How Savory Pancakes Became an Enduring Symbol of Japanese Hope
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How savory pancakes became an enduring symbol of Japanese hope and happiness Okonomiyaki – a savory pancake popularized in the devastating aftermath of the Hiroshima atomic bomb – has become a culinary representative of joy and is today one of the popular food cultures in Japan. The powerful story of Okonomiyaki is one that Otafuku Sauce, the producer of the country’s original pancake condiment and best- selling sauce, wants to spread globally. due to the diffi culty of that time, a variety of ingredients of what- What is “Hiroshima-style Ok� omiyaki”? ever was fresh, available and safe to eat such as cabbage and Bean Green Egg Cabbage green onions. Dried Sprouts Oni� s “Interestingly enough, the fi rst Seaweed sauce used to accompany Oko- Dried Fish nomiyaki was Worcestershire P� der sauce,” says Mr. Sasaki. “One of Pork the features of that sauce is its Tempura thinness, which would cause it Crips to dribble down the food, and this frustrated the owners of Ba� er Okonomiyaki restaurants.” “We consider Okonomi- And so, the company spotted yaki to be a dietary cul- a gap in the market and set out Noodles ture which contributes to come up with a new recipe to society, and we label that would solve local restaurant owners’ sauce-based problem. our mission to spread “We began researching and this dish to the world developing sauces which go well the ‘Okono-mission’” with Okonomiyaki, and in 1952, Otafuku we fi nally developed our original: Ok� omi Sauce Can you predict what will be the next food trend after ramen? Naoyoshi Sasaki, President, Otafuku Okonomi Sauce. The thickness and viscosity was de- The culinary world is seeing the rise of a new favorite Otafuku Sauce Co., Ltd. from Japan called Okonomiyaki. The dish, fi rst eaten veloped in response to the lack to ward off hunger after WWII, is now a symbolic food of consistency of Worcestershire of Hiroshima and its reconstruction. In 1922, a young entrepreneur sauce, which was a challenge for Okonomiyaki is a savory street-style pancake that is named Seiichi Sasaki began sell- the owners to cook with.” renowned for its delicious fl avor and high nutritional ing Japanese sake and soy sauce Okonomiyaki – the cheap and content. You can add any ingredient you like to the dish at a small store in the Yokogawa delicious dish – had revitalized the that literally translates to “whatever you like, grilled.” district of Hiroshima City. people of Hiroshima recovering The one ingredient that should not be skipped Having built a modest success from the aftermath of World War is Otafuku Okonomi Sauce, Japan’s top-selling with his local shop, Sasaki be- Two. Now they had been given the condiment. Otafuku Okonomi Sauce became popular gan to experiment with brew- perfect sauce to pair with their after WWII when Okonomiyaki became a staple food in Hiroshima. The ing vinegar in 1938. He started favorite meal, and so it was excep- sauce is mild and sweet with about 50 selected ingredients, and the developing his own koji (a kind tionally well received by chefs and unmistakable fl avor of dates distinguishes this sauce from any other of rice malt), that would be used the local population alike. Japanese condiment. for a special new vinegar. His Today, the ethos of Otafuku https://www.otafukusauce.com/e/ initial expectations were mod- Sauce – which makes and sells est: the taste, he hoped, would a range of sauces, vinegars and simply bring a smile to people’s Okonomiyaki ingredient sets – re- thought about his wife as a god- says the president. “To fulfi ll the faces. This was the genesis of one mains identical to when it started dess and the logo symbolizes his ‘Okono-mission’, we must develop of modern-day Japan’s favorite out: to bring joy to people. It is respect to women.” our brand and raise international and best-selling sauces, Otafuku a mission, says Mr. Sasaki, that The story of Okonomiyaki, awareness. We have begun to Okonomi Sauce. is perfectly symbolized by the which is little known outside do that by incorporating English “Not long after that the atomic brand’s logo. Japan, is indeed one that carries in our brand logo last year. So, bomb hit Hiroshima and the city was “The concept of our emblem a message of hope, happiness to spread Okonomiyaki and our destroyed and burnt to the ground,” is to spread joy and happiness and simple pleasures in life that products globally, our strategy is to recalls Naoyoshi Sasaki, grandson to the world. My grandfather the modern Otafuku brand now make foreigners that come to Ja- of the Otafuku brand founder and founded the company and he wants to help spread beyond the pan try the dish with our delicious now company president. adopted this traditional image, shores of the island. sauce. Because once you’ve tried It was in the process of re- a Japanese goddess, for what it “We consider Okonomiyaki to it, you will remember it forever!” building the city, however, that symbolized. At the time of our be a dietary culture which con- one particular dish was popu- company’s foundation, women tributes to society, and we label larized: Okonomiyaki – a simple were generally in charge of cook- our mission to spread this dish to savory pancake that contained, ing. I believe that my grandfather the world the ‘Okono-mission’,” .