PersonalSTANDARDIZED PLANT Care EXTRACTS October 2020 Olepent® pTeroWhite® Firming and repairing peptide 2 new studies SPF, Anti-Aging, Skin Brightening Olepent® is the last innovation from Sabinsa, a skin firming and repair- ing peptide complexed with natural Two new studies have recently been published on the topical benefits of triterpenoid that has the potential to Sabinsa’s pTeroWhite® natural pterostilbene isolated and purified from stimulate the skin’s natural produc- Pterocarpus marsupium heartwood and formulated as a cream. The stud- tion of collagen, restore structure of ies further the body of science into pTeroWhite®’s value as a cosmeceuti- the skin and minimize the effect of cal ingredient for anti-aging, skin brightening, and as a natural SPF agent degrading enzymes. (studies at 0.4% pTeroWhite® in a cream). The over activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes result in wrinkles, fine Skin Brightening and Anti aging - 38 people, dermatological assessment, expression lines, thinning of skin, hyperpigmentation, dark circles of eyes together with instrumental and image analysis. It improves skin brightness, and premature aging. The triterpenoid peptides have dual action for skin ag- elasticity, reduces the appearance of under-eye fine lines, wrinkles, and im- ing and collagen insufficiency. These act by inhibiting oxidation and excess proves skin texture. Positive change at all time points in skin hydration and activity of elastase and collagenases. Addition of peptides which augment elasticity in both male and female subjects collagen and other matrix protein, triterpenoid peptides provide complete Sun Protection Factor - 12 and 25 people. In vivo SPF value of 6.2 ±1.30 protection against anti-aging. Similarly, oleanolic acid act as an effective (8.84 ±0.01 cream in vitro, and 21.73 ±0.06 as the ingredient pTeroWhite®). agent in reducing the signs of aging due to oxidation, collagen insufficiency Further, the study demonstrated the potent antioxidant effects of pTeroW- and over activity of enzymes like elastase and collagenase. hite® in various in vitro and cellular test systems. The cream was found to be safe and nonirritant (25 people). LactoSporin®: Novel Probiotic Centellin® Metabolite For Skin and Hair Centella extract and cracked feet

Sabinsa announces the introduction of LactoSporin®, A new study published has evaluated the efficacy an ingredient for cosmeceutical products that has and safety of a formulation with Centellin® CG in anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and a foot care cream (CCFC) in the management of anti-collagenase properties, shows protective effi- cracked heels through cell culture and human clini- cacy against UV radiation, environmental pollutants, cal studies. and prevents microbial biofilm formation, induces It shows a beneficial effect on cell proliferation, collagen synthesis and hair growth, and prevents accelerated skin aging… significantly improves wound healing in the fibroblast scratch wound model. LactoSporin® is prepared by a patented technology in a defined growth It also increased skin moisturizing. The findings demonstrate that CCFC media. It is standardized preparation for antimicrobial activity with a broad helps in healing of cracks, reducing scaling and pain. None of the volunteers spectrum of activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. experienced any hypersensitivity reactions. LactoSporin® is an ingredient for cosmeceutical products that has antimi- crobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-collagenase properties, shows protective efficacy against UV radiation, environmental pollutants, Cococin® and prevents microbial biofilm formation, induces hair growth, and prevents accelerated skin aging – so diverse exciting applications of LactoSporin®. Fresh and Long moisturizer, Hair

Cococin® is a tender coconut extract, produced by Glabridin 98 Skin lightening a unique lyophilisation process to ensure that the solids retain optimum biological activity. It is non-ir- ritating to the skin and rich in nutrients that provide We offer from 4% Glabridin licorice extract, to a purified long-term moisturization and support blood circula- product providing 98% Glabridin. tion. “The Nourishment Factor”. Cococin® targets Glabridin is renowned for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase cell growth (in the hair follicle), as well as inhibiting and its anti-inflammatory properties, achieved through 5-α reductase. It is recommended for use in regenerative skincare products the inhibition of cyclo-oxygenase in the arachidonic acid and preparations, thanks to its cytokine and mineral concentrations. It also cascade. The highest purified grade is standardized at ≥98% HPLC improves skin elasticity and tone and decrease roughness, while nurturing keratinous tissue to potentially reduce the appearance of the signs of aging. Boswellin® Psoriasis Tetrapure®

NEWS Skin, Hair & Nails Sabisna’s Boswellia extract cream can be used to manage mild to moderate psoriasis TetraPure® is Natural anti-fungal remedy for Skin, through its anti-inflammatory Hair (anti-dandruff) & Nails. It’s a white to off white effets. crystalline powder. compose of Tetrahydrocurcumi- noides - as from Curcuma longa, but white. This product can be used as an antioxidant. The cream with Boswellin from Sabinsa, Boswellia serrata Roxb extract TetraPure® shows great anti-mycosis and anti-dan- standardized for 5% of 95% 3O Acetyl-11 Keto Beta Boswellic Acid (AKBBA) druff activities. It completely inhibits the growth of was studied in an open label, multi centered phase III clinical trial, evaluating dermatophytes Trichophyton rubrum, Microsporum 200 psoriatic patients with application of AKBBA cream three times daily for gypseum and Epidermophyton flocossum. a period of 12 weeks. The researchers observed significant changes in LTB4 It enhances the activity against Malassezia furfur at all tested concentration. (p<0.001) & TNF alpha (p<0.01) values from the baseline along with signifi- It reduces the colony counts of Candida albicans to less than 100cfu / ml. cant changes (p<0.05) in VEGF & PGE2. As other actives of the family of THC, Tetrapure shows tyrosinase inhibition Study : “Clinical evaluation of AKBBA in the management of psoriasis” as well as great inhibition of Melamin.

2 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 Becarre Natural represents, distributes and Topical products develops natural actives supported by sciences Last News...... 2 for nutrition, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical Why Becarre Natural...... 3 purposes from manufacturers selected for their Key Products...... 4 seriousness, quality and competencies. Plants list (Latin names)...... 7 New : LactoSporin ...... 8 Becarre Natural acts as the centralized sales and New : Olepent ...... 9 marketing organization for selected manufacturers Skin Lightening ...... 10 of plants extracts, either as your local contact or Comparison table sheet...... 11 through appointed distributors who are then in Boswellin...... 11 direct contact with the manufacturers but followed Two Ways Anti-Inflammatory Boswellin Rich AKBBA Boswellin and Psoriasis up by Becarre Natural. Anti-acne...... 12 Cosmoperine...... 12 Because industrials are more looking for reliability Enhancer of Actives and nutrients and know-how than an immeasurable list of Cococin...... 13 products, Becarre Natural focuses on a specific origin The Nourishment Factor of activities: standardized actives extracted from Rhodiola...... 14 Stress Support and Wrinkles the nature under very strict process of production, Foslean...... 15 with proven efficacy and sustainable resources. As Forskohlin Coleus (Plectranthus) per today, Becarre Natural represents by agreement TetraPure...... 15 different manufacturers, including Sabinsa Corp., Anti-fungal remedy for Skin, Hair & Nails Nektium, Isocell, Inoreal, … besides few others What means ‘extract’ ?...... 16 Process and terms specific extracts from reputed sources. Our Partners...... 39 As the right note at the right time makes the music, the right product in the right formulation makes Reverse Side - Nutritional your success . ‘Becarre’ - that you may pronounce ‘be Last News 4 Starmeric 30 care’ - is the French word for the musical mark which Why Becarre Natural 7 Boswellin 31 Products by properties 8 Pomegranate 32 cancels the alterations such sharp sign or flat signs. Key Products 11 Cococin 33 Zynamite 18 Elim’Real 33 The English translation is ‘the natural sign’ . Promond 20 Lactospore 34 Gugulipid 20 BioPerine 35 Tinofolin 21 Rhaponticum 36 Satiereal 22 Digezyme 36 Curcumin C3 Complex 23 Forslean 37 Rhodiolife 24 Selection of previous news 38 Bacopa 25 Plant Decree 39 Bromelain / Papain 26 L’Arrêté Plante 40 Nigelllin 27 Some regulatory decrees 41 Ellagic Acid 27 A selection of decrees 42 GliSODin 28 Our Quality Partners 43 enXtra 30 What is an ‘extract’ ? 44

BECARRE Natural 149 rue d’Estienne d’Orves F-92140 Clamart [email protected] www.becarre-natural.com

Gontran GAILLOT General Manager +33 [0]6 86 54 83 48 +33 [0]9 56 09 05 39 [email protected] gontran.gaillot www.becarre-natural.com Extracts for every facet becarre-natural BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 3 KEY PRODUCTS

Anti-inflammatory, Weight control, Moisturizer, Sun protection, Antifungal, Joints, Skin Satiety Hydration Tanning Antibacterial

Minerals, Synthetic, Skin, Lightening, Antioxidant, Dark circles, Intermediates Hair, Nails Whitening ADN Puffiness

PteroWhite® 90 Olepent® Sun protection, Skin lightening Unique patented pentapeptide : Firming and repairing

Source: Pterocarpus marsupium Inci : Oleanoyl sh-Pentapeptide-4 Inci : A Pterocarpus Marsupium Wood Extract Off white powder, slighly hygroscopic Dose : 0.1-0.5% in creams / lotions / gels Peptides are the newest ingredients in anti-ageing skin care that are highly effec- Bio-active ingredients: 90.0% Pterostilbene by HPLC tive actives and are utilized in the most premium care products. PteroWhite is standardized at 90% min. of pterostilbene, a molecule better ab- Olepent® has a dual mechanism both as a firming and repairing peptide sorbed, and more biologically active than resveratrol : antifungal properties are Firming Peptide 5-10 times more powerful, inhibition of DNA synthesis, highest induction of à Stimulated the skin’s natural production of collagen PPARα, selective COX-2 inhibitory action, inhibition of melanogenesis and sup- à Restores the structure of the skin and smoothens wrinkles port of skin tone lightening and dyschromia management and protection of the à Minimizes the effect of degrading enzymes skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation. Repairing Peptide Two new studies recently published : à Provides anti-inflammatory support Skin Brightening and Anti aging : improves skin brightness, elasticity, reduces à Helps in repairing skin barrier dysfunction the appearance of under-eye fine lines, wrinkles, and improves skin texture à Repairs skin injury caused by wound or photo-damage Sun Protection Factor - 12 and 25 people. In vivo SPF value of 6.2 ±1.30 (8.84 ±0.01 cream in vitro, and 21.73 ±0.06 as the ingredient pTeroWhite®) Tetrapure® Natural anti-fungal remedy for Skin, Hair (anti-dandruff) & Nails LactoSporin® Novel Probiotic Metabolite For Skin and Hair Source: Vanillin and Acetylacetone Inci: Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane Dose : 0.1-0.5% w/w (Skin Lightening), 0.15% w/w (Anti-fungal) Source: Bacillius Bio-active ingredients: 99% Tetrahydrocurcumin Research reveals that Tet- Inci : Bacillus Ferment Filtrate Extract rahydrocurcumin (THC) is one of the major metabolites of Curcumin. THC is re- Antimicrobial activity : nlt 200 AU / ml against Micrococcus luteus ported to exhibit many of the same physiological and pharmacological actions Protein : nlt 1.0 w/v (Lowry’s Method) as Curcumin, in some systems, better. It can be used safely (tests available) in Pale yellow to brown color clear to hazy liquid with characteristic odor shampoo, cream, lotion, spray or powder form. Launched on 2019, is an ingredient for cosmeceutical products that has anti- Anti-Fungal activity: TetraPure® shows anti-mycosis and anti-dandruff activities. microbial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-collagenase properties, shows à It completely inhibits the growth of dermatophytes Trichophyton rubrum, protective efficacy against UV radiation, environmental pollutants, and prevents Microsporum gypseum and Epidermophyton flocossum microbial biofilm formation, induces hair growth, and prevents accelerated skin à It enhances the activity against Malassezia furfur - all tested concentration aging – so diverse exciting applications of LactoSporin. à It reduces the colony counts of Candida albicans to less than 100cfu / ml. Skin care : showed potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-collagenase and so... it’s also an anti-dandruff UV protection potential, thus playing a protective role to the skin Tetrahydrocurcumin adapts a two pronged approach to the free radical on- Hair Care : stimulated the anagen phase of follicular cell growth by increasing the slaught (ORAC > 10 000 / g) proliferation of dermal papilla cells and by inhibiting 5a-reductase activity. à Prevention of free radical formation. Oral Care : significant reduction (for about 12 hours) in the growth, rate of pH à Intervention whereby already preformed radicals are quenched by THC. drop (prevention from detrimental acidic environment) and glucan production was Skin Lightening : as other actives of the family of THC, Tetrapure shopws a ty-

observed in S. mutans within 5 minutes of the LactoSporin rosinase inhibition of 1.8 IC50µg/ml - so much better than Kojic acid (7) or Vitamin C (9.33), as well as great inhibition of Melamin (better than Vit. C - 25 - or Kojic ro Arbutin - 100).

PERSONAL CARE Glabridine 98% Skin whitening, Anti-inflammatory Venocin® 90 Blood Circulation, Wound Healing Effects, Anti-inflammatory

Source: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Inci : Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Source: Aesculus hippocastanum Dose : 0.05% - 1% depending on concentration of Glabridine Inci : Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract Bio-active ingredients: 4% to 90% Glabridine (98% in partnership) Dose : 1-3.0% in creams / lotions / gels Glabridine is the main compound in the hydrophobic fraction of licorice extract. It Bio-active ingredients: 90.0% Triterpene glycosides as Escin is known for its beneficial effects on the skin due to its anti-inflammatory and -an Escin is a mixture of saponins that is known to help maintain healthy blood circula- tioxidant properties. In addition, Glabridine greatly inhibits melanogenesis. Some tion and strengthen the capillaries and veins. Horse chestnut extract is clinically researchers have established that this effect may be due to the inhibition of tyrosi- proven to be beneficial to people suffering from varicose veins, spider veins, hem- nase activity, and Inhibition of the production of active oxygen species. orrhoids and related circulatory problems or “chronic venous insufficiency” (CVI)

4 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 SabiWhite® Cococin® Skin lightener, Evening skin tone, UVB protectant Hair Growth, Moisturizer Restore the skin health in aged and damaged skin

Source: Curcuma longa Inci : Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane Source: Fresh tender coconuts Cocos Nucifera Dose : 0.05-2.0% in creams / lotions Inci : Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice Bio-active ingredients: 95% Tetrahydrocurcumin Dose : 0.5% - 2.0% Patented color-free natural extract derived from turmeric roots with proven lumi- Cococin is « The Nourishment Factor® » that provides a valuable nutrient pool nosity boosting and skin tone lightening effects. A potent inhibitor of melanogene- for enhancing food and beverage, as well as cosmetic product formulations. sis, and antioxidant protection benefiting skin tone, texture and integrity. A double Cococin can be safely used in oral care as well as lip care compositions. blind placebo controlled clinical study with Fairness cream with 0.2% proved the Helps restore the skin health in aged and damaged skin : Coconut water is significant decrease in melanin content. rich in quinic acid and shikimic acid which acts as free radical scavenger and play important role in biosynthesis of polyphenols Augments new cell growth while promoting healthy tissues / hair : Cococin™ has been evaluated for its efficacy as a hair growth promoter, in comparison with Minoxidil as standard Helps in wound healing : Coconut water also contains cytokinins , which are Boswellin® also involved in healthy cell growth and differentiation for additional skin restoration Under eye, Puffiness, Night repair, Age-defying, Anti-ageing Helps in skin hydration : It provides reservoir of vitamins, minerals, RNA phos- Psoriasis - Anti-inflammatory phates and organic acids that support tissue health. Nutrition and reviving skin, and healthy tissue. Sabinsa has developed and patented Cococin + Saberry, synergistic formulation Source: Boswellia serrata gum to promote healthy hair growth granted patent for «Protective Compositions for Inci : Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract Dermal Papilla Cells». Dose : 0.5-2% Bio-active ingredients: AKBBA, b boswellic acids, >75% Boswellic acid Anti-inflammatory : Boswellin¨ is a natural extract from the gum resin. Boswellin¨ contains boswellic acids that inhibit two pro-inflammatory enzymes 5-lipoxygen- ase and elastase, thereby supporting skin texture and integrity. Inhibiting. inflam- mation is known to be an effective approach to slow skin aging. Trials on 22 women, for 4 weeks Saberry® There was a reduction of dark circles on application of the cream vs. application Water soluble skin lightening agent, Hair care of placebo : A double blind placebo controlled clinical study was conducted on 21 healthy female subjects in the age group of 20-35 years. The subjects were provided with “Under Eye cream” containing 1% of Boswellin (and other natural Source: Emblica officinalis fruits (Amla) ingredients) and a placebo, to be applied under each eye twice a day for a period Inci : Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract of 4 weeks. The appearance of dark circles and puffiness was assessed by a Dose : 0.2-1% w/w dermatologist at predetermined time intervals Bio-active ingredients: 10% b-Glucogallin, 50% gallates (tanins) A new clinical study of AKBBA in the management of psoriasis has been pub- Amla extract helps protect the skin from the damaging effects of free radicals lished in Clinical Dermatology 2014 : open label, multi centered phase III clinical tri- and heavy-metal induced oxidative stess. It also increases pro-collagen type I al, evaluating 200 psoriatic patients with application of AKBBA cream three times C-peptide and tissue inhibitor of metallo-proteinase 1 (TIMP-1) production, and daily for a period of 12 weeks. This concerns a specific grade of Boswellia extract decreases MMP-1 production, concomitant with elevated mitochondrial activity in standardized for 90-95% of 3-O Acetyl-11 Keto Beta Boswellic Acid (AKBBA). the fibroblast, in a concentration-dependant manner. Skin Whitening : Skin lightening by inhibition of melanin formation, stronger mela- nin than ascorbic acid. Melanogenesis inhibitory activity against both MSH and cAMP induced melanogenesis at IC50 14μg/ml MMP-1 Inhibitor : Amla Extract has been reported to inhibit MMP-1 production from fibroblasts. Saberry also showed mild anti-tyrosinase activity compared to Bacopa Kojic acid, using the mushroom tyrosinase activity assay (Saberry IC50 321μg/ml) Skin damage, premature wrinkles, age spots ORAC hydro: 267 800 µmol TE/100g / Orac lipo: 400 µmol TE/100g PERSONAL CARE HORAC: 34 500 µmol CAE/100g / NORAC: 90 00 µmol TE/100g SORAC: 10 200 µmol kunitsSODeq/100g / SOAC: 135 100 µmol VitE/100g Source: Bacopa monniera UV Protector : Protects the fibroblast cells from UV radiation, with activity higher Inci : Bacopa monniera Extract than ascorbic acid at same concentration. Bio-active ingredients: 20% and 50% total Bacosides (as A & B) 5-alpha reductase inhibitory activity (about 80%) Dose : 3 x 50 mg (children) to 3 x 100 mg (adult) Bacosides and the antioxidants help to dispel toxins epithelium layer, and improve skin complexion and stimulates skin cell regeneration. Brahmi - the other name - is used in treating of psoriasis, eczema, abscess and ulceration. Ayurvedic uses : Memory Enhancing, Anti-inflammatory, Analgesic, Antipyretic, Sedative, Anti-ulcerogenic, Anti-epileptic. Pomegranate Seed Oil Moisturizing, Nourishing, Elasticity, Eczema

Source: Punica granatum – seeds Xymenynic Inci : Punica Granatum Seed Extract Dose : 0.1% - 1% Skin Firmer / Cellulite, Anti-inflammatory, Hair care Bio-active ingredients: Punicic acid ≥ 80% (CLnA) Remarkable ability to nourish, moisturize and repair the epidermis and improve skin elasticity. Source: Santalum album seeds Pomegranate seed oil is commonly used in cosmetic products to revitalize dull or Inci : Xymenynic acid mature skin, assist with wrinkles, and to soothe minor skin irritations, due to its Bio-active ingredients: Xymenynic acid unique composition of fatty acids, mainly punicic acid (CLA). The high content of Dose : 0.2% - 0.5% (up to 1.5% in the oil phase) conjugated fatty acids in pomegranate oil gives it strong anti-inflammatory proper- Traditional used as a dermal application to treat skin lesions. Stimulates the micro- ties and makes it a highly beneficial ingredient in formulations intended to reduce vasculokinetic activity of the scalp. Help preserve the integrity and texture of the swelling and ease muscular aches and pains. Pomegranate oil can promote pro- skin (Hyaluronidase and Collagenase inhibition). collagen synthesis and strengthen the epidermis. It provides relief from minor skin Xymenynic acid improves the skin elasticity and minimizes the damage and imper- irritations and inflammation, including dry skin, eczema, psoriasis and sunburned fections linked to cellulite (orange peel aspect). skin.

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 5 Centellin® CG Fucoxanthin [U-HPLC] Wound healing, aged skin, dermal itch, cracked feet and heels Antioxidant, Protection against UV induced damage in the skin, Anti- pigmentary activity

Source: Centella asiatica Inci : Centella Asiatica Extract Source: Undaria Wakame Dose : 0.5-2.0% in soothing creams / lotions Inci : Fucoxanthin / Laminaria Japonica Extract Bio-active ingredients: 40% Saponins Triterpenes Dose : 0.05-1.5% Well-known activity for wound healing, studies with Centellin CG showed an in- Bio-active ingredients: Fucoxanthin UPLC, Fatty acids (PUFA) crease by 40% of the dermal fibroblast proliferation, and up to 20% collagen The scavenging activity of fucoxanthin is almost 8 times higher than that by fu- synthesis. coxanthinol, and more than 13 times higher than that by alpha-tocopherol. Uri- Cracked feet : Recent studies published has evaluated the efficacy and safety kura et al. showed that fucoxanthin significantly suppressed ultraviolet B-induced of a formulation with Centellin® CG in a foot care cream, and demonstrated that epidermal hypertrophy, which may cause wrinkle formation, vascular endothelial it helps in healing of cracks, reducing scaling and pain, without any reports of growth factor, matrix metalloproteinases-13 expression, and the increase of thio- hypersensitivity reactions (24 participants presenting cracks or fissure in feet, es- barbituric acid reactive substances (test irradiated cells and MMP expression). pecially in the heel region). Topical treatment with fucoxanthin prevents skin photoage and wrinkle formation in ultraviolet B-irradiated hairless mice, possibly through the antioxidant and anti- angiogenic effects of fucoxanthin : sunscreen for photoaging.

Rhodiola Anti-ageing, Anti wrinkle, Sensitive, Sun Pomegranate P40P Antioxidant, Anti-ageing, Lightening Source: Rhodiola rosea – roots from Altai mountains under social responsibil- ity program, more than 5 years aged – unique licence and partnership with Russia Source: Punica granatum – mashed fruits Inci : Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract Inci : Punica Granatum Extract Dose : 0.1%-0.3% Dose : 0.5% - 5% Bio-active ingredients: Rosavins 3-15%, Salidroside 1-5% Bio-active ingredients: Total punicosides ≥ 40%, Punicalagins A+B ≥ 30%, Skin Barriers: Study (2008, «Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology“) showed that Total polyphenols ≥ 50% extracts of Rhodiola rosea improved the skin’s defensive barrier functions against There are several cosmetic formulations that include an extract of pomegran- the stress of ultra violet rays. Subjects of this study were classified as having ate juice or oil. Pomegranate is rich in ingredients such as vitamins B5 and C, sensitive skin. potassium, polyphenols etc., that enhance the beauty and life of skin. It is a Elastin: increases components needed by the body to create elastin. good source of ellagic acid and antioxidants, which are helpful in destroying free Collagen: elevates the number of hydroxyproline and hexosamine molecules, radicals. It’s so a great remedy for skin that is damaged due to sun exposure or needed to make collagen (dermis, 2nd layer). aging, to get smooth and youthful skin. Antioxidant: pharmacological active compounds (esp. rosavins), which are able Pomegranate is said to extend the life of fibroblasts, for the production of collagen to assist the body systems with oxygen deprivation, stress and immune support and elastin. Collagen and elastin pump up the skin and render it elasticity. This - all important considerations for skin management. in turn, keeps the skin youthful for years and minimizes the visibility of wrinkles. Natural pomegranate extract contains very few ellagic although it’s the usual mentioned assay, which is a metabolite by hydrolyzation of the punicalagin (1 punicalagin gives 2 ellagic acid). However, Ellagic acid has be studied orally for its activity as skin lightening. Ursolic, Ursolate Anti-ageing, Anti-wrinkle, Collagen build up ...Nutricosmetics Source: Salvia officinalis Inci : Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract Bio-active ingredients: Standardized in Ursolic acid or even ursolate (70% Beauty that reflects on the exterior Ursolic acid Na salt and up to 30% of Oleanolic acid Na salt), from Sage (Rose- Hence, getting the “beauty from within” concept depends mary available). upong the integrity and functioning of various pro- à Tissue repair, anti-inflammatory (resistant barrier on skin/ hair) cesses, inside and otuside. à Collagen and elastin synthesis à Beneficial to the overall health and functions of photo-aged skin Saberry: from the fruit of Emblica officinalis, à Efficient inhibitor of Human Leukocyte Elastase with potent antioxidant capabilities (stud- à Hair care for conditioning and repair ies: melanogenesis inhibition, anti- oxidant, UV protection) Ellagic acid: Polyphenol ex- tracted from Punica granatum (studies: melanin formation, Fucoidan Hyperpigmentation manage-

PERSONAL CARE ment Anti-ageing, Skin lightening, Skin protection Silbinol: pterostilbene from Pterocarpus marsupium, as the Source: Laminaria japonica – whole plant pTeroWhite® (studies: suppressor Inci : Laminaria Japonica Extract of AGEs, safety) Bio-active ingredients: Sulfo-Polysaccharides ≥ 40% (85% upon request) Rosemary: from dried leaves of Ros- Sulfated polysaccharide fractions of Fucoidan from Laminaria have shown potent marinus officinalis, rosmarinic and carno- antioxidant activity in in vitro tests. Cell viability and subsequent animal studies sid acids. using Fucoidan as the test substance showed that both immune cells and mice were protected from the oxidative damage induce by ionizing radiation. C3 Reduct: colorless hydrogenated Further testing in rats confirmed that polysaccharides from Laminaria japoni- product from Curcuma longa (antiglycation, ca protected the male reproductive organs from radiation. antioxidant)

6 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 ...A selection for Hair care

Cococin: Extract of tender coconut, in freeze-dried free flowing powder Ursolic and Ursolate: Ursolic acid (from Salvia officinalis or Rosmarinus form (also available in liquid form for compatible solubility for skin and hair officinalis) enhances hair growth by stimulating the peripheral blood flow care formulations). Coconut water works at cellular level due concentrated in the scalp and helps prevent alopecia and dandruff. Ursolic acid has been amounts of Cytokinins (involved in the cell growth and differentiation for a shown also to treat photo-aged skin (prevents the appearance of wrinkles perfect copy of its DNA). Cococin™ has been shown to promote the prolifera- and age spots) by restoring the collagen bundle structures and elasticity. tion of fibroblasts (wound healing potential). It’s also a long term moisturizer. Xymenynic acid from Santalum album : Hair vitality and reduce loss. • Cococin for hair care was compared in vitro on dermal papilla cells with Topically it can be used for its anti-inflammatory properties in the manage- Minoxidil vs Minoxidil alone, with evaluation of “Human Hair Follicle Der- ment of arthritis, as well as helping to preserve the in- mal Papilla Cell Proliferation Assay” and “5-α Reductase Inhibition Assay”. tegrity and texture of the skin in anti-aging Minoxidil 5.0% + Cococin CG 0.25% was found to be the most potent for formulations. In hair care formulations, human hair follicle dermal cell proliferation (41.21%) as compared to a 5% it improves hair vitality since it stimu- Minoxidil solution (32.01%). And inhibition of 5α-reductase (14.88%) in lates the microvasculokinetic ac- comparison to 3.01% for 5% Minoxidil solution. tivity of the scalp Sabinsa developed and patented a formulation based on Cococin and Sa- • acosides from Bacopa m. berry (Amla extract) to promote healthy hair growth B provides proper nutrients LastoSporin : Studies demonstrated that LactoSporin® stimulated the to the hair follicles thus in- anagen phase of follicular cell growth by increasing the proliferation of der- vigorating the hair growth. mal papilla cells and by inhibiting 5α-reductase activity. It improves micro-circula- tion and hair growth. Its Tetrapure: TetraPure® shows great anti-mycosis and anti-dandruff ac- massaging is beneficial in tivities. It completely inhibits the growth of dermatophytes Trichophyton ru- checking dandruff, itchiness, brum, Microsporum gypseum and Epidermophyton flocossum. formation of split ends and flakes It enhances the activity against Malassezia furfur at all tested concentration. It reduces the colony counts of Candida albicans to less than 100cfu / ml. Eclipta alba is reported to im- As other actives of the family of THC, Tetrapure shows tyrosinase inhibition prove hair growth and the black as well as great inhibition of Melamin color of our hair

Plant Name Common actives Plant Name Common actives Aesculus hippocastanum Venocin beta Escin, Terpens Momordica charantia Momordica Bitter Principles, Charantin Amaranthus caudatus Amaranthus Squalene Ocimum sanctum Tulsi Eugenol, Caryophyllene, Ursolic acid Andrographis paniculata Andrographis Andrographolides Olea europaea Olive Oleanolic Acid, Oleuropein Artocarpus lakkochaa Artonox Resveratrol - OxyResveratrol Phyllanthus amarus Phyllanthus Bitter Principles, Phyllanthin, Tannins Asparagus racemosus Shatavari Saponins Piper nigrum Cosmoperine Tetrahydropiperine Bacopa monniera Bacopin Bacosides Policosanol, Coleus, Monolaurin, Plant Formula AcneZero Berberis aristata Berberine Berberine Vitex

Boswellia serrata Boswellin Boswellic Acids, AKBBA, Polysacch. Plant Formula Policoperine Policosanol, Oil, Piperine PERSONAL CARE Boswellia serrata Boswellia Oil Oil Plectranthus barbatus Forslean Forskolin Polygonum cuspidatum Resvenox Resveratrol, Stilbens Camellia sinensis Green Tea Catechins, Polyphenols Pterocarpus marsupium Pterowhite Tannins, Stilbens, Pterocarposide Capsicum annuum Paprika Capsaicin, Chilitenoids, Carotenoids Punica granatum Pomegranate Ellagic Acid Centella asiatica Centella Terpens, Asiaticosides, Saponins Punica granatum Pomegranate Punicosides, Punicalagins, Polyph. Citrus sinensis Hesperidin Hesperidin Punica granatum Pomegranate Punicic acid CLnA Cocos nucifera Cococin Carbohydrate, Minerals, Proteins Quercus infectoria Gallnut Polyphenols Coleus forskohlii Forslean Forskolin Rhodiola rosea Rhodiolife Rosavins, Salidroside Coleus forskohlii Oil Forslean Oil, Pinenes Rosmarinus officinalis Rosemary Carnosic,Ursolic,Rosmarinic,Betulinic Crataeva nurvala Lupeol Lupeol Saccharum officinarum Policosanol Policosanol Salvia officinalis Sage Ursolic Acid, Na Ursolate Curcuma longa Curcumin Turmerones Santalum album Xymenynic Xymenynic Acid Curcuma longa Sabiwhite,THC Tetrahydrocurcuminoids Sapindus trifoliatus Sapindin Saponins Eclipta alba Eclipta Wedelolactone Serenoa repens Saw Palmetto Fatty Acids Embelia Ribes Embelia Embelin Sesamum indicum Sesamin Sesamin Emblica officinalis Amla Saberry beta-Glucogallin Synthesis Alpha Lipoic, 1,2-Hexanediol, Octanediol, Decanediol Ginkgo biloba Ginkgo Biloba Flavone, Terpens, Lactones Terminalia Terminalia Arjunolic, Saponins, Tannns, Ellagic Glycine max Soy Isoflavones Undaria pinnatifida Fucoxanthin Fucoxanthin Glycyrrhiza glabra Glabridin Glabridin (4-98%) Vitex agnus castus Vitex Artemetin Vitex negungo Vitex Agnuside Inula racemosa Inula Lactones Withania somnifera Ashwagandha Withanolides, Alkaloids, Withaferin Kaempferia galanga Galanga Cinnamate Zingiber officinale Ginger Gingerols Laminaria japonica Fucoidan Sulfopolysaccharides, Fucoidan Chromium Picolinate, Seleno-Methionine, Methyl Sele- Mangifera indica Mango Mangiferin Minerals nocystein, Molybden Methionate, Gamma-Glutamyl-L- Melia azadirachta Neemoids Limonoids Selenomethionine, N-Acetyl L-Cyst., etc…

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 7 FOCUS ® LactoSporin Novel Probiotic Metabolite for Skin, Hair and Oral Hygiene

actoSporin® is a non-living microbial Anti-aging effects of LactoSporin® cell product having biological activity. LactoSporin® is a non-living Anti-collagenase activity : UV radiation in- It is purified from the culture superna- duces the collagen degradation by enhanc- microbial cell product having tant of probiotic strain, B. coagulans ing the activity of collagenases, a type of ma- LMTCC 5856 (LactoSpore®) with an INCI name trix metalloproteases (MMPs) (Sanches Silveira and biological activity : Antimicro- - Bacillus Ferment Filtrate Extract. Myaki Pedroso 2014). bial activity, antiageing effects Skin microbiome LactoSporin® inhibited the collagenase activ- and hair growth promotion The normal human skin is a microbiome ity (percentage inhibition) in a dose-depen- colonized by 10,000 – 1,000,000 beneficial dent manner with an IC50 of 1.8% v/v. Thus, microorganisms, especially bacterial units/ LactoSporin® can preserve the extracellular cm2 that prevent the growth of pathogenic matrix of the skin and prevent wrinkle forma- Beneficial effects of LactoSporin® tion and skin sagging. organisms and maintain the immunity of the LactoSporin® has wide applicability starting from oral Antioxidant activity : Reactive oxygen spe- skin and nourish the skin optimally with an health to UV protection, anti-collagenase, and anti- cies (ROS), the major contributor for ageing is established safety profile. inflammatory: generated from mitochondria (Rinnerthaler et al., Skin microbiome protect the skin by : 2015). It acts as the major factor in developing à They act as a protective shield by prevent- the oxidative stress that exceeds the antioxi- ing pathogenic microorganisms from pro- dant defence of the target cell. UV radiations voking an immune reaction are the major extrinsic factor that generates à They produce antimicrobial metabolites the ROS leading to sun-induced skin ageing to combat pathogenic bacteria (photo-ageing) (Poljšak and Dahmane 2012; Xu et al., à They boost the skin’s functionality in 2017). dealing with external damaging factors LactoSporin® showed dose-dependent DPPH including free radicals, sun, and pollution scavenging effect with an IC50 of 0.43%. This à They help the skin stay hydrated result emphasises the role of LactoSporin® à Restore a healthy pH balance in the skin as a potent antioxidant in cosmetic prepara- tions. These functions creates a calming environ- ment for the skin, help to reduce inflamma- Anti-glycation effect : Glycation is the pro- tion, flare ups and prevents premature aging. cess of undesired cross-linking of collagen proteins with sugar molecules, eventually im- Next level postbiotics pairing the function of collagen fibres, mak- These are the water soluble, non-living mi- ing the skin hard and aged in appearance Hair growth promotion with LactoSporin® crobial cell products, fractions, lysates or (Chaudhuri et al., 2018). The anti-glycation effect Hair is one of the fastest growing tissues of the hu- metabolites obtained from microorganisms of LactoSporin® was performed using ribose man body. Hair follicles undergo repetitive regenera- possessing biological activity (Patel and Denning sugar and bovine serum albumin. tive cycles consisting of anagen (rapid growth, active 2013). It has various advantages over probiot- LactoSporin® was found to inhibit the forma- stage), catagen (regression, physiological involution ics (Aguilar-Toalá et al., 2018). tion of AGEs by 50% with an IC50 of 0.7% v/v. stage), and telogen (resting stage). Hair proliferation à Biological activity in non-viable state Thus, inhibition of AGE formation by the re- is controlled by androgen hormones (e.g. testoster- à Lower chance for microbial translocation tardation of the collagen fibres glycation pro- one). Androgens shorten the anagen phase by target- à Lower chance for microbial infection vides the skin with youthful and aesthetically ing dermal papilla cells (DPCs) of the hair follicle. The à Improved inflammatory defence pleasant appearance (83% Inhibition at 2%, 5α-dihydrotestosterone (potent active metabolite gen- à Favourable physiochemical properties 56% @1%, 36% @0.5%) erated by 5α-reductase) has greater affinity towards -an (solubility) drogen receptors in DPCs. Thus, extending the anagen UV protection effect : Humans are mostly af- à Favorable pharmacokinetic properties phase is an effective treatment for the prevention of hair fected by UV-A followed by UV-B. UV-B being (absorption, distribution, metabolism, loss. and excretion) shorter in wavelength and higher power ra- diation can easily penetrates deeper into the LactoSporin® capability of hair growth promotion was tissues of the skin. Thus, causing structural assessed by estimating the proliferation of Human Fol- LactoSporin® damage to the DNA and induce apoptosis. licle Dermal Papilla cells (HFDPC) in vitro. Whereas, UV-A radiation is mostly respon- LactoSporin® induced 29.7% à A standardized antimicrobial product sible for the generation of ROS such as super- proliferation of dermal papilla à It’s an extracellular protein metabolite oxide anion, hydrogen peroxide and singlet cells and 16.2% inhibition of obtained from the supernatant of oxygen, causing ROS-mediated inflammatory 5α-reductase activity in vitro probiotic strain, B. coagulans MTCC skin damage (Sanches Silveira and Myaki Pedroso 2014). at 0.5% v/v LactoSporin® con- 5856 (LactoSpore®) The phototoxic (UV-A and UV-B light-induced centration. à Pale yellow to brown color clear to toxicity) preventive effects of LactoSporin® FOCUS HINTS (picture : proliferation of dermal papilla hazy liquid with characteristic odor was studied using mouse fibroblast cell line cells with LactoSporin®) à Completely soluble in water (Balb/C 3T3). à It acts against other pathological LactoSporin® showed notable protection organisms from UV-A as well as UV-B-induced cell death à It can be a potent next-generation Hair growth potential of LactoSporin® (protection against UV radiation-induced tox- probiotic in skin care application. % Increase in Dermal Papilla Cell Proliferation (conc. v/v) icity). Thus, eliminating the usage of live 25 microorganisms in various biological Anti-inflammatory effect : LactoSporin® test- 20 streams ed at various concentrations showed a dose- à Patents EP : “Method of produc- dependent anti-inflammation activity, so 15

ing partially purified extracellular potentiality of LactoSporin® against the skin 10 metabolite products from Bacillus inflammation induced by pro-inflammatory coagulans and biological applications environmental insults (inhibition of Lipopoly- 5 thereof” saccharide induced secretion, TNF-α on hu- 0 man cell line THP-1. 0.5 % 0.25 % 0.125 %

8 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 FOCUS Olepent® Skin Firming and repairing peptide

Olepent™ is a innovative and unique patented Firming Peptide pentapeptide complexed with oleanolic acid, • Stimulated the skin’s natural production of col- lagen with dual mechanism • Restores the structure of the skin and smoothens wrinkles eptides are the newest ingredient in 80% Elastase Inhibtion • Minimizes the effect of degrading enzymes anti-ageing skin care that are highly Increase elasticity effective actives and are utilized in the most premium skin care products. P ® 80% Elastase Inhibition Olepent has a dual mechanism both as firm- Repairing Peptide Increase elasticity ing and repairing peptide. Provides anti-inflammatory support • Skin Care Helps in repairing skin barrier dysfunction ncrease • ® 90% TGF-β I • Repairs skin injury caused by wound or photo- The triterpenoid group in Olepent acts by Rebuilds collagen damage preventing oxidation and excess activity of serine proteases like elastase and collagenase that result in the wrinkling of skin. 86% Collagenase Inhibition Repairs wrinkles Olepent® has a significantly better anti-ageing INCI Name : Oleanoyl sh-Pentapeptide-4 potential like elastase inhibition, collagenase inhibition, Transforming Growth Factor beta 40% FGF Increase Description : Off-white powder, slighkly Repairs skin/reduces scarring hygroscopic (TGF-β) increase, Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF) increase and antioxidant activity which (HPLC) Purity Oleanyl Pentapeptide ≥90% w/w makes it a promising ingredient in the seg- 30% Antioxidant Potential Shelf-life : 2 years ment of anti-ageing. More luminous complex to skin

% Protection from UV Exposure UV-A UV-B ® Lactosporin® v/v LactoSporin 60% 50%

40% ( . . . c o n t i n u e d ) 30%

20%

10%

Antimicrobial activity Oral Hygiene 0% 0.50 % 0,25 % 0,125 % According to Riazi et al., 2012, LactoSporin® The surface of the tooth is covered by a bio- might exert antimicrobial action by targeting film of microorganism, especially bacteria. the plasma membrane of sensitive microbial Tooth decay or dental caries results from cells and forming transient pores followed the acids secreted by certain bacteria. Strep- by leakage of intracellular contents and dis- tococcus mutans are the common type of Broad-spectrum antimicrobial efficacy MIC of Lactosporin® (%, v/v) sipation of pH gradient component of proton acid-producing oral pathogen that is present 4,5% motive force (PMF). The PMF is important for mainly in the mouth, pharynx and intestine. It 4,0% 3,5% physiological processes such as ATP genera- decays the tooth by secreting glucose poly- 3,0% tion, ion transport as well as motility, thus af- saccharides known as glucans (Forssten et al., 2,5% 2,0% fecting the sustenance of the organism. 2010). 1,5% 1,0% Results : LactoSporin® was found to be highly LactoSporin® was evaluated for the effect of 0,5% active against the important skin pathogens oral hygiene by assessing its impact on the 0,0% such as Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus growth and drop in pH level of S. mutans. epidermis, acne-causing bacterium – Propi- A significant reduction (for about 12 hours) in onibacterium acne, as well as against an op- the growth, rate of pH drop (prevention from portunistic pathogen – Pseudomonas aeurgi- detrimental acidic environment) and glucan nosa. production was observed in S. mutans within It exhibits a broad spectrum antimicrobial ac- 5 minutes of the LactoSporin® treatment. Anti-aging effects of LactoSporin® tivity against both Gram-positive and Gram- Inhibition, %DPPH scavenging at different conc. negative bacteria. The minimum inhibitory Biofilm inhibitory potential of LactoSporin® 100 concentration (MIC) against various patho- Biofilm, the extracellular matrix on living or 80 genic groups was found to be in the range of non-living surfaces are less susceptible to 60 0.5 to 4.0% v/v. LactoSporin® was effective in antimicrobial agents. Thus, these associations 40 killing the tested harmful bacteria at varied of microbial cells are difficult to target and 20 pH (2-5) and temperature ranges (70 – 90 °C). treat (Donlan 2000). LactoSporin® exhibited a Also, LactoSporin® retained the antimicrobial concentration-dependent biofilm inhibitory 0 Collagenase Glycation DPPH Inflammation efficacy in varied storage conditions (Stable & effect againstS. mutans, S. aureus, P. aerugino- 2 % 1 % 0.5 % 0.25 % 0.125 % Accelerated condition). sa and E. Coli (broth micro-dilution method).

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 9 FOCUS Skin Lightening

wo forms of melanin are produced in Cytokines such as endothelins (also known as the epidermis: phenomelanin, which vasoconstrictive peptides) are also reported The concept of skin lightening is is red to yellow in color, and eumela- to accelerate melanogenesis. not limited to decreasing mela- nin which is dark brown to black. The relativeT proportions of these also influence Quick view of our Main Products nin in skin but also encircles skin color. In addition, individuals differ in the à TetraPure and Sabiwhite (tetrahydrocur- number and size of melanin particles. age spots, Melasma, Chloasma, cuminoids) : anti-tyrosinase activity along Skin pigmentation is influenced by several with High ORAC value, and Inhibition of factors like: Freckles, Post inflammatory hy- Melanogenesis à Hemoglobin in the blood vessels à Glabridine (from 4% to 98% from licorice): perpigmentation Sun induced à Carotenoids in the dermis the well-known whitening agent à Particularly, the dark pigment, melanin in à pTeroWhite®:new studies on pterostil- pigmented blemishes. the epidermis. bene purified from Pterocarpus marsu- pium Production of Melanin à Saberry (β-glucogallin from Amla) : white Melanin biosynthesis (melanogenesis) is water soluble Skin Whitening, MMP-1 In- influenced by genetics, environmental fac- hibitor, UV Protector tors, diet and medication. The production of à OxyResveratrol Artonox: strong and dose pTeroWhite® melanin by specialized cells called melano- dependent inhibition of Tyrosinase en- Two new studies recently published: cytes (in the basal layer of the epidermis in zyme activity and melanogenesis inhibi- • An Open-Label Single-Arm, Monocentric Study As- light skinned people and in the basal as well tory activity sessing the Efficacy and Safety of pTwroWhite® for as horny layer in dark skinned people) occurs à Ellagic Acid (pomegranate), lightening, Skin Brightening and Antiaging Effects: significant through the action of the enzyme tyrosinase. UV protection, also in oral form improvement in under-eye fine lines at all-time The rate-limiting step in melanogenesis is à Fucoxanthine (wakame) : lessened UVB- points and in wrinkles, frown lines, and crow’s feet the conversion of L-tyrosinase to melanin, induced epidermal hypertrophy, VEGF, area at the end of the study. The pterostilbene through the action of tyrosinase. Copper and and MMP-13 expression preparation was able to improve the skin luminosity oxygen act as catalysts. Other enzymes also à Soy extract : lightening action in solar len- with continuous application. control melanin production, particularly in tigenes (hyperpigmentation due to sun) • A second clinical study, a randomized study to the presence of sulfur. These include the fol- determine the Sun Protection Factor of pTeroWhite® lowing: Skin lightening cosmeceuticals demonstrated the effect as a natural SPF ingredient, à Dopachrome oxidoreductase which con- the potent antioxidant effects in various in vitro and The toxicity associated with hydroquinone trols melanogenesis in the absence of ty- cellular test systems, and the safety. use, induced researchers to identify less dan- rosinase. It helps to convert dopachrome gerous botanicals with comparable activity. into 5, 6-dihydroxyindole. The general modes of action include inhibi- à Alpha-glutamyl transpepsidase which tion of the formation of melanosomes, inhibi- helps to maintain the balance in the bio- tion of tyrosinase biosynthesis, and inhibition à Regulation/inhibition of tyrosinase, dopachrome oxi- synthesis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. of melanin biosynthesis and interference of doreductase and dopachrome tautomerase involved in Variation in skin pigmentation is attributed the transfer of melanosomes into the kera- melanogenesis to the levels of melanin produced and the tinocytes. Some agents also have a chemi- à Regulation of cytokine network including endothelin number of melanocytes present. Although cal effect on melanin with an increase in the à Regulation of genes related to melanogenesis light skinned and dark skinned people may degradation of melanosomes in the keratino- à Combinations of the above approaches have the same number of melanocytes pres- cytes. ent, the rate of melanin production is greater Antioxidants such as ascorbic acid and others in darker skin tones. Additionally, the mela- help to decompose preformed melanin. Hy- Skin Brightening nin present in the epidermal layers of darker perpigmentation due to UVA and UVB dam- When Skin Needs Brightening skins is resistant to enzymatic degradation. age may also be addressed by preventive Optical properties modulate the appearance of skin. Skin Increased production of melanin on one side measures using antioxidant compounds with needs brightening when: of the skin and dramatically reduced decom- sunscreen effect and free radical scavenging à Too transparent or too highly pigmented skin appears position of melanin on the other side results action. Research efforts are generally aimed spotted and unhealthy. in darker skin tones, in light skinned people. at achieving one or more of the following ef- à When skin is dull. Dull skin is dehydrated skin which is to fects: Melanin granules synthesized in the melano- transparent or hyper pigmented. cytes are then transferred from the cytoplasm à Early aged skin is also dull and rough due to loss of of the melanocytes to the basal cytoplasm of Artonox™ surface integrity. the keratinocytes. They thus form a protec- tive covering in the inner layers of the epider- With Tetrapure® and Glabridin 98%, What Skin Brightening Cosmeceuticals do FOCUS HINTS mis, absorbing UV rays and inhibiting their Artonox™ is a new comer in our range The effects of skin brighteners are: penetration. for skin brightening. Obtained from à Radiant complexion. the dried wood of Artocarpus lakoo- à Beautiful skin glow. Controlling Melanin Synthesis cha, it provides 95% of Oxyresveratrol, à Even skin tone, without freckles, age spots or other an analog of Resveratrol (a stilbenol types of discoloration. Various types of inflammatory mediators 2’,3,4’,5-tetrahydroxystilbene). Oxyresve- à Rejuvenated, nourished and smooth skin such as leukotrienes and prostaglandins, ratrol exhibits bout 150 fold more potent cytokines and growth factors may influence skin lightening inhibitory effect than Other related products melanin synthesis by affecting the prolif- Resveratrol (3,4’,5-trihydroxystilbene), Tyrosinase inhibitors such as Arbutin (from the leaves of the eration and functioning of melanocytes. This and 32 more than Kojic. explains why inflammatory diseases often in- common bearberry), Arctophylos urva ursi and other plants, duce hypopigmentation or hyperpigmenta- Artonox™ is dedicated for: Glabridin from licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra roots), ascorbic tion. The enzyme, protein kinase C that phos- à Skin lightening formulations acid and its derivatives, Kojic acid (a bacterial carbohydrate phorylates proteins may also influence the à Antioxidant metabolite) are better tolerated than hydroquinone. Aloesin growth and differentiation of melanocytes. à Anti-aging formulations from Aloe is reported to be a non-competitive inhibitor of

10 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 FOCUS Rich AKBBA Boswellin and Psoriasis

traditional A new study on one of the botanicals Management of psoriasis most famous and powerful to help cre- A study on Sabinsa’s Boswellia cream for ate natural anti-inflammatory. treatment of psoriasis, Clinical Evaluation of solutions AKBBA in the management of psoriasis, was for health. Boswellic acids - and published in Clinical Dermatology 2014; 2 (1): 17--‐24. US clinical trials, intended to have AK- especially AKBBA - have “Our understanding of this ingredient, origi- BBA eventually approved as a drug by FDA for nating from one of the earliest compounds treatment of psoriasis, will begin in the near been found to inhibit released by Sabinsa, called Boswellin®, is future. This will be a significant step for a nu- growing, and we want the world to know the 5-lipoxygenase by one of two traceutical company in USA. positive research and the impact it has on ways on 5-LO as well as (HLE) The cream of Boswellia serrata Roxb extract human health,” said Sabinsa founder Dr. Mu- standardized for 5% of 95% 3‐O‐Acetyl-11‐ hammed Majeed. “Such indications prevalent and psoriasis Keto Beta Boswellic Acid (AKBBA) was studied in Ayurvedic texts are now being proven by in an open label, multi centered phase III clini- modern research, in terms of correctly stan- cal trial, evaluating 200 psoriatic patients with dardizing, isolating the unique compound(s) Mean scores of arthritic symptoms as evaluated in an application of AKBBA cream three times daily and ultimately formulating safe and effective open field study of boswellic acids-containing topical for a period of 12 weeks. The researchers ob- products.” The cream product is sold and mar- analgesic Chilisin® (TM of Sabinsa Corp). In addition, a served significant changes in LTB4 (p<0.001) keted as a drug in India. Sabinsa holds several four week study as well as a three month toxicity study & TNF alpha (p<0.01) values from the base- patents for this and other uses of Boswellia. line along with significant changes (p<0.05) showed that administration of boswellic acids at 5 to 10 Clinical evaluation of AKBBA in the management of psoriasis, times the ED50 value did not cause side effects. in VEGF & PGE2. Reduction in ‘modified’ PASI Muhammed M., Nagabhushanam K., Sankaran N., Sood R., score from the baseline visit was in consensus Karri S.K. Inhibition of Leukotriene with the global evaluations by physician and patients. Synthesis The evidence shows su- The presence of a specific AKBBA-binding site on 5-LO perior anti-inflammatory that is distinct from the arachidonate substrate-bind- responses rates, demon- ing site was determined using photo affinity labeling. strating that this non‐toxic Among the several compounds classified as leukotriene treatment is beneficial for synthesis inhibitors, nonredox inhibitors, such as bo- those suffering from this swellic acids, are preferred. Unlike redox type inhibitors condition. they do not interact with other biological redox systems, Although far from the scope lessening the likelihood of side-effects like methaemo- of a dietary supplement, the globin formation. AKBBA has been identified as the only exploratory process that has leukotriene synthesis inhibitor so far that inhibits 5-LO gone into such a traditional activity by noncompetitive, nonredox mechanisms (3- ingredient showcases Sa- 5% of topical formulation as cream, lotion or gel) binsa’s passion for applying modern day technology to

tyrosinase, affecting (...)(...) the action of tyrosinase oxidation chain reaction from tyrosine/DOPA to gallate. complex in the substratum and reducing the con- melanin. Our products are usually compared to Paper mulberry extract (from the root bark of version of DOPA into melanin. Arbutin and to Kojic acid. Broussonetia kazinoki x B. papyrifera ) also con- Arbutin and Kojic acid inhibit tyrosinase directly, Green tea is also reported to be a competitive ty- tains active depigmenting agents, which were while L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives are be- rosinase inhibitor through the gallocatechin moi- shown to be more efficacious than hydroquinone lieved to act as reducing agents on intermediates ety in the major catechin constituents epicatechin (IC 50 of 2.5 mg/ml against 5.5 mg/ml for hydro- in melanin biosynthesis at various points in the gallate, epigallocatechin gallate and gallocatechin quinone).

Comparative table sheet Orac DPPH Tyrosinase Melanin Elastase Collagenase UV Protection Artonox 19 735 2,700 0,049 12,000 120,000 92,000 n.c. Glabridine 40% 3 256 49,000 0,250 3,000 n.c. n.c. n.c. Pterowhite 12 508 4,900 6,900 0,550 n.c. n.c. 30 Resveratrol 25 223 3,010 5,500 2,500 n.c. n.c. 31 Saberry 2 682 n.c. 321,000 14,000 n.c. n.c. 15 [UVA] 42 [UVB] Sabiwhite 10 786 n.c. 1,770 3,000 n.c. n.c. n.c. Tetrapure 10 212 1,300 1,800 3,200 n.c. n.c. n.c. Kojic Acid - 500,000 7,000 100,000 n.c. n.c. n.c. Vitamin C 3 400 1,930 9,330 25,000 n.c. n.c. n.c. Arbutin - 500,000 193,600 100,000 n.c. n.c. n.c. à ORAC Value : μmol Trolox equivalents/g (Higher is greater) à Melanin Inhibition: IC50μg/ml (lower is greater) à DPPH Inhibition: IC50μg/ml (lower is greater) à Elastase Inhibition: IC50μg/ml (lower is greater) à Tyrosinase Inhibition: IC50μg/ml à Collagenase Inhibition: IC50μg/ml (lower is greater) (lower is greater) à UV Protection: IC50μg/ml (lower is greater)

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 11 FOCUS Anti-Acne

cne is a common skin disorder At concentrations above 0.4%, it effectively which is a visible end result of hor- inhibits the P. acne bacteria and the activity A unique formulation to fight monal, bacterial and inflammatory is well comparable to 1% Clindamycin gel. the various form of acne and disturbances that take place at the Alevel of the oil pore (pilosebaceous follicle). It Anti-microbial Coleus oil work on the sebum control is characterized by presence of open com- Coleus oil is an oil obtained from the fresh edones (black heads) and closed comedones roots of Coleus forskohlii. It is standardized (microcysts). to 15% Bornyl acetate and 15% Decanal. The oil having good anti-microbial activity is a Some of the common potent anti-acne ingredient. Coleus oil was causes of acne found to effectively inhibit the growth of à Growth and multiplication of acne caus- skin pathogens such as: Vitex oil is extracted from the berries of à Propionibacterium acnes (associated with ing bacterium Propionibacterium acnes. Vitex agnuscastus and is standardized for à Higher levels of the hormone Dihydrotes- acne) : Inhibition of more than 25% at tosterone by the activity of the enzyme 1.25µg/ml (versus 15% for tea tree oil), 0.40% of Artemetin 5-alpha reductase. and still 15% at 0,5 mg/ml à Increase in androgens during puberty and adolescence which in turn, triggers an en- Coleus oil is obtained from the fresh roots largement of the sebaceous glands. of Coleus forskohlii standardized to 15% Prevention of acne Bornyl acetate and 15% Decanal. Acne may be prevented by: à Reducing sebum production (secreted by sebaceous glands) Policosanol is a mixture of fatty alcohols à Reducing bacteria (P. acne) on the skin derived from waxy extract of sugarcane, à Reducing the inflammation à Exfoliation-peeling of the skin which un- containing a minimum of 55 – 60% Octa- clogs pores à Staphylococcus aureus (a bacterial strain cosanol found in infected wounds and skin erup- Anti-microbial Vitex tions including acne) : Inhibition by 40% Vitex oil is extracted from the berries of Vitex at 30µg/ml, so about 3x more than tea Formulations may include as well the agnuscastus and is standardized for 0.40% of tree oil, and still 30% at 7,5 mg/ml when Cosmoperine - our Dermal Penetration En- Artemetin. It is made up of long chain fatty tea tree oil is then not active anymore à hancer for a better efficacy, or Monolaurin alcohols and long chain fatty acids like lauric, Staphylococcus epidermidis (a bacterial myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic and strain occurring in a variety of opportu- , potent against P. acne linolenic acids. The oil has potential anti-mi- nistic bacterial skin infections): inhibition crobial activity. Vitex oil inhibits the growth of by ca. 30% at 30µg/ml, so double than tea Propionibacterium acnes (anaerobic bacteria), tree oil, and still 15% at 7,5 mg/ml when there’s no more activity from tea tree oil. E. coli (from 0.1%) and S. aureus (aerobic bac- useful in managing inflammatory skin conditions, par- à Candida albicans : Inhibition by 40% at teria, from 0.5%). ticularly acne. 30µg/ml and ca. 20% at 15µg/ml, so al- ways more than Tea Tree Oil, without the In a 2 week study on 16 human subjects between 8 and unpleasant odor. 25 yrs of age, 2% and 5% Policosanol colloidal solutions were found to be Sebum control Policosanol safe for local application. Topical ap- plications of the Policosanol colloidal Policosanol is a mixture of fatty alcohols de- solutions were found to decrease the rived from waxy extract of sugarcane. It con- sebum secretion in a concentration tains a minimum of 55 – 60% Octacosanol. dependent manner. (Reduction from Policosanol was found to have anti-microbial 11.6% to 27.6%). Policosanol effec- and sebum control effects that are potentially tively compared with Clindamycin. FOCUS HINTS

Cosmoperine Tetrahydropiperine (THP) Cosmoperine as enhancers of nutrient and drug bioavailability Cosmoperine is a 95% tetrahydropiperine, pre- Cosmoperine has been subject to various studies pared from pepper by a patented proprietary pro- : for instance, it has been found to enhance the thetic pyrethroid, Albendazole, Betamethasone cess. It may operate by increasing the membrane Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (THC) due to increase Dipropionate, etc... have been also performed fluidity and affinity of drug / nutrient to the cell penetration by min. 30% of the active across the with same prrofs of efficacy (absorbed faster rate membrane, for a broad range of delivery through barrier. Even at the highest dilution of 0.0001%. and more completely) the skin. Other actives such as green tea polyphenols, syn- Recommended use : 0.01% to 0.1%

12 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 FOCUS Cococin - Nourishment Factor®

oconut water is often described as Nutritionally versatile Cococin™, The Nourishment a «natural isotonic sports drink», Factor¨ captures the goodness providing higher amounts of elec- It is important to differentiate between co- trolytes such as potassium and conut milk and coconut water. The ratio of of green coconut water in a Cmagnesium than conventional sports drinks. RNA-phosphorus to DNA- phosphorus is Coconut water solids also have a prebiotic significantly lower in the liquid endosperm convenient powder form. role, and beneficially influence the balance of of mature coconuts as compared to that of Coconut water is the nutrient- microflora in the gastrointestinal tract. When green coconuts. topically applied, coconut water solids nour- RNA plays an important role in amino acid rich liquid endosperm of ish the skin and hair, supporting healthy cell transport and respiratory metabolism in liv- growth. ing cells. Coconut water used to make Coco- coconut abounding in Cococin®, The Nourishment Factor® cap- cin is obtained from green coconuts at the proteins, amino acids, sugars, tures the goodness of coconut water in a optimal stage of maturity, to ensure a high convenient, free flowing, and powder form. content of RNA and growth factors, including vitamins, minerals and Recently affirmed GRAS for use in foods and shikimic acid, quinic acid and indole-3-acetic clinically validated for its topical benefits, acid, along with essential vitamins, amino growth hormones that Cococin finds multifunctional applications in acids, and minerals.At the completion of cosmetic, personal care and food and bever- growth, the solid endosperm and the last of support healthy cell growth age compositions. the coconut water provide nourishment for the forming embryo and seedling. & hydration. Coconut water Produced under a patented lyophilization process, the amorphous nature of the solid Thus, coconut water serves the role as a res- solids are freeze-dried using a produced by this process protects the pro- ervoir of nutrients to support tissue growth special process that preserves tein components and environment sensitive (Tulecke, et. al; 1961). actives during subsequent pulverization and Coconut water has been used in the tropics as the activity of nutrients... storage. During storage, the material trans- a nutritive and rehydrating agent to restore forms to the more stable, less hygroscopic, electrolyte balance in cases of diarrhea (Ad- crystalline state. ams, et al.; 1992). A published research report Cococin blends seamlessly with cosmetic mentions that coconut water can be used as compositions, and easily disperses in water, a short term intravenous (IV) fluid (Campbell- Moisturizer making it a compact and versatile nutrient Falck et al.; 2000). Other reported applica- pool for use in topical formulations, as well as tions include use in total parenteral nutrition Promotes healthy cell / hair growth in functional foods & beverages that nurture (TPN) (Petroianu, et al.; 2004), and sports bev- Supports blood circulation from the inside out. erages (FAO, 1998)0

Cosmetics and Between starting to grow and falling out years lat- nutricosmetics er, each hair passes through three distinct stages : Anagen (the growing phase), Catagen (the inter- Cococin is The Nourishment Factor® that provides mediate phase), Telogen (the shedding phase). a valuable nutrient pool for enhancing food and Cococin™ has been evaluated for its efficacy as a beverage, as well as cosmetic product formula- hair growth promoter, in comparison with Min- tions. Cococin can be safely used in oral care as oxidil as standard : Histological evaluation of the well as lip care compositions. skin biopsies showed that the hair follicles were à Helps restore the skin health in aged and dam- transformed from Telogen to Anagen phase of aged skin hair growth in the animals... showing a response à Augments new cell growth while promoting to the topical application of formulations contain- Cell Proliferation enhancement healthy tissues ing Cococin™ with hair growth promoting activity. in Swiss 3T3 fibroblast cell line à Helps in wound healing à Helps in skin hydration Animals treated with reference standard viz 2% minoxidil showed telogen to anagen transition in more than 70% animals. The maximal induction of Cell Proliferation Anagen was observed with 2% Cococin™ cream enhancement ,which equaled that of the reference standard (2% Cococin was used in the growth medium for fi- minoxidil) in the experimental conditions of this broblast cell lines in an in vitro study (in Swiss 3T3 study (see picture). fibroblast cell line). Cell proliferation was signifi- cantly enhanced in cells treated with Cococin con- Reducing the appearance taining nutrient medium as compared to controls of skin aging receiving standard nutrient medium. Hair growth Histopathological Twenty-two females in good health of ages 20-35 (transversal) sections of animals Hair Growth years old were subjects in a double blind placebo controlled clinical study (Research Report Sami Each individual hair is formed inside a hair bulb Labs Ltd., 2005). A cream containing 1% coconut deep in a hair follicle. The follicle is a tiny but pow- water solids (Cococin INCI: Cocos nucifera (coco- erful factory, which throughout many people’s nut) fruit juice was applied onto the left arm of lifetime hardly ever stops working. From a baby’s each subject, and the cream base was applied birth for many decades, as much as a century in onto the corresponding area of the right arm, to some people, the follicle continues to produce serve as control. 200 mg of the cream and cream Hair growth Histopathological hairs. Finally the hair spontaneously falls out. The base was applied daily for eight weeks, to the (longitudanal) sections of animals follicle rests for a little while, and then starts to marked areas on the left arm and right arm respec- produce yet another new hair. tively (see figure)

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 13 FOCUS Rhodiola: Stress Support and Wrinkles

Rhodiola rosea is also known hile Rhodiola as a genus may – related illness. Rhodiola rosea has been historically as “Golden Root” have originated in the moun- demonstrated to be effective in different -im tainous regions of Southwest portant applications: from the “Golden Mountains” China and the Himalayas, bota- Wnists have established that Rhodiola rosea (Mongolian word ‘Altan’) Stress naturally display a circumpolar distribution in mountainous regions in the higher latitudes The effects of the stress on skin have been and elevations of the Northern Hemisphere. extensively proved. Stress is a well-known In central and Northern Asia, the genus is triggering factor in the appearance or exac- distributed from the Altai Mountains across erbation of psoriasis, alopecia areata, atopic Mongolia into many parts of Siberia. dermatitis, acne, and other skin disorders. Panconesi et al. described the psychophysiol- Rhodiola rosea used for the production of ogy of stress in dermatology and found that RhodioLife® is wildcraft collected from this the skin and central nervous system are re- part, under the Russian Government License. lated embryologically. The parasympathetic Altai Mountains represents a pristine area nervous system is critical to regulating our free from contamination in of the most well stress response. Rhodiola rosea enhances preserved and remote natural environments. parasympathetic function and fortifies the Nektium is involved from the early beginning stress response system, improving our ability in the collection practices, with SOPs describ- to overcome stress and reducing our risk of ing the stage of the plant growth, best time of stress-related health problems. collection and ecologically non-destructive systems. kling. Genetics play the largest role in determining how Anti-aging properties fast skin will wrinkle with the fairer skin having the high- Application of Rhodiola rosea extract as a use- est risk of damage, according to the experts at Skin- Active Ingredients ful method of retarding the signs of photoag- CarePhysicians.com. Applying Rhodiola rosea extract to ing and protecting the skin from UV damage. delicate areas of the skin may help prevent premature Activities related to Rhodiola rosea have been Photoaging can include signs of aging such wrinkling as the herb increases two types of molecular traditionally attributed to the presence of us skin atrophy and means the thinning and/ components needed by the body to create elastin. Ac- four principal active ingredients: salidroside, or general degradation of the dermis caused cording to the cosmetic company, Origins, one of their rosin, rosavin and rosarin (Sokolov, 1985; Fur- by free radicals damage which is often char- skin care products containing Rhodiola showed signifi- manowa, 1998). acterized by an alteration and degradation of cant reductions in line-wrinkles after an 8 week clinical The root of R. rosea shows six distinct groups collagen and/or elastin due to extrinsic fac- test. of chemical compounds. The Phenylalkanoids tors such as photodamage caused by expo- are the main contributors, incl. : sure to UV radiation. Rhodiola rosea extract Supports Collagen Production can help in the prevention or retarding skin • Phenylpropanoid : Rosavins are products The dermis is the second of three layers of skin, sitting aging, including wrinkles lines appearance, of the phenylpropanoid metabolism. Ro- just below the epidermis. The dermis consists of collec- skin atrophy and thinning appearance reduc- savins (ie. rosavin, rosin and rosarin) are tive tissues, including elastin and collagen, which sup- tion. specific to the root from Rhodiola rosaea. port the skin and provide its flexibility. When in good The rosavins are the constituents current- Those properties of Rhodiola rosea extract supply, elastin and collagen prevent sagging and wrin- ly most often selected as the marker com- are associated with: kling. Imagine the skin as a trampoline, which has to pounds for standardization of extracts, à DNA Repair rebound after every stretch and strain. Rhodiola rosea although they are not necessarily the only à Collagen synthesis elevates the number of hydroxyproline and hexosamine pharmacologically active ingredients for à Oxiden scavenger molecules, which are necessary for the body to make its medicinal properties. à UV Radiation absorption collagen. • Principal phenylethanoids consist of gly- Figure on the right shows dose-dependent cosides and salidroside has been reported sunburn cell formation in living skin equiva- Antioxidant and Stress Support as the most active tyrosol glycoside, be- lents cells. Pretreatment with Rhodiola rosea ing associated, together with rosavins, to significantly reduces the formation of sun- Rhodiola rosea can be used to treat the body holistically the anti-depressive and anxiolytic effects burn cells via UVB irradiation. Rhodiola rosea as it contains neuro-supportive ingredients and anti- (Maslowa, 1994; Tolonen, 2003). Other pre-treatment significantly reduces UVB in- oxidants, which assist the body in coping with stress. phenylethanoids have also been isolated duced sunburn cell formation in LSE. Looking Consider the effects of stress and the role it plays in the but with today limited scientific litera- at the UV-Vis spectrum of Rosavins (Rosarin, skin’s vibrancy. According to a February 17, 2010 article ture concerning the bioactivity (Jiménez Rosavin, Rosin), the absortion spectrum has a on the Fox News health blog, Rhodiola rosea contains 1994). maximum in same wavelength than UV radia- pharmacological active compounds called rosavins, tions. which are able to assist the body systems with oxygen deprivation, stress and immune support -- all important Supplementing with Rhodiola rosea is a FOCUS HINTS Wrinkles considerations for skin management. whole-body approach to maintaining health and wellness. While most supplements ad- Enhances Skin Barriers : first, preventing your dress specific conditions, Rhodiola rosea acts skin from wrinkling is protecting it from sun on many biological systems and can coun- damage, which is the chief culprit in pre-ma- teract one of the primary causes of illness – ture aging of the skin. One study published chronic stress, asthenia and premature aging. in the June 2008 issue of the «Journal of Cos- In today’s frenetic society, a one-size-fits-all metic Dermatology» showed that extracts of supplement regimen with herbs and vita- Rhodiola rosea improved the skin’s defensive mins is ineffective. Each person is physiologi- barrier functions against the stress of UV rays. cally unique and requires a specific protocol Subjects of this study were classified as hav- for health. Supplementing with Rhodiola ing sensitive skin. rosea is the foundation for an individualized Supports Elastin Production : Elastin is the supplement protocol because of its ability to rubber band effect in the skin that enables heighten the body’s innate ability fight stress it to bounce back instead of sagging or wrin-

14 - BECARRE Natural - October 2020 FOCUS Forslean Coleus

orslean® is Sabinsa’s new proprietary underside of the dermis by fibrous connec- Forslean® is manufactured by composition extract of Coleus forskohlii tive tissue. As fat cells enlarge, the fibers are root, standardized for Forskolin. Fors- stretched and pull down on the underlying a proprietary process and is a lean® has shown promising results in skin. This causes the indentation or dimpling standardized extract from the Fthree areas; enhancing lean body mass, pro- of the skin called cellulite. moting fat loss and promoting weight loss. It has been demonstrated that adipose tis- roots of the Coleus forskohlii In September of 1998 Sabinsa was granted a sue metabolism varies from one region of plant, the only known plant use patent for this application of Forskolin in the body to another, for example, in severely its Forslean® composition. obese women losing weight after the jeju- source of forskohlin. Fors- noileal bypass surgery, fat was seen to be Mechanism of Action absorbed more slowly in the thigh region Lean® is a registered trade- than the abdominal region10. These differ- The mechanism of action on how Forslean® ences lead to the hypothesis that localized mark of Sabinsa Corporation. works is well defined : «Forskohlin, the ac- application of agents that trigger lipolysis or tive compound in Forslean®, is recognized fat breakdown could help in cases of fat accu- as an adenylate cyclase activator. Adenylate mulation at specific subcutaneous sites. cyclase is the enzyme involved in the pro- Forskolin accelerates lipolysis through the duction of cyclic adenosine monophosphate activation of hormone-sensitive lipase — (cAMP), a significant biochemical agent in adrenoreceptors playing important roles in metabolic processes. The role of cyclic AMP is the regulation of lipolysis (adrenoreceptors indispensable to many body functions. It in- are neurons that are activated by adrenaline duces a chain reaction of biochemical events (epinephrine) or similar substance). Based on that trigger metabolic processes and diet in- clinical studies reported in literature, Coleus duced thermogenesis, thereby providing the forskohlii extract 95% is potentially useful in means to maintain healthy body composition dislodging localized fat deposits immediately and lean body mass levels. under the skin, when applied topically. Cosmeceutical applications As an alternative to tanning by exposure to the sun that can cause skin cancer, topical ap- Topical fat reduction in specific areas plication of forskolin induces tanning and is of the body is a common concern for women. safer to use. Ronsard popularized the term “cellulite” to describe the dimpling and “orange peel” ex- ternal appearance of the thighs, the cause of Dosage Form Sustainability which was attributed to the aging process Sabinsa is growing Coleus in part of its 44 000 acres, and by later researchers. The structure of sub- The recommended levels of use as a skin do the extraction in its own plant selection fully dedi- cutaneous adipose tissue accounts for the conditioning agent : 0.1 to 0.5% of a topical cated to the production of Coleus extracts, to provide development of the “orange peel” appear- formulation, such as an ointment, cream or you the best quality and the best sustainability. ance. Groups of fat cells are attached to the lotion.

etraPure® is standardized for a minimum of 99% of Tetrahydrocurcumin (INCI Name: Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) : research re- veals that Tetrahydrocurcumin (THC) is one Anti-fungal remedy for Skin, Hair & Nails ofT the major metabolites of Curcumin, reported to exhibit many of the same physiological and phar- macological actions as Curcumin, in some systems, Disease Causative Organism Incidence better. Malassezia furfur Pityrisasis versicolor Fungal infection of the skin is the 4th most common Seborrhoeic dermatitis Checking the activity against MF (Agar Malassezia furfur Common skin disease in 2014 Effecting more than 1.2 billion including Dandruff and Dilution Method - Sabourauds Dex- people around the world. A mycosis is a fungal in- Follicular pityriasis» trose Agar with an overlay of coconut fection of animals, including humans. Mycosis are Tinea nigra Exophiala werneckii Rare oil), it is observed that TetraPure® en- common, and a variety of environmental and physi- White piedra Trichosporon beigelii Common hanced the activity at all tested con- ological conditions can contribute to the develop- Black piedra Piedraia hortae Rare centration. ment of fungal diseases. «Dermatophytosis Dermatophytes Human mycoses may be broadly classified as : Candida Species Ringworm of the scalp, (Microsporum, Trichophy- Common à Superficial, cutaneous and subcutaneous It is observed that TetraPure® at 0.15%, glabrous, skin and nails.» ton, Epidermophyton) à Systemic reduces the colony counts of Can- Candidiasis of skin, mucous membranes Candida albicans Common dida albicans NCIM3471 (Yeast) from and nails Dermatophytes 14.6 105 to less than 100 cfu/ml with Non-dermatophyte an overall percentage reduction of It is observed that TetraPure® inhibits the growth of moulds dermatophytes Trichophyton rubrum, Microsporum 99.99% over a test interval time of 28 Dermatomycosis Hendersonula toruloidea , Rare gypseum and Epidermophyton flocossum at all test- days. Scytalidium hyalium, ed concentration (from 0.15%, Antifungal Efficacy Anti-fungal formulation : 0.15%w/w Scopulariopsis brevicaulis – Agar Dilution Method). Skin lightening form: 0.1 - 0.5%w/w Tetrapure® inhibits superficial and cutaneous mycosis

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 - 15 ektium (ex-PoliNat / Polifenoles Naturales) is the Spanish company dedicated to the identification, development and production of high quality active ingredients Nderived from plants, for use in the health-food and cosmetics industries. Nektium (www.nektium.com) is located at Las Palmas, Canary Island, and focuses its ef- forts on the development and industrial production of high quality standardized products derived from plants, which are key ingredients in health food products. The company pro- duces standardized extracts and novel ingredients and products, contributing to the prevention of diseases and improvement of quality of life through nutrition. Manufacturing high quality extract starts with the selection of qualified raw material suppliers. Rhodiola roots - for instance - are strictly harvested from the Altai region of Siberia as a result of several years of a collaborative ef- forts. Purity and sustainability are the two main selection criteria. Nektium stands for environmental preservation, sustainability and corporate responsibility. Production activities and facilities are ISO, HACCP & GMP certified. Or- ganic raw material may be available. In 2018, Nektium has inaugurated the new Nektium facility, 10 000 m2 devoted to the new product development and production. www.nektium.com

abinsa manufactures and markets phytonutrients and standardized herbal extracts, specialty & fine chemi- Scals, and organic intermediates used in the nutritional, cosmetics, pharmaceutical, intermediary chemicals and food ynadiet is the Food Supplement Association and sup- industries. ports the interests of the French food supplements industry at all levels of the legislative and regulatory Founded in 1988 by Dr. Muhammed Majeed, Ph.D., Sabinsa is S a company dedicated to the principles of tradition, innovation process. SYNADIET is a member of relevant organizations : EHPM (European Federation), IADSA (International Federation) and research. Sabinsa’s efforts have begun to earn the com- and EBF (European Botanical Forum). pany vast recognition, in addition to growing sales. Sabinsa SYNADIET represents more than 250 members which most of confirms everyday its position of leader on botanical extract, them export worldwide. and at the origin of so many objectivized products (BioPerine from Black Pepper, Garcinia Cambodgia, Coleus Forslean, etc...). www.synadiet.org Sabinsa is a group which includes all the needed activities to provide high quality botanical extracts - and not only ayurvedic plants. Sabinsa has a research and development facility in India and near Princeton, NJ and six manufacturing facilities in and around Bangalore, India, and in Utah. Today, noreal® is a firm created in 2006 which help nutrition and Sabinsa manufactures over 100 such plant-derived products, health manufacturer to be at the cutting edge of innovation besides some synthetic and hemisynthetic products for per- by providing new ingredients, which demonstrated their I fumery. Sabinsa also provides custom manufacturing from lab efficacy. scale to pilot / semi-commercial scale, and process develop- Supported by a meticulous sourcing, exclusive extraction pro- ment. cess, clinical studies of safety and efficacy , Inoreal®’s products are formulated to allow innovation by having the agreement www.sabinsa.com www.sabinsacosmetics.com of international administrations, and are allowed for selling all www.curcuminoids.com www.BioPerine.com across the world. www.boswellin.com www.selenoforce.com www.ursolicacid.com www.lactospore.com www.inoreal.com www.venocin.com www.glabridin.com www.satiereal.com www.seleniumselect.com www.elimreal.com

aboratoires ISOCELL is at the cutting edge of scientific research in the field of aging, and oxidative stress in Lparticular. That’s how they developed GliSODin®, an oral grade of improved SOD. Based in Paris, Founded in 2001, ISOCELL has an international dimension, being present in over 30 countries. ISOCELL also hold several international patents (Europe, US, Japan) in these areas of research and develop- ment. Innovative products have been developed to strengthen the antioxidant and immune systems and protect the body at the cellular level against external stresses and aging. The products of the GliSODin® line are manufactured in accordance Quality partners with Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) www.glisodin.org www.glisodinskin.com www.glisodine.fr

BECARRE Natural - October 2020 FOCUS WHAT IS AN EXTRACT ?

plant extract is a substance or an vent, environmental components, legal enough (when needed). Most common are regulation, effective and selective when ity, volatility (liquid / steam), etc… active with desirable properties uses, registration or notification (reach, Water, Ethanol, Ethyl acetate, CO2, Metha- needed. However, certain steps may re- Filter press : the filter press uses increased that is removed from the tissue organic grades,...), labeling, claims, cer- nol, Aceton, Acetic acid, Hexane… the quire a long time of process. pressure to maximize the rate of filtration of a plant, usually by treating it tification (GMP, ISO), etc… choice of the solvent will impact on the and produce a final filter cake with a low Awith a solvent, to be used for a particular yield of extraction (acquaintance with the Pressing : One of the more usual extraction water content. purpose. Extracts may be used in various targeted actives) in the full respect of the (the morning orange juice), pressing may Membranes, Ultra filtration, Nano filtra- sectors of activities : Food and functional Raw Material request from customers and environmen- be used complementary or prior to other tion : membrane filtration or cross-flow -fil process, for instance to prepare the materi- properties for foodstuffs (antioxidant, tex- It’s important to understand that an ex- tal components (depletion of the ozone tration technology which ranges between turizer, etc…), Processing aids, additives layer, life of the solvent in atmosphere, als, defat it, etc…It causes mechanical per- ultrafiltration (UF) and reverse osmosis tract starts from the raw material: the turbation and gives a liquid product. – chemical replacers, pharmaceutical for plants. The Identification of a good source groundwater pollution, air pollution). (RO). The fundamental principle of Nanofil- therapeutic properties - preventive and/or includes the description of areas and type On a chemical point of view, the best sol- Distillation and hydro-distillation : By di- tration membrane technology is the use of curative – cosmetic for functional proper- of collect, the capacity of collect, the use vent may be chosen after looking at the rect heating or steam, this process is main- pressure to separate soluble ions through ties for beauty and well-being, etc… and not-used area and the impact of our dipolar moment : an electric dipole is a ly used for oils and volatile components. It a semi permeable material. Some sectors of activities clearly define an needs for extraction to guarantee a sus- separation of positive and negative charg- may cause degradation (oxidation, hydro- Liquid / Liquid : Liquid-Liquid Extraction extract. For cosmetic uses, for instance, a tainable source. It’s so important to ana- es, characterized by their dipolar moment, lysis, enzymatic reaction, ….) (LLE) is a method used in the recovery of “cosmetic product” shall mean any sub- lyze the supply chain starting from the a vector quantity (Coulomb. meter or De- a key component from a multi-component Solid / Liquid extraction : It consist in the stance or preparation intended to be collect, including the exporters and the bye), subject to continuous electrostatic stream using an immiscible solvent. The extraction or separation of one active or placed in contact with the various external different middle men, which may cause attraction and repulsion. Each solvent may two steams are contacted and separated. more from solid materials working on the parts of the human body (epidermis, hair variability on the quality besides the natu- be classified based on its dipolar moment The solvent absorbs the key component solubility in a liquid to obtain the soluble system, nails, lips and external genital or- ral variability linked to the weather and (cf. : Ven der Waals Forces). stripping it from the original stream. part and the insoluble part, or fraction- gans) or with the teeth and the mucous the soils. Finally, an overview of the needs à Apolar and low polar solvent, mainly li- ation of an homogenous solution. The membranes of the oral cavity with a view of the local citizens and the risk (govern- pophilic characteristic, with a moment typical Solid / Liquid extractions are : exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, ment, wars, weather, etc…) allows to find from 0 to 1.5 (Hexane, cyclohexane, di- Crystallization Maceration : solid in solvent, room tem- perfuming them, changing their appear- the right partners for the long term, and methoxymethane, Chloroform, Ethylic Crystallization is the (natural or artificial) perature ance and/or correcting body odors and/or minimize the impact on the nature while ether, phenol) process of formation of solid crystals pre- Digestion : solid in solvent, over room tem- protecting them or keeping them in good checking the return to the people. à Polar aprotic solvent, mainly hydrophil- cipitating from a solution. Crystallization perature, below ebullition conditions. ic characteristic is also a chemical solid-liquid separation Decoction (=reflux): solid in solvent, tem- An extract may be common to different Protic solvent (a protic solvent is a solvent technique, in which mass transfer of a sol- perature of ebullition sectors based on its chemical description, that has a hydrogen atom bound to an ute from the liquid solution to a pure solid Preparation infusion (teas) : solid in liquid at tempera- although different sectors mean different oxygen as in a hydroxyl group or a nitro- crystalline phase occurs. The crystallization All equipment may not use the same ma- ture of ebullition, then cooling of the sus- technologies (different forms, solubil- gen as in an amine group). Polar protic sol- process consists of two major events, nu- terials, and the quality of the extraction pension ity, stability), different regulation, different vents are solvents that share ion dissolving cleation (the solute molecules dispersed in may vary depending on the preparation Elution, leaching (Lixiviation) : solvent claim, different problematic. As represent- power with aprotic solvents but have an the solvent start to gather into clusters, on of the raw materials. This goes from the goes through the solid ing manufacturers, we feel very concerned acidic hydrogen. These solvents generally the nanometer scale) and crystal growth cleaning to avoid foreign bodies to the cut Lixiviation : always with cold, fresh and by the request of the end-users and may have high dielectric constants and high (subsequent growth of the nuclei that suc- or grinding. Dried herbals are more com- new solvent adapt its proposal. polarity). ceed in achieving the critical cluster size). mon, with the risk to put out some gaseous Percolation : solvent goes on and through An extract must also respect : Moment of most common solvents : Hex- Nucleation and growth continue to occur components and the benefit that the plant the solid à The quality constraints in terms of irra- ane (0), Ethanol (1.69), Methanol (1.70), simultaneously while the supersaturation diation, allergens, toxicity, adulteration, does not start to hydrolyze or produce non Ethyl acetate (1.78), water (1.85), aceton needed metabolites. Preparation may also exists. activity, stability, sustainable resources, (2.88). Depending on their miscibility, sol- à Single-solvent recrystallization : traceability, etc… consist in thawing (fruits may be frozen for vents may be used together (combined Concentration instance), cooking (to produce aromas for «compound A» and «impurity B» are à The chemical and physical request in solvents, or separation from one solvent to This step consists in the increase of the instance), decoating, destemming, or even dissolved in the smallest amount of terms of description (TLC, physical rec- another solvent). dry matter content to facilitate the further enzymatic reaction before the extraction. hot solvent to fully dissolve the mix- ognition, genotype) as well as heavy steps, using for instance evaporation. ture, thus making a saturated solution. metals, nitrates, solvents, residues such Separation / Purification The solution is then allowed to cool as pesticides or residual solvents, addi- Extraction process => different solubility of compounds tives, foreign bodies, etc… Solvents Different type of separation, based on size, The process must generally be simple, fast, weight, charge, hydrophilic / lipophilic ca- in solution drops => compound drop- à The regulation in terms of assay, sol- A solvent must comply with the local economic, in compliance with the local ping (recrystallizing) from solution. The regulation, be effective and be selective pacity (separation liquid / liquid), solubil- slower the rate of cooling, the bigger linear mobile phase velocity by consider- similar to analytical HPLC but features in- Adulteration & Falsification : get the extract you asked for the crystals formed. The solid crystals ing physical, kinetic, and thermodynamic creased injected mass with possibility to are collected by filtration. properties of a separation “stack” injections automatically. There’s Adulteration means falsification of an à NER / PER : voluntary misunder- à Multi-solvent recrystallization : similar à Column chromatography : the station- technically no product limitation, but usu- extract in terms of origin, assay, extrac- standing between Native extract to the single-solvent but where two (or ary bed is within a tube. The particles ally expensive. tion, actives, or analysis, mostly in order and Plant extract, sometime even more) solvents are used. the proportion of the solid stationary phase or the to improve the price. considering the original plant, with of first and second solvents is critical. support coated with a liquid stationary à Method of analysis : the water. Possible removal by distillation or by an phase may fill the whole inside volume Semisynthesis • UV versus HPLC : except for very à Specie : use of a another bionomial applied vacuum. of the tube (packed column) or be con- Hemisynthesis or Semisynthesis or partial few actives / markers, UV methods origin, of even a plant close to the à Hot filtration-recrystallization : sepa- centrated on or along the inside tube chemical synthesis is a type of chemical always give much higher response original plant (same genus) rate «compound A» from both «impu- wall leaving an open, unrestricted path synthesis that uses compounds isolated than HPLC (when the standard ex- à Part of plant : use of a different part rity B» and some «insoluble matter C». for the mobile phase in the middle part from natural sources (e.g. plant material) ists of course) without being able than the one mentioned or recom- à Seeding : this can be spontaneous or of the tube (open tubular column). Dif- as starting materials. These natural biomol- to find a correlation. This may be mended (for instance, leaves instead can be done by adding a small amount ferences in rates of movement through ecules are usually large and complex mol- versus HPLC, or can be many oth- of roots, even partly) the medium are calculated to different ecules. This is opposed to a total synthesis ers, especially when using internal à Addition of chemicals : addition of retention times of the sample. where large molecules are synthesized method. exogenous origin material, from oth- à Flash column chromatography : the from a stepwise combination of small and • Wave lengths : a different wave er plants or from chemical process. solvent is driven through the column cheap (petrochemical) building blocks. length or the use of a different Spe- They can be added to a colored carri- by applying positive pressure. This It is also possible that the semisynthetic cific Absorption Coefficient er or sometimes to the plant powder allowed most separations to be per- derivative outperforms the original bio- • Standard : the use of a different in order to get at least a positive TLC. formed in less than 20 minutes, with molecule itself with respect to potency, standard for a better response by à Solvents : use of another solvent improved separations stability or safety. Drugs derived from HPCL. than the one mentioned for a more à Thin layer chromatography (TLC) natural sources are usually produced by • Family of the actives : refer to the selective and efficient extraction. is similar to paper chromatography. harvesting the natural source or through global family of the actives instead à Geographical Origin : plants may However, instead of using a stationary semisynthetic methods. of the active alone. offer a different profile depending phase of paper, it involves a stationary • Reduction of the number of mark- on the geographical origin, that you phase of a thin layer of adsorbent like ers, what allows to use addition of may need specifically. It can be also silica gel, alumina, or cellulose on a flat, chemical origin. The more there collected from a non-authorized inert substrate. Compared to paper, it Drying are markers in the description, the zone. has the advantage of faster runs, better Drying means putting out the liquid. Dry- most difficult it is to falsify them. separations, and the choice between ers may be atmospheric (spray dryer, fluid à Plant Extract Ratio : difficult to be of the pure compound (a seed crystal) different adsorbents bed dryer, etc...), or vacuum (belt dryer, sure to get a 4:1 extract when there’s Those are the most common noted ori- à Ion exchange chromatography uses tray dryer, etc…). no marker to control. gins of adulterations. ion exchange mechanism to separate Chromatography analytes. It uses a charged stationary Spray Dryer phase to separate charged compounds By definition, spray drying is the trans- Chromatography is used for separation of including amino acids, peptides, and formation of feed from a fluid state into a mixtures. A mixture dissolved in a “mobile proteins. In conventional methods the dried form by spraying the feed into a hot phase” passes through a stationary phase, stationary phase is an ion exchange drying medium. The process is a one step which separates the analyte. The ultimate process is greatly accelerated due to the Dryer : drying or cooling paste-like, granu- resin that carries charged functional continuous operation. The feed can be ei- goal of chromatography is to separate dif- fact that the loaded material makes con- lar, powdery and pulpous material - etc… groups which interact with oppositely ther a solution, suspension or a paste. The ferent components. The stationary phase tact with the heating panel in the form of charged groups of the compound to spray dried product conforms to powder or adsorbent in column chromatography a thin layer. Vacuum drying does not cause be retained. Ion exchange chroma- consisting of single particles or agglom- is a solid. The most common stationary the emission of any exhaust gases or haz- Before Packing tography is commonly used to purify erates, depending upon the physical and phase for column chromatography is silica ardous smells. Further steps before packing consist in proteins using FPLC (fast protein liquid chemical properties of the feed and the gel, followed by alumina. Also possible are Milling, compacting (to increase the bulk chromatography) dryer design and operation Lyophylization or cryodessication ion exchange chromatography, reversed- density for instance), grinding (to tune the à Chiral chromatography involves the A lyophilizator needs to cool (for freezing phase chromatography (RP), affinity chro- size reduction in a safe way, especially with separation of stereoisomers Vacuum dryer and trapping water), create a vacuum (to matography or expanded bed adsorption At constant volume, when the pressure sublimate water), generate heat and trans- fragile particle or components) and then (EBA). The mobile phase or eluent is either decreases, the boiling temperature de- fer heat energy to the product. homogenization and standardization : a pure solvent or a mixture of different those steps guarantee a optimized reparti- HPLC creases. Evaporation at a lower tempera- Others : Rotary Drum Dryer : Wet material is solvents. It is chosen so that the reten- ture makes possible to get a preserved introduced from one end of the dryer, and tion and the correct and needed content tion factor. The Van Deemter equation in (High Pressure Liquid Chromatography) product. In addition the high rate of heat then stirred evenly by the oar of the inner of actives as mentioned in our CoA (certifi- chromatography relates the variance per and LPLC (low pressure). Preparative high efficiency is said to result in the best dry- barrel - Plate Dryer : kind of high-efficiency cate of analysis). unit length of a separation column to the performance liquid chromatography is ing performance in the world. The drying conductive and continuous drying - Blade