to $25 area code (438) has been progres- $$$ $26 to $50 sively introduced. The area code for $$$$ more than $50 the region around the island is 450, with an overlay area code 579; most Some of the restaurants in this of these two area codes, including guide are particularly noteworthy; the Montréal suburbs, are a local look for the Ulysses label ù first. call from the city. Note that since 2006, the area code must be dial- Taxes led before all phone numbers in the Unlike in Europe, the ticket price on 514, 438, 450, and 579 area codes. items usually does not include tax. For long-distance calls, dial 1 fol- Two taxes are charged on goods lowed by the area code, then the and services, the 5% GST (fede- seven-digit number. Telephone ral Goods and Services Tax, TPS in numbers preceded by 800, 855, French), and the 9.975% QST (Qué- 866, 877 or 888 are toll-free from bec sales tax, TVQ in French). . An Canada and sometimes even from additional 3.5% tax is also added the United States. Note that you MontréalPractical to all accommodations in Montréal must dial 1 before toll-free num- except youth hostels (see p. 176). bers. To reach an operator, dial 0. To 192 Practical Montréal

The 2-22 building, home to La Vitrine.

call the U.K., dial 011-44 followed by You’ll need a credit card. Service the local area code and number. fees, which vary from event to event, are added to the ticket price. Though their numbers have been dwindling, public telephones can La Vitrine still be found in many public places. every day 11am to 8pm; 2 Rue Ste-Catherine Rates are less expensive than in Est, 514-285-4545 or 866-924-5538, Europe; unlimited-time local calls www.lavitrine.com cost 50¢. For long-distance calls, For last-minute tickets at reduced stock up on quarters or purchase a prices, head to this outlet on Rue telephone card. These are available Sainte-Catherine. at newsstands, some convenience stores, drugstores, and gas stations. Time zones Québec is in the Eastern Standard Tickets Time zone (except for the Îles de la Madeleine, or Magdalen Islands, Admission: 855-790-1245, which are an hour ahead). This puts www.admission.com the province 3hrs ahead of Pacific Ticketpro Time (west coast of North Ame- 514-790-1111 or 866-908-9090, rica), 5hrs behind Greenwich and

Practical MontréalPractical www.ticketpro.ca 6hrs behind most continental Euro- These ticket networks sell tickets pean countries. Daylight-saving for shows, concerts, and sporting time starts on the second Sunday events over the phone or online. in March and ends one week later Useful information 193 than it previously did, on the first Travellers Sunday in November. with disabilities Tipping Kéroul In general, tipping applies to all 4545 Avenue Pierre-De Coubertin, Montréal, table and bar service: restaurants, QC, H1V 0B2, 514-252-3104, www.keroul.qc.ca bars and nightclubs (no tipping in Kéroul is a non-profit organisa- fast-food restaurants). Tipping is tion that collaborates with Tou- also standard in taxis. risme Québec to develop, promote and provide information on tou- The tip is usually about 15% of rism infrastructures and cultu- the bill before taxes, but varies, of ral events that are accessible to course, depending on the quality of people with disabilities throughout service. Unlike in Europe, tips are the province. not included in the bill, so it is up to the client to calculate it and give it Association Québécoise to the server. Airport skycaps and pour le Loisir des Personnes hotel bellhops generally receive $1 Handicapées per bag; hotel maids get $1 to $2 4545 Avenue Pierre-De Coubertin, C.P. 1000, per person per day. Failing to tip is succ. M, Montréal, QC, H1V 3R2, 514-252-3144, very poorly regarded! www.aqlph.qc.ca Contact the AQLPH for informa- Tourist information tion on groups that organize rec- reational and sporting activities for Centre Infotouriste people with disabilities. de Montréal late Jun to late August every day 9am to 7pm; Sep, Oct and Apr to late Jun every day 9am to Wine, beer 6pm; Nov to Mar every day 9am to 5pm; and alcohol 1255 Rue Peel corner Rue Ste-Catherine; 514-873-2015 or 877-266-5687, In Québec, the sale of alcohol is www.tourisme-montreal.org; Peel metro regulated by a provincial authori- The city’s tourist centre provides ty, the Société des Alcools du detailed information, maps, flyers Québec (SAQ), which runs the and accommodation information province’s liquor stores. To find the for Montréal and all the tourist nearest outlet, call 514-254-2020 regions of Québec. or visit the SAQ Web site: www. saq.com. Bureau d’Accueil Touristique Good imported and domestic du Vieux-Montréal: Apr and May every day 10am to 6pm, Jun to Sep every day beers and decent wines are also MontréalPractical 9am to 7pm, Oct every day 10am to 6pm; 174 sold in supermarkets and dépan- Rue Notre-Dame Est (corner Place Jacques- neurs. Legal age to buy and drink Cartier), 514-873-2015; Champ-de-Mars metro alcohol is 18. 194 Practical Montréal

Calendar of events Piknic Électronik Parc Jean-Drapeau, www.piknicelectronik.com January Open-air concerts with big-name DJs, every Sunday from May to Fête des Neiges September. Parc Jean-Drapeau, www.fetedesneiges.com A family festival celebrating the June pleasures of winter. Suoni Per Il Popolo Casa Del Popolo, 4873 Boulevard St-Laurent, February www.casadelpopolo.com Montréal en Lumière Presents the latest up-and-coming talent in the city’s music scene, as www.montrealenlumiere.com well as established musicians from Light shows, the hugely popular all- around the world. night Nuit Blanche culture festival, concerts and gastronomy bring a bit Mutek www.mutek.org of magic to the dead of winter. World-class electronic music Les Rendez-Vous du Cinéma festival. Québécois FrancoFolies de Montréal www.rvcq.com Quartier des Spectacles, www.francofolies.com Feature-length and short films, Promotes French-language music both fiction and documentaries, by and song. Québec directors. L’International des Feux April Loto-Québec www.montrealfeux.com Blue Metropolis Montréal The world’s top pyrotechnists come International Literary to La Ronde (on Île Sainte-Hélène) to Festival present top-quality musical fireworks www.metropolisbleu.org displays every Wednesday, Friday A showcase of nearly 300 authors and Saturday from late June to from around the world. early August. You can also watch the fireworks from the Jacques Cartier Vues d’Afrique Bridge (closed to traffic on firework www.vuesdafrique.org nights), the riverbanks, and the African and Creole cinema. Clock Tower Beach (see p. 40). May Festival International de Jazz de Montréal Festival TransAmériques Practical MontréalPractical Quartier des Spectacles, www.fta.qc.ca www.montrealjazzfest.com A celebration of contemporary Quite simply, the biggest jazz dance and theatre. festival in the world. Calendar of events 195

Montréal en Lumière.

July with screening of films by Indige- Just for Laughs Festival nous directors. (Festival Juste pour Rire) Montréal Film Festival Quartier des Spectacles, www.hahaha.com (Festival des Films du Monde Shows by comedians from around de Montréal) the world. www.ffm-montreal.org Divers/Cité A cinema competition screening Village et Vieux-Montréal, www.diverscite.org Montréal’s lesbian, gay, bisexual, films from around the world. and trans pride festival. October August Festival du Nouveau Cinéma Montréal Pride www.nouveaucinema.ca (Fierté‑Montréal) Digital creation and independent second week of August; 514-903-6193, cinema. www.fiertemontrealpride.com The city’s colourful LGBT pride December parade. Salon des Métiers d’Art Montréal First du Québec Peoples Festival Place Bonaventure, (Présence Autochtone) MontréalPractical Place des Festivals, www.nativelynx.qc.ca www.salondesmetiersdart.com A “village” showcasing Canadian Québec artisans exhibit and sell Indigenous artists and craftspeople, their work.