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Karpenisi Evritanias guide Karpenisi 146 ΚΑΡΠΕΝΗΣΙ: Η μΕγΑλΗ γΙοΡτΗ τΗΣ φύΣΗΣ Ένα από τα ομορφότερα και ανεξερεύνητα τοπία της Ελλάδας ξεδιπλώνεται σε όλο του το μεγαλείο μέσα από τέσσερις διαδρομές, με αφετηρία την πρωτεύουσα του νομού Ευρυτανίας. Karpenisi: A celebration of highland nature One of the most beautiful yet least explored landscapes in Greece is revealed in all its grandeur through four routes starting from the capital of the Evrytania region. Από τόν Φώτη ΒΑλλΑτό, Φώτόγραφιεσ: ΑλεξΑνδρος ΧΑρτώνας / BY FOTIS VALLATOS, PHOTOS: ALEXANDROS CHARTONAS Η θέα από τα Φιδάκια, με τη λίμνη των Κρεμαστών να διακρίνεται στον ορίζοντα / View from Fidakia with Lake Kremaston in the background 147 guide Karpenisi Φιδάκια / Fidakia Η φύση ανταγωνίζεται την ιστορία στο Καρπενήσι. Οι ατελεί- NATURE competes with history in Evrytania. The countless (and usually ωτες (και συνήθως χιονισμένες) βουνοκορφές με τους «δραμα- snow-sprinkled) lofty peaks that top dramatic rock formations, traditional τικούς» σχηματισμούς, τα παραδοσιακά, πετρόκτιστα χωριά, τα villages with stone-built houses, museums that recount the area’s social and μουσεία που διηγούνται την κοινωνική και πολιτική παράδοση cultural traditions, an excellent ski resort, the heady scent of pine, gurgling springs and rivers, valleys, waterfalls, mountain ranges and dozens of op- του τόπου, το χιονοδρομικό κέντρο, η μυρωδιά από έλατο, το κε- tions for hiking, climbing and rafting make this the perfect place for winter λάρυσμα του νερού, οι κοιλάδες, οι καταρράκτες, τα οροπέδια excursions that combine adventure with absolute peace. και οι δεκάδες επιλογές για πεζοπορία, ορειβασία, ράφτινγκ κα- θιστούν αυτόν τον τόπο μοναδικό και ιδανικό για χειμερινές (και ROUTE 1 όχι μόνο) εξορμήσεις, με αφετηρία την περιπέτεια αλλά και την KARPENISI – MEGALO HORIO – PROUSOS – VELOTA απόλυτη γαλήνη. Take the road leading out of Karpenisi to Prousos, making your first stop at Plastiri, a family-run workshop owned by Triantafyllia Gourlioti-Karageor- 1η Διαδρομή giou, who makes mouth-watering pies (the leek version is our favourite) and Καρπενήσι - Μεγάλο Χωριό - Προυσός - Βελωτά then on to Saloon, an adventure park where you can go horseback riding Στο δρόμο προς την έξοδο από το Καρπενήσι προς Προυσό, or climbing, or even have a go at archery, before relaxing with a hot choc- olate, rakomelo (raki and honey) or mountain tea in its lovely wooden sa- πρώτη στάση στο Πλαστήρι, το οικογενειακό εργαστήριο της loon-style bar. Τριανταφυλλιάς Γουρλιώτη-Καραγεωργού, η οποία φτιάχνει The next stop is Koryschades, a village that played a key role in the libera- συγκλονιστικές χειροποίητες πίτες, και στη συνέχεια στο πάρκο tion of the country in World War II, hosting the first meeting of the the Polit- δραστηριοτήτων Saloon, όπου μια καταπράσινη έκταση προ- ical Committee of National Liberation. Today the former schoolhouse is the σφέρεται για τουριστική ιππασία, αναρρίχηση και τοξοβολία σε Museum of the National Resistance with a display of fascinating photo- συνδυασμό με ένα ξύλινο κτίσμα με τζάκι, όπου σερβίρονται ζε- graphs shot during WWII by National Resistance photographer Spyros Me- στή σοκολάτα, ρακόμελο και τσάι του βουνού. letzis. For a coffee and a piece of very special baklava, go toVillagio , which Επόμενος σταθμός οι αρχοντικοί Κορυσχάδες, οικισμός με hosts live rock and Greek arthouse bands in the evenings, while the store al- ιστορικές μνήμες, καθώς στο σχολείο του γίνονταν επί Κατοχής so called Koryschades sells local sweets, honey and folk art. οι συνελεύσεις του Εθνικού Συμβουλίου της ελεύθερης Ελλάδας. The village of Klafsi is nearby. The 5th-century early Christian Agios An- dreas Church is worth a visit for the mosaic floor, while theMathes taverna Σήμερα, λειτουργεί ως Μουσείο Εθνικής Αντίστασης, φιλο- (tel. 22370-22.397) serves excellent rabbit stew in a white rosemary sauce. ξενώντας ντοκουμέντα του φωτογράφου Σπύρου Μελετζή. Για Megalo Horio (Big Village) is instantly visible past Klafsi. It has lovely stone καφέ αλλά και μπακλαβά στο Villaggio, που συχνά φιλοξενεί houses, pretty alleyways and a very thoughtful folk art museum. Tuck into a και live με έντεχνη ή ροκ μουσική, ενώ για χυλοπίτες, είδη λαϊκής wedge of sweet galaktoboureko at the traditional Karveli café, as you take τέχνης και γλυκά κουταλιού στο κατάστημα Κορυσχάδες. in the view of Mount Helidona. 148 Aλλαντοποιείο Στρεμμένου / Stremmenos charcuterie Πάρκο δραστηριοτήτων Saloon Οι καταρράκτες στο φαράγγι της Μαύρης Σπηλιάς / Saloon adventure park / Waterfalls at Mavri Spilia Gorge Ζαχαροπλαστείο Delice, Καρπενήσι Άγιος Νικόλαος, Κρίκελλο / Delice pastry / Saint Nicholas Church, Krikello shop, Karpenisi 149 guide Karpenisi Σε κοντινή απόσταση και το Κλαυσί, που σύμφωνα με την πα- Η διαδρομή ακολουθεί τον ποταμό Καρπενησιώτη, ο οποίος ράδοση ονομάστηκε έτσι από τα δάκρυα των επιζώντων μετά τη συναντά τον Κρικελλοπόταμο, ενώνεται και μαζί σχηματίζουν σφαγή των Γαλατών το 279 π.Χ., όταν λεηλατήθηκε το αρχαίο τον Τρικεριώτη. Στη διαδρομή, δίπλα στην πινακίδα προς Καρί- Κάλλιο. Εκεί βρίσκεται ο παλαιοχριστιανικός ναός του Αγίου τσα, υπάρχει ένα πλάτωμα ιδανικό για ξεκούραση και φωτογρα- Λεωνίδη (5ος αιώνας) με το ψηφιδωτό δάπεδο και η ταβέρνα φίες. Λίγο πιο κάτω, βρίσκεται το Κλειδί, ένα εντυπωσιακά στε- Μαθές (τηλ. 22370-22.397), που σερβίρει βλαχομεζέ (χοιρινό νό σημείο όπου ο δρόμος περνάει κάτω από το βράχο, που τον γεμιστό με τυριά στη γάστρα), κουνέλι με άσπρη σάλτσα και δε- καλύπτει σαν θόλος. ντρολίβανο και κολοκυθοτυρόπιτα. Ακολουθεί το ιστορικό Μοναστήρι του Προυσού (9ος αιώ- Αμέσως μετά, προβάλλει το Μεγάλο Χωριό, αγαπημένος ο- νας μ.Χ.), με το άγριο και ιδιαίτερο τοπίο που το περιβάλλει, τον ρεινός προορισμός με πλούσια ιστορία, ειδικά την περίοδο της αγέρωχο βράχο με το ρολόι, τα κειμήλια του Καραϊσκάκη και τη Τουρκοκρατίας, αλλά και παραδόσεις όπως το «Καλήμερα» - τα διάσημη εικόνα της Παναγιάς. Πάνω από αυτό βρίσκεται το ο- κάλαντα που τραγουδούν μόνο οι άνδρες την παραμονή των Φώ- μώνυμο χωριό αλλά και το μονοπάτι για το φαράγγι της Μαύ- των, μόλις νυχτώσει. Πετρόκτιστα σπίτια και καλντερίμια, πολύ ρης Σπηλιάς (καταφύγιο των κατοίκων επί Τουρκοκρατίας) με φροντισμένο Λαογραφικό μουσείο και ζεστό γαλακτομπού- τους εντυπωσιακούς καταρράκτες. Στην αρχή του μονοπατιού ρεκο-σήμα κατατεθέν στο καφενείο του Καρβέλη, με θέα το βρίσκεται το αλλαντοποιείο Στρεμμένου, με το προσούτο Ευ- βουνό της Χελιδόνας. Από κάτω, στο δρόμο, βρίσκεται ο Γαύρος ρυτανίας και διαλεχτά αλλαντικά φυσικής ωρίμασης (χωρίς συ- (συνοικία του Μεγάλου Χωριού), όπου ο Γαβρίλης πουλάει ποι- ντηρητικά) από μαύρο χοίρο - διαθέτει και κιόσκι για πικνίκ και οτικά γαλακτοκομικά από το 1959, χυλοπίτες και τραχανά παρα- μπάρμπεκιου για ψήσιμο. γωγής του, καθώς και μέλι ελάτου, ενώ το Κονάκι φημίζεται για Κατόπιν ο δρόμος οδηγεί στον αμφιθεατρικά χτισμένο Ασπρό- τις μαγειρικές πήλινες γάστρες σε διάφορα μεγέθη. πυργο, με το άγριο τοπίο και την παλιά εκκλησία (1771) του Aγί- Απέναντι στέκεται το Μικρό Χωριό, που χωρίζεται σε Παλιό ου Ρωμανού, και από εκεί στη σχεδόν ακριτική Βελωτά, τόπο κα- και Νέο. Το Παλιό Μικρό Χωριό καταστράφηκε από μια πολύ- ταγωγής του Παύλου Μπακογιάννη. νεκρη κατολίσθηση λόγω της βροχής το 1963. Από την κατα- στροφή, όμως, δημιουργήθηκε μια λιμνούλα, δίπλα στην οποία 2η Διαδρομή στέκει σχετικό μνημείο. Στο καταπράσινο Νέο Μικρό Χωριό (3 Καρπενήσι - Χιονοδρομικό Βελουχίου χλμ. πιο κάτω), που ιδρύθηκε μετά την κατολίσθηση, βρίσκε- Η καρδιά της πόλης του Καρπενησίου χτυπάει στην πλατεία ται η φημισμένη ταβέρνα Το Χωριάτικο (τηλ. 22370-41.257) Μπότσαρη. Στο κέντρο της πλατείας κυριαρχεί η εκκλησία της του Νασιόπουλου, για αγριογούρουνο στιφάδο, κοκορέτσι και Αγίας Τριάδας με τις παλιές αγιογραφίες, ενώ στις παρυφές αρνί σούβλας. Λίγο πιο έξω, στην ταβέρνα Μεσοστράτι (τηλ. του Καρπενησίου δεσπόζει ο ιδανικός για περίπατο λόφος του 22370-41.118), η κυρία Αντιγόνη μαγειρεύει βετούλι (μικρή γί- Αγίου Δημητρίου, για τον οποίο λέγεται ότι πρόκειται για κομ- δα) κοκκινιστό, ρεβιθάδα στο πήλινο και σπιτικά γλυκά. μάτι του Τυμφρηστού που αποκολλήθηκε στο παρελθόν. Πανοραμική θέα της λίμνης των Κρεμαστών από το πλάτωμα Τσαγκαράλωνα / Panoramic view of Lake Kremaston from Tsagaralona 150 Mikro Horio (Small Village) is just a stone’s throw away, separated into old Θέση Κλειδί, δίπλα στον and new quarters. The old part was destroyed by a deadly rockslide in 1963. ποταμό Καρπενησιώτη / Kleidi, next to the This created a small picturesque lake where today you’ll find a memorial Karpenisiotis River dedicated to the victims. Neo (New) Mikro Horio, 3 km down the hill, is pretty and green, and also home to the Horiatiko taverna (tel. 22370-41.257), famed for its wild boar and onion stew, and spit-roasted kokoretsi (well-seasoned lamb or goat’s in- nards held together with a wrapping of intestines) and lamb. Just outside the village, at the Mesostrati taverna (tel. 22370-41.118), Antigone cooks up dishes including baby goat in tomato sauce, chickpeas baked in an earthen- ware pot and homemade sweets. The route follows the banks of Karpenisiotis River, which joins the Krikel- lopotamos to form the Trikeriotis River. Along the route, beside the signpost pointing to Karitsa is a small plateau that is ideal for a rest and some gor- geous photographs. A bit further along you’ll go through Kleidi, a stunning narrow stretch with huge cliffs. The next stop is the historic 9th-century Prousos Monastery, a popular pilgrimage site as it houses an icon of the Virgin Mary believed to perform miracles. The surrounding landscape is an attraction in its own right, as is the clock tower. Above it lies the village of the same name and the start of a trail through the beautiful Mavri Spilia Gorge, which boasts some impres- sive waterfalls. At the beginning of the trail you can pick up the perfect picnic at the Stremmenos charcuterie, which produces Evrytania’s famed lontza (prosciutto) and other excellent naturally dried meats. The road then leads to Aspropyrgos, a charming village nestled in the mountainside, with the 1771 Church of Agios Romanos. ROUTE 2 KARPENISI – VELOUCHI SKI RESORT Botsari Square, between the recently revamped Zinopoulou and under-ren- ovation Karpenisioti streets, represents the heart of Karpenisi.
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