BUYING GUIDE OCTOBER 2012 Terraced vineyards in the Alto Douro region, a UNESCO World heritage site.

2 19 25 PROVENCE 25 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 28 RHÔNE 32 OTHER FRANCE 33 TUSCANY 36 CENTRAL ITALY 42 ARGENTINA 46 MEXICO 47 CALIFORNIA 66 OREGON 70 SPIRITS 75 BEER

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WineMag.com | 1 PORTUGAL PORTUGAL’S VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

ortugal produces an impressive variety of wine styles. From the time, however, two important things have happened. Touriga Nacional and crisp, light-as-a-feather of Vinho Verde in the north to the Tinta Roriz have been identified as the two great for table wines, P rich, generous wines of the southern Alentejo, there is something and the Douro—dominated for centuries by the big Port houses—has be- for every palate. come a cauldron of experimentation by small, estate-based producers, re- In this month’s reviews, three regions stand out: Vinho Verde, Douro inforcing Portugal’s claim to a place at the top table of wine. and Lisboa. In an age when we are craving both light and slightly sweet Lisboa, whose cool-climate wines I covered in depth in the 2011 Best wines, Vinho Verde fits the bill. The most popular style is semisweet, but of Year (December 31) issue, remains Portugal’s best source for value. The there is increasing interest in dry styles, as seen in many of the high scor- reviews this month contain wine after wine marked as Best Buys, many re- ing wines this month. Regional styles are emerging within the large Vin- tailing for under $10. Nowhere else in the world can you find such a cost- ho Verde region: the elegant, rich Alvarinho wines of the far north and the conscious concentration. crisp Loureiro wines of the Lima Valley in the center. Light fruity whites, world-class reds and terrific value—all in one small, Along its southern margin, Vinho Verde butts up against the Douro Val- astonishingly diverse country. ley. The Douro is still on a voyage of discovery, exploring a wide range of As always, feel free to check out all our reviews from around the world, styles, from light whites to complex reds and almost everything in between. at buyingguide.winemag.com. Premium table wines are still fairly new in this region; they’ve only been Cheers! produced here for less than a quarter of a century. In this relatively short —Roger Voss

the wine feel lively and refreshing. Aidil Wines & Li- fruit and lively green acidity. Age this for the next year. ALENTEJANO WHITES quor Inc. —R.V. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. Fitapreta Vinhos 2009 Palpite Reserva abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $15 91 Branco (Alentejano). Opulent and wood- aged, this feels intense and rounded with a ripe Bur- DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Burmester 2011 White (Douro). Delicious- gundian feel. The full weight of the peach and apricot 86 Branco (Alentejano). Perfumed, with a soft, 88 ly fresh and perfumed, this has a white flower fruits are given a powerful push by the toast, spice and smooth texture, this has flavors of tropical fruit, peach aroma, with a clean and crisp line of citrusy acidity. vanilla flavors. Age this for 2–3 years. Winebridge Im- and a hint of lemongrass that make for a rich wine. Dio- There is a good tang of structure, giving the wine a fine, ports. —R.V. nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. food-friendly shape. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $NA

Adega Mayor 2010 Reserva do Comen- Herdade Grande 2011 (Alente- Wines & Winemakers 2011 Andreza Có- 90 dador Branco (Alentejano). The white 86 jano). This is perfumed, soft, warm and ripe, 88 dega do Larinho (Douro). Made from the Reserva from Adega Mayor is wood aged and it feels with smooth peach and mulberry flavors that are offset Códega do Larinho (also called Síria), this is a re- full on the palate. It has nutmeg, citrus and apricot fla- by a citrusy tang. It’s a fine apéritif. Grape Moments. freshingly rich wine. It’s full in the mouth yet it retains vors alongside a rounded texture. Age for another two —R.V. its natural freshness, with a touch of pepper, tangy acid- years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ity and great depth of flavor. The finish bears notes of abv: 13% Price: $NA citrus, pear and green apple. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. Herdade Grande 2011 Colheita Seleccio- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Adega Mayor 2011 Monte Mayor Branco 86 nada (Alentejano). Rich and soft, this has a 88 (Alentejano). Honey and tropical fruit aromas creamy smooth texture, with notes of toast, ripe apple Aveleda 2011 Aveleda Branco (Douro). A open the nose, leading to the palate that is warm and and quince. There is a good touch of acidity to this at- 87 new wine in the Aveleda line-up, this is rich and ripe with pineapple and white peach fruit. The bright tractive, ready to wine. Grape Moments. —R.V. rounded. It’s aromatic, with a full mouthfeel and flavors acidity lends a fresh and crisply fruity finish, with notes abv: 13.5% Price: $12 of pear and green apple lifted by acidity. The finish is of citrus and apple. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. full and fruity. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória abv: 12% Price: $NA 84 Branco (Alentejano). Soft, round and gentle, Herdade das Servas 2011 Branco (Alen- this has a creamed apple flavor. It has a full, ripe charac- Churchill’s 2011 Branco (Douro). Earth 87 tejano). This is a very ripe and wood-aged ter, with just an edge of green herb and spice. Mediter- 87 aromas set the scene for this full-bodied wine. wine, with vanilla flavors pairing with the smooth tex- ranean Specialty Products. —R.V. It is rich and rounded, with the pear and peach flavors ture of the rich pear and apricot fruits. There is a touch abv: 13.5% Price: $NA dominating the soft texture. Made from grapes sourced of pepper from the alcohol that spoils the purity of the from vineyards high above the Douro River, this has fruit. Simões Imports. —R.V. weight, although on the finish there is freshness. Screw- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 DOURO WHITES cap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2011 Lua Cheia abv: 13% Price: $NA Adega Mayor 2011 Caiado (Alentejano). 89 em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This old-vines 86 This is floral and aromatic, bearing soft, ripe yel- white is impressive with a serious yet fruity character. low fruit, attractive acidity and a soft, rounded texture. It is herbaceous, but it also shows concentration, peach A shaft of citric acidity cuts through the palate, making Continued on Page 13

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagranti- Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael no di Montefalco). Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, 95 One of the top, if not the top, red wines from Umbria. The naturally tannic Sa- European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff grantino grape is softened by the careful oak aging that Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and 99 adds layers of chocolate and spice to the grape’s aromas Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. are incredible aromatics on this Cabernet. It’s powerful of black cherry, tobacco and leather. This is bold, pow- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s yet subtle (how can that be?), all about sweet, crushed erful, masculine and velvety on the finish. Pair it with initials appear following the note. When no initials appear summer blackberries and pure cassis liqueur. Elaborate following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two stewed or grilled meat marinated in rosemary and gar- oak, in the form of buttered toast, is perfectly in bal- or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect lic. Age this in a cellar for 10 years or longer. Folio Fine ance, never overshadowing the fruit. The tannins are the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by dry, rich and smooth, defining Napa elegance, grace and abv: 15% Price: $100 Lauren Buzzeo. beauty. World class, dramatic and just about perfect, Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by this gets better and better as it breathes in the glass. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content Drink now–2030. —S.H. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.8% Price: $150 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Merlot (Napa Valley). This is classic Three Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. 95 Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Palms Merlot—as excellent as anything Duckhorn has Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; ever produced. It shows the hard tannins that always often good value. Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cab- mark the winery’s Bordeaux-style red wines, but it’s lus- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. 98 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). cious and deep in berry fruit, licorice, grilled meat and Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 So enormously delicious, it will be hard to keep from cola. It should have no difficulty negotiating the years. points) are not reviewed. drinking this gorgeous Cabernet right away, and that’s Give it until around 2015, but if you can’t wait, at least SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS just fine. It’s composed of the most intensly concentrat- decant it for a few hours. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent ed flavors of blueberries and blackberries—dense, pure abv: 14.5% Price: $85 quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any and slightly heady with a liqueur-like alcohol. The tan- price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible nins are classic Diamond Mountain, firm and minerally, and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to while oak plays the perfect role of the buttered toast reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but and sweetly charred supporting character. Despite its that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In immediate attraction, it’s best cellared for 6–8 years, at general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. the very least. Fans of old Cabernets will still be loving Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae it in 2029. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are abv: 14.1% Price: $70 generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cab- com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting 96ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ vital, focused Cabernet, this shows the Vineyard (Russian River Val- wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting 95 products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted sheer classiness of Oakville in its con- ley). The winery held this back an additional six months for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted centrated blackberry and black currant after their other 2008 Pinots were released, presumably will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission fruit. It’s seemingly sweet and dry at the to let it become integrated. Still, it’s quite tannic, with a forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. same time, and the tannins, which are sandpaper-like toughness. Despite the astringency, the LABELS extraordinarily thick, are fine and pure. massive wild-cherry, cola, mushroom and anise flavors Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given Irresistably delicious now, this changes come through. It’s a huge wine, feral and untamed— the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and in the glass by the second. It suggests it quite exquisite in its wildness. So delicious now, it’s printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax wants some time in the cellar, so drink hard to resist, but the wise collector will cellar it for 4–5 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. now–2021. Cellar Selection. —S.H. years, maybe even longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 15% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 3 Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount- ville). This shows the richness and pow- er associated with Piña Cabernet, but is just a touch drier and more acidic than the winery’s offerings from warmer parts of Napa. With blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors that are wrapped into ample tannins, it’s a wine that seri- ously wants at least 6–8 years in the cel- Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Sin- lar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 95 gle Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). This Duckhorn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15.2% Price: $85 is a real blaster of a Malbec, showing power, concentra- 94 (Howell Mountain). Bottled in March 2010 tion and subtleties. The bouquet is full of graham crack- and released in September 2011, this wine is still drink- er, cola, monster berry and moss notes, while the pure, ing young and fresh, with firm, rustic tannins. It’s gigan- driving palate deals flavors of toasty blackberry, spice, tic in mineral-infused blackberries and black currants; mocha and more. The lengthy but mellow finish hums the flavors are deep, intense and long-lasting into the like a fine-tuned machine. Drink now–2018. The Wine finish. An impressive wine whose astringency requires Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. aging, hold this until 2017, at the very least. Cellar Se- abv: 15% Price: $50 lection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa 94 Maria Valley). While this Pinot is huge in fruit and has a big, heavyweight mouthfeel, somehow it nev- er loses its sense of delicacy and charm. The flavors are the essence of cherries: ripe, sweet and intense. This Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (An- richness is balanced by the earthiness of a wild mush- 95 derson Valley). This is a big Pinot Noir, with room risotto. With brilliant acidity, it’s a wonderfully re- an explosive intensity of cherries and raspberries that is warding wine, easily on par with the 2009, perhaps a shade better. The grapes come from the famed Sierra ripe and pure. Oak, of course, is there too, in the form Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vine- of buttered, smoky toast. However, the wine isn’t a mere Madre Vineyard. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. yards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bone fruit bomb. It has interesting nuances of earthy things, 94 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 dry, minerally and brisk in mouthwatering acidity, this like mushrooms, nettles and Provençal herbs. The silky has subtle yet rich flavors of tropical fruit, citrus, green texture is an exquisite balance of acids and tannins. This apple and honey. It shows real elegance and complexity; new brand from Hall winery is made by their talented drink now–2016. —S.H. winemaker, Steve Leveque, and it immediately enters abv: 13.5% Price: $55 the California pantheon of excellent Pinot Noirs. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $60

Piña 2009 Firehouse Vine- yard Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmien- (Rutherford). Cabernets just don’t get to Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). much richer, riper or deeper than this 94 This smells as deep as an ocean trench, with mint, cola, single-vineyard beauty. Dry, tannic and blackberry and toast aromas all rolled into a tight bomb fine in acidity, it’s a full-frontal assault of that’s ready to explode. It feels balanced yet densely blackberries, cassis liqueur and new oak, concentrated, with wild berry, tobacco, savory spice and concentrated beyond belief. The sheer even a mild saucy component. This finishes smooth, magnitude demands time in the cellar. Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet with integrated leather, herb and berry flavors. Drink Try after 2015, and it could go far be- Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dark and satu- any time over the next 5–6 years. The Wine Group. Ed- 94 yond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. rated in color, this has earthy and meaty aromas like itors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $85 bloody, rare steak and charred bone—that sort of pro- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 teinous spirit. The actual fruit flavor is incredibly rich and concentrated in blackberries, black currants and crisp bacon. The impression is of a sweet, delicious Cabernet that’s a touch warm in alcohol, but lush and ­refined. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $135

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia 93 Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian 94 Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). This small- Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate River Valley). This late-released bottling is incredibly production Malbec is superb. The bouquet smells 93 Grown (Napa Valley). This is by far the most interesting. Connoisseurs will appreciate the bone-dry mossy, earthy, dense and loaded with smooth berry expensive of Duckhorn’s new releases, but it’s not the minerality and acidity, the subtle creaminess from lees aromas. It’s lush, deep and well balanced on the pal- best to drink now. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s aging and the citrusy flavors that just begin to suggest ate, with powerful black-fruit flavors along with fudge, easy to imagine the winemaker singling out the most tropical fruit. It should continue to develop in the bottle tobacco and cola notes. The feel, flavors and length are tannic and concentrated lots, but what you get is, sim- for a few more years. —S.H. all top quality. Drink now–2018; only 230 cases were ply, a very tannic wine. There’s a gigantic core of black- abv: 14.4% Price: $45 made. Southern Starz, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. berry and black currant fruit, but it’s hard to appreciate abv: 14.5% Price: $90 because of the astringency. The suggestion is longterm aging, but there can be no guarantees. Cellar Selec- tion. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biser- 93 (Carneros). This is powerful in tropical fruit, 93 no (Toscana). From Marchese Lodovico An- apricot and oak flavors, but balanced with acidity and a tinori’s beautiful wine estate in Bibbona, this boasts the tangy, minerally taste of stones. Rich and evocative, it heritage of the great super Tuscan family to which it be- appeals to the senses while retaining a complex intel- Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syr- longs. The blend is Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvi- lectual charm. Drink now with lobster or crab dishes, 93 ah (Cornas). A full-bodied, rich wine, with gnon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the overall effect is especially a rich, buttery risotto. —S.H. tannins either supremely smoooth or just concealed un- simply gorgeous. Richness, generosity and persistence abv: 14.4% Price: $38 der masses of plummy fruit. Yet despite the enormous characterize the mouthfeel, and the bouquet is driven ripeness, it’s not lacking nuance, boasting savory notes by aromas of red cherry, chocolate and spice. Drink af- of espresso and leather. Drinkable now, but should age ter 2015. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar Selec- through 2023, at least. Palm Bay International. —J.C. tion. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $84 abv: 14.5% Price: $80

Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche 93 (Hermitage). With its massively concentrated blackberry fruit framed in ample new oak, this bears a bit of resemblance to some Australian Shirazes. It’s mouthfilling but supple, with nuances of Christmas Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Es- Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Single spices like cinnamon, clove and anise that linger on 93 tate Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley). 93 Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). Gorgeous the long finish. Drink 2014–2023. One, LLC. Delicious and classy, this is based on Merlot, with the balsam wood and graphite aromas blend seamlessly —J.C. other four classic Bordeaux varieties in proper propor- with ripe berry and black scents. It feels lively yet abv: 14% Price: $90 tion. It flatters immediately with its wealth of blackber- cushioned, tasting like a wicked brew of maple, tobacco, ries, black cherries, cola and mocha that finish so dry berry pie and fine wood shavings. This is smooth, long and spicy, yet it has that extra complexity that makes it and comfortable on the tobacco- and resin-flavored fin- intellectually interesting. Drink now and over the next ish. Drink now–2018. The Wine Group. —M.S. six years. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $55

WineMag.com | 5 Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma 93 County). Is it just a simple, delicious drink- Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Mal- MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot me-now Pinot? Or is it actually complex and worthy 92 bec (Luján de Cuyo). This is cool, earthy and 92 Noir (Anderson Valley). This is forward and of pairing with the best foods? It’s both. Front-loaded tight on the nose. Then it opens and blooms, with classy sweet in raspberry and cherry jams. However, it’s not a with raspberry purée, smoked butter and oak flavors, it roasted notes that set the stage for a smooth-rolling pal- simple fruit bomb. With a mushroomy, gamy earthiness has subtle layers of mushroom and dried pine that lift it ate with bold blackberry, herb and chocolate flavors. and refined tannins, it shows true complexity and struc- into an ethereal place. Who cares if it will age? It’s drop- By the time it finishes, complex bitter-chocolate and ture. Not an ager, but it will be beautiful over the next dead gorgeous now. Char-broiled salmon could be your toast notes have taken over. This is primed and ready to few years. —S.H. best pairing. —S.H. drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $47

Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Her- mitage. This full-bodied, creamy Crozes-Her- Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay 92 mitage far outpaces expectations for the appellation, Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). (Napa Valley). Tremendous flavors of honey, 92 92 combining cherry-berry fruit with cracked pepper, mo- The Pocai Vineyard is a very interesting one, growing pear and orange jam are enriched with an oaky vanil- cha and licorice. Then it finishes long, anchored by a , Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon la note. It’s wonderfully creamy and spicy, and while it marriage of fruit and spice. It’s ready to drink now, but and Cabernet Franc, and the wines are always worth seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, the finish is dry. should evolve positively through at least 2017. Vineyard looking into. This Cabernet Franc, at four years of age, Only 425 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. Brands. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. is mellowing, with the tannins turning gentle and the —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $36 flavors becoming delicious and dramatic. Particularly abv: 14.3% Price: $25 bright in red cherries, it’s a beautiful wine for drinking over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cab- 92 River Valley). With a creamy mouthfeel and 92 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A beau- ripe flavors of tangerines, tropical fruits, honey and Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vine- tiful Cabernet, this has all the hallmarks of a fine wine. sweet oak, this is a flashy effort. It will appeal to fans of 92 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). It’s dry, rich in tannins and elegant, with long, deep fla- the variety, and rightfully so, delivering a dry complexity This is potent in lime, sweet lemon, Asian pear and vors of blackberries, currants and dark chocolate. It’s al- that lifts it way above the average. —S.H. tropical fruit flavors, brightened with zesty acidity and ready throwing some sediment, so give it a careful de- abv: 14.1% Price: $30 enriched with notes of mineral and vanilla. Beautiful cant. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. to drink, it will pair with everything from Thai food to abv: 14.3% Price: $40 risotto. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Ver- Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of 92 mouthwatering acidity in this bone-dry Pinot Noir, with 91 dot (St. Helena). This is rich and dramatic in Rich doesn’t begin to describe the layers of flavor and blackberries and black currants, with an olive note and texture. This wine is massive, with notes of tropical fruit an ample supply of ripe fruit in the form of raspber- ries and cherries. There’s also something wonderfully a lovely coating of cedar. Dry and tannic, it has plenty of and apricot, with a slightly botrytized character that class and elegance. Hard to see if this is a longterm ager, Sleepy Hollow Chardonnays often display. The oak is earthy, like roasted mushrooms splashed with balsamic and tamari sauce. The cool 2010 vintage was kind to but it’s fine now and over the next four years. —S.H. lavish and buttery, but perfectly matched to the wine’s abv: 14.8% Price: $38 volume. It also has classic Monterey acidity—as pert as Bacigalupi Vineyard, which can produce overripe wines a squeeze of lime. Delicious, full bodied and exotic, it in hot years. —S.H. defines its vineyard and appellation. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $39 abv: 14.8% Price: $32

Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A 91 lovely Merlot, this is pure, vibrant and elegant. Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita It has classic cherry, red-currant and cedar flavors, and Hills). Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Tos- 92 High alcohol gives this Pinot some heat, while there’s a sweetness at the core, the finish is thor- but it also lends incredible richness and ripeness to the cana). Roccato is a blend of 50% Sangiovese oughly dry. Wonderful to drink now with steak or lamb. 92 flavors, which range from raspberry jam and cherry pie and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon that’s packed with aromas —S.H. filling to buttered toast, creamy vanilla and exotic spice. of blackberry, leather, tobacco and chocolate. It’s velvety abv: 14.5% Price: $52 A delicious and heady offering from Napa Cabernet and rich, with a delicious touch of cherry and cinnamon specialist Hall winery. —S.H. on the long finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 15.2% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $60

Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay 91 (Carneros). What this Chardonnay lacks in immediate fruity richness, it more than makes up for White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardon- in austere, complex minerality. The flavors veer towards 92 nay (Russian River Valley). This is White lemon and lime, with hints of tropical fruit and the sweet smokiness of barrel aging. The acidity is vital and Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (To- Oak’s best Chardonnay in years. The wine benefited rich. It’s a wine that develops complexity as it warms and scana). A cheerful super Tuscan blend of San- from the chilly vintage, expressing citrus and tropical 92 opens up in the glass. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. giovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows a fruit flavors while preserving its vital acidity. It shows abv: 14.1% Price: $18 very elegant and sophisticated side. It is modern, plump real elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $24 and extracted, but it also delivers fine aromas of cherry, vanilla, spice and pipe tobacco. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

WineMag.com | 7 Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Mer- 91 A generous blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard 91 lot (Sonoma Valley). Huge, flashy and dra- Cabernet, this is round and velvety, delivering impres- 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). matic, this shows brilliantly ripened fruit and an exqui- sive aromatic intensity in the form of black cherry, ripe Here’s a Cab that needs some time in the cellar. It’s rich site texture. Flavor wise, it tastes like pure pie filling raspberry, spice, tobacco and dried rosemary. The finish in blackberries and cherries, with the dried herb earthi- seasoned with baking spices. But there’s nothing sweet is soft and long. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. ness often found in Alexander Valley Cabernets. Give it in the finish. Instead, the wine is thoroughly and prop- —M.L. five years or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. erly dry, as Merlot should be. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 abv: 14.4% Price: $35

Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). One of Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vine- Spain’s most character-packed wines, this vintage of 90 Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma Coun- 91 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Mas La Plana deals bacon, berry and earthy aromas in ty-San Joaquin County). Made from a bunch of explodes with ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry fla- front of a weighty, fairly tannic palate. Becoming richer grape varieties, including Zinfandel and Cabernet Sau- vors, while the heat from the alcohol gives it the headi- and riper as it unfolds, this is full of prune, plum and vignon, this is a really nice wine, especially for the price. ness of a liqueur. It’s definitely not a subtle wine, but earthy stewed-berry flavors. It gets better and shows It’s dry, fruity and robust, with rich, earthy flavors of one to enjoy now with grilled tuna, lamb or wild mush- more complexity with air. Drink now–2018. Dreyfus, blackberries and spices. Easy to find, with 22,100 cases room risotto. —S.H. Ashby & Co. —M.S. produced. From E&J Gallo. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Mon- 90 tefalco Rosso. The entire line-up from Arnaldo Caprai has been very successful this year. This blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot de- livers a smooth mouthfeel and ripe fruit flavors, with background tones of black Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vine- licorice and moist pipe tobacco. A spot Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). This blend 91 yard Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian Riv- of crisp acidity appears on the finish. Fo- 90 of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon er Valley). This is one of the driest wines Marimar lio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. and Cabernet Franc opens with jammy, almost impene- Estate ever has produced—in a good sense. The cool abv: 14% Price: $23 trable aromas of blackberry, maraschino cherry, pipe to- vintage has made the Chardonnay minerally and sleek, bacco and dark chocolate. “Huge” is the operative word. while Albariño brings its usual lemony crispness. The Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L. result is a versatile, stylishly elegant wine. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $57 abv: 13.9% Price: $28

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys 90 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut plush in texture, with extremely supple tannins along- Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di 88 (Cava). This is slightly smoky, toasty and yeasty side flavors of raspberry, plum and clove. The juicy 90 Fizzano (Chianti Classico). With its inky up front, with a touch of matchstick to the nose. Rich, beam of fresh fruit lingers nicely on the finish. Drink concentration, rich extraction and ripe aromas of black- sweet tasting and candied on the palate, it has baking now–2018. DC Flynt MW Selections. Editors’ Choice. berry pie and cherry preserves, fine craftsmanship is spice, apple and honeydew flavors. It’s tasty through- —J.C. evident. Soft veins of spice and chocolate weave ele- out and just elevated enough in mouthfeel to earn a few abv: 14.5% Price: $20 gantly throughout. Palm Bay International. —M.L. complexity points. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 11.5% Price: $18

MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde 90 (Sonoma Coast). As appealing as a dessert 88 (Frascati Superiore). A blend of Malvasia, pastry, this has raspberry and cherry fruit, with roast- Trig Point 2010 Diamond Dust Vineyard Greco and Grechetto, this fresh white delivers zesty ed almond, sweet vanilla and buttered toast flavors. Not 90 Merlot (Alexander Valley). A fine Merlot, acidity and lively notes of bitter almond, white flower, particularly complex, but it scores high on the delicious softly lush and rich in cherries and mocha, wrapped into citrus and crushed mineral. It would pair beautifully scale. Drink now. —S.H. firm tannins. An earthy herb note grounds it, saving it with a heaping plate of spaghetti con le vongole. Vias abv: 14.3% Price: $49 from being simply a fruit bomb. Drink now. Editors’ Imports. —M.L. Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $18

MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pi- Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvi- not Noir (Anderson Valley). This is so rich 90 gnon (Mendoza). Cassis, sugar beet, leather and saturated you can taste the sunshine in every sip. 88 and mild herbal aromas make this Cabernet appealing It bursts across the palate with bright, jammy raspber- Trig Point 2009 Diamond Dust Vineyard on the nose. It feels slightly syrupy and resiny, but with ry and cherry flavors. It may not have great subtlety or Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). 90 its core acidity the palate remains in good shape. Fla- ageworthiness, but it excels for its sheer deliciousness. A beautiful Cabernet, this is soft, dry and delicious. It vors of plum and cassis have a strong vanilla and oak —S.H. really showcases the Alexander Valley in its classic pro- resin accent, while the finish is tannic, roasted and ro- abv: 14.9% Price: $49 file of herb-infused blackberry fruit and gentle tannins. bust. The Wine Group. —M.S. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $22

WineMag.com | 9 SPIRITS SPIRITS

Patrón XO Café Dark Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack 94 Cocoa (Mexico; The 91 from Brooklyn, Brooklyn, Patron Spirits Company, Las NY). This new spirit based on a tradi- Vegas, NV). This addictive new- tional Caribbean recipe, features a comer from maker Patron deep plum color thanks to macerated combines coffee, chocolate and sil- hibiscus and a spicy clove aroma that ver Tequila. It looks and smells like seems to leap out of the glass. Although Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon a dead ringer for your morning it can be used to add pretty color to 87 (Lodi). Michael David’s new Cabernet Sauvi- espresso. But on the palate, sweet, or , or to spice up a gnon brand has the winery’s signature toasted oak and almost nutty agave notes emerge, warm toddy, it’s addictively sippable coconut-kissed tannins. But it’s interestingly tamed, fading into a creamy, caramel milk-chocolate profile, straight up, with a mild alcohol level bearing bursts of black cherry and blackberry that with just a dusting of espresso on the finish. This liqueur that won’t leave you reeling. effortlessly hit your palate in between quiet gusts of lends itself to mixing with coffee or crafting espresso abv: 15% Price: $28 vanilla spice. —V.B. martini cocktails, yet it’s polished enough to sip straight abv: 14.5% Price: $18 up over ice. abv: 30% Price: $25

Bottega Gianduia (Italy; 89 Palm Bay International, Schwartzhog Kräuter Li- Port Washington, NY). The inno- 92 queur (; The Oth- cent-looking light brown hue evokes er Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). chocolate milk. But the aroma warns of Look for a deep brick-red color and decadence, with a luscious candy-bar pleasing orange and dried-fruit scents. aroma, nuts and rich milk chocolate. In Light and mouthwatering, finishing the mouth, it melts into a thick and vel- Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). Pale with an herbal lilt. Nice postprandial vety feel, with a boozy, milky finish. It’s 87 gold in color, this pretty blend of Sauvignon sipper. like sipping liquified chocolate laced Blanc and Trebbiano shows mineral notes and aromas abv: 36.7% Price: $15 with hazelnut liqueur. of hay, light spice and stone fruit. Southern Wine and abv: 17% Price: $25 Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

SPIRITS

Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision Killepitsch (Germany; Vi- Bottega Limoncino (Italy; 89 Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, 95 sion Wine & Spirits, Secau- 91 Palm Bay International, NJ). The marzipan aroma is huge, cus, NJ). The special-edition bottle is Port Washington, NY). Made with wafting off the glass when it is still an modern and trippy, purple with pink let- Sicilian lemons and grappa, this “lim- arm’s length away. The big, sticky- tering and a cartoony Keith Haring- oncino” has a lingering, bright lemon- sweet almond and hazelnut flavor is esque design. But the recipe for this tra- candy flavor cut by a welcome fillip of overwhelming at first, but pulls back ditional herbal liqueur dates back to the brisk alcohol, which softens the sweet- quickly, leaving just a delicate whisper mid 1800s—“a taste of old Dusseldorf.” ness, and a hint of lemongrass. Al- of nuts and orange on the finish. Be- Old or new, it’s complex and delicious, though the brand recommends using yond the glass, this would be a great with a Cognac-like dried-fruit and spice the spirit for lemon drop cocktails, it addition to baked goods or spooned base—raisins, dates, cherries, figs, cin- would be equally at home in a drink over fruit or ice cream. namon, sarsaparilla and black pepper all with gin or infused with botanicals like abv: 24% Price: $25 can be detected. Would make a dyna- rosemary. mite digestif, especially paired with a abv: 30% Price: $24 fruity dessert. abv: 42% Price: $25

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 SPIRITS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Bottega Sambuca (Italy; 88 Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). Made from the essential oils from star-anise seeds, this clear and bright digestif smells and tastes like Good & Plenty licorice can- dies. Viscous and tongue coating. Stir into coffee or sip straight up, well chilled. abv: 40% Price: $24 Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Sen- Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho 91 hora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional- 89 Verde). From Aveleda’s home estate, this is a Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). Concentrated and lively wine with crisp fruit. Bone dry, the palate shows powerful, this is a rich and intense black-fruited wine. a more serious, intensely citric element, showing bright BEER Notes of spice, herb and dark chocolate mingle with acidity on the finish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. the flavor of black plum juice and firm, dry tannins. The —R.V. result is a wine that needs several more years to age. abv: 11.5% Price: $9 FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve 89 Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale; Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). This vinous beer brewed with Chardonnay grape juice is a nice DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante crossover beer for wine lovers. It pours a clear, light 91 Bouschet (Lisboa). This is deeply colored Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Grenache- gold color with a frothy but fleeting white head, and and rich, showing both the juicy fruit character of Ali- 89 Merlot (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée). shows good carbonation. The bouquet is fruit forward, cante Bouschet and a more serious, concentrated ele- It’s an unusual blend, but it works, creating a round, brimming with notes of lemon and ripe white grapes. ment. It’s solid and densely tannic, with wood flavors supple wine for immediate enjoyment. Hints of or- Earthy spice and toasted grain accents in the back- layered on its black plum fruit. This is worth aging for ange peel, coriander and green olive bring complexity ground increase in intensity on the palate alongside ripe another two years. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. to notes of plum and cherry, while the finish turns dark notes of peach and apple. The finish is clean, with just a —R.V. and espresso-like. Bourgeois Family Selections. Best hint of honeyed sweetness on the back. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Buy. —J.C. abv: 8.5% Price: $10/750 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). This 90 Touriga Nacional (Beiras). Wood laden, this 88 is always a really good buy among rosé spar- is a spice- and fruit-flavored wine. It’s complex, dense klers and a personal favorite in the Best Buy category. DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga Na- and packed with dusty tannins. Still young, although al- It opens with red fruit, vanilla and yeasty aromas, but ready finely balanced, its structure is powerful and the cional (Lisboa). The combination of black- it’s racy, crisp and refined in the mouth, with nectar- 92 wine is dark, full and rich. Age for 2–3 years. FJN Fine berry fruit and firm, dark tannins has created a complex, ine, peach and controlled citrus flavors. It’s dry, spicy Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. impressive wine. This has plenty of fruit, but the main and fairly smooth on the finish. Freixenet USA. Best abv: 14% Price: $15 components at this stage are its weight and structure. Buy. —M.S. It has considerable aging potential; keep for 3–4 years. abv: 12% Price: $12 Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 11 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (). McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junc- Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). Clean, stylish and 87 Cheers to one of Rioja’s most basic yet consis- 86 tion). Using grapes sourced from a cool subap- 88 easy to like, this has apple and green herb aro- tent white wines. Minerally and crystalline on the nose, pellation of the Lodi area, this is a fine, ripe wine that mas. It shows a good weight and mouthfeel, with pa- with dusty apple, melon and stony aromas, this Viura is finishes sweetly on a note of vanilla. Its acidity is in bal- paya, thyme and baked apple flavors. Medium long fresh, dry and average in weight. It tastes of papaya and ance, making this a wine that will easily please a crowd. and smooth on the finish, this is a commendable value- apple, finishing dry and clean. Vineyard Brands. Best Best Buy. —V.B. priced bubbly. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 11.5% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $9

Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava). 88 This is as crisp and dry as a whispy reed, with a Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (Califor- mild grassy note on the nose. It feels fresh and focused, 86 nia). If this Merlot had greater flavor intensity, it would be spectacular. It’s a very nice photocopy of a with lime, peach and apple flavors. Fruity, fresh and El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). This is grassy great Merlot, meaning that the berry and spice fruit is easy to like from start to finish, this is what a Best Buy and pungent up front, with citrus, nectarine and 86 soft in focus but pleasurable. A great value—dry and should be. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. apple aromas. It feels crisp and tangy, with chalky grip abv: 12% Price: $10 classy in its own way. Best Buy. —S.H. and flavors of citrus and green apple. Snappy and long abv: 13% Price: $8 on the finish, this is a Sauvignon Blanc-styled Viura. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $11

Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo 88 Seco). Off-dry to sweet, this is firmed up with crisp acidity. The citrus, honeysuckle and vanilla fla- Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). An vors are easy to like, with a flowery, sweet finish. This L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin easygoing, crisp and well-priced Chardonnay, delightful Riesling calls to mind gardens on summer de France). Fragrant and fruity, this is an at- 85 86 this has swirls of smooth apple and pear. Best Buy. evenings. Best Buy. —S.H. tractive, full rosé. It has just the right amount of red cur- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 rant acidity to go with the ripe strawberry note. Ready —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 to drink. Luxe Vintages. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Sogevinus 2011 Curva (Douro). This is an 87 apple-crisp wine that’s laced with a zing of lem- BEST BUYS BEST BUYS on zest. Taut and nervy, this is straight as an arrow in terms of its fresh acidity. It’s lively, bright and ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. House Band NV Chardon- abv: 13% Price: $NA 85 nay (California). Sold in in- dividual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs, Quinta do Portal 2011 Portal Colheita this is a dry, clean wine with lots of 86 Branco (Douro). Spicy and perfumed, this acidity that brightens the creamy apri- has a rich yellow-fruit flavor that’s contrasted with a cot, orange and peach flavors. Best crisp pink-grapefruit edge. It’s rounded and smooth, Buy. —S.H. with a taut, herbal burst on the finish. M Imports, LLC. abv: 13.8% Price: $5/375 ml —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempra- 84 nillo (Rioja). This is snappy all the way, if a Barros 2011 White (Douro). Very aromat- touch raw and citric on the palate. Freshness is a virtue 85 ic, this has flavors of lychee and lemon. It has a on this affordable Rioja, while red plum, raspberry and spicy feel to it, giving it a soft, rounded texture. Ready to milk chocolate notes carry the flavor profile. Drink now. drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $6 LISBOA WHITES DFJ Vinhos 2011 DFJ White (Lis- 90 boa). Round and smooth, this has a weighty, full-bodied structure, with the Alvarinho adding a more CORRECTIONS crisp character. Pear and melon fruits are balanced by citrusy acidity. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. On page 24 of the August issue, we incorrectly stated abv: 13% Price: $10 that Dana Farner was a master sommelier. Farner has only passed the tasting portion of the exam. DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Alvarinho 88 (Lisboa). For an Alvarinho this is surprisingly On page 92 of the August issue, we incorrectly listed herbaceous, bearing a green cut-grass aroma and lemon Piccini 2011 Chianti. Fresh and simple, this Erin Smith as sommelier of Restaurant August. Erin and pink grapefruit flavors. As the wine fills out over 85 iconic Chianti from Piccini boils the Tuscan red White is the sommelier. the next year, it will probably show more of the grape’s wine experience down to its easiest and most genuine creamed apple and pear flavors. Dionysos Imports Inc. state. This is a crisp, lean wine with a ruby color and On page 20 of the September issue, we incorrectly at- Best Buy. —R.V. bright berry aromas. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. tributed a quote to Chef Eiji Ichimura. It should have abv: 12.5% Price: $11 —M.L. referenced Chef Isao Yamada. abv: 13% Price: $10 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte (Lis- On page 50 of the September isuse, we incorrectly 88 boa). Swathes of ripe fruit surface on this wine, identified Roman Coppola as Philippe Bascaules. with lime and peach flavors followed by a more miner- ally texture. It’s a wine to drink now or age over the next year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 NEXT MONTH Companhia das Quintas 2011 Pancas HERE’S WHAT’S COMING UP IN WINE 87 Branco (Lisboa). This is a piercingly fresh ENTHUSIAST'S NOVEMBER MAGAZINE: wine from vines close to the Atlantic Ocean. The citrusy acidity is balanced by riper yellow fruit and pineapple. Top 100 Best Buys of 2012 Age for a few months, but it can also be consumed now. Of the thousands of wines tasted this year, the editors of Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Wine Enthusiast reveal their picks of the top Best Buys. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

A Driving Tour of Piedmont DFJ Vinhos 2011 Paxis Branco Arinto With its beautiful scenery, fabulous wines and the 86 (Lisboa). Smooth and oily in texture, this is Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Men- region’s famous white truffles, who wouldn’t want to round and full of pear juice flavor. There is just a touch 85 doza). Earthy and warm on the nose, this has take a road trip through this gourmand’s paradise? of green legume, adding piquancy to this ripe wine. compost and leafy raspberry aromas. It shows good feel Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. and balance, with light plum, cherry and citrus-infused Pairing Cheese & Wine abv: 12% Price: $8 flavors. The finish is good and solid, concluding with When the two complex worlds of cheese and wine a tobacco note. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. collide, it’s enough to exasperate any gourmet No DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Branco abv: 14% Price: $10 longer, thanks to this easy pairing guide. 85 (Lisboa). This is rich and smooth, with round- ed and ripe fruit. Red apple, banana and lime flavors work together to yield a wine that’s ready to drink. Dio- nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

WineMag.com | 13 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Branco (Lisboa). Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho lemon zest flavor and a bright prickle on the palate. It’s 85 This is an attractively balanced apple- and pear- 89 Verde). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. flavored wine. It is crisp, fruity and nicely creamy, with abv: 11.5% Price: $9 abv: 10.5% Price: $NA some bright acidity on the finish Drink now or age for a year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2011 Toucas (Vin- Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Grande Escolha abv: NA Price: $6 89 ho Verde). This is very aromatic, with live- 85 (Vinho Verde). This is a pleasant, fruity Vinho ly acidity, a soft and creamy texture, and a rounded Verde with the right fresh lemon flavor. There is a light DFJ Vinhos 2011 Portada Winemaker’s yellow-fruit flavor that’s balanced by a citrus note. It is prickle to add to the crisp character. P.R. Grisley Com- 85 Selection White (Lisboa). This has soft, ripe elegant, rich and worth aging for another year. Iberia pany. —R.V. fruit, with notes of lime and orange zest fitting easily Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 with the ripe peach and melon flavors. This is warm, abv: 12.5% Price: $19 rounded and ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Branco (Vin- Buy. —R.V. Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Avesso (Vinho 84 ho Verde). Light and crisp, this offers a subtle abv: 12.5% Price: $7 88 Verde). Avesso, a rare varietal in the Vinho prickle on the palate. The lively apple and grapefruit fla- Verde region, has produced a smooth and ripe wine. It vors are right up front along with a light sweetness. FJN DFJ Vinhos 2011 Point West (Lisboa). A has flavors of green olive, pear and a tight citrus char- Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 84 rounded wine, this gives pleasure with its pear acter. There’s fine depth of flavor on this delicious wine. abv: 10% Price: $NA and ripe apple flavors. Lightly touched with acidity, this P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. has a soft finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 Quinta do Portal 2011 Trevo (Vinho abv: 12.5% Price: $9 84 Verde). This is a lively, off-dry wine with in- Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Alvarinho (Vin- tense acidity to accompany its crisp apple and citrus fla- DFJ Vinhos 2011 Segada Branco (Lis- 88 ho Verde). Floral and aromatic, this has a hint vors. Very fruity, it’s ready to drink now. Screwcap. M 84 boa). This is fruity, with pear and baked ap- of prickle to go with the citrus, green apple and white Imports, LLC. —R.V. ple flavors that lend a rich, spicy character. It has some peach flavors. There is an attractive mineral character— abv: 10.5% Price: $9 weight along with an attractive touch of acidity. Dio- the wine dancing and fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2011 Clemens abv: NA Price: $8 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 84 Reserva (Vinho Verde). Crisp and herba- ceous, this is a green-fruited wine that’s light on the pal- Quinta do Gradil NV Filigrana (Lisboa). A Vera 2011 Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Crisp ate, offering delightful refreshing acidity. This is very 84 fresh prickle gives this crisp, Vinho Verde loo- 87 and green, this has a ripe, rounded apple flavor fruity and ready to drink. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. kalike its lively lift. Semi-sweet and fragrant, this has that lends the wine richness. There is a yeasty charac- abv: 11% Price: $NA acidity and flavors of green apple and citrus. Grape Mo- ter to go with the fruitiness, while the refreshing acid- ments. —R.V. ity lasts through the finish. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. Wines & Winemakers 2011 Salsus (Vin- abv: 10% Price: $NA —R.V. 84 ho Verde). The light prickle adds to the natu- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ral freshness of this lemon-sherbet-flavored wine. Very DFJ Vinhos 2011 Storks Landing White crisp and light in the mouth, this dances on the palate 83 (Lisboa). Very soft and easy going, this has Adega de Monção 2011 Fuzelo (Vinho with just a touch of sweetness. Import/Export rounded peach and apple flavors. The acidity is light, 86 Verde). Lightly smooth and crisp, this is domi- Co. LLC. —R.V. hinting at citrus. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. nated by a citrus flavor and bright acidity. It’s a typical, abv: 9.5% Price: $NA —R.V. easy-drinking wine that’s ready to consume now. Aidil abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA OTHER WHITE WINES Companhia das Quintas 2010 Morgado Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Loureiro (Vinho VINHO VERDE de Santa Catherina Reserva (Bucelas). Verde). This manages to be rounded and crisp 91 Adega de Monção 2010 Deu la Deu Al- 86 Wood-aged, this is a ripe-textured wine that has rich at the same time, giving an intense citrus flavor and a varinho (Vinho Verde). Monção is the home flavors of yellow and white fruits and toast. It has con- 90 soft texture, with just a touch of honey on the finish. P.R. of Portuguese Alvarinho. Ripe and opulent, this is full centrated, intense fruit that bursts in the mouth. Deli- Grisley Company. —R.V. of yellow fruit, tangy citrus and intense acidity. After an cious and impressive, this could be aged for another two abv: 11.5% Price: $13 extra year of aging, this finely balanced and impressive years. Importo LLC. —R.V. wine is ready to drink. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Vera 2011 Vinho Verde. This is delightful abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 and lightly sweet, bubbling in the mouth with Aveleda 2011 Follies Janela Manuelina notes of citrus, mandarin orange and some richer peach Wines & Winemakers 2011 Nostalgia Al- (Minho). This blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro and white fruit flavors. The acidity gives the wine a lively 90 varinho (Vinho Verde). This is a rich, full- is both herbaceous and ripe. The tang of the texture 90 lift. Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. bodied and impressive wine, with intense and complex manages to bring out the grapefruit flavor while allow- abv: 12% Price: $NA flavors of apple and green fruit. The acidity meshes with ing space for the underlying white peach note. The fin- the ripe fruit. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. ish is rich, and the wine will age for another year. FJN Aveleda 2011 Aveleda (Vinho Verde). abv: 13% Price: $22 Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. There is a healthy pop as you open this light- 85 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de ly sparkling, just off-dry Vinho Verde. It has a citrusy lemon-sherbet tang of acidity, combining with a light Monção (Vinho Verde). With a high pro- Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Garrida 89 dancing touch. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. portion of Alvarinho in the blend, this is round, with a Reserva Branco (Dão). Rich and ripe, this abv: 10% Price: $NA 89 creamed apple flavor. It is ripe, full and delicious now. has pear, peach and quince fruits that are rounded out Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. by wood aging. It has a floral character that balances Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança (Vinho abv: 12.5% Price: $NA the richness. It will age for another two years. Tri-Vin Verde). Lightly sweet, this is freshened with a 85 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Prova Ré- DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Rosé touches of sweet strawberry and vanilla to go with the 88 gia Premium Arinto (Bucelas). Delicious, 85 (Lisboa). Smooth and rounded, this is a food- orange zest acidity. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. rich and fruity, this is full of peach and citrus fruits that friendly rosé. It has a ripe strawberry flavor, with a touch Best Buy. —R.V. add lift to the wine’s ripeness. It’s a great apéritif and of lime juice and a soft, full finish. Just a touch of tan- abv: 12% Price: $8 would also pair well with seafood. Importo LLC. —R.V. nin gives extra character. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best abv: 13% Price: $15 Buy. —R.V. Parras Vinhos NV Filigrana Rosé (Lis- abv: 12.5% Price: $8 84 boa). With an attractive fresh prickle on the Aveleda 2011 Alvarinho (Minho). Bringing palate, this is a crisp wine with a red fruit flavor, acidity 87 out the herbaceous side of Alvarinho, this is a DFJ Vinhos 2011 Portada Winemaker’s and a soft, sweet finish. Grape Moments. —R.V. freshly crisp wine. It has grapefruit and green apple fla- 85 Selection Rosé (Lisboa). Soft and ripe, a abv: 10% Price: $NA vors, with the acidity brightening the texture on the fin- flavor of crushed strawberries leads this wine in a fruity ish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. direction. It has notes of vanilla and spice, with attrac- Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Espadeiro Rosé abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tive balancing acidity. This is a food-friendly rosé. LGL 84 (Vinho Verde). This is a fresh and fragrant Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. rosé from the Vinho Verde region. It has light acidity Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colhei- abv: NA Price: $7 and a red fruit flavor. The lightest prickle gives just that 86 ta Seleccionada (Tejo). This is soft, more extra lift. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. creamy than crisp, with an attractive floral character Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colhei- abv: 11.5% Price: $13 that details the soft pear flavor. Not for aging, so drink 85 ta Seleccionada Rosé (Tejo). Bright and this over the next year. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. fruity, with a tannic edge, this is a blend of Touriga Na- Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portugal abv: 12.5% Price: $9 cional and Syrah. This is food friendly, with a rich red- 84 Rosé (Setubal). Ripe and fruity, this bears a fruit flavor that’s cut with a caramel note and strawberry red berry flavor and a dry structure. It has weight, rich- Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Bran- acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. ness and a smooth finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. 86 co (Tejo). Attractive and herbaceous, this has abv: 13% Price: $9 —R.V. an apple flavor that’s laced with a citrus note. Fresh and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA crisp, it’s fruity, forward and can be consumed now. Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Padeiro Rosé Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 85 (Vinho Verde). Very fruity and smooth, Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Rosé abv: 12.5% Price: $NA this has a ripe strawberry flavor and balancing acid- 84 (Tejo). This is a floral, aromatic and dry rosé, ity. It shows some richness while remaining crisp and full of red currant fruit and refreshing acidity. It’s a great Caves Aliança 2011 Galeria Bical (Bair- fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. apéritif wine. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 85 rada). Soft and gentle, this has pear and ripe abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $NA apple flavors, with a light touch of creamy acidity. It’s a food-friendly wine—round and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Quinta do Portal 2011 Colheita Rosé DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa). Imports. —R.V. 85 (Douro). This is rich and dry yet also fruity. 83 This is a rounded, full-bodied rosé that also has abv: 13% Price: $NA Perfumed in character, it is full, soft and smooth, allow- a herbal element. It has a wild strawberry flavor, with ing the acidity a place on the finish. M Imports, LLC. light acidity and sweetness. Screwcap. Dionysos Im- Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena —R.V. ports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 84 Branco (Setubal). Light and fragrant, this has abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: NA Price: $6 pear and lemon flavors. It’s ripe, soft and ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Vera 2011 Rosé (Vinho Verde). This is a Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 85 seemingly weet rosé, with a good balance be- 83 Rosé (Setubal). Soft, with strawberry flavors tween its strawberry fruit and acidity. The wine is slight- and only light acidity, this has a caramel burst that sur- ly sparkling and crisp, making it a delicious apéritif. faces on the finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. SPARKLING WINE Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Aveleda NV Casal Garcia (Vinho abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Espumante). A medium-sweet sparkling 85 Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho ALENTEJANO REDS wine, this bursts with a ripe apple flavor on the pal- Verde). Crisp and intensely acidic, this has a ate. The wine is crisp, deliciously clean and refreshing. 84 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade touch of tannin that adds structure. It has red apple Think of it like Moscato. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 92 da Farizoa Grand Escolha (Alentejano). abv: 11.5% Price: $NA fruit, giving roundness and some sweetness on the fin- A dark-colored, wood-aged wine, this is serious and ish. Screwcap, FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. power­ful. It has tannic weight along with a blackberry­ abv: 10.5% Price: $NA flavor, and a smooth tar and herb layer that’s all bal- ROSÉS anced by the acidity. The wood still needs another year Caves Aliança 2011 Vista Rosé (Terras to fully integrate; age for another 2–3 years. Importo Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de da Beira). Ripe and soft, this is made from 84 LLC. —R.V. Monção Rosé (Vinho Verde). There is a 85 Tinta Roriz. It is rich and full bodied, with its rounded abv: 14% Price: $55 light prickle to this freshly crisp and dry rosé. It bursts strawberry fruit leaving just enough room on the palate with raspberry and red currant flavors, tangy acidity and for crispness. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Monte Seis Reis 2007 Reserva (Alente- a lively finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA jano). The smooth oak aging is a major element abv: 11% Price: $NA 92 in the success of this elegant wine. While it has rich, pol- DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Rosé ished black fruits and a strong tannic core, it also has a Churchill’s 2011 Rosé (Douro). Made from (Alentejano). Smooth, rounded and dry, this 84 licorice character. It is now maturing, ready to drink as Touriga Nacional, this is a deliciously light, crisp has plum and strawberry flavors. Full in the mouth and 85 a serious, complex wine. Mediterranean Specialty Prod- and clean strawberry-flavored wine. It has lively acidity touched by spice, this is a rosé for food. Dionysos Im- ucts. —R.V. and a real summer feel. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman Best Buy. ports Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 12% Price: $NA Adega Mayor 2008 Pai Chão Garrafeira DFJ Vinhos 2011 Pink Elephant Rosé (Alentejano). The top red from Adega Mayor, (Lisboa). Fruity and off-dry, this has light 91 84 this is serious and impressive. Its firm, dry and dusty

WineMag.com | 15 tannins are balanced by an intense blackberry flavor and Monte Seis Reis 2009 Private Selection Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta da Terrugem contrasted with licorice and coffee notes. As it ages, it 88 (Alentejano). This is very ripe, rounded and 89 (Alentejo). Deep, rich and softly ripe, this is will become more intense and elegant. Aidil Wines & rich, with its black fruit dominating the tarry, tannic a powerful, generous wine. Its tannins are cushioned Liquor Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. character. Chocolate and mint notes surface from the within the ripe blackberry and milk chocolate flavors. abv: 14% Price: $NA wood aging. With its dark toast element, this could age Ready to drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. another two years. Mediterranean Specialty Products. abv: 14% Price: $NA Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade —R.V. 91 da Farizoa Reserva (Alentejano). Densely abv: NA Price: $NA Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Santos tannic, this is also full of sweet berry fruits. Powerful 88 Jorge (Alentejo). Big, bold and tannic, this and superripe, its fruit is beginning to integrate into the Monte Seis Reis 2008 Syrah (Alenteja- has a solid structure that’s balanced by ripe fruit. It is big, smoky, chocolaty structure. The finish shows both 88 no). This is big and powerful, soft and rounded, full bodied, rich in damson and plum flavors, with a toast and juicy fruit notes. Keep for 3–4 years. Importo with the tannins buried in the foward black-fruit flavor. firm, dusty texture. Drink now, but this can also age over LLC. —R.V. It’s almost too dense for its own good, a blockbuster that the next 1–2 years. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. abv: 14% Price: $30 has ripe fruit, but misses out on structure. Mediterra- Best Buy. —R.V. nean Specialty Products. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $7 Herdade Grande 2008 Reserva (Alente- abv: 15% Price: $NA 90 jano). Solid and powerful, this has its tannins wound around flavors of dark plum skin and blackberry. Companhia das Quintas 2010 Farizoa BAIRRADA REDS It’s concentrated and chunky, with bitter chocolate and (Alentejano). 87 Ripe and soft, this has notes Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta das Bacela- spice notes added to the mix. Age for 2–3 years. Grape of plum skins, black cherries, dark chocolate and toast das (Bairrada). Earthy aromas are a hallmark Moments. —R.V. from the wood aging. It’s structured, powerful and 92 of the Baga grape, a component of this full-bodied, tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 worth aging for 2–3 years, although its richness makes nic blend. With weight and richness, a mint note and it drinkable now. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. new wood flavors, it is a serious wine that still should Herdade das Servas 2008 Touriga Na- abv: 14% Price: $12 develop over three years. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar cional (Alentejano). While the aromas are 89 Selection. —R.V. earthy, with a farmyard character, the finely textured Herdade Grande 2009 15 Vendimias Col- abv: 14% Price: $NA palate is fruitier. The tannins give a firm, structured 87 heita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Balanced base for the red currant flavor. Solid and rich, this is and structured, this has red fruit flavors, firm tannins Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2009 now maturing, but it retains its youthful acidity. Simões and a core of concentrated dryness. It is ready to drink, Ataide Seredo Reserva (Bairrada). Big, Imports. —R.V. although it could age for another year. Grape Moments. 91 rich and ripe, this is packed with intense black fruits abv: 14.5% Price: $26 —R.V. and dark tannins, with the solid structure yielding a abv: 13.5% Price: $20 dense core. Its fruit is balanced by acidity, giving the Adega Mayor 2010 Monte Mayor (Alente- wine ­essential lift. Age for 4–5 years. Obrigado Vinhos jano). The very soft, juicy red fruit characteriz- Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Toutalga 88 Portugal. —R.V. es this easy, ripe wine. It has a light tannic core, with its (Alentejano). This is a ripe-fruited wine, rich 86 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA dryness kept well in check by the exuberant, juicy fruit. with dried fruits, sweet tannins and a soft texture. With Young and fruity, it is ready for aging over the next two its weight and juicy character, this is ready to drink. Sar- Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2010 years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. mento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Ataide Seredo (Bairrada). With Baga in the abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $4 88 blend, this is a firm, ripe and tannic wine. It has a rich, tarry character, with dark plum and blueberry fruits. Adega Mayor 2007 Reserva do Comen- Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória Red With its solid structure, this should age over 2–3 years. dador (Alentejano). This is ripe, almost too (Alentejano). This is spicy, with a dry, dusty 88 86 Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. ripe, with its broad red fruits and soft tannins. The tex- character that’s laid over the blackberry fruit. It is full abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ture is smooth, with a burst of acidity. It’s ready to drink on the palate, almost sweet in character, showing a soft, now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. warm finish. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA BEIRA INTERIOR REDS Herdade das Servas 2010 Monte das Herdade dos Machedos 2009 Morgado Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do 88 Servas (Alentejano). Very fruity, this is full 84 da Canita (Alentejano). This feels very ripe, 93 Cardo Grande Escolha (Beira Interior). of red fruits, soft tannins and juicy acidity. The wine is perhaps overripe, with its seemingly sweet flavor of An impressive, serious wine that’s only produced in top soft, forward and immediately appealing due to its acid- black fruit juice and its soft structure. It’s appealing and vintages. It’s elegant and complex, a powerful wine with ity and aromatic finish. Simões Imports. —R.V. does have some tannins, but it is not for aging. Sarmen- its dark tannins, licorice and black plum flavors. Con- abv: 14% Price: $NA to’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. centrated and intense, it’s worth aging for at least four abv: 14% Price: $5 years. Importo LLC. —R.V. Herdade Grande 2010 Red (Alentejano). abv: 13.5% Price: $55 88 Full bodied and rich, this has a well-balanced structure, with a dry, tannic core. It’s powerful and ALENTEJO REDS Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do packed with a juicy black-fruit flavor. This can be aged Cardo Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beira Caves Aliança 2008 T Quinta da Terru- 91 for at least two years. Grape Moments. —R.V. Interior). From its almost black color, it’s obvious this gem (Alentejo). Firm and structured, this is abv: 14% Price: $17 92 is a powerful wine. The wood aging is initially appar- a densely rich wine for aging. Firm tannins dominate its ent, with a mint flavor laid over firm, dry tannins. Then ripe black fruit, lending notes of spice, licorice and toast José Maria da Fonseca 2010 José de comes the ripe berry flavor and acidity. The integrated from the wood. It needs several years of aging to round Sousa (Alentejano). This is an earthy wine combination is dark, powerful and ready to age over 3–4 88 out—give it four years at least. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar that packs ripe fruit with structure and acidity. There is years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. a juicy character from the red berry flavor that is given abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA shape by the underlying tannins. Palm Bay Internation- al. —R.V. Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do abv: 13.5% Price: $16 91 Cardo Selecção do Enólogo (Beira Interi-

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 or). This is an austere wine that blossoms slowly. Using pressive, ageworthy effort. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Se- feel; age it for four years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selec- grapes sourced from a vineyard at an elevation of 2,000 lection. —R.V. tion. —R.V. feet, this has a wild herb character along with dark black abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $45 fruits and tannins that need several years to age. Give this very ageworthy effort at least four years. Imports Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Dão). A com- Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 plex, full-bodied wine, structured with the 92 Fronteira Selecção do Enólogo (Douro). abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Dão’s typical taut minerality. It has richness hidden Huge and rich, this offers ripe black fruits and a con- behind the firm tannins and dense texture. This is still centrated structure. It’s packed with a seemingly sweet Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do young and will develop over the next 3–4 years. Evaton, blackberry flavor that serves as a counterpoint to the 90 Cardo (Beira Interior). A firmly tannic wine, Inc. —R.V. firm texture. With both density and a dark edge, this will this has a dark structure and black fruits. It has a strong abv: 13.5% Price: $NA age over several years. Importo LLC. Editors’ Choice. minerally character to go with its fruit and acidity. With —R.V. its weight and tannins, it has the potential to age for over Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança Reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $20 several years. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 (Dão). This is a typical mineral-driven Dão abv: 13% Price: $12 wine, with structure and complex, dry and firm fruits. Wines & Winemakers 2009 Andreza Licorice and wood notes also add to the mix. This needs 92 Grande Reserva (Douro). New-wood domi- at least three years of aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. nates this wine, with a very toasty quality, a seemingly BEIRAS REDS abv: 13.5% Price: $NA sweet vanilla flavor and a touch of pepper from the al- cohol. The black fruits are still burried under the wood Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Vinhas Vidigal 2010 Red (Dão). Lean and austere, character, although the fruits’ weight suggests they will Velhas de Santa Maria (Beiras). Initial new 93 this brings out the mineral character of the Dão broaden out with time. Give this powerful effort at wood flavors show the youth of this complex wine. Then 82 region without expressing the richer fruit side. It has least four years. Amara Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. it fills out in the mouth with an explosive blackberry fla- tannins, juicy acidity and a tight, severe finish. Suprex —R.V. vor and dense fruit tannins. With its power and flavor International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA intensity, it has firm potential to age over at least five abv: 12.5% Price: $10 years. Winebow. —R.V. Duorum 2010 Colheita (Douro). Richly abv: 14% Price: $70 91 structured and ripe, this has black tannins laced DOURO REDS with dark plum fruit. Its tannins promise aging while its Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Red (Bei- fruit already offers a rounded taste. Keep for 3–4 years. ras). Dark, with dusty tannins and a solid, firm Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da 92 Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. structure, this has a dense character. The black plum Fronteira Grande Escolha (Douro). A vine- 93 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 fruit and intense underlying acidity yield a powerful yard selection is used to make this powerful, super ripe wine. With its opulent flavors, it is as densely packed wine that will age over several years. Winebow. —R.V. Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Franca abv: 14% Price: $20 with fruit as it is with tannins. Balanced and gorgeous, (Douro). An impressive single varietal wine, this is ready to drink now, yet it will age over several 91 this shows notes of spice, black currant and wood, along Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Sen- years. Importo LLC. —R.V. with dark tannins and a firm, dry core. With its acidity hora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional- abv: 15% Price: $60 91 and tannins, this will likely age over several years. M Im- Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). For full review see ports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. page 11. Best Buy. Duorum 2009 Reserva Old Vines (Dou- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 93 ro). This is powerfully impressive, with its firm structure giving great depth to the rich black-cherry and Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Douro). Very Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira plum fruits. Dense and tannic, it needs to age for at least structured and firm, this has dense tannins Touriga Nacional (Beiras). For full review four years. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 91 90 overlaying the black currant fruit. Its dry, solid texture see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $40 ­dominates, yielding an impressive wine that has fine abv: 14% Price: $15 Quinta do Portal 2009 Grande Reser- juicy fruit now and will age well over four years. Evaton, Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Reserva Touri- va (Douro). Always a powerful wine, this has Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 ga Nacional (Beiras). Wood aged, this is still the added benefit of being produced from a fine vin- dominated by its toast character, but shows potential in tage, yielding a hugely dense and concentrated bottling. Wines & Winemakers 2010 Lua Nova its rich black fruits and powerful tannins. Complex and Power comes from the ripe blackberry and black cur- em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Using grapes ageworthy, give it at least four years. Tri-Vin Imports. rant fruit and from the dark, firm tannins. Age this wine 91 sourced from old vines, this is dark and concentrated. —R.V. at least five years. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. It’s dominated at the start by firm, dry tannins, with its abv: 13.5% Price: $NA —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $39 power coming from its dark, brooding fruit and dense Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Tinta Roriz structure. Age for at least four years. Amara Wines (Beiras). Lightweight, with smooth red fruit Quinta do Portal 2009 Reserva (Douro). LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 84 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and acidity, this is soft and round. The berry fruit neatly 93 Still very youthful, this concentrated wine has merges with the gentle tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. structure, deep black-fruit flavors and intense acidity. DFJ Vinhos 2009 Vega (Douro). Smooth abv: 13% Price: $NA Its wood aging offers an extra spice note and a polished and wood-aged, this has a polished texture. surface. Underneath, the wine is dense, needing aging. 90 Fruit flavors of blueberry and red cherry combine with Give it 2–4 years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. DÃO REDS abv: 13.5% Price: $28 the rounded tannins and a spice note to give a rich feel. Full yet elegant, age this for the next two years. Dio- Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta da Garrida Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Reserva (Dão). Full bodied and rich, this has 91 Fronteira Reserva (Douro). Powerful and abv: 13.5% Price: $9 a juicy core followed by firm, minerally tannins and in- 92 ripe, this is loaded with dark black fruit, spice from tense acidity. Wood aging adds complexity to this im- Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Nacional wood aging, licorice and bitter chocolate flavors. It’s im- (Douro). Generous and spicy, this is full of pressively rich, concentrated and dark in both color and 90 seemingly sweet black fruit, balanced by firm tannins

WineMag.com | 17 and juicy acidity. It is concentrated and full, with great DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto (Lisboa). De- depth of flavor. Ready to drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 92 Nacional (Lisboa). For full review see page 85 spite its light touch, this is fruity and full, with abv: 14.5% Price: $45 11. Best Buy. its blackberry fruit dominating the warm spice note and abv: 13% Price: $13 acidity. Soft tannins keep the wine together. Drink now. Quinta do Portal 2009 Frontaria (Douro). Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 This is smooth and ripe, with its tannins round- Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de abv: 11.5% Price: $6 ed within the black fruit flavor. Having aged in French 91 Pancas Selecção do Enólogo (Lisboa). oak, it has a vanilla essence that details the ripe black- This is both fruity and mineral driven, a combination DFJ Vinhos 2010 Brigando (Lisboa). This berry note. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. that gives intense structure surrounded by ripe black 84 is a lightweight, fruity and softly tannic wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 fruit. Chocolate and spice notes come from the wood The red berry flavor is bright and breezy, and the acid- aging. All of the elements come together in a powerful, ity is a dominant feature. Screwcap. Lionstone Interna- Companhia das Quintas 2010 Fronteira full-bodied effort that should age for three years. Im- tional. —R.V. 89 (Douro). A blend of Touriga Nacional and porto LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $10 Touriga Franca, this is a firmly structured wine. It has abv: 14% Price: $16 dense tannins that are balanced with black currant and Vidigal 2010 Reserva (Lisboa). Light and damson fruits. Aromatic and stylish, it should be aged DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante 84 freshly fruity, this has a red berry flavor, with a for at least three years. Importo LLC. —R.V. 91 Bouschet (Lisboa). For full review see page soft spice note and round tannins. There’s an odd toma- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 11. Best Buy. to flavor that creeps in at the end. Screwcap. Frederick abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2009 Paxis (Douro). Big and abv: 12.5% Price: $8 89 fruity, with soft and ripe tannins, this has a Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de strong juicy element, with blackberry juice and spice 89 Pancas Reserva Touriga Nacional (Lis- flavors that combine with the wood aging and lively boa). Portugal’s national grape offers a richly grounded SETUBAL REDS acidity on the finish. It could be aged, but is ready to wine, with dark tannins, black plum fruit and tight acid- José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periqui- drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. ity. The texture is dusty, and the wood aging just show- 89 ta Superyor (Setubal). Made from 100% abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ing through on the finish. Importo LLC. —R.V. Castelão, Periquita Superyro pays homage to the time abv: 13% Price: $30 when Castelão was called Periquita. Aged in new wood, Quinta do Portal 2010 Muras da Vinha this is powerful and intense, with forward yet juicy (Douro). 89 A spice note meshes with the tannins DFJ Vinhos 2009 Casa do Lago Grande tannins. Palm Bay International. —R.V. and black currant acidity in this elegant wine. The fruit 89 Reserva (Lisboa). Profiting from the excep- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA is bright and juicy; the tannins still firm and will likely tional 2009 vintage, this is rich and full bodied, yet it always lend an edge of severity. Age for 2–3 years. M retains elegance. Black fruits dominate the firm tannins, José Maria da Fonseca 2009 Periquita Imports, LLC. —R.V. lending a juicy character to the ripe texture. The finish 87 Reserva (Setubal). This is big and juicy, with abv: 13.5% Price: $10 is suave and fruity. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. extra weight imparted by the wood aging. Its flavors of —R.V. spice and red fruit are laced with acidity. Full bodied Aveleda 2008 Charamba (Douro). Named abv: 13% Price: $10 and forward, this is quite drinkable. Palm Bay Interna- 86 after a Portuguese folk dance, this is a soft, tional. —R.V. fruity wine. It has wood flavors, attractive black currant DFJ Vinhos 2009 Alta Corte (Lisboa). A abv: 13% Price: $16 fruit and acidity that keeps it feeling fresh. Drink now, 87 blend of the unusual Caradoc varietal and Tinta as this is not for aging. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. Roriz, this is ripe, fruity and spicy. It has enough rich José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Periquita abv: 12.5% Price: $NA black fruit to give weight while allowing the acidity and 86 Original (Setubal). Dominated by the local balancing tannins through. It’s enjoyable and ready to Castelão grape, this easy-drinking, fruity wine has soft Vidigal 2010 Red (Douro). With structured drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. tannins, attractive acidity and blackberry fruit. Juicy and 86 and ripe dark-berry fruits, this is a warm wine abv: 13% Price: $9 soft, this is a classic barbecue wine. Palm Bay Interna- that has a good mineral edge. Fine tannins give a sense tional. —R.V. of shape to the rich fruit flavors. Drink now or age for Caves Bonifacio 2009 Alicante Bouschet abv: 13% Price: $NA 2–3 years. Screwcap. Lion Importers and Distributors. 86 (Lisboa). Dark colored, this has fresh red-ber- —R.V. ry and damson fruits. With soft tannins, this is a bright, abv: 13% Price: $13 fruity wine for drinking now. HGC Imports. Best Buy. TEJO REDS —R.V. Caves Aliança 2011 Foral (Douro). Falua 2010 Conde de Vimioso (Tejo). Spice abv: 13% Price: $10 85 and red plum flavors dominate this fruity, for- 89 Complex and dense, this has a dry, firmly tan- ward effort. It has some tannins, but they seem lost in nic structure, with rich black-fruit and dark chocolate Caves Bonifacio 2009 Aragonez (Lis- flavors. Spice and wood notes surface on the finish. Aidil the wine’s easy character. For drinking over the next two 86 boa). Fruity, juicy and packed with red berry years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. fruit, this is an attractive, easy-drinking wine. It is rich, abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA with good dense flavors that are balanced by raspberry- like acidity on the finish. Grand Pere Wines. Best Buy. Wines & Winemakers 2010 Compan- LISBOA REDS —R.V. 88 hia das Lezírias Samora (Tejo). This is a abv: 14% Price: $10 dark wine, with an intense, dry structure and seeming- Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de ly sweet fruit. It has a dense herb flavor, with notes of 93 Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). This is beautiful, DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Winemaker’s black plum, spice and bitter chocolate. Keep for a year. with smooth, polished tannins and a spice note from the 86 Selection (Lisboa). Ripe red fruits dominate Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. wood aging. It is layered with black plum, chocolate and this warm, round wine. The light touch of acidity makes abv: 13.5% Price: $NA licorice flavors, along with structure. The fruit is rich the fruit seem forward and bright, yet the core remains and likely to come forward in the next 3–4 years. Im- rich and smooth. Its soft tannins make this ready to Wines & Winemakers 2008 Companhia porto LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 das Lezírias (Tejo). Big and spicy, this has abv: 13.8% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $7 notes of ripe black fruit and raisin, with a tarry edge and

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 smooth tannins. It has an intense structure and a dry anced. Like all LBVs, it can be consumed now, but it fruit flavors. The finish is short and light. Wein-Bauer, core, with a spice note and a touch of pepper from the can also age over several years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. alcohol. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Burmester 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Maximo 2011 Viura (Vino de la Tierra de 87 Port. Showing just the right amount of age, this 85 Castilla). Aromas of hay and sweet grass are OTHER RED WINES is a rich Port, with flavors of dried fruit and damson. Its offset by notes of apple and melon. It feels healthy and Caves Bonifacio 2009 Património (Tor- tannins and firm character fit smoothly into the round easy, with white peach, nectarine and apple flavors. It’s texture. Ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. good and uncomplicated, with a touch of corn flavor on res Vedras). Ripe and smooth, this has an at- 88 —R.V. the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. tractive balance of blackberry flavor and spicy tannins, abv: 20% Price: $NA —M.S. with a juicy character that makes it seem richly fruity. abv: 12% Price: $10 It could age for 1–2 years, but it’s drinkable now. HGC Imports. —R.V. SPAIN Luna Beberide 2010 Godello (Bierzo). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 84 The waxy apple aroma seems cidery and a touch Adega de Monção 2011 Tinto (Vinho WHITE WINES oxidized given how young the wine is. It feels flat and basic, with apricot and peach flavors, and a waxy bit- Verde). This lightly sparkling red is earthy and 85 Viña Costeira 2011 Blanco (Ribeiro). The terness to the palate. The finish tastes stalky, like hay or tensely acidic. With its red currant fruit, mouth-filling 88 aromas of orange and mineral are uncomplicat- straw. Only 250 cases made. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. acidity and tight tannins, this is meant to pair with oily ed and friendly. It feels pure and offers good flow, with abv: 13.5% Price: $22 foods—especially fish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. apple, lime, mineral, white pepper and anise flavors. abv: 11% Price: $NA Fruity, dry and composed on the finish, this is great Agustín Cubero 2011 Unus Old Vine Ma- wine for patio sipping or pairing with seafood. Luxe cabeo (Calatayud). Caves Aliança 2011 Terra Boa (Trans- 83 Oily on the nose, this Vintages. —M.S. has a distinct whiff of matchstick and popcorn. It feels montanas). From the far northeast region of 85 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 dry—like almond skins—with oily flavors of walnuts and Tras-os-Montes, this is an attractively fruity wine. It has white fruits. The finish is marked with a mild bitterness a core of tannins that are a fine complement to the blue- Bodegas Pirineos 2010 Selección Me- as well. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. berry and damson fruits. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 87 sache Blanco Macabeo-Gewürztramin- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $NA er (). While it’s golden in color, the wine isn’t oaky or over the hill. Scents of buttercup, honey- Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Blanco (Rioja). Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Tinto (Por- suckle, baked apple and melon lead to a round, almost Quiet on the bouquet, this offers aromas and tuguese Table Wine). Light and stalky, this 83 84 Burgundian-like mouthfeel. The flavors of melon, apple flavors of a wine that’s in the early stages of decline. has black currant fruit and considerable acidity. With its and peach are solid, and the finish is naturally creamy It feels mildly oxidized and tastes of hollow fruit and soft tannins and fruity character, it is ready to drink now. from the 50% Gewürztraminer in the blend—Macabeo yeasty vanilla. The finish is mild, with a note of hay. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. comprises the other 50%. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $NA Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 PORT Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja). Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2010 Cas- 87 For full review see page 12. Best Buy. 82 ta Diva Cosecha Dorada Dry Muscat Quinta do Portal 2009 Vintage Port. Deep abv: 12.5% Price: $9 (Alicante-Marina Alta). The mildly floral nose leads 92 and dark, this has powerful herb and spice fla- to a lean and acidic palate, with flavors of lemon and vors alongside the concentrated tannins and notes of El Circulo 2011 Blanco (Rioja). Green ba- green apple. Classical Wines. —M.S. ripe black fruits and raisins. This has impressive density 86 nana, apple and mineral aromas are nothing to abv: 12% Price: $19 and is still youthful, demonstrating fine aging potential. get worked up over, but they are clean and inviting. This M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. shows good acidity and lift on the palate, with pleasant Dominio de Punctum 2010 Lobetia Made abv: 20% Price: $70 flavors of citrus, nectarine and apple. It’s crisp and clean 81 with Organic Grapes Viognier (Vino de la on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Tierra de Castilla). This smells like applesauce and Cálem NV 10-Years Old White Port. Ap- abv: 12.5% Price: $9 pear, feeling tight as a drum on the palate, with sharp 91 proaching tawny in color, this is a mature white nectarine and apricot flavors. It’s tart and crimped on Port. It has a wood-aged tang, with spice and toast fla- El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). For full review the finish. Terroir Wine Cellars. —M.S. vors that have given the wine an old gold feel. The sur- 86 see page 12. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 face is sweet, yet there is an underlying dryness. Sogevi- abv: 12% Price: $11 nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. Vermador 2010 White Wine Made with abv: 20% Price: $NA Enrique Mendoza 2010 Moscatel de la 81 Organic Grapes (Alicante). The nose smells 86 Marina (Alicante). Hard and capped on the flat, with a scant scent of peach. It feels acidic and lacks Barros NV 20-Years Old Tawny Port. This nose, this has mixed aromas of plastic, sulfur and white body, with flavors of sour apple, dried papaya and bit- 90 is rich, with an old wood feel and a sweet, still- fruit. It feels creamy and tropical, with flavors of man- ter almond. A blend of 50% Macabeo and 50% Airen. fruity character. With its acid balance, this is fresh, go, banana and honey, with some bitterness on the back Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. round and perfumed. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. palate and finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10 —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $19 abv: 20% Price: $NA Marqués de Caro 2011 Blanco (Valen- VINTAGE CAVA Quinta do Portal 2007 Late Bottled Vin- 86 cia). Here’s a floral-smelling, light-style mix of Raventós I Blanc 2009 de Nit (Cava). This tage Port. Rich and fruity, this is rounded as Moscatel and Macabeo that will function best as a quaff- 89 has a pretty light color, with dry raspberry and well as concentrated. It’s on the sweet side, yet its acid- ing wine. It smells of acacia and orange blossom, show- 92 citrus scents. The palate is pure and elegant, with tan- ity and blend of black and dried fruits are finely bal- ing modest weight and acidity, with citrus and tropical gerine, grapefruit and nectarine flavors. This finishes

WineMag.com | 19 longer than most, with poise and grace. Valkyrie Selec- little green, grassy and herbal, with a lettuce-like note. sweet tasting but not cloying, with orange and mango tions. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Eric Solomon Selections. —M.S. fruit and a finish stocked with enlivening acidity. Freix- abv: 12% Price: $26 abv: 12% Price: $24 enet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9 Sonim 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Substan- 90 tive, with complexities on the bouquet, this has NONVINTAGE CAVA Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut (Cava). a lemon-lime aroma that is dry, chiseled and friendly. It This is flowery and open on the nose, but then Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). For 86 feels tangy, citrusy and crisp, with tangerine and lemon it flattens out in the mouth, with mild cut and an easy 88 full review see page 11. Best Buy. as the key flavors. This is fresh and focused from start to abv: 12% Price: $12 bead. It tastes of soft apple and peach, while the finish finish. The addition of 15% Chardonnay brings it up a fruity and satisfying. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. notch. Aviva Vino. —M.S. Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $17 88 (Cava). For full review see page 9. abv: 11.5% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $18 Mont Marçal 2009 Rosado Brut (Cava). Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Brut 89 This gets going with clean, light cherry and ber- La Xarmada NV Heretat de Sangenis Brut 86 (Cava). Apple and stone fruit aromas come ry aromas that bring a citrus note to the fore. It feels 88 Nature (Cava). Toasty and a touch oily on with a mineral component and a stalky, hay note. It feels crisp, dry and pure, with citrus, plum and dust flavors. the nose, this has green fruit aromas of lime and kiwi. good and full, showing classic Cava flavors of stalky ap- An elegant rosé made from the Trepat grape, it finishes It shows crisp tartness on the palate, with a touch of ple and nectarine. The finish is smooth and easygoing. dry and spicy, with ample leftover fruit. Classical Wines. grapefruit and core flavors of nectarine and orange. It’s Freixenet USA. —M.S. —M.S. dry on the quick finish, with a touch of almond skin. abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 11.5% Price: $18 ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien abv: 11.5% Price: $22 Sumarroca 2009 Brut Reserva (Cava). 86 Brut Macabeo-Chardonnay (Cava). Aro- 89 What a difference a year makes: 2008 yielded Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). For full review see mas and peach, apple and a spot of hay make for a nice, a fine wine, but the warmer 2009 vintage has produced 88 page 12. Best Buy. clean and familiar bouquet. It feels fresh and easy, with a classic Cava with pretty aromas of apples and fresh abv: 11.5% Price: $11 tangerine, nectarine and spiced apple flavors. Crisp, green herbs. It feels chiseled and tight, with a mix of solid and quick on the finish, this is clean overall. Ameri- green apple, peach and nectarine flavors. Smooth and Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut Rosé can Northwest Distributors Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. easy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 88 (Cava). Dry, toasty and composed up front, abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 11.5% Price: $22 this has a nice palate set straight by proper acidity and base structure. Citrus and brown sugar flavors feature a Vilarnau NV Brut (Cava). The nose is de- Agustí Torelló Mata 2008 Brut Reserva note of orange rind, and it stays fresh and citrusy on the 86 fined by white fruit aromas, while the palate is a 88 (Cava). This leans a little green and soda-like finish. Made from Trepat. ENYE Distribution Group, bit flat in feel but lively enough. It tastes of papaya and on the nose, but it picks up clarity and speed on the pal- LLC. —M.S. peach, with a touch of green herb. San Francisco Wine ate, which carries a tangy, citric snap. It tastes of citrus abv: 11.5% Price: $16 Exchange. —M.S. and lees, and the finish is medium in length and healthy. abv: 11.5% Price: $16 Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava). abv: 11.5% Price: $21 88 For full review see page 12. Best Buy. Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Brut (Cava). abv: 12% Price: $10 85 Dry, crisp and nice, this has white fruit aromas Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Aliguer Brut that are familiar and friendly. It comes across medium 87 Vintage (Cava). This is a little wayward and Bodegas Solo Privee NV Cava. Lemon, bodied, dusty and yeasty, with an apple accent and a funky on the nose, with a lightly pickled aroma. It’s a 87 lime, apple and nectarine aromas are regular vanilla flavor. The finish is lightly toasted and slightly forward Cava with a yeasty, creamy feel. Its acidity and and clean. It feels good, citrusy and just round enough, briny. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. proper bubbles set up flavors of pastry, powdered sug- with passion fruit, grapefruit and orange flavors. Tasty abv: 12% Price: $9 ar and sweet apple. The finish is quick, ending with a and fresh, this works well as a refresher. Classic Wines, white-pepper flavor. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. Inc. —M.S. Maria Casanovas NV Glaç Brut Nature abv: 11.5% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $13 85 (Cava). Crisp white-fruit aromas come with a touch of green grass. It feels regular, with briny lime Mont Marçal 2008 Brut Reserva (Cava). Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Brut 150 and tart apple flavors. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 87 The nectarine and mild vanilla aromas are sub- 87 años (Cava). Freixenet’s signature Cava abv: 11.5% Price: $30 dued yet solid. On the palate, it’s all about stone fruit is consistent and pure as usual, with aromas of white flavors, such as peach and nectarine, with apple and ci- fruit and white pepper and an overall freshness on the Segura Viudas NV Brut Rosé (Cava). der notes on the balanced and healthy finish. Classical nose. It feels crisp and focused, with a foamy palate that 85 Clean, dry and light on the nose, this has a Wines. —M.S. brings apple, lime, peach and spice flavors. The finish is smoky, leafy accent. While it’s not superlively on the abv: 11.5% Price: $15 smooth. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. palate, it offers nice grapefruit, cherry and nectarine fla- abv: 12% Price: $12 vors, with a dry, smoky and tasty finish. Freixenet USA. Vilarnau 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Apple, Best Buy. —M.S. 86 mineral and light yeast notes define the bou- Freixenet NV Elyssia Brut Pinot Noir abv: 12% Price: $10 quet. It feels snappy and zesty, with a mix of pickled cit- 86 (Cava). Creamsicle aromas have a dry tea note, rus, fresh sauerkraut and lemon flavors. This is cleans- and overall this tastes like Pinot Noir. It feels foamy and Vilarnau NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Orange and ing and tangy on the tail end, with a briny finish. San soft, with flavors of tea leaf, orange and cherry. The fin- 85 nectarine aromas carry the nose to a wide, fairly Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. ish is rooty tasting and mild. Freixenet USA. —M.S. acidic palate that still manages to fall a little flat in terms abv: 11.5% Price: $18 abv: 11.5% Price: $18 of character. Mid-tier notes of orange and stone fruit set up a finish with similar flavors. San Francisco Wine Gramona 2008 Gran Cuvee Brut (Cava). Freixenet NV Spumante (Cava). Light, Exchange. —M.S. 85 This smells yeasty and flat, with a heavy, bready 86 powdery, sweet and citrusy on the nose, this abv: 12% Price: $18 quality. The palate feels heady and plump, with a mealy becomes fairly creamy on the palate. It’s aggressively citrus flavor and a lot of foam on the palate. It finishes a

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Berberana NV Gran Tradición Brut fruit, chocolate, toast and spice flavors. Blackened as The finish remains fruity and firm. Winery Exchange. 83 (Cava). This smells like barbecue and Eastern well on the finish, with mint and toast. Hold until 2015. —M.S. European oak. It feels flat and static, with woody res- Enotrends LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 in and savory flavors to go with notes of nectarine and abv: 15% Price: $65 white grape. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Castillo de abv: 11.5% Price: $12 Luna Beberide 2009 Finca la Cuesta 85 Fuendejalon Crianza (Campo de Borja). 89 Mencía (Bierzo). Floral plum and blueberry This opens with lightly perfumed red-fruit aromas of Loxarel NV 999 Brut Nature Rosé (Cava). aromas are exotic and interesting as opposed to heavy raspberry and plum, with a bright palate that shows 82 An idiosyncratic wine, offering a yeasty orange and oaky. Shows rubbery tannins and a wide mouthfeel mostly red plum, raspberry and cherry flavors. This is a marmalade aroma followed by a razor-sharp palate with in front of roasted berry and plum flavors. Savory on the basic, clean wine comprised of 75% Garnacha and 25% sour citrus and apricot flavors. It’s grating and citric back end, with an oak character that’s not too demand- Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. on the finish, with a yeasty offset. Classic Wines, Inc. ing. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Luna Beberide 2009 Art Mencía (Bierzo). Coto de Hayas 2008 Crianza (Campo de Mas Fi NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Heavy and 88 Meaty, dense, savory and extremely oaky and 84 Borja). This is a dark specimen, with black- 82 dark in color, this is stalky on the nose, with a dark on the nose. Feels tannic and tough, with intensity fruit and raisiny aromas that turn herbal with time. It compost component that doesn’t scream “fresh and to spare and tons of black-fruit flavor that turns more has rubbery tannins and flavors of plum and herb. Good as a whole but sort of squeeky and hard in feel. A blend ready.” It feels fairly snappy, but it tastes tart and slight- toasted, roasted and barbecued as the wine unfolds. of 60% Garnacha and 40% Tempranillo. Scoperta Im- ly vegetal before finishing with rhubarb flavors. Wine- Finishes with burnt meat and mint flavors along with sellers Ltd. —M.S. porting Co. Inc. —M.S. grinding tannins. Needs another 3 or 4 years, and even abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 then it may not be a soft, friendly Mencía. Grapes of Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55 80 Brut Rosé (Cava). Salmon in color, this is EMPORDÀ pulpy and perfumed on the nose, with an artificial lean- Peique 2010 Tinto Mencía (Bierzo). Plum Oliver Conti 2009 Turó Negre (Empordà). ing. Overly foamy on the palate, this has a bitter, herbal 86 and raspberry aromas turn herbal with airing. 89 Leather and smoky berry aromas lead to a lively, flavor. American Northwest Distributors Inc. —M.S. racy palate that’s tight, crisp and traditional in feel. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 Feels good and plump, with restrained tannins. Tastes like roasted red berries, dry oak and leather mixed with The plum, berry and earth flavors are old school— leafy herbs. Good but loses some clarity as it breathes. more elegant and restrained than pushy and forward. ROSADOS Steve Miles Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. Long and chiseled on the finish, this is a blend of five abv: 14% Price: $10 grapes including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Garnacha Ro- Grenache. Winebow. —M.S. 83 sado (Rioja). The candied red-fruit aroma is V&N Cellars 2009 Mencía (Bierzo). A Bar- abv: 14% Price: $50 soft yet snappy. It tastes briny and citrusy before ending 86 celona-based brand with this Bierzo label that’s with a persistent peppery bitterness and lively acidity. good, with generic red-fruit aromas and cheesy smelling Oliver Conti 2009 Ara (Empordà). Cherry CIV/USA. —M.S. oak. Feels light, snappy and feminine, with spicy, resiny 88 cough drop, raspberry and minerally aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $9 flavors along with tart raspberry and tomato. Ends settle on the nose. This four-grape blend shows a lively palate that’s dry and crisp in feel, with raspberry, plum abruptly. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Conde de and red pepper flavors that lead to a tight finish that pe- abv: 13% Price: $18 81 Valdemar Tempranillo-Garnacha Rosado ters out quickly. Winebow. —M.S. (Rioja). Twizzler and other red candy aromas lead to a abv: 13.5% Price: $20 creamy feeling yet acidic palate that tastes like raspber- CAMPO DE BORJA ry extract. Sharp acidity prevents what would otherwise Oliver Conti 2008 Carlota (Empordà). be a cloying wine. CIV/USA. —M.S. Coto de Hayas 2010 Roble Tempranillo- 84 Imagine all of the scents you associate with a abv: 13.5% Price: $10 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Campo de Borja). Margherita pizza and that’s what this wine smells like. Briary red-fruit aromas are forward and attractive. Feels The nose is leafy and full of oregano, basil and leather Bodegas del Mundo 2011 Valdemoreda juicy, with good acidic cut and ample body. Flavors of notes, while the flavor profile is pure tomato sauce, herb 80 Garnacha Rosado (Rioja). Strawberry and dark plum and berry come with hints of crushed herbs and spice. A blend of 75% Cabernet Franc and 25% raspberry aromas set up a reedy, flush palate with stem- and dry spices. Finishes bold, with peppery spice and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Winebow. —M.S. my, candied strawberry flavors. Turns green and bitter pinch of heat. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 JUMILLA Peñascal 2011 Tempranillo Rosado (Vino Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Mósen Cleto Bodegas Carchelo 2009 Sierva (Jumilla). de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Loud cit- 80 86 Crianza (Campo de Borja). Brambly red- Big and lush, this has graphite, coconut, minty rus and berry aromas precede an overloaded palate that 91 fruit aromas mix with notes of sweet milk chocolate and oak and huge berry fruit aromas. It’s plush in the mouth carries stalky plum flavors. Pickled tasting on the finish. dust. It feels crisp, tight and fresh, with raspberry and but not wayward or overly big, with roasted plum, HAB North America. —M.S. lightly herbal plum flavors. This finishes taut and fruity. ­molasses, leather and raspberry flavors and a forward abv: 12.5% Price: $9 A blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. Scop- barrel note. Savory and long on the finish, this is a blend erta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. of 40% Monastrell, 30% Tempranillo and 15% each BIERZO abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Syrah and Cabernet. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Demencia de Autor 2008 Demencia El Pensador 2010 Tempranillo (Campo 91 Mencía (Bierzo). Dark, compact and black, 86 de Borja). Snappy cherry and berry aromas Bodegas Carchelo 2010 C (Jumilla). Fo- with graphite and growling blackberry aromas. Feels have the slightest accent of mint and grass. It feels fresh, 89 cused and fresh, this has aromas of berry and tight and drawing but serious and structured, with black forward and tight, with plum and spicy berry flavors. integrated citrus. It feels rubbery and lush, with acidic

WineMag.com | 21 cut and roasted flavors of plum, blackberry and leather. Bula 2009 Montsant. This is brambly, stalky or too much extraction. It feels pure and elegant, with It finishes mildly roasted and earthy, with a leathery last- 83 and baked on the nose, and the palate is wide, wild berry and cherry flavors that end on a ripe, slightly ing impression. Classical Wines. —M.S. tannic and scratchy. The flavor profile is all roasted sweet-tasting finish. Good for near-term drinking. The abv: 14% Price: $15 plum, bacon and herb accents, finishing stalky and sa- Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. vory. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24 Bodegas Luzón 2008 Luzón Crianza (Ju- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 87 milla). Hard and capped on the nose, this has La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2007 Iugiter (Pri- hints of cement, cheesy oak, minty fruit and tobacco. 91 orat). Black fruit, heavy oak, tobacco and min- Savory and roasted on the palate, with a blend of Mar- NAVARRA eral aromas are welcoming on this ripped Priorat.It’s full sala and mushroom as well as saline, baked berry and bodied, holding onto its schisty character via berry fruit Ochoa 2004 Single Vineyard Reserva ham notes. The finish is savory in a natural, nongreen and mineral flavors. Additional oak, vanilla and mint Tempranillo (Navarra). Hard, crusty leather way. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 89 flavors rise up on the finish, but there’s plenty of plum is the opening aroma, then a touch of tar gives way to abv: 14.5% Price: $15 and cherry notes below the surface. 500 cases made. notes of tobacco, latent oak and perfumed, mature fruit. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. It feels full, grabby and on the cusp of being syrupy, Las Hermanas 2010 Joven Monastrell- abv: 15% Price: $35 with roasted berry and spice flavors. It shows an herbal, Syrah (Jumilla). This has an earthy nose, but 87 hot side on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. airing helps this Monastrell-Syrah blend move beyond Mas Igneus 2009 Barranc dels Closos abv: 14% Price: $32 the leathery, warm notes. It feels full yet balanced, with 91 (Priorat). This is deep and fruity up front, with roasted, savory flavors of stewed plum and grilled meat. blackberry and cola aromas that come with creamy oak Bodegas Corellanas 2006 Viña Rubican It’s warm, with a dose of molasses on the finish. Well- and offsetting minerality. Full and jammy on the palate, Crianza Tempranillo (Navarra). Aromas Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. 87 with flavors of blackberry, fine herbs and lightly applied of root beer, autumn leaves, leather and raisins indi- abv: 14% Price: $13 molasses. Round and concentrated on the finish. Drink cate ripeness more than heavyness. It shows lots of life now through 2016. Opici Wines. —M.S. and kick on the palate, where the flavors run toasty and Bodegas Luzón 2010 Luzón Monastrell- abv: 15% Price: $25 rooty, with a hint of brown sugar. Peppy acidity keeps it Syrah (Jumilla). This is leathery and stemmy 83 lively and traditional through the finish. Deutsch Fam- on the nose, with horsey plum and raspberry aromas. Marco Abella 2007 Mas Mallola (Priorat). ily Wine & Spirits. —M.S. It feels narrow, with rubbery, herbal and roasted berry The rose petal and kirsch aromas are easy to abv: 13% Price: $14 90 flavors. This is a rustic, roasted wine no matter how you like, with notes of tobacco and smoky earth in the mix. slice it. Aviva Vino. —M.S. It feels good, easygoing and mature, with raspberry, Ochoa 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (Navar- abv: 14% Price: $9 cherry and spice flavors. Cool, collected and mature as a ra). This smells nice and rooty, and also a bit 86 whole, this is ready now. Vinea Imports. —M.S. like strawberry jam. It feels steely, zesty, juicy and al- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 MONTSANT most too acidic, with blazing red plum and pie cherry flavors that are offset by integrated, spicy oak. It’s dry Nita 2010 Priorat. A touch scratchy on the Aloja 2010 Montsant. Jammy berry, light and tangy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. bouquet, with a red berry aroma and a wild herb mint and herb notes carry a jumpy nose to a pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 89 88 note. It feels fresh and decidedly “red” in style, with ate that has oak-infused plum, raspberry and light herb red plum and red currant flavors. More easygoing than flavors. It finishes mostly calm and collected, but also a Vega Sindoa 2010 Tempranillo (Navarra). brooding, this finishes light. Drink now through 2015. touch racy, with a pastry flavor. Novo Imports. —M.S. Dark plum and berry aromas come with a touch 86 Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 of rubber. It feels bright, healthy and juicy, with good abv: 14.5% Price: $25 body and earthy berry and dark plum flavors. While it’s Mas Sorrer 2010 Montsant. Roasted plum, not complicated, it’s accurate and flavorful. Fine Estates Bodegas La Cartuja 2009 Priorat. An oaky baked berry and jammy aromas can’t be missed, From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 style of Priorat, this smells of hickory and camp- but it’s structured and not at all soft in the mouth, with abv: 14% Price: $8 87 fire, with bacon, plum and cherry notes. Solid but nar- wild berry, cherry and boysenberry flavors. It really row in the mouth, with berry and cherry flavors mixed pours on the fruit, ending fresh with no nonsense. Do- Castillo de Monjardin 2010 Tintico Tem- with hard spice and chocolate notes. It has just enough maine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. pranillo (Navarra). Cherry is the prime fruit 85 acidity to stay fresh, turning slightly fiery on the finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 aroma, and overall the nose is rubbery and edgy. Feels Ole Imports. —M.S. squeeky and tannic, with plum and red berry flavors abv: 15% Price: $15 Celler Dosterras 2009 Vespres (Mont- leading to a fresh but raw feeling and a peppery-tasting sant). This is dense and saturated, with crushed finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 Mas La Mola 2007 Priorat. This smells rub- blackberry and plum aromas that turn more jammy and abv: 13% Price: $8 bery, like a tire, before the berry and plum aro- granular as the wine breathes. It’s extracted and heavy 87 mas settle in—although it remains a bit like pastic in on the palate, with candied black plum and berry flavors scent. It feels tight and balanced, with acidity pushing that lose steam on the finish. This could be too heavy PRIORAT flavors of plum, strawberry and mineral. This is crisp, for fans of leaner-bodied wines. Classical Wines. —M.S. Cims de Porrera 2005 Clássic Carignan abv: 14% Price: $28 juicy and more acidic than weighty on the finish. Para- 93 (Priorat). Modern and bulky, this has a lot of dor Selections, LLC. —M.S. great things going on. It opens with aromas of miner- Cellers Unió 2009 Perlat (Montsant). Plum abv: 14.5% Price: $40 al, graphite, sage and bold berry, with chewy, roasted and berry aromas get a strong assist from notes 87 black-fruit flavors. It’s long, compact, chocolaty and Ferré I Catasús 2008 Terra de Fic 1 (Prio- of mint and licorice on the nose. Lively and packed on spicy on the finish. Still not mature but it’s drinkable— rat). Baked and heavy, this has prune, raisin and the palate, it’s acidic and lean, even more so as it un- 85 best from 2014 and on. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Edi- jammy berry aromas. The weightiness carries onto the winds and breathes. Flavors of baked red plum and tors’ Choice. —M.S. palate, which is chewy and smooth. Flavors of blackber- mocha are followed by a balsamic-tasting finish. Mon- abv: 14.5% Price: $89 ry, spice and jammy syrup lead to a finish with a choco- sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16 laty tone. Tasted twice, with consistent results. M Im- Clos Gebrat 2010 Priorat. Fresh, floral and ports, LLC. —M.S. 92 not overbearing on the nose, this has red ber- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ry and cassis aromas, with no interference from oak

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 stalky as it airs out. But overall it’s firm on the palate, and wood smoke emerge. It has a nice full body and a RIBERA DEL DUERO with roasted, oak-influenced flavors of savory berry and few levels of texture, while the wine’s dark plum and Garcia Figuero 2006 Vendimia Seleccio- saline. Full on the finish, with healthy but not overly ag- berry flavors are generously spiced. This is composed, 94 nada (Ribera del Duero). This is incredibly gressive tannic bite. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. full and grabby on the finish. Drink now through 2018. inviting on the bouquet due to aromas of leather, raisin, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Quintessential Wines. —M.S. tea and mocha. It feels lifted, benefiting from the su- abv: 13.8% Price: $69 perb structure and tannins, while the flavors of leathery Rios de Tinta 2010 Ribera del Duero. This berry, coffee, toast and chocolate are outstanding. This 87 smells bullish and chunky, with a lively, acid- Telmo Rodríguez 2010 LZ (Rioja). Black- is pure, deep, elegant and impeccably balanced Tem- driven palate that boasts cherry, dark plum and cocoa 87 fruit aromas are forceful, toasty and gritty. It pranillo. Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines. Edi- flavors. It feels drawing and full of vitality, so serve this feels solid, fruity and full bodied, with black fruit flavors tors’ Choice. —M.S. with food or allow it to breathe. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. that come across ripe and generous. It’s oaky but not abv: 14.5% Price: $69 abv: 14% Price: $14 overly so. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Alidis 2007 Expresión (Ribera del Duero). Emilio Moro 2010 Finca Resalso (Ribera 93 Rooty and earthy smelling, this has aromas of 86 del Duero). Aromas of minty oak, pastry and Bodegas Riojanas 2008 Puerta Vieja leather, cassis, tobacco, dried cheese and cola. It feels jammy raspberry set up a palate that’s racy, juicy and 86 Crianza (Rioja). Plum and berry aromas are rich and nicely textured, with firm but friendly tannins somewhat raw feeling, with plum and raspberry flavors. a touch rubbery at first, but they air out well. It feels that set up tobacco, coffee, mocha and roasted berry It’s woody on the finish, with a spice flavor. Multiple medium bodied and clean, with traditional Rioja flavors flavors. It’s chocolaty in an uncanny way on the finish. U.S. importers. —M.S. of dry oak, dill, tobacco, plum and cherry. The finish is Drink now through 2018. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Edi- abv: NA Price: $17 mild and fresh. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $70 Finca El Encinal 2009 Single Vineyard 86 Roble (Ribera del Duero). Standard berry Bodegas Valdemar 2008 Conde de Valde- Montecastro 2007 y Llanahermosa aromas show touches of raisin and earth, but not too 85 mar Crianza (Rioja). This is fruity but simple 91 (Ribera del Duero). This is dark and tarry at much of either. It feels fresh, crisp and alert, with cher- on the nose, with plum and cherry aromas. It feels jam- ry tomato, berry fruit, tobacco and vanilla flavors. This first, with aromas of freshly laid asphalt, pepper, fine my and a touch muddled, with boysenberry, plum and feels healthy but not real deep or complex on the finish. herbs, burnt toast and roasted berry. This feels racy, blackberry flavors but not much oak character. It’s grip- Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. healthy and balanced, with a creamy quality to the pal- py on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ate. It tastes natural and correct, with plum, berry, va- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 nilla and spice flavors. On the finish, it’s smooth with Martín Berdugo 2010 Joven (Ribera del a strong oak-based vanilla flavor. Drink now through Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rioja. The nose is Duero). At first the nose is high toned and 2012. Classic Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. 85 big and rubbery, with aromas of bacon, tar and jumpy, but with time it falls into a good place with a me- 85 abv: 14% Price: $45 black plum. It feels young and choppy, with a lightly dicinal berry note at the fore. Solid, tannic and nervy, it herbal berry flavor that turn more roasted in character has plum and noticeable young-oak flavors. This turns Telmo Rodríguez 2006 M2 de Matallana as the wine opens. This gets the job done despite show- herbal tasting and choppy on the finish. Puerto Viejo 90 (Ribera del Duero). After a leafy, somewhat ing a roasted flavor throughout. Devo Enterprises Cor- burnt opening that seems muddled, things fall into Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11 poration. Best Buy. —M.S. place. The palate has a chewy, tannic, staunch feel that abv: 14% Price: $10 frames earthy berry, mocha, brown sugar and stewed Convento Oreja 2010 Roble (Ribera del plum flavors. It gets better and better as it unfolds, J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempra- Duero). Jumpy and nervy smelling, with totter- with prune and kirsch notes on the finish. Vintus LLC. 84 nillo (Rioja). ing aromas of jammy berry and strawberry. It feels di- 84 For full review see page 13. Best —M.S. Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 lute at first, but more structure and body appear as the wine unfolds. The flavor of jammy raspberry is some- abv: 13.5% Price: $6 what herbal, and the finish is light. Kysela Père et Fils. Peñalba Herraiz 2009 Aptus (Ribera del Viña Palaciega 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Bri- 89 Duero). Dark in color, this has an inviting mix —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23 84 ary berry and milk chocolate aromas lead to of herb, spice, black plum and roasted berry aromas. It a tart, alert palate full of red berry, sour plum, vanilla shows good balance and saturation across the palate, Matiz 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). and spice flavors. Juicy acidity creates a long, racy fin- with staunch tannins and a creamy feel. Flavors of black This smells a bit like asphalt and peanuts. It feels an- ish that brings lasting raspberry character. Tri-Vin Im- fruits, tobacco and vanilla are generous, while the fin- 84 gular, with plum, berry and pepper flavors. The finish is ports. —M.S. ish is not at all angular, choppy or challenging. Drink spicy, with drying tannins and a lasting leafy flavor. Steve abv: 13% Price: $11 now–2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Miles Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Antaño Tempra- nillo (Rioja). This smells granular and jammy, Matarromera 2001 Gran Reserva (Ribera 83 Viña Vilano 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). yet it feels snappy and dry, with raspberry, red plum, del Duero). Tobacco, brown sugar, dried fruit 87 The nose smells minty and capped with rub- tomato and briny flavors. The finish is fresh and red in and vanilla aromas work the bouquet, which is very 83 bery, blackened aromas. It feels tangy and tannic, with style. CIV/USA. —M.S. nice. In the mouth, however, it’s acidic, almost to the medicinal flavors of berry and resiny oak. It’s powerful abv: 13% Price: $8 point of being citrusy. Flavors of earthy sour plum and but rough. European Wine Imports. —M.S. raspberry are propped up by lasting acids, while the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 palate teeters on lemony and shear. Drink now. Matar- TORO romera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $110 RIOJA Quinola 2008 Toro. This is a serious Toro 92 wine with smooth, dark, leathery aromas along Prado Rey 2009 Adaro de Prado Rey Cri- Marqués de Elciego 2007 Edición Limita- with hints of wintergreen, licorice and berry pastry. It 87 anza (Ribera del Duero). This smells savory 89 da Tempranillo (Rioja). This is black and tar- feels rich and layered, with complex flavors of licorice and roasted, like hickory, before turning earthy and ry on first take, but complex aromas of pine, baked plum gum drop, nutmeg, chocolate and blackberry. Almost

WineMag.com | 23 decadent but not over the top or too tannic. Drink now– lightly herbal and snappy on the finish. Vicente Gandia with blackberry and plum aromas. It feels full and sol- 2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. PLA. —M.S. id, bearing flavors of black cherry and dark plum, with abv: 15% Price: $75 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 a meaty undertone. Mint, spice and black fruit notes carry the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. François Lurton 2008 Campo Alegre Viña Degana 2008 Crianza Tempranillo abv: 14% Price: $26 89 (Toro). Toasty oak and hickory aromas are the 85 Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This is solid primary greeting, with licorice, pastry and blackberry stuff for the price, with berry and pencil eraser aromas. Vicente Gandia 2010 Organic Cabernet notes underneath. It feels saturated and chewy, with It feels more soft than hard, with a jammy mouthfeel 85 Sauvignon (Spain). The tea and raspberry full-scale berry, prune, chocolate and mossy flavors. It’s and grabby tannins in front of berry and plum flavors aromas are easygoing, and that best describes this or- dense on the finish, with smooth tannins and heft. Wi- that turn medicinal. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. ganic Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s powerful enough on the nesellers Ltd. —M.S. —M.S. palate, with a good berry flavor that tilts towards rasp- abv: 15% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $5 berry. The finish is herbal and peppery. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. Bodegas Torreduero 2008 Peñamonte 3 Vicente Gandia 2010 Marqués de Chivé abv: 13.5% Price: $8 86 Meses de Barrica (Toro). After a somewhat 84 Crianza Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This gritty start, the bouquet settles on aromas of perfumed has thin fruit aromas, with scents of herb and candied Terrenal 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ye- red fruit and lemony oak. It feels full, with nice acidic milk chocolate. It’s a solid wine for $8, with zesty acid- 84 cla). This opens with standard cherry and berry cut, offering flavors of leather, earth and savory baked ity and standard raspberry and plum flavors. The light- aromas before transitioning to a juicy palate with red fruit. Fairly long and mildly herbal on the finish. Vintage weight finish turns lightly herbal. Vicente Gandia PLA. berry, plum, herb and grass notes. It finishes a little hot Wines Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Best Buy. —M.S. and aggressive, but for $4 who’s complaining? L. Wat- abv: 14.5% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $8 son, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $4 Bodegas Fariña 2010 Dama de Toro Tem- 85 pranillo (Toro). This smells a bit stalky, leath- OTHER RED WINES Terrenal 2010 Estate Bottled Tempranillo (Yecla). ery and warm at first, but airing brings it along. While Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label 84 Nice on the nose, this has a leafy note it’s never all that vivid on the nose, it does smell of and a mellow red-berry aroma. Bouncy and rubbery Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). For full baked berry and plum. It feels wide and neither tannic 91 feeling, it has easygoing flavors of raspberry and plum. review see page 8. nor tough, with lightly herbal, rustic flavors of plum and abv: 14% Price: $75 It’s candied and rubbery tasting on the finish, but good berry. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. overall. L. Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Anima Negra 2009 ÀN/2 (Vi de la Terra abv: 13.5% Price: $4 Mallorca). This is a unique wine from Mal- Bodegas Fariña 2010 Vino Pr1mero 88 Bodegas del Paramo 2009 El Médico Pri- lorca with light cherry and raspberry aromas. Clampy, (Toro). Call this Toro Nuevo in the same vein eto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 85 dry and tannic on the palate, it’s full of savory, roasted 83 as Beaujolais Nouveau—the grape juice becomes fin- y León). Roasted and rubbery smelling, this has heavy barbecue flavors along with tomato and red fruit notes. ished wine in just six weeks. Look for a jammy nose with oak influence that yields notes of mint and shoe. Shear- Very Mallorcan in that it’s salty and savory from start to licorice and blackberry aromas and a simple palate that ing on the palate despite its body, this has flavors of oak- finish. Winebow. —M.S. pushes plum and berry flavors, with little structure or abv: 13.5% Price: $23 based vanilla, mint and sweet-and-sour plum. Prieto stuffing. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. Picudo is a difficult grape to make into good wine. Clas- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Anima Negra 2007 Àn (Vi de la Terra Mal- sical Wines. —M.S. 88 lorca). Rusty in color, this is loaded with dill, abv: 14% Price: $37 tobacco, lemon peel and spice aromas. It feels chop- Pago de Callejo 2008 Finca Valdelroble UTIEL-REQUENA py and jagged on its own, but will do better with food. (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made Flavors of rooty, roasted berries are savory and baked, 83 smells like a new coat of road tar mixed with black ol- with Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet while the finish is dry and pinched. Drink now–2014. 86 ive tapenade and herb. It feels tannic and clumsy, with Sauvignon-Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). More Winebow. —M.S. herb and stewed-fruit flavors. The cooked finish ends flush and generous than the Vertus 100% Tempranil- abv: 14% Price: $50 with roasted berry and olive notes. The Artisan Collec- lo, this blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Cabernet tion. —M.S. is bold but not heavy, with a medium body and clean, Torres 2008 Gran Coronas Reserva Cab- abv: 14% Price: $50 direct flavors of red berry and plum. It shows dashes of 88 ernet Sauvignon (Penedès). Notes of pepper and spice on the medium-long finish. Natural baked-berry, herb and savory spice come together well Bodegas Fariña 2010 Peromato Tem- Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. on the bouquet. It feels chunky and round but lively, pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y abv: 12.5% Price: $9 with plum and cassis flavors that carry an herbal, toma- 82 León). Rubbery on the nose, this has berry aromas toey shading. This is fresh and herbal enough so that lurking below. On the palate, it feels acidic, with tart Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made you know it’s Old World. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. with Organically Grown Grapes Tempra- abv: 14% Price: $24 raspberry flavors. It’s lean on the finish, with a touch of 85 oak. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. nillo (Utiel-Requena). On the nose, raspberry and abv: 12.5% Price: $10 plum aromas come with a slight brambly note. The pal- Evohé 2010 Viñas Viejas Tempranillo ate is juicy and fresh, with flavors of plum, cherry and a (Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Gállego- 85 Raimat 2007 Castell de Raimat Cabernet touch of spice. This finishes steady, with focused flavors. Cinco Villas). The medicinal plum aroma comes with Sauvignon (Costers del Segre). A tight Natural Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. a note of celery as well as anise and/or licorice. It feels 82 note of spearmint defines the nose. The palate follows abv: 12.5% Price: $9 tight, with rough tannins, then tastes like fresh red ber- suit: It’s pinched and hard, with outsized acidity leading ries and plum. This is a bit edgy and choppy feeling, but to a lemony palate, with searing cherry and red plum Vicente Gandia 2008 Hoya de Cadenas solid for the price. Vinum International. —M.S. Reserva Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). abv: 14% Price: $12 flavors. It doesn’t waiver on the finish. Aveniù Brands, 85 Inc. —M.S. Earthy, roasted scents sit atop mild cherry and raspber- abv: 14% Price: $10 ry aromas that carry a slight green element. It feels shrill Pardevalles 2008 Gamonal Prieto Picudo but juicy, with red plum and raspberry flavors. It’s mild, 85 (Tierra de León). This is clean on the nose,

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 wine that shows all of its ripe fruit up front. USA Wine strawberry fruit and crisp yet open acidity. Well bal- DESSERT WINES West. —R.V. anced and dry, this would make for a good apéritif. Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 1999 Cas- abv: 14% Price: $NA Screwcap. Bieler Communications. —R.V. 97 ta Diva Fondillón Sweet Monastrell (Ali- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA cante). Fondillón represents the pinnacle of red Span- Triennes 2010 Sainte-Fleur Viognier (Vin ish dessert wines, and the 1999 vintage just might make 87 de Pays Var). This is a smooth, orange- and Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Breezette Rosé (Côtes de Provence). your jaw drop. Subtle but expansive on the nose, with peach-flavored wine, with a rich almost oily texture. It’s 86 Light, fruity and rounded with light acidity on the finish. With its weight, balanced, this combines acidity, red fruit and a bright a blend of baked dark-fruit and cinnamon aromas, it this is a wine for food. The Sorting Table. —R.V. feel. For drinking over this year. Turquoise Life. —R.V. is liquid heaven in the mouth, with excellent balance abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and flavors of roasted plums, black cherry, nutmeg and chocolate. This is pure, structured and outstanding Château Routas 2010 White (Vin de Pays Vignerons de Correns 2011 Croix de from start to finish. Drink now or hold in a proper cellar 85 Var). Earthy aromas lead to a palate that is full 86 Basson Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full- for another 10 or 20 years. 100 cases made. Classical bodied, with notes of yeast and spice to go with the bodied and ripely fruity, this has attractive strawberry Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. white fruit. It has attractive acidity and a tangy citrusy fruits and a round texture. The acidity adds some fresh- abv: 16% Price: $88/500 ml finish. Screwcap. USA Wine West. —R.V. ness. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Ochoa 2010 Vino Dulce Moscatel (Navar- 92 ra). This smells like orange marmalade. It feels smooth and creamy, but not terribly thick due to fine ROSÉS RED WINES acidity, with flavors of orange, honey, peach and spice. Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Ex- Château Routas 2008 Cyrano Syrah (Vin Long and creamy on the finish, this is a fresh, delicious traordinaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence). de Pays Var). Ripe and rich, this is a concen- wine that should impress anyone with a sweet tooth. 89 90 This is a complex, bone-dry rosé, with red fruit flavor, trated, spicy and perfumed Syrah. It is packed with sweet Frontier Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. tight acidity and a mineral edge. With its weight, it is tannins and juicy blackberry fruit, with a cut of acidity. abv: 12.5% Price: $28/500 ml food friendly, offering a fine counterpoint to spicy dish- Its richness makes it already mature, although it could es. Turquoise Life. —R.V. age for another few years. USA Wine West. —R.V. Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2007 Cas- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 91 ta Diva Recóndita Armonía Sweet Monas- trell (Alicante). Composed and not the least bit pushy Moncigale 2011 Frais et Délicat Rosé Domaine de la Sanglière 2009 Prestige or punishing on the bouquet, this has gorgeous berry 89 (Côtes de Provence). Full in the mouth, this 89 (Côtes de Provence). The aromas are warm and spice aromas. It feels a bit racy and high in acidity, food-friendly, minerally and textured wine has red berry and spicy. On the palate, there is a herbal character but that will only serve the wine well in the long run. fruits that are balanced by a tangy orange-zest charac- along with smooth red plum fruit and a toast note. It Plum and boysenberry flavors lead to a racy, high-acid ter and a dry aftertaste. Grantham Distributing. —R.V. is rich while still preserving a light touch and acidity on finish. Drink now–2020. Classical Wines. Cellar Selec- abv: 13% Price: $NA the finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. tion. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $30/500 ml Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Prestige 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). As pale in color Château Routas 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Costers del Priorat 2007 Dolç de l’Obac as is possible for a rosé, this is bright, crisp and fruity. 88 gnon (Vin de Pays Var). Cabernet Sauvi- 90 (Priorat). This starts out with mustard and It has delicious acidity and red apple and citrus flavors, gnon in Provence seems to evoke the herbal wild-thyme horseradish aromas, but with the chance to breath, it with a burst of red currant on the finish. Misa Imports. character of the countryside. This wine has weight to reveals a dark berry scent. The palate feels tannic and —R.V. its black fruit flavors, with an edge from its tannins and sticky, with flavors of cooked plum, hard spice and abv: 12.5% Price: $18 acidity. It could age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. USA Wine brown sugar. It’s grabby, fiery and full of flavor on the West. —R.V. Moncigale 2011 Frais et Fruité Rosé finish, with a slightly abrasive feel. Spanish Vines, Inc. abv: 13.8% Price: $NA (Côtes de Provence). This is bright and —M.S. 88 fruity, with light, fragrant and poised red fruit. It has Triennes 2008 Saint-August (Vin de Pays abv: 17% Price: $129/500 ml attractive acidity to balance. Grantham Distributing. 87 Var). A ripe and spicy blend of Syrah, Cabernet —R.V. Dehesa el Carrascal 2008 Dulcemar Gar- Sauvignon and Merlot, this has ripe black fruits that are abv: 12.5% Price: $NA nacha (Almansa). Rusty in color, this has a laced with firm, dry tannins. There is a herbal character 88 that gives it an edge. The Sorting Table. —R.V. baked fruit aromas suggestive of raisin, cherry and Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Cuvée abv: 13.5% Price: $20 plum. It’s thick, but it maintains freshness due to the 87 Spéciale Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This solid acidity. This feels heavy, with robust flavors of is a soft wine that is full in the mouth, with a raspberry Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Cuvée roasted plum and blackberry, but the finish isn’t cloying. purée flavor and soft acidity. It’s round with a depth of 85 Spéciale (Côtes de Provence). This is Iberian Wine Importers. —M.S. red fruit flavor and a warm finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. tastes stalky, with a red fruit flavor. It has acidity along abv: 13.5% Price: $25/500 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $15 with a vegetal, herbal character. With taut acidity and a dry, tannic finish, this is a real barbecue wine. Misa Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Rosé Imports. —R.V. PROVENCE 87 (Côtes de Provence). A fresh-faced rosé, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 with a rose-grey color, this has red fruit acidity and an WHITE WINES attractive, creamy character to go with the crisp finish. Turquoise Life. —R.V. SOUTHWEST FRANCE Château Routas 2010 Coquelicot Viog- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 89 nier-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays Var). Smooth and rich, its creamy texture is rounded out with Bieler Père et Fils 2011 Sabine Rosé BERGERAC SEC a toast note. Flavors of peppered apricot and green 86 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Rounded Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Mirabelle plum work well together to give a warm, concentrated and soft, this has a touch of vanilla to go with the sweet 90 de la Jaubertie (Bergerac Sec). This wood-

WineMag.com | 25 aged wine shows equal notes of toasty spice and ripe refreshing citrus. Screwcap. Barton & Guestier USA. fruit. On the palate, it’s full and round, with pear and Best Buy. —R.V. ROSÉS apricot flavors giving it richness. This is concentrated abv: 12% Price: $8 Triennes 2011 Rosé (Vin de Pays Var). and worth aging for another 2–3 years. Bird Rock Im- 88 This is has flavors of apple and red currant, with ports. —R.V. François Lurton 2011 Fumées Blanches a dry, light touch. The acidity cuts through the palate, abv: 13.5% Price: $19 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). giving it an attractive freshness, with a touch of spice This is a pure and herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp, and a crisp finish. The Sorting Table. —R.V. Château de Corbiac 2011 Cyrano de citrus driven and refreshing, it has a clean character and abv: 13% Price: $19 87 Bergerac (Bergerac Sec). This herbaceous a delicious zesty texture that acidity to the fruitiness. wine has a green note, with layers of citrus fruits and an Screwcap. Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Plaisance 2011 Rosé (Fronton). orange zest texture that lends a bright, fruity character. abv: 12% Price: $10 85 This is a smooth, rounded rosé made mainly Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. from Négrette. Along with its youthful crispness, it also abv: 13% Price: $14 Vignobles Drieux 2011 Villa Dria Colom- has a more creamy side and a crushed strawberry fla- 85 bard-Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gas- vor, all lightened by balancing acidity. VOS Selections. Château Bélingard 2011 Bergerac Sec. cogne). Spice and seemingly sweet grapefruit flavors —R.V. 85 Smooth and rounded, this has light acidity, with give this light, lively and crisp wine an attractive fruity abv: 13% Price: $NA citrus and pear flavors and a crisp finish. It needs to age character. It dances easily on the palate, finishing with for a year longer to allow its textured character a chance good tang. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. Château Bélingard 2011 Rosé (Bergerac to smooth out even more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- abv: 11.5% Price: $13 84 Rosé). Soft and ripe, this has a red fruit fla- its. —R.V. vor, with richness and a round texture. There is a touch abv: 13% Price: $13 Cheval Quancard 2011 Domaine de of spice, with a light hint of acidity in the background. Lamothe Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Château de la Jaubertie 2011 Bergerac 84 (Côtes de Gascogne). Fragrant, fresh and fruity, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Sec. Crisp and herbaceous, this has a citrus and 85 this light and bright wine offers an herbal character green fruit character. Already drinkable, it is bright and to go with its citrus and green apple fruits. It is lively fruity, finishing with a citrus tang. Bird Rock Imports. and crisp—a fine apéritif. Screwcap. Cheval Quancard. BERGERAC ROUGE —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 —R.V. Château Bélingard 2009 Cuvée Blanche abv: 11.5% Price: $13 90 de Bosredon (Côtes de Bergerac). This is Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2011 Berger- a firm, chunky wine that shows ripe plum fruit and dark 85 ac Sec. Aromatic and richly fruity, this has sur- tannins. It has weight and richness that are balanced prising weight that gives the palate a round and smooth JURANÇON SEC by the dense structure. It needs to age for at least four quality. The acidity is there, although it is covered by Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Cami Salié (Ju- years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selec- the superrich fruit. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. 90 rançon Sec). The two great white grapes of tion. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA southwest France, Gros Manseg and Petit Manseng, are abv: 13.5% Price: $20 blended together to create this crisp, peach- and citrus- flavored wine. A spice note adds a more exotic edge, Château Bélingard 2009 Ortus (Côtes de Bergerac). CÔTES DE GASCOGNE while the wine finishes with tight, tangy acidity. Pierre 90 This wood-aged cuvée from Domaine du Tariquet 2011 Classic White Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. Château Belingard has great weight and concentration 87 (Côtes de Gascogne). Celebrating 100 abv: 14% Price: $17 while also showing dense spice and blackberry flavors. years of the domaine this year, Tariquet’s range of wines At this stage, it is showing the wood; but in another year, begins with this classic white. This has a crisp fruitiness, Domaine Nigri 2011 Confluence (Juran- it will round out and its dark juicy fruit will come for- with a floral character and flavors of green plum, pear 88 çon Sec). With a little addition of the local ward. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. and a hint of pineapple. It’s delicious and ready to drink. grapes Camaralet and Lauzet, this Gros Manseng-dom- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Screwcap. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. inated wine is aromatic and spicy, packed with green- Château de la Jaubertie 2008 Mirabelle abv: 11.5% Price: $NA fruit acidity. The texture has a creamed-pear smooth- de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). Made using ness to contrast with the acidity. This will be delicious in 90 selections of the best parcels from Jaubertie, this is a Domaine Uby 2011 No. 1 Sauvignon a year. Good Company Wines. —R.V. complex and structured wine. Mint and new wood fla- 87 Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This is a abv: 13% Price: $NA tropical-fruit-oriented Sauvignon Blanc, with notes of vors are still dominant, although the fruit shows its black yellow fruits and spices and a very floral character. With fruit richness. Age for over four years. Bird Rock Im- its textured nature, it could age for another year. Baron OTHER WHITE WINES ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Château le Raz 2010 White (Côtes de abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 86 Montravel). This is a lightly sweet wine that Château Bélingard 2010 Red (Bergerac). Domaine Uby 2011 No. 3 Ugni Blanc- has perfumed apricot and orange fruits. Balanced with 88 Structured and firm, this is a solid, chunky wine. 87 Colombard (Côtes de Gascogne). Fruity acidity, this would be just right as an apéritif. Demon- With its black fruit flavors merging with a more dry and crisp, this has fresh fruit with a herbal edge. It is toux Fine Wines. —R.V. and tannic core, it is both dense and ageworthy. Acidity bright with a green fruit character, finishing with a note abv: 12% Price: $16 leavens its rich character. Age for 3–4 years. Deutsch of citrus. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Château le Raz 2010 White (Montravel). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 85 White currant is the dominant flavor of this her- Barton & Guestier 2011 Réserve Sauvi- baceous, tangy wine. It also has notes of has green fruit Château de la Jaubertie 2007 Mirabelle 86 gnon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Bright and pink grapefruit, with a tight, zingy finish. Demon- 87 de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). This is a firm and fruity, this has an herbal character that’s balanced toux Fine Wines. —R.V. and tannic wine that is maturing. It remains dry, with a by flavors of pineapple, red apple and a fine tang of abv: 13% Price: $16 definite mineral character to go with the black currant

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 fruit. It’s not likely to age further. Bird Rock Imports. Mas del Périé 2010 La Roque (Cahors). a green, stalky edge that comes from the acidity and —R.V. 91 Dense and almost black in color, this is con- black tannins. Age for two years. Pierre Courdurie Se- abv: 13% Price: $NA centrated, with intense tannins and black plum fruit. lections/Wine Partners. —R.V. It bursts with the rich fruit and acidity, finishing on a abv: 13% Price: $24 Château Bélingard 2010 Cuvée Alliance smoky, juicy note. Wine Traditions. —R.V. 86 (Bergerac). The structure is present as is abv: 14% Price: $25 Château Plaisance 2010 Red (Fronton). the bright black-currant fruit. It has some richness, al- 87 With a predominance of Négrette in the blend, though it is tempered with acidity and a stalky charac- Château d’Ourbenac 2006 Cahors. Pow- this is a warm and spicy wine. It has attractive flavors of ter. Age for 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. 90 erful and concentrated, this has flavors of black red fruits, herbs and juicy peppered-plums, with some —R.V. plum skin and damson, with a juicy layer surrounding firm tannins. It could age for 2–3 years. VOS Selections. abv: 13% Price: $15 the solid structure. Weighty and dense, it could age for —R.V. several more years. CIL US Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Red abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 86 (Bergerac). A fruity wine that’s laced with Domaine Laurens 2009 Cuvée de Flars wood, this is smooth and lightly tannic. The red and Château Vincens 2009 Origine (Cahors). 87 (Marcillac). A blend of 20% Cabernet Sauvi- black berry fruits are at the fore, supported by a toast 90 Dominated by its new wood flavors, this dense gnon and 80% Fer Servadou, this is the top cuvée from character and lifting acidity Age for 1–2 years, but the and concentrated wine has the weight, potential black- Domaine Laurens. It has a new wood richness and firm wine is drinkable now. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. fruit richness and acidity that suggest a good future. Age tannins, with an herbal character that blends into the abv: 14% Price: $12 for 3–4 years. Jon-David Headrick Selections. —R.V. blackberry fruit. Age for another year. Bird Rock Im- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ports. —R.V. Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Red abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 84 (Bergerac). This is a rough-edged wine that Château Vincens 2009 L’Instant (Ca- has some dry tannins and red berry acidity. It’s light on 89 hors). A mineral-driven wine, this is structured Cave du Marmandais 2009 La Vieille Eg- the palate with a fresh character. Drink in a year. Ste- and firmly tannic. It has weight and concentration along 85 lise Réserve (Côtes du Marmandais). phen Augustus Imports. —R.V. with wood and blackberry flavors. Very concentrated, With 30% of the local Abouriou grape in the blend, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA age this for another two years. Jon-David Headrick this is herbal and spicy. It has a round character that is Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. beefed up by the weight and tannins imparted by the abv: 14% Price: $11 addition of Malbec. Red fruits dominate, making this CAHORS ready to drink. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Petit Clos (Cahors). This is an attractive The New Black Wine (Cahors). Made from 89 93 wine, with fruit and firm, supporting tannins. It has a Domaine Laurens 2010 Marcillac. This is grape must that is heated before fermentation, this is mint flavor and a smooth texture, balanced with damson herbal, with black currant and thyme flavors powerful and concentrated, with a rich and very dense 85 fruit. This is ripe and ready to drink over the next year. all set in tannins. The Fer Servadou grape gives this a character. Prune, dried fruit and fresh plum notes com- Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. stalky, wild feeling. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. bine with an intense background of acidity. Age for at abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA least five years. Eagle Eye Brands.Cellar Selection. —R.V. Mas del Périé 2010 Les Escures (Ca- Rigal 2010 The Original Malbec (Vin de abv: 14% Price: $50 89 hors). Forward and fruity, this is already devel- 84 Pays du Lot). Light and juicy, this has fresh Mas del Périé 2009 La Pièce (Cahors). oping its black plum fruit. The wine has a ripe, juicy and blackcurrant fruit, with balanced tannins. With its fruit seemingly sweet character. With its supporting tannins, forward flavor, it’s not a wine for aging. Vinum Interna- The top cuvée from Mas del Périé, this is a con- 93 this should be ready to drink in 1–2 years. Wine Tradi- tional . —R.V. centrated wine, with new wood and black fruit notes. tions. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA It’s packed with intense tannins, spice from the wood abv: 14% Price: $17 aging and a great depth of flavor. This is an impressive wine that will need to age for at least 5–6 years. Wine DESSERT WINES Traditions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. OTHER RED WINES abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Domaine Nigri 2010 Pas de Deux (Ju- Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Mon Adour 90 rançon). Beautifully balanced and poised, this Mas del Périé 2009 Les Acacias (Ca- 91 (Madiran). The wine’s name comes from the blends light, dancing acidity with rich, sweet botrytis 92 hors). Hugely concentrated, powerful and Adour River that flows through the Madiran region. fruit. It’s fruity, with honey and orange flavors that are a ageworthy, this has mint and new wood aromas. It has This is dark colored, powerful and spicy, with weight delight to taste. It could be aged, but it is delicious now. rich damson and blackberry fruits that push through the and richness that should allow this to age for at least Good Company Wines. —R.V. mineral texture and dark tannins, filling the mouth with four years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. abv: 13% Price: $NA its exuberant ripeness. Age for four years. Wine Tradi- Cellar Selection. —R.V. tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Domaine Uby 2011 No. 4 (Côtes de Gas- abv: 14% Price: $40 89 cogne). Medium sweet in character, this is a Château le Raz 2005 Red (Montravel). round, ripe wine. Its flavors show apricot, bitter orange Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina 90 This is a finely structured, tarry-flavored wine, and tangerine that are spiced with just a touch of honey. 91 (Cahors). This is beautifully structured, with notes of herbs and sweet spices along with mature Pair this with a pâté or a fruit dessert. Baron Francois packed with black fruits, ripe tannins and balanced acid- fruits. It’s rich and full bodied, with just a touch of pep- Ltd. —R.V. ity. It’s still young, showing the black fruit side of Mal- per. Drink now or age for another year. Demontoux abv: 11.5% Price: $NA bec, but the tannins are already integrating well into the Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. structure. Age for 4–5 years. European Wine Imports. abv: 14% Price: $20 Château Bélingard 2009 Monbazillac. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 88 Light and fruity, this has honey, spice and tan- abv: 13% Price: $23 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Donibane gerine flavors. It is smooth, rounded and rich; age for 88 (Irrouléguy). A blend of Cabernet Franc and Tannat, this is spicy, smoky and herbal. It is dense, with

WineMag.com | 27 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. CÔTES DU RHÔNE Ogier 2010 Heritages Blanc (Côtes du —R.V. 87 Rhône). A surprisingly strong effort, Ogier’s abv: 12.5% Price: $13 E. Guigal 2010 Côtes du Rhône. More than Heritage Blanc shows some intriguing notes of orange 91 half of the blend is Viognier, which no doubt ac- and mushroom on the nose, then follows up with plenty Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Estela Vintage counts for its dramatic aromas and flavors of exotic trop- of heft on the palate and a long, citrusy finish. Drink it 88 (Vin de Liqueur). A fortified blend of Tannat ical fruit, only just reined in by more citrusy notes. It’s over the next several months. Vinum International. Best and Malbec, this is a ripe and sweet, styled like a vintage full bodied and round in the mouth without being at all Buy. —J.C. Port. It has a powerful structure from the two tannic flabby, with a crisp, clean, lingering finish. Drink it over abv: 13.5% Price: $12 grapes in the blend, along with ripe damson fruit and the next year. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. spice, with acidity on the finish. Pierre Courdurie Selec- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Perrin & Fils 2010 Réserve (Côtes du tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. 87 Rhône). The Perrin family’s line of négociant abv: 16.5% Price: $24 Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Domaine Grand wines includes this reliable white, which features melon 90 Veneur Blanc de Viognier (Côtes du and pineapple aromas and flavors, medium body and a Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Monba- Rhône). Viognier from the Southern Rhône can of- clean, reasonably crisp finish. Drink it over the next six 87 zillac. Rich and concentrated, this has flavors ten be overripe and heavy, but while this offering from months. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —J.C. of honey and vanilla wafer. It has a bite of ginger and Grand Veneur is full bodied and richly textured, it re- abv: 13% Price: $11 orange marmalade. The acidity is subdued, suggesting mains reasonably fresh. Apricot, pineapple and pas- a wine that will age quickly and mature in the next year. sion fruit flavors mingle easily on the palate, finishing Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée Marie Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. clean and long. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ 86 Vieilles Vignes (Côtes du Rhône). This abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Choice. —J.C. full-bodied blend of Viognier, Clairette and Grenache abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Blanc is a pretty typical white from the Southern Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Chambre Rhône. It’s largely neutral in aroma and flavor save for 86 d’Amour (Jurançon). This is a lightly sweet André Brunel 2010 Domaine de la Becas- a modest melon note, with a weighty mouthfeel. Drink wine made from superripe Gros Manseng and Sauvi- 90 sonne (Côtes du Rhône). This wine deliv- soon. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C. gnon Blanc. It has apricot, raisin and pineapple flavors ers all you could want from a Southern Rhône white, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 along with some yeastiness. A fine apéritif wine. Pierre from its ample weight in the mouth to its deft combina- Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. tion of melon, citrus and wet stone. Finishes long and abv: 10.5% Price: $12 mouthwatering. Drink over the next 6–9 months. Rob- OTHER WHITE WINES ert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Viognier (Vin de RHÔNE WHITES abv: 13% Price: $16 90 Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes). A ter- rific value in French Viognier, this “simple” Vin de Pays Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Laurelles displays full-on floral aromas of honeysuckle and rose CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 89 (Côtes du Rhône). Despite containing 50% pollen, fleshed out on the palate by hints of apricot and Viognier, this is a restrained Côtes du Rhône white, Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand pineapple. It’s medium to full in body, with a slightly with subtle citrus and wet stone shadings and a refined, Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This full- creamy texture and a dusting of tannin and white pep- 90 medium-weight mouthfeel. It finishes well, with plenty bodied blend of 60% Clairette and 40% Roussanne is per on the finish. Drink it over the next year or so. of length and hints of citrus and honey. Drink it over the probably best consumed over the next several months. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. next year or two. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. The apple and tangerine aromas and flavors are inviting, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 and there’s a minerally sensation of wet stones under- Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Secret de neath. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. LePlan-Vermeersch 2010 LePlan Clas- abv: 14% Price: $47 85 Famille Viognier (Vin de Pays des Portes 88 sic (Côtes du Rhône). This is fresh and cit- de Méditerranée). This is a pleasantly quaffable Viog- rusy, with melony fruit and ample weight on the palate Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Châ- nier, with restrained apricot and melon aromas and fla- but also enough backbone to keep the flavors taut and teauneuf-du-Pape. This is a broad, mouth- vors. It’s medium bodied, without much texture, but 89 focused. Drink it over the next year or so. Hand Picked coating blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette a clean, refreshing finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Selections. —J.C. and Bourboulenc. Apricot, tangerine and honey notes Ltd. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 dominate the palate, finishing long and just a bit warm. abv: 13% Price: $18 Opt for drinking it over the next 6–9 months. Robert Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Réserve Grand Kacher Selections. —J.C. Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). A blend of 50% abv: 13.5% Price: $45 87 RHÔNE REDS Roussanne, 40% Viognier and 10% Clairette, this is a full-bodied Southern Rhône that somehow manages Vignobles La Coterie 2007 Châteauneuf- to retain aromas of wet stone and crisp, zesty flavors of CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE du-Pape. This 2007 is nearing the end of its 86 melon and pear. Drink it over the next several months. Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand shelf life, but it still features a round, ample mouthfeel Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. Veneur Les Origines (Châteauneuf-du- and pleasant honey, peach and citrus flavors. Drink up. 93 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Pape). Loaded with black cherry and plum fruit, this Cordon Selections. —J.C. is an amply endowed Châteauneuf-du-Pape that avoids abv: 13.5% Price: $36 Ferraton Pere et Fils 2010 Samorëns excess. The fruit flavors remain fresh and vibrant, the (Côtes du Rhône). The Grenache Blanc Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand 87 oaking is understated and the wine’s size is ably sup- (60%) gives this wine its delicate aromas of white flow- Veneur La Fontaine (Châteauneuf-du- ported by soft tannins and just-sufficient acidity. Drink 84 ers, while the Clairette (40%) provides backbone and Pape). A rare slip up from the talented Jaume family, now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. pineapple fruit. Drink this relatively soft, mouthfilling abv: 15.5% Price: $70 this 100% Roussanne is swimming in smoky, toasty oak, white over the next few months. Baron Francois Ltd. with the fruit currently hidden. You could gamble on it —J.C. Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand bouncing back in 5–6 years, or just wait for the better- abv: 13% Price: $14 Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Even balanced 2010. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 92 Grand Veneur’s traditional cuvée shines in 2009, offer- abv: 14.5% Price: $70 ing up notions of black cherries and chocolate liqueur.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 It’s full bodied and richly textured, with a long, velvety more will enjoy the wine’s mix of fruit and oak. Drink nas, with bold, clean blueberry fruit front and center, finish. Simply put, it’s plush and delicious, with no need now–2018. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. anchored by a framework of cedar and vanilla. This full- to age it any further. Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et abv: 14% Price: $40 bodied, lush, creamy expression of Northern Rhône Fils. —J.C. Syrah should drink well through 2025. Domaine Select abv: 15.5% Price: $53 Delas Frères 2009 Haute Pierre (Châ- Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 89 teauneuf-du-Pape). At only 10% Syrah, this abv: 14% Price: $50 Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Châteauneuf- is quite different in composition from most of Delas’s 91 du-Pape. This blend of 60% Grenache, 20% wines. The rest is Grenache, and in 2009 the result is Cave de Tain 2009 Areñes Sauvages Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre delivers juicy, almost gulpable slightly pruny, with touches of coffee, chocolate and 91 (Cornas). As in many 2009s from the North- ern Rhône, the Syrah fruit is superripe. Add in aging fruit, supported by a loose spine of soft tannins. Purple Christmas spice. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture in 100% new oak barrels and the result is a big, richly raspberry and black cherry flavors linger on the supple without being soft, thanks to the crisp acids and silky tannins on the finish. Drink it over the next few years. tannic wine redolent of vanilla, cedar and blackberries. finish. Drink now–2018. The Other Wine & Spirits. Ed- Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C. Drink now–2025. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. itors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $46 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $35 Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Théodoric Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 Terres Brulées M. Chapoutier 2009 Le Bernardine (Châ- (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). A full-bodied wine 90 Syrah (Cornas). An excellent introduction to teauneuf-du-Pape). Chapoutier has fashioned 89 91 that shows some warm-vintage effects in its aromas and the wines of Cornas, this is a gently structured example, a full-bodied, creamy-textured 2009 Le Bernardine, flavors of stewed prunes, mocha, leather and chocolate. but one that shows ample complexity. Coffee, herb and with dark, plummy fruit and a hint of chocolate liqueur It’s mouthfilling and a bit warm on the finish. Drink green olive notes intertwine with a smoky, bacon-like that ably reflect the warm vintage. Yet despite all of the now–2017. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C. element. An espresso note and soft tannins linger on the lushness, the wine doesn’t come across as heavy or over- abv: 14% Price: $36 finish. Drink now–2020. Palm Bay International. —J.C. done, making it attractive for early drinking. Try now– abv: 13.5% Price: $48 2018. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. André Brunel 2009 Châteauneuf-du- abv: 14.5% Price: $56 88 Pape. Despite some tough tannins on the fin- ish, this is an intriguingly complex wine that may prove CÔTE RÔTIE Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Lieu-Dit Pignan even better than this rating suggests. It starts with a E. Guigal 2008 Château d’Ampuis (Côte 91 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a wine that garrigue note and a hint of tapenade, then adds bright 93 Rôtie). In this difficult vintage, Guigal’s Châ- teeters on the edge between superripeness and over- cherry fruit and plenty of dusty tannins. Drink 2014– teau Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features ripeness. At one moment its fruit comes across as slight- 2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory ly herbal and raspberry-like, while the next it can seem abv: 14% Price: $45 smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine slightly raisined, with a hint of nail polish. It’s round shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of and creamy in texture, with a long finish framed in ele- Domaine de Nalys 2009 Châteauneuf-du- the silky character that makes Côte Rôtie special. Drink gant, soft tannins. Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. 87 Pape. This is an immediately accessible Châ- now–2020. Vintus LLC. —J.C. —J.C. teauneuf-du-Pape, with moderately concentrated red abv: 13.5% Price: $160 abv: 14.5% Price: $74 fruit, leather and clove notes, crisp acids and just a hint of supple tannin on the finish. Drink it over the next sev- E. Guigal 2008 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rô- Domaine de Nalys 2009 Réserve (Châ- eral years. Frank-Lin International. —J.C. 90 tie). Because of the extended elevage carried 90 teauneuf-du-Pape). Atypical for the appella- abv: 14.5% Price: $39 out at Guigal, the company’s releases are always behind tion in that it’s 80% Syrah, this is a dark-fruited, slightly the market as a whole. Despite a tough vintage, this is an Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Otéliées pruny Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Chocolate and licorice elegant, silky-textured wine, with complex notes of green (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This négociant olive, raspberry and cracked pepper. Vintus LLC. —J.C. notes add complexity to this full-bodied, firmly struc- 87 based in the Northern Rhône has turned out a meaty, abv: 13.5% Price: $75 tured wine. With its long, chewy finish, consider defer- savory Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s full bodied and firmly ring consumption until at least 2014. Frank-Lin Inter- structured, with plenty of clove, leather and peppered national. —J.C. beef. Drink 2014–2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates. CÔTES DU RHÔNE abv: 14.5% Price: $68 —J.C. Domaine Patrice Magni 2010 La Cueil- abv: 14% Price: $60 Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys 91 lette (Côtes du Rhône). A terrific value, 90 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see Domaine Patrice Magni 2009 Sensation Magni’s Côtes du Rhône comes from an area just out- side Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Coudoulet lieu dit. The page 9. Editors’ Choice. (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Dominated by 86 blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah is full bodied abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Grenache, Magni’s 2009 Sensation displays distinctive and richly textured, with vibrant fruit flavors of dark notes of pie cherry, stewed rhubarb, watermelon and berries and savory overtones. Its long, velvety finish Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Châteauneuf-du- cracked pepper. Medium to full in the mouth, it boasts suggests drinking now and over the next 5–8 years. 90 Pape. This is a silky-textured, medium-bodied exceptionally silky tannins. Tart and peppery on the fin- Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with lifted red-berry fruit and ish but not at all unpleasant. Domaine Select Wine Es- abv: 15% Price: $20 grace notes of thyme blossom and bay leaf. It’s a truly tates. —J.C. elegant style, with a supple, mouth-watering finish. abv: 15% Price: $50 Sélection Laurence Féraud 2011 Côtes Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. —J.C. 91 du Rhône. This super bargain reflects the abv: 14.5% Price: $51 CORNAS charm of the 2011 vintage in its supple tannins and for- ward fruit. It’s lush and creamy textured, with expres- Skalli 2009 La Tiare du Pape (Châ- Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syr- sive notes of kirsch, spice and cocoa. Drink now–2017. 90 teauneuf-du-Pape). Shows some oak aging 93 ah (Cornas). For full review see page 5. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. in its aromas of cedar, caramel and baking spices, but abv: 14% Price: $84 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 also in the velvety mouthfeel and slightly drying finish. Thankfully, there are just enough ripe cherries to carry Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Barcillants CDR 2010 Côtes du Rhône. A medium- the freight, so while purists may be dismayed, plenty 93 (Cornas). This seems awfully civilized for Cor- 90 bodied blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan,

WineMag.com | 29 this wine offers a supple feel and plenty of red berry and Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 Bastide de eral manager at M. Chapoutier, also has his own label, cherry fruit, with just enough spice to give it additional 86 Beauvert (Côtes du Rhône). This smooth, which includes this very attractive wine from Sign­ interest. Drink it over the next year or two. Domaine easygoing blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah is a argues, the southernmost villages appellation of the Select Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C. pleasant surprise, offering up bright raspberry fruit and Côte du Rhône. It’s full bodied and ripe without being abv: 14% Price: $15 a hint of chocolaty richness. Drink it over the next year flabby or unstructured, delivering blueberry and black- or so. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. berry fruit, peppery spice and a long finish that rever- Cellier des Chartreux 2010 Chevalier abv: 13.5% Price: $10 berates with fruit and an espresso note. Massanois Im- 90 d’Anthelme (Côtes du Rhône). This is an ports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. impressive effort from a co-op in the Gard. Black olive, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Parallèle 45 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 coffee and blackberry notes suggest a healthy propor- 86 (Côtes du Rhône). This blend of 60% Gre- tion of Syrah in the blend. It’s a bit stern at first, but nache and 40% Syrah is atypically big and burly in 2009, Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Tine Visan ends on a long, richly tannic note. Holiday Beverage. showing some intense coffee and charcoal notes layered 90 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Visan is a vil- —J.C. over black cherry fruit. Dusty tannins mark the finish, lage that can produce some ageworthy wines, and this abv: 13.5% Price: $21 so serve it alongside fatty meats where the tannins will looks to be in that same mold, with firm tannins framing work in the wine’s favor. Frederick Wildman & Sons, blackberry and black olive flavors. Give it another year La Font du Vent 2009 Les Promesses Ltd. —J.C. or two, then drink it over the next 5–6. Domaine Select 90 (Côtes du Rhône). From the Gonnets of abv: 14% Price: $14 Wine Estates. —J.C. Font de Michelle in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is the abv: 13.5% Price: $26 family’s entry-level wine from an estate in the southern Skalli 2009 Les Rabassières (Côtes du part of the Côtes du Rhône. The medium-bodied rasp- 86 Rhône). A silky, medium-bodied selection, this Sélection Laurence Féraud 2009 Séguret berry fruit is accented by hints of cracked pepper, dried features elegant notes of cherries, fine leather and bak- 90 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Laurence spices and leather. It’s supple enough to drink now and ing spices. It’s a soft, easy-to-drink wine for immediate Féraud’s selections (her family owns Domaine de Pé- over the next 4–5 years. Robert Kacher Selections. Best consumption. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. gaü in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) for her négociant line, Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 like this Séguret, often represent excellent values. This abv: 13.5% Price: $15 is a full-bodied, velvety wine filled with notes of kirsch Château du Trignon 2009 Côtes du and Mexican chocolate. The finish is warm and comfort- Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Guy Louis (Côtes 85 Rhône. Tart and slightly herbal, with crisp red ing, and like a thick blanket, it would be a welcome sight 90 du Rhône). More Tardieu-Laurent than Côtes fruit that never really fills out on the palate. It’s pleas- this winter. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. du Rhône, with hallmark exotic, nearly tropical notes ant enough for an everyday quaff, just not particularly —J.C. suggestive of toasted coconut, vanilla and apricot. It’s memorable. David Milligan Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 full bodied and plush in texture, with a long, cedary and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 velvety finish. Drink it over the next few years. Wilson Boutinot 2009 La Côte Sauvage Cairanne Daniels Ltd. —J.C. Domaine du Gros Pata 2009 Cuvée Sa- 89 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Cairanne is said abv: 14.5% Price: $28 85 bine (Côtes du Rhône). This wine has won- to be in line to become the Rhône’s next cru, and this derfully perfumed aromas of cherries and raspberries, wine is a solid example. It artfully marries fruit and Ogier 2010 Heritages (Côtes du Rhône). but seemingly stops there. The flavors are enjoyable but spice in a medium-bodied wine with suple tannins and 89 A surprisingly strong effort from Ogier, this simple and while the mouthfeel is ample, the finish falls suprisingly crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Regal Wine is marked by dark, earthy notes of espresso, black ol- off a bit. P.R. Grisley Company. —J.C. Imports Inc. —J.C. ives and blackberries. Drink this full-bodied, slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $26 chewy wine over the next few years. Imported by Clas- sic Wines of California and Vinum International. —J.C. Chateau Saint Nabor 2010 Tradition Laudun Chusclan 2010 Clos de Taman abv: 14.5% Price: $15 83 (Côtes du Rhône). This has a deeply flushed, 89 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This has an im- burgundy core. The reluctant nose shows graphite, penetrable black core with fuschia highlights. The vi- Les Trois Couronnes 2011 Côtes du game and pepper, with boysenberry and blackberry brant, mineral-driven Old World nose has asphalt, char- 87 Rhône. Offering uncomplicated, easy drink- joining underbrush and cedar on the palate. The very coal and charred wood notes leading the way. Black ing, this Grenache-Syrah blend is lush and immediately average fruit concentration shows light dilution and currant, rhubarb, lingonberry and linden leaf carry the accessible, displaying the charm of the 2011 vintage. leads to a short finish. Moderately drying tannins and flavors. The dense, concentrated palate is taut—and Drink it over the next year or two for its gulpable cherry lively acidity frame the supple body and will allow it to slightly awkward—with marked acidity, mild viscosity and chocolate flavors. The Other Wine & Spirits. Best hold for at least two years though the wine will not likely and firm tannins. The prolonged finish is multidimen- Buy. —J.C. evolve to benefit. Valley View Wine Sales. —W.E. sional and complex. This is a cuvée to follow as it shows abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA plenty of potential. Drink now and for the next three years. —W.E. André Brunel 2009 Côtes du Rhône. A abv: 14% Price: $NA 86 slightly chunky and inelegant Côtes du Rhône, CÔTES DU RHÔNE this wine nevertheless delivers satisfying and assertive VILLAGES André Brunel 2009 Cuvée Sabrine (Côtes notes of black olive, espresso and dark chocolate. Drink 88 du Rhône Villages). Dark and intense, with it over the next few years. Robert Kacher Selections. LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-G Grand notes of roasted meat, plum and black olive that give —J.C. 91 Terroir Grenache (Côtes du Rhône Vil- way to an espresso note and chalky tannins on the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 lages). This wine starts off with vanilla, cinnamon and Pretty stern stuff, which just means you’ll want to give it dark cherry notes on the nose, with the oak-derived ele- another year or two before drinking it over the next 5–6 Les Vignerons d’Estezargues 2010 Terre ments marrying nicely with the Grenache fruit. It’s full years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. 86 de Mistral (Côtes du Rhône). This intrigu- bodied, liquorous and lush, with a long, velvety finish. abv: 14% Price: $15 ing blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan com- Probably best over the next 4–5 years. Hand Picked Se- bines crisp red-fruit flavors and lush, creamy tannins. lections. —J.C. La Font du Vent 2009 Notre Passion Sig- There’s a slightly herbal tinge as well. Drink it over the abv: 15% Price: $37 88 nargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This next year or two. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. is atypically medium bodied for the warm 2009 vintage, abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Signargues with an admirable degree of lightness and drinkability. 91 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Morel, the gen-

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Tart berry fruit is accented by rose hips and orange zest, textured, with a long, layered finish. Drink now–2020. Perrin & Fils 2009 La Gille (Gigondas). An then finishes crisp and lingering. Drink it over the next Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. 87 odd, menthol note runs through this wine, giv- several years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 ing the bright cherry fruit a slightly medicinal edge. It’s abv: 14% Price: $16 slightly creamy in texture, with a hint of chocolate on Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de the warm finish. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-S Grand 91 Roure (Crozes-Hermitage). If the oak inte- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 Terroir Syrah (Côtes du Rhône Villages). grates better and recedes more into the fruit than I sus- Full bodied and thickly textured, this Southern Rhône pect, this rating will look conservative. Right now, oak is Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Gigondas. A Syrah combines cedar and vanilla notes from oak ag- front and center, arrayed in ranks of toasted cedar and 86 bulky wine with an ample mix of cherry and ing with notes of brandied cherries and a bit of asphalt. vanilla. It’s full bodied and chewy in texture, with a long, chocolate flavors, this Gigondas is a big, fairly rich It’s long on the finish, with a plush feel, then ends on a plushly oaky finish. Try after 2015. Frederick Wildman mouthful but is slightly lacking for nuance. Give it an- other year or two to see if more develops. Massanois slightly bitter note. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Imports. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Perrin & Fils 2009 L’Andéol Rasteau Vidal-Fleury 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. This 88 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Starts with 90 is nicely floral on the nose, with black cherry HERMITAGE raspberry and cherry aromas and a dusty, earthy note fruit accented by hints of thyme and bay leaf, while the that adds complexity and character. You can sense the flavors are a harmonious mélange of herb, spice and ripe Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche warmth of the vintage in the glass, with slightly raisined fruit. It’s full bodied and slightly chewy at first, turning 93 (Hermitage). For full review see page 5. notes that come through on the palate alongside the more velvety on the finish. Drink now–2017. Deutsch abv: 14% Price: $90 supple tannins. Drink it over the next few years. Vine- Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $23 E. Guigal 2006 Hermitage. This is the cur- yard Brands. —J.C. rent release from Guigal, which makes it one abv: 13.5% Price: $25 92 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Crozes-Hermit- of the few Hermitages on store shelves that’s ready to age. drink. It’s medium to full in weight, chunky and asser- Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 La Réserve 89 This supple, medium-bodied wine packs tive, but not overly concentrated or tannic. Instead, it du Crouzau St. Gervais (Côtes du Rhône in many of the notes that make Syrah from the Northern 86 Rhône so compelling: coffee, tar, leather, black olive, delivers beefy notes of coffee, black olive and spice, Villages). A solid, medium-bodied effort, this Saint chocolate and roasted meat, all backed by raspberry- backed by hints of raspberries and cedar. Vintus LLC. Gervais boasts fine complexity on the nose, where it cherry fruit. Enjoy the ride over the next several years. —J.C. mixes berries with smoke and olive before turning dark- Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $90 er on the palate, finally ending with hints of bitter choc- abv: 13% Price: $26 olate and espresso. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Cave de Tain 2009 Fine Fleur de Crozes SAINT-JOSEPH 87 (Crozes-Hermitage). Shows pleasant North- Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Archevêques CROZES-HERMITAGE ern Rhône Syrah notes of raspberry and cherry, even 90 (Saint-Joseph). This négociant’s top cuvée of if it’s not particularly textured or complex. The fruit is Saint-Joseph has vibrant mixed berry notes that pick up Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Her- crisp and forward, with sufficient tannins to ably part- lovely hints of licorice and garrigue, then turn choco- 92 mitage. For full review see page 6. Editors’ ner burgers or steaks. Drink it over the next few years. laty and velvety on the finish. Nicely done all the way Choice. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. around, with a drinking window extending from now abv: 13% Price: $36 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 through 2017. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de 92 Thalabert (Crozes-Hermitage). Despite GIGONDAS La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2009 Saint- Joseph. this wine’s thick veneer of toasty, vanilla-scented oak, it Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Pimpi- 89 A very drinkable Saint-Joseph, with bouncy, bright berry character and hints of smoke and has plenty of underlying fruit, powerful enough to han- gnoles (Gigondas). This wine has plenty to 90 asphalt. It’s medium bodied and crisp, with only a touch dle the wood. It’s full bodied, dense and richly textured, offer, from brightly fruity and peppery aromas to flavors of silky-textured tannin. Domaine Select Wine Estates. with a long, velvety finish redolent of blackberries and of cherry, leather amd spice. The tannins are silky in tex- —J.C. cedar. Approachable now, but should easily age through ture, and the lengthy finish develops hints of cocoa and abv: 12.5% Price: $50 2025. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selec- clove. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. tion. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $40 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Saint-Joseph. abv: 14% Price: $60 This négociant bottling delivers reasonably M. Chapoutier 2010 Gigondas. 88 Full bodied fresh fruit and plenty of ripe raspberry flavor. It’s me- Dauvergne & Ranvier 2009 Vin Rare and densely packed, this is a solid, cellar-worthy 89 dium to full in body, with supple tannins that make it (Crozes-Hermitage). This selection shows 91 Gigondas that needs time to unfold. Right now, the aro- easy to drink now. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. pure black-cherry fruit on the nose, then it folds in hints mas are slightly reticent, the chocolate and plum notes abv: 13% Price: $36 of flowers, spices, chocolate and coffee on the palate. only slowly unfurling on the palate. Try 2014–2020. Ter- It’s full bodied and creamy in texture without being lato Wines International. —J.C. Les Vins de Vienne 2009 L’Arzelle (Saint- heavy, then finishes long. Ready to drink, but should abv: 14% Price: $50 86 Joseph). A solid example of Saint-Joseph, with easily hold another 5–6 years. The Sorting Table. —J.C. dark notes of asphalt and black olive playing alongside abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Gigondas. A modest berry flavors. It’s medium bodied and smooth in 88 fresh, appealing example of Gigondas, with texture, with a mouth-watering finish. Domaine Select Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Palignons mouth-watering cherry fruit that’s blissfully uncompli- Wine Estates. —J.C. 91 (Crozes-Hermitage). This is Les Vins de cated yet satisfying for its verve and intensity. A hint of abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Vienne’s upscale Crozes, and it’s very successful in 2009, cocoa sneaks in on the finish. Drink it over the next few featuring bold, concentrated blackberry fruit supported years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Saint-Joseph. by hints of vanilla and toast. It’s full bodied and richly abv: 14% Price: $23 85 Round and silky, this is a medium-bodied Saint-

WineMag.com | 31 Joseph intended for early enjoyment. Blackberry and mocha and olivaceous components reminiscent of the nearly a year and a half in French oak, it retains a pep- dusty earth shadings mingle easily on the palate, fading Northern Rhône. It’s full bodied, warm and velvety, pery aroma of nasturtium blossom along with toast and just a bit quickly on the finish. Domaine Select Wine with a long finish filled with chocolaty richness. Ready honey notes. Toasted nuts figure prominently on the Estates. —J.C. to drink. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C. palate, with just enough fruit weight to support the oak, abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 15% Price: $100 while a touch of honey lingers on the finish. Drink now. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. Guillaume Gros 2009 El Niño Loco (Vin abv: 13.5% Price: $65 VACQUEYRAS 91 de Pays de la Méditerranée). The blend is Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Grand Cap Vignobles La Coterie 2010 Vacqueyras. 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Carignan, and in 2009 the grapes were as ripe as they could be. Mocha (Vin de France). Made from a typical Gascon Full-bodied and muscular without being over- 86 90 and chocolate notes pick up a touch of prune. With its blend of Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Man- blown, this wine showcases slightly lifted, plummy fruit, superripe fruit, ample weight, lush texture and warm seng, this zesty wine is dry, herbaceous, fresh and crisp. accented by licorice and black pepper. It’s a bit warm on finish, there are valid concerns about its ageability, but Its full of citrus and green apple fruits, with a tangy fin- the finish but spicy and nuanced as well. Drink now– this offers hedonistic drinking for an affordable price. ish. Screwcap. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part- 2020. Cordon Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Editors’ Choice. Best Buy. abv: 15% Price: $20 Sherbrooke Cellars. —J.C. ners. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $10 Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Barthélémy Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Merlot-Gr- Guy Saget 2011 La Petite Perrière Sauvi- (Vacqueyras). For a Vacqueyras, this is rather 89 enache (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée). gnon Blanc (Vin de France). This is refresh- charming and supple, with slightly jammy black-cher- 89 85 For full review see page 11. Best Buy. ing, with herbaceous hints as well as a warm yellow-fruit ry notes balanced by mouth-watering acidity. Hints of abv: 13.5% Price: $10 character. It’s ripe, full of youthful fruitiness and ready leather and anise add a welcome note of complexity. to drink. Screwcap. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. Drink it over the next few years. Gabriel Meffre Amer- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ica. —J.C. OTHER FRANCE abv: 14% Price: $22 L. Tramier et Fils 2011 Bourricot Char- donnay (Vin de France). Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Sillote (Vac- LANGUEDOC WHITES 85 Fresh and fruity with creamy green and white fruits, this is a soft, ready queyras). Combine prune, leather and spice 88 Domaine de Malavieille 2010 Charmille to drink Chardonnay. Attractively fruity, the acidity fine- notes with firm tannins and the result is a slightly rustic, 90 (Pays d’Oc). This is straw colored with a ly cuts through the wine. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. old-school expression of Vacqueyras. It’s concentrated bright hue. Passion fruit, guava, honey, hazelnut and abv: 13% Price: $11 and characterful, with up to a decade of aging potential. glue surface on the moderately aromatic nose. Crisp de- Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. spite its full-bodied palate, the wine’s alcohol is gener- abv: 15% Price: $37 ous but well-balanced. The attack is resolutely dry and ROSÉS creates a pleasant and lightly rugged texture across the Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée André Vie- L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin midpalate. The medium finish has well-concentrated illes Vignes (Vacqueyras). de France). Best 87 Buoyed by pleas- fruit and a hazelnut undertone, suggesting a fine effort. 86 For full review see page 12. Buy. ant black-plum fruit and healthy doses of licorice and Hand Picked Selections. —W.E. 12.5% $10 peppery spice, this sturdy, medium-bodied wine may abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: Price: lack a little charm but ticks all the other boxes, ending

long and balanced. Drink now–2018. Vinum Distribu- Les Caves Richemer 2011 Terre et Mer Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa La Vie en tion Inc. —J.C. 88 Terret Blanc (Vin de Pays des Côtes de 85 Rosé (Vin de France). This is a crisply fruity abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Thau). The restrained nose shows a faint floral charac- dry rosé from the vineyards of Fronton. It has raspberry ter accompanied by notes of lemon cream and mineral. and citrus flavors and refreshing acidity. The finish is Les Trois Couronnes 2010 (Vacqueyras). The palate hesitantly opens up a bit more with flavors light and fresh. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part- Best Buy. 86 Modest leather, spice and black plum notes lead of peach skin, lemon icebox pie and whipping cream. ners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 into a wine that’s plump and dark fruited, not especially Decidedly medium in weight, this has medium-concen- complex, but mouthfilling. The acids seem a touch low, trated fruit and a rather linear palate. The moderate, so consume this soft, charming wine over the next few refreshing acidity leads to a fairly short finish. Drink this LANGUEDOC REDS years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. now and for two years, as it should be appreciated while abv: 14% Price: $18 still youthful. AHD Vintners. —W.E. Prieuré St. Jean de Bébian 2008 Coteaux abv: 12% Price: $NA 93 du Languedoc. Open and primal on nose, this has notes of game, roasted meat, lead pencil, green bell OTHER RED WINES Vignobles Garrigae 2010 Seigneurie de pepper and blackberry. It offers succulent fruit on the Chêne Bleu 2006 Abélard (Vin de Pays de 84 Peyrat Tradition Chardonnay-Viogni- midpalate, accompanied by generous viscosity and oak. 93 Vaucluse). From a new winery that’s bottle- er (Pays d’Oc). Vanilla and toasted almond aromas The wine sits broadly across the palate with significant aging its wines prior to release, this is a blend of 80% evolve into a scent of tarte tatin. Full bodied, with warm heft, chewy tannins and moderate acidity. The harmony Grenache and 20% Syrah. Because the vineyards alcohol, this shows medium fruit concentration. The of flavors and structure lingers onto the lengthy finish. straddle multiple appellations, it carries a modest Vin acidity is borderline in its balance, leaning to flabiness. Wine Worldwide. —W.E. de Pays de Vaucluse label, but this is serious stuff. It’s The tactile heat on the medium finish is distracting. Pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 dense and creamy in texture, with a long, velvety fin- ateur Imports. —W.E. ish and flavors of chocolate, black olive and dark plum. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Vignobles Sarrail 2011 Domaine Drink now–2020. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C. 91 L’Estagnère (Vin de Pays Cité de Carcas- abv: 15% Price: $100 sonne). Aromas of mulberry, boysenberry, underbrush OTHER WHITE WINES and dried lavendar lead to notes of black currant, dried

Chêne Bleu 2006 Héloïse (Vin de Pays Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Taburnum Viog- herb and crushed granite on the palate. It possesses a de Vaucluse). 91 The blend of this Chêne Bleu 90 nier (Vin de France). This full-bodied, lush- smooth mouthfeel with succulent glycerol, balancing wine is 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 5% Viognier, ly textured wine is 100% Viognier. Despite being aged acidity and lightly grainy tannins. Moderate in length, and with its elevated proportion of Syrah come bacony, with savory and mineral qualities lingering, this will

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 evolve over the next 2–3 years and may hold longer. JF of evolution, with aromas of mulberry, black cherry and a great job with Chardonnay, as evidenced by this wine. Wine Imports. —W.E. black raspberry also evident. Full bodied with balanced It’s rich and soft, with bright aromas of peach, citrus, abv: 14% Price: $NA alcohol and lightly dusty tannins, the wine overcom- vanilla and savory herb. A pinch of acidity on the finish pensates in structure with its lightly tart acidity. Already works beautifully as well. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Château Saint Baulery 2010 Saint-Chini- evolving, this will drink now and up to 2–3 years longer. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 90 an. The nose is loaded with mineral, pencil lead Laurel Importers. —W.E. and blackberry notes. Generously juicy on the palate, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Diadema 2011 D’Amare (Toscana). this exudes youthful fruit backed by terroir-influenced 88 D’Amare is a rich blend of Chardonnay and notes. The tannins are structured and lightly sinewy yet Les Celliers Jean d’Alibert 2010 Domaine Viognier, offering a thick, viscous mouthfeel and bright soft all at once. The acidity is fresh, carrying the well- 83 de l’Estagnol (Minervois). Milk chocolate, notes of apricot, pear, pineapple and exotic fruit. It concentrated flavors of this chunky wine into a medium mocha, garrigue and mineral notes contribute to the shows fine density and a creamy finish. Superior Wine finish. This is a decidedly Old World in style, with evi- fragrant nose. Full bodied with pronounced alcohol, the Selections. —M.L. dent fruit purity and provenance of place. Drink now wine is surprisingly lacking in concentation on the mid- abv: 13% Price: $50 and for three more years. Hand Picked Selections. palate. The tannins are round and easy, and the acidity —W.E. is supporting, finishing short. Laville Imports. —W.E. Fattoria Lavacchio 2010 Pachàr (Tos- abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 cana). Pachàr is a blend of organically farmed Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon that offers bright Domaine Modat 2009 Sans Plus Atten- Moulin de Lène 2010 Alphonse (Côtes aromas of citrus, peach, pineapple and blanched al- 90 dre (Côtes du Roussillon Villages Cara- 83 de Thongue). The fresh but restrained nose mond. Pair this pretty wine with rice-stuffed zucchini many). This has a somewhat high-toned and mineral- shows notes of pencil lead, damp earth, roasted game or tomatoes. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. driven nose, offering notes of roasted squab and pheas- and prune. The flavors follow suit but evidence fatigue abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ant, sage and mocha ice cream. Spirituous alcohol and rather than freshness on the palate. The medium body Monteverro 2011 Il Nostro Vermentino opulent fruit are the focus of the highly extracted palate. pivots around the wine’s marked acidity and dusty tan- (Toscana). The acidity is present but relegated to the background, nins. Cannon Wines Limited. —W.E. 88 Very crisp, clean and polished, this is an easy white wine to enjoy with friends and grilled while the rather supple, mouth-coating tannins pro- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 fish. It’s redolent of cut grass, citrus, peach and white vide most of the wine’s structure. The new oak is subtle. almond. Opici Wines. —M.L. Drink now and for four more years. Romano Brands. Moulin de Lène 2010 Romanus (Côtes abv: 13% Price: $NA —W.E. 82 de Thongue). The closed nose slips by a sun- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA baked blueberry character, with notes of garrigue, min- Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Astraio Viog- eral and cherry cough syrup. Ribena candy, black lico- nier (Maremma). Hats off to the Zonin fam- Domain La Tour Penedesses 2010 Les rice and evergreen surface on the palate. It has fleshy, 88 ily for being among the first to offer a Viognier from Volcans (Coteaux du Languedoc-Péze- fresh fruit, with finessed but somewhat coarse tannins 89 southern Tuscany. This shows the thick viscosity that is nas). The youthful nose is primed with black currant, and pronounced but reasonable alcohol. Cannon Wines characteristic of the variety, with floral notes of violets blueberry, earth and licorice. Generous and supple Limited. —W.E. and lemon blossoms. There’s a dusty touch of mineral or on the palate with restrained acidity, the tannins show abv: 13.5% Price: $15 brimstone on the finish. Zonin USA. Editors’ Choice. some sinew, yet they are well-integrated. It’s fullbodied, —M.L. with slightly spirituous alcohol, however, the excellent abv: 14% Price: $15 concentration on the palate can support this. Overall, OTHER RED WINES the wine is well knit, including its inflections of baked Barton & Guestier 2011 Bistro Pinot Noir Sada 2011 Vermentino (Toscana). Hand- cobbler and vanilla bean from the oak aging. Drink now 84 (Ile de Beauté). Soft and fruity with some 88 some in packaging and content, this fresh Ver- and for five more years. Dionysos Imports Inc. —W.E. sweetness, this red-fruit-flavored wine is rounded and mentino shows wonderful lightness, with notes of hon- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA warm, crispened by acidity. Barton & Guestier USA. ey, yellow rose, stone fruit, pear and dried hay. Pure Best Buy. —R.V. honey is the primary flavor on the finish. ID Beverage Les Deux Rives 2010 Rouge (Corbières). abv: 12% Price: $8 Group. —M.L. 88 The bright nose leads with aromas of crushed abv: 13% Price: $22 granite, damp forest floor and baked boysenberry cob- L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Bourricot Pinot bler drizzled with cassis liqueur. This is medium-bod- 84 Noir (Vin de France). This is a soft, gentle Banfi 2011 Centine Bianco (Toscana). ied, with integrated alcohol and very little glycerol. This Pinot with a plum jelly flavor derived from a touch of 87 This Tuscan blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Char- robust red has focused acidity and pleasantly tugging, sweetness in its fruit. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. donnay and Pinot Grigio opens with crisp, almost tart, broad tannins. Squeaky-clean fruit and smart winemak- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 tones of citrus, exotic fruit and honeydew. The wine ing make this a curiously rambunctious yet polished shows substance in the mouth and enough heft to pair wine. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —W.E. with tuna or chicken salad. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 TUSCANY —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11 Domaine Combe Blanche 2009 La Chan- WHITE WINES 86 delière (Minervois La Liviniere). The nose Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo White (Tos- has subtle notes of game, iodine, lavender and blackber- Monteverro 2009 Monteverro Chardon- 87 cana). A great value wine, this blend of Char- ry, which follow through oto the palate. Suave and sup- 92 nay (Toscana). This creamy Tuscan Chardon- donnay, Grechetto and Sauvignon shows easy freshness ple tannins pair with medium acidity and evident glyc- nay shares many characteristics with its distant cousin in and bright aromas of stone fruit, lemon zest, honeydew erol, making this an easy-drinking red. It has integrated California. It shows a decidedly New World style, with and peach. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. yet high alcohol, and the short finish points to a drinking aromas of vanilla cream, dried apricot, honey, peach abv: 12.5% Price: $12 window of two years. Roberts Fine Wines. —W.E. cobbler and crème brûlée. The finish is marked with a abv: 15% Price: $NA spicy toasted-oak intensity. Opici Wines. —M.L. Castello Banfi 2011 San Angelo Pinot abv: 14% Price: $120 87 Grigio (Toscana). Pinot Grigio enthusiasts G. Moulinier 2007 Les Sigillaires (Saint- will love this citrusy expression from Tuscany. There’s 85 Chinian). Notes of crushed leaves, leather and Castello Banfi 2011 Fontanelle Chardon- just enough warm-climate ripeness here to give the tobacco leaves on the overt nose indicate the first signs 90 nay (Toscana). Castello Banfi in Tuscany does wine a full, creamy feel on the finish, yet the bouquet

WineMag.com | 33 is all about freshness; notes of lemon-lime, melon and a nice touch of mineral dryness on the finish. Palm Bay white peach are prominent. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. International. —M.L. ROSÉS abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $14 Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 RosaMati Rosé 88 (Maremma). A beautiful blend of Sangiovese Castello d’Albola 2011 Poggio alle Fate La Selva 2011 Vermentino (Maremma). and Syrah, this delivers structure and power wrapped 87 Chardonnay (Toscana). From one of the 86 Made with organically farmed grapes, this vino within delicate notes of wild berry, bitter almond, dried most beautiful estates in Radda-in-Chianti, this pretty naturale opens with bright aromas of citrus, hay, cut blueberry and chopped herb. The close is thickly struc- Chardonnay offers layers of ripe peach, apricot, vanilla grass and grapefruit. The wine shows a lean, compact tured and fresh. Winebow. —M.L. cream and spice. Zonin USA. —M.L. feel in the mouth, with bright acidity on the finish. Euro abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Fine Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo Rosé (Tos- Col d’Orcia 2011 Pinot Grigio 87 cana). A whole new generation of Italian rosé 87 (Sant’Antimo). From the Sant’Antimo appel- Pieve Vecchia 2011 Le Zere (Maremma). is finally gaining the attention it deserves. This is an ex- lation in southern Tuscany (near Montalcino), this zesty 86 A fresh blend of Fiano and Chardonnay, Le ceptionally fresh and clean wine that would pair with Pinot Grigio shows the richness and fullness you usually Zere is redolent of lemon zest, pineapple, Golden De- smoked salmon, fish carpaccio orinsalata di mare. Opi- find in Tuscan whites. Generous tones of melon, yellow licious apple and even a touch of banana. It’s a perfect ci Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. rose and apricot are followed by bright acidity. Palm Bay match to barbecued shrimp. Supreme Wines & Spirits. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 International. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Banfi 2011 Centine Rosé (Toscana). This 86 opens with a light pink color, exhibiting lively Fattoria Lavacchio 2011 Bianco del Mu- Tamburini 2011 Il Castelluccio (Toscana). aromas of raspberry, cranberry and pink grapefruit. The 87 lino (Toscana). Made with organically farmed 86 Il Castelluccio is a blend of Trebbiano and Mal- wine is slender and easy on the finish, with a final zesty- Trebbiano and Traminer Aromatico, this offers floral vasia, bearing fragrant aromas of lemon blossom, grape- citrus blast. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. aromas and fragrant fruit tones, with nice crispness and fruit and exotic fruit. The wine feels thick and sticky on abv: 13% Price: $NA medium intensity. Pair this with fried shrimp or spicy the palate, with a soft, chewy finish. Best Value Wine Thai food. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. Group. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $12 CHIANTI CLASSICO

Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 Poggio Argen- Banfi 2011 Le Rime White (Toscana). Le Mazzei 2007 Ser Lapo Riserva (Chianti 87 tato (Toscana). This is a memorable blend 85 Rime is a very simple blend of Chardonnay and 92 Classico). This is a full and generous wine of Sauvignon and Traminer that opens with the bright, Pinot Grigio that would go down nicely with tuna sal- (90% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot) that lavishes on rich floral aromas associated with these fragrant variet- ad or grilled vegetables. Lean and compact, it offers layers of red cherry, soft chocolate, tobacco and spice. ies. It’s light, crisp and lively, with a zesty, clean finish. bright citrus, pear and stone fruit aromas. Banfi Vint- You taste the pureness of the black fruit in the mouth Winebow. —M.L. ners. —M.L. and are treated to a rich, velvety finish. Palm Bay Inter- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA national. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 La Calonica 2011 Don Giovanni Sauvi- Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tos- 87 gnon (Cortona). Don Giovanni seduces with 85 cana). Food friendly, informal and bright, this Ruffino 2007 Riserva Ducale Oro (Chi- bright aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus, kiwi and easy-drinking Pinot Grigio opens with bright citrus, 92 anti Classico). This special commemorative exotic fruit. There’s a touch of soft sweetness in the stone fruit and melon. There’s a touch of white almond bottle celebrates the 60th anniversary (1947–2007) of mouth, with bright fruit flavors on the finish. Panebi- paste on the close that recalls the warm Tuscan sun- one of Italy’s flagship wines. The characteristic aromas anco. —M.L. shine. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. of Sangiovese come through loud and clear in the form abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $NA of bright pulses of wild berry, blue flower, light spice and dried tobacco. The wine is bright and tight on the La Corsa 2011 Dueluglio Vermentino Principe Corsini - Fattoria Le Corti 2011 finish. Hold this bottle in your cellar. Icon Estates. Cel- 87 (Tos­cana). Made near the coastal town of Or- 85 Vermentino della Costa (Maremma). lar Selection. —M.L. betello in Tuscany, this bright white opens with tones Packaged with an appropriate nautical theme, this abv: 13.5% Price: $40 of citrus, stone fruit, cut grass and crushed almond. bright Vermentino from coastal Tuscany offers easy aro- There’s a pretty dry note that recalls the sea salt and mas of citrus, peach, pear and grapefruit. There’s a crisp Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Castello di the shoreside breezes of the Mediterranean. Colline touch of spice and dried sage on the close. —M.L. 91 Bibbione Riserva (Chianti Classico). Op- d’Italia. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA ulent and rich, this expression of Sangiovese shows a abv: 12.5% Price: $20 dark, inky color, with plush aromas of black fruit, choco- Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Vernaccia di San late, spice, leather, pipe tobacco and roasted espresso Pieve Vecchia 2011 Campo del Noce Ver- 85 Gimignano. This is the kind of easy Italian bean. The mouthfeel is dense and creamy, and the wine 87 mentino (Montecucco). Aged in stainless white that would taste delicious at an outdoor barbecue boasts very pleasurable qualities. Duggan’s Distillers. steel to maintain its freshness and fruitiness, this bright or on a hot afternoon. The wine is light, lean and loaded —M.L. Vermentino opens with zesty tones of lime, grapefruit, with fresh citrus flavors. Palm Bay International. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $28 dried sage and Golden Delicious apple. Supreme Wines Buy. —M.L. & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva di Fiz- abv: 13% Price: $13 91 zano (Chianti Classico). Made in a very re- Tommasi 2011 Poggio al Tufo Vermenti- spectable Chianti Classico style, the wine delivers fresh- Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Occhio a Vento 85 no (Maremma). Easy, fresh and simple, this ness, with tart berry notes and a bright, streamlined 87 Vermentino (Maremma). Occhio a Vento, opens with aromas of dried hay, stone fruit and hon- feel. Medallions of veal, grilled sausage or roast chicken which means “eye to the wind,” is an affordable, easy- ey, offering a thick, creamy feel on the palate. There’s a would all pair nicely with this Sangiovese-based wine drinking Vermentino that shows very crisp aromas of touch of fruit on the close. Vintus LLC. —M.L. (with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and cut grass, kiwi, citrus, green apple and peach. There’s abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Merlot). Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Rocca delle Macìe 2007 Riserva di Fiz- Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Famiglia BRUNELLO DI 91 zano (Chianti Classico). Riserva di Fizzano 88 Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). A classic pasta is always an impressive wine, and the 2007 vintage has wine (probably best with fettuccine in meat sauce), this MONTALCINO produced an especially generous, soft and rich bottling. Chianti Classico offers bright acidity and a bouquet red- Biondi-Santi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di It delivers aromas of bright cherry, soft spice, chocolate, olent of wild berries, cherries, leather and subtle spices. Montalcino). Biondi-Santi performs excep- pipe tobacco and a pretty flower accent at the back. It 94 Palm Bay International. —M.L. tionally well in elegant vintages like 2006. This wine is would pair with pork roasted with fennel seed and gar- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 balanced and fresh, with lingering notes of wild berry, lic. Palm Bay International. —M.L. white cherry, cola, spice and dark chocolate. Age this abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Famiglia wine 10 years or more. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Youthful and 88 Selection. —M.L. Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Clemente bright, this shows the lean, bright side of the Fami- abv: 13.5% Price: $900 90 VII Riserva (Chianti Classico). This opens glia Zingarelli line. You can really taste those Sangio- with characteristic aromas of wild berry, wet earth, vese characteristics thanks to lively tones of wild berry, Biondi-Santi 2007 Brunello di Montal­ white truffle and roasted coffee bean. It feels rich and raspberry, blue flower, wild mushroom and subtle spice. 93 cino. An iconic wine of Italy and deservedly so, concentrated in the mouth, but never heavy or sticky. That zesty acidity makes the wine perfect for cheesy Biondi-Santi captures the spirit of the 2007 vintage with Duggan’s Distillers . —M.L. pasta or lasagna. Palm Bay International. —M.L. his clear fruit interpretations of red cherry, blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $26 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 and cassis. The wine shows power, structure and fresh acidity that drives the long finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. Castelli del Grevepesa 2007 Panzano Carpineto 2010 Chianti Classico. Execut- Cellar Selection. —M.L. 90 (Chianti Classico). Panzano is one of the 87 ed in a streamlined and traditional fashion, this abv: 13.5% Price: $180 most prestigious subzones in Chianti Classico, and this ruby-colored wine shows tart acidity and bright fruit fla- bright wine does a great job of showing true Tuscan vors of wild berry and blueberry. Medium bodied, this Querceta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Mon- characteristics. Sangiovese’s trademark freshness is evi- would pair beautifully with lamb or pork chops. Opici 93 talcino). Compared to its basic Brunello, dent here as are its characteristic aromas of wild ber- Wines. —M.L. Querceta ups the ante with this Riserva in terms of in- ry, cherry, leather and cured meat. Duggan’s Distillers. abv: 13% Price: $18 tensity and overall power. Bold notes of cherry, spice —M.L. and leather make an appearance in this fresh and firmly abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Castelli del Grevepesa 2009 Clemente structured offering. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L. 87 VII (Chianti Classico). Dark and savory, this abv: 14% Price: $62 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva Famiglia has spicy aromas of clove, cinnamon, prune and red Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). 90 This Chi- currant. It shows freshness and medium density overall. Pietroso 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. anti Classico Riserva has deep layers of spice, choco- Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L. 92 This ruby-colored Brunello opens with notes late, wild berry, cherry, licorice and black pepper. The abv: 13.5% Price: $18 of fresh fruit, forest floor, cedar wood, exotic spice and mouthfeel is smooth, long and fresh. Palm Bay Interna- blackberry preserves. It shows a bright berry mouthfeel, tional. —M.L. Straccali 2010 Chianti Classico. Enhanced with cherry intensity and a clean, fresh finish. Enotria abv: 14% Price: $24 87 with tiny percentages of Merlot and Canaiolo, Wine Import. —M.L. this Sangiovese-dominant wine shows sweet cherry and abv: 14% Price: $NA Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di Fiz- blueberry aromas, with pretty accents of exotic spice zano (Chianti Classico). For full review see Querceta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. 90 and toasted almond. Pair this with fried chicken or page 9. Querceta delivers a beautiful Brunello with cotoletta alla Milanese. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 92 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 bold tones of ripe fruit, red cherry, spice, leather and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 vanilla bean. This bold red offers both structure and Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva Famiglia fresh acidity on the finish. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L. 90 Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese is CHIANTI abv: 14% Price: $34 enhanced with tiny percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create a fresh, balanced wine, with aro- Piccini 2011 Chianti. For full review see Domus Vitae 2007 Brunello di Montal­ mas of red fruit and savory spice. The mouthfeel is soft 85 page 13. Best Buy. 90 cino. The 2007 vintage in Montalcino has and rich with good structure and fullness. Palm Bay In- abv: 13% Price: $10 produced beautifully rich and balanced wines. This ternational. —M.L. pretty expression boats aromas of wild berry, dried gin- abv: 14% Price: $24 Piccini 2010 Chianti. Piccini shows confi- ger, leather, tobacco and a touch of espresso. There’s a 85 dence and consistency with this best-selling bright point of acidity on the close followed by a firm Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Tenuta value wine. Easy aromas of wild berry, blue violet and tannic structure. Superior Wine Selections. —M.L. 89 Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). What sets moist earth reveal its Tuscan soul. Aveniù Brands, Inc. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 this wine apart is the elegant intensity that distinguish- Best Buy. —M.L. es the bouquet. Notes of wild berries, coffee, leather, abv: 12.5% Price: $9 wet earth and pressed violets appear throughout. In the MAREMMA mouth, it has crisp cherry tones and bright acidity. Palm Straccali 2011 Chianti. Easy, slender and Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet Bay International. —M.L. 85 fresh, this bright Chianti (85% Sangiovese with 88 Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Tomma- abv: 14% Price: $22 Merlot) reveals green notes of olive and herb followed si is a celebrated producer based in Valpolicella, but in by wild berry and spice. Palm Bay International. —M.L. recent years the family has invested heavily in Marem- Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Tenuta abv: 13% Price: $13 ma, Tuscany, to produce a solid line of value-driven 89 Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). This is a wines from the region. This shows the darkness and pure expression of Sangiovese. The grapes clearly ben- Straccali 2010 Chianti. This blend of San- ripeness of this sunny region backed by Cabernet Sau- efited from the strong Tuscan sun, lending the wine a 85 giovese and Canaiolo is enhanced with a small vignon’s structure. Vintus LLC. —M.L. soft, velvety feel, with balanced acidity and freshness. percentage of Merlot. That addition heightens the abv: 13% Price: $15 Careful oak aging adds spice and richness. Palm Bay In- wine’s softness and renders a richer mouthfeel. Palm ternational. —M.L. Bay International. —M.L. Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $13 87 Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Here’s a

WineMag.com | 35 no-fuss Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany that delivers and long. Drink after 2018. Terra Moretti Trading. Cel- pair perfectly with stewed game meat, like wild boar. layers of black cherry, spice, leather and dried tobacco. lar Selection. —M.L. Vindagra USA. —M.L. The intensity is measured and the mouthfeel is medium abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14% Price: $27 in intensity, but the general ease and approach is what sets this wine apart. Vintus LLC. —M.L. Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Tos- Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Rubizzo (Tos- abv: 13% Price: $15 92 cana). For full review see page 7. 87 cana). A blend of Sangiovese and a tiny per- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 cent of Merlot, this opens with concentrated fruit and Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Rompi­ warm climate aromas of blackberry jam and cherry 87 collo (Maremma Toscana). A bright and Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (To- preserves. Palm Bay International. —M.L. easy blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this 92 scana). For full review see page 7. abv: 13% Price: $14 would taste great with grilled sausage or barbecued abv: 14% Price: $50 chicken. A vein of fresh acidity is followed by notes of black cherry, dried raspberry and mild spice. Vintus Castello Banfi 2009 Cum Laude (Tos- OTHER RED WINES cana). This blend of Cabernet, Merlot and LLC. —M.L. 91 Carpineto 2006 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Syrah shows a decadently soft side thanks to its aromas abv: 13% Price: $15 Montepulciano). Carpineto’s Vino Nobile of black cherry, tobacco, chocolate and subtle spice. It 92 Riserva is almost too much of a good thing with its rich Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Alicante delivers density and substance on the finish and would density, bold intensity and big aromas of ripe blackber- (Maremma Toscana). Notes of dried euca- pair with pasta and creamy porcini sauce. Banfi Vint- 87 ry, leather, exotic spice and tobacco. It has smooth tex- lyptus leaf, sage, savory spice and wild berry give this ners. —M.L. ture and polished tannins as well. Age 10 years or more. Tuscan red a very unique aromatic profile. The spicy abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. notes continue onto the palate, showing structure and abv: 13.5% Price: $32 length. Made from 100% Alicante Bouschet. Vintus Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. LLC. —M.L. 91 Querceta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $24 88 pretty Rosso offers sweet berry and raspber- ry aromas, with slight touches of toasted almond and Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo Renieri 2007 Regina di Renieri (Toscana). spice. The finish is fresh and crisp. Novo Mexican Spir- 87 (Maremma Toscana). This blend of Sangio- 91 This is a pure expression of Syrah that shows rich aromas of ripe fruit, leather, tobacco, crushed black its. —M.L. vese and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with slightly green abv: 14.5% Price: $16 accents of bay leaf and dried sage followed by black pepper and blackberry. The finish is long and smooth. Pair this with steak in a creamy green-pepper sauce. fruit, cherry and tobacco. The mouthfeel is smooth and Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Campomac- Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. simple. Pair it with easy meat dishes or aged cheese. cione (Morellino di Scansano). Bright and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 87 Vintus LLC. —M.L. lively, with cherry and blueberry nuances, this would abv: 13% Price: $15 Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Ser Gioveto (To- pair well with pizzas or simple cheeseburgers. It deliv- ers loads of fresh berry intensity and soft, smooth tan- Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo Alicante scana). Ser Gioveto is 80% Sangiovese with 91 nins. Palm Bay International. —M.L. (Maremma Toscana). small additions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It 86 Velvety aromas of ripe abv: 14% Price: $15 fruit, dried herb and cured meat give this Alicante a sa- has a deeply saturated ruby color and compelling aro- mas of ripe fruit, strawberry, rum cake and soft spice. vory, spicy feel. The wine delivers medium body and Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Campomaccione There’s a jammy accent in the bouquet that gives mo- intensity and would pair with meatloaf or white meat. (Morellino di Scansano). Here’s a cheerful, mentum to its rich, velvety mouthfeel. Palm Bay Inter- 87 Vintus LLC. —M.L. bright Morellino di Scansano, with jammy fruit notes of national. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24 blackberry and cherry. The quality of the fruit is plump abv: 14.5% Price: $50 and round, and the mouthfeel feels chewy and seeming- Ruffino 2008 Modus (Toscana). Modus de- ly slightly sweet. Palm Bay International. —M.L. TOSCANA abv: 14% Price: $15 livers velvety aromas of black cherry, chocolate, Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biserno 91 leather, exotic spice and pipe tobacco. This super Tus- (Toscana). 93 For full review see page 5. Cellar can blend is comprised of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvi- CENTRAL ITALY WHITES Selection. gnon and Merlot, and it does a very nice job of showing abv: 14.5% Price: $80 the soft side of those grape varieties, especially on the long finish. Icon Estates. —M.L. ORVIETO Castellare di Castellina 2007 Coniale abv: 13.5% Price: $25 92 (Tos­cana). Coniale is a pure expression of Barberani 2009 Luigi e Giovanna (Orvie- to Classico Superiore). This maybe the nic- Cabernet Sauvignon, bearing classy Tuscan character- Castelli del Grevepesa 2007 Clemente 90 est Orvieto white on the market today. Named after the istics of blackberry, dried Mediterranean brush, rose- VII Settimo (Toscana). 90 A blend of Sangio- estate’s founders, this is enhanced with a tiny percent- mary, chocolate, leather and tobacco, with a touch of vese, Merlot and Syrah, this opens with plush layers of black olive in the background. The mouthfeel is rich, age of Grechetto Muffa Nobile (botrytized sweet wine) black fruit, tobacco, chocolate and crushed black pep- for extra softness and density. The effect is superb, of- persistent and soft. Winebow. —M.L. per. Full, ripe and modern, this has lingering notes of abv: 13.5% Price: $45 fering loads of honey and stone fruit intensity. Vinifera exotic spice and toasted nut on the finish. Duggan’s Dis- Imports. —M.L. tillers. —M.L. Petra 2008 Petra (Toscana). From one of abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 92 Italy’s most important showcase designer winer- Barberani 2011 Castagnolo (Orvieto ies, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot lives I Giusti e Zanza 2009 Nemorino (Tos- Classico Superiore). Here’s a fascinating up to its super Tuscan celebrity. It is gently redolent of cana). 87 88 Dark in color and slightly bashful at blend of Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto, Drupeggio, dark chocolate, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and crushed first, this blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot shows black pepper—the bouquet’s elegant moderation is one Malvasia, Chardonnay and Riesling that offers a crisp, strength in its solid structure, with bright aromas of red bright bouquet redolent of citrus, white flower, papaya of its strongest points. The mouthfeel is rich, creamy cherry, blackberry, leather and cured meat. It would

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 and peach. Pair this wine with spicy Indian food or fresh som and peach. The mouthfeel is smooth, crisp and dry. The finish is balanced with crisp freshness. Montecas- pasta salad. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Opici Wines. —M.L. telli Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Trappolini 2010 White (Orvieto). From an Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso (Um- Umani Ronchi 2010 Exclamation Point 86 up-and-coming estate in Umbria, this blended 86 bria). An organic blend of 80% Grechetto and 85 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classi- white (Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto) opens with 20% Trebbiano, this shows big structure and density. It co). Distinguished by its bottle with a black label in the generous aromas of ripe fruit, apricot, caramel and almost feels like a red wine in the mouth because of the shape of a giant exclamation point, this fresh Verdicchio honey. The mouthfeel is thick and creamy. T. Edward creamy texture and weight. The bouquet is fragrant and shows simple lines and lively flavors of citrus, peach, Wines Ltd. —M.L. intense with citrus, honey and apricot aromas. Vintners dried hay and stone fruit. It’s a light-bodied wine with abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. tart acidity. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $10 Rocca delle Macìe 2011 White (Orvieto 85 Classico). This offers tonic citrus and kiwi Fattoria Laila 2010 Verdicchio dei Castel- aromas followed by a thin, no-fuss mouthfeel. Simple, VERDICCHIO DEI 83 li di Jesi. Slightly oxidized at first with aromas fresh and bright, it’s an easy-drinking Orvieto Classico CASTELLI DI JESI of caramel and butterscotch, the wine soon opens to re- that would pair with appetizers or fried finger foods. veal apricot, honey and dried hay. It’s an easy, genuine Palm Bay International. —M.L. Umani Ronchi 2010 Casal di Serra (Ver- wine to pair with fried onion rings. Montecastelli Selec- abv: 12% Price: $12 90 dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico tions. —M.L. Superiore). This is a bright and sophisticated Verdic- abv: 11.5% Price: $12 Barberani 2011 Vi No SO2 (Orvieto Clas- chio that would pair with the highest caliber seafood 83 sico Superiore). This shows slightly volatile including shellfish and crustaceans. It is dense and aromas of bitter almond, apple skin and apricot. Vinif- rich, with cleansing tones of citrus, yellow flower, hon- TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO ey, dried sage and a touch of smooth vanilla. Bedford era Imports. —M.L. Masciarelli 2008 Castello di Semivicoli abv: 13% Price: $25 International. —M.L. (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). What sets this wine abv: 13% Price: $16 92 apart is its gorgeous, creamy intensity on the finish. UMBRIA Pievalta 2009 San Paolo Riserva (Verdic- Made from Trebbiano, this expression shows the quali- chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This tative heights this variety can achieve. Notes of vanilla Marchesi Antinori 2010 Cervaro della 88 biodynamic and organic wine from the Barone Pizzini cream, peach cobbler, dried sage and pineapple appear Sala (Umbria). From Antinori’s Castello della 93 wine group shows linear aromas of citrus, stone fruit on the bouquet. The finish is long and full. Try aging Sala estate, this landmark white helped to shine the Cellar and crushed granite. The grapes are farmed on clay and this for five years or longer. Masciarelli Wine Co. spotlight on Umbria’s untapped enological potential. Selection. tufo rock soils, and these conditions seem to add to the —M.L. A blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto, this is smooth, abv: 14% Price: $50 general dryness and elegance of the finished wine. Vig- creamy, complex and long lasting. It offers a beautiful naioli. —M.L. bouquet of vanilla, apricot, exotic fruit and honey, with a Masciarelli 2010 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. A abv: 13.5% Price: $25 subtle touch of exotic spice. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. 87 very approachable Trebbiano, this boasts crisp Cellar Selection. —M.L. Sartarelli 2009 Tralivio (Verdicchio dei aromas of cut grass, almond skin, honey and stone fruit. 13% $NA abv: Price: 88 Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). The finish is fresh, with a smooth, creamy texture. Mas- Tralivio is an impressive wine that shows surprising ciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. Tabarrini NV White (Umbria). An interesting abv: 12.5% Price: $20 brightness and youth despite spending three years in white, this has an off-gold color, opening with 88 the bottle. The bouquet is redolent of peach, citrus, thick aromas of apricot, honey, Golden Delicious apple Pasetti 2011 Zarachè (Trebbiano honey and blanched almond. And, there’s a drying vein and pineapple. There’s a cheerful touch of zesty spice d’Abruzzo). A blend of Trebbiano with a small of chalky mineral or brimstone that adds an elegant 86 on the finish. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. percent of a little-known grape called Cococciola, this touch. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA has a fresh bouquet with lemon zest, honey and exot- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ic fruit. The wine’s easy mouthfeel makes it perfect for Lungarotti 2011 Torre di Giano (Umbria). Sartarelli 2008 Balciana (Verdicchio dei toasted crostini appetizers. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. Recently relabeled with an Umbria appella- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 87 Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Light tion instead of the smaller Torgiano designation, Torre 88 golden in color, this has ripe aromas of stone fruit, apri- di Giano is a celebrated wine that represents the light, Talamonti 2011 Trebì (Trebbiano cot, honey, grapefruit and dried herb. It has freshness fresh style of Italian whites. The blend is Vermentino, d’Abruzzo). This is a well-priced white that and structure, and the finish lasts for many long min- 85 Trebbiano and Grechetto, with a bouquet that’s redo- shows Trebbiano’s easy and fresh side, with notes of cut utes. Massanois Imports. —M.L. lent of stone fruit, citrus and dried basil. Vin Divino. grass, citrus and honey. Great for pairing with grilled abv: 15% Price: $NA Editors’ Choice. —M.L. tuna or salad. Panebianco. —M.L. 12% $15 12.5% $11 abv: Price: Umani Ronchi 2008 Plenio Riserva (Ver- abv: Price: dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). An Barberani 2011 Vermentino (Umbria). 88 oak-fermented Verdicchio, this has an off-gold color, This opens with green notes of kiwi, cut grass COLLINE PESCARESI 86 with bright aromas of lemon candy, butterscotch, hon- and citrus and finishes with lively acidity and zest. It’s a ey, dried apricot and pineapple. This is made in a big, Talamonti 2011 Trabocchetto Pecorino fresh, easy wine that shows balance and cheerful infor- structured style, making it appropriate for white meat or (Colline Pescaresi). A wonderful expression mality. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 88 spicy Thai chicken. Bedford International. —M.L. of Pecorino, this opens with a beautiful floral intensity abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $35 and fresh aromas of honey, peach, apricot and yellow rose. There’s a drying mineral note on the finish, con- Bigi 2010 Vipra Bianca (Umbria). Vipra Fattoria Laila 2010 Eklektikos (Verdic- cluding with a touch of zesty spice. Panebianco. Edi- Bianca, which means “white viper,” is a blend 86 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Supe- tors’ Choice. —M.L. of 60% Grechetto and 40% Chardonnay. The bouquet 85 riore). This opens with a thick bouquet, bearing candy- abv: 13% Price: $20 offers a delicate floral aroma, with notes of lemon blos- like aromas of lemon soda, honey and apricot preserves.

WineMag.com | 37 Barba 2011 Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). OTHER WHITE WINES the label to underline the double significance of Pecori- 87 Pecorino is among the hottest, up-and-coming no, which is the name of the grape but also means “little white varieties from Italy, and this beautiful expression Arnaldo Caprai 2011 Grecante Grechet- sheep.” It’s redolent of exotic fruit, apricot and white shows a nice balance between acidity and thick densi- 88 to (Colli Martani). What a wonderful wine to pepper, with a thick, soft, almost-viscous mouthfeel. ty. The dense, creamy structure is followed by tones of pair with spaghetti alle vongole or calamari fritti. Made MHW, Ltd. —M.L. pineapple, stone fruit, butterscotch candy and yellow from Grechetto grapes and aged only in stainless steel, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 rose. Michelangelo Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. this is fresh, youthful, tangy and crisp, with aromas of abv: 12.5% Price: $15 citrus, kiwi, honeydew and peach. Folio Fine Wine Tre Monti 2011 Vigna Rocca Albana (Ro- Partners. —M.L. 87 magna). The Albana varietal is usually made Farnese 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline Pes- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 into dessert wine, but this interesting rendition is vini- 86 caresi). Made using organically farmed fruit, fied dry. It opens with fragrant aromas of honey, peach this fresh value white opens with bright tones of citrus Casale del Giglio 2011 Chardonnay and apricot. A touch of subtle sweetness marks the fin- and green apple. Pair this wine with grilled vegetables 88 (Lazio). Produced by probaby the most pop- ish. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. or curry chicken salad. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. ular brand found in the many trattorie of Rome, this abv: 14% Price: $14 —M.L. creamy Chardonnay delivers aromas of peach, apricot abv: 12.5% Price: $11 and vanilla cream. Soilair Selection. —M.L. Capestrano 2011 Verdicchio di Matelica. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 86 There’s a distinctive element to this Verdicchio Caldora Vini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline that resembles pressed flower, honey, apricot and fresh 85 Pescaresi). From the Adriatic side of the Ital- Falesco 2008 Ferentano Roscetto pineapple. This is crisp, easy-going and straightforward. ian peninsula comes this fresh Pinot Grigio that would 88 (Lazio). Roscetto, a little-known white grape Vias Imports. —M.L. wash down seafood, vegetables or light appetizers. The from central Italy, delivers impressive structure, depth abv: 13% Price: $15 wine is crisp, clean and redolent of citrus and green ap- and intensity. As the wine sees four months of oak, this ple. Vin Divino. —M.L. like a red wine. Bright gold in color, this has gen- Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso abv: 12.5% Price: $11 erous aromas of peach, pineapple, almond, vanilla and 86 Grechetto (Todi). Made using organic fruit, spice. Winebow. —M.L. this has aromas of pineapple, apricot and candied lem- Cantina Zaccagnini 2011 Dal Tralcetto Pi- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA on. There’s a sensation of stickiness on the palate that 85 not Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). The pack- resembles ripe fruit and honey. Vintners Estate Direct aging stands out with its tiny grape cutting that’s tied to Illuminati Dino 2011 Pecorino (Contro­ Importing. —M.L. the bottle’s neck. This is a bright wine that’s redolent of 88 guerra). Pecorino is a native variety from cen- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA lemon soda, chalky candy (like Pez) and apricot. Wines tral Italy that shows a thick consistency and natural aro- Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. mas of yellow flower, butterscotch and exotic fruit. This Tre Monti 2010 Thea (Rubicone). This is abv: 12.5% Price: $17 expression is exceptionally well made because it is crisp 86 an eccentric white with thick density and fatty and dense without feeling heavy or too chewy. There’s a glycerine. It’s a bold, big white with aromas of apricot, touch of tangy green herb on the finish. Montcalm Wine pear, melon and yellow rose. It drinks like a red wine. FRASCATI SUPERIORE Importers. —M.L. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $21 Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde abv: 13.5% Price: $20 (Frascati Superiore). For full review see 88 Capestrano 2010 Verdicchio di Matelica. page 9. Caldora Vini 2010 Colle dei Venti Pecori- Verdicchio is celebrated for its crisp, green aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 no (Terre di Chieti). If you haven’t already 85 tried Pecorino, Colle dei Venti is a good place to start. mas that resemble lime, kiwi and cut grass. This expres- sion offers those notes, with an added touch of lemon Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Car- This boasts loads of peach, exotic fruit, pineapple and candy. Vias Imports. —M.L. ta Bianca (Frascati Superiore). From one pear, with a medium body, good structure and tartness. 86 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 of Lazio’s most promising wineries, this white blend Vin Divino. —M.L. of indigenous grapes delivers a fragrant bouquet of abv: 13% Price: $19 Saladini Pilastri 2011 White (Falerio peach blossom, citrus, pear and apple. The mouthfeel is dei Colli Ascolani). Made with organically smooth and silky, with a touch of crisp freshness on the Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). For 85 farmed fruit, this is light and easy, showing aromas of finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. 87 full review see page 10. citrus, white flower and peach. The mouthfeel is creamy abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $14 and slightly viscous on the finish. MHW, Ltd.Best Buy. —M.L. Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Carta Illuminati Dino 2011 Costalupo (Con- abv: 13% Price: $9 86 Nera (Frascati Superiore). Fresh and easy, 87 troguerra). A blend of Trebbiano, Passerina this delivers fruity aromas of Golden Delicious apple, and Chardonnay, this offers aromas of cut grass, citrus, Caldora Vini 2010 Chardonnay (Terre di apricot, honey and yellow flower. A drying mineral lemon zest, creamy vanilla and peach. The fresh acid- Chieti). This is a ripe Chardonnay with aro- note renders a clean, polished finish. Saranty Imports. ity makes this a perfect match for crab legs and butter 84 mas of pineapple, Golden Delicious apple and honey. —M.L. sauce. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —M.L. It’s slightly thick and sticky on the close. Vindino Wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $12 —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Principe Pallavicini 2011 Frascati Supe- Roccafiore 2010 Fiorfiore Grechetto 85 riore. This is a cheerful white from Lazio with 87 (Todi). Made from organically farmed Gre­ abundant aromas of white flower and honey. It’s easy chetto grapes, this delivers pineapple, Golden Delicious ROSATO going, slender and slightly tart on the finish. Vias Im- apple, sweet almond and apricot. It would make the ports. —M.L. perfect companion to shellfish or barbecued shrimp. Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Divus Rosato abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. 87 (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo). abv: 13.5% Price: $19 This delightful rosé offers fresh aromas of raspberry, citrus, cherry and blanched almond. The finish is cool Saladini Pilastri 2011 Offida Pecorino. 87 The packaging features a cute sheep cartoon on

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 and crisp, but the wine also delivers good structure and Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Collepiano (Sa- shows impressive smoothness, firmness and bright aro- length. Clyde Thomas. —M.L. 93 grantino di Montefalco). The 2007 vintage mas of chocolate, dark cherry and spice. Banfi Vintners. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA was beautiful in Umbria, and this proves to be a stand —M.L. out wine with enormous power, personality and depth. abv: 15% Price: $45 Domodimonti 2010 Piccolo Principe Ro- It delivers gorgeous intensity with pulses of black cher- 87 sato (Marche). A blend of mostly Sangio- ry, chocolate fudge, spice, leather and pipe tobacco. The Fongoli 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino. vese with some Cabernet Sauvignon, this fresh offer- finish is soft and rich. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar 89 Thick, savory and darkly concentrated, this inky ing opens with light aromas of raspberry, white cherry, Selection. —M.L. Sagrantino opens with aromas of ripe blackberry, prune, pressed violet and peach. Piccolo Principe has enough abv: 14.5% Price: $60 plum, cured meat and exotic spice. It shows firm, un- structure to stand up to white meat or shellfish. MHW, yielding tannins on the finish. Massanois Imports. Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. Arnaldo Caprai 2006 Collepiano (Sa- —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 92 grantino di Montefalco). A delicious expres- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA sion of Sagrantino, this delivers soft tones of chocolate, Illuminati Dino 2011 Campirosa Rosato exotic spice and toasted nut, lavished over a core of Benincasa 2004 Sagrantino di Montefal- 87 (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo). Some of Italy’s best bright cherry and blackberry. The wine shows density 88 co. Having spent 26 months in oak, this dark rosé wines come from the Abruzzo region and are made and power with characteristic tannic firmness on the and sophisticated Sagrantino opens with savory aromas with the hearty, locally grown Montepulciano grape. close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. of toast, cured meat, dark chocolate and dried fruit. This expression opens with fresh aromas of wild berry, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 It shows a thick, velvety texture, with a touch of tan- white almond and dried herb. Montcalm Wine Import- nic firmness on the finish. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. ers. Best Buy. —M.L. Moretti Omero 2005 Montefalco Sagran- —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 91 tino. What a rare and beautiful expression of abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Sagrantino. This delivers unusual tones of cola, euca- Talamonti 2011 Rosato (Cerasuolo lyptus, dried ginger, wild berry and exotic spice. The Còlpetrone 2006 Montefalco Sagrantino. 87 d’Abruzzo). A delicious rosato made from the characteristic firm tannins and structure of Sagranti- 88 This dark, inky expression of Sagrantino offers hearty Montepulciano grape, this opens with pretty aro- no appear fine and textured. Fourcade & Hecht Wine jammy aromas of strawberry jam and blackberry pre- mas of garden flower, wild berry, dried mint and white Selections. —M.L. serves, followed by notes of prune, dark chocolate and almond. This is crisp, fresh and would pair with fried abv: 14.5% Price: $45 spice. Expressive and structured, it would pair with calamari rings. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. roasted pork or grilled prime rib. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11 Còlpetrone 2005 Gold (Montefalco Sa- abv: 15.5% Price: $60 90 grantino). This expression opens with deep, Barberani 2011 Rosato (Umbria). This sophisticated aromas of cured meat, dried berry fruit Tabarrini 2006 Campo alla Cerqua (Mon- 86 food-friendly rosé has a light pink color and and exotic spice. Hearty and rich, this has a thick, tex- 88 tefalco Sagrantino). There’s a ripe note of fresh aromas of peach, grapefruit and wild berry. The tured mouthfeel. You can taste the heat and sunshine of blackberry jam at the start that is followed by savory mouthfeel is soft and fresh, showing a subtle touch of the 2005 vintage. Vias Imports. —M.L. tones of cured meat and dried tobacco. Bold, inky and sweetness. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $135 dense, this would pair with steak and green pepper abv: 12.5% Price: $NA sauce. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. Lungarotti 2009 Sagrantino di Montefal- abv: 15% Price: $NA Masciarelli 2010 Rosato (Colline Teatine). 90 co. This elegant Sagrantino boasts a dark, inky 84 Packed with jammy fruit and sweet raspberry color, with aromas of blackberry, tobacco, spice, leath- Tenuta Castelbuono 2006 Montefalco Sa- flavors, this easy rosé would make a great partner to er, tar and a touch of cherry cola. It shows power and 88 grantino. This Sagrantino by the relatively new appetizers. The finish shows flavors of wild ber- concentration but is well balanced overall. Vin Divino. brand Tenuta Castelbuono (owned by the same fami- ry and bitter almond. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. —M.L. ly that runs Ferrari sparkling wine) opens with savory abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $47 notes of cured meat, blackberry and tobacco. It feels rich and spicy on the finish. Palm Bay International. Tabarrini 2005 Colle Grimaldesco (Mon- —M.L. CENTRAL ITALY REDS 90 tefalco Sagrantino). There’s a bright hint of abv: 14.5% Price: $NA soft fruit or ripe cherry that takes away from the overall SAGRANTINO DI austerity of the Sagrantino grape. In the background, Roccafiore 2007 Sagrantino di Montefal- there are tones of tar, tobacco and spice. The mouthfeel 87 co. There’s a pungent, spice note at the start MONTEFALCO is firmly structured and finely textured as well. Tabarrini that recalls dried rosemary or sage. Superdark and con- Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagranti- USA. —M.L. centrated, this picks up with notes of dried apple skin, 95 no di Montefalco). For full review see page abv: 15% Price: $NA tar, leather, tobacco and jammy cherry. Vintners Estate 3. Cellar Selection. Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $100 Tabarrini 2004 Colle alle Macchie (Mon- abv: 14.5% Price: $27 90 tefalco Sagrantino). Dark, inky and super- Arnaldo Caprai 2006 25 Anni (Sagrantino concentrated, this masculine expression offers aromas 94 di Montefalco). Vintner Marco Caprai is the of dark berry, licorice, tar, tobacco and black asphalt. MONTEFALCO ROSSO man who has tamed the tannic, unruly beast that is Sa- There’s a touch of mineral dryness in the mouth, with Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Montefalco Rosso. grantino. Having carefully aged for two years in oak, this loads of heat and power. Pair it with aged cheese or suc- 90 For full review see page 8. has become deeply elegant and sophisticated. Aromas culent steak. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23 of chocolate, exotic spice, dark berry, leather, tobacco abv: 15% Price: $NA and dried prune leave a lasting impression. Age for 10 Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Montefalco Rosso. years or more. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selec- Tenuta Alzatura 2007 Sagrantino di Mon- 90 The modern Arnaldo Caprai estate sits at the tion. —M.L. 90 tefalco. Tenuta Alzatura is part of the Cecchi base of the hill occupied by the quaint town of Monte- abv: 15% Price: $100 Family Estates (well-known producers in Tuscany), and falco in Umbria. Montefalco Rosso is a wine that gives its foray into Umbria has added depth and variety to Umbria a chance to strut its stuff with Sangiovese (a an already rich portfolio of wines. The Sagrantino grape grape usually associated with Tuscany). This expression

WineMag.com | 39 is soft, velvety and packed with red fruit. Folio Fine wild berry, with background tones of tobacco and worn Barberani 2007 Polvento Villa Monticel- Wine Partners. —M.L. leather. Massanois Imports. —M.L. 90 li (Lago di Corbara). This blend of Sangio- abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $NA vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with bright aromas of cola, licorice, black fruit and tobacco. It’s an Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Riserva (Montefal- Fongoli 2008 Montefalco Rosso. There’s a elegant red wine with enough structure to pair with 90 co Rosso). Aged 20 months in French oak, 87 savory element here of dried ham or beef jerky, roast pork or thinly cut lamb shanks. Vinifera Imports. this offers loads of spicy zest and crispness, followed backed by blackberry, prune, leather and spice. It shows —M.L. by notes of blackberry, leather, cola and tobacco. Try it a touch of bright acidity on the close that would help abv: 14.5% Price: $40 with lamb in fresh mint sauce. Folio Fine Wine Part- it pair with cheesy pasta dishes. Massanois Imports. ners. —M.L. —M.L. Falesco 2009 Il Falesco (Umbria). A blend abv: 14.5% Price: $46 abv: 14% Price: $NA 90 of Merlot and Sangiovese, this delivers beautiful aromas of chocolate, spice, tobacco, ripe fruit and black Moretti Omero 2007 Montefalco Rosso. Tenuta Castelbuono 2008 Montefalco cherry. It is densely concentrated and plump, with a vel- 90 This is a nicely balanced Montefalco Rosso 87 Rosso. Dark and savory, yet easy-drinking, this vety mouthfeel and long finish. Pair it with oven-roasted comprised of organically farmed Sangiovese, Sagran- is redolent of blackberry, prune, leather, tobacco and ex- lasagna. Winebow. —M.L. tino and Merlot. It would pair well with grilled sau- otic spice. It would pair with roast chicken or spicy pork. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA sage and onions or oven-roasted pasta—hearty dishes Palm Bay International. —M.L. that would match the dark fruit, spice and tobacco-like abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Lungarotti 2007 Toralco (Umbria). This flavors. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections.Editors’ 90 superconcentrated red delivers savory aromas Choice. —M.L. of cured meat, wild mushroom, exotic spice with bold abv: 14% Price: $25 OTHER UMBRIAN REDS fruit tones of prune, plum and dried blackberry. It’s a Lungarotti 2007 Rubesco Riserva Vigna bold wine that would pair with fire-grilled steak. Vin Di- Benincasa 2007 Montefalco Rosso. Monticchio (Torgiano). This wine’s most out- vino. —M.L. There’s a touch of dark spice and cured meat at 92 88 standing quality is the elegant and delicate manner with abv: 14% Price: $NA the start that is followed by fruitier notes of blackberry which the bouquet slowly reveals itself. This vineyard- and plum. This shows smooth tannins and nice richness, Falesco 2010 Merlot (Umbria). Falesco’s designate wine is a traditional blend of Sangiovese and making it a good pairing partner to potato gnocchi with Riccardo Cotarella makes some of Italy’s best Canaiolo, opening with subtle aromas of red cherry, 89 gorgonzola cheese sauce. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. Merlot. His talents are evident in this easygoing expres- dried violet, moist earth, vanilla and cured meat. Vin —M.L. sion from Umbria, which is rich and succulent, bearing Divino. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $57 dark tones of blackberry, leather and sweet chocolate. Winebow. —M.L. Fongoli 2007 Riserva (Montefalco Ros- Falesco 2008 Marciliano Cabernet (Um- abv: 14% Price: $NA so). There’s a rustic element here that recalls 88 bria). Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon show smoked bacon or cured beef, with loads of ripe fruit like 91 Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Anima Umbra (Um- a united front with an authentic Italian feel. Umbria’s blackberry and maraschino cherry. This rich, plump red bria). A blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, this Marciliano is a dense and rich red wine, with savory aro- 88 delivers the intensity and staying power to pair with suc- is a richly concentrated red that would pair with pork, mas of blackberry, cured meat, dried sage, leather, to- culent cuts of beef. Massanois Imports. —M.L. lamb or hearty lasagna with beef sauce. An easy dinner bacco and dark chocolate. The wine’s tannins are firm abv: 13.5% Price: $NA wine to share with friends, it is redolent of blackberry, and dense, but not at all sharp or thorny. Winebow. spice and cured meat. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best —M.L. Lungarotti 2010 Montefalco Rosso. A Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA —M.L. 88 blend of 75% Sangiovese, with additions of abv: 14% Price: $13 Merlot and Sagrantino, this opens with spicy aromas of Lungarotti 2005 San Giorgio (Umbria). cinnamon and crushed clove, with background tones of Falesco 2010 Vitiano (Umbria). You can’t This shows beautiful balance and intensity, with blackberry, cherry cola and black licorice. Pair this with 91 beat this low price. No wonder Vitiano is a con- notes of black fruit, espresso, leather and a touch of 88 veal and wild mushrooms. Vin Divino. —M.L. stant feature on wine lists at restaurants across Rome. drying mineral. The blend is Sangiovese, Canaiolo and abv: NA Price: $38 This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and San- Cabernet Sauvignon. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $63 giovese offers spicy oak notes, with suggestions of ripe Tabarrini 2007 Montefalco Rosso. Monte- cherry, blackberry and spice. Winebow. Best Buy. 88 falco Rosso is primarily Sangiovese with Sagran- Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Phi Natura Armo- —M.L. tino, with additions of other red varieties from central nia (Umbria). Cabernet Franc and Montep- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Italy. This delivers a strong berry personality with notes 91 ulciano join forces to produce a bold, masculine wine of cherry and dried raspberry, backed by notes of wet Lungarotti 2009 Rubesco (Torgiano). A with a velvety soft style and lasting notes of chocolate, earth, leather and spice. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, tobacco, blackberry and spice. There’s a touch of Cab- 88 abv: NA Price: $NA this opens with a tangy bouquet that’s redolent of wild ernet greenness on the close that recalls dried rosemary berry, dried ginger, cola and licorice. Easy drinking and or sage. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. Còlpetrone 2008 Montefalco Rosso. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 smooth, this has fresh acidity on the finish. Vin Divino. 87 Owned by the larger wine group Saiagricola, —M.L. Còlpetrone is a solid estate with large vineyard holdings Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Phi Natura Armo- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 in the Montefalco area. This dark, inky offering shows nia (Umbria). Bold, thick and chewy, this mas- aromas of blackberry, spice, leather and moist pipe to- 91 Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Terra di Confine culine blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Franc de- bacco. Vias Imports. —M.L. (Umbria). Aged 12 months in French oak, this livers lasting aromas of pipe tobacco, cinnamon, jammy 88 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 has creamy aromas of chocolate fudge and cinnamon. blackberry and dried herb. The finish is driven by a soft, Made by Umbria’s Maravalle family, this blend of 80% chocolate-fudge-like aftertaste. Votto Vines Importing. Fongoli 2009 Montefalco Rosso. Com- Montepulciano and 20% Merlot is easy going and crisp, —M.L. posed of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 with loads of fresh fruit flavors. Votto Vines Importing. Montepulciano, this offers pretty tones of spice and —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Terra di Confine sweetness on the palate, followed by a thickly textured tones of rose petal, pink grapefruit and bitter almond. 88 (Umbria). Comprised of mostly Montepul- finish. Winebow. —M.L. Angelini Wine. —M.L. ciano with 20% Merlot, this shows sweet tones of ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $17 cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and tobacco. It’s simple and straightforward, with clean, velvety lines. Votto Roccafiore 2009 Rosso Melograno (Um- Vines Importing. —M.L. 86 bria). A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% MONTEPULCIANO abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Montepulciano, this opens with savory aromas of to- D’ABRUZZO bacco, leather, cola, cherry cola and white licorice. The Falesco 2009 Merlot (Umbria). A great trat- mouthfeel is fresh, light and slightly tart on the finish. Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Vigneto Edoar- 87 toria wine, this smooth Merlot opens with aro- Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. 90 do (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This offers mas of ripe fruit and a touch of cured meat. It’s a full- abv: 13% Price: $12 layers of toasted nut, chocolate, jammy black fruit and bodied expression with easy fruit flavors and a touch of tobacco. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth, with a good bright acidity on the close. Winebow. —M.L. Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Sangio’vese (Um- deal of richness and density to drive it forward over the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 86 bria). This easy expression of Sangiovese offers palate. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. an unusual set of aromas that spans from sweet Christ- abv: 13% Price: $60 Falesco 2009 Red (Assisi). This easygoing mas spice to blue flower to green herb. A touch of cola 87 blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and or eucalyptus gives the wine a bright, vertical lift. Votto Pasetti 2007 Tenutarossa (Montepulcia- Merlot would make a perfect companion to a hearty Vines Importing. —M.L. 90 no d’Abruzzo). Rich and chewy, this comes pasta dish like bucatini all’Amatriciana or spaghetti alla abv: 13.5% Price: $14 with bold aromas of black fruit, plum, licorice, tobacco carbonara. It delivers red cherry, leather and tobacco and leather. It’s slightly rustic in places, but its overall notes over a clean, bright mouthfeel. Winebow. —M.L. personality and feel is intriguing and pleasurable. Old abv: 13.5% Price: $NA MARCHE Bridge Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50 Colli di Serrapetrona 2006 Robbione Falesco 2008 Sangiovese (Umbria). (Marche). Robbione is a pure expression of Plump and rich, this shows warm climate aro- 90 Talamonti 2010 Tre Saggi (Montepulcia- 87 Vernaccia Nera—a red grape variety found in central mas of blackberry preserves, ripe cherry, dark cola and no d’Abruzzo). A great wine to pair with gour- Italy—that is strongly redolent of white pepper straight 89 cigar tobacco. There’s a fine touch of exotic spice on the met hamburgers or grilled Italian sausages, this has a out of a pepper mill. Unique, intense and loaded with close. Winebow. —M.L. smooth mouthfeel that’s enhanced by layers of sweet personality, try this with grilled steak in green pepper abv: 13.5% Price: $NA blackberry, tobacco, cinnamon and espresso bean. The sauce. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. finish is soft and velvety. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Roccafiore 2008 Prova d’Autore (Um- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 bria). A blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano 87 Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). For full re- and Sagrantino, this is a rich, chewy red with savory aro- Caldora Vini 2007 Yume (Montepulciano 90 view see page 8. d’Abruzzo). Notes of raw cherry, coffee syrup, mas of cured meat and spice. There’s a touch of ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $57 88 fruit and even a note on the finish that resembles cin- ripe blackberry and moist pipe tobacco all play major roles on the bouquet. This is boldly extracted and rich, namon or ground nutmeg. Vintners Estate Direct Im- Domodimonti 2008 Il Messia (Marche). A with toasted espresso and almond notes on the finish. porting. —M.L. plump blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Monte­ 88 Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25 pulciano, this opens with a sweet cherry flavor, followed abv: 13.5% Price: $24 by notes of tobacco, leather and cola. Pair this with pork Roccafiore 2008 Rosso (Umbria). This sausages. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. Cantina Zaccagnini 2009 Dal Tralcetto 87 Sangiovese-based red has a light, ruby color and abv: 14% Price: $25 offers fresh aromas of violet, wet earth, wild mushroom 88 (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Dal Tralcetto shows the softness of Montepulciano, with aromas of and leather. Delicate and streamlined, it has fresh acid- Domodimonti 2008 Picens (Marche). This sweet cherry, prune, tobacco, cinnamon and toasted ity that would pair well with simple pasta and Parmigia- is a bold blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese, 87 nut. A tiny grape cutting is affixed to the neck of the no. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, offering sweet aromas bottle as a throwback to old farming traditions. Wines abv: 14% Price: $16 of red cherry, blackberry, spice and pipe tobacco. The Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. ripeness of the wine is very attractive—thanks to a play- Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Elcione (Umbria). abv: 13% Price: $17 ful touch of sweetness on the finish MHW, Ltd. —M.L. 87 A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet, this abv: 14% Price: $18 delivers sassy aromas of leather and cinnamon, with Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Chronicon (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Montepulcia- ripe, pulpy fruit. There’s a touch of cherry that gives Domodimonti 2010 Monte Fiore Sangio- 88 no d’Abruzzo wines are making steady gains in popu- the wine a soft, velvety finish. Votto Vines Importing. vese (Marche). Slender and compact, this has 86 larity in foreign markets thanks to the softness and the —M.L. a light ruby color, with lively aromas of wild berry and creaminess of their fruit flavors. This one has soft and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 bitter almond. The acidity shows a tight, nervous qual- yielding tannins, with aromas that are intensely redolent ity. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Elcione (Umbria). of black cherry, coffee and tobacco. Wines Unlimited, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 This is the quintessential red meat wine that Inc. —M.L. 13% $25 delivers plump aromas of dark berry, leather, spice Angelini 2011 Pergola Rosso (Marche). abv: Price: and black pepper. There’s a touch of jammy fruit in the This opens with perfumed aromas of blue flow- 85 Farnese 2010 Casale Vecchio (Monte­ mouth but enough acidity to break through succulent er, cherry and wild berry. Soft and simple, it has a pret- pulciano d’Abruzzo). Sometimes you need cuts of lamb or beef. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. ty floral finish of red rose and violet. Angelini Wine. 88 a sturdy wine for a decadent TV night with pepperoni abv: 14.5% Price: $19 —M.L. and sausage pizza. This velvety-rich Montepulciano fits abv: 12.5% Price: $17 La Carraia 2008 Tizzonero (Umbria). This the bill perfectly, thanks to its aromas of spice, blackber- 86 opens with savory, slightly beefy aromas of bres- Angelini 2010 Pergola Rosso (Marche). ry, cinnamon and moist tobacco. Empson (USA) Ltd. aola and ripe blackberry. There seems to be a touch of Light and lean, this could easily be labeled a —M.L. 83 abv: 13% Price: $18 rosé. The aromas reinforce that notion thanks to the

WineMag.com | 41 Caldora Vini 2011 Montepulciano perfect to pair against cheesy pasta dishes. Vin Divino. Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Char- 87 d’Abruzzo. Perfectly suited for home-cooked Best Buy. —M.L. 83 donnay (Mendoza). Mild varnish and lac- comfort meals like lasagna or meatloaf, this is rich, abv: 12.5% Price: $11 quer aromas stem from the oak influence, and there’s dense and soft, with endnotes of blackberry, cherry and not a lot of fruit to offset those notes. It feels plump tobacco. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. Farnese 2011 Terre di Chieti. Toasted al- and a bit clumsy, with briny citrus flavors leading to a abv: 13% Price: $11 86 mond, wild berry, plump cherry and wild rasp- pickled, resiny finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. berry open the nose on this Sangiovese, which has abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Pasetti 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. the varietal’s characteristic freshness as well. Empson 87 Definitely on the warm and jammy side, this (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Chardonnay easygoing Montepulciano delivers aromas of black­ abv: 12.5% Price: $11 82 (Mendoza). After light scents of butter and berry, dried fruit and cured meat. This would pair well spiced apple surface, the wine turns briny and pickled, with roast pork stuffed with prunes. Old Bridge Cellars. Pasetti 2010 Diecicoppe (Colline Pesca- both in aromas and flavors. It feels fleshy on the -fin —M.L. 86 resi). A blend of Montepulciano, Merlot and ish, with briny stone-fruit and citrus flavors. The Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Cabernet, this offers savory aromas of leather, tobacco, Group. —M.S. spice and dark fruit. There’s a tangy note of cured meat abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Capestrano 2010 Montepulciano and teriyaki on the close. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. 86 d’Abruzzo. The flagship red grape in Abruz- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Telteca 2011 Roble Chardonnay (Men­ zo is Montepulciano, and this expression shows a light 81 doza). A nutty apricot aroma marks the nose. and informal side to the native variety. Soft, velvety tan- Angelini 2007 Riserva Sangiovese (Col- It feels creamy and sticky, with sweet vanilla and baked nins frame the plump black-cherry fruit. Vias Imports. 85 li Pesaresi). This opens with ripe aromas of fruit flavors. With time it turns more cloying. Fleischer —M.L. candied fruit and sweet prune. There’s a touch of crisp International Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 cherry cola, with a general tartness on the finish. Ange- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 lini Wine. —M.L. Farnese 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. abv: 14% Price: $25 Trivento 2011 Reserve Chardonnay 86 Stock your pantry with this wine to pair with 81 (Mendoza). Light on the nose, it feels tangy take-out pizza or easy pasta dishes at home. This de- Angelini 2008 Sangiovese (Colli Pesa- in the mouth, with sharp flavors of mustard, brine and livers soft tannins and a sweet cherry flavor. Empson 84 resi). Almost rosé-like in color and personality, lime. This finishes with a pickled flavor. Banfi Vintners. (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. this light, Sangiovese-based wine delivers bright acid- —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11 ity and layers of wild berry and pink flower. Angelini abv: 14% Price: $11 Wine. —M.L. Talamonti 2010 Modà (Montepulcia- abv: NA Price: $17 86 no d’Abruzzo). Jammy fruit, raspberry pre- SAUVIGNON BLANC serves, espresso, leather and tobacco form the nose of Pulenta Estate 2011 VI Sauvignon Blanc this dense, bold Montepulciano. The tannins are soft, ARGENTINA (Mendoza). There aren’t many Argentine Sau- smooth and velvety. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. 87 vignon Blancs that make a statement, so this is com- abv: 13% Price: $11 CHARDONNAY mendable for showing a lightly citric and minerally nose Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Chardonnay in front of fresh, citrusy flavors of lime, tangerine and OTHER RED WINES 87 (Mendoza). Walnut, banana, apple and vanilla grapefruit. More friendly and easygoing than intense aromas are nicely presented. The palate holds its own or pungent, it fades quick and easy on the finish. Paul Farnese 2007 Opi Riserva (Colline Tera- as far as structure, while the melon, apple and honey Hobbs Wines. —M.S. 91 mane). This hearty red is packed tight with su- flavors are friendly. This is a better-than-you’d-expect abv: 12.5% Price: $16 perintense aromas of black fruit, leather, tobacco and Chardonnay for everyday drinking. Pasternak Wine Im- roasted espresso bean. Bold, big and meaty, this is rich- ports. Best Buy. —M.S. Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Sauvi- ly extracted and inky dark. Pair it with aged Pecorino abv: 13.5% Price: $12 84 gnon Blanc (Mendoza). Oyster shell and cheese. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. matchstick aromas come with distant peach and mel- abv: 14% Price: $35 Trapiche 2011 Broquel Chardonnay on notes. Feels good but rudimentary, with peach and 85 (Mendoza). This has apple and nectarine aro- papaya flavors that end soft and easy. Drink this imme- Rontana 2008 Sangiovese (Colli di mas that are a touch briny. It shows good acidity and diately for maximum zest and freshness. San Francisco 87 Faenza). This Sangiovese from central Italy of- mouthfeel, with flavors of apple, peach and even some Wine Exchange. —M.S. fers abundant freshness and pretty aromas of wild berry, green bean. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 almond, cola and dried ginger. There’s a touch of dried abv: 14% Price: $15 herb and licorice that gives the wine a bright, buoyant Bodega Norton 2011 Sauvignon Blanc finish. Imports Inc. —M.L. Trapiche 2011 Finca Las Palmas Char- 84 (Mendoza). A touch of minerality on the nose abv: 13.5% Price: $17 84 donnay (Mendoza). This is oakier and more comes with apple and lemon aromas. It feels fleshy, with expensive than prior Trapiche Chardonnays, but it’s not pulpy white-fruit flavors that end with honeydew and Tenuta Amalia 2010 Bio-571 (Sangiovese necessarily better. It smells like a rubber band and a papaya notes. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 87 di Romagna). Made with organically farmed barrel, bearing resiny flavors of mango and melon, with abv: 13% Price: $9 Sangiovese, this pretty red delivers savory aromas of lots of sweet oak and vanilla tones. The Wine Group. spice, cola and steak sauce, with cool, fruit intensity and —M.S. Funky Llama 2011 Sauvignon Blanc bright acidity on the finish. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25 83 (Mendoza). Papaya, lime and peach aromas abv: 12.5% Price: $14 are basic but clean. The palate, too, feels basic and Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Chardonnay clean. Flavors of orange and citrus pith lead to a fleshy, Caldora Vini 2011 Terre di Chieti. Avail- 84 (Mendoza). Apple and white fruit aromas sweet-tasting finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 86 able at an attractively low price, this Sangiovese set up a balanced, reasonably full palate, with banana, abv: 13% Price: $8 shows easy berry aromas with soft accents of blue flower creamy oak, vanilla and apple flavors. It feels solid and and diced almond. The wine’s natural freshness makes it round, with a clean finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvi- abv: 13% Price: $10 83 gnon Blanc (Mendoza). This smells a bit oily

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 and like a match, with additional aromas of white fruits Toneles del Sur 2011 Torrontés (Men- CABERNET FRANC and corn flakes. It feels pulpy but just crisp enough, 82 doza). Mellow and melony up front, with a with pithy grapefruit and sweet papaya flavors. It tastes plump, bland palate featuring mealy melon and peach Lagarde 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet candied on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. flavors. The finish has a touch of bitterness. Wine Brin- 87 Franc (Luján de Cuyo). Earthy plum and abv: 13.5% Price: $12 dis Importers. —M.S. berry aromas are suggestive of Bordeaux, but the brown abv: 13.2% Price: $15 sugar and baked fruit angle is all Mendoza. Snappy acid- ity helps the wine stay trim, while linear raspberry and TORRONTÉS Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Torron- cherry flavors are red in character. This is gripping with tés (Mendoza). Trapiche 2011 Broquel Torrontés (Cafay- 81 This is not a consistent wine an acidic push to the finish. Dangerous Wine Group. year to year. Some vintages are true and vital, but this ate). Every year this wine seems to get better. —M.S. 89 is clunky, with flavors of honeyed white fruits and bitter This vintage deals notes of lemon pie, melon and lychee abv: 14.2% Price: $29 almond skins. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. on the bouquet, which is followed by a palate that’s oily abv: 13.5% Price: $12 yet racy. Flavors of lychee and pineapple are true to Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Reserva Torrontés, while green herb and lime notes stir things 86 Cabernet Franc (Agrelo). Black fruit, leather up. The Wine Group. —M.S. OTHER WHITE WINE and licorice aromas are draped all over this heavyweight abv: 14% Price: $15 Cabernet Franc. It feels tannic, with aggressive flavors Martino 2011 Old Vine Pedro Ximénez of bullish black fruit. This is flavorful at every point, but Matias Bertona Wines 2011 Inspiratto 83 (Mendoza). This is briny and oily on the nose, hard and abrasive in feel. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 87 from the Andes Torrontés (Mendoza). with grapefruit aromas. It feels citrusy in the mouth, abv: 14% Price: $17 Vanilla cookie and stone fruit aromas set up a creamy, with bitter nut and citrus flavors that turn pithy and mostly fresh-feeling palate, with flowery papaya and more briny on the finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Pulenta Estate 2009 Gran XI Cabernet green banana flavors. It’s tropical in style, with com- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 82 Franc (Mendoza). Extremely herbal and veg- plexity and length to the finish. Wine Brindis Import- etal, this is also saturated and syrupy on the palate. Fla- ers. —M.S. vors of green bean, mushroom, tomato paste and baked abv: 13.3% Price: $18 BONARDA berry are undeniable. It hints at something better but requires too much patience to find it. Paul Hobbs Trapiche 2010 Broquel Bonarda (Men­ Trivento 2011 Reserve Torrontés (Men- Wines. —M.S. doza). Saturated and pitch black to look at, and doza). Clean and basic up front, with peach 89 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 87 not much different in scent. This is a fully extracted, and white flower aromas. It feels juicy, with just enough modern Bonarda that’s well made and generous. Full- body, bearing fruit salad flavors of nutmeg-dusted white bodied wine lovers should like the meaty, dark berry grapes, apple and peach. It turns dry and almondy on CABERNET SAUVIGNON and cocoa flavors. Tannic but layered on the finish. The the finish. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. Wine Group. —M.S. Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Caber- abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $15 90 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola, tree bark and rooty aromas become more oaky and toasted with Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Torrontés (Salta). Gardel 2010 Vendimia Especial Bonarda airing. It feels solid and correct, with balanced tannins This is extremely aromatically pungent, with 87 (Mendoza). This is fresh, showing plenty of and acids that stage red plum, cassis, coffee and toasted notes of honeysuckle, melon and lychee blasting up 88 pop on the fruit-filled bouquet. It feels wide and jammy, flavors. Staying toasty and composed on the finish, this from the glass. It shows body and an oily quality, with yet grabby and dry because of its firm tannins. Typical of is a ripe Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers. The Wine orange, kumquat and peach flavors. This is round, Bonarda, it’s full of ripe black-fruit flavors and licorice, Group. —M.S. showing a citrus rind flavor on the finish. Winesellers while the structured finish makes for a good ending. abv: 14% Price: $25 Ltd. —M.S. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $20 Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Mendoza). A bit rustic and briary, Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Torrontés Alfredo Roca 2010 Dedicación Personal this has a foresty aroma along with a rooty note and a (Mendoza). Tropical and friendly, this feels 85 Bonarda (Mendoza). This is earthy, rubbery hint of cola. It feels big and acidic, but the cassis, black- a little bulky and chunky, but with enough acidity for 86 and big on the nose, which isn’t unusual for Bonarda. berry and herbal flavors are authentic and hit firmly. balance. Flavors of citrus and mango are medium in- The tannins clamp down on the palate, tasting roasted, The finish is long, mildly herbal and juicy, with weight tense, while the finish is soft. Drink soon. Quintessential with hickory and smoked meat flavors sticking out. It’s and power to spare. The Wine Group. —M.S. Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. dense but not very active on the finish. Hand Picked abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 13% Price: $10 Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Reser- Callia 2011 Reservado Torrontés (San 88 va Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola, Juan). This is neutral on the nose except for 84 Gardel 2011 Colección Bonarda (Mendo- root beer and cherry aromas come with controlled heat. green banana and white grapefruit hints. It feels melo- za). Red and black fruit aromas open the nose. The palate is dense and chewy, with pumped-up tannins ny, with flavors that match the mouthfeel in the form of 86 The palate feels healthy, with tight tannins and charg- supporting very ripe-tasting cassis and cooked plum fla- melon and nectarine. This is flabby on the finish, need- ing flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Pair this with vors. It’s toasty and spicy on the firm finish. Bedford In- ing more cut and zest. Palm Bay International. —M.S. a burger, pasta or pizza. Frontier Wine Imports. Best ternational. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Buy. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $21 abv: 13.2% Price: $11 Telteca 2011 Uma Colección Torrontés Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Bar- (Mendoza). Oily and mustardy on the nose, 82 Argento 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). This 88 rancas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon then inconistent and not real clear on the palate. It smells rubbery and like cured meat, and it’s not (Mendoza). This smells familiar and solid, with black- tastes like briny melon and apricot, turning a bit flat on 83 very fruity. It clunks across the palate with squeaky tan- berry, licorice and dark cherry aromas. It feels medium the finish. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. nins, a lot of weight and foresty, herbal plum flavors. bodied for a high-end Argentine Cabernet, with healthy abv: 13% Price: $9 Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. acidity and probing tannins. The flavors of blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 43 and raspberry finish crisp and slightly citric. T.G.I.C. and molasses flavors. Finishes bitter, dark and herbal, ry and black cherry. This is youthful and more fruit fo- Importers. —M.S. with gripping tannins. Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S. cused than the oakier DJN 2006 Reserva Malbec. The abv: NA Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $12 Sorting Table. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32 Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvi- Michel Torino 2010 Don David Finca La 88 gnon (Mendoza). For full review see page 9. 82 Urquiza #8 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafay- Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Mal- —M.S. ate). A green and herbal style of northern Argentine 92 bec (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see abv: 14% Price: $15 Cabernet Sauvignon, this smells like tobacco, green page 6. bean, bell pepper and oregano. Quite tannic in feel, it abv: 14.5% Price: $47 Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Caber- bears a roasted herb flavor, finishing savory but green. 87 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Straightforward Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Malbec aromas of black currant and dark plum help create a abv: 14% Price: $20 92 (Mendoza). Smooth and polished, this bears rich style of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a syrupy palate cola, earth, blackberry and floral aromas. It shows pow- that’s made firmer by driving tannins. It features a lot Canoas 2010 Estate Collection Cabernet er and precision, with silky tannins, integrated acid- of chocolate, baked black-plum and mild herbal flavors. 81 Sauvignon (San Juan). Grapy and jammy ity and deep flavors of berry, leather and herb. This is It’s ultraconcentrated, and more driving than discern- smelling, this feels narrow and high in acid, bearing slightly minty, smoky and spicy on the back end, where ing. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. plum and tart cherry flavors that turn more sour with fine oak takes charge. Drink now–2015. The Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $20 time. The finish is tomatoey and abrupt. HGC Imports. Group. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Salvatore Principe 2011 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 12.8% Price: $10 87 gnon (Mendoza). At first, this smells charred Bodega Norton 2009 Privada Malbec and meaty, but blackberry, leather and roasted plum Familia Cassone 2011 Finca La Florencia 91 (Mendoza). Spunky right off the bat, this has aromas soon sneak out. This runs big, with good acid- 80 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is floral and fresh fruit aromas that fall squarely into the ity and manageable tannins. Flavors of cherry and cas- saturated, flat and flabby on the nose, with pudgy black- wild berry category. It feels lively on the palate, with sis are lively and familiar. Prestige Wine Group. Best berry aromas. It has a static, jammy mouthfeel, tasting spiked acidity but enough weight and depth to absorb Buy. —M.S. overspiced and heavily oaked. Bedford International. it. This tastes like a mix of plum, blackberry and choco- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 —M.S. late, and the finish darkens up with notes of pepper and abv: 14.5% Price: $12 spice. Drink now–2017. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Menduco 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 86 vignon (Uco Valley). Penetrating cola, mint and black fruit aromas are probing. It feels tight and MALBEC Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Col- eccion Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendo- gripping, tasting forward and correct for the variety, Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Sin- 91 with bell pepper, black fruit and spice flavors. This is ro- za). The bouquet is stylish and rooty, with black-fruit gle Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For bust, with good flavors and quality fruit. Carolina Wine 95 and chocolate scents leading the charge. It shows good full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50 structure, meaning it’s full but not too thick or jammy. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Flavors of ripe blackberry and plum are generous and a Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmien- touch rubbery, while the finish is full and mildly tannic. Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvi- to Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). Bedford International. —M.S. gnon (Mendoza). This is dark, smoky and 94 86 For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 minty at first, turning more earthy, leathery and warm abv: 14.5% Price: $50 as it opens. It feels big and sort of tough, with smoked, Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Malbec roasted flavors of savory berry and rooty cola. It finishes Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia 91 (Mendoza). This is a cuddly, jammy, ripe Mal- tannic and rubbery. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. 94 Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). For full re- bec with maple, blackberry and oak aromas. It feels abv: 13.5% Price: $12 view see page 5. Editors’ Choice. weighty and lush, with large-scale boysenberry, black- abv: 14.5% Price: $90 berry and blueberry flavors. It turns a little soft and ba- Alta Vista 2010 Premium Cabernet Sau­ sic on the finish, but there’s no griping about this wine’s 85 vignon (Mendoza). Hard, minty, oaky and Doña Silvina 2007 Reserva Malbec (Men- purity and fruit content. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. even a touch chemical on the nose, then tough as nails 93 doza). Big and modern, this has simmering abv: 14.5% Price: $20 in the mouth. Tastes resiny and minty, with black fruit aromas of turned earth, graham cracker, leather, plum flavors and extreme tannic clamp. Chocolaty tasting on and blackberry. It feels megasaturated but well bal- Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Malbec the finish, which retains the wine’s hard personality. anced, with hugely ripe black-fruit, chocolate and toast- 91 (Mendoza). A high-end Malbec experience Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S. ed marshmallow flavors. Warm and nearly Port-like, at a reasonable price, this boasts rich aromas of cola, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 this is full of toffee and fudge notes on the finish. It’s a graphite and boysenberry that leap from the glass. The flashy, polished, 21st-century red wine. Mistica Wines palate is bright and just thick enough, with wild berry, Finca El Origen 2011 Reserva Caber- LLC. —M.S. cherry, plum and oak-based flavors. Another whack of net Sauvignon (Uco Valley). 85 Leathery ber- abv: 15% Price: $69 oak, along with vanilla, chocolate and tobacco flavors, ry aromas are earthy and suggest notes of cured meat graces the finish. Drink now–2015. The Wine Group. and cheese. It gets tougher and more tannic the more it Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Sin- —M.S. breathes, with black fruit, herb and spice flavors. Gen- 93 gle Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For abv: 14% Price: $25 erous but rough in feel, it has a powerful, medium-long full review see page 5. finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50 Cielo y Tierra 2006 Don Juan Nahuel abv: 14% Price: $12 90 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This is floral, Cielo y Tierra 2007 Don Juan Nahuel Mal- exotic and candied smelling, with supporting notes of Alta Vista 2010 Classic Cabernet Sau- 92 bec (Mendoza). This opens with persuasive dusty cocoa and toasty oak. It feels saturated and inky, 83 vignon (Mendoza). Somewhat murky and aromas of wild berry and cassis before cola and leather with a density that borders on too much. Roasted ber- smelling of compost and green berry fruit. Feels full notes enter. It’s a powerfully built Malbec with bright ry, foresty spice, herb and jammy berry flavors set up and wide, with a hard palate containing milk chocolate acidity, strong bones and pure, bold flavors of blackber- the woody, menthol-flavored finish. From Gustavo San-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 taoalla, an Argentine musician and composer. The Sort- mark the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. oak tone and flavors of raspberry, chocolate and grainy ing Table. —M.S. —M.S. wood. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $41 abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Lagarde 2009 Primeras Viñas Malbec Bodega Norton 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Finca Flichman 2011 Reserva Malbec 90 (Luján de Cuyo). The jammy, sweet berry 87 Ripe red-fruit flavors are nice and normal, while 82 (Mendoza). Nervy plum and wet-dog aromas aromas are suggestive of blueberry, cookie and graham the palate feels fresh and lifted by balancing acids. Fo- set up a firm palate that’s herbal tasting. Licorice, me- cracker. It feels condensed and a bit reduced, with mild cused raspberry and plum flavors are clean and don’t dicinal berry and green notes surface on the finish. Eva- tannins and flavors of blueberry, blackberry and herb push the oak envelope. Overall, this is lively and fun. ton, Inc. —M.S. accents. It’s not rough but definitely ripe and flamboy- T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 ant, with a big, jammy personality. Dangerous Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Group. —M.S. Ñandú 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). The light- abv: 14.7% Price: $49 Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Malbec 82 er-style nose that focuses on red plum and cher- 87 (Mendoza). Aromas of dark berry, rubber and ry is a welcome change from all of the heavy Malbecs Matias Bertona Wines 2008 Inspiratto a smoky quality define the bouquet. It feels nice, with out there, but the wine doesn’t follow through on the 90 from the Andes Reserve Malbec (Men- a slight tannic grab and likable flavors of red berry and palate. It becomes astringent, with tastes of tomato, doza). This smells toasty up front, with aromas of tree pepper. Short on the finish, but it’s fresh and clean. stewed berry and cranberry. Polaris Wines, Inc. —M.S. bark, earth and shoe polish. It runs deep and rich on the Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 tongue, with a syrupy feel and flavors of graham cracker, abv: 14% Price: $NA tobacco, berry pie and herb accents. The finish is good Funky Llama 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). but seems a little hollow, with rooty, herbal flavors that Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Barran- 81 The nonexpressive berry and cherry aromas are linger. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S. 87 cas Vineyards Malbec (Mendoza). Not as closed. Light in feel, this tastes of citrus, plum and rhu- abv: 14% Price: $22 good as in previous vintages, this has a distinct minty, barb. The lightweight finish is mildly herbal and green. shrill quality to the otherwise leathery and foresty bou- Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Terrazas de Los Andes 2008 Single Vine- quet. It feels a bit raw and high in acidity, with plum abv: 12.5% Price: $8 90 yard Las Compuertas Malbec (Luján de and herb flavors. Modest on the finish, this stays fairly Cuyo). A bit leafy and earthy on first take, but this minty and herbal while remaining fresh. T.G.I.C. Im- Toca Diamonte 2010 Malbec (Mendo- also smells of roasted meat, berry fruit and menthol. It porters. —M.S. 80 za). While this smells floral and candied, the feels layered and rich, with drying tannins and full-force abv: NA Price: $35 palate rages, courtesy of strapping acidity that creates plum and herb flavors. This is big, dark and herbal, tart plum and blueberry flavors. Prestige Wine Group. finishing with hints of leather, tomato and oregano. Gardel 2011 Colección Malbec (Mendo- —M.S. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. 86 za). Dark and minty smelling, this bears hints abv: 13% Price: $5 abv: 14% Price: $45 of blackberry, perfume and violet. It feels good and not too forceful, with regular Malbec flavors of dark fruit, Toneles del Sur 2008 Reserve Malbec red plum and spice. The finish is firm and slightly -me PINOT NOIR 90 (Mendoza). This is rooty smelling, with lico- dicinal. Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Trapiche 2011 Broquel Pinot Noir (Men- rice, root beer, tar and smoky notes accenting berry fruit abv: NA Price: $11 86 doza). Little by little Trapiche is improving its aromas. It feels unctuous but manages to hold onto its Pinot Noirs, evidenced by this authentic, lightly per- Alma del Sur 2011 Colección Malbec balance, and the flavors of baked berry, black plum and fumed wine. It’s fresh, bearing good acidity and roasted (Mendoza). The fresh berry aromas are solid, savory herb are on the money. The finish is chewy in 85 berry and leaf flavors. It finishes with mild tomato and and the palate is plucky and lively, with plenty of acid- feel, with a slightly herbal character. Wine Brindis Im- herb accents. This gets better with time in the glass. The ity to push the ripe, standard Malbec flavors of black- porters. —M.S. Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 berry and spice. It shows some tartaric crispness and abv: 14% Price: $15 bite on the finish, but tastes right. Martin Scott Wines. Enrique Foster 2007 Firmado Malbec Best Buy. —M.S. Pulenta Estate 2010 Gran XV Pinot Noir 89 (Mendoza). This is a pushy wine with aromas abv: 13.8% Price: $10 85 (Mendoza). Leafy and smoky smelling, this of rubber, pencil eraser, leather, blueberry and oak. It has lean cherry and raspberry aromas in the backdrop. Bodega Norton 2011 Lo Tengo Malbec has the tannic grip that creates a certain roughness, This is a tight and linear wine, with strawberry and rasp- (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas come with while blueberry and spice flavors have fire to them, -es 85 berry flavors that pick up speed. Overall it’s juicy, jumpy a dusty note and a hint of milk chocolate. This feels pecially on the finish.. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. and legit, but nervy. This may benefit from more bot- straightforward, with flavors of raspberry, mild herb abv: 14% Price: $93 tle aging. Only 512 cases were produced. Paul Hobbs and sugar beet. The finish is short and easy, with an ap- Wines. —M.S. Lamadrid 2008 Single Vineyard Gran proachable mouthfeel. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 89 Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Saturated on the abv: 13.5% Price: $11 nose, this has aromas of pencil lead, coconut, vanilla and Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Men- Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Lote 44 black fruit. It feels tannic, with pulsing acidity pushing doza). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Malbec (Mendoza). 85 raisin, prune, black plum, licorice and graphite flavors. 84 A lot of oak hits hard, abv: 14% Price: $10 The finish is oaky, resiny and chocolaty tasting. Vino Del with initial scents of shoe polish and black tar. This is Sol. —M.S. rubbery, big and forward stuff, with loud plum, berry, Alfredo Roca 2011 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). abv: 14.5% Price: $34 toast and oak flavors. The finish stays minty, toasty and 82 Spearmint and soft berry aromas turn toward slightly bitter. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. raisin. This feels wide and flabby, with a lot of oak and Menduco 2011 Reserve Malbec (Uco Val- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 resin notes in its frame. This is quite oaky, spicy and 88 ley). Concentrated blackberry and black cur- minty for Pinot Noir. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Tolentino rant aromas are ripe and come with a balsamic note. abv: 13.2% Price: $14 It feels juicy, full, lively and fresh, with oaky dark-plum 83 Winemaker’s Selection Malbec (Mendo- flavors accented by rooty, herbal notes. Dry tannins za). Meaty plum and berry aromas come with dark, Amadores 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). demanding, minty aromas that are similar to this win- This smells like a forest fire, but it’s also creamy ery’s Lote 44 bottling. It feels astringent, with a resiny 81

WineMag.com | 45 and roasted. Tangy and tart, this features narrow plum spice work well together. It finishes sweet but with a ish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and and cherry flavors that are powered by blazing acidity. touch of spice and vanilla. Baja Wines LLC. Best Buy. Tempranillo; drink now–2013. Baja Wines LLC. Edi- Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. —M.S. tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $108

Monte Xanic 2011 Viña Kristel Sauvignon Vinisterra 2007 Pedregal Syrah-Mourve- OTHER RED WINES 86 Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Here’s a true 91 dre (San Antonio de las Minas Valley). Alfredo Roca 2011 Malbec-Merlot (Men- Sauvignon Blanc with spunky green aromas and plenty This red blend of 67% Syrah and 33% Mourvedre im- of grapefruit. It feels citric and lemony on the tongue, mediately announces itself as serious and classy. The doza). Dusty berry and plum aromas set the 86 with citrusy flavors of tangerine and lime. It finishes bouquet is layered with berry fruit and baking spice stage for a big, cheek-grabbing wine with red berry, tight and zesty, like a good Sauvignon Blanc should. aromas that aren’t hard or pushy. It feels stout and se- leather and light herb flavors. Toasty and minty, this Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. cure, with its structure supporting flavors of concentrat- finishes with a touch of spice. This is a good blend of abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ed berry, pepper and baking spice. The long finish keeps 60% Malbec and 40% Merlot. Hand Picked Selections. its form. Drink now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ —M.S. Viñas Pijoan 2011 Silvana (Valle de Gua- Choice. abv: 13.6% Price: $12 —M.S. 86 dalupe). Neutral on the bouquet, this has abv: 13.8% Price: $45 Altos de San Isidro 2009 Reserve Bar- clean, stony aromas that set up a surprisingly plump palate with melon and lychee flavors. It finishes a bit Paralelo 2009 Hotel 5 Estrellas (Valle de bera (Salta). This smells roasted, leathery and 85 soft, but with more than acceptable acidity. It won’t age Guadalupe). A blend of Tempranillo, Cab- earthy, with a mouthfeel that’s solid if a bit scratchy. It 90 for too long, but it sure tastes good now. Baja Wines ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache and Cinsault, this delivers an intense wild-berry aroma and some of Ca- LLC. —M.S. smells spicy and earthy, with cola, leather and dusty ber- fayate’s signature complex herbal character. Oaky va- abv: 12.6% Price: $19 ry aromas. Focused and pure feeling, it bears flavors of nilla and dill notes accent the finish. Vineyard Brands. berry, plum, cherry, caramel and vanilla cream. Light- —M.S. Paralelo 2011 Emblema Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14% Price: $18 ly stewed on the finish, but it’s excellent overall. Drink 84 (Valle de Guadalupe). Overtly simple and now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. Tempus Alba 2008 Tempranillo (Mendo- drying, this has crisp acidity and oily flavors of popcorn abv: 14.7% Price: $40 and tart white fruits. It finishes with citrus and astrin- za). The nose opens with animalistic scents 84 gency. This would likely be better with seafood or salad Tres Valles 2010 Jalá (Valle de Guada- of leather, compost and barnyard. This has an average than on its own. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. lupe). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and mouthfeel, with somewhat herbal plum and berry fla- 90 abv: 14.7% Price: $21 Grenache is clean, pure and 100% balanced. Aromas of vors that finish short with a mild leafy character. Mistica fresh berry, rubber and baking spice lead to berry, plum Wines LLC. —M.S. Lafarga 2010 Equinoccio Chardonnay abv: 14% Price: $15 and chocolate flavors. Smooth on the finish, with purity 82 (Valle de Guadalupe). Waxy smelling and and length. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Wandering Grape 2011 Malbec-Merlot gritty, with an oily overtone, this feels O.K. but sort of abv: 13.5% Price: $17 wayward, with flavors of bitter grapefruit and match- (Mendoza). Raspy cherry aromas precede a 83 stick. Simple and somewhat sour on the finish. Baja Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Tempranillo scratchy palate that’s characterized by its high acid-to- Wines LLC. —M.S. (San Vicente). Arguably Baja’s best varietal body ratio. It tastes a bit tart and generic, with a red 89 abv: 12.5% Price: $21 Tempranillo, this 350-case production is round, clean plum flavor in front of a fiery finish. This is light and and fruity on the bouquet, with brown sugar and molas- crisp in style. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. Viñas de Garza 2011 Blanco del Rancho abv: 12.9% Price: $11 ses along with big black-fruit aromas. It feels full, tannic 81 Mogorcito (Valle de Guadalupe). This is and balanced, with sweet plum, chocolate and berry- nutty and minerally on the nose, and barely citric as far syrup flavors. This is more than generous on the finish. MEXICO as fruit aromas go. On the palate, there’s bitterness, with Drink now–2014. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. a grapefruit tang making up the flavor profile. A blend abv: 13.3% Price: $36 of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Baja Wines LLC. WHITE WINES —M.S. Viñas de Garza 2007 Colina Norte (Val- Casa de Piedra 2011 Piedra de Sol Char- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 89 le de Guadalupe). Tight, earthy and focused 87 donnay (Valle de Guadalupe). The apple up front, this has attractive berry and cola aromas. It and popcorn aromas are good, and the wine was never feels jammy, flush and lush, then tastes equally jam- aged in a barrel. It feels crisp and flinty, with excellent RED WINES my and rich, with plum and berry flavors that seem cut and acidity. Flavors of lemon and tangerine lead to a Viñas de Garza 2007 Amado IV (Valle de baked and warm. Candied tasting on the finish, but long, citrusy finish with snap and tang. Baja Wines LLC. 92 Guadalupe). A world-class wine regardless of fresh enough in feel. This is a blend of Tempranillo, —M.S. origin, this Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo Grenache and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $23 and Zinfandel blend is as full as they come, with allur- abv: 13.5% Price: $54 ing black cherry, cola and graphite aromas. The mouth- La Lomita 2009 Singular (Valle de Guada- Moebius 2011 Endemico Muscatel (Val- feel is smooth and rich, with a wave of cola, molasses lupe). Roasted berry, dry oak, bacon, leather, 87 le de Guadalupe). Tropical aromas of lychee and chocolate along with black cherry and blackberry. 88 graphite and spice aromas come together on the nose. and green banana are clean and inviting. The palate Sweet, dark, smoky and long on the finish. Drink now– It feels jammy, thick and chewy, with full tannins setting feels lifted, fresh and easygoing, with lychee, banana 2014. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. and pear flavors. It finishes pure and fairly long. Baja abv: 13.5% Price: $54 up flavors of baked berry and molasses. It finishes simi- Wines LLC. —M.S. larly, with a rich, full texture and a candied flavor. This is abv: 12.8% Price: $19 El Sombrero 2009 Red (Valle de Gua- a blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 10% each Cabernet 91 dalupe). Ripe and rich, but not dull or out Sauvignon and Merlot. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. Monte Xanic 2011 Chenin-Colombard of whack, this smells sweet, a little soupy and densely abv: 13% Price: $40 87 (Valle de Guadalupe). The peach, pear and fruity, with a cumin accent. It feels concentrated and Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Brisas del apple aromas get no interference from oak. The mouth- full bodied, with black fruit flavors of roasted plum and Sur (San Vicente). Sweet, earthy and dry feel is friendly, while flavors of green melon, pear and blackberry. It’s mellow, dealing brown sugar on the fin- 88

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 smelling, with tobacco and savory soy aromas. Toma- vors of plum and berry. It finishes with the same herbal, Emevé 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle toey acids pushing raspberry, plum, vanilla and tobacco Bordeaux-style flavors that give the palate an Old World 80 de Guadalupe). Briary on the nose, this has flavors. Oak-based vanilla and tomato flavors are also character. Not as good as the 2008. Baja Wines LLC. disjointed aromas of plum, cinnamon and wet cement. present on the finish, which is fresh and lively. Only 250 —M.S. It’s jumpy, acidic and not very well balanced, with tart cases made. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 red-plum and cherry flavors. It feels edgy and gritty, abv: 13.3% Price: $26 with an almost sour finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. Tres Valles 2009 Elegancia Shiraz (Val- abv: 13.2% Price: $24 Viñas Pijoan 2009 Doménica (Valle de 86 le de Guadalupe). Dense cherry, plum and 88 Guadalupe). This is light on the nose, with al- black currant aromas carry a note of latex as well as ba- Vinisterra 2011 Dominó Cinsault (San most airy aromas of raspberry and cherry. Fuller and con. Feels fiery and powerful, not elegant or lifted, with 80 Antonio de las Minas Valley). Slightly sweet more grabby in the mouth, it has firm tannins and sweet untamed, slightly syrupy flavors of plum, berry, choco- on the nose, but wheaty and grassy too. It tastes like clay flavors of berry and cherry darkened by a toasty accent. late and cough medicine. Powerful Shiraz that seems and bubble gum, with a touch of peach and citrus. It’s A little fiery on the finish, it has mild heat that food will more boozy than its listed 14% abv. Baja Wines LLC. acidic on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. tame. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 12.2% Price: $15 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $40

Vinisterra 2007 Macouzet Syrah (Valle de Lafarga 2008 Equinoccio Nebbiolo (Valle CALIFORNIA 88 Guadalupe and Santo Tomás). Relying on 85 de Guadalupe). Dense, heavy and meaty on fruit from the Guadalupe and Santo Tomás valleys, this the nose, this has stewed plum and earth notes. Heavy CHARDONNAY wine shows a core red-berry aroma that settles on cas- tannins make it grabby, while the flavors suggest stewed sis and cherry notes. It’s bright, acidic and fruity, with black fruits. Roasted tasting, it hits hard on the finish. Joseph Phelps 2010 Pastorale Vineyard wild berry, plum and brown sugar flavors. This is long Entirely different from Italian Nebbiolo. Baja Wines 96 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Undoubt- and powerful on the finish due to its juicy acidity. Baja LLC. —M.S. edly the greatest Chardonnay the winery has ever pro- Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 duced, this is as rich as any Chardonnay on the market. abv: 13.7% Price: $30 Notes of tropical fruit, green apple and crème brûlée Monte Xanic 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon mesh with vibrant minerality that’s steely, chalky and Monte Xanic 2008 Gran Ricardo (Valle de 84 (Valle de Guadalupe). Smoky, oaky and pep- tangy. Although it tastes of honey, the finish is complete- 87 Guadalupe). Spicy and exotic smelling, this pery up front, with balsamic berry aromas and tree bark ly dry. This might even develop earthy, nutty complexi- bears aromas of tobacco, blueberry and cumin. It feels notes. It feels thick, creamy and a little awkward, with ties as it ages. —S.H. heavy, grabby and supertannic, with mildly herbal fla- heavy oak flavors, related spice and savory, stewy notes. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 vors of peppery berry fruit and chocolate. Prune, berry As it unwinds it’s chunky and heavy, with a sweet molas- and earth notes work the finish on this meaty, tannic big ses note on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vine- boy. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 94 yards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For abv: 13.5% Price: $52/1.5 L full review see page 4. Tres Valles 2009 Maat Grenache (Val- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 HQSA 2009 Xikbal Baja (Valle de Guada- 83 le de Guadalupe). Hot and heavy from first 87 lupe). This is spicy and dusty on the nose, with a whiff, this has plastic and red pepper notes, with a sweet Migration 2010 Dierberg Vineyard Char- hint of agave and roasted berry aromas. Feels full, good strawberry aroma. It’s thick as syrup on the palate, with 94 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Rich, opulent and zesty, with driving black-cherry, plum and raspberry extracted, fully ripe flavors of blackberry and raisin. and balanced, this has a wealth of orange and tropical flavors. It shows herbal shadings and fresh tomato on Maat means “the land” in a native language; but it could fruit flavors, with spicy, caramelly oak and layers of with the finish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with mean syrupy sweet. Hard to believe this is just 13.5% buttered toast and honey. Vibrant coastal acidity pro- Syrah and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. vides essential lift to this elaborate Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Viñas Pijoan 2010 Convertible Rojo (Val- Vinisterra 2008 Dominó (Valle de Gua- Parallel 2010 Chardonnay (Russian Riv- 87 le de Guadalupe). Winemaker/owner Pau Pi- 83 dalupe and Santo Tomás). This wine opens 94 er Valley). So rich, so opulent, this is fantastic joan’s tribute to fast, fun cars is encapsulated in this racy with pepper, leather and stalky berry aromas. It feels to enjoy now. It really nails it, with intricate flavors of red blend of Ruby Cabernet (motor), Petit Sirah (turbo sticky in the mouth, with stalky, buttery berry flavors buttered toast, butterscotch, honey and vanilla that ride charger), Barbera (transmission) and Colombard (sus- that fall off rather quickly. Sweet but that’s about it on high on top of the pineapple and tropical fruit flavors. ). It’s strapping and shows a lot of acid, while the finish. Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvè- The winery is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, but the flavors of berry, cherry and chocolate are good but dre. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. with this release, it’s competing at the highest level of monotone. This is fruity, flavorful and not complicated. abv: 13.8% Price: $19 quality Chardonnay. —S.H. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $48 abv: 13.7% Price: $21 Emevé 2009 Shiraz (Valle de Guadalupe). 82 This has aromas of smashed berry and red lico- Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay La Lomita 2009 Pagano Grenache (Valle rice candy. It feels raspy and resiny, with flavors of toast- 93 (Carneros). For full review see page 5. 86 de Guadalupe). Opaque in color, with smoky ed oak and jammy blueberry and raspberry. It’s wiry and abv: 14.4% Price: $38 aromas of bacon, berry purée, latex and dried herbs. lacking finesse on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. Feels saturated and grapy, with big, plodding tannins abv: 13% Price: $23 Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don in front of soft, stewed flavors of blackberry and prune. 93 Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian Darkens up on what amounts to a soft finish. Pure Gr- La Escuelita 2008 Txtura 3 Carignan (Val- River Valley). For full review see page 5. enache. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 81 le de Guadalupe). Baked and bricky smell- abv: 14.4% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $25 ing, with notes of applesauce and blueberry. It feels snappy with edgy tannins. Cranberry and spice flavors Matanzas Creek 2009 Chardonnay (So- Mogor Badan 2009 Red (Valle de Guada- lead to a scouring finish; 100% Carignan. Baja Wines 93 noma County). Unbelievably rich, this tastes 86 lupe). This is slightly stalky and burnt smell- LLC. —M.S. pretty much as excellent as the winery’s more expensive ing, with briary aromas. It feels choppy, with roasted fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Chardonnays. It really dazzles with its complex flavors of tropical fruit, green apple, pear, buttered toast and

WineMag.com | 47 honey. It’s all brightened by terrific acidity and wrapped Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard good price for a Santa Lucia Chardonnay this rich and into a creamy texture. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 92 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). appealing. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $26 For full review see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $32 Migration 2010 Split Rail Vineyard Char- Cuvaison 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). 93 donnay (Anderson Valley). With rich, hon- Pessagno 2009 Intrinity Chardonnay 91 The winery strikes a happy balance between eyed flavors of apricots and oranges, this flashy, dramat- 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Pessagno’s Char- richness and elegant austerity with this bone-dry of- ic Chardonnay seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, but donnays are always big and strong wines, as befits their fering. It’s minerally and reserved, offering intrigu- the amazing thing is that it’s actually dry. It’s brisk in growing conditions in the cool foothills of the coastal ing hints of apricots and tropical fruits, with notes of coastal acidity, with complex nuances of toasty oak and a Monterey mountains. This is monumental in fruit, buttered toast and smoky vanilla of new oak that many creamy mouthfeel. For drinking now. —S.H. bursting at the seams with ripe apricots and tangerines, Chardonnay lovers crave. With 29,000 cases produced, abv: 13.7% Price: $45 sweetened with honey, yet finishing dry. It’s a wine to this should be relatively easy to find. Editors’ Choice. pair with elaborate fare. —S.H. —S.H. Shafer 2010 Red Shoulder Ranch Char- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 93 donnay (Carneros). Another terrific offering from Shafer, this is a wine that seems to do well regard- Robert Mondavi 2010 Reserve Chardon- Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay less of the vintage. It always shows a firm minerality and 92 nay (Carneros). This bottling always strives 91 (Carneros). For full review see page 7. Edi- slight herbaceousness, with tropical fruit flavors and a to avoid a heavy hand and express more of a terroir- tors’ Choice. smoky coating of fine oak. It’s a shade less opulent than driven Chardonnay. This is bone dry, tart in mouthwater- abv: 14.1% Price: $18 the 2009, making this very elegant and refined, yet still ing acidity and complex in citrus, tropical fruit and herb rich and complex. Don’t drink it too cold—airing brings flavors. It’s not an opulent attention getter, but instead Saracina 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay out subtle nuances. —S.H. prefers to seduce through subtlety and nuance. —S.H. 91 (Mendocino County). With a very pretty abv: 14.9% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 nose of perfumed pear, green apple and lime, this uno- aked Chardonnay is nicely soft and easy to drink. Made Thomas Fogarty 2009 Damiana Vineyard Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vine- from organic Chardonnay and a touch of Viognier, this 93 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz 92 yards Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). smells and tastes of summer. Even without a hint of oak Mountains). This vineyard has been source to some of Delicious and crisp in acidity, this is dry despite its fla- this retains plenty of richness and a fresh vibrancy on Fogarty’s greatest Chardonnays, and this 2009 bottling vors of honey and ripe, jammy tropical fruit. How this the finish. —V.B. continues the tradition of excellence. It’s bone dry and wine achieves such a quality is magic, but the brisk acid- abv: 14.1% Price: $18 tart in acidity, with smoky oak and lees influences. But ity helps, as does its stony minerality. Ready to enjoy the real star of the wine is the fruit; the flavors of lemon now. —S.H. Riverbench 2011 Bedrock Chardon- and lime custard, papaya, guava and nectarine are deli- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 90 nay (Santa Maria Valley). This never went cious. —S.H. through malolactic fermentation, resulting in a beau- abv: 14.4% Price: $50 Thomas Fogarty 2009 Albutom Vineyard tiful, food-friendly offering. First noticed is the brisk 92 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz acidity that’s like a squeeze of sweet Meyer lemon, Thomas Fogarty 2009 Portola Springs Mountains). Some will find this Chardonnay severe brightening the tropical fruit and pear flavors. Then the 93 Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay and lacking in richness as it’s marked by dryness, min- wine’s intensity and complexity sink in, leading to a long, (Santa Cruz Mountains). The closest thing in Cali- erality and acidity, rather than tropical fruit and sweet spicy finish. Pair this with Asian fare. —S.H. fornia you can get to a great French Chablis, this is ab- oak.It would not be surprising if this wine made gains abv: 14.1% Price: $24 solutely dry, high in acidity and streamlined. It offers in 5–6 years, but even if it doesn’t, it defines a more tantalizing citrus rind and peach fruit flavors, with a sa- elegant style. —S.H. Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Char- vory taste of cold minerals. Fans of rich, buttery Char- abv: 14.9% Price: $50 90 donnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a very rich, donnay will find it lean, but if you have a cellar, age it elaborate Chardonnay, detailed with pineapple, pear, for six years and see how it evolves. Cellar Selection. Thomas Fogarty 2009 Langley Hill Vine- and apricot flavors, and a coating of sweetly smoked, —S.H. 92 yard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa vanilla-tinged oak. The acidity is brisk and fine. It’s com- abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Cruz Mountains). Fogarty continues its streak of plex and impressive, yet its high alcohol and some over- great, Chablis-style Chardonnays with this single-vine- ripeness suggest that it’s not ageable—drink up. —S.H. Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay yard bottling. True afficionados will love the dryness, abv: 14.5% Price: $48 92 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Ed- acidity and minerality, which give it such great struc- itors’ Choice. ture. The severity is relieved by flavors of citrus zest Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Envoy Chardonnay abv: 14.3% Price: $25 and white peach, and the creamy sourdough richness 90 (Russian River Valley). This is the winery’s imparted by lees aging. Try aging it for at least six years. most expensive Chardonnay, and it’s also easily their Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian —S.H. best. It shows the ripe, flashy opulence that makes 92 River Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 15% Price: $50 Chardonnay America’s favorite white, with an array of abv: 14.1% Price: $30 pineapple and orange pie flavors. Beyond the richness, White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardon- there’s good acidity and a clean, brisk finish. Drink now. Migration 2010 Charles Heintz Vineyard 92 nay (Russian River Valley). For full review —S.H. 92 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Showing the see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 richness of the vineyard, this delivers huge, flamboyant abv: 14.3% Price: $ of apricot and tangerine jam. While it’s technical- Von Holt 2010 Heintz Vineyard Chardon- ly dry, there’s a honeyed sweetness that suggests a touch Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard 90 nay (Sonoma Coast). Flavors of toasty oak, of botrytis. It’s a strong wine, unafraid to command a 92 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). butter cream, ripe tangerine and pear combine in this boldness that may not be for everyone. This is distinctly Insanely rich, this explodes in the mouth with orange, dry, pleasantly complex effort. It’s properly brisk in acid- Californian in style, and as it loses fruit with age, it will pineapple, apricot, tropical fruit and sweet new-oak fla- ity, with a long, spicy finish of pie spice and vanilla bean develop nut and earthy notes. —S.H. vors. The richness is tempered with crisp acidity and a notes. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $55 minerality that tastes like a lick of cold steel. This is a abv: 13.2% Price: $35

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Joullian 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Dierberg 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Lockwood 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey 89 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 87 Valley). Ripe and oaky, this offers the sweet 86 County). This has slender flavors of tangerine This shows the two classic markers of this vineyard: fruit and buttered toast flavors Chardonnay lovers and peach. It’s elegantly dry, clean and brisk in acidity, brisk, mouthwatering acidity and superripe flavors. crave. It tastes like a candy bar, with pineapple, mango, with a light touch of smoky oak—definitely worth the The orange and peach notes meld with an apricot tone, roasted almond and honeyed granola flavors, all bright- price. —S.H. which may have a touch of botrytis, lending a hint of ened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 honey. For all the richness, it’s bone dry and minerally. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Lovely now, but these Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Char- McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junc- donnays age interestingly, gradually losing fruit and Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Foggy Oaks 86 tion). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. gaining nut and earthy notes. —S.H. 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Some abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.2% Price: $33 new oak lends a sweet, smoky edge of buttered toast to this ripe Chardonnay. Its pineapple and pear flavors are Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Chardon- Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (San- highlighted by crisp acidity. —S.H. 86 nay (Santa Maria Valley). This is a fairly sim- 89 ta Barbara County). Rich, forward and de- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 ple wine. Although it’s rich in apricot, orange and tropi- licious, this has pineapple and peach jam flavors, with cal fruit flavors, not to mention oak, it’s a little overripe elaborate notes of buttered toast and caramel from the Icaria 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Alexan- and seemingly sweet. The vanilla and buttered toast fla- oak aging. It finishes dry. —S.H. 87 der Valley). This has everything that many vors will appeal to many. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 people love about Chardonnay: It’s creamy, buttery abv: 14.5% Price: $26 and toasty, with sweet tropical fruit and pear flavors. It’s Amos Cellars 2010 Churner Chardonnay pretty flashy. —S.H. Stemmler 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). 88 (Central Coast). Crisp and lean, with mineral, abv: 13.8% Price: $18 86 Sweet oak and buttered toast flavors dominate lemon and ripe grapefruit flavors, this is enriched with a this Chardonnay. Underneath there are flavors of pine- sweet note of honey. The acidity is keen, and while the Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Select apple, pear and orange. It’s rich, dry and bright in acid- wine is a little severe, it’s so elegant. Drink now. —S.H. 87 Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). This ity. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24 is the oaked version of Jason-Stephens’s estate-grown abv: 14.1% Price: $34 Chardonnay. It’s rich and deep, yet still smooth, with Joullian 2010 RogerRose Vineyard Char- the grape’s trademark apple crispness. The finish lingers Walt 2010 La Brisa Chardonnay (Sonoma 88 donnay (Arroyo Seco). Fine acidity, dryness with an apple pie note. —V.B. 86 County). This is pretty standard, with good and a cold minerality undergird the tropical fruit fla- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 acidity pervading tropical fruit flavors. There’s a rich vors, making it particularly likeable and food friendly. overlay of sweet oak. —S.H. It showcases the ability of this little appellation in the MacPhail 2010 Gap’s Crown Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $35 middle of the Salinas Valley, just below the Santa Lucia 87 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows Highlands, to ripen white wines. —S.H. the apricot jam richness often found in California’s William Hill Estate 2010 Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $29 cool-climate vineyards. There may even be a touch of 86 (Napa Valley). Rich and buttery, this has botrytis, although the wine is thoroughly dry. It’s brisk in smoky oak and toast flavors that frame the pineapple Justin 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). acidity and well-oaked; big and rich, it’s almost a cocktail and orange jam notes. Not overly complicated, this is 88 Bone dry, acidic and subtle in citrus and tropical by itself. —S.H. made in a way that appeals to Chardonnay lovers. Pro- fruit flavors, this is a Chardonnay that doesn’t insist on abv: 14.5% Price: $45 duction was a hefty 16,500 cases. —S.H. standing on its own. Instead, it’s perfectly content to let abv: 14.5% Price: $25 the food star, remaining in a supporting role. For pair- Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (Edna ings, lobster risotto comes to mind, or just a delicious 87 Valley). This is rich and appealing in orange Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). For mayonnaise-based sandwich. —S.H. and lemon marmalade and buttered toast flavors. It’s 85 full review see page 12. Best Buy. abv: 14.1% Price: $19 delicious, balanced by crisp acidity and minerality. A abv: 13.5% Price: $10 flashy wine worth drinking now for its freshness and vi- Shale Canyon 2010 Chardonnay (Arroyo cacity. —S.H. Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled 88 Seco). Brisk acidity and a steely, minerally dry- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 85 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). New oak stands ness make this Chardonnay particularly savory. The citrus out in this slightly sweet Chardonnay, giving a butter- flavors suggest limes and Meyer lemons, with sugges- Wayne Gretzky Estates 2010 No. 99 Char- scotch taste to the pineapple and fig fruit. It has pleas- tions of toast and vanilla. It’s an elegant wine and easily 87 donnay (Sonoma County). The price is very ant acidity. —S.H. worth the price. —S.H. good for what you get: a dry, creamy Chardonnay, with abv: 13.9% Price: $28 abv: 14.6% Price: $20 tropical fruit, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. A good job by the ice hockey great. —S.H. Five Rows 2011 Chardonnay (California). The Federalist 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 85 There’s lots of sweet oak in this wine, with domi- 88 sian River Valley). Here’s a racy, chiseled nant flavors of buttered toast, buttered popcorn and va- Chardonnay, with a pleasant veneer of smoky, buttered Fleur 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast). A nilla. Underneath there’s some nice apricot and tanger- toast from new oak that enriches the lime and peach 86 solid Chardonnay, this is dry, rich and creamy, ine fruit. —S.H. fruit. Elegant rather than powerful, it’s a food-friendly with lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors. A touch of abv: 13.1% Price: $14 wine. Try with lobster risotto. —S.H. oak brings a nice note of buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $13 Gracianna 2011 Suzanne’s Blend Char- 85 donnay (Russian River Valley). This tastes Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Chardon- a little vegetal, but it’s dry, crisp and creamy, with decent 87 (Carneros). This oozes with sweet oak, honey 86 nay (Santa Clara Valley). This is a stainless- orange and peach flavors. —S.H. and buttered toast flavors, with added notes of pineap- steel-aged Chardonnay with splendid streaks of lemon, abv: 14.1% Price: $34 ple cream and peach jam. Few Chardonnays are this honey and kiwi that surround a core of tart apple. It’s bal- opulent; it will have its fans among those who love this anced with good acidity that greets you on the entrance House Band NV Chardonnay (California). style. —S.H. and on the finish. —V.B. 85 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 14.4% Price: $30 abv: 14.6% Price: $20 abv: 13.8% Price: $5/375 ml

WineMag.com | 49 Kunde 2010 Kinneybrook Vineyard Char- J. Wilkes 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Ma- ine and vanilla flavors. It would be a wonderful compan- 85 donnay (Sonoma Valley). Seemingly sweet 82 ria Valley). Seemingly overly oaked and ma- ion to modern Asian fare. —S.H. and oaky, this has buttered popcorn, buttered toast and nipulated, this is all about buttered toast and buttered abv: 13.8% Price: $15 caramel cream flavors. The fruit suggests pineapples popcorn flavors, slathered over a note of pineapple jam. and pears. —S.H. —S.H. Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Lafond Vine- abv: 14.2% Price: $24 abv: 14.3% Price: $18 87 yard Dry Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This is, as the label says, a dry Riesling, but it’s not without rich- Sean Minor 2010 Chardonnay (Central Lost Angel 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- ness. With lemon, lime, apricot and Asian pear flavors, 85 Coast). There’s lots of zesty acidity in this ripe, 82 nia). Seemingly sweet and simple, this has or- it has wonderful acidity. It would be great with today’s forward Chardonnay. It features fruity flavors of oranges ange and butterscotch candy flavors. —S.H. complex Asian-fusion fare. —S.H. and apricots, with a touch of oak that lends a buttered abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.4% Price: $18 toast note. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Snapping Turtle 2011 Chardonnay (Cal- Hacienda 2010 Riesling (California). 81 ifornia). Simple and seemingly sweet, this 85 Crisp acidity gives this off-dry Riesling just the Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Char- Chardonnay has apricot jam flavors. —S.H. edge of tartness it needs to balance out the sweet citrus 84 donnay (California). Modest orange and abv: NA Price: $11 and flower flavors. It’s the perfect inexpensive summer peach flavors are found in this oak-tinged wine. It offers picnic white wine. Best Buy. —S.H. the Chardonnay lover good pleasure. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 VIOGNIER Black Box 2011 Riesling (California). This Chalk Hill 2010 Viognier (Chalk Hill). This Black Box 2011 Chardonnay (California). is a very nice Riesling for drinking with today’s is a rich, flamboyant Viognier, showing lots of 84 A good Chardonnay to serve at parties, this 91 ethnic fare. Although it’s softer than you’d expect from 84 ripe, fruity flavors and a nice burst of acidity. It’s high shows plenty of oak-driven vanilla and toast flavors that this normally tart varietal, it’s clean and spicy, with cit- in alcohol, which gives some prickly heat, but the pine- ride high over the seemingly sweet note of pineapple rus, flower and honey flavors. The sweetness level is off- apple custard, tangerine and crème brûlée flavors are candy. It will satisfy lots of Chardophiles, at an afford- dry. Best Buy. —S.H. frankly delicious. —S.H. Best Buy. abv: 12% Price: $25/3 L able price. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $40/375 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L Coastal Ridge 2010 Riesling (California). 10 Knots 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles). Chime 2010 Chardonnay (Napa County). If you like your white wines fruity and sweet, Textbook Viognier—this is ripe and exotic in 83 Simple and strongly flavored, this is powerful in 88 this one’s for you. It has pretty flavors of peaches, honey 84 tropical fruit, white flower and honey flavors. It’s tech- pear, vanilla and buttered toast notes. There’s not much and spices. —S.H. nically dry, but so rich you’d swear there was some subtlety, but it will satisfy fans of this style. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 residual sugar. With its strong texture and full body, this abv: 13.8% Price: $19 is an interesting alternative to a big Chardonnay. —S.H. ForestVille 2010 Riesling (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Hess Collection 2010 Chardonnay (Napa 82 Sweet, soft and simple, this has candied lemon Valley). and pineapple flavors. —S.H. 84 A simple Chardonnay, this seems Wattle Creek 2010 Viognier (Alexander sweet in pineapple and peach jam notes, with but- abv: 12.5% Price: $7 Valley). Showing the rich, exotic side of Viog- tered toast and honey flavors from oak. Flashy, but one- 87 nier, this has ripe, flamboyant flavors of tropical fruit, dimensional. —S.H. white flower and spice. It has a controlled dryness and abv: 14.4% Price: $22 SAUVIGNON BLANC citrusy acidity; this is a lovely, versatile white. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Robert Mondavi 2010 To Kalon Vineyard Matchbook 2010 Old Head Chardonnay Reserve Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). A gor- (Dunnigan Hills). This crisp Chardonnay has 93 84 Cline 2011 Viognier (North Coast). This geous Sauvignon Blanc, so rich and refined. It’s almost a disjointedness about it. Its aroma and flavor is most seems designed to appeal to the Moscato-loving as full bodied as a Chardonnay, with dense flavors of akin to Lemonheads candy. —V.B. 82 crowd. It has sweet flavors, with apricot and tangerine citrus and tropical fruits, gooseberries and minerals, abv: 13.9% Price: $15 notes that taste like fruit juice. —S.H. but with that sleek, bone-dry, acidic refinement expect- abv: 14% Price: $12 ed from this variety. Production was a mere 984 cases. Newton 2009 Unfiltered Chardonnay Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. (Napa County). There’s a nice Chardonnay 84 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 down underneath all the oak, but it’s hard to find be- RIESLING low the buttered toast and caramel richness. It would Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vine- Pessagno 2010 La Estancia Vineyard be nice to taste an unoaked version, to appreciate the yard Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). acidity and pineapple fruit. —S.H. Riesling (Santa Lucia Highlands). This 92 89 For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 is one of the best California Rieslings available in this abv: 13.9% Price: $24 price range. It’s bone dry and mouthwateringly acidic, San Simeon 2009 Chardonnay (Mon- with racy citrus flavors and a tart, tannic tang of apple Robert Mondavi 2010 Fumé Blanc (Napa terey). Extracted and oaky, this will appeal to skin. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 84 Valley). Fumé Blanc is just another name for those who enjoy the popular style. It’s strong in but- abv: 14.2% Price: $16 90 Sauvignon Blanc, and this is a delicious one. Dry and tered toast and butterscotch flavors, with a pineapple racy in acidity, it has deep citrus, tropical fruit and goose- jam note. —S.H. Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo berry flavors. At this price, it’s one of the best Sauvignon abv: 14.9% Price: $18 Seco). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. 88 Blancs on the market. Relatively easy to find, with more abv: 12.5% Price: $13 than 30,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Greystone 2011 Chardonnay (Califor- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 83 nia). An everyday Chardonnay, this has but- Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Lafond Vine- yard Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This falls tered toast, butterscotch candy and pineapple flavors. 87 Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Sauvignon Blanc It’s clean and brisk in acidity. —S.H. right in the middle of the winery’s dry and sweet Ries- (Capay Valley). From Casey Flat’s 2,000-feet- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 lings, with a suggestion of honey to the apricot, tanger- 89 high estate near Sacramento, this is a creamy, volup-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 tuous Sauvignon Blanc that has reams of texture. It re- ness. More importantly, it has a seemingly sweet finish, Sauvignon Blanc, bursting with stone fruit and melon tains a lot of acidity and is rich and fruity, with a seam- so pair accordingly with appropriate fare. —S.H. flavors, with Lake County’s typical hints of lemongrass less midpalate. Its richness comes from extended skin abv: 13.5% Price: $29 and pear—particularly on the finish. —V.B. contact and lees stirring. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $23 Gregory Graham 2011 Windrem Vine- 87 yards Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). Carr 2011 Dos Viñedos Sauvignon Blanc Bell 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake Coun- Working with a new vineyard source, Gregory Graham 86 (Santa Ynez Valley). This shows the racy 88 ty). Light, fruity and clean, this was aged in all has made a sweetly perfumed white, with pretty grape- crispness and clean profile of Santa Ynez Sauvignon stainless steel, showing delicious tones of tangerine and fruit and lime notes. Its well-integrated and layered Blancs, with delicious tropical fruit and citrus flavors. lemon peel and a crisp, long finish, with a soft touch all with flavor. —V.B. However, it seems to have some sweetness, which around. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 makes it taste a little like fruit juice. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $18 Lockwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Open Range Sau- 87 terey County). This is a stylish wine for a Geyser Peak 2011 Block Collection Riv- 88 vignon Blanc (California). Sourced from cocktail sipper or to drink with foods ranging from fried 86 er Ranches Sauvignon Blanc (Russian both Mendocino and Lake counties, this is Casey Flat chicken to sushi. It’s crisp in coastal acidity and ripe in River Valley). Perhaps this wine could be drier, as the Ranch’s accessible, affordable Sauvignon Blanc. Full of citrus, melon and tropical fruit flavors. While there’s a orange and apricot flavors seem to finish with a touch bright tropical fruit and lemon aromas, this is true to the taste of honey, it finishes dry. —S.H. of sweetness. Still, it’s clean and brisk in acidity. This varietal, with plenty of acidity to match well with food. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 should pair well with slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H. An addition of 5% Viognier is blended in. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $15 Maddalena 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso 87 Robles). Bone dry and tart in acidity, this has Girard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc mouthwatering citrus and apricot flavors, with a clean 86 ley). Clean and savory, this has jammy orange 88 (Bennett Valley). There’s a touch of honeyed elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and apricot flavors, which finish with a touch of honey. sweetness to this wine that gives it a softly appealing abv: 14.5% Price: $15 The acidity is bright and zesty. The chilly vintage shows taste. The orange, apricot, tropical fruit and vanilla fla- in the form of a touch of green mint. —S.H. vors are absolutely delicious, while there’s just enough Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.9% Price: $16 acidity to lift and balance the richness. —S.H. 87 (Sonoma County). This tastes like a slightly abv: 13.1% Price: $30 sweet lemon-, orange- and mango-juice drink, with lots Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Sauvi- of citrusy acidity and a pleasant burn of alcohol. Deli- 86 gnon Blanc (Livermore Valley). A straight- Matanzas Creek 2011 Helena Bench cious and savory, it will be a good companion to Asian forward Sauvignon Blanc, this has hints of cheese rind 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). There’s fare. —S.H. and lemon swirling within fistfuls of minerality that may no oak at all on this Sauvignon Blanc, which lets the abv: 13.5% Price: $20 need more time to settle down. But Occasio is a name to fruit stand front and center. It’s good fruit, too, rich in trust, and it should develop more flair with a bit of bottle apricots, tangerines and tropical fruits, with a good cut Rock Wall 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake age and/or air. —V.B. of acidity. —S.H. 87 County). This smells of lemon cream and pear, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 with dark, ripe and creamy layers of vanilla and fig, and a nuttiness, too. Stainless-steel fermented, it’s a lovely Provenance Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Pomelo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- example of how this variety thrives in Lake County. 86 Blanc (Rutherford). This is rich in citrus and 88 fornia). This is a large-production Sauvignon —V.B. tropical fruits, with bright acidity that really cleans the Blanc that tastes delicious. If you like grapefruit and abv: 14.1% Price: $18 palate. It seems to tread the line between dry and off- pomelo flavors, you will love this enticingly priced white dry, and it shows real elegance. —S.H. that’s got razor sharp acidity, a touch of New Zealand- Shooting Star 2011 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.1% Price: $22 like grass and a long finish. Best Buy. —V.B. 87 (Lake County). Full of fig and grapefruit abv: 13% Price: $10 flavor, this was never aged in oak. A small addition of Provenance Vineyards 2011 Wildwood Sémillon adds to its richness and long finish. —V.B. 86 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). Saracina 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- abv: 13.2% Price: $12 If you’re into dry table wines, you should know this 88 docino County). A full and creamy style of seems to have a touch of sweetness. It has orange, apri- Sauvignon Blanc, this has a lot of dense almond and Six Sigma 2011 Asbill Valley Sauvignon cot and vanilla flavors that are fortunately brightened vanilla notes set against high tones of bright peach and 87 Blanc (Lake County). With lilting lemon, with crisp acidity. —S.H. flint. With its great, fresh acidity, it will hold up against grapefruit and pretty pineapple aromas and flavors, this abv: 14.5% Price: $25 an appetizer like goat cheese on crackers. —V.B. is a good example of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc. It’s abv: 13.6% Price: $23 light and bright, and the flavors on the finish veer into Wattle Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc equally pleasing peach and apricot notes, with a touch 86 (York­ville Highlands). With layers of nutty, Shed Horn Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc of almond. —V.B. toasty oak flavors lingering in the background, this is a 88 (Lake County). This Sauvignon Blanc opens abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Sauvignon Blanc with lushness to its core of melon, gua- with beautiful flowery aromas. It’s crisp and complex, va and grass notes. —V.B. bearing intense notes of grapefruit and mineral, with a Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2011 Laguna abv: 13.8% Price: $15 kick of lime on the finish. This would go very well with 87 Vista Vineyards Sur Lees Selection Sau- seafood or spicy Thai. —V.B. vignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). This wine’s green- Wildhurst 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.8% Price: $15 ness shows that it’s not quite ripe, but it’s an interesting 86 (Lake County). With no time spent in oak, wine. Dry, racy and creamy, this is not without complex- this bright, simple Sauvignon Blanc has pear, grapefruit Duckhorn 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa ity. —S.H. and gooseberry notes and a quick finish. —V.B. 87 Valley). With vibrant acidity and a keen taste of abv: 14.1% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 mineral—like a lick of cold steel—this Sauvignon Blanc is also rich in citrus and tropical fruit flavors. A touch Vigilance 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Bogle 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- of oak and lees aging imparts a creamy, smoky yeasti- 87 Hills Lake County). Balanced and affordable, 85 nia). Easy to drink, with plenty of charm, this this is an example of a straightforward, well-nourished

WineMag.com | 51 shows orange, lime and tropical fruit flavors, brightened Sterling 2011 Vintner’s Collection Sauvi- Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Viognier smells of marshmal- with crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. 84 gnon Blanc (Central Coast). This gets the low, coconut and bubble gum. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 job done with classic varietal flavors of lemon, lime and abv: 13.8% Price: $12 savory green grass, as well as tart acidity to get those Chacewater 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake tastebuds watering. There’s an off-dry taste of honey, Lost Angel 2009 Ruckus White (Califor- 85 County). Made from organically grown grapes, but the wine is basically dry. —S.H. 84 nia). Made from a bunch of different varieties, this crisp white flirts dangerously with herb and grass abv: 13.5% Price: $13 including Viognier and Pinot Grigio, this white blend tones—what is often called gooseberry—before settling is off-dry, with a sweet edge to the orange and peach down. It’s quite drinkable, if a bit heavy on the finish. White Oak 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- fruit. —S.H. —V.B. 84 sian River Valley). If you like tart, less-than- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.8% Price: $14 ripe Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll enjoy this one. It’s acidic, but relieved by lemon, lime and honey flavors. —S.H. LoveThisLife 2009 White (California). Clos du Lac 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Ama- abv: 14.2% Price: $16 84 Made to appeal to the modern taste for sweet- 85 dor County). Opening with a bouquet of dried ness, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and apricot and almond paste, this is a full style of Sauvignon Decoy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Viognier is simple in jammy apricot, citrus and tropical Blanc, with tons of lemon on the finish. Pair this with 83 County). Dry and acidic, this has citrus and fruit flavors. It has bright acidity, which helps balance seafood. Best Buy. —V.B. green peppercorn flavors that are barely ripe. If you like it. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 the lean style, this is for you. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon San Antonio 2010 Heritage Blanc (Cen- 85 Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). With no oak, what Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Sauvignon 83 tral Coast). This is a simple wine, ripe in or- you taste is the purity of the grapes. It’s a good Sauvi- 83 Blanc (Sonoma County). With lots of acidity ange and pineapple flavors, with fine Central Coast gnon Blanc, dry and crisp in acidity, with streamlined and seemingly sweet lime, pineapple and tropical fruit acidity. It seems sweet, like a cookie, appealing to those lime and grapefruit flavors, with a hint of sweet pea. flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc has a sweet-sour taste, like who enjoy this style. —S.H. —S.H. Life Savers candy. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Farrier 2009 Andiron Semillon-Sauvi- Frog’s Leap 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Peaks 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 82 gnon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Slender 85 (Rutherford). A simple Sauvignon Blanc, this 82 (Paso Robles). This wine seems unripe, and and simple, this has a green asparagus flavor that thins is dry and mouthwateringly tart. The lemon and lime while it’s nicely dry and crisp, it has an aggressive aroma the citrus and pear notes. —S.H. flavors have a green edge of gooseberry. —S.H. and flavor of tart lime. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.6% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Rare NV 4 Grape Blend White Wine (Cali- Provenance Vineyards 2011 Estate 82 fornia). This seems so sweet, you could almost 85 Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). /GRIGIO classify it as a dessert wine. It has simple orange, pine- Nice and crisp in acidity, with a brisk, clean mouthfeel, apple and vanilla flavors. —S.H. Benessere 2010 Pinot Grigio (Carneros). this houses citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It seems a abv: 13% Price: $10 Zesty acidity and tantalizing citrus and spice fla- little sweet, so don’t expect anything too dry. —S.H. 88 vors mark this Pinot Grigio. Nice to drink on its own as abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Kenwood 2011 Vintage White (Sonoma an apéritif, this versatile wine will also pair with ethnic County). It’s hard to fall in love with this blend fare —S.H. 81 Robledo 2011 Seven Brothers Sauvi- of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It has unripe abv: 13.9% Price: $22 85 gnon Blanc (Lake County). This is a slightly green flavors that border on ammonia. —S.H. sweet Sauvignon Blanc that’s shy on the nose, without abv: 13.5% Price: $9 J Vineyards & Winery 2011 Pinot Gris much depth or breadth. —V.B. (California). There’s a sweet, orange and apri- abv: 13.3% Price: $22 87 cot jamminess to this Pinot Gris that will appeal to fans OTHER WHITE WINES of the style. It’s brisk in acidity, gaining additional plea- Guenoc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake sure from its creamy richness. Try pairing this with a Chappellet 2010 Signature Chenin Blanc County). Guenoc and Langtry, its parent com- 84 buttery omelet with ham. —S.H. (Napa Valley). Racy and brisk, clean and tart, pany, have made some great Sauvignon Blancs in their 92 abv: 13.8% Price: $15 this shows Meyer lemon, lime, white peach, mineral time, showcasing Lake County’s good fortune with this and white pepper aromas. Thankfully, it’s very dry in grape. This is a good effort, with a prevailing pineapple Black Box 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). taste, with exotic tropical-fruit, cashew and white flower note. —V.B. A wonderful Pinot Grigio that’s basically dry and flavors wrapped into a creamy, smoky mouthfeel. One abv: 13.5% Price: $16 86 mouthwateringly crisp in acidity, with lemon and lime of the best California Chenin Blancs in recent years. flavors.Best Buy. —S.H. —S.H. hy.brid 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). This abv: 12.5% Price: $25/3 L abv: 14.1% Price: $30 84 100% stainless-steel-aged Sauvignon Blanc has a crisp, herbal mouthfeel, with a melon-like brightness. La Sirena 2011 Moscato Azul (Napa Val- Just a touch of green pepper and jalapeño muddle the WHITE BLENDS ley-Paso Robles). Winemaker Heidi Barrett finish.Best Buy. —V.B. 91 was making Moscato way before the current craze start- abv: 12.8% Price: $8 Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vine- ed, so you can call her a visionary. Her 2011, an unusual yard Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian Riv- 91 blend of fruit from Napa Valley and Paso Robles, is a Pine and Brown 2011 Sauvignon Blanc er Valley). For full review see page 8. real crowd pleaser. Tasted in May of 2012, it’s a little (Napa Valley). A simple little Sauvignon abv: 13.9% Price: $28 84 spritzy, which gives a nice, clean edge to the orange, Blanc, this is sweet and soft, with savory pineapple and vanilla and white flower flavors. While it’s dry, there’s lemon jam flavors. Oak brings a touch of vanilla and but- Peirano 2009 The Other White (Lodi). This a rich edge of honey. The alcohol is a refeshingly low tered toast. —S.H. Lodi-grown blend of 65% Chardonnay, 25% 85 12.8% by volume. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 12.8% Price: $30

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Y Rousseau 2011 Old Vines Colombard impression of having just bitten into a piece of water- skin and rose-hip tea, with a squirt of honey. Ham sand- 88 (Russian River Valley). This wine is strong melon. —V.B. wiches and sausages come to mind as food companions. in acidity and green, mouthwatering gooseberry flavors. abv: 12.7% Price: $16 —S.H. It’s so dry, your palate seeks out whatever fruity relief it abv: 13.4% Price: $15 can find, which comes in the form of limes, green apples Miraflores 2011 Estate Barbera Rosé (El and a squirt of honey. Very clean and elegant. Editors’ 88 Dorado). Made from 100% Barbera, this has Curtis 2011 Heritage Rosé (Santa Bar- Choice. —S.H. perfumed aromatics and flavors of raspberry and peach. 84 bara County). This is a ruggedly simple blush abv: 12.8% Price: $18 It’s sweetness is in check—ideal for food with some wine, with lots of acidity and some and dried heat, like Thai or Mexican. —V.B. herb flavors. It’s saved by a just-in-time flavor of black J. Wilkes 2011 Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria abv: 13.4% Price: $17 cherry candy. —S.H. 87 Valley). This affordable bottling is worth seek- abv: 14.3% Price: $18 ing out. It tastes like of a hybrid of Chardonnay and Sau- Clos du Lac 2011 Chalaye Rosé (El Dora- vignon Blanc, with creamy flavors of oranges and limes, 87 do County). Ruby dark in hue, this has a light Rare NV 4 Grape Blend Rosé (Califor- brightened by crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. fruity aroma of watermelon, strawberry and mint. It’s 83 nia). Simple and silky, this is fairly sweet in abv: 14.5% Price: $12 easy drinking and dry. Its slow buildup of acidity lingers apricot and raspberry fruit. This is easy to drink at pic- on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. nics and similar everyday occasions. —S.H. Mahoney 2011 Las Brisas Vineyard Ver- abv: 13.3% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10 87 mentino (Carneros). What a delicious, mouth-watering wine to serve with appetizers. It’s crisp Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Rose in acidity and rich in orange, apricot and peach flavors 87 of Pinot Noir (Livermore Valley). Picked CABERNETS & BLENDS that finish a little sweet. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. underripe, the Pinot Noir grapes for this wine spent no Colgin 2008 IX Estate Red Wine (Napa time in oak and retained plenty of natural acidity, which abv: 13% Price: $15 Valley). This is an absolutely beautiful wine to accents the thick, intense strawberry and cherry-vanilla 99 drink now, but the richness comes at the price of con- Jacuzzi 2011 Arneis (California). Made in flavors that pop on the midpalate. Finishes with some siderable alcohol. The color is dark and impenetrable, a seemingly off-dry style, this offers simple but zing, so sip this with or without food. —V.B. 84 the aromas huge in Cabernet-inspired blackberries and pleasant apricot, peach and white flower flavors, with abv: 14% Price: $22 black currants, with a touch of something herbal and bright acidity. It’s tastes similar to Pinot Grigio in many also a stony minerality. There’s also a fascinating peati- respects. —S.H. Rock Wall 2011 Uncle Roget’s Gre- ness, like an Islay Scotch. It really opens up in the glass, abv: 14% Price: $16 nache Rosé (Yolo County). A wisp of a wine 87 becoming ever more complex. It’s great Napa Valley that’s dark-salmon in color, this is made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, but that high alcohol may limit its Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Gewürztra- Grenache grapes grown near the town of Davis. It’s dry, ageability. —S.H. miner (Russian River Valley). This is a soft, light and fun, offering a strawberry and watermelon 82 abv: 15.6% Price: $290 simple wine. It shows good Gewürztraminer character fruitiness, with a trace of spice on the end. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $18 in its spiciness, but it’s mild in flavor, with a sweet fin- David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate ish. —S.H. Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For abv: 13.8% Price: $18 Field Stone 2011 Heritage Block Rosé of 99 full review see page 3. Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). Full bod- 86 abv: 14.8% Price: $150 ied and rich, as you’d expect a Petite Sirah rosé would SPARKLING WINE be, this has cherry and sweet toast flavors, with a certain Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cab- elegance. The winemaker suggests pairing this with sau- South Coast NV Ruby Cuvée Syrah (Tem- ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). sages. —S.H. 98 ecula Valley). South Coast’s winemaker used For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. 85 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 100% Syrah from the 2010 vintage to make this fun, red abv: 14.1% Price: $70 sparkler, which was once upon a time known as Cold Matchbook 2011 Rosé of Tempranillo Duck. It takes advantage of Syrah’s big, bold berry fla- Gandona 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dunnigan Hills). A light, dry, and yummy vors, while smelling intensely sweet, like a Jamba Juice 86 (Napa Valley). A dramatic wine, this is rich, wine made from Tempranillo, Syrah and Malbec. It has 97 smoothie. Very foamy on opening; let it settle and drink full bodied and incredibly complex, laced with notes berry and watermelon flavors—even a hint of mint— it supercold. —V.B. of ripe, sweet blackberries and crème de cassis, with a with a balance of acidity and richness on the finish.Best abv: 12% Price: $22 spirituous heat from relatively high alcohol. Its pedigree Buy. —V.B. is clear throughout the entire tasting experience. This abv: 13.6% Price: $10 is a really gorgeous Cabernet, showing refinement and grace, but it is very tannic. Give it at least 10 years. Cel- ROSÉS Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Estate Bottled lar Selection. —S.H. Isabel Mondavi 2011 Deep Rosé of Cab- Rosé (Edna Valley). Slightly sweet and heavy 85 abv: 15.1% Price: $190 89 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). To call this on the palate, this has raspberry jam and vanilla flavors. rosé deep is an understatement. In color and body, it’s It’s balanced by crisp Edna Valley acidity—a wine that Ovid 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). With almost a red wine. But it does have the silky delicacy of will pair nicely with ham or sausage. —S.H. a beautiful purple color, this wine quickly exhib- a blush wine, and is frankly delicious in cherry jam, red abv: 13% Price: $24 97 its classic Cabernet aromas of black currants and cedar. licorice and Dr. Pepper flavors. It finishes thoroughly In the mouth, it’s full bodied and concentrated, show- dry, and the acidity is racy. —S.H. MacPhail 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (So- ing powerful, sweet blackberry fruit. It’s incredibly re- abv: 13.2% Price: $20 noma Coast). A little heavy for a rosé, this 85 fined, impressively structured, massive, impeccable and has jammy raspberry and cola flavors. But it’s nicely frankly delicious. This should develop over the next 20 La Clarine Farm 2011 Syrah-Mourvèdre dry, with crisp acidity. Try with tempura or a juicy ham­ years, at least. —S.H. Rosé (Sierra Foothills). Winemaker Hank burger. —S.H. 89 abv: 14.8% Price: $195 Beckmeyer presses Syrah and Mourvèdre to make this abv: 14.5% Price: $20 rosé, hoping that in the process he’ll best preserve the Bryant Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon wine’s aromas and also keep it tasting fresh. He’s creat- Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Rosé of Syr- (Napa Valley). Rich and smooth in tannins, ed a nutty wine that’s dominant in strawberry and stone ah (Sta. Rita Hills). Here’s a simple rosé, 96 85 with some sharpness through the finish, this shows fruit flavors. It’s very light and dry, leaving you with the dryish and tart in acidity, with savory flavors of cherry

WineMag.com | 53 masses of ripe blackberries and dark chocolate. A bit Von Strasser 2009 Sori Bricco Vineyard age. Give it at least eight years, and it could be one that of time in the glass reprises and accentuates the choco- 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- lasts decades. Cellar Selection. —S.H. laty richness. Despite its power, this is refined and high tain). This portion of the winery’s vineyard always abv: 14.8% Price: $125 toned, a serious cellar candidate. Give it 10–15 years. yields Cabernets of enormous concentration with hard Cellar Selection. —S.H. tannins. The 2009 is a classic, detonating in the mouth Piña 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet abv: 15% Price: $335 with laserlike blackberry and cassis flavors, to which 94 Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see new oak brings additional richness of smoky cedar. It’s page 4. Cellar Selection. Duckhorn 2008 Monitor Ledge Vineyard really a beautiful wine, but very tannic, even by Von abv: 14.8% Price: $85 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is Strasser standards. Give it at least eight years, and it an extraordinarily ripe, flashy Cabernet Sauvignon, one could be drinking well 20 years from now. Cellar Se- Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard Cabernet Sau- of Duckhorn’s new red wines that is among the most im- lection. —S.H. 94 vignon (Yountville). For full review see page pressive in years. The wine is densely packed in sweet abv: 14.1% Price: $80 4. Cellar Selection. red and black currant fruit, chocolate and licorice fla- abv: 15.2% Price: $85 vors, wrapped into firm tannins, with a bone-dry finish. Von Strasser 2009 Spaulding Vineyard Just fantastic to experience now, and it should easily de- 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- Von Strasser 2009 Vineyard 2131 Caber- velop over at least a decade. —S.H. tain). This has so much rich earth and minerality, it’s 94 net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Very abv: 14.5% Price: $95 like a journey deep into a mine. It’s noted the vines pure in blackberries and black currants, this expresses were planted in 1970, and the wine does have that old- the classic taste of Cabernet Sauvignon. New oak adds Duckhorn 2008 Patzimaro Vineyard Cab- vine concentration of fruit in the form of massively in- a lovely veneer of smoky, cedary cigar box. It’s beautiful 96 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Huge, rich tense blackberries. Then there’s the smoky new oak, to drink now for the soft, velvety texture and appealing- and flamboyant, this hasa sweetness at its core—like which adds such a lusciously sweet jacket of buttered ly sweet complexity, but should age gradually for many the essence of red and black currants, with an elaborate toast. Tannic and tight in the way of Diamond Mountain years. —S.H. note of caramel imparted from smoky oak. Yet every- Cabernets, this should begin to come into its own after abv: 14.1% Price: $80 thing about it is utterly and properly dry. The vineyard is 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. in St. Helena, not quite in the Spring Mountain appel- abv: 14.1% Price: $80 D.R. Stephens 2009 Moose Valley Vine- lation, yet showing the fruit concentration firm tannins 93 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). of mountain-grown grapes. Just a stupendous wine; try Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Flashy and delicious, this just blows your mind. It’s like after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review the essence of the ripest, purest blackberries, with a abv: 14.5% Price: $95 see page 4. note of crème de cassis and the sweet appeal of melted abv: 15.1% Price: $135 dark chocolate. It’s a soft wine, but grippy in tannins, Montagna 2009 La Presa One South Cab- which gives it good structure. Your best bet may be to 96 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Absolutely Duckhorn 2008 Rector Creek Vineyard drink it over the next six years. —S.H. delicious and a joy to drink, this tastes like fine blackber- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). So abv: 14.5% Price: $135 ry preserves spread onto buttered whole-wheat toast, rich and seemingly sweet in black currant, chocolate sprinkled with cinnamon and black pepper. Despite the fudge and toasted oak flavors, you can hardly keep from Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate rich sweetness, the finish is bone dry. But the tannins drinking the whole bottle now. But that would be a mis- 93 Grown (Napa Valley). For full review see are considerable, giving the mouthfeel a furry astrin- take. You don’t want to age it so long that all the fruit page 5. Cellar Selection. gency. This elegant, pure, young Cabernet should begin drops out, but 8–10 years in the cellar should do just abv: 14.5% Price: $125 to open in 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. fine.Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Es- 93 tate Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley). Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sau- Duckhorn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon For full review see page 5. 96 vignon (Oakville). For full review see page 3. 94 (Howell Mountain). For full review see page abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Cellar Selection. 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Melanson 2009 Matthew’s Block Caber- 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With its big, Von Strasser 2009 Agira Vineyard Cab- Montagna 2009 Tre Vigneti Cabernet hard tannins, this is one for the cellar. There’s a certain 96 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). An 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This starts out austerity that suggests the rocky soils of this mountain awesome wine—this is so massively intense in black- closed and tight, shut down by tannins and immaturity, vineyard. But the fruit, packed into a dense core, is ripe berry, blueberry and cassis flavors, it’s hard to believe. but plenty of swirling reveals elusive black-licorice and and suggestive of blackberry and cherries. The youth- From the first sip though the middle palate, it’s seem- blackberry notes, accented by smoky oak. The tannins ful brawniness softens after some time in the glass or ingly sweet with a fruity essence, but the finish is dry really kick in toward the middle, but hard as they are, decanter, but you’re best off aging it until 2019 or so. and firm. Drink now and for 8–10 years, at the very they exhibit great breed. Despite its sweet core of fruit, Cellar Selection. —S.H. least. —S.H. this is nowhere close to being ready. Give it 10 years. abv: 14.8% Price: $67 abv: 14.1% Price: $80 Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50 Topel 2007 Extended Elevage Cabernet La Sirena 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). There’s 95 (Napa Valley). You will want to age this Cab- Parallel 2009 Black Diamonds Cabernet something about this wine that strongly suggests it will ernet—8 or 10 years of development is the only way 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Very rich, ripe and improve in the cellar after a good bit of aging. As it is, to allow the hard tannins to begin to melt away, allow- dramatically textured, this has explosive flavors of black- it’s dry, smooth, tannic and intense, with concentrated ing the fabulous core of blackberries, currants and dark berry, crème de cassis, dried herb and smoked meat blackberry and black currant flavors, and a buttered chocolate to emerge. It’s hard to exaggerate the wine’s flavors, enriched by smoky oak. It shows the tough, hard toast note from aging in oak. It’s completely delicious, depth; it’s so elegantly pure, concentrated and focused. tannins you often find in low production mountain Cab- but if you can keep from popping the cork, it should re- Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2018, and ernets. Made by the well-known consulting winemaker, ward after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. it could still be providing pleasure 20 years from now. Philippe Melka, it has the structure of a wine that needs abv: 14.4% Price: $50 Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $150 Villa del Lago 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Napa Valley). This starts out a bit coarse,

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 with strong tannins that have a rough-edged feeling. It’s Super Sonoman 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Y Rousseau 2009 Le Roi Soleil Cabernet very rich in blackberries and black currants, but show- 92 gnon (Knights Valley). Flashy and delicious, 91 Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Here’s a Cab- ing more power than elegance. Time in the glass cer- this could even grow in the bottle with a few years of ernet to lay down in the cellar for 6–8 years—or even tainly opens it up, revealing a rich, heady cassis note. aging, becoming earthier and drier in fruit. Otherwise, longer. Two things mark it: the extremely ripe, concen- While the alcohol is high, it may easily develop bottle it’s perfectly fine now—a soft, complex wine, with brisk trated blackberry and black currant fruit, and the hefty complexity over the next 10–15 years. —S.H. acidity and flavors of blackberry, black currant and tannins. Most people will probably open it too soon and abv: 15.4% Price: $225 mocha. —S.H. miss out on what it could be, when the tannins drop abv: 15.2% Price: $85 out to reveal its sweet fruity essence. Cellar Selection. Von Strasser 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon —S.H. 93 (Diamond Mountain). An enormously ap- Super Sonoman 2007 Meritage (Sonoma abv: 14.3% Price: $65 pealing Cabernet, this is nearly as good as the magnifi- 92 County). Dry, rich and intricate, this is clearly cent but more expensive ’09 Estate, showing concen- capable of aging. The tannins are still pretty fierce, and Dominus 2009 Estate Bottled Red Wine trated blackberry, blueberry, cassis and mineral flavors buried under them is a dense core of blackberry and 90 (Napa Valley). While this is not the best that are wrapped into firm Diamond Mountain tannins. currant fruit—a testament to the near-perfect vintage Dominus vintage, it does show elegantly smooth tan- Beautiful to drink now and over the next six years. Edi- conditions. The Bordeaux-style blend is mainly based nins, dryness and earthiness that accompanies the tors’ Choice. —S.H. on Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it until 2016. Cellar Se- black­berry and cassis fruit. It’s curiously soft, which abv: 13.5% Price: $45 lection. —S.H. might limit its ageability. Shows an uncanny similarity abv: 14.5% Price: $75 to the 2000. —S.H. Von Strasser 2009 Post Vineyard Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $179 93 net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). No- Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve table for its richness and structure, this offers the most 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard delicious blackberry, cassis and toasted oak flavors. Firm Close in quality to Cabernets costing far more, this has 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). minerality and intense tannins provide a solid founda- elaborate blackberry, cherry and currant flavors. The For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection. tion for all the richness. Drink now–2017. —S.H. all-important mouthfeel is dry and crisp, with fine tan- abv: 14.3% Price: $50 abv: NA Price: $80 nins. It’s not an ager, but shows plenty of class. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Jason-Stephens 2006 Monte Bello Road Wallis Family Estate 2009 Cabernet Sau- 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- 93 vignon (Diamond Mountain). A great follow- Markham 2008 The Philanthropist Yount- tains). A six-year-old Cabernet that’s heady with savory up to the winery’s 2008, this continues a roll of classy 91 ville Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- herbal tones, it has a finely tuned structure that needs Diamond Mountain-based Cabs from Wallis Family. It’s gnon (Napa Valley). This is bone dry, with plenty of time to open and could be cellared even more. This is a dry, softly tannic and likeable for its depth of blackberry, acidity and tough tannins. It’s not offering much relief, beautiful wine with ripe flavors of black cherry and pep- cherry, currant and cedar flavors. This straddles the line despite an evident core of blackberries, currants and per, and plenty of complexity to keep it interesting over between immediate drinkability and ageability. —S.H. cherries. Those tannins really lock the palate down, like a meal. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $65 a sandpaper straitjacket on the tongue. But you have to abv: 14.9% Price: $70 consider its origin in Yountville, a cool area noted for Cobblestone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ageable wines. It hould begin to resolve its difficulties Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2009 Artemis 92 (Atlas Peak). Absolutely delicious, this floods by 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This the mouth with rich flavors of blackberry jam, crème de abv: 14.5% Price: $50 has lots of ripe, plush blackberry, olive and dark choco- cassis, cocoa and smoky, buttery oak. It’s soft and gentle, late flavors. It packs a punch that lasts into a long, spicy so it may not be one for the cellar, but it sure is great to Meyer Family 2009 Fluffy Billows Cab- finish. Delicious, classy, and lovely to drink now, al- drink now. —S.H. 91 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). If the name though it will evolve through at least 2018. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $44 of this wine suggests that it’s comforting to drink now, abv: 14.5% Price: $55 it’s perfectly apt. Although it hails from Oakville, whose D.R. Stephens 2009 Walther River Block Cabernets are among the most ageable in Napa Valley, Topel 2007 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is this shows an accessibility that makes the black currant 90 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Dry and smoothly very rich, with flavors of melted milk chocolate, black and cedar flavors immediately appealing. —S.H. tannic, this will have wide appeal, both to novices and cherry pie, black currant, toasted almond, brown but- abv: 14.1% Price: $45 even experts who will appreciate its complexity. With ter and smoky oak. Tastes like a granola candy bar, but black cherry and cola flavors, it has a nice jacket of oak a very expensive one, with gorgeous tannins and a long, Wallis Family Estate 2009 Little Sister that brings a smoky richness to the fruit. Drink now– sweet, mind-blowing finish. It’s hard to imagine aging 91 Red Wine (Diamond Mountain). Delicious 2013. —S.H. anything this soft and delicious—drink soon. —S.H. now, this has waves of blackberries, cherries, currants, abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 15.3% Price: $125 dark chocolate, spices and oak. It seems almost sweet, but the finish is a swirl of dry tannins. Might develop Trig Point 2009 Diamond Dust Vineyard Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cab- over the long haul, and will it certainly last to 2015. Give 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). 92 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full it a few hours in the decanter. —S.H. For full review see page 9. review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Wattle Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Varozza 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. La Sirena 2009 Pirate TreasuRed (Napa 91 (Alexander Valley). This is classic Alexander 90 Helena). This 100% Cabernet has a good 92 Valley). Whatever the blend is on this red Valley Cabernet Sauvignon—in an old-fashioned way. structure and plenty of ripe, flashy blackberry and blue- wine, and winemaker Heidi Barrett isn’t saying, it’s re- That’s not a back-handed compliment, it’s a testimony berry jam and cassis flavors. It’s a bit coarse now in tan- ally interesting. The bottle is old-fashioned and stubby, to the wine’s dryness and herbaceousness, and the soft nins, which undoubtedly is a function of youth. Give it like something from the 1700s. The wine itself is imme- quality of its tannins. The blackberry, olive and cedar another five years, by which time it should be throw- diately likeable for its spicy array of spices and berries. flavors are delicious, and the wine will develop bottle ing lots of tannins, so be prepared to decant it carefully. Despite its upfront appeal, there’s a complexity that el- complexity over the next 10 years or so. —S.H. Cellar Selection. —S.H. evates it. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $42 abv: 14.7% Price: $75 abv: NA Price: $60

WineMag.com | 55 Boyanci 2009 InSpire Cabernet Sauvi- Farrier 2009 Presshouse Red (Alexander Paraduxx 2009 C Blend Red Wine (Napa 89 gnon (Napa Valley). Rich and crowd pleas- 87 Valley). Rich and tasty, this is a big wine that’s 87 Valley). The C Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon ing, this has flashy blackberry, black currant and spice ripe in blackberries, black currants and mocha, yet bal- blended with Zinfandel. It’s fine, dry and robust, bear- flavors. It’s textbook Napa Cabernet, if a little upfront anced with rich tannins and fine acidity. The blend is ing rich blackberry and plum sauce flavors, with some in its appeal. —S.H. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere. authentic Napa elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $60 —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 14.6% Price: $24 Chalk Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Car- Paraduxx 2009 Z Blend Red Wine (Napa 88 menère (Chalk Hill). This unusual blend is Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Valley). Zinfandel has been blended in with robust and sweet in blackberries, dark chocolate and 87 (Lodi). For full review see page 10. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create this blend. plums, with lots of toasty, caramelized oak. It’s forward, abv: 14.5% Price: $18 The Zinfandel makes the wine briary and spicy, taking soft and delicious, but could be more nuanced. —S.H. away from Cabernet’s elegance. Still, it’s a very good abv: 15.5% Price: $85 Herzog 2009 Single Vineyard Cabernet wine—robust, fruity and dry. —S.H. 87 Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Very soft, this abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Duckhorn 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon has a melted quality to the blackberry, cherry liqueur 88 (Napa Valley). Ripe to the point of overripe, and cedar flavors. Everything about it is so fine, though Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon with a sweet raisin edge to the blackberry flavor. Still, it could have a firmer structure. Still, it’s an elaborate 87 (Oakville). This shows good blackberry and the structure is elegant, showing fine tannins and good wine that will pair well with beef or lamb. Drink now. black currant flavors, with the smooth, rich tannins for balance. Probably best over the next 1–3 years. —S.H. —S.H. which Oakville is noted. But there’s no particular inten- abv: 14.5% Price: $68 abv: 14% Price: $75 sity or ageworthiness. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Hestan 2007 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Houdini 2008 Glendale Ranch Cabernet 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe and forward, 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Still dry and tan- Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon this has lots of jammy blackberry and cherry fruit fla- nic, this has a hard, brittle mouthfeel and lots of tart 87 (Rutherford). Good and classy, if somewhat vors, all coated with sweet, smoky oak. It’s a bit over- acidity. It has a gigantic core of blackberry fruit. —S.H. ordinary for Rutherford. It shows delicious black-cherry ripe, with a note of plumped raisin, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 candy and mocha flavors, with smooth, refined tannins, abv: 14.6% Price: $45 but lacks the structure and concentration needed for ag- Icaria 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- ing, especially at this price. —S.H. Owl Ridge 2007 T.R. Passalacqua Vine- 87 der Valley). Dry, tannic and tartly acidic, this abv: 14.1% Price: $80 88 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek has the herbaceous earthiness often found in Alexander Valley). This Cabernet has a wonderfully smooth tex- Valley Cabernets, but it’s rich enough in cherries and Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ture. It’s tasty and rich in blackberry fruit, with a touch sweet oak to satisfy. It doesn’t seem like an ager, but it’s 87 (Stags Leap District). Tastes like sweet, of sweet, savory raisin and lots of exotic spice. Easy to an elegantly smooth wine to drink now. —S.H. spicy blackberry jam, with an overripe note of prune drink this dry wine over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 lurking in the background, which will limit the wine’s abv: 14.5% Price: $35 age-­worthiness. It’s fine in tannins and acids, with plenty Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Cabernet of elegance, but it seems too sweet for true classic Stags Black Ridge 2008 San Andreas Red Wine 87 Sauvignon (Santa Clara Valley). This is an Leap character. —S.H. 87 (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a bit rustic, appealing Cabernet with spicy cola and plum notes and abv: 14.1% Price: $85 with superripe blackberry flavors that veer into raisins. a consistent flavor through the midpalate. It finishes As a consequence, there’s a fruity sweetness at its core. with a hint of toasty oak. —V.B. Pine Ridge 2009 Fortis Cabernet Sauvi- It’s also extremely tannic. While it’s flashy and impres- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 87 gnon (Napa Valley). This is a blend of the sive, it won’t benefit from age due to its inherent insta- winery’s vineyard sources in Rutherford and Stags Leap. bilities. —S.H. Kunde 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- It’s very delicious and complex in blackberry and blue- abv: 14.7% Price: $49 87 gnon (Sonoma Valley). Tasty and easy to berry jam, cola, mocha and smoky oak flavors, but is sur- drink, this has blackberry, black currant and cola fla- prisingly soft. It’s almost as if the tannins and acids were Buehler 2009 Papa’s Knoll Estate Bottled vors that finish seemingly sweet and oaky. It’s an intense taken out. Drink up. —S.H. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine that doesn’t seem likely to make gains with age, so abv: NA Price: $150 is warm in alcohol, which lends a slight burn, but the drink up after an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H. blackberry fruit is pure and savory. It’s dry, with good abv: 14.7% Price: $45 Sean Minor 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon supporting acidity and rich tannins, but the alcohol 87 (Napa Valley). A nice Cabernet for drinking might limit its ageability, so drink soon. —S.H. Markham 2008 The Altruist Cabernet now, this is basically dry, but has so much ripe black­ abv: 14.6% Price: $45 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine re- berry and cherry fruit that there’s an impression of mains astringent in tannins, with a lockded-down sweetness. With soft tannins and an edge of toasty oak, Chalk Hill 2009 Merlot-Malbec (Chalk mouthfeel that’s hard to get past. But it’s very rich in it shows plenty of Napa class. —S.H. 87 Hill). Tasting sweet and hot, this sure is ripe. blackberry and cherry fruit. Is it worth aging? It’s hard abv: 13.5% Price: $22 It has extracted flavors of jammy blackberry, cherry and to tell if 10 years will be of benefit, but the tannins seem cola. Drink now. —S.H. likely to outlast the fruit. Drink up over the next 5–6 Shannon Ridge 2009 Ranch Collection abv: 15.4% Price: $85 years. —S.H. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). A de- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 lightfully fresh, fruity Cabernet with notes of cassis and Earthquake 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon cranberry, this is on the red fruit side of the Cabernet 87 (Lodi). Earthquake wines often hit you quite Owl Ridge 2007 Brigden Vineyard Caber- aroma and flavor spectrum. The wine’s clutch of tannins deliberately over the head with oak and tannin, but this 87 net Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A little are balanced out on the vanilla-flavored finish, and the is nicely done. It’s big and very fruity, with cranberry on the slender side, but this is respectable for its dry, wine’s small amounts of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Malbec and cassis notes intermingled with a blackberry flavor. balanced texture and pleasant blackberry and black cur- add layers of vibrancy. —V.B. Smooth throughout, the wine finishes with a delicious rant flavors. It shows real elegance, too, although it’s not abv: 14.5% Price: $19 hit of toffee and vanilla. —V.B. one for the cellar, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 William Hill Estate 2008 Estate Cabernet 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Give this wine

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 credit for richness. It’s tremendous in blackberry, blue- mouth, and chewy, like a gristly piece of steak you can’t Daglia Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon berry, plum and mocha flavors, with a nice earthiness. quite break down. It’s certainly rich in blackberry, black 85 (Napa Valley). This shows a certain richness, It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. currant and smoky oak flavors, and is properly dry and with black currant, cola and cedar flavors. It’s easy to abv: 14.3% Price: $35 brisk in acidity. But you have to wonder if that tough- drink with just about anything that calls for a dry, full- ness will ever age out. —S.H. bodied red. —S.H. Bacio Divino 2009 Reserve Cabernet abv: 14.9% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $18 86 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This soft, gen- tle Cabernet doesn’t have much structure, but it’s rich Minassian-Young 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Decoy 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa in blackberry, currant and dark chocolate flavors, and 86 gnon (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet, gentle and 85 County). An easy Cabernet, delivering plenty thoroughly dry. The finish is hot like a jalapeño pepper. Porty, this has dark chocolate, blackberry and buttered of ripe, juicy blackberry jam and dark chocolate flavors. —S.H. rum flavors. It’s quite generous and delicious in the Paso It finishes a little on the sweet side. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $80 hot-climate way. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.9% Price: $24 Boyanci 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). A Decoy 2010 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This 86 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with some other Noble Vines 2009 337 Cabernet Sauvi- 85 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit classic Bordeaux varieties and a splash of Syrah, this is 86 gnon (Lodi). This is a fleshy, fairly priced Cab- Verdot has some oak flavors on top of the jammy black- a sweet, chocolaty wine, with a blackberry note and a ernet from the 337 clone (hence the name), that has berries and cherries. It’s simple and direct; ideal for crème de cassis headiness. Drink now. —S.H. notes of dark cherry fruit and baking spice throughout, drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $110 with just a trace of coconut on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Chalk Hill 2009 Clara’s Vineyard Red F.J. Serra 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- 86 Wine (Chalk Hill). This shows opulent black- Peters Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 85 ifornia). Jangly in the mouth, with an uneven berry and chocolate flavors that are delicious and heady. 86 (Sonoma Mountain). This is tartly sweet and tannin structure that makes it a bit rough. But there’s But it’s very high in alcohol, which gives it a burn and a jammy, like a cherry and roasted almond candy bar with plenty of jammy cherry and berry fruit. Drink now with glycerine-like sweetness. It’s a Bordeaux blend, with the a chocolate coating. Tasty, but a little one dimensional. a hearty beef stew. —S.H. addition of Syrah. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 15.6% Price: $85 abv: 14.4% Price: $55 Miro 2009 Silverwood Vineyard Moun- Chime 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Col- 85 tain Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- 86 noma County). Exceptionally ripe and juicy, 86 lection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake Coun- der Valley). Toasty, caramelized oak and sweet heat with briary wild-blackberry and cherry flavors. It’s a ty). Made from grapes grown at a high elevation, this from high alcohol dominate this wine. The blackberry good wine, a little coarse, but nicely dry and spicy. A Cabernet tastes of oaky plum and has a slight layer of and cherry fruit flavors are very ripe. Drink now. —S.H. brief decant will help soften the tannins. —S.H. sage in the background that rounds out the wine. Aged abv: 15.1% Price: $28 abv: 13.8% Price: $19 in French and American oak, it’s ready to drink now, as its cherry and raspberry flavors are currently shin- Muscardini 2009 Madrone Ridge Vine- Crooked Path 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ing. —V.B. 85 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- 86 (Paso Robles). Plenty of rich, hearty black- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 ley). This very dry Cabernet feels rugged and gritty in berry, cherry, currant and spice flavors are found in this the mouth, with too much acidity that lends bite. The soft wine. A little on the sweet side, it’s throwing some Topel 2008 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet austerity is relieved by black cherry and sweet tobacco sediment, so decant it before service. —S.H. 86 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Soft, dry and flashy, flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 this has pie-filling flavors of blackberries and cherries, abv: 14.9% Price: $39 with some heat from the alcohol. The smoky spiciness Hawk Watch Winery 2008 Signature and firm tannins suggest pairing it with steak. —S.H. Muscardini 2010 Rancho Salina Caber- 86 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (South abv: 14.3% Price: $40 85 net Sauvignon-Merlot (Sonoma Valley). Coast). There’s no denying the showy, ripe fruit that Overripe, juicy and soft, this has baked fruit flavors, emanates from the bottle—a mix of herbal cranberry White Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon like blackberries and cherries in a pie. Oak adds to the and caramel. It’s soft and round, and if you’re interested 86 (Napa Valley). Despite some rich blackberry sweetness with sugary caramel. It’s rich, but it lacks in how Cabernet from the South Coast can taste, this and currant flavors, a rich overlay of oak and smooth complexity and ageworthiness. —S.H. one’s worth a try. —V.B. tannins, this Cabernet is a little off in texture. It’s gritty abv: 14.7% Price: $49 abv: 15.8% Price: $42 in the mouth, but it is nicely dry, and has a certain com- plexity. —S.H. Napa Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Hess 2009 Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.6% Price: $30 85 (Napa Valley). Seemingly sweet cherry, mo- 86 (Napa Valley). Properly varietal, dry and cha and oak flavors mark this ripe Cabernet. It offers smoothly tannic, this has a ripe, rich blackberry-jam Benziger 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- plenty of fruity pleasure. —S.H. flavor, with a healthy overlay of sweet, smoky oak. It’s a 85 noma County). This is a solid, everyday Cab- abv: 14.1% Price: $22 fine wine for drinking now. —S.H. ernet for drinking with simple fare. It’s soft and simple abv: 14.4% Price: $28 in structure, but the blackberry and mocha flavors are Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon tasty. Drink now. —S.H. 85 (Howell Mountain). Ripe to the point of be- Hess Collection 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 ing overripe, this has a sweet raisin and prune note to 86 gnon (Mount Veeder). Small amounts of the blackberry flavor. It’s clear that the winemaker was Malbec and Merlot bring some additional complexity to Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Cabernet trying to make a flashy, opulent Cab, but this one carries this Cabernet, but it’s still a pretty straightforward wine. 85 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in a popu- it over the top. Not likely to benefit from age, so drink Soft and dry, it has generous flavors of blackberry and lar style, this is a soft, slightly sweet and very fruity Cab- up. —S.H. new oak. Drink now. —S.H. ernet. It has candied cherry, roasted almond, honey and abv: 14.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.6% Price: $48 spice flavors, wrapped in a smoothly tannic framework. —S.H. Riboli 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth- Houdini 2008 Palisades Ranch Caber- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 85 erford). This is sharper and more rustic than 86 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough in the most other expensive Rutherford Cabernets, with a cut

WineMag.com | 57 of citrusy acidity that dominates the cherry and herb fla- Paso Robles style, this is pretty sweet, soft and simple. and sour, this has a gluey texture that frames the cherry vors. While it’s tough and hard to appreciate now, you There’s not much complexity, but it has plenty of ripe cough-medicine flavors. —S.H. never know if these aggressive young wines will develop blackberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 with time. This one doesn’t seem like it will benefit, so abv: 14.1% Price: $20 drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $65 Weinstock Cellars 2009 Cellar Select OTHER RED BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County). 84 This La Sirena 2008 Art Bus Red (Calistoga). Rigg Estate Vineyards 2006 Reserve is nicely dry and rich in fine tannins, with classic Caber- A new wine from superstar winemaker Heidi Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). net blackberry, black currant, cola and cedar flavors. But 92 85 Barrett, and the label is one of the coolest ever. It’s ex- Very dark in color, this jumps out at first because it’s the wine is so soft, it lacks structural integrity. —S.H. traordinarily rich and opulent, with a tapestry-like silky showy and high in alcohol, with seemingly sweet over- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 complexity. The blackberry, cherry and olive flavors are tones that might appeal to lovers of brawny red wine. very ripe, yet it finishes wonderfully dry. —S.H. Lockwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon The oak, green pepper and olive undertones take over abv: 14.5% Price: $115 on the finish. —V.B. 83 (Monterey County). Drink this Cabernet abv: 15.5% Price: $85 with burgers. It’s dry, robust and fruity, with a strong cut Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend of acidity. —S.H. Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma Coun- Tangley Oaks 2007 Lot #10 Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 ty-San Joaquin County). For full review see page 8. Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There are good 85 Editors’ Choice. Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau- blackberry and black currant flavors in this dry Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 net, with an elegant coating of smoky oak, but it lacks 83 vignon (California). This is dry, with scouring some concentration. —S.H. tannins and some twiggy, stalky bitterness. It has just Cosa Obra 2009 Proprietor’s Blend Red enough blackberry flavor to get by. For the price, it’s abv: 14.2% Price: $23 (Sonoma County). Made from Syrah and Gr- fine for big parties. —S.H. 86 enache, this blend shows the strengths and weaknesses Vigilance 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red abv: 13% Price: $8 of its style. While it’s forwardly delicious and complex in Hills Lake County). This is a slightly herbal, 85 cherry, licorice, bacon, black pepper, mocha and sandal- well-structured Cabernet with upfront tannins and fla- Small Wonders 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- wood flavors, it’s rather soft. —S.H. gnon (Central Coast). Simple and sharp, this vors of ripe cherry and vanilla. It finishes with a taste of 83 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 marshmallow. —V.B. tastes like a chocolate-covered cherry candy, though it abv: 14.5% Price: $25 finishes dry. —S.H. Sean Minor 2009 Red Wine (Napa Val- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ley). There’s something distinguished about Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Reserve 86 this blend of several varieties, but also something Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made Lloyd of Calcareous 2008 Velvet Knees 84 one-dimensional. It’s pretty good for the price—dry, in a popular style, but this is seems sweet, like a Star- Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This 82 smoothly tannic and proper in blackberry, dark choco- bucks blackberry and mocha drink. It’s overripe, with a is way too soft and unstructured, especially at this price. late and cassis flavors. —S.H. It’s a sweet, syrupy wine, with blackberry jam and cocoa raisiny finish and some heat. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.7% Price: $45 flavors, and it’s also high in alcohol. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $56 Eleanor 2009 Red Wine (California). This Greystone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon expensive wine is softly tannic, earthy and fruity, (California). Not bad for the price, if you’re Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Cabernet 85 84 with dried herb and raspberry tea flavors. From Francis just looking for something dry, full bodied and fruity. A Sauvignon (Mendocino County). This run- 82 Ford Coppola. —S.H. of-the-mill wine lacks much in the way of varietal char- lot of people are, which makes this a pretty good bar- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 gain. —S.H. acter, and has an overbearing taste of alcohol. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Lost Angel 2008 Mischief (California). This is a pretty nice wine for drinking with Lost Angel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Pennywise 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 85 every­day fare, and at this price, it’s a real value. It packs (California). This has ripe blackberry and oak (California). Offering dry, sharp flavors of ber- 84 82 a punch, with solid blackberry and licorice flavors that flavors. It’s dry, full bodied and tannic enough to cut ries, mint and tobacco, it gets the job done. —S.H. finish dry and spicy. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 through a rich, ketchup-strewn cheeseburger. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Shale Canyon 2009 Pedregal Vineyard Bridlewood 2010 Blend 175 (Central RouteStock Cellars 2009 Route 29 Cab- Cabernet Sauvignon (Paicines). A hard 82 Coast). Made from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvi- ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Although Cabernet to like, with a rough texture and sweet-and- 84 84 gnon and Zinfandel, this is a simple wine. It has cherry this Cabernet bears a Napa Valley designation, it could sour cherry flavors. —S.H. and spice flavors, with a cut of acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $20 be from anywhere. It’s rich in tannins and has good abv: 13.5% Price: $15 blackberry and herb flavors that finish a little pruny. Snapping Turtle 2011 Cabernet Sauvi- —S.H. Minassian-Young 2010 Field Blend (Paso gnon (California). Simple and soft, this has abv: 13.5% Price: $22 82 Robles). This blend of Mourvèdre and Cou- flavors of sweet, candied fruit and buttered toast. —S.H. 84 noise is soft and sweet. It tastes like the wine version Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Cabernet abv: 12.5% Price: $11 of a milk-chocolate candy bar, infused with blackberry 84 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is a simple, Wayne Gretzky Estates 2008 Cabernet essence and alcohol. —S.H. soft, easy to drink Cabernet, with candied berry and abv: 14.7% Price: $25 spice flavors. The easiness suggests backyard barbecue, 81 Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is over- ripe in raisin and prune flavors, which gives it a dis- with sweetly grilled ribs and burgers on a summer eve- Pazzo 2009 Red (Napa Valley). From Ba- agreeable bitterness and sweetness. —S.H. ning. —S.H. cio Divino, this Sangiovese-based blend is curi- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 84 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ously soft. While it has forward cherry, cocoa and spice Twisted Sisters 2009 Matriarch Red Wine Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Cab- 84 (Paso Robles). Made in an old-fashioned 80 ernet Sauvignon (California). Harsh, sweet

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 flavors, it simply lacks structural integrity.The alcohol is lies the price. Fully drinkable now, it’s softly tannic and jam, mocha and spicy sandalwood flavors. There’s plenty evident on the warm, dry finish. —S.H. rich in cherry, red currant, licorice and mocha flavors of charm, but not much complexity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $32 that finish dry and spicy. Production was 9,904 cases. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Rare NV 4 Grape Blend (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Houdini 2008 Merlot (Oakville). Fruity and 84 Here’s a good, robust red wine. It’s made in a 85 simple, this Merlot tastes like the wine equiva- country-style, with tobacco, cherry and spice flavors Kimmel 2009 Merlot (Mendocino Coun- lent of a candied dessert pastry. It may not be techni- and a jagged mouthfeel. Drink it with tacos and burg- 90 ty). Powerfully lush and concentrated, this cally sweet, but it’s so extracted in raspberries, cherries ers. —S.H. has a heady layering of spice and tannins that coat the and caramelized oak that it seems sweet. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 back palate. With a big, fruity mouthfeel, this is ready abv: 15.1% Price: $30 for braised meats or herbed roast chicken with garlic Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Mountain smashed potatoes. —V.B. Lost Angel 2009 Merlot (California). Get 83 Cuvée (Sonoma County). This is way too abv: 14.5% Price: $38 85 a case of this and make it your house wine for soft for comfort, with soft tannins and slight acidity that easy drinking. It’s dry and spicy, and has enough cher- leave the fruit and alcohol to star. —S.H. Trig Point 2010 Diamond Dust Vineyard ry, berry and cola flavors to satisfy your tastebuds. Best abv: 13.9% Price: $24 90 Merlot (Alexander Valley). For full review Buy. —S.H. see page 9. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 LoveThisLife 2009 Red (California). With abv: 14.5% Price: $18 83 cherry, mocha and spice flavors, this is a good Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Merlot wine for drinking with a great cheeseburger. The price Chelsea Goldschmidt 2010 Merlot (Dry 85 (Mendocino County). This Merlot has good is fair for the quality. It’s a blend of Petite Sirah and 87 Creek Valley). Here’s a soft, juicy Merlot. It’s plum and cherry flavors up front and is straightforward Syrah. —S.H. loaded with cherry, mocha and smoky flavors, wrapped enough to pair with just about any food, but the finish abv: 14% Price: $13 into smooth tannins. It finishes dry and spicy. —S.H. falls a bit flat. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Cline 2011 Cashmere (California). This 82 blend seems to be trying to ride the current Concannon 2009 Conservancy Merlot Benziger 2008 Merlot (Sonoma County). craze for sweet red wines. It’s simple and thin, with 86 (Livermore Valley). This has flavors of dark 84 A soft, simple wine, this has flavors of cherry sharp acidity. —S.H. cherry and mint that hover above its herbal tendencies. candy, spice and oak. It’s getting a little tired, so drink abv: 13.5% Price: $16 It resolves nicely on the finish, with flavors of juicy plum up now. —S.H. and . —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Minassian-Young 2009 Junipero (Paso abv: 13.9% Price: $15 81 Robles). Marred by a vegetal taste, this has Geyser Peak 2008 Merlot (Alexander Val- hot, thin cherry and oak flavors. The blend is Mourvè- Mad Housewife 2009 Merlot (California). 84 ley). This is soft and simple, with mild cherry, dre, Zinfandel and Grenache. —S.H. 86 This is a Merlot with dark plum flavors, integrat- spice and cedar flavors. It’s not very rich, but it’s nice abv: 15.1% Price: $24 ed tannins and good structure. Juicy fruit and an appro- and dry. —S.H. priate level of herbaceousness in the background. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Plush 2010 Smooth Red (California). As Buy. —V.B. 81 its name states quite clearly, this is a plush, lush, abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Lockwood 2010 Merlot (Monterey Coun- smooth red wine. It’s sweet and jammy like a shot of 84 ty). There’s lots of cutting acidity in this dry Jell-O. —V.B. Newton 2008 Unfiltered Merlot (Napa Merlot. It has pleasant cherry-pie flavors, but the tart- abv: 13.5% Price: $8 86 Valley). Slender and dry, this has modest cher- ness really needs rich meats and cheeses to soften it. ry, herb and cedar flavors. It’s elegant enough, with a —S.H. Peirano 2009 The Other Red (Lodi). This supple mouthfeel, but there’s not a whole lot of rich- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 80 blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Mer- ness. This is not for aging. —S.H. lot and 10% Syrah was too sweet for this taster. It’s full abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Greystone 2010 Merlot (California). Drink of huge ripe fruit and a lingering aroma of burnt toast. 83 this easy Merlot at parties with burgers and piz- —V.B. Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (Califor- zas. It’s soft and dryish, with a candied cherry flavor. abv: 13.8% Price: $12 86 nia). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 13.5% Price: $11

MERLOT Tangley Oaks 2009 Lot #10 Merlot (Napa Cable Car 2009 Merlot (Lodi). This is an Valley). Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard 86 Rich and appealing, this feels classy, 82 herbal Merlot that tastes of toasty oak and fin- with smooth tannins framing cherry and licorice flavors. ishes slightly sweet. —V.B. Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see 95 —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Lange Twins 2008 Reserve Merlot Black Box 2010 Merlot (California). Once (Clarksburg). This Merlot is muted aromati- Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). For 82 again Black Box has come out with a fine, easy- cally. On the palate it’s gigantic in tannins—big and bold 91 full review see page 7. 85 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 drinking Merlot that many folks will like. It’s forward in for sure. —V.B. sour cherry, herb and cedar flavors, wrapped into a dry, abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Merlot silky texture. At the equivalent of $6.25 for a regular Maddalena 2007 Merlot (Paso Robles). 91 (Sonoma Valley). For full review see page 8. 750-ml bottle, it’s a bargain. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L 82 Still rather harsh, this is a rustic wine with cher- ry, cola and prune flavors. It’s not for aging. —S.H. Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve Decoy 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County). abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Merlot (Sonoma County). This is a lovely, 85 Sweet and direct, this has blackberry, cherry 90 House Band NV Merlot (California). Sold fully resolved Merlot. It shows a classy elegance that be- 81 in individual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs. The

WineMag.com | 59 Merlot is overripe and Porty, with a sweet prune fla- spicy finish. A joy to drink now, and it will develop bottle ture of acids, tannins and stony minerality. Upscale and vor. —S.H. nuances over the next six years. —S.H. elegant, it’s fine now, and should develop bottle com- abv: NA Price: $5/375 ml abv: 14.1% Price: $45 plexities over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Sanford 2010 Sanford & Benedict Vine- PETIT VERDOT 94 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a TR Elliott 2009 Queste Pinot Noir (Rus- sian River Valley). Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Ver- fancy restaurant-style Pinot Noir. That means it’s dry, 93 This is so seductive in rich, silky and rich, and has that elusive, undefinable qual- polished raspberry and cherry flavors, you can hardly 91 dot (St. Helena). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.8% Price: $38 ity of elegance that can accompany the finest Pinot- keep from drinking it now. But the acid and tannin bal- friendly foods, such as steak, lamb, grilled tuna or a wild ance on this Pinot Noir is just about perfect, giving it the Fenestra 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard Petit mushroom risotto. It’s tantalizingly crisp, with complex potential for at least six years in a good cellar. There’s an 88 Verdot (Livermore Valley). This wine opens cherry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now and through earthy, mushroomy complexity that could make it really with spicy cinnamon and clove aromas before div- 2016. —S.H. interesting down the road. —S.H. ing into soft, dark fruit, mellowed tannins and oak. It’s abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $44 brooding and zippy at the same time, and on the bal- Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma anced finish, it’s all mocha. —V.B. Maria Valley). Edi- County). abv: 13.9% Price: $33 94 For full review see page 4. 93 For full review see page 6. tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Yorkville Cellars 2009 Randle Hill Vine- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Amos Cellars 2010 Shepherd Anderson yard Petit Verdot (Yorkville Highlands). A 87 a-non-ah-mus 2009 Babcock Vineyard Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- Cabernet Sauvignon-like version of Petit Verdot, this 92 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). How this wine ley). Proprietor Jon McDaniel, a sommelier, has craft- has tame tannins and is all around soft and mellow, with 93 manages to be both sweet and bone dry at the same ed a Pinot Noir that’s modest in alcohol and brisk in straightforward berry and cedar notes. It would make a time is a mystery. It’s simply luscious, brimming with acidity, with an elegantly earthy touch. It’s rich in cher- fine food wine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $28 deliriously rich flavors of raspberry cream, cherry ries, pomegranates and dried herbs, a wine to savor and vanilla, gingerbread cookie and buttered cinnamon linger over as it warms up in the glass. —S.H. toast. It’s the Chardonnay version of Pinot Noir, creamy abv: 13.5% Price: $32 PINOT NOIR and honeyed. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $44 Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot Furthermore 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard 92 Noir (Carneros). Lovely, crisp acidity marks 95 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Showing love- Davis Family 2009 Starr Ridge Vineyard this dry, complex Pinot Noir. It’s not an ager, but very ly silkiness, dryness and transparency, this is a Pinot to 93 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With elegant, with delicate sour-cherry candy, cola and mush- drink now or age for a while. The flavors are rich but waves of raspberry, cherry, honeyed cream, cinnamon room flavors. A great wine to serve with mushroom- elusive, suggesting wild summer raspberries, cola, pine and caramelized oak flavors, this defines the word deli- based entrées. —S.H. needles and sautéed mushrooms splashed with balsam- cious. The richness is balanced by crisp acidity and deli- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ic, with the sweet smokiness of oak barrel aging. It’s del- cate tannins. Just superb to drink now; try pairing it with icate and powerful, but only 47 cases were produced. lamb that’s been salted and peppered, seasoned with a Calera 2009 Reed Pinot Noir (Mt. Har- —S.H. hint of rosemary. —S.H. 92 lan). This shows a delicate silkiness and a sweet abv: 14.7% Price: $50 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 essence of wild raspberries that make it fully ready to drink now. But that quality obscures its subtleties of Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel Drew 2010 Fog-Eater Pinot Noir (Ander- mineral, mushroomy earth and flower notes that add to 95 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 93 son Valley). Dry and racy, with an affinity for this Pinot’s great complexity. As good as it is now, it will ley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. a wide variety of foods. Made from two vineyards in this have no trouble negotiating the next decade. Cellar Se- —S.H. cool-climate appellation, it shows subtle earth, mush- lection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 room and eucalyptus notes that deepen the wild rasp- abv: 14.8% Price: $52 berry and cherry fruit. With brisk acidity and a flourish Sanford 2009 La Riconada Pinot Noir of tannins, it’s a fine wine to drink now and over the next Davis Family 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian 95 (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a grace and purity six years. —S.H. 92 River Valley). A consummate Russian River to this Pinot Noir that make it particularly recommend- abv: 13.6% Price: $42 Pinot Noir in an accessible style. This is simply enchant- able. It’s so light and silky, it just glides like a butterfly ing, like raspberry-infused silk dusted with brown but- across the palate. But it’s extraordinarily rich in wild Drew 2010 Morning Dew Vineyard Pinot ter, cinnamon and vanilla. Showing just beautifully now, raspberry and cherry fruit, and the white pepper and 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). Another great An- this is soft and gentle, and it should glide through the baking spices make it savory. Delicious now, but it derson Valley Pinot from Drew, made using fruit from next six years. —S.H. should prosper over the next eight years, at least. —S.H. a vineyard in Philo—the “deep end” or coolest section abv: 14.1% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 of the valley. While you won’t find obnoxious acidity despite the officially high reading, the wine does have Davis Family 2009 Soul Patch Pinot Noir Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (An- cool-climate notes of mushrooms, pine needles and 92 (Russian River Valley). This is delicious in 95 derson Valley). For full review see page 4. cola, in addition to classic fruit flavors of raspberries and raspberry and cherry jam and cola flavors, with a mush- abv: 15.1% Price: $60 cherries. It’s very fine, dry and complex; enjoy now or room and grilled hamburger note that adds to its ap- cellar for 6–8 years. —S.H. peal. Dry and crisp, it could develop complexity over Davis Family 2009 Horshehoe Bend abv: 13.5% Price: $48 the years, but there’s no reason not to give it a decanting 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- and enjoy it now. —S.H. ley). The winery’s ’08 bottling of this Pinot was very Furthermore 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pi- abv: 14.1% Price: $45 good, but this is considerably better. It’s rich in red cher- 93 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A fine ries and ripe persimmons, with complex notes of grilled evocation of this esteemed vineyard, this shows the typi- Freeman 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River beef, cola and sautéed wild mushrooms, and has a long, cal power and extracted fruit in the form of pure rasp- 92 Valley). A beautiful Pinot to drink now, this is berry and cherry essence. It’s all packed into a firm tex- elegant and supple, with crisp acidity and a delightfully light texture. However, there’s nothing light about the

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 flavors, which suggest wild forest berry, softened cola, Kynsi 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot es. Dry and silky, it’s a classy Pinot Noir for drinking mushroom, dried pine and spice, enhanced with a sub- 91 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made in the over the next several years. —S.H. tle jacket of sandalwood. —S.H. Kynsi style, this is direct and delicious, made for drink- abv: 14.3% Price: $44 abv: 14.2% Price: $44 ing now. The wild raspberry and cherry flavors have a brightness and acidity that make them savory. —S.H. Belle Glos 2010 Las Alturas Vineyard Pi- Freeman 2010 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir abv: 13.7% Price: $39 90 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This 92 (Russian River Valley). Delicious and spicy, bottling has varied over the vintages, but 2010 has pro- this has notes of cherry pie filling, cola, dried forest herb Kynsi 2009 Stone Corral Vineyard Estate duced a softly lush, rich Pinot for drinking now. It’s as and leaf, with a touch of sweet, smoky, vanilla-tinged 91 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is absolute- tasty as a dessert confection, with flavors of raspberry oak. It’s a bit on the brawny side, but then, these Keefer ly delicious, with raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors jam, buttercream and cinnamon toast, balanced with Ranch Pinots always start out that way. Don’t drink it that go on and on. Great Central Coast acidity provides acidity. For all the richness, it finishes properly dry. now because it’s just too hefty; give it six years in a prop- needed tartness to balance the richness. It’s a beauti- —S.H. er cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ful, ripe, flashy and sophisticated Pinot Noir, showing abv: 14.6% Price: $44 abv: 14.2% Price: $48 the early drinkability and freshness of the Edna Valley. —S.H. Belle Glos 2010 Taylor Lane Vineyard Pi- Lucie 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- abv: 13.9% Price: $48 90 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Like the winery’s 92 ley). Lots of ripe, cheerful flavors of raspberry other 2010 Pinots, this one’s seems sweet and jammy in and cherry jam and cola are found in this vibrant wine. MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vine- raspberries, cherries and cola, with lots of caramelized It shows oak, too, in the form of sweet buttered cinna- 91 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full new-oak tones. It definitely appeals for its opulence, but mon toast. The mouthfeel is pure Pinot: silky, velvety review see page 8. would benefit from greater subtlety. Drink now. —S.H. and delicate. Delicious for drinking now with every- abv: 14.9% Price: $55 abv: 14.3% Price: $44 thing from grilled steak to ahi tuna. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Pali 2010 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Black Kite 2009 Kite’s Rest Pinot Noir 91 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very delicious and sa- 90 (Anderson Valley). Right out of the bottle, MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot vory if a little hot in alcohol, this has flavors of raspberry it’s a bit clumsy, but airing quickly lets it mellow, so give 92 Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see and cherry jam, buttery pie crust and vanilla that are it some time in a decanter. Delicious in cherry, cola, ba- page 6. flecked with red pepper flakes. It’s not an ager, but it con, cinnamon toast and other classic cool-climate Pi- abv: 14.5% Price: $49 is an elegant, flashy wine for pairing with tuna, lamb or not flavors, it shows a racy acidity that makes it vibrant. steak. —S.H. —S.H. Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.9% Price: $54 abv: 14.8% Price: $42 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 7. Stemmler 2009 Ferguson Block Pinot Black Kite 2009 Stony Terrace Pinot Noir abv: 14.3% Price: $39 91 Noir (Carneros). Strong in fruit, this is a high 90 (Anderson Valley). Tasted in May of 2012, octane Pinot that floods the mouth with ripe flavors of this shows an immaturity, where all the parts haven’t yet Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita cherry and blackberry Life Saver candy, Dr. Pepper and come together. It has a big, rich black-cherry flavor, with 92 Hills). For full review see page 7. sweetly toasted cedar. It has an elegant structure and a elaborate smoky oak, brisk acidity, firm tannins and heat abv: 15.2% Price: $60 silky mouthfeel that make it especially attractive. This from the alcohol all vying for dominance. Needs time; should develop complexity over the next 6–8 years. cellar it until 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Acacia 2010 Roberts Road Vineyard Pi- —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $52 91 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). As delicious as abv: 14.4% Price: $44 Pinot Noir gets, this has fireworks of raspberries, cher- Calera 2009 Jensen Pinot Noir (Mt. Har- ries and cola, and a sweet, mushroom-like essence of Stemmler 2009 Nugent Vineyard Pinot 90 lan). In its youth, this tastes rich and candied, earth. Then the depth kicks in. It’s not a big, tannic 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). This still im- like a cherry, vanilla and buttercream pastry. It’s deli- wine, but rather soft, with enormous charm and imme- mature Pinot has tobacco-infused cherry, cola and cious, savory and fun, a very easy wine to drink with a diate appeal. Drink now–2016. —S.H. pomegranate flavors that are liberally oaked and spiced. great steak or chop. With its delicate texture, it should abv: 14.9% Price: $65 It’s O.K. to drink immediately if you like freshness and probably last quite a few years, without necessarily gain- vibrancy, but aging it for six years or even longer could ing in complexity. —S.H. Drew 2010 Telfryn & Calder Pinot Noir reward. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $73 91 (Anderson Valley). Spice marks this dry, del- abv: 14.4% Price: $42 icate offering, with notes of white pepper, cinnamon Cuvaison 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). and nutmeg. But it’s also richly fruity in wild cherries Topel 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Mon- 90 One of Cuvaison’s best basic Pinots in years, this and raspberries. In recent years, Drew has been pro- 91 terey). Dry and elegant, this is not a block­ is charming with its dry, crisp structure, silky elegance ducing remarkably complex and ageworthy Pinots, and buster. It doesn’t grab you by the collar and shake you and fine flavors of raspberries, cherries and toasty oak. this lovely wine, which is not a single-vineyard bottling, with its power. Instead, it flatters with finesse. Crisp While not an ager, it’s a beautiful wine to pair with tuna, shows the winery’s continued mastery. It’s a particular acidity and a silky texture house subtle cherry-skin, cola salmon, lamb or steak. —S.H. success given the enormous challenges of the 2010 vin- and spice flavors. It’s a great companion for food that abv: 13.5% Price: $35 tage. Drink now–2018. —S.H. will complement it, not overwhelm it. Drink now–2015. abv: 13.8% Price: $38 —S.H. Furthermore 2009 Amber Ridge Vineyard abv: 14.2% Price: $40 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and Furthermore 2009 La Encantada Vine- exceptionally rich, this has a fleshiness that suggests it 91 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is TR Elliott 2009 Burgonet Pinot Noir (Rus- could use some time in the cellar. It’s strongly ripe in Furthermore’s fruitiest, most accessible ’09 Pinot Noir. 91 sian River Valley). Right up there with the wild raspberries and cherries, with a spicy, minty pine If you love fruit, you’ll savor the endless flavors of rasp- rich ’08, Elliott’s 2009 offers plenty of serious tasting note that’s attractive. Mouthwatering acidity suggests berries, cherries and persimmons that are brightened pleasure. It’s rich and ripe in raspberries and cherries, this can use 4–6 years of aging, but it can also be con- with a squeeze of zesty, lime-like acidity and enriched with complex notes of mushrooms, cola, herbs and spic- sumed now. —S.H. with the smoky creaminess of oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.1% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 61 Kynsi 2009 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). The enriched with smoky oak. It seems best now and over It finishes with the sweetness of toasted oak. While it’s 90 translucency, acidity and laserlike purity of red the next few years. —S.H. not particularly complex, it does offer plenty of varietal berry fruit make this Pinot Noir uniquely Edna Valley. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 pleasure. Drink now. —S.H. It’s as delicate as silk, yet packs a real flavor and spice abv: 14.9% Price: $40 punch. Very finely crafted, it’s a fine, dry wine to drink Stemmler 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). now. —S.H. 89 With cherry Life Saver candy flavors and lots of Acacia 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is abv: 14.3% Price: $32 zingy acidity, this has a sweet and sour taste that makes it 87 a soft, rich Pinot Noir, bursting in cherry pie and savory. It’s delicately structured and silky in the mouth, cola flavors. It has a nice edge of acidity, and it finishes MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir and it will be good over the next six years or so. —S.H. dry and exotically spicy. A textbook Carneros wine, it’s 90 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.4% Price: $42 meant to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $49 abv: 14.4% Price: $28 Corkscrew 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot 88 Coast). This is not a superrich wine, but it’s Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Pinot 90 Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see ele­gant, fresh, vibrant and clean in acidity. It has fla- 87 Noir (Carneros). Delicious, but kind of heavy page 9. vors of oak-inspired cherry, Canadian bacon and spice. for a Pinot Noir. It has rich, heady flavors of cherry and abv: 14.9% Price: $49 Drink now. —S.H. blackberry jam, touched with sweet, smoky oak, and a abv: 14.5% Price: $44 spicy finish. —S.H. Saxon Brown 2009 Parmelee-Hill Vine- abv: 14.3% Price: $45 90 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This Handley 2009 Pinot Noir (Mendocino small-production single-vineyard Pinot Noir is dry, ele- 88 County). This is a good vintage for Handley’s Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Barrel gant and may be deceptively simple in its youth. It feels Mendocino blend, a mishmash from various vineyards 87 Selection Pinot Noir (Carneros). This has delicate now, almost fragile, with the suggestion of bare- throughout the county. The wine has structure and lots of fine, upfront cherry, cola, mocha and oak fla- ly ripe cherries and cola that’s been left out overnight bright acidity, with its intensity tucked between its lay- vors in this Pinot. It’s a little on the soft side, lacking so it loses its spritz. It’s a wine of nuance, not power, ers. This can likely age. —V.B. the structure for aging. But it’s a pretty wine to drink and could easily develop dramatically over the next six abv: 14.2% Price: $25 now. —S.H. years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Jim Ball 2009 Boonville Pinot Noir (An- 88 derson Valley). As rich, ripe and flashy as any Acacia 2010 Winery Lake Vineyard Pinot Belle Glos 2010 Clark & Telephone Vine- Pinot Noir out there. It floods the mouth with jammy 87 Noir (Carneros). This pours unusually dark 89 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Very raspberries and cherries, with smoky oak sweetness like for a Pinot Noir and tastes heavy, like a Grenache. It rich and flamboyant, this may even be a little over the pie crust, sprinkled with cinnamon and brown sugar. actually tastes pretty flashy, with deep, delicious black- top. It shows a tremendous essence of raspberries and Drink soon. —S.H. cherry and cola flavors, but it’s a little too full bodied cherries that have been folded into mascarpone cream abv: 14.5% Price: $50 for the variety, lacking delicacy and subtlety. Drink now. and dusted with cinnamon and brown sugar. It’s deli- —S.H. cious, seemingly sweet and dramatic, but somewhat ob- Pali 2010 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.4% Price: $32 vious in its appeal. Even the winemaker calls it “Christ- 88 (Sta. Rita Hills). If you’re sensitive to high al- mas in the mouth.” Drink now. —S.H. cohol in Pinot Noir, this might not be for you. If you’re Drew 2010 Valenti Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.3% Price: $44 not, you’ll probably find the richness impressive. Al- 87 (Mendocino Ridge). Elaborately rich, this though it’s technically dry, it seems sweet and deli- has flavors suggestive of raspberries and cherries baked Black Kite 2009 River Turn Pinot Noir cious like a raspberry tart that’s sprinkled with cocoa into a pie, with the brown sugar and smoky pie crust 89 (Anderson Valley). It’s very acidic and also and brown sugar, with a buttery, smoky crust. Ready to sweetness of a pastry. That doesn’t mean the wine is a little hot in alcohol, and the combination of the two drink now. —S.H. sweet; it’s actually dry, but just tastes candied. —S.H. gives this a prickly taste and feeling. On the other hand, abv: 15.8% Price: $54 abv: 13.5% Price: $42 it’s enormously rich and delicious in raspberries, cher- ries and cola, with all kinds of spicy, mushroomy, oaky Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Hay- Jim Ball 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- nuances. —S.H. 88 field Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 87 ley). This is a solid Pinot, ripe in raspberries abv: 14.8% Price: $52 This tastes soft and simple now, although considering and cherries, with fine coastal acidity and firm tannins. the vineyard sourcing, that could be misleading. There’s It has a silky mouthfeel the way Pinot Noir should. Migration 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River a core of raspberry and cherry fruit, with intriguing for- —S.H. 89 Valley). A wildly delicious Pinot Noir, offer- est notes of dried pine needles and mushrooms. The abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ing flashy raspberry and cherry jam flavors. It’s soft and acidity is just right, neither bright nor too soft. The wine silky, just like you want a nice Pinot to be. Drink now for isn’t showing much now, but could be a sleeper. Try af- Jim Ball 2009 Les Pintades Pinot Noir its silky, youthful appeal. —S.H. ter 2015. —S.H. 87 (Anderson Valley). Everything about this abv: 14.5% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Pinot is upfront, but it’s beautiful. Softly appealing, with a silky mouthfeel, it offers flattering raspberry and cher- Sanford 2010 La Rinconada Pinot Noir Stephen Ross 2009 Stone Corral Vine- ry jam flavors, with smoky, sweet, buttery notes. The 89 (Sta. Rita Hills). This is curiously soft con- 88 yard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). There’s al- softness suggests that the wine is not ageable. —S.H. sidering the cool vintage. Still, it’s delicious in rasp- ways lots of acidity in Pinots from the Edna Valley, abv: 14% Price: $60 berry and cherry jam flavors, with a spiciness that lasts but this one has more than usual, courtesy of the cool through the long finish. It seems wise to drink it now. vintage. Although it’s tart, it’s entirely dry, and is load- Pali 2010 Rancho La Viña Vineyard Pinot —S.H. ed with raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s silky enough to 87 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Delicious and easy to abv: 14.5% Price: $60 drink now and over the next few years. —S.H. like, and even if it is a little one dimensional, it’s very abv: 13.5% Price: $52 pleasant. Dry, silky and crisp, it offers upfront raspberry, Sonnet 2009 Muns Vineyard Pinot Noir cola and new oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H. 89 (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s lots to like Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard Pi- abv: 15.7% Price: $54 in this interestingly textured Pinot Noir. It’s dry and 88 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Nicely silky and has a bite of tannins that longs to dig into a dry, silky and delicate in structure, this has pleasant Pali 2010 Windsor Oaks Vineyard Pinot grilled steak or lamb chop. The cherry fruit flavors are cherry and cola flavors that are brightened by acidity. 87 Noir (Russian River Valley). A gentle, easy

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 to drink Pinot, with pleasantly complex flavors of rasp- J. Wilkes 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria giving it a tingly scour. While it’s silky and dry, the cherry berry and cherry pie filling and new oak. The alcohol is 86 Valley). Notes of crushed spices accent the fruit is a little slender. —S.H. high, making for a burn that might offend Pinot purists. black cherry and plum flavors of this Pinot, making it abv: 13.5% Price: $18 But most fans will appreciate its sheer deliciousness. savory. It’s a dry wine, crisp in coastal acidity and a lit- Drink now. —S.H. tle rough in texture. Not going anywhere, so drink up. Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). What abv: 15.3% Price: $50 —S.H. 85 this Pinot is not is ageable and dramatic, but abv: 14.5% Price: $24 it’s a good expression of the variety: silky and dry, with Riverbench 2010 Mesa Pinot Noir (Santa savory cherry-skin and spice flavors. —S.H. 87 Maria Valley). This is a full-bodied, sumptuous Lockwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Monterey abv: 13.8% Price: $17 Pinot Noir that’s filled with candied, pie-filling flavors 86 County). This is dry and silky, with enough of black cherries, licorice, mocha and spices. While it’s acidity to provide life to the modest cherry and cola Sonnet 2009 Tondre’s Grapefield Pinot a bit common in texture, it does provide plenty of plea- flavors. It’s pretty good for the price, because in Pinot 85 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Some un- sure. Drink now. —S.H. Noir, you get what you pay for. —S.H. ripe vegetal notes mar what is otherwise a fine, silky abv: 14.6% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Pinot Noir, with flavors of raspberry cream and cinna- mon spice. Give this lots of breathing before you drink Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Pali 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (So- it. —S.H. 87 ­Lucia Highlands). This is somewhat lean, 86 noma Coast). Made in a drink-me-now style, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 but its elegantly tailored in its brisk acidity and dry- this is a delicately balanced wine, rich in oak, with a ness. While the cherry and berry flavors are modest, wealth of raspberries and cherries. It’s soft, delicious Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vine- the wine’s austerity makes it versatile with an enormous and a little high in alcohol. —S.H. 85 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). range of foods. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $54 Tight, acidic and a little green, this lacks the generosity abv: 13.5% Price: $38 and opulence you expect of a Pinot Noir from this fa- Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Pinot mous vineyard. The cherry fruit is laced with mint and Wattle Creek 2010 Pinot Noir (Yorkville 86 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Soft and sweet in tobacco leaf notes. Drink now. —S.H. 87 Highlands). This is a thick, earthy Pinot that cherry cola and spice flavors, this displays Pinot’s lovely abv: 14.5% Price: $38 sparks thoughts of dark cherries and mushrooms among silkiness. It’s a nice wine, yet lacks that extra complexity layers of cola, spice and bacon atop toast. —V.B. and nuance you want in the variety. Drink now. —S.H. Stomping Girl 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian abv: 14.3% Price: $30 abv: 14.6% Price: $28 85 River Valley). Dry and tart in sour cherry can- dy and cola flavors, this Pinot has hints of mint and to- Wente 2009 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir (Ar- San Simeon 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey). bacco that suggest the grapes weren’t completely ripe. 87 royo Seco). Dry and elegant, with the silky 86 A simple but likeable Pinot Noir, this is light- Drink now. —S.H. texture and cherry flavors you want in a good bottle. bodied, dry and clean, with brisk, mouthwatering acidity. abv: 14.4% Price: $36 Yes, it’s a little light in body and intensity, but the price The flavors suggest cherry and raspberry Life Savers, is pretty good for a Pinot with this much varietal plea- with a hit of mint tea. Ready to drink now. —S.H. Villa Mt. Eden 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma sure. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 85 Coast). Although it’s not especially rich, it abv: 14.5% Price: $25 does offer basic Pinot Noir characteristics, with a silky Sanford 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). mouthfeel framing sour cherry-candy flavors that are Annabella 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 86 This has nowhere near the complexity of San- brightened with acidity. —S.H. 86 Coast). This isn’t the most powerful, impres- ford’s single-vineyard bottlings. It seems pricy for what abv: 14.5% Price: $20 sive Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, but it has a lot you get, which is a basic Pinot that’s dry and silky, with going for it. It’s bone dry, crisply acidic and elegant on pleasant cherry candy and cola flavors. —S.H. Drew 2010 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yor- the palate, with a flavor of sour cherry candy that’s sa- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 84 kville Highlands). There’s a Porty overripe- vory and clean. Drink now. —S.H. ness all through this wine, like concentrated raisins and abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian prunes. Although it’s basically dry, it has a raisiny sweet- 86 River Valley). This is a simple but delicious ness, especially toward the finish. —S.H. Bridlewood 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey Pinot Noir. It has candied cherry flavors that are sweet abv: 14.5% Price: $42 86 County). This is a sound Pinot Noir, rich in and sour, with lots of toasty, vanilla-scented oak. Drink raspberry jam, toast and vanilla flavors, with lots of zingy up. —S.H. Kirkland Signature 2009 Pinot Noir coastal acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 84 (Carneros). Simple, dry and one dimensional, abv: 14.2% Price: $20 this has cola and cherry jam flavors, and a silky, delicate Stomping Girl 2010 Unhinged Pinot Noir texture. —S.H. Girasole Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir 86 (Sonoma County). Dry, spicy and elegantly abv: 13.9% Price: $10 86 (Mendocino). There aren’t too many Cali- structured, this is a little rugged around the edges in fornia Pinots lying around at $16. A Pinot made from texture, but the black raspberry and cola flavors are Sean Minor 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). organic grapes, this has a strawberry note in the fore- savory. —S.H. 84 Simple and agreeable, this can be paired with ground, followed by a peppery, spicy undertone. With abv: 14.1% Price: $28 a burger or beef taco. It’s dry and clean, with pleasant its weight and depth on the finish, it’ll hold up to a range cherry and cola flavors. —S.H. of meals. —V.B. Baldacci 2010 Elizabeth Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 85 (Carneros). Cabernet specialist Baldacci tries their hand at Pinot Noir, and what do you know? It’s a Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Central J. Wilkes 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Cabernet-esque Pinot, which means its heavy and full 84 Coast). Dry and acidic, this has flavors of green 86 Valley). A good Pinot, this is perfectly accept- bodied. There’s plenty of savory blackberry essence, mint and sour cherry candy. Not likely to improve with able for everyday purposes. Maybe it’s a little pricy, but but the challenge is to bring grace and lightness to this age, but give it an hour in the decanter to let it soften. you get a dry, tart wine, with cherry, cola and mushroom variety. —S.H. —S.H. flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Cline 2010 Cool Climate Pinot Noir (So- Walt 2010 Hein Family Vineyard Pinot 85 noma Coast). Acidity dominates this Pinot, 84 Noir (Anderson Valley). The first noticeable

WineMag.com | 63 aspect is that it seems to have no structure. The cher- Calcareous 2009 Grenache (Paso Ro- find lots to like here. It’s soft, dryish and rich in black ry, cola and pomegranate flavors have been elaborately 82 bles). This is a harsh, sweet wine whose bal- cherry, mocha, grilled meat and black pepper flavors. oaked, but there’s nothing for the mouth to grip onto. ance and mouthfeel are slightly off. It has ripe, Gren­ Oak adds just the right touch of sweet vanilla and toast. —S.H. ache-like flavors of cherry pie filling. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 15.2% Price: $36 abv: 15% Price: $42

Chime 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coun- 10 Knots 2009 Moonraker Grenache Carr 2009 Morehouse Vineyard Syrah 83 ty). A light style of Pinot Noir, this is dry and 81 (Paso Robles). Hot in alcohol, simple in ev- 90 (Santa Ynez Valley). This Syrah is consider- racy. It offers good persimmon and cola flavors, and is erything else, this Grenache has thin, overripe pruny ably lighter in body than you’d expect for a variety that’s very spicy. A trace of green is distracting. —S.H. flavors. —S.H. often heavy and full bodied. It has the silkiness of a Pi- abv: 13.9% Price: $19 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 not Noir, and it’s dry and complex in wild berry, leather, black pepper and cedar flavors. It shows lots of elegance Bogle 2010 Pinot Noir (California). A small throughout, and could even pick up bottle notes over 82 Pinot Noir, this is dry and vegetal, with modest SYRAH/SHIRAZ the next six years. —S.H. cherry flavors. —S.H. Montagna 2009 Triangle Syrah (Napa Val- abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 ley). Made in a rich, ripe style that perhaps fa- 94 Four Cairn 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). The vors power over elegance, this is delicious from start to Decoy 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). last few vintages of this wine have been variable. finish. It’s a big, intense wine, massive in blackberry and 89 Dry and delicately structured, with sour cherry This one plays it safe, going right down the middle in 82 mocha flavors, with a bacon meatiness that’s part Syrah, Life Saver flavors. There’s a disagreeably green, unripe delivering blackberry, peppered steak and new oak fla- part smoky oak. While it’s a little obvious in its appeals, streak that is distracting. —S.H. vors. It’s a little on the soft side, suggesting that it’s ready it does show Syrah at its flashy Napa best. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $22 to drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $60 abv: 14.7% Price: $38 Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). La Sirena 2007 Barrett Vineyard Syrah Not much going on in this dry, acidic Pinot Noir. Drew 2010 Perli Vineyard Syrah (Men- 82 (Calistoga). This Syrah tries to strike a bal- The cherry fruit is thin, allowing the alcohol to show 93 docino Ridge). Made from low-yielding ance between rich opulence and controlled elegance, 88 through. —S.H. vines, this is an absolutely dry Syrah—acidic and tannic. and it largely succeeds. It’s has exquisite tannins and abv: 13.8% Price: $15 It doesn’t show much richness, bearing black pepper, fine acidity, finishing bone dry. The flavors are complex, iodine and charred beef flavors, with a deep inner core immediately suggesting ripe blackberries, with notes of Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Pinot Noir of wild blackberries. It’s complex rather than opulent— beef tartare, grilled wild mushrooms splashed with tam- (Santa Cruz Mountains). Soft and simple, a wine to experience through the intellect, not just the 82 ari, black pepper and minerals. You can draw analogies this has overripe prune-jam flavors. It tastes baked and senses. —S.H. to the northern Rhône if you want. Will it age? Hard to dessicated by the heat. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 14.6% Price: $48 say, but it’s a great wine now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $75 Corkscrew 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Estate Re- Marked by dryness, brisk tannins and tart acid- Super Sonoman 2008 Syrah (Sonoma 87 serve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). ity, this Syrah’s saving grace are rich flavors of black­ 82 County). This is delicious, right up there with This is too ripe, with a disagreeable pruny taste. The 93 berries, teriyaki beef and Baker’s chocolate. Your best a great Cabernet. First of all, there’s the smoothly tannic wine is dry and full bodied, but is almost like a minor bet is to drink it soon. —S.H. and velvety mouthfeel. Then there’s the flavors that are Port. The official alcohol reading is 14.8% by volume, abv: 13.1% Price: $35 but it tastes higher and hotter than that. —S.H. wildly attractive in blackberries, black licorice, crispy bacon and something purple and flowery, like violets. abv: 14.8% Price: $48 Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Syrah (Paso The grapes comes from a vineyard in the Mayacamas Robles). Niner has been nothing if not consis- range that only qualifies for the county appellation. It’s 87 Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pi- tent with this Syrah for years. The 2008 tastes as fresh expensive, yes, but it tastes expensive. —S.H. 81 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Green, un- as the day it was bottled. It’s rich and spicy in flavors of abv: 15% Price: $55 ripe vegetal flavors mark this Pinot Noir. It does have blackberry, roasted meat and black pepper. It’s a little some decent raspberry and cherry flavors, but turns country in its rustic texture and a little city in its charms. a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard Syr- sour on the finish. —S.H. Drink now with beef stew, tamales, tacos or barbecued ah (Santa Barbara County). This is made in abv: 14.9% Price: $48 92 ribs. —S.H. a ripe, high-alcohol style, which gives it a little burn- abv: 14.4% Price: $25 ing sensation, like Cognac. The flavors certainly are delicious, exploding with blackberries, blueberries, dark GRENACHE San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Paso Robles). chocolate and roasted oak. The tannin-acid structure is This Syrah is bone dry, tannic and simple. The a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard intricate and smooth. —S.H. 84 blackberry jam and pepper flavors are tasty, but unable 88 Gren­ache (Santa Barbara County). This abv: 15% Price: $35 has notes of raspberries, cherries and whipped cream. to rise above the astringency. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 It’s addictively drinkable, showing none of the prob- Vagabond 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). A lems Grenache so often encounters. Enjoy it now for its nice interpretation of Syrah, this shows fine 91 San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Monterey). fresh, irrepressible appeal. —S.H. Napa elegance and structure. Dry and complex, this There’s too much acidity in this Syrah. It cuts abv: 15.6% Price: $30 100% Syrah has flavors of ripe, crushed blackberry fruit, 84 across the blackberry flavors like a hot knife. —S.H. raw beef, iron and black pepper, with a touch of smoky abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Austin Hope 2010 Grenache (Paso Ro- oak. Try now with beef tartare or carpaccio for some- bles). This polished wine is rich, dry and pretty 88 thing different. —S.H. Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Shiraz (Califor- much as complex as Grenache manages to get in Cali- abv: 14.8% Price: $60 fornia. With the weight of a silky Pinot Noir, it has pleas- 81 nia). This is thin and uninspiring, but it’s dry, with watery berry and spice flavors. —S.H. ant cherry, teriyaki beef and white pepper flavors, with a Austin Hope 2010 Hope Family Vineyard abv: 13% Price: $8 touch of overripe raisin on the finish. —S.H. 90 Syrah (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives this abv: 15% Price: $42 wine a slight burn, but if that doesn’t bother you, you’ll

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Paredon 2007 Syrah (Santa Barbara Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Petite Sirah ed in sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, it’s basically all 81 County). This Syrah is overripe. It has a taste 80 (California). This doesn’t taste quite ripe, with about jam. It’s a delicious wine, a little on the rustic of raisins and prunes­—a baked, Porty quality—like the its green, stemmy flavors, but it’s sugary sweet in cherry side, but appealing. The sweetness, tannins and acidity grapes had been grilled before being made into wine. Life Saver candy. —S.H. should allow this to pair well with Mexican food. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $8 abv: 15% Price: $28 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Miro 2010 Piccetti Vineyard Zinfandel ZINFANDEL 87 (Dry Creek Valley). With its tangy acidity, touches of green peppercorns and edgy tannins, this PETITE SIRAH Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Old Vine Zin- is a rustic wine. Fortunately, it has a lot of blackberry Girard 2010 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). fandel (Dry Creek Valley). This Zinfandel, 91 and dark chocolate flavors, with that distinctive briary Girard’s recent Petite Sirahs have been great, made using grapes from vines the winery says average 92 character of Dry Creek Zins. Drink now with roasted or really defining a Napa approach to the variety, and their 90 years of age, is pretty and polished. It’s surprisingly grilled meats or a vegetarian lasagna. —S.H. 2010 is right up there. It’s fairly high in alcohol, but light in body, with a silky, transparent mouthfeel, but abv: 14.9% Price: $28 there’s no trace of overripeness. You’ll find delicious the flavors are very complex. The usual wild berry and blackberry jam, black currant, grilled bacon and black tobacco flavors are apparent, but there are extra notes of Ancient Peaks 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro- pepper flavors that finish dry, spicy and above all, satis- espresso, cocoa, sweet herb, beef jerky and an extrava- bles). Here’s a rich, heady Zinfandel. It defines fying. Wonderful now, but it should easily negotiate the gant array of dusty Asian spices. —S.H. 86 the ripe, warm-climate style, with flavors of wild berry next 10 years in the bottle. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 jam, chocolate and spice that are wrapped into firm tan- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 nins. With a slightly sweet finish, it’s a nice Zin to drink V. Sattui 2009 Gilsson Vineyard Zinfandel with barbecue. —S.H. Keating 2009 Petite Sirah (Rockpile). (Russian River Valley). The winery has been 90 abv: 15% Price: $17 91 A big, strong, bold Petite Sirah, showing the on a roll the last few years with Zinfandels that not only variety’s usual power, dryness and tannins. The warm- are delicious, but show real class. With this bottling. V. The Federalist 2009 Visionary Zinfandel to-hot Rockpile appellation has ripened the wine to an Sattui captures the essence of ripe, heady Russian River (Dry Creek Valley). This is a soft, easy-drink- incredible density of blackberries and roasted meats, Zinfandel. Yes, the alcohol is high, but that’s Zinfandel 86 ing Zinfandel to enjoy now with everything from meat- yet the wine shows finesse despite its high alcohol. This for you, and without it you wouldn’t have that ripe, spicy balls and spaghetti to barbecue. It’s dry and silky, with will age for many years without developing additional berry-pie flavor that’s as soft as candy. Ready to drink pleasant raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. interest, so drink now with lusty barbecue or beef and now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 game stews. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $37 abv: 15.1% Price: $38 Crooked Path 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro- V. Sattui 2009 Ramazzotti Vineyard Zin- bles). You can call this wine country-style be- Varozza 2008 Petite Sirah (St. Helena). fandel (Dry Creek Valley). This lusty Zin 85 89 cause it’s a simple little Zin, but it has a certain charm. This is a strongly flavored, brawny, tannic and shows the briary, brambly character of Dry Creek Val- 89 Drink it with a nice pizza or meatball hoagie and enjoy heady wine. In other words, it’s classic Petite Sirah. The ley that always makes its Zins taste a little rustic, which the black raspberry and pepper flavors. —S.H. variety does particularly well in St. Helena, whose heat in no way detracts from its deliciousness. Dry and rich abv: 14.7% Price: $24 brings extra ripeness, but whose cool nights preserve in tannins, it has long, deep flavors of spices, perfectly acidity. Varozza’s ’08 has delicious flavors of black cur- ripe summer berries and an herbal bitterness suggestive XYZin 2010 10 Year Old Vines Zinfan- rant, plum, bacon and black pepper; it should last at of chamomile tea and wild nettles. A better pizza wine 85 del (California). Robust and lusty, spicy and least a decade. —S.H. cannot be imagined. —S.H. fruity, this has sweet berry and cola flavors. Drink it with abv: 14.7% Price: $50 abv: 15% Price: $36 savory fare, like pizza and barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $16 Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Petite Sirah Kunde 2009 Reserve Century Vines Zin- 87 (Paso Robles). There’s a tight, tannic coarse- 88 fandel (Sonoma Valley). This is not Kunde’s Decoy 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). ness to this Petite Sirah that makes it a little bitter and best Reserve, but its entirely satisfying. It floods the 84 Simple, fruity and sweet tasting, this has choc- difficult. On the other hand, it’s elegantly structured, mouth with lusty, spicy flavors of wild berry, currant, olate-covered raisin and blueberry jam flavors. —S.H. with a rich core of blackberries. This suggests ageability, cola and tobacco that are wrapped into intricately wo- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 it could improve in the bottle. —S.H. ven tannins. It finishes dry, but a little hot. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $24 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 Minassian-Young 2010 1000 Vines Zin- 84 fandel (Paso Robles). This seems sweet like Fleur 2009 Petite Sirah (North Coast). A Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zin- a Port. It tastes like raspberry and cherry jam, with lots 85 light style of Petite Sirah, this is softly drinkable 87 fandel (Russian River Valley). There are of heat from the alcohol. —S.H. now, offering a wealth of cherry, mocha and tobacco fla- massive flavors in this wine, and they’re delicious. It just abv: 14.8% Price: $25 vors and gentle tannins. —S.H. floods the mouth with milk chocolate, raspberry cream abv: 13.8% Price: $13 and cherry pie-filling flavors. The wine is pretty high Minassian-Young 2010 Estate Zinfandel in alcohol, but it’s a classically rich, ripe Sonoma Zin. 84 (Paso Robles). With very high alcohol, this is Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve —S.H. almost a dessert, Port-style wine. It’s soft and hot, with 82 Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). A thin abv: 15.9% Price: $42 sweet blackberry jam, milk chocolate and licorice fla- wine, this has light blackberry fruit, and while it’s nicely vors. —S.H. dry, the tannins are strong and sticky, and the alcohol Lake Sonoma 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek abv: 15.4% Price: $25 is very high, lending a slight burn to the palate. —S.H. 87 Valley). Dry and spicy, this has lots of upfront abv: 15.5% Price: $35 fruit in the form of wild raspberries and cherries, and Napa Cellars 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Val- rich tannins that make it great for pairing with grilled 84 ley). This is a vigorous Zinfandel, fruity and Pennywise 2010 Petite Sirah (California). steaks and chops. —S.H. soft, with berry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now with 82 A simple, rustic wine, this is fairly sweet and abv: 15% Price: $18 barbecue, burgers or beef burritos. —S.H. tannic, with blackberry and raisin flavors. A burger or abv: 14.7% Price: $18 sloppy Joe on a bun will be just fine as a pairing. —S.H. Miro 2010 Grist Vineyard Old Vines Zin- abv: 14% Price: $12 87 fandel (Dry Creek Valley). So concentrat-

WineMag.com | 65 Plungerhead 2010 Old Vine Zinfan- OTHER RED WINES be more concentrated, as it’s a little thin. The variety is 84 del (Dry Creek Valley). The mouthfeel has Petite Sirah. —S.H. sandpapery tannins and some green peppercorn notes Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai abv: 18.5% Price: $50 alongside riper flavors of blackberries and sweet cur- 92 Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). rants. It’s a rustic Zin to drink with barbecue. —S.H. For full review see page 6. Valley of the Moon 2007 Late Bottled Vin- abv: 14.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 86 tage Port (Sonoma County). Intense sweet- ness goes a long way toward making this dessert wine Twisted Sisters 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro- Kunde 2009 Limited Selection Petite Ver- delicious and satisfying. While it’s a bit lacking in fruity 84 bles). This is for you, if you like your Zins in a 92 dot (Sonoma Valley). A wonderful wine, one concentration, it does have good blackberry and milk sweet, soft style. It tastes like the filling from a black­ of the best Petite Verdots in California, although the chocolate flavors. —S.H. berry and cherry pie, dusted with exotic spices, like cin- truth is there aren’t all that many. It’s sturdy in tannins abv: 19% Price: $30/500 ml namon and black pepper. —S.H. and richly textured, with delicious blackberry flavors abv: 15.8% Price: $20 that are a little earthier and drier than Cabernet Sau- Lost Angel 2010 Moscato (California). vignon. —S.H. 85 Rides the wave of the Moscato craze in Amer- V. Sattui 2009 Mounts Vineyard Zinfandel abv: 14.4% Price: $35 ica, offering sweet, honeyed flavors of tropical fruits, 84 (Dry Creek Valley). There’s an unripe, green oranges and peaches. Zesty acidity provides just the edge to this Zinfandel that detracts from its appeal. Yet Peachy Canyon 2009 Ms. Behave Malbec tartness needed to balance all that richness. Best Buy. it has some good blackberry fruit, and it’s nicely dry and 88 (Paso Robles). Lots of flashy, upfront black- —S.H. tannic. Pair this with rich meats and cheeses to coax out berry and tamari-splashed grilled-beef flavor in this abv: 13.5% Price: $10 the sweetness. —S.H. tasty wine. Plenty of savory spices, too. It’s a little rug- abv: 15% Price: $35 ged in the mouth, with scoury tannins, but will play well Black Box 2010 Sweet Red Blend (Cali- with beef, any way you cook it. —S.H. 84 fornia). Black Box hops onto the popular sweet Zinopolis 2011 Zinfandel (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $32 red wine train with this blend. It is, as advertised, sweet, 83 This is nowhere near ripe, with chlorophyll, but not too much, giving a sugary edge to the blackber- white pepper and tobacco flavors. But the tannins are Wattle Creek 2009 Malbec (Alexander ries and cherries. Best Buy. —S.H. rich and fine, and the finish is dry. Drink with sausages 88 Valley). A dry, gritty red wine, lusty and tan- abv: 12.8% Price: $25/3 L to coax out the cherry flavor. —S.H. nic. The blackberry, cassis liqueur and smoky oak flavors abv: NA Price: $19 suggest pairing with charred steak. —S.H. Peju NV Delicias Zinfandel (Napa Valley). abv: 14.6% Price: $38 83 Despite lots of sugary sweetness and a fine burst Calcareous 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro- of acidity, this dessert-style wine is watery thin in flavor. 82 bles). This seems so sweet, it’s practically a Eberle 2010 Steinbeck Vineyard 48%, Ko- The raspberries and cherries taste diluted, leaving be- Port dessert wine. It’s soft and simple, with chocolate 87 kopelli Vineyard 43%, Partridge Vineyard hind the impression of hot, high alcohol. —S.H. and blackberry jam flavors. —S.H. 9% Barbera (Paso Robles). Four qualities distin- abv: 17.9% Price: $50/375 ml abv: 16.2% Price: $34 guish this Barbera. It’s bone dry, high in acidity, rigid- ly tannic and rich in cherries. By itself, it’s rustic and old-fashioned. But it’s the kind of wine the oldtimers OREGON SANGIOVESE drank with the cheese, meat, bread and sauce, and so Carr 2009 Vandale Vineyard Sangiovese should you. Like any respectable Barbera, it will age for CHARDONNAY decades, softening and sweetening without necessarily 87 (Santa Ynez Valley). This Sangiovese is Adelsheim 2010 Caitlin’s Reserve Char- gaining complexity. —S.H. marked by two things, extreme dryness and high acidity. donnay (Willamette Valley). Showing a lot abv: 13.3% Price: $28 91 It’s as light in the mouth as a Pinot Noir, with measured of barrel toast in both nose and mouth, this backs its flavors of red cherries, raisins and pepper, and a toasty buttered apple flavor with plenty of acidity. It’s like bit- jacket of new oak. You can drink it now, but it needs rich DESSERT WINES ing into a crisp-tasting slice of apple pie; delicious now, Italian fare, with lots of cheese, olive oil and fatty meats, or hold for another 4–6 years. —P.G. to tame those acids. —S.H. Robert Mondavi 2011 Moscato d’Oro abv: 13.8% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 (Napa Valley). This wine has plenty of hon- eyed sweetness. The apricot, orange and vanilla flavors Adelsheim 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette Eberle 2009 Hidden Valley Vineyard 51%, are just delicious. Crisp acidity provides the perfect 89 Valley). Fine balance is a hallmark for all 87 Wine Bush Vineyard 36%, Filipponi & zesty balance. —S.H. Adelsheim wines. This shows a mix of citrus and apple Thompson Vineyard 13% Sangiovese (Paso Ro- abv: 8% Price: $20/375 ml fruit, with the tartness of gooseberries as a nod to the bles). Eberle’s Sangioveses are always dry, acidic and cooler vintage. There is some pleasing complexity, with cherried. On their own, they’re tight, rustic little mon- Ballentine 2011 Betty’s Vineyard Malva- an emphasis on herbs and high-acid fruits. —P.G. sters. Drink them with appropriate fare, and suddenly 87 sia Bianca (St. Helena). Could almost be abv: 13.8% Price: $22 you’re in Tuscany. Get out your Italian cookbook and classified as a dry table wine, it’s so rich in acidity and find something with beef, fettucine, ragu and plenty of minerally on the finish. However, there’s just enough Lange 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette Val- cheese. —S.H. honey to call it off-dry and dessert style. Either way, it’s 88 ley). Fresh and spicy, this tart young Chard has abv: 15% Price: $24 a stylish wine, crisp and clean, with orange and pear fla- a streak of wintergreen mint. Aged in a mix of stainless vors. Great as a simple accompaniment to fresh fruit, steel and neutral French oak, it’s an excellent seafood Muscardini 2009 Monto Rosso Vineyard ricotta or mascarpone dishes. —S.H. wine. —P.G. 87 Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). You’ll want abv: 9.5% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $16 to drink this wine with beef, cheese and richly sauced foods, in order to balance out the dryness and acidity. Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve Lange 2010 Three Hills Cuvée Chardon- On its own, it’s austere, with cherry and sandalwood fla- 86 Vintage Port (Alexander Valley). This is 87 nay (Willamette Valley). This reserve-level vors. Rich, fatty fare will tame it and bring out the sweet quite a sweet wine, rich and heady in chocolate, black- Chardonnay does not outperform the winery’s regular fruit. —S.H. berry and blueberry jam and caramel flavors. It could bottling. Some light cinnamon spice adorns the clean, abv: 15.7% Price: $36 simple green-apple fruit. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $30

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 Witness Tree 2010 Estate Chardonnay Coeur de Terre 2011 Pinot Gris (McMin- citrus, melon and a hint of pineapple. Nicely woven to- 87 (Willamette Valley). Forward and lightly 88 nville). Tart and racy, this is a European-style, gether, it finishes with a citrus rind edge that’s softened toasty, this barrel-fermented Chard is a very nice sum- aromatic and elegant take on Pinot Gris. Whiffs of cel- with a suggestion of cream. —P.G. mertime sipping wine. Apple and stone fruits combine ery, apple and citrus rind lead into flavors of grapefruit abv: 13.3% Price: $30 in a gentle, forward, nicely balanced white wine. —P.G. and lychee. This is definitely a great apéritif wine to en- abv: 12.9% Price: $15 joy chilled. —P.G. Troon 2011 ’72 Vermentino (Applegate abv: 12.6% Price: $17 87 Valley). Troon lays claim to making the first A to Z 2011 Chardonnay (Oregon). Clean, Vermentino in Oregon, and it’s more than just a curios- 85 forward, simple apple and herb flavors com- King Estate 2011 Signature Pinot Gris ity. Though tawny and heading toward early oxidation, bine. This is a serviceable, all-purpose Chardonnay, that 88 (Oregon). This is a benchmark rendition of the wine is drinking well, with a pretty nose of gunflint, finishes just a bit sour. —P.G. Pinot Gris. The flavors are fruit driven, with lime, apple apple pie and white peach aromas. The low alcohol re- abv: 13% Price: $14 and pear notes combining on the smooth, relatively soft flects a wine of restraint and balance. —P.G. midpalate. This is a consistent wine, even with its pro- abv: 12% Price: $18 Amalie Robert 2010 Her Silhouette Char- duction level of 100,000 cases. —P.G. 85 donnay (Willamette Valley). Oregon Char- abv: 13% Price: $17 Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Blanc donnay in the low 12% alcohol range is well out of the 86 (Willamette Valley). Spicy, toasted coconut ordinary, but it reflects the vintage conditions in 2010. Lange 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- scents reflect barrel fermentation. The rather deep This is a wine for acid lovers, with very tart green-apple 88 ley). This is a brisk, minerally, quite fresh white straw color suggests a wine that is maturing quickly. fruit and a bit of spice. —P.G. wine. The cool vintage and low alcohol sets the flavors in Pleasant drinking, but don’t wait. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $22 the cucumber and apple corridor. Acids are firm but not abv: 12.9% Price: $15 sour; it’s a fine white wine for summer sipping. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $17 Left Coast Cellars 2010 Left Bank Pinot PINOT GRIS 84 Blanc (Willamette Valley). The first bottle A to Z 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). was off, with an unpleasant mousy aroma. A second Ponzi 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- Bright, tangy flavors of grapefruit and pear are mixed bottle fared a bit better, showing simple citrus and sour ley). Fragrant with floral notes, lemony fruit 87 92 with skin tannins and a hint of minerality. There’s a melon flavors. It finishes a bit thin. —P.G. and hints of apricot, this is a tangy, textural take on Pinot slightly herbal edge, but this wine delivers a lot of flavor abv: 13.7% Price: $18 Gris. Fermented in stainless steel and released young, it for the modest price. Best Buy. —P.G. retains a bright and stylish profile right through a linger- abv: 13% Price: $12 ing finish, with a touch of sweetness. Editors’ Choice. ROSÉ —P.G. Kings Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 The Spirit Of This is tart and steely, with a flavor of pear skin 86 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This rather than pear flesh, along with a green apple note 88 David Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Willa- pretty rosé has flavors of tart salmonberry and wild and a whiff of grapefruit. Sharply acidic, it’s a wine that mette Valley). Though low in alcohol even by raspberry, with plenty of citrusy acidity. Good balance 91 should pair well with spicy Asian cuisine. —P.G. David Hill standards, this excellent Pinot Gris does not throughout. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $13 lack fruit or flavor. Ripe and tasting of pretty pear and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 orange fruit, it shows evidence of some well-balanced RoxyAnn 2010 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley). residual sugar. Vivid acidity cuts through to a satisfying Gin-like botanical nuances in the nose intro- finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 86 PINOT NOIR duce a sharp, rather stiff and hard Pinot Gris. Grape- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 fruit and lemon rind flavors, along with plenty of acidity, Francis Tannahill 2009 The Hermit Pinot seem less ripe than the 14.3% alcohol would suggest. Noir (Dundee Hills). Beautifully structured, Seven Hills 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). A 91 —P.G. this very limited bottling offers complex, tightly wound, glorious, grapefruity, lusciously fresh Pinot Gris, 91 abv: 14.3% Price: $17 finely spun red fruit. The depth and detail suggest that this new vintage from Seven Hills is made for a sum- further cellaring will be well rewarded. Cellar Selec- mer afternoon. This has notes of citrus and melon, with tion. —P.G. highlights of mint and a hint of pepper, keeping it lively OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 13.9% Price: $48 and interesting all through the refreshing finish.Edi - Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 Bayliss-Bower tors’ Choice. —P.G. Lachini Vineyards 2009 Lachini Family Vineyard Pinot Noir Blanc (Yamhill-Carl- abv: 12.3% Price: $17 91 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). ton District). Stainless-steel fermented and the color 91 Much in the style of the outstanding 2008, this elegant, Lange 2011 Reserve Pinot Gris (Willa- of wheat, this still white wine is stylish and compelling. Burgundian-like Pinot Noir is a finessed wine, with mette Valley). Aged in neutral French oak, If you’ve wondered why anyone would bother to make 90 lovely details of rose petal and penetrating raspberry this Pinot Gris retains a lively, palate-cleansing acidity. a white Pinot Noir, this is the answer. It’s fragrant with fruit. There’s a pleasing transparency, keeping it light It’s consistent in style and flavor with the regular bot- sweet grass and melon, then the flavors follow along without losing focus or depth, and the finely rendered tling, but this has added depth and richness. Fruit fla- with grapefruit and kiwi. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tannins put the perfect period at the end of the sen- vors of sweet Macintosh apples give it a pretty finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tence. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 12.9% Price: $22 Ponzi 2011 Arneis (Willamette Valley). 89 Unique and pungent, with hints of diesel, green Rex Hill 2009 La Colina Pinot Noir Terrapin Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris (Willa- fruit and celery, this has some bite to it. Despite a green (Dundee Hills). There is a nice lift to the aro- mette Valley). This light and leesy wine has edge, it is precise and focused, with good grip and con- 91 90 mas, which focus on sweet black-cherry fruit. Streaks of excellent focus and refreshing minerality. Flavors of centration. —P.G. cola and brown sugar come into play in the mouth, but melon and kiwi highlight a complex but delicate wine, abv: 12.5% Price: $25 the rich fruit is the star of the show. —P.G. Best with lingering flavors and refreshing crispness. abv: 15.5% Price: $52 Buy. —P.G. Amalie Robert 2010 Our Muse Viognier (Willamette Valley). abv: 12% Price: $14 88 Silky, spicy and roundly William Hatcher 2008 Pinot Noir (Willa- fruity, this estate-grown Viognier brings fruit flavors of 91 mette Valley). Full bodied and complex, this

WineMag.com | 67 is a fleshy Pinot Noir with fruit flavors that run from toasty oak, which run through the penetrating finish. in 60% new French oak adds a note of vanilla as well. mulberry to spicy plum. Streaks of Dr. Pepper and some —P.G. —P.G. black pepper add finishing highlights. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $24 abv: 14.1% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Rex Hill 2009 Roserock Pinot Noir (Wil- Left Coast Cellars 2009 Right Bank Coeur de Terre 2009 Renelle’s Block Re- 88 lamette Valley). The fruit carries a pleasing 86 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This blend 90 serve Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Supple and sweetness onto the herb-flavored midpalate. Then ag- is comprised frion various single-vineyard plots of distinctive, this reserve-level wine offers flavors of blue- gressive flavors of stem and grape skin emerge, though Pommard clone Pinot Noir. Ripeness is an issue here. berry and black cherry, unusual curry and east Indian perhaps they’re too dominant. —P.G. There’s pepper, tomato leaf and bitter herb flavors, spice, and an earthy base. It was sourced from the vine- abv: 14.9% Price: $52 while the fruit feels thin and finishes quickly. —P.G. yard’s oldest block of estate fruit. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 abv: 13.9% Price: $58 Rex Hill 2009 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir 88 (Yamhill-Carlton District). Though the list- Pali 2010 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil- Ghost Hill Cellars 2010 Bayliss-Bower ed alcohol tops 15%, this remains a fruity and rather 86 lamette Valley). The light and fruity flavors of 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton Dis- simple wine, with dominating flavors of raspberry and young vines dominate here, tart and sharp in this cool trict). From a lighter year, this clean, delicate wine is cherry cola. As good as it is, this could use a bit more vintage. Raspberry and light herb open into a delicate, a model of elegance. Mixing strawberry and raspberry muscle. —P.G. short, somewhat attenuated wine. —P.G. fruit with a touch of watermelon, it carefully blends in a abv: 15.1% Price: $58 abv: 13.6% Price: $50 small amount of wine aged in new oak. An enticing hint of mocha is the result. —P.G. Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Wil- Rex Hill 2009 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.5% Price: $42 88 lamette Valley). Clean and straightforward, 86 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first, the this is textbook Oregon Pinot Noir. Streaks and nuances bright Bing cherry fruit carries suggestions of anise and Gresser Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir (Che- of herb, resin and earth are matched to flavors of wild mint, but in the mouth the wine does not deliver all that 90 halem Mountains). Nicely focused, with a berry. A year maturing in 20% new French oak lends the nose promises. The tannins turn aggressively bitter. core of wild strawberry and black cherry, this bears herb the finish a hint of toast. —P.G. This falls short of the outstanding 2008. —P.G. and pepper highlights common to Oregon Pinot. It has abv: 13.1% Price: $26 abv: 13.7% Price: $58 a nice mouthfeel and is balanced throughout. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Witness Tree 2010 Vintage Select Pinot Rex Hill 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wil- 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). Though it was giv- 86 lamette Valley). This has appealing scents of Lachini Vineyards 2008 Cuvée Giselle Pi- en twice as many new French oak barrels as the Estate cherry fruit at first, then it quickly hits a wall and stops 90 not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first bottling, this Vintage Select could be its twin. Solid and short. No amount of breathing time can make it budge. taste, this is a difficult wine to evaluate because of its balanced, it mixes berry, herb and earth components, —P.G. tight, compact and tannic structure. Pomegranate and making for a well-structured, no-frills wine. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 strawberry fruits slowly emerge from a shell of earthy abv: 13.1% Price: $40 tannins, suggesting that with a few more years in the Witness Tree 2010 Chainsaw Pinot Noir bottle this will evolve into a broader, more expressive Gresser Vineyard 2009 Vineyard Select 86 (Willamette Valley). This is the least expen- wine. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 87 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is sive of the Witness Tree Pinots, and the most widely abv: 13.8% Price: $65 quite soft and pretty, a charming wine with appealing available. Light and pretty, with apple and rasp­berry flavors of rose water, cherry and sandalwood. Not for fruit flavors, it’s well made, though slender in feel. Lange 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- keeping, but most enjoyable right now. —P.G. —P.G. 90 mette Valley). Lange’s reserve has a resonant, abv: 14.1% Price: $18 abv: 13.1% Price: $20 spicy depth that elevates it above the well-made regular bottling. Tight and showing medium concentration, it Rex Hill 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- A to Z 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This was a shows a herb accent, with earthy tannins framing the 87 ley). The nose features pleasing scents of toasty 85 cool, difficult vintage, and the wine reflects that tart cherry fruit. A hint of coconut marks the finish. barrel, but the palate turns a bit rough. Chewy, herbal with strong flavors of tomato juice and herb. A touch of —P.G. flavors compete with tart red fruits before heading into tart pomegranate comes through also. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $32 a tannic, earthy finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $35 Amalie Robert 2009 Wadenswil Clone Pi- Seven of Hearts 2010 Pinot Noir (Wil- 89 not Noir (Willamette Valley). A smooth en- William Hatcher 2009 Pinot Noir (Wil- 85 lamette Valley). Quite light, but pretty, with try leads into a pleasant midpalate with pretty mixed- 87 lamette Valley). Tart red fruit is swathed in delicate cherry and chocolate flavors. There is a bit of a fruit flavors of pomegranate, tart berry and Bing cherry. slightly green, tannic, earthy notes that shorten the fin- hole in the middle, but it’s a decent quaff in a difficult Light baking spices add further detail, with a streak of ish. Give it plenty of breathing time and it fleshes out a vintage. —P.G. cola and sassafras to wrap it up. —P.G. bit. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $48 Underwood Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Or- Lachini Vineyards 2010 S Pinot Noir Coeur de Terre 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir 85 egon). Pungent and assertive, this budget- 89 (Chehalem Mountains). Light as a cloud, 86 (McMinnville). Peppery and leaning to an priced Pinot mixes wild berry fruit with accents of pine this matches strawberry and raspberry fruit to a delicate herbal set of flavors, this compensates with details of needle and herb. —P.G. frame of juicy acids and fine-tuned tannins. Crisp and earth and bark, and a core of tart berry. This was a cool abv: 13% Price: $12 ethereal, it is nonetheless thoroughly satisfying, with vintage in Oregon, but the winemaking is balanced and both length and complexity. —P.G. clean. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $48 abv: 13.4% Price: $20 SYRAH Troon 2008 Reserve Syrah (Applegate Left Coast Cellars 2009 Cali’s Cuvée Pi- Lange 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- Valley). A whiff of leather introduces this tight, not Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a de- 88 88 ley). This well-made Pinot sports tart straw­ 86 interesting, southern Oregon Syrah. Black fruits, iron cent, midpriced Pinot, soft and round, with light straw- berry and raspberry fruit, focused and lightly spicy. In filings, and smooth tannins mark a wine made from the heart of the wine are accents of sandalwood and berry flavors and a streak of licorice. The 18 months

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 grapes that were carefully selected (just three rows of vines) and given special consideration by winemaker Herb Quady. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

RoxyAnn 2009 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Cas- 85 sis and black cherry aromas lead into similar, but somewhat light fruit flavors. The mouthfeel is soft, but the tannins a bit green and hard. It has not really be- come integrated. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

Del Rio 2010 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Scents 83 of toast and coffee reflect some time in a per- centage of new oak, but there is little else going on here. Where’s the fruit? —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

RED BLENDS Troon 2009 Old Vine Meritage (Applegate 88 Valley). This is a tannic blend of all five Bor- deaux grapes, with an earthy mix of cherry, herb and berry flavors. It’s elevated with pretty floral aromatics as well, and a hint of anise in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

RoxyAnn 2008 Claret (Rogue Valley). 86 Tannic to the point of stemmy, this hard and compact blend includes 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Chewy red fruits run into a tight, tough finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $26

Del Rio 2010 Claret (Rogue Valley). Rip- 83 ening the grapes seems to have been an issue here in 2010, at least as far as this Claret is concerned. This is a thin, green, tannic follow-up to the excellent 2009. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

TEMPRANILLO RoxyAnn 2009 Tempranillo (Rogue Val- 85 ley). Light and slightly spicy, this spent 15 months in one-third new French and American oak barrels, yet it comes across as a bit mild and one dimen- sional. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 83 (Rogue Valley). Hard and herbal, this has sour, barely-ripe fruit and chalky tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Val- 82 ley). Thin, green and tannic. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $28

WineMag.com | 69 SPIRITS cious sugared-orange peel and spicy cinnamon and gin- ger notes, this lovely triple sec is a top pick for a side- car—or any cocktail, for that matter. The warm, LUSCIOUS LIQUEURS & CORDIALS elegant, velvety feel belies its stance at 80 proof, on the high end for a liqueur. Think of it as an iron fist within iqueurs and cordials are a burgeoning— digestif Killepitsch from Germany, have a that velvet glove. Best Buy. and diverse—category. The one thing storied history dating back to the 1800s or abv: 40% Price: $19 Lthey all have in common is a spirits base earlier. Others, such as Dancing Pines, a new and added sweetener. line of liqueurs from Colorado, are shiny-new Echte Kroatzbeere Blackberry Liqueur But from there, the doors fling open to the market. 92 (Germany; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Rich and lovely, this wild-blackberry wide, encompassing fruity and floral, bitter Valuable as post-prandial sippers as well as liqueur is reminiscent of fresh fruit warmed in the sun. and herbal, rich and dessert-like, and many flavorful cocktail mixers, here are some picks A concentrated, nearly opaque plum hue, the earthy, variations within each of those categories. for best in class. ripe fruit flavor builds with repeated sips. Dash a bit Some of these, such as the fruity-herbal —Kara Newman into a bubbly drink like a Kir, or serve as a dessert pair- ing with dark chocolate. abv: 30% Price: $35 Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Fraises FRUIT & FLORAL (France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce, Luxardo Limoncello (Italy; Anchor Distill- 93 ing Company, San Francisco, CA). LIQUEURS CA). Heads up to bartenders fond of using jam in cock- 92 This tails: here’s a viable alternative. Made with wild straw- light limoncello has a candied-lemon aroma and flavor Briottet Crème de Mure (France; Anchor berries and black currants, this spirit boasts a nice true- and a zingy herbal note on the finish, similar to lemon- Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). 95 berry flavor that’s earthy and complex, with a faint cin- grass. Light feel. This light and nuanced blackberry liqueur is ideal for abv: 27% Price: $26 namon note on the finish. Almost Port-like, this berry adding color and flavor to cocktails. Garnet in hue, with elixir would be outstanding paired with dark chocolate. a berry-like aroma and flavor with a gentle clove note— Bottega Limoncino (Italy; Palm Bay Inter- abv: 20% Price: $25 this finishes well balanced between tart and sweet. 91 national, Port Washington, NY). For full re- abv: 18% Price: $33 Mathilde Poire (France; Deutsch Family view see page 10. abv: 30% Price: $24 Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Bal- The Bitter Truth Apricot Liqueur (Germa- 93 anced, light and delicate, this pale gold pear liqueur has ny; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New Mathilde Orange XO (France; Deutsch 95 a fresh, crisp aroma, melding fruit and white flowers. York, NY). Among the best of the fruit liqueurs, this Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). The fruit flavors are bolder on the palate, sweet but not 91 delicious spirit is sippable straight up, and would be a Made with Cognac, this deep-gold orange liqueur is overly so. While light enough to sip straight, this is also lovely accompaniment to shortbread or other desserts. higher proof than most, and comes across as a little hot. an appealing way to add fruity notes to cocktails made Rich scents of apples and stone fruits abound, with a Nevertheless, it’s delicious, with enticing honey, baking with white rum or gin, or mix it with sparkling wine. faint spicy aroma reminiscent of Cognac. Coats the pal- spice and flower notes. A pleasing note of bitter orange abv: 18% Price: $28 ate with true apricot flavor and a hint of baking spices. peel cuts the sweetness and refreshes the palate. This abv: 22% Price: $34 Merlet Crème de Fraise des Bois (France; would be particularly delightful mixed with brown spir- MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). its like brandy or whiskey. Hum Botanical Spirit (USA; American 93 abv: 40% Price: $28 Dessert-like and syrupy, this berry liqueur should be Still Life Collection, Ashland, VA). De- 94 considered for pouring over ice cream or using it to veloped by Chicago bartender Adam Seger, this rum- Merlet Crème de Peche (France; MHW/ glaze berries for a tart. Of course, with its deep cherry based liqueur has had a speedy ascent in the past couple Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Bright color and luscious strawberry-jam scent and bright fla- 91 of years as a must-have for mixologists. The deep garnet gold, with a rich, sticky ripe-peach aroma reminiscent vor, it’s a pleasing spirit for sipping, too. hue is derived from macerated hibiscus. Although it has of the juice in a can of peaches. The flavors evoke Sau- abv: 18% Price: $25 a warm, earthy floral-fruity base, the spice notes—gin- ternes and honey, with a surprisingly light finish. Great ger, cardamom, kaffir lime—get a little wild and take Senior Curacao (Curacao; Anchor Distill- addition to sparkling wine for a Bellini-style drink, or center stage. It can stand alone, but this liqueur is at its ing Company, San Francisco, CA). This mix with white rum for a light, peachy cocktail. best mixed into cocktails. 93 abv: 18% Price: $25 clear and bright orange liqueur features a perky can- abv: 35% Price: $40 died-orange flavor and aroma, with brisk lemon peel on Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack from Brooklyn, the finish. Light, clean and appealing for a broad range Briottet Crème de Cassis (France; An- Brooklyn, NY). For full review see page 10. of cocktails. 91 chor Distilling Company, San Francisco, abv: 15% Price: $28 93 abv: 31% Price: $26 CA). A deep, dark burgundy color, this black-currant Alberti Limoncello (Italy; Niche Import, liqueur is rich and thick, with jam-like grape and rai- The Bitter Truth Violette Liqueur (Germa- Cedar Knolls, NJ). Pale yellow and slightly sin flavors. ny; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New 90 abv: 20% Price: $33 93 cloudy, this limoncello has a mild lemon-juice scent and York, NY). The dense color is hypnotic: an impressive- interestingly complex flavors. Although candy-sweet ly deep, dark, inky violet blue. Luckily, the flavor is less Dancing Pines Cherry Tart (USA; Danc- at first, the liqueur evolves into an elongated, palate- intense. Instead, it’s sweet and light bodied, with a dis- ing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Made cleansing finish with lemongrass, white pepper and a 93 tinctive violet flavor that pulls back before it becomes with tart cherries and no artificial flavorings or color- faint touch of anise. Would be lovely frozen into sorbet too perfumy or overpowering, with a delicate, clean fin- ings, this ruddy spirit blends tart and sweet cherry and or poured over crushed or shaved ice. ish. Overall, an excellent pick for floral-tinged cocktails, cranberry flavors, and would be particularly outstanding abv: 30% Price: $20 like an aviation. mixed with Champagne or gin. The only missed step is abv: 22% Price: $48 that it’s not particularly aromatic—otherwise, this spirit Mathilde Framboise (France; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). would have scored even higher. Di Amore Gran Orange (Italy; Buffalo 90 abv: 25% Price: $36 A little of this concentrated, intensely fruity liqueur will 92 Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY). With its lus-

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 go a long way. Almost Port-like or jam-like, this syrupy Bellini Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family limoncello has a light yellow, cloudy appearance, and a spirit has a deep garnet hue and a dark berry flavor, 89 Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Despite brisk lemon-lime flavor with a clean finish and a hint of making it a fine choice for sweetening a dessert or cock- its thin, cloudy appearance and light citrus scent, this li- lemon zest. tail. Even with a significant amount of dilution, the fruit moncello delivers surprisingly big lemon sweetness and abv: 25% Price: $19 continues to ring out. zingy notes of ginger and lemongrass. abv: 18% Price: $28 abv: 30% Price: $18 Hiram Walker Caramel Apple (USA; Per- 88 nod USA, Purchase, NY). Those Mathilde Peche (France; Deutsch Fam- Merlet Crème de Framboise (France; with a sweet tooth will enjoy this bright golden liqueur 90 ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This 89 MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). as a sweetener for fall cocktails and hot drinks. Although pale-gold peach liqueur has a bright, sweet apple-peach This 100% natural liqueur has a fruity, earthy, deeply the aroma delivers a finely tuned apple and caramel scent and flavor, finishing with a breeze of white blos- concentrated dark-berry aroma and dark purple color scent, caramel dominates the flavor, lingering and coat- som. Medium bodied, fresh and sippable, this would be that’s nearly opaque. On the palate, the flavors evoke ing the palate. That said, the sweetness is well balanced. especially nice in a Bellini. blackberry compote and plums, and the spirit has a syr- abv: 15% Price: $10 abv: 18% Price: $28 upy feel. abv: 18% Price: $25 Kinky Liqueur (USA; Crosby Lake Spirits Merlet Crème de Cassis (France; MHW/ 88 Company, Saint Paul, MN). Cloudy carna- 90 Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Save this Midori (Mexico; Campari America, San tion pink, with a juicy, grapefruit-like aroma and citrus plush black-currant liqueur for adding bold flavor and 89 Francisco, CA). You may be surprised to flavor. Made with vodka, blood orange, mango and pas- color to Kir royales—it’s almost too thick for straight-up learn this liqueur is made in Mexico—not Japan. Still, sion fruit. Although this appears to be made to mix, the sipping. This deep plum-colored liquid is so viscous, it most will recognize that textured bottle with the bright modest alcohol level suggests this is intended as a ready- clings to the sides of the glass, and feels alarmingly like neon-green liquid inside. The fragrance is enticing, to-drink product. This has a distinctive curvy frosted swallowing liquefied jam. Yet, it’s a remarkably true ex- scented with honeydew, white flowers and fresh green bottle. pression of fruit: earthy, round and balanced between apple. The flavor is sweet, big and melony, with a clean, abv: 17% Price: $20 sweet and tart flavors. Add to gin for a bramble cocktail. lightly floral finish. Light bodied, perky and bright, this abv: 20% Price: $25 is meant for mixing. Mariposa Agave Nectar Liqueur (USA; abv: 20% Price: $25 88 Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY). Merlet Triple Citrus (France; MHW/Bed- New to the U.S. market, Mariposa (Spanish for but- 90 ford & Grove, Louisville, KY). London- Pages Maurin (France; Anchor Distilling terfly) is made with agave nectar, Tequila and vodka. It based mixologist Tony Conigliaro collaborated on this 89 Company, San Francisco, CA). Perhaps has a pale straw color and a honeyed agave scent with a 100%-natural orange liqueur, made from blood orange, you’ve seen the dark bottle with the green devil, and light, perfumed rose note. On the palate, it reads as very bitter orange and lemon. It’s certainly versatile, and wondered what on earth was inside. Answer: It’s a forti- sweet, like drinking thinned agave nectar with a splash would complement a wide range of cocktails, from mar- fied sweet white wine spiked with cherries and quinine. of Tequila and vanilla on the finish. With good mixing garitas to sidecars. The clear spirit has a sweet orange- All this makes for an enticing apéritif with a cherry-red potential, such as with lime and Tequila (or other spir- peel and lightly floral aroma, and a pure, clean orange hue. The flavors are subtle and earthy, alternating be- its), Mariposa has the potential for creating fascinating flavor, with just a bit of warmth on the finish to balance tween sweet and tart, with a modest—some might say new margarita hybrids. out the sweetness. angelic—alcohol level. abv: 30% Price: $25 abv: $40% Price: $30 abv: 16% Price: $39 Mathilde Cassis (France; Deutsch Fam- Luxardo Apricot (Italy; Anchor Distilling PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur (USA; Heav- 88 ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Dark 90 Company, San Francisco, CA). Delectable 89 en Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY). Made purple, nearly opaque, with a wine-like scent. Warm apricot flavor drizzled with sticky Sauternes and a dry with pomegranate juice, vodka and Tequila, this light- and rich, this black currant spirit coats the tongue and finish with baking spice and black tea make this a pleas- bodied, translucent ruby liqueur is bracingly tart, and palate with big, grape-berry flavors. It’s best lightened ing choice for a dessert pairing. Sadly, this dark amber reads closer to cranberry than pomegranate juice. This with bubbly, as in a Kir royale. liqueur has barely any aroma to match the complex fla- will stand up well to dilution, making it a good pick for abv: 16% Price: $28 vors, otherwise it would have scored higher. cocktail mixing. abv: 30% Price: $27 abv: 17% Price: $25 Merlet Crème de Poire (France: MHW/ 88 Bedford & Grove, Manhasset, NY). This Luxardo Cherry Liqueur (Italy; Anchor TY KU Liqueur (USA; Entertainment Fu- 100%-natural pear liqueur has a light, ripe pear scent 90 Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). 89 sion Group, New York, NY). First, you’ll and a sweet, syrupy flavor that evokes apple, pear and The deep, dark garnet hue hints at the earthy, subtle notice the tall, pyramid-like bottle filled with pale jade tropical fruit. cherry aroma and dark-berry flavors. This is warming liquid. Second, when lifting the bottle, you’ll notice it abv: 18% Price: $25 and medium bodied. lights up. Third, pour and you’ll notice the fresh, soft abv: 30% Price: $26 melon scent. The flavor reads tart at first, fading into a X-Rated Fusion Liqueur (Italy; Campari juicy, sweet finish, with a touch of mouthwatering acid- 88 America, San Francisco, CA). Dainty car- Pages Parfait Amour Crème de Violette ity. Light bodied and mixable, this is made with soju, as nation pink, and smells like a grapefruit-flavored ener- 90 (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San well as yuzu, honeydew and green tea. gy drink. The flavor is juicy and tart on the entry, but Francisco, CA). The vivid violet color telegraphs the abv: 20% Price: $25 finishes rather sweet, reminiscent of grapefruit-spiked aroma: floral and sweet, like violet pastilles, with a long lemonade. Made with French vodka mixed with blood finish. The violet flavor is clear and true, although it Cedilla Liqueur (Brazil; Leblon USA, orange, mango and passion fruit. Although this appears veers dangerously close to soapy. 88 Manhasset, NY). New to the U.S. market, to be made to mix, the modest alcohol level suggests this abv: 25% Price: $35 Cedilla is made by infusing cachaça with açai berries is intended as a ready-to-drink product. Distinctive tall grown in the Amazon region. Intense, plummy color frosted bottle. Santoni Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Fam- with a sweet grape-soda aroma and flavor balanced out abv: 17% Price: $25 90 ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This by a tartness on the finish and a faint cinnamon note. vibrant yellow spirit has a strong lemon aroma and It goes down easy straight up, but would also be good Intrigue Pink (France; Arcadia Imports, a sweet, big citrus flavor that finishes with a pleasing, mixed with sparkling wine or gin—or possibly cachaça. 87 Plainville, CT). Bright pale-pink colored, with cleansing pine note. It has a viscous feel. abv: 25% Price: $33 a strong grapefruit scent. The flavor is sweet, slightly abv: 30% Price: $21 ersatz, with touches of grapefruit and peach. Made with Cristiani Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Fam- 88 ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This

WineMag.com | 71 French vodka, peach and passion fruit, and produced by scent and a sweet, artificial flavor similar to an energy alcoholic twang, where a touch of sweetness would have Cognac maker Louis Royer. drink. been welcome to temper the bite. Drink well chilled. abv: 25% Price: $22 abv: 17% Price: $22 abv: 35% Price: $25

Luxardo Triplum (Italy; Anchor Distilling Schonauer Apfel Apple Liqueur (Ger­ 87 Company, San Francisco, CA). This orange 83 many; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls, OTHER LIQUEURS NJ). liqueur from Italy has a fleeting citrus scent but a big, Light gold in color with a juicy, true apple flavor. Dancing Pines Chai (USA; Dancing Pines sweet flavor, with a pronounced orange-peel note and a This apple would have scored higher were it Distillery, Loveland, CO). Tea is one of the pulse of alcohol on the finish. not for the sticky, plastic-like aroma. 96 hottest flavors in the mixology world now, and bartend- abv: 39% Price: $28 abv: 21% Price: $20 ers are going to fall in love with this complex, chai- inspired liqueur. Black-tea flavors meld with a vivid, Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Fram- spicy palette of orange peel, cinnamon and clove, with boises (France; 21st Century Spirits, WHISKEY-BASED 86 just a hint of sweetness and a mildly spicy finish. Commerce, CA). Made with “a harmonious blend of LIQUEURS abv: 30% Price: $36 Scottish and Burgundy raspberries,” this liqueur sports Southern Comfort (USA; Southern Com- a deep, vivid dark-cherry hue and a mouth-filling cher- Patrón XO Café Dark Cocoa (Mexico; The fort Company, Louisville, KY). This classic ry-berry preserves flavor. However, the spirit finishes 92 Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV). with a subdued, earthy note, and has a lighter feel than whiskey-based liqueur has a familiar mix of oak, cara- 94 mel and vanilla flavors. Since it’s only moderately sweet For full review see page 10. expected. abv: 30% Price: $25 abv: 20% Price: $25 (despite the candy-like aroma) and has a fair amount of alcohol, it’s a versatile mixer with a wide range of soft Chocolat Royal Liqueur by Marie Brizard Given Liqueur (France; Given Imports, drinks and juices. (France; Imperial Brands, Palm Beach New York, NY). Made with agave Tequila and abv: 35% Price: $17 93 86 Gardens, FL). From Bordeaux, this velvety-smooth lime juice, this bright buttercup-yellow liqueur has a chocolate liqueur is new to U.S. markets. It resembles sweet-tart flavor and a lingering lime note. Overall it is Irish Mist (Ireland; Campari America, San dark-chocolate syrup in appearance, aroma, flavor and light and crisp, though it would benefit from a bolder Francisco, CA). This dark amber liqueur 91 mouthfeel, and would be lovely in espresso-based cock- burst of flavor. It appears to be meant to drink as is, but is made with , honey and spices. Expect tails or poured over ice cream. warm honey and vanilla flavors, with a perky cinna- it would make a refreshing apéritif in a tall glass with abv: 17% Price: $28 soda and a fresh wedge of lime. mon note that winds into the finish. Creamy honey-like mouthfeel and syrupy consistency; excellent for mixing. abv: 17% Price: $35 Luxardo Amaretto (Italy; Anchor Distilling abv: 35% Price: $28 Company, San Francisco, CA). Look for a Gabriel Boudier Dijon Creme de Cassis 93 bold marzipan aroma and almond flavor with a baking- (France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce, Wild Turkey American Honey (USA; Cam- 85 spice finish and velvety feel. Use for dessert cocktails. CA). pari America, Lawrenceburg, KY). From One of the earthier black currant liqueurs, meld- 91 abv: 28% Price: $28 ing dark, plush berry with an oddly vegetal, spicy note the makers of Wild Turkey Bourbon, this lovely liqueur is honey-sweet at first sip, but it braces up with a whis- with hints of oregano and bell pepper. Opaque plum D’Aristi Xtabentun (Mexico; Anchor Dis- per of alcohol. As the sweetness fades away, it leaves color. tilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This behind pretty honeysuckle and vanilla notes on the long 92 abv: 20% Price: $25 exotic liqueur comes with a spicy story: supposedly it’s finish. Enjoy this on the rocks or mixed. named for Xtabay—a disgraced Mayan prostitute—and Paradiso Lemon Cream (Italy; Deutsch abv: 35.5% Price: $22 the aromatic flowers that eventually sprung from her Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). 85 grave, named xtabentun. The thick, pale yellow liqueur Creamy yellow appearance and mild lemon scent. In Southern Comfort Lime (USA; Southern is made with honey, anisette and rum, and has a warm, many ways, it’s reminiscent of lemon curd: thick and Comfort Company, Louisville, KY). This 90 funky honey-and-spice profile. It’s currently a darling creamy, with a sweet flavor. Light lemony finish, with an amber liqueur features a fresh lime scent with a hint among the mixology set, who are using it to flavor Te- herbal note. Made in Tuscany. of vanilla and acidic lime flavor on the palate, finishing quila and other spirits. abv: 17% Price: $21 bright and clean. The tart, mouthwatering citrus flavor abv: 30% Price: $26 is clearly meant for mixing with cola or ginger ale. Siegburg Apfel (Germany; Deutsch Fam- abv: 27.5% Price: $17 Fennellys Irish Cream (Ireland; Deutsch ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). 85 Look Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). for a light gold color and a ripe apple scent with a hint Southern Comfort Bold Black Cherry 92 This light brown Irish-whiskey-based liqueur is reminis- of resin. On the palate, this liqueur is sweet, with a hon- (USA; Southern Comfort Company, 88 cent of chocolate spiked with a hint of baking spice. It eyed apple essence. Light bodied. Louis­ville, KY). A new entry to the SoCo line, ex- boasts a rich and creamy feel, with enticing chocolaty abv: 21% Price: $17/1 L plicitly intended for mixing with cola. Despite the pro- nounced candy-like aroma—like a cherry Charms lolli- aromatics. abv: 17% Price: $14 The Bitter Truth SloeBerry Blue Gin (Ger- pop—the flavor is not as sweet or cherry-like as expect- many; Domaine Select Wine Estates, ed. Instead, it’s a burst of oak and alcohol on the palate, 85 Frangelico (Italy; Campari America, San New York, NY). A deep burgundy hue, with a fruity which moderates when mixed. Francisco, CA). Part of the classic liqueur and floral scent. On the palate, the gin is tart, with a abv: 35% Price: $17 91 canon, this rich, sweet hazelnut cordial is instantly faint rose note and a dry, tannic feel. recognizable. Whether mixed into coffee, whiskey or abv: 28% Price: $48 Mickey Finn Irish Apple Flavored Whis- key (The Netherlands; BABCO Imports, creamy cocktails, this light-gold liqueur is as addictively 87 sippable as ever. Intrigue Liqueur (France; Arcadia Im- Manhasset, NY). New to U.S. markets in spring/sum- abv: 20% Price: $20 84 ports, Plainville, CT). Made with French mer 2012, this light-gold liqueur is made with a blend of Irish and American mixed with natural apple vodka, Cognac and passion fruit, the most fun part of The Old Liquor Store Honey Liqueur flavor. Look for a bright green-apple scent, fresh, juicy this spirit is the artificial color: its lurid lime-green color (Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, sure attracts attention! Look for a mild kiwi and lime and tart, which is echoed on the palate, reading almost 91 White Plains, NY). Smooth and sippable, this bright like tart apple juice at first. The liqueur finishes with an gold liqueur has a sweet honey scent, with notes of

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 vanilla and tea. Look for a very sweet, creamy honey feel warns), espresso-like aroma, and sweetness on the pal- Nardini (Italy; Winebow, New and flavor, enriched by a touch of hazelnut. ate lead into a light coffee flavor. 94 York, NY). Mixologists will love this deep abv: 24% Price: $22 abv: 30% Price: $36 brown amaro for adding complex, sophisticated flavors to cocktails. Bold, warm dark-chocolate notes meld with Tuaca (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision Wine & Spirits, a minty, herbal, palate-cleansing finish, and a surpris- 91 KY). This vanilla-citrus liqueur is a good, com- 89 Secaucus, NJ). For full review see page 10. ingly but mellow sweetness tempers the forward bitter plex sweetener for cocktails made with brandy, whiskey abv: 24% Price: $25 notes. Lovely and light bodied. or other dark spirits. The amber liquid has a warm cara- abv: 31% Price: $50/1 L mel aroma. On the palate, orange is the dominant fla- Bottega Sambuca (Italy; Palm Bay Inter- vor, warmed up with a bit of vanilla on the boozy finish. 88 national, Port Washington, NY). For full re- Luxardo Bitter (Italy; Anchor Distilling When the temperature sensitive bottle is chilled, the view see page 11. 92 Company, San Francisco, CA). The bright, color of the design on the bottle changes from white abv: 40% Price: $24 vivid orange-red hue and Campari-like bitter scent and to bright blue. flavor make this a natural choice for Negronis, Ameri- abv: 35% Price: $22 Kalani Coconut Liquor (Mexico; Anchor canos and the like. 88 Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). abv: 25% Price: $26 Dancing Pines Black Walnut (USA; Danc- This pale straw-colored liqueur features a sweet, light 90 ing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Com- coconut fragrance and bright, lingering coconut flavor. Schwartzhog Kräuter Liqueur (Germany; plex and piquant, this flavored Bourbon liqueur reads Thick feel. 92 The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). For like an amaro. The dark brown liquid has a spicy, her- abv: 30% Price: $26 full review see page 10. baceous aroma and flavor, with sophisticated black pep- abv: 36.7% Price: $15 per, ginger and cinnamon accents, and a touch of nutty Stone Barn Brandyworks Red Wing espresso richness. It doesn’t really resemble walnut, but 88 Roast Coffee Liqueur (USA; Stone Barn Jägermeister (Germany; Sidney Frank that doesn’t really matter. Whatever it is, it’s delectable. Brandyworks, Portland, OR). For those seeking a 91 Importing, New Rochelle, NY). Despite its abv: 38% Price: $36 true coffee experience in liqueur, here it is. From Port- overuse among college students as a get-drunk-quick land, Oregon, one of the capitals of coffee, Stone Barn shooter to cascade down ice luges, this is excellent Dancing Pines Brûlée Caramel (USA; Brandyworks has infused their Pinot Noir brandy with digestif material for grown-ups too. This ruddy, herbal 90 Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Yemeni and El Salvadoran , along with vanilla, spirit is dominated by licorice and clove flavors, with A very pure expression of caramel, this spirit has a dark cinnamon and sugar. The end result is a fresh-brewed a faint, bracingly bitter tinge in the medium-bodied honey color, mild caramel aroma, and creamy, sticky- coffee aroma and flavor with a bitter edge, light feel and mouth and on the finish. The college crowd got one toffee flavor. It coats the palate like drinking liquid dark brown color. For a liqueur, a bit more sweetness thing right, though: Jäger is best icy cold. milky caramel. Mix with Bourbon and other whiskies. would have been welcome. abv: 35% Price: $24 It’s made with caramelized sugar cane, no other added abv: 25% Price: $25 flavorings. Luxardo Amaro Abano (Italy; Anchor abv: 25% Price: $36 Café Granita Coffee Liqueur (USA; 91 Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). 87 Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Some amaros are tongue-curlingly bitter, but that is not Senior Curacao Chocolate (Curacao; Plains, NY). Bring on the white Russians! This deep the case with this one. Instead, bitter, sweet and herbal 90 Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White brown, coffee-scented liqueur leans very sweet, and flavors are in harmonious balance, entwined with lin- Plains, NY). Those who hoard chocolate oranges at practically begs to be mixed with cream. gering spice, espresso and sarsaparilla notes. Great for Christmas time will love this liqueur, which melds or- abv: 21% Price: $14 apéritif and digestif cocktails seeking a bitter touch. ange-peel and fudge flavors in a very grown-up way. abv: 30% Price: $26 With a translucent reddish-brown hue, bright choco- Poli Miele Honey Liqueur (Italy; Winebow, late-almond aroma and brandy-like finish, this is an ex- 87 New York, NY). A curiously old-fashioned The Bitter Truth E**X**R (France; Do- cellent mixer that can add an elusive chocolate edge to spirit, within an old-fashioned wine bottle with a tall, 91 maine Select Wine Estates, New York, a cocktail or pair with dessert. skinny neck topped with a swing-line cap. The yellow- NY). Produced by vermouth-maker Dolin in France abv: 25% Price: $34 tinged liqueur is botanical and citrusy up front, with for Germany’s Bitter Truth label, this nut-brown li- grappa-like heat fading into a creamy honey note. queur has a surprising bitter aroma and a mix of bitter Barenjager Honey Liqueur (Germany; abv: 35% Price: $35 and berry-sweet on the tongue, finishing with a smatter- 89 Sidney Frank Importing, New Rochelle, ing of ginger, cinnamon and black pepper. Although this NY). Though an old-school German recipe, this thick Noyau de Poissy (France; Anchor Distill- would be ideal dashed into cocktails, it’s also enjoyable honey-herbal liqueur is finding increasing use in the 85 ing Company, San Francisco, CA). The splashed into ginger ale. mixology world lately, often mixed with tea and dark oldest liqueur in France, dating to 1683, this liqueur abv: 30% Price: $34 spirits like Bourbon or brandy. True honey flavor, features almonds and apricots macerated in Cognac. creamy feel. Cute beehive motif to the bottle and bottle Nearly clear and clocking in at 80 proof, the spirit reads (; Pernod Ri- cap. almost as almond extract, with its marshmallow fra- 90 card USA, Purchase, NY). This cheery but- abv: 35% Price: $30 grance and sweet, lightly almond and floral flavor with a tercup-yellow spirit evolves from sweet to bitter in sec- rush of heat on the finish. Consider using to add subtle onds flat. At first, it has a sweet, honey-like cast, then Bottega Gianduia (Italy; Palm Bay Inter- flavor to cakes and confections. ginger and other herbal notes develop and, finally, it fin- 89 national, Port Washington, NY). For full re- abv: 40% Price: $47 ishes dry, with an amaro-like bitter note. Traditionally view see page 10. consumed neat, Becherovka also stands up well to dilu- abv: 17% Price: $25 tion (tonic, club soda) and makes a particularly refresh- HERBAL LIQUEURS ing apéritif chilled with a squeeze of lime. Dancing Pines Espresso (USA; Dancing Killepitsch (Germany; Vision Wine & abv: 38% Price: $24 89 Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). This small- 95 Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). For full review see batch liqueur is like drinking iced coffee mixed with page 10. Helbing Kummel (Germany; Niche Im- lots of sugar. Cloudy nut-brown appearance (“Contains abv: 42% Price: $25 90 port Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Despite the real coffee beans. Separation occurs naturally,” the label tall, square-shouldered green glass bottle, the spirit in- side is clear and bright. Look for a light sweetness and

WineMag.com | 73 pronounced anise and caraway flavors. Induces cravings caution is advised for straight-up sipping: this green for a slice of fresh rye bread. Best chilled. giant weighs in at a whopping 110 proof. abv: 35% Price: $32/1 L abv: 55% Price: $58

The Old Liquor Store Green Tea Liqueur Calisaya (USA; Elixir, Eugene, OR). This 90 (Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, 86 sunny gold spirit is honey-sweet, with a finish White Plains, NY). No doubt, this is a tea liqueur. reminiscent of Indian spices. Consider serving as an ex- The amber color evokes weak black tea. The aroma is otic touch alongside a honeyed dessert like baklava. reminiscent of with notes of chamomile and abv: 35% Price: $46 mint. The flavor is similar to sweetened chai, thanks to the allspice and cinnamon finish. It’s enough to warrant The Old Liquor Store Ginger Liqueur serving this liqueur in China . 84 (Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, abv: 24% Price: $19 White Plains, NY). This sweet amber liqueur has an aroma and flavor reminiscent of a light root beer, al- Goldwasser (Germany; Niche Import Co., though it also has an offputting plastic-like undertone. 89 Cedar Knolls, NJ). Made since the 1500s, the Flavor fades quickly. trademark of this cinnamon-flavored schnapps is the abv: 24% Price: $24 flakes of 22-karat gold suspended in the clear liquid. The flavor is very sweet, with a candied Red-Hots fla- vor. It doesn’t even feel like 40 proof. No wonder it’s so popular as a shooter: it goes down easy, leaving a warm cinnamon glow down the gullet. abv: 40% Price: $31

Stroh Jagertee Liqueur (; Niche 89 Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). This mus- cular, somewhat medicinal amber liqueur is made from overproof rum mixed with black tea, herbs and spices. The warming orange-peel, ginger, vanilla, and allspice flavors would work well as a digestif, or rounding out a punch. abv: 40% Price: $33/1 L

The Bitter Truth Pimento Dram (Germany; 89 Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY). This ruddy liqueur has a pronounced clove and allspice fragrance, and a sweet flavor with lots of peppy baking spice on the finish. Drying, tannic feel. Use for tiki drinks and other cocktails when spice is desired. abv: 22% Price: $34

The King’s Ginger (Holland; Anchor Dis- 89 tilling Company, San Francisco, CA). “Specifically formulated by Berry Bros. in 1903 for King Edward VII,” this golden elixir has a citrusy aroma and a honey note that zings into a big gingery finish. A ver- satile cocktail mixer. abv: 41% Price: $40

AGWA de Bolivia (Amsterdam; BABCO 88 Imports, Manhasset, NY). Yes, this pale neon-green liqueur is distilled from Bolivian coca leaves. But sorry, thrill seekers, the “negative narcotic compounds” are removed before the distillate is blend- ed with 36 other herbs. The end result is a faint anise and grassy scent, and light flavors of anise, ginger, kiwi fruit and lychee, with a soft lemongrass and white-pep- per spiciness. Consider subbing for green Chartreuse in cocktails. abv: 30% Price: $32

Pages Verveine de Velay Green (France; 87 Anchor Distilling Company, San Francis- co, CA). This intensely herbal, emerald-green liqueur is made with a blend of 32 botanicals, but a strong whiff of anise dominates the aroma and flavor. Although small doses may add a fresh herbal complexity to cocktails,

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 BEER lection that’s quite sessionable. Light aromas and flavors of fresh lemon supremes, banana, yeast and sweet spice unfold on the nose and mouth. The mouthfeel boasts THE GOLD (OR BLONDE) STANDARD a somewhat creamy texture that’s lifted by vibrant and cleansing carbonation. Clean and brief on the finish, ctober is one of those funny months, a perception of fruity esters and sweet malt fla- this isn’t the most complex brew but it’s balanced and when you can still remember what sum- vors to give them some depth and complexity. refreshing. Omer was like but suggestions of what’s Alcohol can also vary depending on the abv: 5.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack to come in the days ahead keep you grounded producer and their country of origin. Overall, in fall reality. The leaves start to change in the blonde ales can be anywhere in the 4–8% abv Four in Hand River Card Wheat Beer 86 (American Pale Wheat Ale; World Brews, Northeast, and people try to enjoy the remain- range, with the traditional Belgian-style brews NY). Here’s an approachable and enjoyable session beer ing warm days before long-sleeved shirts and boasting higher abvs than most American that’s easy to like. It might not be the most nuanced or sweaters come out of hibernation. It’s the per- counterparts. On the lower-alcohol end of the complicated sip, but it’s balanced and refreshing with fect time to enjoy a blonde ale. spectrum, blonde ales can even exhibit lager- bright notes of lemon, fresh wheat, dried grass and a Blonde ales are an interesting category, with like characteristics thanks to their approach- touch of peppery spice. Medium bodied, with good car- bonation and a slightly bitter and spicy finish. Best Buy. a bit of variation between international and do- able nature and balanced, easy-drinking palate. abv: 4.5% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack mestic selections. They are all typically crisp If blondes aren’t your thing, we have some and dry, with a low to medium noble-hop pres- other golden-brew reviews for you to enjoy: Hopper Whitman Summer Brew Wheat ence, although American offerings generally American wheat beers and a stellar weizenbock 85 Ale (American Pale Wheat Ale; World Brews, NY). Brisk and refreshing, this summer ale is trend toward the medium side of the spectrum from Weihenstephan, widely regarded as the uncomplicated and to the point, with clean aromas and more than traditional Belgian examples. While world’s oldest brewery. flavors of lemon slices, plantain, green melon and raw they are clean and refreshing, there tends to be Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo wheat. Medium bodied, with assertive carbonation and a short but slightly sweet close. abv: 5.1% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack grain unfold on the nose and mouth. It’s smooth and BLONDE ALES approachable, with a medium-weight body and moder- Brewery Bockor Omer Traditional Blond ate carbonation. The finish is clean, with a slightly bitter 91 Ale (Belgian-style Blonde Ale; Brewery edge and a light dusting of sweet spice. Bockor, Belgium). Pours a hazy golden color with abv: 6.2% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack a white head that boasts superb longevity and leaves beautiful lacing behind. The aromas are fresh and clean, with some attractive herbal accents that spice up OTHER ALES the citrus, banana, yellow apple and sourdough bread Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizenbock core. The mouthfeel is dry yet full, with the brisk car- 94 (Weizenbock; Brauerei Weihenstephan, bonation assisting in balancing out the sweet fruit fla- Germany). Vitus, made from a resurrected recipe that vors and weight of the high alcohol. Hints of clove and is now being brewed year round, is a full-bodied and in- white pepper unfold on the slightly bitter finish. Arti- tensely flavored weizenbock that offers layer upon lay- sanal Imports. er of aromas and flavors. A cloudy golden color in the abv: 8% Price: $10/750 ml glass, it starts off with an incredible head that lingers and leaves gorgeous lacing behind with each sip. Scents Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve of banana, green tropical fruit, lemon and clove fill the 89 Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale; bouquet and continue on to the palate alongside addi- Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). For full re- tional flavors of sweet spice, vanilla bean, bread dough view see page 11. and pear flesh. Balanced and harmonious, with a long abv: 8.5% Price: $10/750 ml and spicy finish. Total Beverage Solution. Widmer Brothers Citra Blonde Summer abv: 7.7% Price: $4/500 ml 88 Brew (American Blonde Ale; Widmer Brothers Brewing Company, OR). A clear gold Karl Strauss Windansea Wheat (Hefe- color in the glass with an attractive and fruit-forward 87 weizen; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, bouquet, this summer brew is an easy-drinking selec- CA). Easy-pleasing and accessible, this is a good session tion that’s sure to satisfy. Ripe tropical-fruit aromas min- selection that goes down smooth and would pair easily gle with notes of yeasty spice, sweet grass and orange with most foods. Typical wheat beer aromas of clove, rind. The hop flavors keep things interesting on the pal- pepper, banana and bready yeast appear on the nose, ate, imparting a pleasant bitterness to the citrus, mango but only with medium intensity. Lemon and wheat fla- and pineapple flavors, and which carries through to the vors dominate the medium-weight mouth. The crisp clean and refreshing finish. carbonation and slightly creamy mouthfeel work to- abv: 4.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack gether in harmony, resulting in a clean and refreshing finish. Metolius River Ales Yellow Sally Blonde abv: 5.1% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack 86 Ale (American Blonde Ale; World Brews, NY). Light yellow in color, with a small head that dissi- R.J. King Wingwalker Belgian White (Wit- pates quickly. Delicate notes of citrus, green banana and 87 bier; R.J. King Wingwalker Brewing Com- pany, NY). This is a straightforward yet enjoyable se-

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