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Cardiffpop 346,000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd #_ CardiffPOP 346,000 Includes ¨ Why Go? Sights . 45 The capital of Wales since only 1955, Cardiff has embraced Activities . 57 the role with vigour, emerging in the new millennium as Tours . 57 one of Britain’s leading urban centres. Caught between an Festivals & Events . 57 ancient fort and an ultramodern waterfront, compact Car- diff seems to have surprised even itself with how interesting Sleeping . .. 58 it has become. Eating . 62 The city has entered the 21st century pumped up on ster- Drinking & Nightlife . 65 oids, flexing its recently acquired architectural muscles as if Entertainment . .66 it’s still astonished to have them. This newfound confidence Shopping . 68 is infectious, and these days it’s not just the rugby that draws crowds into the city. Come the weekend, a buzz reverberates Vale of Glamorgan . 73 through the streets as swarms of shoppers hit the Hayes, Penarth . 73 followed by waves of revellers descending on the capital’s Barry (Y Barri) . 75 thriving pubs, bars and live-music venues. Cardiff makes an excellent base for day trips to the sur- rounding valleys and coast, where you’ll find castles, beach- es, interesting industrial sites and ancient monuments. Best Places to Eat ¨ Purple Poppadom (p64) ¨ Fish at 85 (p64) ¨ Mint & Mustard (p65) When to Go ¨ ¨ Oz Urfa (p65) January and February are the coldest months, although Wales’ home matches in the Six Nations Rugby ¨ Riverside Market (p64) Championship warm spirits in February and March. ¨ June is the driest month but many of the big festivals hold out until July, including the Cardiff International Best Places Food & Drink Festival, the Everyman Open Air Theatre to Sleep Festival and the Welsh Proms. In August, the warmest ¨ Number 62 (p61) month, knights storm the castle, classic motor boats converge and gay pride takes over the streets. ¨ Lincoln House (p61) ¨ Making the most of the December chill, Cardiff’s Winter ¨ Park Plaza (p61) Wonderland brings ice skating and Santa’s grotto to the ¨ River House (p62) Civic Centre. ¨ Safehouse (p60) 45 History Butes packing their bags and leaving town In AD 75 the Romans built a fort where Car- in 1947, donating the castle and a large diff Castle now stands. The name Cardiff chunk of land to the city. probably derives from Caer Tâf (Fort on the Wales had no official capital and the need River Taff) or Caer Didi (Didius’ Fort), refer- for one was seen as an important focus for ring to Roman general Aulus Didius. After Welsh nationhood. Cardiff had the advantage the Romans left Britain the site remained of being Wales’ biggest city and boasting the CARDIFF unoccupied until the Norman Conquest. architectural riches of the Civic Centre. It was In 1093 a Norman knight named Robert proclaimed the first capital of Wales in 1955, Fitzhamon (conqueror of Glamorgan and chosen via a ballot of the members of the Welsh authorities. Cardiff received 36 votes SI S later earl of Gloucester) built himself a cas- I G to Caernarfon’s 11 and Aberystwyth’s four. G H tle within the Roman walls and a small town H TS grew up around it. Both were damaged in a ts 1 Sights Welsh revolt in 1183 and the town was sacked in 1404 by Owain Glyndŵr during his ill- fated rebellion against English domination. 1 City Centre The first of the Tudor Acts of Union in o 1536 put the English stamp on Cardiff and National Museum Cardiff MUSEUM % brought some stability. But despite its impor- (Map p50; 0300 111 2 333; www .museum h tance as a port, market town and bishopric, wales ac. .uk; Gorsedd Gardens Rd; 10am-4pm F only 1000 people were living here in 1801. Tue-Sun) Devoted mainly to natural his- The city owes its present stature to iron tory and art, this grand neoclassical building and coal mining in the valleys to the north. is the centrepiece of the seven institutions Coal was first exported from Cardiff on a dotted around the country that together small scale as early as 1600. In 1794 the Bute form the Welsh National Museum. It’s one family,which owned much of the land from of Britain’s best museums; you’ll need at which Welsh coal was mined, built the Glam- least three hours to do it justice, but it could organshire Canal for shipping iron from Mer- easily consume the best part of a rainy day. thyr Tydfil down to Cardiff. In 1840 this was The Evolution of Wales exhibit whizzes supplanted by the new Taff Vale Railway. onlookers through 4600 million years of A year earlier the second marquess of geological history, its rollicking multimedia Bute had completed the first docks at Bute- display placing Wales into a global context. town, just south of Cardiff, getting the jump Films of volcanic eruptions and aerial foot- on other South Wales ports. By the time it age of the Welsh landscape explain how its dawned on everyone what immense re- scenery was formed, while model dinosaurs serves of coal there were in the valleys – set- and woolly mammoths help keep the kids ting off a kind of black gold rush – the Butes interested. were in a position to insist that it be shipped The natural-history displays range from from Butetown. Cardiff was off and running. brightly coloured insects to the 9m-long The docklands expanded rapidly, the skeleton of a humpback whale that washed Butes grew staggeringly rich and the city up near Aberthaw in 1982. The world’s larg- boomed, its population mushrooming to est turtle (2.88m by 2.74m), a leatherback 170,000 by the end of the 19th century and that was found on Harlech beach, is also to 227,000 by 1931. A large, multi racial work- here, suspended on wires from the ceiling. ers’ community known as Tiger Bay grew up The excellent art collection’s treasures in the harbourside area of Butetown. In 1905 include a trio of Monet’s Water Lilies, along- Cardiff was officially designated a city, and a side his scenes of London, Rouen and Ven- year later its elegant Civic Centre was inau- ice; Sisley’s The Cliff at Penarth (the artist gurated. In 1913 Cardiff became the world’s was married in Cardiff); Renoir’s shim- top coal port, exporting some 13 million mering La Parisienne; a cast of Rodin’s tonnes of the stuff. The Kiss; and Van Gogh’s anguished Rain: The post-WWI slump in the coal trade Auvers. Welsh artists such as Gwen and Au- and the Great Depression of the 1930s gustus John, Richard Wilson, Thomas Jones, slowed this expansion. The city was badly David Jones and Ceri Richards are well rep- damaged by WWII bombing, which claimed resented, along with famous names from over 350 lives. Shortly afterwards the coal across the border such as Francis Bacon, Da- industry was nationalised, which led to the vid Hockney and Rachel Whiteread..
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