BUYING GUIDE OCTOBER 2012 Terraced vineyards in the Alto Douro wine region, a UNESCO World heritage site. 2 PORTUGAL 19 SPAIN 25 PROVENCE 25 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 28 RHÔNE 32 OTHER FRANCE 33 TUSCANY 36 CENTRAL ITALY 42 ARGENTINA 46 MEXICO 47 CALIFORNIA 66 OREGON 70 SPIRITS 75 BEER FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © MAURICIO ABREU/JAI/CORBIS WineMag.com | 1 PORTUGAL PORTUGAL’S VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ortugal produces an impressive variety of wine styles. From the time, however, two important things have happened. Touriga Nacional and crisp, light-as-a-feather wines of Vinho Verde in the north to the Tinta Roriz have been identified as the two great grapes for table wines, P rich, generous wines of the southern Alentejo, there is something and the Douro—dominated for centuries by the big Port houses—has be- for every palate. come a cauldron of experimentation by small, estate-based producers, re- In this month’s reviews, three regions stand out: Vinho Verde, Douro inforcing Portugal’s claim to a place at the top table of wine. and Lisboa. In an age when we are craving both light and slightly sweet Lisboa, whose cool-climate wines I covered in depth in the 2011 Best wines, Vinho Verde fits the bill. The most popular style is semisweet, but of Year (December 31) issue, remains Portugal’s best source for value. The there is increasing interest in dry styles, as seen in many of the high scor- reviews this month contain wine after wine marked as Best Buys, many re- ing wines this month. Regional styles are emerging within the large Vin- tailing for under $10. Nowhere else in the world can you find such a cost- ho Verde region: the elegant, rich Alvarinho wines of the far north and the conscious concentration. crisp Loureiro wines of the Lima Valley in the center. Light fruity whites, world-class reds and terrific value—all in one small, Along its southern margin, Vinho Verde butts up against the Douro Val- astonishingly diverse country. ley. The Douro is still on a voyage of discovery, exploring a wide range of As always, feel free to check out all our reviews from around the world, styles, from light whites to complex reds and almost everything in between. at buyingguide.winemag.com. Premium table wines are still fairly new in this region; they’ve only been Cheers! produced here for less than a quarter of a century. In this relatively short —ROGER VOSS the wine feel lively and refreshing. Aidil Wines & Li- fruit and lively green acidity. Age this for the next year. ALENTEJANO WHITES quor Inc. —R.V. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. Fitapreta Vinhos 2009 Palpite Reserva abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $15 91 Branco (Alentejano). Opulent and wood- aged, this feels intense and rounded with a ripe Bur- DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Burmester 2011 White (Douro). Delicious- gundian feel. The full weight of the peach and apricot 86 Branco (Alentejano). Perfumed, with a soft, 88 ly fresh and perfumed, this has a white flower fruits are given a powerful push by the toast, spice and smooth texture, this has flavors of tropical fruit, peach aroma, with a clean and crisp line of citrusy acidity. vanilla flavors. Age this for 2–3 years. Winebridge Im- and a hint of lemongrass that make for a rich wine. Dio- There is a good tang of structure, giving the wine a fine, ports. —R.V. nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. food-friendly shape. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $NA Adega Mayor 2010 Reserva do Comen- Herdade Grande 2011 Verdelho (Alente- Wines & Winemakers 2011 Andreza Có- 90 dador Branco (Alentejano). The white 86 jano). This is perfumed, soft, warm and ripe, 88 dega do Larinho (Douro). Made from the Reserva from Adega Mayor is wood aged and it feels with smooth peach and mulberry flavors that are offset Códega do Larinho grape (also called Síria), this is a re- full on the palate. It has nutmeg, citrus and apricot fla- by a citrusy tang. It’s a fine apéritif. Grape Moments. freshingly rich wine. It’s full in the mouth yet it retains vors alongside a rounded texture. Age for another two —R.V. its natural freshness, with a touch of pepper, tangy acid- years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ity and great depth of flavor. The finish bears notes of abv: 13% Price: $NA citrus, pear and green apple. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. Herdade Grande 2011 Colheita Seleccio- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Adega Mayor 2011 Monte Mayor Branco 86 nada (Alentejano). Rich and soft, this has a 88 (Alentejano). Honey and tropical fruit aromas creamy smooth texture, with notes of toast, ripe apple Aveleda 2011 Aveleda Branco (Douro). A open the nose, leading to the palate that is warm and and quince. There is a good touch of acidity to this at- 87 new wine in the Aveleda line-up, this is rich and ripe with pineapple and white peach fruit. The bright tractive, ready to drink wine. Grape Moments. —R.V. rounded. It’s aromatic, with a full mouthfeel and flavors acidity lends a fresh and crisply fruity finish, with notes abv: 13.5% Price: $12 of pear and green apple lifted by acidity. The finish is of citrus and apple. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. full and fruity. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória abv: 12% Price: $NA 84 Branco (Alentejano). Soft, round and gentle, Herdade das Servas 2011 Branco (Alen- this has a creamed apple flavor. It has a full, ripe charac- Churchill’s 2011 Branco (Douro). Earth 87 tejano). This is a very ripe and wood-aged ter, with just an edge of green herb and spice. Mediter- 87 aromas set the scene for this full-bodied wine. wine, with vanilla flavors pairing with the smooth tex- ranean Specialty Products. —R.V. It is rich and rounded, with the pear and peach flavors ture of the rich pear and apricot fruits. There is a touch abv: 13.5% Price: $NA dominating the soft texture. Made from grapes sourced of pepper from the alcohol that spoils the purity of the from vineyards high above the Douro River, this has fruit. Simões Imports. —R.V. weight, although on the finish there is freshness. Screw- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 DOURO WHITES cap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2011 Lua Cheia abv: 13% Price: $NA Adega Mayor 2011 Caiado (Alentejano). 89 em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This old-vines 86 This is floral and aromatic, bearing soft, ripe yel- white is impressive with a serious yet fruity character. low fruit, attractive acidity and a soft, rounded texture. It is herbaceous, but it also shows concentration, peach A shaft of citric acidity cuts through the palate, making Continued on Page 13 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagranti- Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael no di Montefalco). Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, 95 One of the top, if not the top, red wines from Umbria. The naturally tannic Sa- European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff grantino grape is softened by the careful oak aging that Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and 99 adds layers of chocolate and spice to the grape’s aromas Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. are incredible aromatics on this Cabernet. It’s powerful of black cherry, tobacco and leather. This is bold, pow- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s yet subtle (how can that be?), all about sweet, crushed erful, masculine and velvety on the finish. Pair it with initials appear following the note. When no initials appear summer blackberries and pure cassis liqueur. Elaborate following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two stewed or grilled meat marinated in rosemary and gar- oak, in the form of buttered toast, is perfectly in bal- or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect lic. Age this in a cellar for 10 years or longer. Folio Fine ance, never overshadowing the fruit. The tannins are the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by dry, rich and smooth, defining Napa elegance, grace and abv: 15% Price: $100 Lauren Buzzeo. beauty. World class, dramatic and just about perfect, Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by this gets better and better as it breathes in the glass. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content Drink now–2030. —S.H. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.8% Price: $150 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted.