Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels February - March 2014

Suits, scarfs, souvenirs The city’s best shopping on 10 pages

Raucous revelling All about fasnacht, the Swiss custom

FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°21 Contents

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Arrival & Transport 6 Get your bearings

City Basics 8 Facts, habits, attitudes

Zurich’s districts 11 Sunglasses in winter: it must be our lucky day! www.juanrubiano.com Know where to go

History 12 Nightlife 33 Once upon a time Bars, pubs and clubs

Culture & Events 13 Zurich Nord 38 Concerts, shows and exhibitions Restaurants and bars in the north of the city

Fasnacht 18 Sightseeing 39 Swiss Carnival - music, masks and partying Churches, parks and museums

Quick picks 20 Winter joys 45 Zurich in a nutshell ships, ice skating and day trips

Restaurants 21 Zurich for kids 48 Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more Major fun for minor citizens

Cafés 32 Shopping 50 Chocolate, coff ee and conversation Famous jewellers and Swiss design

Watches 58

Hotels 60 Hotels, hostels, pensions

Queer Zurich 66

Directory 67 Maps & Index Street register 68 City map 70-73 Index 73 Public transport map 74 Waiting for summer: boats at the marina on Utoquai. zuerichfoto.ch

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facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 3 Foreword Zurich these days is wondering where winter disappeared to before it really got started, apart from debating yet an- Publisher pocket publishing GmbH other anti-immigration proposal from the right-wing SVP Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich, and fi ghting about how much noise the airport should tel. +41 32 510 85 76 cause – business as usual really. But one thing in Zurich has [email protected], changed – Zurich In Your Pocket has a new, crisper, breezier www.inyourpocket.ch layout! If you’re a regular reader, you’ll have noticed. We Member of Zürich Tourism spiritclub hope you like it and would love to read any comments you Published 6 times per year, 30 000 copies leave on our website. ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2014 But enough of us, you’re here for Zurich! Some of the city’s highlights this February and March are a huge temporary Editorial art space dedicated to photography (p. 16), the opera and Editors Chris Young & Lukas Füglister ballet season (p. 14) and the fact that that beach holiday Research Roman Neumann, Layout Tomáš Haman is still so far off you can indulge in some serious choco- Photos Agata Muszyńska (AM), Juan Rubiano (www.juanrubiano.com), Rolf Müllestein (zuerichfoto.ch), late explorations (p. 52). It’s also the best season for those Zurich Tourism: Caroline Minjolle (CM), Juan Rubiano (JR), cheesy Swiss specialities fondue and (p. 24), which Bruno Macor (BM), Cover Anton Volgger we can honestly recommend, though some may say it’s an acquired taste. And for entertainment of a rather raucous Sales & Circulation kind, try fasnacht, ’s version of carnival – our General Manager Lukas Füglister feature on page 18 has more. Sales Manager Diego Egloff , sehstoff GmbH, +41 56 210 99 11, diego.egloff @inyourpocket.com Ad rates at www.inyourpocket. ch, COVER STORY closing date next issue: March 14, 2014 Copyright notice & Editor’s note Our cover shows a pier on Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket Bürkliplatz. In summer you publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights might want to jump off here, reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in but for now it’s better to just any form without written permission from the copyright let your eyes wander across the owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license lake to the opera house right on from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). the left, the stately houses in The editorial content of In Your pocket guides is independent and the Alpine peaks of from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to in the far distance. Photo: ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no Anton Volgger responsibility for changes and errors.

ABOUT IYP Place your bet It’s now 22 years since we published the fi rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius on more entertainment ESTONIA in Lithuania - in which time we have LATVIA RUSSIA grown to become the largest publisher Make your stay in Zurich a little more glamorous and much more entertaining. NORTHERN LITHUANIA of locally produced city guides in Eu- IRELAND Swiss Casinos Zürich is open every day from 11:00 am to 4:00 am, and until 5:00 am IRELAND BELARUS rope. We now cover more than 100 cities NETHERLANDS on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. POLAND across the continent (with Gudauri, in UKRAINE Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC and the number of concise, witty, well- HUNGARY written and downright indispensable In SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA Your Pocket guides published each year BOSNIA SERBIA is approaching fi ve million. We will be BULGARIA MONTENEGRO expanding even further this year, with FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA the publication of a guide to Johannes- GREECE burg: our fi rst outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at SOUTH In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face- AFRICA book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Haus Ober, Gessnerallee 3 – 5, 8001 Zurich www.swisscasinos.ch Take the tram to Stauffacher or Sihlstrasse, or the SZU train to Selnau 4 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around At the ticket offi ce in the main hall you can buy train tick- ARRIVING BY PLANE ets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for TAXIS Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres public transport in Zurich and also change money. For time There are 1350 licenced taxis in Zurich and in general they north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900 300 are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s usually easy fl ights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. 300 (1.19Sfr/min). to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following You can fi nd ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per ki- 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can lometre, 69Sfr per hour. Taxi drivers have to and usually do fi nd free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public ARRIVING BY BUS use their metres. Cheating is rare. Luggage does not cost shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 Buses from other European countries arrive at the bus sta- extra. You’ll fi nd taxis at offi cial taxi stands at the main rail- (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and a free Wi-fi for the fi rst 60 tion (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E-1), two minutes walk north way station, at Central, Bellevue and other places. You can minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’. from the main train station. The connections are run by hail them from the streets as well. private companies, most connections are to Eastern and If in doubt stick with the following big companies: To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and Southern Europe. The bus station itself off ers very few facili- Q from the airport is by train. Take one of the fast trains or slow- ties but you can buy some tickets here. Zurich sightseeing TAXI 444 tel. +41 44 444 44 44. Q er S-trains leaving from the underground train station near buses start here as well. TAXI 7x7 tel. +41 44 777 77 77. terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to ten trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly ARRIVING BY CAR BICYCLES ten minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all direc- Many locals in Zurich get around town by bicycle. For the ticket machines (switch them to English on the fi rst screen) tions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City the The tram stop in a sleek yesteryear style at Paradeplatz. fl at areas around Lake Zurich and the river, a bike is ideal. next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is scarce and Zurich Tourism (BM) an adult is 6.60Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to fi nd a ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public trans- slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is identifi cation and port, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price. there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your arrival time on card for one month for 110Sfr - and travel for half the fare 20Sfr as a deposit. The Velostation Süd is provisonary in your parking disk. on all public transport. If you board a train without a valid containers close to track 5. The northern one is close to ticket, you will have to pay a fi ne of 90Sfr. track 18.QE-1, Hauptbahnhof / Velostation Nord & Süd, Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using tel. +41 43 288 34 45, www.zuerirollt.ch. Nord open the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (avail- City transport daily 08:00 - 21:30, Süd 08:00 - 19:30, Sat & Sun closed. able at petrol stations and post offi ces). Remember that Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, trams always have right of way, as well as pedestrians on local trains, ships on the lake and on the river. The ticket zebra-crossings without traffi c lights. system is fairly simple: Zurich’s cantonal network is divided CAR RENTAL into zones. So you don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is one zone, zone an ID and a valid licence - some companies do however allow you to have roughly one glass of before driving. number 110 (see map page 74). Tickets are valid in the cho- also require a minimum age and minimum driving ex- The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, sen zones on all kinds of transport. For getting around the perience. 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. city (zone 110) a day pass valid for 24 hours will cost you In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often 8.40Sfr, a single ticket valid for 1 hour 4.20Sfr. Children up to AVISQC-3, Gartenhofstrasse 17, 8Werd, tel. +41 44 If you’re running down Bahnhofstrasse to catch that train: this is 30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements 5 travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare 296 87 87, www.avis.ch. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 - your destination. AM with many European countries to make sure you pay the (which actually is 2.90Sfr). These tickets can be purchased 12:15, 13:15 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. fi ne even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use at the ticket machines you fi nd at almost every stop (most A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Taxi stands your home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is of them now take credit cards). Be aware that and UNIRENT Local business, cheap rental cars.QM-6, are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Only licensed taxis are valid - if the license is a non EU-one and in a language other the airport are not within zone 110. If you get caught with- Nordstrasse 110, 8Schaff hauserplatz, tel. +41 44 363 allowed to pick up passengers. They are generally safe and than French, English, Italian or German it is recommended out a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public 61 11, www.unirent.ch. reliable. that it be accompanied by an international one. transport, get advice at VBZ Ticketerias, situated at larger tram stops throughout the city. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same PUBLIC TRANSPORT Another option is the ZürichCARD (24Sfr/24hrs, tickets as for the trains are valid. Good option if your hotel Trains 48Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 and between the is in Zurich Nord. The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You airport and the city, as well as giving you free entry to many can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train museums. The Zurich card is available at most ticket ma- network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in chines, VBZ Ticketerias and at the Tourist Information. C:L ARRIVING BY TRAIN Switzerland, trains are defi nitely best - from Zurich there are Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short connections to all the major Swiss cities once or twice an Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun to city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive tables refer to www.sbb .ch. Tickets are sold on vending all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the machines (switch them to English on the fi rst screen) and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a 5Sfr main hall, where you will fi nd ticket offi ces and the tourist at the counters in the main hall at Zurich main train station. supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from HL>HH B69: information. Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to 5 your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the LLL#E6GI>BB:#8= station. travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare. If you supplement by phone.

6 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 7 City Basics City Basics BASIC DATA DRINKING LANGUAGE SMARTS SMART PHONING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for and beer and Area 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be If you want to use your smartphone in Switzerland, you Switzerland: 41285 sq km the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ might consider buying a local prepaid card. This way your Zurich (Canton): 1729 sq km Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in phone will be able to guide you through the city without Zurich (City): 92 sq km are increasingly getting competition from innovative local the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. clocking up sky-high roaming costs. As an extra plus, the brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul or Appenzeller for instance. In Your Pocket mobile website (m.inyourpocket.com) Population Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi) Swiss are also not to be underestimated. While the and the App for the iPhone will work perfectly too - for Switzerland: 7.8 million Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French) best may come from further south, you’ll fi nd some very the app search for ‘In Your Pocket’ in the app store, then Zurich (city): 390,000 Thank you Merci (mersi) good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) download Zurich within the app, it’s free. A prepaid Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong) card is only an option if your phone is not sim-locked. Offi cial languages from the Zurich region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi) Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the You’ll need an ID to get a card, which itself usually costs Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits) around 20Sfr. Zurich: German most common. Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol) Zurich Züri (tsoori) Here we list some of the prepaid cards, their prices and Local time where to get them. Some companies off er cheap data, Central European (GMT+1h) ELECTRICITY others cheap calls abroad. Choose what suits you bet- Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets If you need medical attention, there are two medical centres ter (rates are in Sfr per minute, as of January 2014). are round and take three round pins - they can take Eu- for emergency consultations, one is Permanence at the main domestic calls CUSTOMS roplugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK railway station just next to the taxi stand towards Bahnhof- company calls abroad* data where to buy Switzerland is not member of the European customs union. or Ireland you defi nitely need an adaptor - as well as from strasse, where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn (+41 OK.- mobile 0.22 0.29/0.32 7Sfr/300MB** k kiosks On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real many other countries. 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00), the other migros shops / Yallo 0.35 0.03 5Sfr/150MB** post offi ces tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and mediX, just across the road from the tram stop Stauff acher m-budget to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restric- (+41 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun mobile 0.28 0.28 4.80/150 MB** migros tions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from HEALTH & EMERGENCY 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich has three public hospitals with emer- Lebara migros, coop, simply 0.25 0.19 4.90/120MB** post offi ces Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak gency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. 0.30; max customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries basic English): You can just walk in, service is good, but expect to wait: sunrise free 0.9 per call 0.6 1Sfr per day sunrise shops check with the according customs authorities): *to most European countries incl. UK and USA, landlines Ambulance: 144 EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI ** must be bought in advance and used within 1 month Police: 117 QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. +41 44 466 Firebrigade: 118 11 11. Open 24 / 7. FREE EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID USEFUL ZURICH APPS QK-4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. +41 44 Get Zurich 366 20 55. Open 24 / 7. Well, there is of one app we In Your Pocket recommend very warmly to you: the EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL Q 8 In Your Pocket app features all the content G-2, Rämistrasse 100, ETH / Universitätsspital, for your iPhone! of this guide - and much more - and all for tel. +41 44 255 11 11. Open 24 / 7. offl ine use and free. Apple maps is fully integrated, an offl ine map is available as well. Search the App Store Pharmacies for ’In Your Pocket’, once you have the app, you can Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24 Search the App Store download Zurich. (App Store only) hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where for ’In Your Pocket’ the next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 900 55 35 The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time door- The tower of St. Peter on the left and the town hall Rathaus with 55 (1.50 Sfr/min) which will connect you to the next pharma- one foot in the river . zuerichfoto.ch to-door timetable information for all public transport cy on duty. The pharmacy at main station (Bahnhofplatz 15, » fi nd the venues within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also +41 44 225 42 42) is always open until midnight, the one at nearest to you Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from Bellevue always 24 / 7 (Theaterstrasse 14, +41 44 266 62 22). (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking A to B. And it’s available in English. If you install the free » browse through the tobacco. app of the Swiss Federal Railways SBB Mobile, you can entire content offl ine buy tickets as well. (App store and android market) INTERNET / WI-FI Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits » fully integrated with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. ZüriPlan is a free app by the city of Zurich, off ering In the era of laptops and smartphones internet cafés are not as necessary as they were. What you really need are Apple maps Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air trav- a very exact map of Zurich with an integrated route hotspots. Many cafés and bars in Zurich have free Wi-fi for ellers and 300 euros for other travellers. planner for pedestrians and cyclists. The app is in German, but quite self-explanatory. On the downside, their customers. You will also fi nd the commercial Wi-fi Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city. EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. not all the maps are stored on your phone. But the parts of the maps which have been used are saved for one Another possibility to stay connected with your smart- In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving pas- week. (App Store only) phone during your stay in Switzerland is to buy a prepaid sengers as well. sim card for your phone.

8 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 9 City Basics Zurich’s districts NATIONAL HOLIDAYS MARKET VALUES SEEFELD (8) Seefeld is the name of the district on the eastern shore of January 1 New Year Loaf of 2-5Sfr (€1.65 - 4.15) the lake. Over the past decade it has become an incredibly January 2 Berchtold Day (local) Cup of coff ee 4-6Sfr (€3.30 - 5) popular area to live in - which results in very high rents. There April 18, 2014 Good Friday 0.3 litre of beer (bar) 4-7Sfr (€3.30-5.80) are worries that this is driving away the area’s original inhabit- April 21, 2014 Easter Monday ants and spoiling its charm. With all the new residents, scores Public transport ticket, 1 hr 4.10Sfr (€3.40) April 28, 2014 Sechseläuten (Zurich only) of trendy bars and restaurants have opened in Seefeld. But of May 1 Labour Day (Zurich only) Packet of cigarettes 7Sfr (€5.80) course the major attraction here is the lake: on the lake May 29, 2014 Ascension McDonald‘s Big Mac 6.50Sfr (€5.40) side there is a promenade with boat rentals, two swimming June 9, 2014 Whit Monday The aims for an exchange rate of spots and the ever (over-)crowded Blatterwiese. August 1 National Holiday at least 1.20Sfr/€ (0.83 € per 1Sfr). September 15, 2014 Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) December 25 Christmas & (2) SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post offi ce, open until late. Take The western shore of Lake Zurich is a bit less popular, but a ticket and wait for your turn. QD-2, Kasernenstrasse 97, that’s exactly why it’s worth a visit. When the Seefeld side is LANGUAGE 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, overcrowded on a sunny summer weekend, you might fi nd Switzerland has four offi cial languages: German (spoken Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. it more relaxing on this side. For example swimming at My- by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). thenquai, or on Landiwiese, right on the shore. Enge district Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, The City of Zurich offi cially has 12 urban districts, called houses the two gardens Belvoirpark and Rieterpark as well. where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss MONEY Stadtkreise. They are simply numbered from 1 to 12. How- German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the ever these urban districts are mostly for administrative or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, purposes - we introduce the areas visitors to Zurich should (4 & 5) However, use standard German, so-called 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1,2 and 5 know by the names they are usually known by. The num- Langstrasse (long street) is a street connecting districts 4 Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your bers in brackets show roughly which offi cial districts they and 5 through a tunnel underneath the ocean of railway A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of include. tracks which divide the western part of the city. It was once younger generation. So generally getting by in English is the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or the best-known red light district in Switzerland. But in the no problem. your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATM’s. Credit cards last decade much has changed: more and more striptease are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is NIEDERDORF (1) and night clubs have changed into urban bars now very always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy Niederdorf (the lower village) is the part of the old town popular with Zurich’s young crowd. You will still fi nd strip with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip. on the eastern bank of the river Limmat between the clubs, drugs and a few alcoholics - but some of the most in- squares Central and Bellevue. It’s teeming with restaurants, teresting bars, restaurants and clubs in the city as well (see bars and, spiteful tongues say, undiscerning visitors from the nightlife chapter). As a result it’s Zurich’s most cosmo- SAFETY neighbouring canton Argovia (Argovians have to take politan and multi-cultural district, perfect for bar-hopping Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even a bit of fl ak in Zurich). There is also a sprinkling of adult and with options for partying almost around the clock. for women at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as entertainment, especially in and around Härringstrasse sex in any European city. workers of both sexes look for suitors. Most of Niederdorf is a pedestrian area. It’s criss-crossed with mediaeval ZÜRICH WEST (5) alleys and small squares and a walk through Niederdorf Probably Zurich’s fastest developing district, this formerly SMOKING should be part of every visit to Zurich. Especially if you industrial part of the city is rapidly changing into a new busi- The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public build- leave very busy Niederdorfstrasse up hill towards Oberdorf ness and residential area. Offi ce space and residential devel- ings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars you will discover some lovely spots you wouldn’t have opments have sprouted everywhere, making construction are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir). expected. Along the river on the cafés with sites a long-term feature. The area around Escher-Wyss-Platz outdoor seating are a good excuse to have a drink and has also become one of the city’s entertainment districts A glimpse of St. Peter’s clockface. AM watch Zurich go by. with bars, restaurants and clubs popping up like mushrooms TOURIST INFORMATION over the last 15 years. The fi rst clubs set up in abandoned MAIL & PHONE Zurich Tourism’s newly renovated Tourist service is located industrial buildings, but now many have moved into newly Post in the main hall of the main train station. Book tours and CITY/ (1) built or renovated locations. Some clubs still have a raw, pro- Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of hotels here, and fi nd free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. On the western bank of the river Limmat lies the Linden- visional feel, while the restaurants and bars around the large all your fi nancial transactions. There are post offi ces all over QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. hof quarter, the other part of the old town. Right in its Abaton multiplex cinema have a more mainstream character. the city - the Sihlpost close to the main train station is the centre, on a small hill, Lindenhofplatz gives you excellent one with the longest opening hours (see below). views over Niederdorf. Zurich’s citizens held their meetings VISAS here in mediaeval times. The alleys and streets near here ZÜRICH NORD - OERLIKON (11) Dialling For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply abound with shops of all kinds and some restaurants and The urban district 11 in the north of Zurich, behind the two Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even bars. Towards the west, Bahnhofstrasse - one of the world’s hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is often referred to as Zurich (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone num- though not a member of the European Union, Switzer- most famous shopping streets - marks the border of the Nord. Close to the airport, Oerlikon is home to numerous bers. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling land is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a re- Lindenhof district, and on the other side, the so-called City companies, and to Zurich’s biggest event hall Hallenstadion from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore sult a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always includes Paradeplatz and the fi nancial and business dis- and the trade fair grounds. Lots of housing, offi ces, parks the +41 prefi x, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate. trict, spreading out towards the lake. and hotels have been built here in the past fi ve years.

10 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 11 History Culture & Events XVI Century Zurich off ers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed CLASSICAL MUSIC critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and programme of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle 09.02 SUNDAY became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from and elsewhere. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zu- MOZART - GALA CONCERT 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous rich when touring the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant Orchestre de Chambre de Genève, conductor: Simon behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun theatre scene, but unfortunately only few productions in Gaudenz, clarinet: Annelien Van Wauwe, piano: Lorenzo was forbidden or strictly regulated. English. Soulès. Works by W.A. Mozart.QTonhalle. Concerts start 14:30 & 18:30, 20 - 116Sfr. We list the most important venues in the venue list and re- NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER fer to them only by name in the event list. If the event takes XVI - XVIII Century place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full address in During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and the preview. Events are listed in the categories classical mu- infl uence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time sic, exhibitions, festivals, musicals & shows, rock & pop con- were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the certs and comedy. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll fi nd to- Of course there are way more events than we can list. day in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence We recommend checking out www.zueritipp.ch for more as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy events. into the for a brief fi ve years. ZURICH VENUE LIST Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE XIX - XX Century HALLENSTADION Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch Q ROMANS AND Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federa- and tel. +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min). O-2, 8 SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH tion. The year before, the fi rst railway line in Switzerland was Wallisellenstrasse 45, Messe/Hallenstadion, Ola Rudner, directing the Württembergische Philharmonie. PD 100BC - X Century opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. www.hallenstadion.ch. Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few KAUFLEUTEN Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 12.02 WEDNESDAY site of today’s Lindenhof where you can fi nd a copy of the decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min)QD-3, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihl- BEETHOVEN & TCHAIKOVSKY Roman tomb stone mentioning , the word from train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First strasse, www.kaufl euten.com. Württembergische Philharmonie Reutlingen, conduc- which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD World War and was refuge to the artists who started the tor: Ola Rudner, violin: Sophia Jaff é. Works by Ludwig van and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the pover- KOMPLEX 457 Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 Beethoven & Pyotr I. Tchaikovsky.QTonhalle. Concerts 325 (1.19Sfr/min) or www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the ty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee Q 8 start 15:00 & 19:30, 20 - 116Sfr. Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands 800 (1.19Sfr/min). Hohlstrasse 457, Kappeli, tel. the language that was to become today’s Swiss German were later fulfi lled, though not the demand for the right of +41 44 500 00 60, www.komplex457.ch. 17.02 MONDAY (Schwyzerdüütsch). women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971! KONGRESSHAUSQE-5, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Bürkli- CZECH PHILHARMONICS platz, tel. +41 44 206 36 36, www.kongresshaus.ch. Conductor: Jiří Bělohlávek, piano: Nikolai Lugansky. Works by Bedřich Smetana, Frédéric Chopin and Antonín Dvořák. MOODS Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 Q ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR Q 8 Tonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, 35 - 135Sfr. XII - XIV Century XX Century (1.19Sfr/min). K-6, Schiff baustrasse 6, Schiff bau, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. In the 13th Century Zurich became an During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally 19.02 WEDNESDAY & 20.02 THURSDAY imperial city, answering only to the em- neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, mak- PLAZAQB-3, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksge- TONHALLE peror of the Holy . Zurich ing it diffi cult to import and other goods. General bäude, tel. +41 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Conductor: David Zinman, violin: Janine Jansen, Works by Q was now headed by a woman - the ab- Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing ROTE FABRIK Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 Sergej Prokofj ev & Antonín Dvorák. Tonhalle. Concerts bess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the moun- 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Woll- start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr. an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen tains, the so-called réduit strategy. ishofen, www.rotefabrik.ch. made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zu- 23.02 SUNDAY rich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in THEATER 11 Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 CLASSICAL HIGHLIGHTS ZURICH TODAY 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).QO-2, Thurgauerstrasse 7, use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur 8 Collegium Musicum , conductor: Kevin Griffi ths, violin: Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the XX - XXI Century Messe/Hallenstadion, www.theater11.ch. Maria Solozobova. Works by Felix Mendelssohn, Hans Hu- Q guild of the shoemakers on the left). After the war Switzerland’s economy TONHALLE Tickets: www.tonhalle-orchester.ch, +41 ber, Pyotr I. Tchaikovsky. Tonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, boomed and mass immigration from 44 206 34 34 (10:00 - 18:00)QE-5, Claridenstrasse 7, 25 - 125Sfr. Southern Europe set in, while culturally 8Bürkliplatz, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. ZURICH GOES SWISS… and politically Switzerland remained very 26.02 WEDNESDAY - 28.02 FRIDAY AND PROTESTANT conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth VOLKSHAUS Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 TONHALLE ORCHESTRA 800 800 or www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (both XIV - XVI Century movements clashed with police, but Q 8 Conductor: Charles Dutoit, fl ute: Sabine Poyé, oboe: Simon In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a 1.19Sfr/min). C-3, Stauff acherstrasse 60, Helve- Fuchs, clarinet: Michael Reid, bassoon: Matthias Rácz, trum- treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging major fi nancial centre and has lost the conservative reputa- tiaplatz, www.volkshaus.ch. pet: Philippe Litzler, horn: Ivo Gass, trombone: Seth Quistad, war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon tion. It has become popular as a place to live for highly-skilled X-TRA Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800. organ: Peter Solomon Orgel. Works by , Frank the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of aff ord- QD-1, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz. Martin, Camille Saint-Saëns.QTonhalle. Concerts start all the way to the river . able apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.

12 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events 12.03 WEDNESDAY OPERA & BALLET TONHALLE ORCHESTRA FESTIVALS Conductor: David Zinman, violin: Gidon Kremer. Works by 14.02 FRIDAY - 28.02 FRIDAY ZURICH OPERA & .QTonhalle. EWZ.STATTKINO You can buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 150Sfr. ewz.stattkino festival stands for interactive cinema and the or at the ticket offi ce on site (open from 11:00 until desire to experiment. Across all genres and periods fi lms the performance starts, Sun from 90 minutes before 18.03 TUESDAY are restaged and shown from the personal perspective of the show). Plays are usually with German and Eng- ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA the interpretive artist. On the menu are cult fi lms, rarities Q lish subtitles. F-5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, Conductor and fl ute: . Works by Francesco and gems which are accompanied by a live soundtrack, 8 Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66, Maria Veracini, Johann Christoph Schultze, Johann Chris- a performance or culinary specialities and after-parties. www.opernhaus.ch. tian Schickhardt, Johann Friedrich Fasch and Johann David QL-6, EWZ-Unterwerk Selnau, Selnaustrasse 25, Q 8 February Heinichen. Tonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, 16 - 10Sfr. Stauff acher, tel. +41 44 260 99 90, www.ewz .stattkino.com. Tickets 26Sfr, www.ewz-stattkino.ch. Les pêcheurs de perles 1 19:00 German expressionism: a piece by Karl Schmidt-Rottluff . PD Georges Bizet EXHIBITIONS 28.03 FRIDAY - 29.03 SATURDAY 2, 7, 9, 22, 25 19:30 Alcina G.F. Händel 13.11 WEDNESDAY - 06.04 SUNDAY Swiss queen of fairy tale storytelling.QE-2, Landesmuse- M4MUSIC - POP MUSIC FESTIVAL 8 5 19:00 Alcina G.F. Händel VINTAGE – DESIGN WITH A HISTORY um, Museumstrasse 2, Bahnhofquai/HB, tel. +41 44 This is the festival for Swiss pop and rock music! Besides As a phenomenon it’s been around for a few years, but now 218 65 11, www.maerchen.landesmuseum.ch. Open some up-and-coming national acts like Open Season there 6, 12 19:00 Cosi fan tutte W.A. Mozart it’s a full-blown trend: people prefer the old and the used 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. Admission will also be some international bands on stage: Thumpers 15, 21, 26 18:30 Don Carlo G. Verdi to the shiny and new. This style has come to be known as 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 years free. from the UK and Brone Bells from the USA. The concerts 16 13:00 Alcina G.F. Händel ‘vintage’. Making regular visits to the second-hand shop take place on diff erent stages at Schiff bau, including the is now the best way to be chic. Flaws are in fashion and 07.02 FRIDAY - 11.05 SUNDAY in-house club Moods and the neighbouring Exil. A great 16 19:30 Cosi fan tutte W.A. Mozart patina makes even a mass produced item into something FROM MATISSE TO THE THE BLUE RIDER - spread of contemporary music.QK-6, Schiff bau / Exil, 23 18:00 Don Carlo G. Verdi unique. This exhibition looks at the aura and the very spe- EXPRESSIONISM IN GERMANY AND FRANCE 8Schiff baustrasse 4-6, www.m4music.ch. Tickets: cial quality emanated by ‘original’ vintage pieces as well Today, expressionism is generally viewed as a German www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min), day- March as at the purposefully introduced fl aws in new designer movement - yet in fact it emerged at the start of the 20th passes 59Sfr, 2 days 89Sfr. 1 18:30 Don Carlo G. Verdi objects. Light is thrown on the motives behind the yearn- century from the enthusiastic engagement of German Q 2, 6, 9, 13, 16, ing for objects with a history. Museum für Gestaltung, artists with classical modernism in France. ‘Van Gogh struck 19:00 Aida G. Verdi 8 19, 22, 26, 29 Ausstellungsstrasse 60, Museum für Gestaltung, tel. modern art like a bolt of lightning,’ was how one German www.inyourpocket.com +41 43 446 67 67, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open observer described the painter’s impact on German artists. Der fl iegende Holländer 11, 14, 20, 23 19:00 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission The response by the artists of Die Brücke and Der Blaue Reiter R. Wagner 12/8Sfr. to French neo-impressionism and the fauves was a veritable Les contes d’Hoff mann 21, 25, 28 19:00 riot of colour. The exhibition reveals expressionism in its J. Off enbach true light, the spirit of cosmopolitanism and productive exchange. Together with over 100 masterpieces of classical BALLET modernism and German expressionism, it presents the The Zurich Ballet Company has been directed by fi ndings of recent research into a history of reception.QG- Christian Spuck since 2012. 36 world-class dancers 4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41 44 253 belong to the company - another 14 dance in 84 84. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon the junior company. The shows take place at Q closed. Admisson 22/17Sfr, incl. permanent exhibition Zurich’s opera. F-5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 25/18Sfr. Children up to 16 years free. 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. 15.02 SATURDAY - 11.05 SUNDAY February COLLECTION ON DISPLAY: JAN DIBBETS, JIMMIE DURHAM, URS FISCHER ET AL. Forellenquintett Collection on Display presents selected works from the 8, 14 19:00 by Martin Schläpfer, music by collection of the museum. This exhibition addresses , The Libertines Hop on a fl ying carpet! This exhibition at the Landesmuseum is a fairy tale! PD institutional and architectural framing, and presents spaces Forellenquintett that become a ‘museum within a museum’. Here, painting 28 19:30 by Martin Schläpfer, music by 10.01 FRIDAY - 11.05 SUNDAY is seen in terms of aesthetic gestures and working methods Franz Schubert, The Libertines FAIRY TALES, MAGIC AND TRUDI GERSTER that are formally characterized by excess. Works by Jan March Fairy tales are among the great narratives of cultural his- Dibbets, Jimmie Durham, Esther Eppstein, Urs Fischer, Q Sleeping Beauty (Dornröschen) tory - they spirit us away to enchanted worlds. This exhibi- David Renggli and Tatiana Trouvé will be on show. L-6, tion, created for children and adults, shows the fairy tale’s Migrosmuseum für Gegenwartskunst, Limmatstrasse 5, 15 19:00 choregraphy by Mats Ek, 8 music by P. Tchaikovsky heritage and history. On exhibit are precious manuscripts, 270, Dammweg, tel. +41 44 277 20 50, www. paintings and objects. And fl ying carpets and a magic for- migrosmuseum.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 23, 30 14:00 Forellenquintett est for the little ones. Audio stations and fi lm projections 20:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed. Admission invite visitors to listen, watch and linger. One room of the 12/8Sfr, children up to 16 years free. Free on Thu after exhibition is dedicated to Trudi Gerster (1919 - 2013), the 17:00.

14 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 15 Culture & Events Culture & Events 04.03 TUESDAY PHOTOGRAPHIC ART ANGÉLIQUE KIDJO CINEMAS The queen of afrofunk, Angélique Kidjo, is on tour with her Photobastei – a snapshot of photographic art in Zurich latest album Eve: expect an energetic live show.QVolk- Zurich has 16 cinemas, many of them with more than Hollow out a disused apartment block, fi ll it with shaus. Concert starts 20:00, 75-85Sfr. one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. as much stunning photography as possible, leave Traditionally fi lms in Switzerland are shown in their nothing but concrete pillars and photographs. That 13.03 THURSDAY original language with German and French subtitles. was Romano Zerbini’s crazy idea and he’s made it come WINSTON MCANUFF & FIXI But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced true. Since the successful launch in January, Zurich has The reggae veteran Winston McAnuff has teamed up with some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have an additional major museum – but only until August Parisian accordion virtuoso Fixi. ‘With our songs we let started to show more and more movies dubbed in Ger- this year. It’s Zurich’s largest temporary art space, people know that the love is always there, even if it is in- man. In the best case they show two versions of the probably the largest the city has ever seen. visible to the eye’, says Winston McAnuff . Optimistic songs same movie: one in original language and one dubbed. Photobastei is using the Haus zur Bastei, the oldest with great drive and creativity.QMoods. Concert starts In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the concrete apartment block in Zurich, built in 1954 by 20:30, 35Sfr. original language - lots of them in English of course. architect Werner Stücheli. The block will be undergo- They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes ing major renovation in autumn, but until then it will 17.03 MONDAY (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - serve as museum, gallery, off space and bar – all to the a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. The West Side Story in full swing. PD JAMES BLUNT benefi t of photography. James Blunt is on tour with his fourth album Moon Landing. Check the daily newspapers or www.zueritipp.ch for The concept veers away from conventional ways The star of this British singer rose with his massive 2004 hit programme and screening times. of running art spaces. On the one hand Zerbini and ROCK, POP You’re beautiful and it looks like it’s still shining.QHallensta- Tickets cost somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr, de- his collaborators have organised exhibitions of major AND JAZZ CONCERTS dion. Concert starts 20:00, 65 - 75Sfr. pending on the movie and the category you choose. photographers, such as Magnum photographer Paolo For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats. Pellegrin who opened the space with a series called venues’ on page 35. As I Was Dying, his fi rst exhibition in Switzerland ever. CORSO A four-screen multiplex at Bellevue. Screen- But Photobastei is an opportunity for totally un- 06.02 THURSDAY ings in the theatres holding between 120 and 750 known photographers to show their work. Exhibiting at JAY JAY JOHANSON spectators start in the afternoon. The Corso off ers Photobastei costs photographers very little, and shows This Swedish singer/songwriter started his career 15 years comfortable and modern seating. Mainly blockbuster can last for as little as two weeks. A team of curators ago. His songs are small, melancholy epics with immense movies in English language - fetch a beer at the bar examines proposals on artistic grounds. And with so before settling down in your seat. To call it’s 1.50Sfr per intensity. On his new album Cockroach Johanson cel- Q 8 much space available, many things are possible. Even ebrates the art of urban blues.QMoods. Concert starts call & min. F-5, Theaterstrasse 10, Bellevue, tel. just at the moment, there are ten exhibitions running 20:30, 38Sfr. +41 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch. side by side. Don’t miss it! Check www.photobastei.ch for the current exhibi- 06.02 THURSDAY RIFFRAFF The Riff Raff is a lovely cinema with four tions and events. The bar on the ground fl oor serves LAURA PAUSINI screens just off Langstrasse - arthouse movies in origi- drinks and hosts events and DJs on weekends.QD-4, nal language, which is not necessarily English, are usu- 8 Laura Pausini is one of the most successful Italian pop stars. Bärengasse 29, Paradeplatz, www.photobastei.ch. To date she has sold over 45 million records worldwide - ally on the menu. If in doubt, ask at the cashier‘s. They Open Tue - Sun, 12:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun bar open also have two bars perfect for a drink before or after the now she is on tour for her 20th stage anniversary - hits, hits, Q 8 until 23:30. hits!QHallenstadion. Concert starts 20:00, 77 - 99Sfr. movie. C-1, Neugasse 57, Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 444 22 00, www.riff raff .ch. 14.02 FRIDAY - 15.02 SATURDAY MUSICALS & SHOWS DEPECHE MODE 07.02 FRIDAY - 16.02 SUNDAY They are the pioneers of electronic music - they’ve been THEATRE & COMEDY AFRIKA! AFRIKA! on stage together for more than 33 years. Over a 100 mil- Funky on the bass: Bootsy Collins. PD INTERNATIONAL COMEDY CLUB André Haller has re-invented his hugely successful show Af- lion records sold, they are on tour with their current album The International Comedy Club brings English-language rika! Afrika! (around four million visitors) and is coming back Delta Machine.QHallenstadion. Concert starts 20:00, 85 17.03 MONDAY stand-up comedy to Zurich. Most of the shows take with gifted dancers, artists, musicians and singers. A mix - 95Sfr. SKUNK ANANSIE - ACOUSTIC place in the Mascotte club, a mid-sized venue at Bel- somewhere between circus, theatre and musical. An intoxi- Skunk Anansie is back - acoustic and probably more levue. Usually you get two comedians at a time. Tickets cating spectacle!QTheater 11. Shows daily 20:00, Sat 15:00 18.02 TUESDAY authentic than ever before. Like this the band around 40/30Sfr at www.ticketcorner.ch. Shows start at 20:00. & 20:00, Sun 14:30 & 19:00, no show on Mon. 59 - 119Sfr. BEADY EYE singer Skin proves that even after 20 years on stage they Qwww.internationalcomedyclub.ch. Beady Eye is the band Oasis after Noel Gallagher left the have the class to provoke and captivate their audience. Q 14.02 Friday 18.02 TUESDAY - 16.03 SUNDAY band in 2009. The wrapping has changed, the content Volkshaus. Concert starts 20:00, 65 - 90Sfr. Russel Brand, (location: Kongresshaus, 90 - 120Sfr) WEST SIDE STORY hasn’t: groovy brit-pop rock at its best.QX-tra. Concert Since it premiered in 1957 on Broadway, the West Side Story starts 20:30, 60Sfr. 21.03 FRIDAY 28.02 Friday has written music history. And this love story inspired by GLORIA Joey Page, Paul Myerhaug Romeo and Juliet is still heartbreaking, just as the tunes 22.02 SATURDAY Gloria is great German pop, coloured with British and 14.03 Friday by Leonard Bernstein are unforgettable. A masterpiece, BOOTSY COLLINS & THE FUNK UNITY BAND American guitar riff s. Add some smart big-city poems - and Tim Fitzhigham, Christian Schulte-Loh now on stage in Zurich. In English of course.QTheater 11. Recently bass master Bootsy Collins celebrated his 62nd you get the easy Gloria sound, perfect for your personal Q Q 28.03 Friday Shows start daily 19:30, Wed 18:30, Sat 14:30 & 19:30, birthday, and yes, he still grooves like hell. Kaufl euten. best time of the day. Kaufl euten. Concert starts 20:00, Al Lubel, Lou Sanders Sun 14:00 & 18:30, no show on Mon. 39 - 119Sfr. Concert starts 20:00, 65 - 85Sfr. 38-45Sfr.

16 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 17 Fasnacht If you run into a crowd of people in wild and wonder- ful masks and costumes playing horrendously loud music DATES & EVENTS on trumpets, horns and drums – well then you must have stumbled on fasnacht, the Swiss version of carnival. In many Swiss cities fasnacht means colourful processions, big tents with live bands and lots of dancing and partying. The Swiss carnival called fasnacht is a major event in some cities. Like Rio has its Samba tradition, several Swiss cities have their own enthusiastically cultivated fasnacht customs. Some people virtually live for this celebration, wai- ting all year for fasnacht to come, creating new elaborate costumes and rehearsing their music routines in fasnacht- associations. In many places they get their fi rst taste on No- vember 11 but fasnacht proper is in February or March (see the box for details) and then lasts for a few raucous days. www.juanrubiano.com An unruly, mediaeval Christian celebration before Ea- Because the fasnacht dates depend on Easter, they ster, fasnacht traditionally had to end at the latest by Ash change every year. They also tend to be diff erent in Wednesday, when the strict 40-day fasting period started, every city, because of confessional diff erences. Or may- where , alcohol and festivities were prohibited. With be just because of the time-honoured Swiss tradition of that prospect before them, it’s no wonder that people took disagreeing with your neighbours. If you‘re a fasnacht the partying seriously during fasnacht. The custom also beginner, try the Zurich events. If you want to see the has the function of scaring winter away and making way for real deal, go to Basel or Luzern, trains get you there in spring, which at least is a justifi cation for the loud trumpets an hour. and horns. Though maybe in times of global warming we should think twice about that... Zurich, Fri, March 7 – Tue, March 11 Some highlights (check www.zurichcarneval.ch, only ...several Swiss cities have their own in German): CarnevaleParade, the main procession with gug- enthusiastically cultivated fasnacht gen and fl oats starts at Fraumünster church, March 9, from 14:30 customs... Party tent, with guggen, New Orleans jazz and more just next to Fraumünster church, March 7 – 9 During mediaeval fasnacht everything was turned Steelbarrage, tent with Carribean steel bands and topsy-turvy, you could make fun of authorities without fea- guggen, Hirschenplatz, March 7 – 9 ring punishment and parody and satirical humour ran wild. Basel, Mon, March 10 – Wed, March 12 Poking fun at the powerful is a central aspect of modern- day fasnacht, especially in Basel which has the country’s Switzerland’s most famous fasnacht, check biggest carnival. Normal business basically grinds to a halt www.fasnachts-comite.ch www.juanrubiano.com for three days, as literally everyone is involved. It gets off Luzern, Thu, February 27 – Tue, March 4 to a quite poetic start at 4:00 on Monday morning, when This fasnacht is Basel’s major rival, check all lights are turned off and a procession of huge lanterns www.luzern.com fl oats through the old town, musically accompanied only by pipers and drummers (the morgesträich). Huge crowds Winterthur, Fri, March 7 – Mon, March 10 come to watch and the railways run special trains from other The biggest fasnacht in the canton of Zurich, check cities. The lanterns comment on recent events – teasing www.winterthur-tourismus.ch politicians or e.g. the bosses of the pharmaceutical giants – but the mockery really starts at the so-called - Music, masks bänke, where singers perform their teasing verses in bars all In Zurich, fasnacht is a bit of an enthusiasts’ tradition, through Basel. Unfortunately, even other Swiss miss many not quite on a par with sächsilüüte or knabenschiessen of the jokes, as it’s all in virtually impenetrable Basel dialect. (see the holiday box p. 10). Zurich boasts around two dozen Luzern also hosts a very big and popular fasnacht, which guggen, which is what the fasnacht bands are called. You and partying starts at 5:00 in the morning on Dirty Thursday (Schmutzi- can hear them at the main parade and at indoor venues ge Donschtig), continues with the Fritschi parade in the (see box). Several beerhalls and bars, especially in Nieder- afternoon and ends on with the so-called dorf, have guggen playing or general fasnacht-ivities. As in monstercorso, a huge parade of big bands and lanterns in the other cities you’ll see many people at the fasnacht wearing FASNACHT - WHEN THE SWISS evening. Many fi rms even close during fasnacht in Luzern, a badge – this is the so-called fasnachts-plakette which is so that everyone can take part! Like Basel, Luzern’s streets sold on the streets to support the fasnacht organisers and GO CRAZY FOR A FEW DAYS and bars are packed during fasnacht, with people pouring can make a nice souvenir. in from all over the region to get in on the fun. Chris Young

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 19 Quick picks Restaurants Zurich has around 1,500 restaurants, bars and take- Eat Drink Do aways. No wonder you can fi nd almost any kind of food SYMBOL KEY The Swiss love to The popular but When the temperatures imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Viet- brunch, especially on low-key Café des drop, ice skating is a namese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge the weekends. , a Amis (p. 32) is a great popular pastime in today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, interna- E J rich in the place for some relaxed Zurich. The skating rink tional style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless Live music City centre location shape of a braid or a drinks in the evening. at the Dolder sports we have tried. We list the places we recommend within S Take away N No credit cards gipfeli (buttery croissants) are the Just outside the more established centre (p. 46) high above the city is a any particular category. The prices in brackets indicate the Local locals’ favourite bread for that. Check nightlife areas, people go here to get great choice. If it gets cold enough, small cheapest and most expensive main courses. For , 8 Nearest tram station C-1 Map coordinates our box on p. 32 for the best away from high-tension partying. Also lakes are opened for skating, but for Lake venues. a plus: brunch until 16:00 on Zurich the last time was in 1963. lots of restaurants off er special deals, usually considerably weekends. cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at take-away grill station too. QH-7, Seefeldstrasse 120, 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and the number (e.g. A-1) before 8Höschgasse, tel. +41 44 383 70 77, www.iroquois.ch. Zurich is plastered with Turkish-style A pint in Zürich is called a grosses – One of the most the address details indicate the coordinates for fi nding it on Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat & Sun Brunch 09:00 - 16:00. (16 takeaways – one of the fi rst was New literally 'a big one' – and one of the impressive sights in the map in the back of this guide. - 30Sfr). A Point (Langstrasse 206, C-1) and it's places you get the most grosses for Zurich is completely free still a sure bet. Here you’ll get a good your buck is at Duda bar (p. 34) with to visit: the Giacometti THE BITE kebab, falafel or whatever almost its rough-and-ready charm. It also murals (p. 39) in the The Bite is the latest of a handful of burger restaurants that around the clock. Cheap, fast, friendly. has its artsy side, as it's here that the main police station. We would actually have recently opened in the city - burgers seem to be back

On the cheap weird Dada art movement say the pay money to see it. But don’t tell light of day. anyone. on the locals’ hitlist. The Bite convinced us with their Classic burger - it was one of the best we have had in a long time. The one-time arsenal If you're in Seefeld, the An amazing number of The beef was fried to perfection, the blend delicious and the Zeughauskeller (p. Iroquois (p. 21) is a pop and rock artists stop cheddar , the shallots and the a great match. 31) is a great place for good place for a few in Zurich, maybe you'll The home-made ketchup and cocktail sauces which came large and drinks – and they also be able to catch one of with the fries went down well too. We could do without generous portions of do great burgers. your favourites? Take a some of the arty chichi - the drinks are served in jars and the

Lads solid food – like their metre-long Apart from big-screen sports and a look at our rock concert listings (p. 16) burgers come on wooden chopping boards - but we would ! Or try an eidgenoss (a Swiss lively crowd, they have a great and go to www.starticket.ch, where you always come back for these burgers. QC-2, Brauerstrasse 15, soldier): half a litre of beer fl ambéed selection of whiskys, gins and tequilas. can check availability and buy tickets. 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 242 30 00, www.thebite.ch. with fruit liquor. Open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Fri 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 -24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. (24 - 33Sfr). A If you’re looking for a At Jules Verne bar (enter through For some people tango or salsa are Niederdorfstrasse, with a restaurant every fi ve steps. nice place for a Brasserie Lipp, Uraniastrasse 9, E-3), synonyms for passion – and something www.juanrubiano.com tête-à-tête, the Mere located in the observatory, you and to share with your signifi cant other. ASIAN Catherine (p. 23) has your beloved can gaze at the roofs of Zurich is no tango or salsa capital, but AMERICAN the right atmosphere. Zurich with an excellent cocktail in you can defi nitely swing a leg here. LILY’S And a very pleasing French-inspired your hand. And let the bar's name-sake Check out the dancing box (p. 36). If IROQUOIS Freshly prepared Asian treats: from Thailand through Couples menu as well. The cheese platter is author inspire you to making some you’re not quite up to scratch, many The burgers here are hearty and have plenty of taste - and, Vietnam to China and Japan, and back to India. Not exactly recommended. mind-boggling, crazy plans (we said places off er courses too. mind, we’re not just talking about the one with the chil- the place for a long, cosy dinner with your friends but great nothing about a wedding). lies. The farmer-style decoration (complete with stuff ed for a quick, fresh and tasty - you’ll be seated on long rabbit), the bright colours and unpolished wooden fl oor benches in between other customers. If you get a seat Didis Frieden (p. 23) isn’t just peaceful With more than two At the Tonhalle you can give the place a cosy feel. And they don’t just do burgers, close to the open you feel the heat when the by name: the carefully appointed hundred diff erent enjoy some excellent but salads and club as well. It’s also a good fl ames some stuff in his wok. Try one of the Lily’s is interior in white, complete with kinds of whiskey classical concerts. The place for a drink among friends. Order one of the many famous for. QC-1, Langstrasse 197, 8Limmatplatz, tel. chandeliers, makes for a very calm ranging from 18 to programme in February cocktails or beers on off er while watching major sports +41 44 440 18 85, www.lilys.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & atmosphere – not to mention the 1500Sfr a glass, an and March includes big events on the TV and the big screen. The Iroquois has a Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:30. (19 - 23Sfr). AS trademark doves. And the food could excellent selection of spirits and symphonic works, chamber music

Highend be heaven-sent too. cocktails and the live piano music, the soirées, Lieder by Schubert and visiting Widder Bar (p. 34) in the old town is from Gent or Montreal (see p. a truly elegant place to spend an 13). evening. As soon as autumn arrives, these little Do you know this one? In Switzerland If you happen to be stands pop up all over town. And they even make their soft drinks from strolling through town in what are they shouting about? It's all milk. But wait, it's no joke! Rivella the middle of March, you about a little paper bag: full of hot, is the Swiss answer to Coca Cola, may encounter some roast ! All over town you’ll you can get it at most shops and alarming, brightly fi nd street vendors selling heissi mar- restaurants and actually it's quite nice. dressed characters with strange faces roni as they’re called. Particularly good Made of milk serum, it doesn't look making a terrible racket. This is fasnacht, Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and Unexpected ones at the beginning of Rennweg. like milk and is supposed to be quite Zurich's carnival. Read our feature (p. 18). night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch healthy too.

20 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 21 Restaurants Restaurants LY’S ASIA MÈRE CATHERINE DECODING THE MENU Ly’s Asia, part of the Prime Tower complex, is actually three Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from restaurants in one: a take away with bar-type seating, a res- Provence using plenty of fi sh, seafood, olives and rose- General terms taurant and a fi ne dining section. We chose the restaurant mary. But she also does other French classics like Käse cheese part in the former industrial hall. The menu ranges from soup or snails. Filled like ravioles and cappelacci, Knoblauch garlic Thailand to Malaysia, Japan and China. Our Gaeng Kiew usually home-made, are also standard features. The paniert breaded green for example was served fast, full of fl avours and interior with uneven walls, dark tables and checkered Pfeff er pepper just as spicy as we like it. In the take away section, there tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny Rahm cream is less choice and dishes are cheaper as orders have to be bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink. Salz salt placed at the bar.QE-4, Zahnradstr. 21, 8Schiff bau, tel. QF-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 250 59 Senf mustard +41 44 999 08 08, www.lys-asia.ch. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00 Kitchen Zucker sugar 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Take away daily 10:00 - open until 14:00 & 17:45 - 22:15. Sat & Sun througout. 23:00. (18 - 48Sfr). AS (25 - 45Sfr). JA Mellow tones set the Mediterranean scene at Mère Catherine. PD Fleisch Meat Braten roast DIDI’S FRIEDEN INTERNATIONAL Bratwurst At Didi’s you get exquisite in a calmly elegant at- Ente duck mosphere. Our evening took off splendidly with the hors TURM d’oeuvres and then continued with the delightful four-course If you are not good at decisions, you will have a time Hackbraten meatloaf menu which is new every month (around 95Sfr). We had mar- choosing at the Caribbean restaurant Turm: the vast menu Kalb (or calf) inated king fi sh as starter followed by a tender piece of veal’s reads almost like a zoo: crocodile, kangaroo, beef, soups, Lamm lamb loin. and hospitality is a vocation here and the choc- salads and quesadillas. The place is heavily decorated with Poulet, Hühnchen chicken olate art-work on the dessert plates is just one of the proofs. plants and palms, contrasting with the old guild house Rind beef Reservation recommended. QF-2, Stampfenbachstrasse it’s located in. Food is good and service fast - usually. The Schnitzel cutlet, often breaded 32, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. +41 44 253 18 10, Turm is hidden in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s Schwein pork www.didisfrieden.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, well known: just ask for directions. QF-3, Obere Zäune Truthahn Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (29 - 54Sfr). JA 19, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43 268 39 40, www.bei-tony.ch. Ghackets mince meat Open 10:00 - 24:00 Non-stop kitchen until 23:30. (29 - A rich Asian interior within European mediaeval walls, at Tao’s. PD JA Geschnetzeltes meat in bite-size pieces NEW 66Sfr). Leber(li) liver TAO’S MAISON MANESSE Some call Tao’s cuisine Eurasian - we don’t bother cat- This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable and Fisch Fish egorising it and just state that the dishes - whether it’s easy-going interior, where the homely white wooden panel- con amore e passione Egli European perch the chilli-coriander or the Tao-te-king burger - are ling sets the mood. The menu created by chefs Fabian Spiquel warm all day Forelle trout defi nitely tasty, though on the pricey side. They serve a hot und Marcello Drovandi changes frequently and features mo- stone grill with chicken or beef teriyaki as well as a lot of lecular cuisine as well as other unusual cooking styles (we had Felchen common whitefi sh seafood and a remarkable lime pie for dessert. Tao’s lies in an onsen egg, cooked 60 minutes at exactly 68 C, giving it a Lachs salmon the middle of the old town and features a bar/lounge and special wax-like consistency). You simply choose as many of an even more exquisite fi ne dining area called Asia on the the dishes as you like - there are a dozen or more available - or Beilagen Side dishes fi rst fl oor. On the weekend you can party after dinner in the go for the 5-dish menu (around 95Sfr). It’s amazing the tastes Aubergine aubergine, egg plant house’s own club Icon - ask your waiter for free entry. QE-4, they create here. And with a very tender steak on the menu, Blumenkohl caulifl ower Augustinergasse 5, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 448 11 22, they also off er some less out-of-the-ordinary options. Recom- Bratkartoff eln roast potatoes www.taos-lounge.ch. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. mended! QHopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede , tel. Brötchen bread roll Kitchen open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (28 - 55Sfr). +41 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 JAX Mühlebachstrasse 2 | CH-8008 Zurich | T +41 44 250 59 30 Erbsen peas - 15:00, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Sun closed. commercio.ch | arthouse.ch Kartoff eln potatoes Nudeln pasta FINE DINING FRENCH Pilze mushrooms RESTAURANT MÈRE CATHERINE Pommes Frites french fries, chips AU PREMIER NEW Spargel asparagus The central location in the main building of the main train LA SOUPIÈRE (HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF) station is just one advantage of the Au Premier. Another is This is fi ne dining as it used to be - with plenty of space, white Spätzli egg noodles the fi ne international food with a Swiss touch they do here. tablecloths and real armchairs. The menu is classic French and Speck bacon We enjoyed the evening menu (choose any three courses, mainly features meat and fi sh with some vegetarian options. Zwiebeln onion 69Sfr): the aspargus soup was delicate, the bison fi let ten- You will not go wrong with the chateaubriand, a tender piece der and the chocolate mousse with ginger a suprisingly of beef fi llet served with the traditional béarnaise and Dessert Desserts good match. The adequate service was a match as well. The sides (served for 2 people) for example. The service is friendly Apfelstrudel apple pie inconspicuous entrance is in the passage from the large and very attentive, on a par with the elegant atmosphere. Q main hall towards Bahnhofstrasse. E-2, Bahnhofplatz You’ll fi nd it inside Hotel Schweizerhof, right next to the main Nägelihof 3, 8001 Zurich (Schokoladen) Kuchen (chocolate) cake 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 217 15 55, train station. QBahnhofplatz 7, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 near the Grossmünster Tiramisu Italian cream dessert www.au-premier.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30. 44 218 88 40, www.hotelschweizerhof.com. Open 11:30 - T +41 44 250 59 40 Bar open 08:00 - 23:30. Sat & Sun closed. JA 14:00, 18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:30 - 23:00, Sun closed. commercio.ch | arthouse.ch

22 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 23 Restaurants Restaurants ORSINI CHEESE RESTAURANTS ITALIAN The Orsini belongs to the Savoy hotel and is a fi ne Italian CASA FERLIN restaurant frequented by many business people spilling Franz Ferlin, in charge at the Casa Ferlin today, belongs to over from the neighbouring fi nancial district. The high SPECIALITA DELLA CASA the fourth generation of Ferlins at this Italian institution, rooms, the wood casing and the mirrors make for an ap- with its time-honoured, classic interior and red-frocked propriate atmosphere. The menu features pasta and many Stampfenbachstrasse 8 waiters. What you absolutely have to try here is the fresh meat and fi sh specialities from Italy like fi llet of john dory 8001 Zurich homemade pasta, especially the ravioli are delicious. Livornese style or veal osobucco with risotto. Good and at the central The menu also features beef and veal, as well as a choice pricey Italian food in a sublime setting.QE-4, Waaggasse 8 T +41 44 250 59 60 of fi sh. If in doubt, go for the veal fi let al limone, another 3, Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 215 25 25, www.savoy commercio.ch|arthouse.ch heavenly Ferlin classic. QF-2, Stampfenbachstrasse -baurenville.ch. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (26 - 38, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. +41 44 362 35 09, 88Sfr). JA www.casaferlin.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat & Sun. (30 - 75Sfr). JAX NEW istockphoto.com OSTERIA LEONARDO COMMERCIO The prosciutti and salume that hang sky-high in four rows The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, origi- While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small behind the bar here are impressive, even though we were nally come from the French speaking areas of Switzer- ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most told that the top rows actually are fake (for quality reasons land. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also that is). The whole interior is made to order here, nicely white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next showcasing the wine and food they sell. Mostly it’s appetiz- bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze ers, but they also do a full daily menu (25Sfr). The mixed which is poured over boiled potatoes. Even though lo- into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, some- platter with diff erent salume and was perfetto (we cals mainly eat these dishes during the cold time of the thing the Commercio has got off to a fi ne art. With a cin- especially loved the spicy one), as was the wine (ripasso) ema ticket from Arthouse cinemas you get a price reduc- we had. Service was very friendly, but not very skilled un- year, we defi nitely recommend trying them whatever Q 8 Q 8 the season - the listed restaurants below are specialists. tion of 10%. G-5, Mühlebachstrasse 2, Stadelhofen, fortunately. B-7, Kalanderplatz 4 (Sihlcity), Sihlcity tel. +41 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 Nord, tel. +41 44 432 24 04, www.osterialeonardo.ch. JA A CHÄSALP - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (18 - 48Sfr). Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun closed. The Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where fondue and raclette are now served in the old stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience, JAPANESE which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well FUJIYA OF JAPAN worth while. It’s usually very busy with tourists and The Fujiya of Japan is all about teppanyaki cuisine: the chef locals, also on Saturdays and Sundays, when they do prepares your food directly at your table on a teppan - a hot YOOJI’S SUSHI DELI a good brunch. While there are 16 diff erent kinds of iron plate. He fries fi sh, prawns, scallops, steaks and veg- SUSHI, SASHIMI, on off er, we recommend sticking to the house etables and serves it with diff erent sauces. The Fujiya of- NOODLE SOUPS & SALADS blend or the classic moitié-moité - we very much fers a variety of menus with 5 to 9 courses (69 - 150Sfr): liked both. They have meat and Swiss style pasta too from salads and soups through to sashimi and sushi and - but remember, it’s the cheese alp not the steak hut. deserts. Teppanyaki lets you enjoy the smell of the fragrant QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. ingredients while the chef cooks them in front of you - defi - nitely a remarkable though quite pricey experience. QD-5, +41 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30 - 8 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (26 - 56Sfr). Tessinerplatz 9, Bahnhof Enge, tel. +41 44 208 15 55, A www.ascot.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (39 - 78Sfr). JA As if mamma was serving! Italian dining at Commercio. PD LE DÉZALEY Since 1974 Pascal Ruhlé and his team have been cook- YOOJI’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE ing dishes from the canton , situated in western COMMIHALLE No matter if you prefer your sushi as a nice dinner at a table, Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to an old Tucked away in a side street behind Central, the Commihalle a quick eat at the bar or to take away: the four Yooji’s are family recipe is defi nitely very tasty and also comes in is a fast, no-fuss local favourite. The menu features all you well known in Zurich for good Japanese food. The one on a version with morels (mushrooms). Or get one of the can expect from an Italian restaurant, and just a little more, Bahnhofstrasse just opened this summer on two stories fondue deals including a starter (like air-dried meat) at very reasonable prices. Most of the pasta is freshly made and works as a self-service restaurant. Grab your sushi and a dessert. Try one of the diff erent sausages of the and you can tell. They also have two all-you-can-eat op- from the display cabinet and take a seat (or take it out) region, be it stuff ed with cabbage or just served plain tions. The spaghetti gala with six diff erent sauces is simple or sit at the bar and pick some more daring compositions with French beans or leek or go for one of the other and very good value (min. 3 people). The tavolata off ers from the conveyor belt. The other Yooji’s all feature table BAHNHOFSTRASSE 102 Swiss dishes. The old part of the restaurant is more that much more: a rich buff et of starters, set meat and pasta service and are located on Bellevue (St. Urbangasse 8), in AM BELLEVUE charming, so try to get a seat there. QF-4, Römergasse dishes for mains and then another buff et for desert. Maybe the Langstrasse district (Josefstrasse 112) and in the Seefeld JOSEFSTRASSE 112 8 take a long walk fi rst? Jazz concerts once a month. QF-2, (Seefeldstrasse 115). QE-2, Bahnhofstrasse 102, 8Bahn- SEEFELDSTRASSE 115 7/9, Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 251 61 29, www.le- 8 dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00. Closed Stampfenbachstrasse 8, Central, tel. +41 44 250 59 hofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 12 25, www.yoojis.com. yoojis.com Sun Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - 50Sfr). JA 60, www.commercio.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 11:00 - 24:00. (17 - 40Sfr). JA JSA

24 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 25 Restaurants Restaurants wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You MEDITERRANEAN will fi nd fi sh, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like STEAK HOUSES CLOUDS geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as well. QF-4, BOHEMIA Well, this is what we call a view! On the top fl oor of the Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. +41 44 251 65 04, Bohemia’s waiters wear ties - and they’re not the only Prime Tower you can overlook the whole city while having www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:30, thing with style around here. The tiled fl oor and the crystal dinner or sipping on a cocktail. By choosing the restaurant, Sat 17:30 - 23:30, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 22:00. chandeliers give the Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere, the bistro bar or the lounge section of the Clouds, you also (28 - 45Sfr). JA drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd. choose the part of the city you’ll be able to gaze onto. In the They now mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on the bistro you can always get something nice to eat, no matter wood-fi re grill. Try their home-made sauces - we loved the what the time of the day. In the restaurant fi ne dining clas- ORIENTAL just slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can sics like beef fi let (with a mediterranean twist) are the ace in LE CÈDRE - BELLEVUE be busy, so if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, try to get a the hole. Or go for the Clouds menu or the vegetarian one This is the city branch of the original Le Cèdre table in the room at the back. QH-5, Klosbachstrasse 2, (3 to 6 courses, 65 - 155Sfr) For the restaurant book a table (Badenerstrasse 78, +41 44 241 42 72), which opened more 8Kreuzplatz, tel. +41 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch. in advance. QK-6, Maagplatz 5, 8Schiff bau, tel. +41 than 15 years ago as one of the fi rst Lebanese restaurants Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu & Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 44 404 30 00, www.clouds.ch. Restaurant open 11:30 - in town. And we can confi rm that it serves the same excel- 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (26 - 69Sfr). A 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:30, Sat lent cuisine that host Maurice Houraibi stands for. On off er 18:30 - 22:30, Sun closed. Bistro 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 are more than 100 diff erent types of mezze (cold and warm GOODMAN - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (Restaurant starters) with all kind of mystic tastes unfamiliar to Western Whether it’s a t-bone, a porterhouse, a striploin or a fi l- 36 - 72Sfr). A tongues. Many of the mezzes are vegetarian. Take a selec- let - at the Goodman in the fi nancial district the steaks all tion of them as a starter or big platter as a main course. come straight from the charcoal grill where they get their There are also lamb, veal, poultry and fi sh dishes. Service genuine smoky taste. And don’t worry if you’re not a meat tends to be a little slow. QF-4, Schiffl ände 5, 8Bellevue, expert, as the waiters bring the diff erent cuts of meat to tel. +41 44 252 83 70, www.libanesisch.ch. Open 09:00 - your table on a display plate and explain all the mysteries. 00:30. (19 - 37Sfr). JA The wooden panelled walls make for a classy atmosphere - Goodman is defi nitely an enrichment for Zurich’s meat lov- Kreuzplatz | 8032 Zürich ers. QD-4, Brandschenkestrasse 20, 8Bahnhof Selnau, SPANISH tel. +41 44 280 18 80, www.goodmanrestaurants.ch. bohemia.ch | T: +41 (0) 44 383 70 60 BODEGA ESPANOLA Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, Sun If you’re looking for no-nonsense Spanish charm in closed. (30 - 70Sfr). JA Zurich the Bodega is the place to head for. After an ‘hola’ from the waiter, choose from the tapas on display at the counter: squid salad, fi gs wrapped in bacon, chicken wings etc. (each 5.60Sfr). A must-try is the excellent tor- tilla. Then take a seat at one of the large tables - a short chat comes easy as you’ll probably be sharing with other DO YOU CRAVE One of the most spectacular views in town: Clouds. PD guests. The waiters will also be pleased to put together a selection of tapas for you. Agree on a maximum price LES HALLES to avoid surprises. For dining in a slightly more classy at- FOR FRESH This garage-style restaurant off ers mostly organic food from mosphere visit the Sala Marisco on the fi rst fl oor. QF-4, around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. Münstergasse 15, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 251 23 10. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are Open 10:00 - 24:00 Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - HOSPITALITY? JA what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. 48Sfr). Enjoyment in a warm and friendly The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your or- A nice sprinkling of mediaeval kitsch and great steaks at King’s ambience. And much more. der at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s ZUM GROBE ERNST Cave. PD always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the Don’t be scared off by the name of this venue (Rude outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a Ernest): host Ernesto is unhurried and comfy rather KING’S CAVE quiet evening with your signifi cant other. There is also a than rude. And recently his descendant Juan Carlos Walk down the stairs from the entrance of the Central BRUNCH delicatessen in the back. QK-6, Pfi ngstweidtsrasse 6, took over. The food they put on the plate is Spanish, Plaza Hotel and dive into the atmosphere of a mediaeval À LA CARTE 8Schiff bau, tel. +41 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. though with visible Swiss and international influences: castle’s cellar: a fi replace, candle holders and richly orna- Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 gambas al ajillo (shrimps in garlic sauce), paella, mented wall-carpets set you some hundred years back in SAT/SUN - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (with oriental cuisine). (20 - pollito flambeado (chicken flambé) or veal chops. As time. The good service and the food quality though defi - 35Sfr). a side dish we recommend nudeln Ernesto (pasta with nitely are from nowadays. The menu features mainly grilled cream and cheese) - no matter if they match your meat. The steaks are all served over a candle arrange- ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS main course, just try them. Sometimes a guitarrero ment, so the meat stays warm and you just help yourself MARCHÉ MÖVENPICK ZÜRICH A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge makes the experience even more Spanish. QF-3, when required. Certainly a good choice for meat lovers 8 Q 8 Beethovenstrasse 32 of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas off ers notable Stüssihofstatt 16, Rathaus, tel. +41 44 251 20 55, and aspiring knights. F-2, Central 1, Central, tel. 8002 Zürich Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere www.zumgrobeernst.ch. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 +41 44 256 55 55, www.central.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, T +41 44 286 54 54 of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - - 00:30, Sat 18:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun Kitchen open 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 17:30 - 24:00. Kitchen open until marche-moevenpick.com/en it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with until 22:45. (48 - 72Sfr). JA 23:30!. (32 - 60Sfr). JA

26 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 27 Restaurants Restaurants have the cheaper pork version, most of the varieties (try NEW gorgonzola!) here are done as they should be - with veal. MILCHBAR BELLEVUE Order some fries, salad, and a grosses, a big beer with it - The Milchbar is the latest venue of the Péclard restaurant What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out and call it a traditional Swiss evening you’re having. QC- group - bringing some of the specialities of their other loca- is heavily infl uenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, 2, Molkenstrasse 20, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 322 tions right to the city centre at Bellevue. For example deep especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cui- 04 34, www.jaegerburg.ch. Open 09:00 - 14:30, 17:30 fried fi sh, so called fi schknusperli (from fi sh caught in Lake sine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue - 00:30, Sat 17:30 - 00:30, Sun closed. (25 - 47Sfr). A Zurich), chicken wings from Fischer’s Fritz or grilled (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine from Coco’s. You sit at long tables and benches and we had to eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but KRONENHALLE wave to the waitress a few times before she realised we were the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is an- The Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top new customers. But it’s all real friendly and laid back here - and other cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes bankers, artists, authors, editors-in-chief and celebrities the food is good. They serve breakfast early in the morning and served with diff erent pickles and sides. Würste or come to the famous brasserie on Bellevueplatz - and mix double as a bar with DJ later at night. QF-5, St. Urbangasse sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually with (well dressed) ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and 4, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 251 55 80, www.milchbar-am veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give -bellevue.ch. Open 06:00 - 24:00, Thu 06:00 - 02:00, Fri Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin JA the brasserie its classic yet old-fashioned look - nothing Markthalle has a pleasantly bustling atmosphere to it. PD 06:00 - late, Sat 09:00 - late, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with has changed in decades. The food (classics: schnitzel with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good, MARKTHALLE MOHRENKOPF fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but pricey, but certainly not as important as the see-and-be- Eat modern Swiss cuisine in Zurich’s only market hall, built This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coff ee and also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also seen. There is a salon for private dinners and a cocktail-bar. underneath a railway overpass (part of the shopping mall Im snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by has an impressive range of to go with the QF-4, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 262 99 00, Viadukt). Start with bread and one of the many spreads (try tourists and locals alike. The menu off ers classics like chalb- cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf) is a favourite www.kronenhalle.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00 Kitchen the tomato pesto!), or a portion of fresh sausages, continue sgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) for Sunday . Fondue chinoise and fondue open until 23:15. (28 - 76Sfr). JAX with some pasta, roast or meat from the grill. And don’t forget as well as more unusual dishes like , an Alpine speciality bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly the market-fresh vegetables. All dishes are served on platters of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popu- in the middle of the table, so you can taste your friends’ orders they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a lar too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of too. And don’t worry if it feels like an earthquake is coming mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and on - it’s just a train passing overhead. QL-6, Limmatstrasse restaurant its name. QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf- then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides. 231, 8Dammweg, tel. +41 44 201 00 60, www.restaurant Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. -markthalle.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Kitchen open Sun - Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A JA SWISS Wed until 22:00, Thu - Sat until 22:30. Kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. (19 - 36Sfr). As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see Swiss cuisine above), we list some traditional restau- rants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 24. We list the tradi- tional Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - defi nitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.

GARTENHOF An honest, straightforward restaurant with no frills what- soever. Their menu off ers solid fare with a little bit of innovation. For the main course there is usually a fi sh, At the Mohrenkopf the interior’s light, but the chocolate is dark. PD a meat or a vegetarian version. There are three red and three white wines sold by the glass - the usually very NEW attentive waiters simply bring the bottle to your table. MARCHÉ MÖVENPICK ZÜRICH You drink as much as you like and pay what you’ve The new Marché is all about grilled meat and fi sh, , and drunk. If only everything in life was as simple! QC-3, locally sourced fresh vegetables and salads. The veal steak we Gartenhofstrasse 1, 8Werd, tel. +41 43 266 63 63, had was really tender and cooked medium as ordered (try Niederdorfstrasse 31 · 8001 Zürich www.gartenhof.net. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, their sauces - e.g Sicilian salsa!) - and we also enjoyed the raw Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00. (26 - 46Sfr). A salad with cashews as a starter. The all open kitchen www.mohrenkopf.info allows you to supervise the preparation yourself. You can sit on NEW high bar stools and tables, we went for the more relaxed leath- JÄGERBURG er benches and had no regrets. That applies to the whole eve- The Jägerburg right on Helvetiaplatz has been a restau- ning actually.QD-5, Beethovenstr. 32, 8Stockerstrasse, rant since 1896. The place therefore has character, and tel. +41 44 286 54 54, www.marche-moevenpick.com. Continuing a tradition since 1981 the fare you get here matches the place: simple, good, Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Thu & Fri 11:00 - 14:00, traditional Swiss food. The house speciality is cordon bleu 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (17 - (schnitzel fi lled with cheese and ham) and while they also 44Sfr). JA

28 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 29 Restaurants Restaurants VELTLINERKELLER QUICK EATS The Veltlinerkeller specialises in traditional Swiss and French - including a couple of extras originating in the HAUS HILTL Veltlin region in the Italian Alps. Be it chateaubriand, zürcher The Hiltl is Zurich’s vegetarian institution par excellence. It’s geschnetzeltes (veal in bite-size pieces) or grilled common simply amazing what they do with purely vegetarian ingre- sole - the chef defi nitely knows his trade. Happily the latest dients - and they’ve been doing it since 1898. Just grab a trends in haven’t made it to the Veltlinerkeller plate and pick from the huge choice of curries, chutneys, sal- - so don’t expect anything fancy, but good ads, tofu and a lot more… Take away and eating in the bar in a homely atmosphere, set by the walls lined with Swiss area is cheaper, while the restaurant area with table service stone pine. QE-4, Schlüsselgasse 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. and à la carte dishes off ers more comfort. In the evening the +41 44 225 40 40, www.veltlinerkeller.ch. Open 11:30 bar doubles as a club. QD-3, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rennweg, - 24:00, Closed Sat & Sun. Kitchen open 11:30 - 13:45, tel. +41 44 227 70 00, www.hiltl.ch. Open 06:00 - 24:00, 18:30 - 21:45. (43 - 63Sfr). JA Thu - Sat 06:00 - late, Sun 08:00 - late. Kitchen 06:00 - Zurich Tourism (MR) 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. (25 - 33Sfr). JAS Not surprisingly, there are plenty of options for a quick BEER HALLS The bounteous buff et at tibits - fully vegetarian! PD TIBITS eat in Zurich, be it a speedy dinner or a snack on a tour BRASSERIE FEDERAL The bounteous vegetarian buff et is the focal point of tibits through the city’s nightlife. The Turkish kebab and its vari- This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100 diff erent Swiss ZEUGHAUSKELLER - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 ations are probably the most popular and can lit- beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside the main train The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is one of Zurich’s biggest home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches erally be found everywhere. If you want something more station. You can try seven at one blow: for 9.90Sfr the waiter beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval arsenal it serves good and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. Situated local, go for a grilled bratwurst or a cervelat (both Swiss will serve you seven beers from the tap in small glasses solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, at the beginning of the Seefeld district, tibits is very popular sausages). Besides that are many Asian take-aways, as well (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served fast: pasta with sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals for lunch, dinner or coff ee with the business people and as the big American burger joints McDonalds’ and Burger minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon and raclette and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get the hipper residents of the area. And yes, it’s all available to King of course. We list some of our favourites for you: cheese. QE-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. to know people, as you share the big tables with other take away too. Newly renovated sister restaurant ‘tibits im +41 44 217 15 15, www.brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 guests. Old military devices standing around are there to NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, +41 44 HITZBERGER JA Q At Hitzberger, the emphasis is on well-balanced fast - 24:00 Kitchen open until 22:30. (19 - 30Sfr). remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, you 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). G-5, might end up getting conscripted. QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 260 32 22, food. chef Eduard Hitzberger created wraps, 8 curries, sandwiches, soups and salads that were meant 28a, Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 220 15 15, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Kitchen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (buff et, 4.20Sfr (take to be healthy and tasty at the same time. We’d say he JA JAS succeeded. The wraps and sandwiches are a treat, you open until 22:15. (19 - 40Sfr). away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). get served fast and the sustainable approach is cer- tainly not wrong.QE-2, ShopVille - RailCity at main train station (main passage close to migros grocery W store), 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. +41 44 212 37 20, www.hitzberger.com. Open 06:15 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:30 - 20:00.

KÖRRY - ART OF WURST At the Körry you get the bratwurst German style - cut in pieces with a lot of ketchup seasoned with curry powder. It’s called currywurst. A good option for a quick snack and an alternative to all the kebab-style fast food on Lang- Q 8 strasse. D-1/M-7, Langstrasse 238, Limmatplatz, The bustle of the big city: Brasserie Federal in the heart of the main tel. +41 79 281 59 00. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 train station. PD - 00:30, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun closed. RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE STERNEN GRILL The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a The city’s most famous sausage barbecue: the brat- place where workers, students, and business men alike go wurst here is tasty, but the mustard is what’s really spe- for the big portions, good prices and traditional down-to- cial: made with horseradish it’s extra hot and fi ery. No earth food - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a matter the weather, the take out on the ground fl oor is rough charm, but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: where Zurich gets its bratwurst. You can also get grilled schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöp- chicken, French fries and on the fi rst fl oor (catch a seat fl i (small ball-shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jum- on the balcony, if you can!) some simple Swiss dishes bo-jumbo cordon bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. - but the bratwurst is what Sternen Grill is all about. But beware: the waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t Q 8 take this piece of meat the size of an elephant’s ear. QF-2, F-5, Theaterstrasse 22, Bellevue, tel. +41 251 8 Niederdorfstrasse 76, Central, tel. +41 44 251 54 64, VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT BAR TAKE AWAY CATERING | SEEFELDSTR. 2 | TIBITS AT THE NZZ BISTRO,

49 49, www.sternengrill.ch. Open 10:30 - 23:45, Fri Insta FALKENSTRASSE 12 | NEXT TO THE OPERA HOUSE, ZURICH | WWW.TIBITS.CH | WWW.TIBITS.CO.UK | & Sat 10:30 - 01:30, Sun 10:30 - 23:00. www.rheinfelder.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 23:15. (12 - 32Sfr). JN

30 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 31 Cafés Nightlife Coff ee and desserts are the main business of cafés in FELIX AM BELLEVUE Zurich's nightlife off ers classy clubs, casual and alterna- especially in summer where the outside seating on Idaplatz Zurich, as you might expect. And many draw on the rich Opened in 2008 the Felix is the new top dog among the cof- tive bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On square is the top scorer. QA-3, Idaplatz 4, tel. +41 43 960 Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there fee places around Bellevue. The spacious interior opulently the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come 08 10, www.lecalvados.ch. Open 16:00 - late, Sat & Sun is no fi xed defi nition of a café, most also serve alcoholic decorated with fl owers, columns and mirrors gives you the to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are 15:00 - late. DJ on Fridays. beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many impression this grand café has been here for decades. Try Niederdorf in the old town, the streets around Langstrasse double as bars in the evening rather than closing. their homemade ice cream or the chocolade (chocolate milk) and Zurich West (see Zurich's districts). There is a lively club NEW Felix is best known for. They serve all kinds of sweets as well as scene - but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping can LUCID (RENAISSANCE ZURICH TOWER HOTEL) CAFÉ DES AMIS breakfasts from fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, The bar of the Renaissance in Zurich West is more than an Not too far from Limmatplatz and still within the reach of a champagne. Elderly ladies love this pricey café for their after- but quite expensive. If you're heading for bars and clubs ordinary hotel bar. It comes in a very modern, enigmatic Zurich visitor, the Café des Amis is a relaxed place for break- noon chat just as much as young, hip girls dropping in for a have some cash handy, as not all venues take credit cards. design, like the sci-fi purple glas pipes on the ceiling, which fast on weekdays or a long brunch on the weekend. It is break from shopping. QF-4, Bellevueplatz 5, 8Bellevue, If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail somehow matches the towerblock the hotel is located in. popular with urbanistas of every age, much in contrary to tel. +41 44 251 80 60, www.felixambellevue.ch. bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our Lean back in one of the huge purple recliners (yes, purple the many venues that tried their luck before at this loca- Open 07:30 - 21:00, Fri 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun listings. is a recurring element here!) to enjoy your classic cocktail. tion. In the evening it’s a venue for chilling with a drink at 09:00 - 20:00. Kitchen open until 21:00. JAK Every Saturday after 21:00 a DJ gets a trendy crowd in danc- the bar. QM-6, Nordstrasse 88, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 ing mood for the nearby clubs. QTurbinenstrasse 20, 43 536 93 81, www.desamis.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat CASUAL BARS 8Technopark, tel. +41 44 630 30 30, www.bar-lucid.ch. 09:00 -24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. NEW Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 08:00 - 02:00. A CENTRAL (BAR) COLLANA The small Central bar now comes painted in blue - except WINGS At the entrance to the new subterranean car park in front the wood panelled walls that is. They major in cocktails The barman wears an airline captain’s uniform, the seats of the opera at Bellevue there is a stylish new café. A huge here and really pay attention to the details. The ice cubes are from a plane and the cocktails have names like Happy window front, stone fl oors and the wooden panels behind for example are huge hand-made balls, not the standard, Landing and Jetlag: welcome aboard the Wings bar. Founded the bar bring a fancy italianità to the place. The coff ee here hollow machine ones. This way they don’t water down your by former Swissair employees after the grounding of the na- is excellent and the food Italian, solid and rather pricey drink so quickly. The spirits for their signature drink Barrel tional airline in 2001, Wings has been up in the air now for (e.g. ravioli 25Sfr). Also on their menu you’ll fi nd the origi- Aged Americano (Martinazzi and Vermouth Rosso) come more than a decade and tenders everything from cocktails to nal pepito, a with a piece of grilled meat (beef, from the Swiss distillery Matter-Luginbühl. They also serve sours, Martinis and fi zzes. Salads, steaks or club sandwiches lamb or chicken), and a secret sauce. It has many excellent sandwiches: pulled pork or choripan originating are also available. Expect a stylish and rather classy crowd - fans and was sold for decades in the Niederdorf. Nice out- from Argentina, a delicicous grilled chorizo sausage in a but even if you’re an economy-class traveller you won’t feel door area. QF-5, Theaterstrasse 9, 8Stadelhofen, tel. They don’t skimp on the decorations at Felix am Bellevue - nor on bun with chimchurri sauce. With the designer chairs the bar out of place. QF-4, Limmatquai 54, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43 +41 44 250 59 10, www.commercio.ch. Open 09:00 - the sweets. PD has perhaps lost some of its cosiness, but the cocktails and 268 40 55, www.wings-lounge.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 24:00. JA SPRÜNGLI the food more than make up for that. QC-3, Ankerstrasse 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s 65, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. +41 44 241 42 24, synonymous with excellent and chocolate. www.cntrl.ch. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri Their café is the place to stop for a coff ee when shopping & Sat 17:00 - 03:00. A CLASSY BARS BREAKFAST on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the fi rst RIVE GAUCHE Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss fl oor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coff ee and choose The Rive Gauche bar attracts a mixed crowd: the guests of families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss break- something sweet from the display cabinet. Try their famed the fi ve-star hotel Baur au Lac in whose premises the bar is fasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a light and airy cream situated mix with the young city crowd. With the dark wood- and is served with , jams, , cheeses or cold fi lling in diff erent fl avours or some of their many variet- en bar, the mirrors on the wall and the living-room-like lamp- . Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - ies of chocolates. Unusually for Switzerland you pay at shades the bar looks classic British with a touch of modernity. the cash desk when leaving.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 21, A good place for cocktails and drinks right in the centre of , maize bread or potato-and-walnut bread to 8 name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli. the city. They have a lovely terrace for balmy summer eve- ch. Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - nings. The Rive Gauche is also a restaurant with good, rather Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are JAK Q also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong 17:30. pricey meat and seafood on the menu. E-4, Talstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. +41 44 220 50 60, www.agauche.ch. roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat fl akes, grated JAK apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic Open 11:30 - 24:00, free Wi-fi . birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t consider break- fast complete without one of the many takes on the YOUR PARTY PORTAL müesli-theme. The impressive bar at Rive Gauche. PD Here come our favourite breakfast places: zuerich.usgang.ch is a web- LE CALVADOS site where you can check out Chäsalp, farmer-style buff et brunch featuring every- With the walls covered in historic photos of sport stars what’s on in town. A simple click on a certain date in thing from meat to fruit, (0.22Sfr per centimeter body and the TVs that are almost always on, it quickly becomes the calendar shows you all the parties and events height, all you can eat), Sat & Sun 10:00 -14:30, see p. 24. obvious - Le Calvados is a sports bar. The TVs mainly show that are on that day. Name of the party, music style Milchbar am Bellevue, hearty hangover breakfast soccer, but other sports like ice hockey and golf too, some- played and location - it’s all there. You’ll understand (Katerzmorge) all week with fried eggs and bacon. Eggs VINO - PASTA - CAFFÈ times even two diff erent events are showing on separate even if you don’t speak German. And don’t forget to go Benedict (poached eggs and bacon on a bagel with Directly on Sechseläutenplatz screens. But with the great selection of beers, cocktails, spir- back to the site the day after partying to see if one of its and some snacks (try the philly cheese steak sandwich!), Hollandaise sauce) on the weekend. See p. 29. T +41 44 250 59 10|commercio.ch|arthouse.ch their photographers caught you in action. Le Calvados is also an option if you’re not that into sports -

32 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 33 Nightlife Nightlife TINA BAR NEW Even though this old-school bar on the fi rst fl oor of the NACHTJÄGER BILLIARDS & BOWLING Brasserie Louis has been gently renovated, it still exudes Alright, this bar is most probably a bit off -track for you. much of the charm of a bar of the good old days. The dark But the genuine Zurich atmosphere between alternative BILLIARDINO wooden bar or the green leather benches are timeless. and casual make the extra travel to this likely future star With 47 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and video- The crowd here is rather well groomed and some look like worthwile (in fact, it’s only three tram stops from Langstras- games Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado in they’ve been regulars for decades - we fi gure they will keep se). There are big wooden tables that will seat you and your the middle of the nightlife district Zurich West. Be- coming, even though considering the new fancy menu, friends comfortably, some of them hidden in pub-style sides the sports there is a bar with pizza and pasta the target crowd seems to be a bit hipper than before booths. The menu off ers all you expect in a bar of this kind: to please your stomach. You’ll fi nd Billiardino behind Q 8 the Abaton multiplex cinema. QK-6, Heinrichstrasse renovations. F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 10, Rudolf-Brun- Swiss beers (Appenzeller), liquors, bitters, shots, some cock- 8 Brücke, tel. +41 44 250 76 86, www.tina-bar.ch. Open tails. And on top of that there’s bar food - for example hot 245, Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 43 960 33 33, 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat dogs Danish-style. QA-2, Badenerstrasse 310, 8Albis- www.billiardino.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. AX riederplatz, tel. +41 43 931 77 90, www.nachtjaeger.ch. 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 Open 17:00 - late, Sat 19:00 - late. Sun, Mon & Tue closed. - 24:00. 24/27Sfr per hr. WIDDER A must for jazz and whiskey lovers who can aff ord their pas- BOWLING WEST sion. For decades some of the world’s best jazz players played DANCE BARS Bowling West is located in Schlieren, just three stops in this old town bar - and in spring and autumn they still do. NEW with the S-train from Zurich’s main train station (S12 Otherwise known for its large single-malt whiskey library: it KAUZ or S3 direction Baden/Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren Widder bar, elegant drinking under the gaze of the ram. PD This is a real gem of a place. The 70s style crystal lamps and cross to the northern side of the tracks and walk fi ve the projections on the walls give it a retro touch, the DJ sits minutes back in the direction where the train came features over 250 diff erent brands starting with Glen Scotia 14 cosily on a sofa, everything is just very smooth here. The revel- from. This bowling centre has 17 lanes and a bar to CASINO relax after some gruelling competition. Booking by years and ending at the other end of the scale with the rare lers are not as young as elsewhere, maybe because they start Q Ardberg 1965 40 years (4cl for 1,500Sfr). Not only whiskey en- the party at 21:00 already. It’s quite a challenge fi nding this phone recommended. Ifangstrasse 8, Schlieren, thusiasts will like the place - the variety of cocktails and spirits underground-style club in a basement though, as there is no tel. +41 44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Open you can have here is remarkable. Let the piano player entertain outside sign at all. So here come the tips: just enter the black 17:00 - 23:30, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, you and relax on the red leather benches. QE-3, Widdergasse door next to the big metal gate with a ‘no parking’ sign on it. Wed & Sun 14:00 - 23:00. 38 - 47Sfr per hour and 6, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 24 11, www.widderhotel.ch. The building is located just next to the bus terminal behind lane. Open 11:30 - 01:30, Thu - Sat 11:30 - 02:30, Sun 11:30 - the main train station. And yes, we think it’s totally worth look- 00:30. AE ing for! QD-1, Ausstellungsstrasse 21, 8Sihlquai/Haupt- bahnhof, www.kauzig.ch. Open Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri & Sat 21:00 - 05:00, admission free before midnight. X LIVE MUSIC VENUES ALTERNATIVE BARS PD DUDA (CABARET VOLTAIRE) Zurich off ers all kind of live music. You will fi nd bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs SWISS CASINOS Walk through the museum shop of the Cabaret Voltaire and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell what Zurich is the city of money, fi nance and banks - and as (where Dada is claimed to have been born) and climb you can usually expect. For their daily programme, check of 2012 it fi nally also has its own casino. The escalator the stairs - and you will be in a small bar with comfy the websites - or fi nd all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. takes you from the rather unassuming entrance to the chairs and tiny wooden tables. The unpainted walls give fi rst fl oor, where the world of glittery lights and prom- it the desired artistic alternative touch - some of the EXIL National and foreign bands from indie rock ised wins takes you in. More than 400 slot machines cheapest beer in town draws students and travellers through folk and rap to electro live on stage al- and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco here. But the venue is well worth a visit even if you are most every night of the week.QK-6, Hardstrasse and texas hold’em poker on two fl oors make this ca- neither. If there is no event in the big hall, you can sit 245, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, tel. +41 43 366 86 84, sino one of the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the there as well. They have 15 diff ferent kinds of absinth Q 8 www.exil.cl. table games set in at as little as 5Sfr - with practically no on the menu. F-3, Spiegelgasse 1, Rathaus, upper limit. At least not in the Private Club, the part of tel. +41 43 268 56 30, www.cabaretvoltaire.ch. LA CATRINA Tuesdays and Thursdays (21:30) there the casino where high stakes can be played. For your Open 12:30 - 24:00, Mon 20:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:30 - are rock and singer/songwriter concerts on the prob- physical well-being there is a bar and a lounge, the lat- 02:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:30. Brilliant booze at Palavrion, it must be club night! usgang.ch ably smallest stage in town. Admission free, voluntary ter with a small stage where on weekends artists such donation. QC-2, Kurzgasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. as look-alike performers off er some entertainment. The KON-TIKI PALAVRION BAR +41 78 771 13 46, www.lacatrina.ch. casino has a smoker’s section with table games and The place for rock and heavy metal fans in Niederdorf. Just reopened after a full renovation, the Palavrion is still slot machines. To get access to this gambling paradise Three bars on two fl oors serve hard drinks for tough guys where the young and the young at heart come for after- ROTE FABRIK This centre of alternative culture fund- you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed, pay and girls. On the ground fl oor the juke box makes you work drinks in the fi nancial district. The new dark green ed by the city has about 100 concerts a year on their 10Sfr entrance fee and have a valid ID card or passport the DJ, but you won‘t fi nd anything soothing. The house leather sofas for two with really high backrests are an eye- variously sized stages. Some bands are well established, with you. And no, your chances of winning are not special is chlöpfti (don‘t try pronouncing that): vodka or catcher. DJs spin the latest party and house tunes to make others known by real insiders only. On Tuesdays often higher, just because the casino is new. QD-3, Gess- tequila mixed with a fi zzy drink in a shot glass and then sure both sexes get in a communicative mood - though Q concerts in the Ziegel oh Lac restaurant. QSeestrasse nerallee 3-5, 8Stauff acher, tel. +41 43 330 30 30, slammed down on the counter so hard they foam over. The there is not really a dance fl oor. D-5, Beethovenstrasse Q 8 395, 8Post Wollishofen, tel. +41 44 485 58 58, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Thu - Sat beer is bottled. Table football. F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 24, 32, Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 44 286 54 54, 8 www.rotefabrik.ch. 11:00 - 05:00. Table games start 14:00. Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 35 77. Open www.palavrion.ch. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 19:00 - 04:00, 17:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:00. E Sun 15:00 - 02:00. Admission free. AK

34 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 35 Nightlife Nightlife THE LION but that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to shake their PUBS This high-end pub combines the features of an English pub booties. The brick-stone industrial building has its charm, ADULT ENTERTAINMENT NELSON with the elegance of a wine bar: sports on fl at-screen TVs, and if you are a youngster or want to see how they party A classic English pub close to the main train station: all the table service, six red and six white wines sold by the glass these days, why not pay the a visit. QK-6, If you are looking for sins of the fl esh, and then important sports events on several screens, some pub food and six beers on tap as well - from the local Hürlimann to Hardstrasse 305, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 44 278 probably you’re male, Zurich off ers what you can ex- and in case you get hungry between your third and Guinness and Kilkenny. They also serve food: classic burg- 25 66, www.escherwyss.com. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. pect of a city of its size. In Switzerland prostitution is fourth pint, party-DJs from Thursday to Saturday and some- ers, wienerschnitzel (breaded veal cutlet) and grilled beef. legal, so in Zurich you can fi nd everything from strip times even a band hits the stage. Drunkenness is rife - as QE-3, Oetenbachgasse 24, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 43 888 bars to brothels. Street prostitution is allowed only in well as fl irting with the opposite sex. QE-3, Beatengasse 66 66, www.candriancatering.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. certain areas - for example at Häringstrasse in Nieder- 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 60 16, Closed Sun. AK dorf and in in the so-called sex boxes (access www.thenelsonpub.com. Open 11:30 - 02:00, Fri 11:30 - by car only). At infamous Sihlquai, street prostitution is 04:30, Sat 15:00 - 04:30, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. E now prohibited. CLUBS Broadly speaking you have two options: most of ADAGIO the strip clubs - which are called nightclubs or cabarets CLASSICAL DANCING In a mediaeval decor with big chandeliers, paintings and - are located in the Niederdorf part of the old town or stonework, the Adagio hosts a slightly older, well-groomed around Langstrasse west of the main train station. What If you think nightlife in Zurich is just drinking and club- crowd. Dress up to party to dance classics, funk, disco and you can expect there are expensive drinks (i.e. 20Sfr for bing, you’re wrong. Besides the many clubs with dif- house music. Expect gentlemen over fi fty hunting for girls a beer) and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a ferent kinds of disco music there are of course places who might well be you, as well as thirty-something couples pole until they are entirely naked. Recently local media Q for classical dancing. Zurich In Your Pocket has the low- who are just having a big night out. E-5, Gotthardstrasse 5, have reported rip-off s in the strip-bar Chilli’s, the vic- 8 down for passionate salsa and tango dancers: we tell Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 44 206 36 66, www.adagio.ch. tims even claiming to have been dazed and then made A Beautiful clubbers at Jade. usgang.ch you where to fi nd an audience and a slippery fl oor. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 - 04:00. Admission 25Sfr. to sign huge credit card bills. The owner denies the re- GONZO ports, the police is investigating. Stay alert. SALSA This small but very tight rock and pop club (sctrictly no Brothels, sex and sauna clubs are generally situ- electro music) is totally worth queuing for. You head down ated in the suburbs or just outside the city. In the city FRIDAYS’ NIGHT @ BANANENREIFEREI some stairs just next to the building and arrive in a cellar, (SALSARICA) you fi nd such establishments around Häringstrasse in where a dance fl oor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded Niederdorf and around Dienerstrasse in the Langstrasse DJ Palmar, Pepe and friends spin all the salsa, bachata smoker’s room waits for some serious rock ‘n roll with you. and merengue classics on a large dance fl oor. QPfi ngst- Q district. 8 Gentlemen, start your engines! C-1, Langstrasse 135, weidstrasse 101, Toni Areal, www.salsarica.ch. 8Helvetiaplatz, www.gonzoclub.ch. Open Wed & Thu As in other places, many prosititutes work because Dancing Fridays from 21:00. More parties on 22:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Admission around they have few other income options or, even worse, Mon & Sat. Admission 15Sfr. 15Sfr, Wed & Thu 22:00 - 24:00 free. because they are forced to. Street prostitutes are par- ticularly likely to be victims of human traffi cking. In the SALSAMANIA (X-TRA CLUB) JADE summer of 2010, several Zurich pimps received prison Big party with two dance fl oors, the main one is sentences for extreme violence against their prostitutes. dedicated to salsa and bachata, the smaller one to Opened in 2009 in a building which used to be a post offi ce, salsa cubana, merengue and reaggaeton. QD-1 / M-7, the fashionable Jade draws a young, rich and beautiful party CALYPSO Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 448 crowd. Have some cash or a credit card handy, as the style The Calypso in the Niederdorf claims to have the only Clubbing like it was in the middle ages? The party’s on at Adagio. here is to order the spirits by the bottle. Girls really do dress 15 00, www.x-tra.ch. Dancing on Thursdays from usgang.ch shower show in town. Apart from that there is the stan- 21:00. Admission 15Sfr (ID required). up (‘tha less tha betta’) and men either show their muscles dard stage with two poles and a huge mirror in the back. DIE ZUKUNFT or their shirt collar - ideally both. The music is mainly house, Opens early.QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, ‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district base- party tunes and electro. On weekdays the Jade is a restaurant tel. +41 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. ment, and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house with meat and fi sh specialities. QD-4, Brandschenkestrasse A TANGO / MILONGAS 8 Open 11:00 - 04:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 04:00. CLUB TANGO ARGENTINO and crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a pas- 25, Brandschenkestrasse, tel. +41 44 202 80 02, sage between two buildings next to the Bar 3000. Getting www.jade.ch. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Admission Fri HAIFISCH (RESTAURANT FALCONE) AK This very classic milonga with DJ’s Anneke and Julio takes past the doormen is sometimes diffi cult, though the policy 25Sfr, Sat 30Sfr. Minimum age 21. The interior here is nice, but really you’re here for place in the hall on the fi rst fl oor of the Falcone restaurant. is not obvious: you just have to fi t to the crowd already in- the girls - they dance on two poles on a sleek stage. side. Once you are in, you will fi nd revellers who don’t tire of PLAZA Sit back and enjoy. Live music! QF-3, Mühlegasse Expect a genuine atmosphere with rather senior dancers. Q 8 QB-4, Birmensdorferstrasse 150, 8Schmiede Wie- partying until the break of dawn. C-2, Dienerstrasse 33, The decades-old cinema in the Plaza building at the west- 3, Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 41 10, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 535 60 13, www.zukunft.cl. ern end of Langstrasse has changed into a big club with www.haifi schbar.ch. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat dikon, tel. +41 44 463 55 25, www.restaurantfalcone.ch. A Dancing on Sundays from 19:30. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri & Sat 24:00 - late. Bar 3000 two dance fl oors (and yes, you can smoke on the smaller 17:00 - 06:00, Sun 18:00 - 04:00. open Wed - Sat 17:00 - late. Admission around 20Sfr, Thu one!). Dj’s play sounds from mash up and r’n’b to disco, TANGO ARGENTINO (NOCHE DE GARUFA) free. X house and other electronic music. The Plaza is popular KING’S CLUB (CLUB SILBANDO) with all kinds of people - a good place to end your bar tour This strip club is located close to Paradeplatz. For more This milonga takes place in the Silbando dance school. NEW around Langstrasse. Often concerts and shows on week- than 25 years girls have been dancing here to cheer up Q 8 the businessmen of the neighbouring fi nancial district. They off er lessons in diff erent styles, but Thursday night it’s ESCHER WYSS days. B-3, Badenerstrasse 109, Bezirksgebäude, tel. Q 8 strictly tango. Warm-up lesson starts 19:30. QFörrlibuck- This is where the youngsters go clubbing, to house, disco, +41 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Club open Thu E-4, Talstrasse 25, Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 8 23 33, www.kingsclub.ch. Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed strasse 62, Förrlibuckstrasse, www.silbando.ch. hip-hop - and though you probably wouldn’t have guessed 22:00, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. Bar open Mon - Sat 17:00 - A Dancing on Thu from 21:00. Admission 13Sfr. - to tracks from the 80s and 90s. Many of the guests here late. Admission around 25Sfr, Thu free before midnight. Sun. defi nitely weren’t born when these songs were in the charts, AEX

36 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 37 Zurich Nord Sightseeing The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and KAI Zurich's largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zurich Nord. The Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi and its natural setting on the other are the city's charms. LAKE ZURICH districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and bar with a modern and stylish decor complete with con- It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are veyor belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, showing international art (see p. 51). Admission to many now home to many international companies, the trade fair, nigiri or uramaki running by. Or simply ask the chef on places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price fol- some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You the other side to make your favourite creation. There are lowed by reduced price, usually the children's price, e.g. defi nitely don’t have to go to the city centre (even though tables as well and a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays. it’s close) to have a good night out. Check out our favourites fried noodles, meat... Saturday night there is all you can below: eat sushi for 59Sfr - book seats in advance. QN-1, Ellen- Widmann-Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 43 538 MAIN SIGHTS 42 47, www.kaibar.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city's sights RESTAURANTS Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Kitchen open until 22:00. represents Zurich best, they'll probably point to the Gross- GIESSEREI (22 - 34Sfr). A münster, its unmistakable double towers making it the The Giesserei (foundry) was abandoned in 1996, then closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Frau- became a squat occupied by artists who started to cook münster complete the trinity of famous churches. Linden- and fi nally reopened the place as a legal restaurant more hof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, than ten years ago. Since then it has made itself a name while the central police station is another unlikely lovely as a fi ne dining restaurant, though the place still looks spot - unless maybe you're escorted there. Its entrance hall Zurich Tourism (BM) like the last workers just left a couple of weeks ago. The is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. menu is simple: every day there are a few diff erent start- But two of Zurich's major attractions are not man-made at The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and ers, main courses and desserts - an international mix all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. a walk along the shores is a must if you’re in Zurich, according to the season and the desires of the kitchen whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue crew. Warmly recommended. QM-2, Birchstrasse and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. +41 43 205 10 10, After a few hundred metres a park with trees and a www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, lawn fi lls the expanse between the lake and the street. Sat 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:30 (brunch). (3 courses The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese be- approx. 40 - 80Sfr). A cause the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing you get to Zürich- horn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and NIGHTLIFE later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The COOPER’S PUB Industrial atmosphere, as if the workers western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in had just left: Giesserei (foundry). PD just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and MAMMA MIA A must see: Giacometti’s radiant murals. Zurich Tourism Enjoy your favourite Italian dishes in the nicely decorated Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you dark wooden fl oor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel reach the Landiwiese, a large fi eld where many cultural to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red interior or on the deck outside. The menu off ers an excel- FRAUMÜNSTER lent choice of traditional Italian fare such as pizza and pasta Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the mag- events take place. If you go just a little further, you can and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and and serve enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the off stream cultural really aff ordable and we have to say delicious burgers - but it also includes daily changing menus and weekly nifi cent stained glass windows in the choir created by specials. The place is full most days of the week, not only French artist Marc Chagall in the early nineteen-seventies, centre Rote Fabrik, red factory, marked by the red brick (13 - 21Sfr). There are also some steak variations, pies factory chimney. and salads on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers! because it’s right next door to the big Swissôtel but also be- or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone Q 8 cause the prices are more than fair. QO-2, Nansenstrasse by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was Schaff hauserstrasse 359, Sternen Oerlikon, tel. 8 LAKE ZURICH CRUISES +41 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 11:30 9, Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 311 83 06, more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means www.mammamia.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:30. women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent (LAKE ZURICH NAVIGATION COMPANY ZSG) - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 02:00, Sat 13:45 - 02:00, Sun 13:45 X The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships - 20:00. K Kitchen open until 22:30. (17 - 39Sfr). whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times in the 16th century. The little archway on on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ROLLI’S STEAKHOUSE the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof) ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, GLEIS 9 the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz- Located in an old brick building, Track 9 is a bar and a A very popular steak house: if you are a meat lover, this was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and is the place to go - beef, pork, lamb, they have it all. But women’s wide hoop skirts had to fi t through here, or else Zürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket restaurant close to the Oerlikon train station. We par- Q covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the ticularly like the separate bar room, but the Swiss lunch don’t forget to book a place in advance. All steaks are a fi ne was due. No visiting during Sunday services. E-4, served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef your- Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus. Open 10:00 - 18:00. whole hog with a roundtrip. In winter there are only a deals like bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad, few roundtrips a day, a four-hour one starting at 13:30. pasta, grilled Italian sandwiches and curries are not self. Which also means there is no one else to blame if your steak is overdone. Steaks come with fries and three GIACOMETTI MURALS The cruises start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to bad either. The evening menu off ers tartar and cordon Bellevue. Tickets and timetables are available at the bleu. And track 9 is one of the few places in town where homemade sauces. The menu features pasta as well - In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Au- Q 8 but come on, who needs pasta if there’s meat? QO-2, gusto Giacometti’s magnifi cent murals (1923 - 1925) adorn port. E-5, Bürkliplatz, Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 you can still smoke indoors, in their smoker’s lounge. 8 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.20- QN-2, Aff olternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 Schaffhauserstrasse 352, Sternen Oerlikon, tel. the vaulted ceiling and the walls. Opening hours are quite +41 44 311 28 80, www.rollis-steakhouse.ch. Open short. QE-3, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahn- 24Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich 43 288 94 44, www.gleis9.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat public transport day cards. & Sun closed. (24 - 30Sfr). AKX 09:00 - 23:30, kitchen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun closed. (30 hofquai/HB. Open 9:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00 Admission - 55Sfr). A free, ID required.

38 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 39 Sightseeing Sightseeing GROSSMÜNSTER and rises steeply with lots of wooden stairs - at the end there ZURICH IN 48 HOURS The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster is even a ladder and a chain to help you climb the fi nal rock. A are Zurich’s landmark and they also off er a great view over bit easier but also steep is the Laternenpfad leading straight AM Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (4/2Sfr admis- into the forest after the fi nal stop - it’s illuminated at night. sion for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Nov You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend - Feb closing time 16:30). According to legend, Felix and Re- good shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter. gula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmün- ster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later MUSEUMS the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and a hint from his horse.QF-4, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helm- the ones we like best. You can fi nd more information in haus. Open 10:00 - 18:00 (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00). English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch. You’re in town for only two days? Too short, of course! Big love: a whale’s heart at Kulturama. PD But here is our Zurich-in-48-hours suggestion. KINDERCITY A science city for kids aged 1 to 12. See page 49. KUNSTHAUS On your fi rst day, start with a stroll through the old Q town, an absolute must for every Zurich visitor. Our Chlirietstrasse12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43 204 30 60, Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection one-hour stroll (p. 44) for instance will take you to all the www.kindercity.ch. with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, main sights like the churches St. Peter, Grossmünster and Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Gia- Fraumünster. After the stroll, walk over to Paradeplatz, KULTURAMA - MUSEUM OF MANKIND cometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard for a coff ee break at café Sprüngli (p. 32), Zurich’s most The enormous wooden bone-come-bench lying in front statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, famous confectioner. Don’t forget to try their trademark of this museum’s entrance is the fi rst clue as to what Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Addi- luxemburgerlis, macaroons in all kinds of fl avours. awaits the visitor here. But it’s more than just bones: one tionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibition sequence shows the evolution of life right up exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Thus fortifi ed, you’re ready for some action before to humans and the fi rst civilisations, the other the cycle Events). English language audioguides available. Café and lunch: take to the lake (p. 39). From Bellevue walk along of human life - with lots of exhibits, not just bones. Good shop on the ground fl oor. QG-4, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunst- the lakeside until you reach the park Chinawiese. To for younger and older children, café on site. QH-4, Eng- haus, tel. +41 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open get back to Bellevue, take the ship (ship stop Casino The view from Lindenhof, across the Limmat 8 to the Grossmünster towers. www.juanrubiano.com lischviertelstrasse 9, Hottingerplatz, tel. +41 44 260 10:00 - 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Ad- to Bürkliplatz). There it’s time for a Zurich-style lunch: 60 44, www.kulturama.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed mission for collection 15/10Sfr, for exhibitions 22/17Sfr, have the city’s most famous bratwurst (veal sausage) at LINDENHOF Mon. Admission 10/7Sfr. combined ticket 25/18Sfr. Sternen Grill (p. 30). Now how about some culture? The This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s centre used to Kunsthaus (p. 41) with its excellent collection of mod- be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and ern art is a good choice. later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in Feeling excited? Your only dinner in town is coming the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the up! For hearty Swiss fare like zürcher geschnetzeltes in a right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the down-to-earth atmosphere, try Zeughauskeller (p. 31) square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty or Rheinfelder Bierhalle (p. 30) or simply take a few min- and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the utes to read through our restaurant chapter and choose back of the square. QE-3, 8Rathaus. something that suits your taste. For an after-dinner drink, move over to the vibrant Langstrasse area with its UETLIBERG Titlis – Eternal Snow and Glaciers countless bars: try Central (p. 33) for example. You prefer The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the more class? Try the Rive Gauche (p. 33) in the centre. end of the mountain chain on the western side of Lake We show you the BEST… On your second day you’ll have to climb a mountain. Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 Or at least ride up it. Take the S10 train from the main metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top bring- station to Uetliberg (p. 40), Zurich’s own little mountain. ing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and off ering a stunning Up on top climb the lookout tower for an incredible view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain view towards the Alps and the city. You can get back is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train the same way or hike down to a halfway train stop - or (S 10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour let your feet take you all the way down. (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional In the afternoon a visit of Giacometti’s murals is on the ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich, because the Uet- Zürich City-Tours Excursion Rigi – Queen of the Mountains Pilatus – Golden Roundtrip schedule (p. 39). They are something like Zurich’s secret liberg is not within the city zone 110 (buy a 1 - 2 additional main sight, located right in the entrance hall of the po- zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal and a lot more of beautiful Switzerland! station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the look- lice headquarters. After taking in their warm colours, you Information & Bookings: might be ready for a small shopping tour on renowned out tower (free access) and a restaurant. You can also walk up Bahnhofstrasse (for shopping see p. 50). Alternatively from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albis- relax on a bench in the nearby old botanical garden güetli and get off at the last stop. From there two diff erent www.switzerland-tours.ch - and invent an excuse for your boss, so you can stay paths lead to the top, both taking about an hour. To follow [email protected] another day. the Denzlerweg, walk at fi rst towards the restaurant Kolben- Phone: +41 (0)44 710 50 50 hof (follow the signs). After that, the path goes into the forest

40 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 41 Sightseeing Sightseeing MUSEUM RIETBERG tram N°2 and N°4 going direction Tiefenbrunnen.QSeefeld- in the city centre with many grand old trees and a medi- CONTEMPORARY An internationally recognised collection of art from Asia, strasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. +41 43 499 24 40, aeval herb garden in memory of the famous Swiss scientist ARCHITECTURE Africa and the Americas is on show at the Rietberg Muse- www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 Conrad Gesner (1516 - 1565). QD-4, Pelikanstrasse 40, um, in permanent and temporary exhibitions. As of 2013, - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/8/4Sfr, families 20Sfr. 8Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 44 634 84 61, www.bguz.uzh.ch. Open the Meiyintang collection of Chinese ceramic art has been 07:00 - 19:00 (Oct - March 08:00 - 18:00). Admission free. added to this, in an all new interior, making the Rietberg perhaps the top address for Chinese art in Europe. The mu- GARDENS & PARKS seum is housed in several period villas and pavillons, all set ALTER BOTANISCHER GARTEN in Rieterpark, a park which is worth a visit in itself.QC-7, Zurich’s former botanical garden lies on an old bastion, the Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. +41 44 206 Bollwerk zur Katz, tucked into a curve of the old moat, the 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed & Thu so-called Schanzengraben, which was part of the city’s for- 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 18/14Sfr for the tifi cation in mediaeval times. The oper- exhibitions and the permanent collection, free for chil- ated its botanical gardens here until 1976, before moving to dren up to 16. for more space. The garden is now a pretty park The rather harsh ‘Neue Einfachheit’ (new simplicity) is the style which was most readily associated with Swiss NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) SIGHTSEEING TOURS architecture in recent decades. In the last fi fteen years, It will take you a while to get through the permanent ex- architects in Zurich have shaken off the austerity and a hibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to ac- BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR cumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret number of architectural jewels have been built in Zu- A city tour in an air-conditioned coach - including a Villa Patumbah, radiant with 19th-century opulence. PD rich. Here is our little selection. bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of old short stroll through the old town and a ride with the things. There are four thematic areas: the fi rst section shows VILLA & PARK PATUMBAH KRAFTWERK 1 Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the resi- the history of migration and settlement, the second exam- Smoking does have its advantages. This opulent villa was Architects: Bünzli/Courvoisier and Stücheli Architekten dential area Zürichberg. In little more than two hours ines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated fi nanced by smokers - it was built by Carl Fürchtegott Grob Kraftwerk 1 – literally ‘power plant 1’ – was built by a you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the fi nancial district, to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses who made his huge fortune with tobacco plantations in cooperative founded in the 1990s with the aim of ex- the old guild houses and the universities. There is a on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are South-East Asia. For his home in Zurich he hired architects perimenting with new types of living arrangements. live commentary in English and German, audioguides available. The armour tower displays arms of national and Chiodera and Tschudy in the 1880s and provided them with Completed in 2000, the fl ats range between 2 and 13 in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese available. international importance. Besides that there are temporary Q 8 an almost infi nite budget. The result was a magnifi cent villa rooms in size, making it possible for up to 15 people to E-1, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, Sihlquai / HB, tel. exhibitions on changing topics (see Culture & Events sec- with an explosion of styles - Baroque, Gothic and Italian share a fl at and to organise their lives in ways beyond +41 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts tion of this guide). English-language guided tour through Renaissance blend organically with ornamental elements the traditional family.QHardturmstrasse 261 - 269, daily 13:00 at the bus terminal Sihlquai next to the the permanent collection every Tue at 11:00. QE-2, from East Asia. After long years of neglect, the villa has been get tram N°17 to Bernoulli-Häuser. 8 main train station. Tickets available on the spot, res- Museumstrasse 2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 ervation by phone recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr. painstakingly restored and is now home of the Swiss Heri- RIFF RAFF 65 11, www.musee-suisse.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu tage Society (www.heimatschutzzentrum.ch) and partly Architects: Meili, Peter and Staufer & Hasler 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr. open to the public, as is the English landscape garden sur- The cinema Riff Raff was one of the pioneers on then STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK Q 8 A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk rounding it. I-7, Zolllikerstrasse 128, Fröhlichstrasse. seedy Langstrasse in the 1990s. Successful despite not From Oct - March park open 06:00 - 18:45, villa (incl. showing the blockbusters, they decided to expand and through the old town of Zurich. Discover the city’s his- tory and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and architectural history exhibition) open 14:00 - 17:00, Thu erected this building which houses two cinema thea- & Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Mon & Tue closed. Public tour incl. tres and fl ats above. On the ground fl oor the popular German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks ask a visit to the second level of the villa every Thu 12:30. bar is partly lit by the redirected beam of the fi lm pro- Admission to the villa 10/5Sfr, park free. jector below. Meili, Peter architects are also responsi- at the tourist information at the main station. Reserva- tion by phone recommended. QE-2, Tourist Offi ce ble for the refurbishment of the platform roofs of the 8 main train station.QL-7, Neugasse 57, get bus N°32 Main Train Station, Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 215 CHURCHES to Rönt genstrasse. 40 88, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the tourist offi ce at the main railway station. Wed & Sun 11:00. Sat 11:00 See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the LIBRARY OF THE LAW INSTITUTE (RWI) & 15:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zurich Card. churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. Architect: Santiago Calatrava Valls In a quest to create more space for the university with- ZURICH TROLLEY EXPERIENCE ST. PETER out acquiring any new land, the Spanish architect who Ride around Zurich in a coach fi tted out as a vintage St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on is based in Zurich added two stories in steel and glass trolley bus - the likes of which Zurich’s history has never all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The to this 1909 building. He also roofed the inner court- seen. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The fi rst mayor of Zurich, yard and set into it a series of elliptic steel balconies fi n- Textile arts from North America at the Nonam museum. PD city showing you the fi nancial district, Bahnhofstrasse ished in wood, gaining even more space. From the bot- and a part of the old town including the churches Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb tom fl oor where one enters, this construction appears NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter. Commentary stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The as an immense wooden sculpture (see photo above). The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Mu- is provided over headsets in eight languages (English, nave of the church was fi nished in 1706, while the choir Apart from the library, completed in 2004, Calatrava is seum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem French, German, Italian, Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in also the creative spirit behind Stadelhofen train station poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibi- Q 8 1230. This was the fi rst church in Zurich that was built as Q Spanish) E-1, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, Sihlquai / (1984 - 1990). G-3, Rämistrasse 74, get tram N°5 or tions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives HB, tel. +41 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation. Don’t 9 to Kantonsschule. Library open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat of North America and show the various ways the Inuit, In- miss the unfortunately partly faded mediaeval murals in 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on Q 8 08:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. dian and Métis groups lived from the arctic north to the the spot, reservation by phone recommended. the choir. E-4, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, Paradeplatz. Open deserts in the southwest. Good for children. Get there with 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

42 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 43 Old-town stroll Winter joys at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main In winter, Zurich is often covered by a thick layer of HAMAM MÜNSTERGASSE throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf (see page 11), the high-altitude fog. That doesn’t sound very pleasant, but This Hamam, a turkish style steam bath, is perfect if you and other part of the old town. On the right is Cabaret Vol- in fact fog is way better than clouds in Switzerland as all your body need a break. In about two hours you will pass taire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o you have to do in this case to get some sun is to climb a through diff erent rooms and clean your body with steam, falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. nearby mountain. Or even better: ski it. There are many re- rub your skin with a peeling glove and purge yourself - you sorts so close to Zurich that it’s worth going to one just for do get to rest in between the diff erent steps. Finish off with A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is the day. Always check the conditions before you leave. The an oil or foam massage or one of the other treatments Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at Swiss Federal Railways SBB off er combined tickets (includ- available. QF-4, Blaufahnenstrasse 3, tel. +41 44 259 81 least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach cof- ing train and bus travel and the lift pass) to many of these 82, www.fi tnesspark.ch. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat & Sun fee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick resorts, see box on p. 47. But of course the city off ers some 09:00 - 20:00, last admission 2hours before closing time. your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you winter fun too - fi nd our suggestions below. 43Sfr, treatments additionally. pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas. NEW LABO SPA A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque You really need to relax? Then this might be just the thing for - style abbey, the somewhat austere Grossmünster you. At Labo Spa they off er a full range of massages, aroma with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic therapies, peelings, purifying and relaxation treatments spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, including some things we didn’t even know existed. They Spiegelgasse in mediaeval Niederdorf. zuerichfoto.ch the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful also do so-called rituals, including some for two. For some Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the quality time with your loved one try e.g. the ‘Be my Valentine’, Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the River steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the a relaxing bath ritual followed by an aromatherapy massage. Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river Depilation and waxing is also available. Check website for heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. and then cross the bridge to Fraumünster (see page 39) all the treatments and book in advance by phone. And We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s fi rst mayor, to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. remember: relaxation doesn’t come for free. QD-3, Talacker Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old 41, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 43 497 34 40, www.labospa.ch. Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down town now and can fi nish off with one of Zurich’s other ma- Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat & Sun 09:30 - 19:30. Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s jor attractions - the lake - which is just fi ve minutes’ walk south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, further along the river. Cheese-dunkin’ fun! Eating fondue on the fondue ship. PD head down the steps to the metal walkway leading up- THERMAL BATHS stream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri- WINTER ACTIVITIES Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (), with some THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and IN THE CITY Zurich’s fi rst thermal bath is located in the buildings the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed FONDUE SHIP that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in and well worth a quick stop, on the left. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening at 19:00 the Fondue Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold Ship sets off for a 2.5 hour round trip on Lake Zurich. On for drinking as Aqui. There are diff erent pools, some Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to Lindenhof (see Tuesday the Swiss cheese fondue is served, on of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor page 40), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left Thursday fondue chinoise (meat) is on the menu. Dinner area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of while cruising on the lake with a view of Zurich by night - city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, mas- Q 8 Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here not bad at all. E-5, Bürkliplatz, Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 sage jets and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman Spa and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Starts Tue and Thu 19:00 at area with ten diff erent stations like a peeling niche or Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who Bürkliplatz, book in advance by phone. Tickets 55/27.50 herbal steam for complete relaxation (extra fee applies). are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leav- (cheese), 75/37.50Sfr (meat). QC-5, Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waff enplatz- ing Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down strasse, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open 09:00 - Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which FONDUE TRAM 22:00. Admission 32/16Sfr, children up to 6 years free. mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall. A Swiss fondue (melted cheese in a pot) including an THERMALBAD ZURZACH evening city tour - that’s what you get in the decorated Enjoy the warm water of the thermal spring in Bad Zurzach Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see page fondue tram. Board the tram at Bellevue and enjoy your (when it reaches the surface it’s 39.5°C) in four pools 43), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most dinner during a two-hour trip through the city - wherever with diff erent temperatures and a surface of more than peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the the tram rails lead. The menu includes a welcome drink, a 1,200sqm. There are muscle-loosening massage jets, a alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the starter plate with dried meat from the Grison Alps, and as river-like stream pool with a waterfall and in the evening second bridge, Rathausbrücke, also known as the veg- much fondue as you like. Have a glass of white wine with one pool is lit by special LED-lights. The warm mineral- etable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held it - or two. You can clean the steamed-up windows with ized water is said to boost your blood circulation and to here on Saturdays. a special wiper so you can enjoy the sightseeing part too. be good against rheumatism. The journey to Bad Zurzach Book your table in advance online, by phone or at the VBZ from Zurich takes 50 minutes by train (twice an hour, On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the ticketerias, the Zurich public transport ticket shops. QF-5, Q 8 change train in Baden). Dr. Martin Erb Strasse, Bad town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Bellevue, tel. +41 848 80 18 80, www.fonduetram.ch. Zurzach, tel. +41 56 265 28 28, www.badzurzach.info. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the Runs until March 15, 2014. In February & March: Wed - Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:30. tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where Sat 17:30 & 20:15, on Sun 16:30 & 19:15. Tickets 93/47Sfr Admission 19/14/7Sfr. you’ll fi nd one of Zurich’s prettiest fl ower shops. Turn right (children up to 12 years), drinks extra.

44 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 45 Winter joys Winter joys SAUNA SEEBAD ENGE ELM mountains Jungfrau and Mönch, both towering over 4000 This is no ordinary city sauna - at Seebad Enge the sauna is In a little less than two hours, public transport gets you to metres asl. Up here, there is a path through the snow you SNOW’N’RAIL located on a platform fl oating on Lake Zurich. So when it’s Elm, deep in the mountains of the canton Glarus. Six lifts can take and several viewing platforms, a lift takes you up time to cool off , you can step out onto the pier and jump and more than 40 kilometres of slopes await you there, as to the top one called sphinx. From there you have a heart- A good way to get to the snow is public transport. The into the lake. There are three saunas, one only for women, well as a kids zone, a sledge run and a snowpark. Elm is also stopping view over the Aletsch glacier, probably the most Swiss Federal Railways SBB have special combined and two resting rooms. Massages and other treatments known as a good spot for freeriding. And it’s the home of impressive glacier of the Alps. In the 1930s mountaineers off ers for many of the listed resorts. It’s around 20% are available and there is a café too. A very pleasant op- the probably most famous Swiss ski star of all times, Vreni began to cut tunnels and halls into the eternal ice - the cheaper if you book the train/bus ticket and the ski tion for spending a cold winter evening in Zurich. QD-6, Schneider. She collected 3 Olympic gold medals in the 80s so-called Eispalast was born, which now extends over pass together. Ask for the Snow’n’Rail tickets at the Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. +41 44 201 38 89, and 90s. Nowadays she runs a skiing school in Elm, so watch 1000sqm. You certainly should take a walk through it. Many counters in the big hall of the main train station - they www.tonttu.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. out, she might swing down the hill just in front of you. consider a visit to Switzerland incomplete without a visit will print the time table for your journey as well. Mon women only (all three saunas), Sun only mixed, QElm, tel. +41 55 642 60 60, www.sportbahnenelm.ch. to the Jungfraujoch. The ride up there is impressive too - otherwise mixed/women. Admission 27Sfr. Daypass 48/36/24Sfr. and quite expensive. From Zurich, take a train to there a bus takes you to Stechelberg valley station (ap- (change at ), then one to Lauterbrunnen, from there prox. 3 hours all in all). QSchilthornbahn, Mürren, tel. ENGELBERG - TITLIS ROTAIR another one to Kleine Scheidegg, where you board the +41 33 856 21 41, www.schilthorn.ch. Cable car runs Engelberg is the biggest resort in central Switzerland. Its fi nal cogwheel train that takes you up to the top (mostly daily , fi rst ascent 07:25, last descent 17:03. Return fare top attraction is Mount Titlis: a rotating gondola takes you through tunnels, but with spectacular views at the stop from Stechelberg 98.60/49.30Sfr. up to more than 3,000 metres above sea level. There you Eigergletscher). Duration from Zurich 4:20. QKleine Schei- get a spectacular view, a glacier and some steep slopes degg, tel. +41 33 828 72 33, www.jungfrau.ch. Runs all STOOS that lead back down to the village of Engelberg, 2,000 me- year, fi rst ascent to Jungfraujoch 07:40, last one 16:19, Just 75 minutes from Zurich, the small village of Stoos tres below. Besides Mount Titlis there are 82 kilometres of return ticket from Lauterbrunnen 176.20Sfr. off ers seven lifts and stunning views over Lake Lucerne slopes suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers, from the top of the Fronalpstock. Stoos is only acces- snow trekking paths and cross country ski runs. Several sible by cable railway or aerial cable car. From the town shops have gear for rent. The train ride from Zurich takes of Schwyz take a bus to the Schlatti valley station and just under two hours (change at Luzern). QPoststrasse 3, enjoy the short ride up to the village, where you’ll fi nd Engelberg, tel. +41 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. Day pass several rental shops. This small resort is great for fami- 62/43/25Sfr. lies. If you don’t ski, take a ride in a horse-drawn car- riage (contact Suter Transporte, tel. +41 79 455 66 JUNGFRAUJOCH - TOP OF EUROPE 24). QStoos, tel. +41 41 818 08 08, www.stoos.ch. Ice skating at the Dolder. PD The Jungfraujoch is as high as you can get by train, and Day pass (including feeder cable railway) 49/30Sfr. certainly one of Switzerland’s best known mountain des- SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN) tinations. The top station is 3471 metres asl and is said Surrounded by woods up above Zurich the Dolder out- to be Europe’s highest train station. The stop is not actu- door skating rink is a great little getaway. Getting there is ally on a peak but rather on a pass in between the famous a little adventure too. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15 to Römerhof and then get the little red Dolderbahn, a cogwheel rail- way, up to the last station (6 min). Self-service restaurant on site. QAdlisbergstrasse 36, 8Römerhof, tel. +41 44 MOUNTAIN TOURS 267 70 80, www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open until March BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS 10, 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:45. The rink is closed on Day trips organised by tour Wed from 17:45 to 19:15. Admission 8/6/4Sfr. Renting operators are an easy way a pair of ice skates: 7Sfr. Family ticket including skates to explore Switzerland Sunshine in Stoos, high above the winter fog! PD rental: 40Sfr. and its gorgeous moun- tains. Forget the hassle SCHILTHORN - PIZ GLORIA with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle On the Schilthorn, at almost 3000 metres a.s.l. you get an SKI RESORTS & DAY TRIPS exhilarating view of the highest and most famous trinity INTO THE SNOW into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example off ers daily of the Bernese alps, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (weather NEW trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. permitting!). The top station features the revolving Piz AMDEN For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Gloria restaurant which turns full circle in about 55 min- This easily reachable resort (75 minutes from Zurich) is nice Titlis (more than 3000 metres a.s.l.), where an encoun- utes. The station was the setting for the 1968 James Bond for beginners and kids. Located high above Lake Walensee, ter with ice, snow and a glacier await you, including fi lm On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The interactive exhibi- you’ll fi nd 6 lifts, the highest one taking you up to just over sledging on snow tubes if you like. Some of the tours tion Bond World 007 will remind you of all the great mo- 1600 metres a.s.l. Slopes are not very steep, especially in are only available in summer, some all year round. They ments in the fi lm. Getting up there is quite an exciting the Arvenbüel part of the resort. There is a skiing school, a also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website adventure: from Stechelberg four sections of cable cars sledge run, cross country skiing and some trails for walks. take you up to the peak in just over 30 minutes. It is pos- SKYLINE VIEW for available tours and book up to a day before - online PIZ GLORIA A handful of restaurants make sure you will not starve. This or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus sible to ski down from the top, but only for experienced is a cosy skiing experience not far from Zurich. Take a train skiers. However the region around Mürren off ers many Q terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main to Ziegelbrücke, there catch the bus to Amden. Sport- train station), close to track 18.Qwww.switzerland skiing opportunities for less accomplished skiers too. www.schilthorn.ch bahnen Amden, tel. +41 55 611 12 75, www.amden -tours.ch, tel. +41 44 710 50 50. From Zurich, take a train to Interlaken (change in Bern), BOND WORLD -weesen.ch. Daypass 35/22Sfr. at Interlaken change to the one to Lauterbrunnen. From

46 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 47 Zurich for kids Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how ZURICH ZOO KINDERCITY to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The Kindercity is a science city for children aged 1 to 12, much SHOPS may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to pride of this zoological garden which was opened in 1929 is more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last do with children in Zurich. the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the do bungee-jumping in a museum? Diff erent so-called If you’re looking for toys or children’s clothes check out Masoala National park in Madagascar on some 10,000sqm. knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human these shops: MUSEUMS & ZOOS Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around body, renewable energy or modern communication, using ALKENA in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover, The small shop near Bellevue has a good selection If you’re looking for places to learn and discover stuff , try forest. Keep your eyes peeled, probably a chameleon is sit- accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play of high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes made these suggestions. ting on a branch right next to you. But the rainforest is not the areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof of organic textiles. They also sell women’s clothes, only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually for under-aged drivers. From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 so mum might fi nd something she likes too.QF-5, been changing the traditional-style enclosures into whole (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach to bus Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 261 ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs, e.g. an In- N°725, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes). Q 66 00. Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:30, Sat dian dry forest for the lions or Himalaya mountains for snow Chlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43 204 30 60, 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. leopards, wolves, and Siberian tigers. QJ-1, Zürichberg- www.kindercity.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass 8 strasse 221, Zoo, tel. +41 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. (cinema and knowledge lanes) 27.50Sfr., activities can FRANZ CARL WEBER Open 09:00 - 18:00 (Nov - Feb 09:00 - 17:00). Masoala hall also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 14.50Sfr Never-ending toy shop on four fl oors with virtually any- opens at 10:00. Admission 22/16 (16 - 25 years)/11Sfr. (17.50 adults). thing you might be looking for, includes books and a pizzeria. QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 62, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, PARKS & SPORTS Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next LOTTI’S WELT to Lindenhof (p. 40, E-3) and there is a large one next to A delightful little shop full of imaginative, colourful If it’s below 8 C, the penguins come out for a walk things for children. Whether it’s dresses, bibs, nappy at Zurich Zoo (13:30). PD the Chinese garden (G-7). The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community centres of the city also have good playgrounds. bags, hats or toys - they’re all made with lots of love by local designers. QC-6, Waff enplatzstrasse 49, ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL 8 MUSEUMS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH GEMEINSCHAFTSZENTREN Waff enplatzstrasse, tel. +41 43 344 51 71, A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but (COMMUNITY CENTRES) www.lottiswelt.ch. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 18:00, luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke it. The 17 community centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Animals large and small are displayed stuff ed or as skel- are co-funded by the city. They function as a meeting point etons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll for the residents of a district and can be visited by anyone be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. The pale- for free. They usually have a playground for kids and a little Hands-on fun for the youngest at Kindercity. PD ontological section features marine dinosaurs from when café-bar, many off er organised activities and some even WELCOME TO THE MOST Q Switzerland was covered by an ocean, as well as giant am- have some farm animals to watch and stroke. tel. +41 43 SKATING RINK HEURIED FAMOUS PARADISE OF TOYS monite fossils, land dinosaurs like triceratops and skeletons 300 60 00, www.gz-zh.ch. Enjoy ice skating on two large rinks close to the tram stop FOR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881. of woolly mammoths. Children love the animals, but if they Heuried (N°9 &14 direction Triemli/Heuried). You can also tire of that there’s a sandpit where they can do their own Here we list some cool and more central ones, see play a game of ice hockey - just for fun - on the following bit of excavation or giant animal puzzles. Unfortunately all www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. They are usually open 10:00 days: Thu 20:15 - 22:00, Fri 20:00 - 21:30, Sat 19:15 - 21:30, texts are in German, but we have found that isn’t a problem - 18:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 on the weekend: Sun 17:15 - 19:00. There is a restaurant and skate rental for children and even for adults it’s a fascinating cabinet of on site. QWasserschöpfi 71, 8Heuried, tel. +41 44 wonders. No café, but a rest area where you can eat your • GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, +41 44 365 24 40 455 51 61. Open Mon 09:00 - 17:45, Tue 09:00 - 19:00, own food. QG-3, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/Uni- • GZ (on the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, Wed 09:00 - 22:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:30 versitätsspital, tel. +41 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. +41 44 276 82 80 & 20:00 - 21:30, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed. • GZ Wollishofen (on the lake), Bachstrasse 70, Until March 16. Admission 7/5/3.50Sfr, rental skates Admission free. +41 43 243 11 37 6Sfr.

RESTAURANTS PIZZA PASTA CIAO! Playfully discover science This restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sit- The most exciting Swiss Family-Center ter. So you can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to the espresso and be sure your kids are having fun too. Play with science (from babies to adults) The menu features everything that comes to your mind The ‘factory‘ (Chocolate, Labor, cooking, cars, creative) when you think Italy: from home-made pasta to pizza to Outdoor area with driving school meat like fi letto di manzo (beef fi let). Needless to say the Themed restaurant and Edustore place is popular with families - and not just Italian ones. Factory Q 8 From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year I-5, Asylstrase 125, Klusplatz, tel. +41 43 499 07 12, Reservation BahnhofstrasseSpielsachen, 62,die 8001 Träume Zürich, versüssen. www.fcw.ch 043 204 30 60 www.pizzapastaciao.ch. Open 10:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH | www.kindercity.ch 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00.

48 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 49 Shopping Shopping Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai not quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhof- and Niederdorf streets - both pedestrian areas - you will ART MARKET strasse is well known around the globe as one of the most fi nd smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For and fashion stores. If you’re looking to buy art - or just take a peek at Swiss and urban design, the area around Langstrasse is a what others are buying - Zurich won’t let you down. good spot - check out our special. In the way of shopping Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse The city is arguably the centre of Switzerland’s art malls, Switzerland can’t match other European countries and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to miss. market, and indeed a reference point for the Euro- where huge centres are the order of the day. But maybe Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example with its pean art market. Many art auctioneers are located in that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchen- Zurich - besides the well-known international houses reachable mall opened in 2007, is an example of an innova- gasse with its luxury designer stores. Sotheby’s (Talstrasse 83, D-3) and Christie’s (Stein- tive development - without being a giant. The malls and wiesstrasse 26, G-4) you’ll fi nd local fi rms like Koller best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with (Hardturmstrasse 102) or Germann (Stockerstrasse 38, other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are closed on BOOKS & MUSIC D-4), where remarkable pieces change hands regular- Sundays except at the railway stations. ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP ly. Art galleries are equally abundant in Zurich and are Worth it just for the mirror: boutique Roma. PD Zurich‘s biggest English-language bookshop: over an excellent place to see contemporary international 40,000 fictional and non-fictional books, magazines, and Swiss art. audio books and DVDs on three floors - and all in Eng- FASHION lish. There is a strong children‘s section with a children’s BOUTIQUE ROMA reading every first Saturday of the month. QE-3, Bahn- Roma is the boutique for clothing by international avant- ART GALLERIES hofstrasse 70, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 04 44, garde designers like Rick Owens, Dries van Noten und Ann GALERIE GMURZYNSKA A major gallery spe- www.books.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Demeulemeester. They feature men’s and women’s wear cialising in Russian avantgarde, modern and classic Closed Sun. and take pride in traditional handicraft and exquisite mate- contemporary art. Recently it showed pop art classics Q 8 with pieces by artists such as Andy Warhol and Robert rials. E-3, Pelikanstrasse 6/8, Rennweg, tel. +41 44 Q 8 REC REC 222 18 80, www.boutique-roma.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Indiana. E-4, Paradeplatz 2, Paradeplatz, tel. The Recommended Records store has all the rock music Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. +41 44 226 70 70, www.gmurzynska.com. Open you have been looking for and plenty you haven’t heard 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. of yet in store - and its been going for 30 years now. There NEW isn’t just rock, but everything from classic to jazz, ambient, CASHMERE LOVERS KARMA INTERNATIONAL Focusing on contem- Paradeplatz, where boutiques and banks abound. www.juanrubiano.com electronica, ethno and world music - a true jewel, this store. Intricate knitting patterns, careful details and lovely colours porary and conceptual art, Karma shows Swiss and The main shopping areas are: QC-2, Rotwandstrasse 64, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 make the cashmere knitwear here - dresses, cardigans, trousers international artists, and has a reputation for picking up on the newest developments in the city’s art scene. 291 46 60, www.recrec-shop.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat - special. The pieces are produced in Nepal, by highly skilled and Q 8 Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the 11:00 - 16:00, Sun & Mon closed. well-paid workers. However, the designs for women and men G-6, Dufourstrasse 48, Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41 43 main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian are very contemporary.QF-4, Obere Zäune 3, 8Kunsthaus, 535 85 91, www.karmainternational.org. Open Wed area almost without traffi c - but watch out for the trams! It’s tel. +41 44 251 05 02, www.cashmerelovers.ch. - Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. world-famous for its luxury stores: fi nd jewellery, watches DEPARTMENT STORES Open Wed - Fri 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. and designer boutiques as well as the big department JELMOLI stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what IRO OFFSPACES to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign com- they are indeed: Hugo Boss, DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hil- We are sure you have heard of IRO, the en-vogue fashion STARKART They have regular exhibitions as well as panies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse fi ger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can label of the Fench brothers Laurent and Arik Bitton! Well, concerts, readings etc. Starkart’s festival poolloop in displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say fi nd at the Jelmoli department store. But there’s more than you can now browse through their latest collection in their summer is one of the important events on the cal- Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an new store in Zurich (women’s collection only). IRO is French endar here, dedicated to the phenomenon of loops walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping in sound, visuals and text. QB-1, Brauerstrasse 126, electronics department. And not to forget the Gourmet nonchalance combined with rock’n’roll chic and some ex- 8 fan. Factory in the basement - a big grocery store for gastro- quisite materials. QE-3, Strehlgasse 5, 8Rennweg, tel. Bäckeranlage, www.starkart.org. Open Thu & Fri nomes with fi ne food from Switzerland and around the +41 43 497 36 05, www.iro.fr. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 19:00. Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old Q 8 town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining world. E-3, Seidengasse 1, Rennweg, tel. +41 44 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. OPENING HOURS MANOR Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of de- ENGLISH BOOKS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open partment stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in and more – pay us a visit Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops in- young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands cluding jewellers and shops outside the centre often - though they have something for everyone’s needs. Orell Füssli The Bookshop, close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. Besides that there are departments for beauty, sports, Bahnhofstrasse 70, 8001 Zürich On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 household and home electronics. And last but not least a english.books.ch very popular and excellent self-service restaurant on the (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays Q 8 all shops are closed (except in train and petrol sta- top fl oor. E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 75, Bahnhofstrasse, tions). Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30. tel. +41 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

50 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 51 Shopping Shopping NEW THE NORTH FACE STORE SWISS CHOCOLATE MAKING THINGS GUESS ZURICH The Zurich fl agship store of the American outdoor compa- Things are made. But the things you’ll fi nd here all testify to Guess has its own fl ag- ny The North Face naturally features everything the brand the love of making things well. Rain jackets in British waxed ship store in Zurich - and has become famous for: outerwear, fl eeces, shirts and foot- cotton (Norse Projects), panama hats of timeless elegance yes, it is the biggest in the wear as well as equipment such as backpacks, tents and (Ecuo Andino) and other clothes, bags, shoes, accessories country. In the middle of sleeping bags.QD-3, Sihlstrasse 95, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. from dedicated designers the world over. Men’s shop on the Niederdorf they dis- +41 44 210 07 17, www.thenorthface.com. Open 10:00 Geroldstrasse 23 (K-7).QC-3, Grüngasse 20, 8Bezirks- play the Guess and Guess by Marciano collections on - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. gebäude, tel. +41 43 243 31 88, www.makingthings.ch. more than 500sqm and over two stories, for both men Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. and women: jeans, garments, shoes, accessories like Confi serie Sprüngli sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume - the full range of Guess goods is on show and on sale. TOM FORD Q 8 Swiss chocolate is of world renown. But have you American fashion designer Tom Ford designs men’s fash- F-3, Marktgasse 12, Rathaus, tel. +41 43 343 ever wondered why it is the Swiss who make such deli- ion with the utmost elegance. In his Zurich shop - it was 95 71, www.guess.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri cious chocolate? his fi rst one outside the US - you can fi nd anything from 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. closed Sun. Cocoa, the main ingredient of chocolate comes from perfumes to shoes, shirts and suits. Ford’s collection for Q South America and was brought to Europe in the early women is available in the Zurich shop too. E-4, Mün- and streetwear specialist Doodah, Lola Fred yoga wear and 8 16th century. But it wasn’t until the end of the 18th sterhof 17, Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 221 02 50, the cycle shop HappyBike are all there as well as a huge Transa Q century that Swiss craftsmen started to process cocoa www.troispommes.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - store, a Swiss specilaist in hiking and travel. D-2, Main railway 8 and to establish small businesses producing chocolate. 18:00, Sun closed. station, Hauptbahnhof, www.europaallee.ch. Most In the 19th century some of today’s best known Swiss shops are open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -18:00, Sun closed. chocolate producers (like Suchard, Sprüngli, Lindt, Calli- er and Tobler) were established. But it took two leaps of SIHLCITY technology in the 1870s for Swiss chocolate to become A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the grounds a real success. First Daniel Peter invented milk choco- of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern architecture carefully late. Then, in 1879, Rodolphe Lindt invented the myste- blended with the factory buildings, more than 80 shops from rious conche. This scraper-mixer makes solid chocolate fashion to electronics, restaurants, a hotel and a multiplex Q smooth and creamy rather than hard and gritty, as it cinema. Easily accessible from the city centre by tram. B-6, 8 A sunny moment on Bahnhofstrasse. AM had been until then. The Lindt conche was a milestone Giesshübelstrasse 15, Sihlcity Nord, tel. +41 44 204 99 and has been copied ever since. 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. SHOES & ACCESSORIES In the following decades, the Swiss became very keen on this creamy chocolate and soon also started export- NEW OUTDOOR CLOTHING KÜNZLI ing their produce. Today around 175,000 tons of choco- & SPORTS late are produced in Switzerland per year. These are Swiss-made quality sneakers. The Künzli trade- Sihlcity shopping mall off ers many pleasant views. PD OCH SPORT mark are the 5 so called klötzlis, 5 small squares they put In Zurich, the most famous chocolate producer and At Och Sport you’ll fi nd just about everything for any kind on all their shoes. Künzli has a long history, mostly with confectioner is probably Sprüngli, the original shop of sports on three stories: tennis, badminton, trekking, orthopedic shoes. But since a fresh redesign a few years with café situated on Paradeplatz (see p. 32). Another MALLS running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it ago, their normal sneakers have become popular too. well-known Zurich chocolate maker is Lindt & Sprüngli. & SHOPPING CENTRES all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and Their Zurich fl agship store is located in an arch of a railway Its factory is just outside Zurich and you can buy Lindt EUROPAALLEE PASSAGE outerwear - but sports defi nitely comes fi rst here. QE-3, viaduct, part of the shopping street Im Viadukt.QViadukt- chocolate in literally every grocery store. The shopping mall Europaallee Passage is part of a whole Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 215 21 21, strasse 45, 8Dammweg, tel. +41 43 810 85 10, Here are a few suggestions on where to buy chocolate: new neighbourhood just next to the main railway station. www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - www.kuenzli-schuhe.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - The emphasis is on clothes and outdoor activities: skateboard 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. 17:00, Sun closed. LÄDERACH CHOCOLATIER SUISSE The traditional Swiss chocolatier Läderach sells freshly produced chocolate, fi lled chocolates and pralines. You even get an insight into the craft of confectionery here, as Time to take up sport again some of the chocolate is actually produced on site.QE-2, Bahnhofstrasse 106, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 211 53 72, www.laederach.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TEUSCHER CONFISERIE More than a hundred diff erent fl avours of Swiss chocolate, marzipan, and the famous champagne truffl es made according to Adolf Teuscher’s traditional recipe. QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 46, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 13 90, www.teuscher.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu & Bahnhofstrasse 56, Zürich Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00. www.ochsport.ch Löwenstrasse 19 - Zürich

52 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 53 Shopping Shopping LANGSTRASSE SWISS DESIGN CARAN D’ACHE Shopping in Zurich is not just Bahnhofstrasse and the Caran d’ Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing old town. There are other districts which are well worth instruments. In their Zurich boutique you will fi nd their a visit for shoppers - especially if you are hunting for entire collection - everything from pens, pencils, markers some cool clothes and accessories and would like a and fountain pens to paints and paint brushes. Their boxes break from the big global brands. The area around the of colour pencils are a classic present for children, but you southern end of Langstrasse in district n°4 (aka Chreis can also just treat yourself to one of the elegant pens. Cheib) defi nitely is such an area. Every few steps you QD-3, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44 273 come across another enticing little shop on Langstrasse 90 00, www.carandache.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon or in the side streets. Generally it’s less glittery and 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. glamourous here than on Bahnhofstrasse, but more urban and cosmopolitan with many young, Swiss FABRIC FRONTLINE Old-town shopping on Rennweg. AM labels. We list some of our favourites below. Langstrasse Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and blouses all made of is closer than you think, and not only worth the visit for coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business QL-6, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, the nightlife! Fabric Frontline specialises in. In their store in the covered tel. +41 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00, courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz, they Fri & Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun closed. CRIZ Sunglasses handy? The shoes on Bahnhofstrasse are dazzling. Zurich Tourism (BM) also sell fi nest jackets and pullovers made of cashmere. Swiss label Criz designs leather bags in diff erent sizes QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 WELSCHLAND and accessories like wallets for both men and women. NAVYBOOT 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, At this small delicatessen you can fi nd all the specialities of Many of them come in strong colours. All of Criz’ prod- The is the Zurich fl agship store of Navyboot, the successful Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. the Romandie, the French speaking western part of Switzer- ucts are produced in Switzerland. QC-2, Stauff acher- 8 Swiss brand for boots (men and women) and bags. Scan land, where people are said to be more relaxed than around strasse 102, Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 268 44 11, their latest collection, have a coff ee at the bar or just treat Zurich. Be it sausages, many cheeses, wines or absinth - it’s www.criz.ch. Open 11:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, your feet: the Footlounge day spa on the second fl oor does SWISS FOOD all there. Co-owner Laurent Houriet is usually happy to off er closed Sun. a range of foot massages. QD-4, Nüschelerstrasse 35, TRITT-KÄSE you some tasters, while he guides you through his store. 8Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 44 220 10 90, www.navyboot.ch. Dozens of diff erent cheeses from all corners of Switzerland. QB-3, Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. +41 SAUS UND BRAUS - SHOP FOR DESIGN Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff is usually happy 43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Saus und Braus (in the lap of luxury) is like a little depart- 18:00, Sun closed. to cut some for you or to recommend their favourites. Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun & Mon closed. ment store for more than 70 mostly Swiss design labels including shop owner Baba Rüegg’s very own Saus & Braus dresses. You can fi nd fashion, bags, accessories, SOUVENIRS jewellery, lamps and some interior design. It’s also a good MENG CUTLERY shop for hunting for presents and weird stuff (like soap Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse off ers classic Swiss in the shape of a madonna). Goods here are not cheap, souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brands Vic- but poking through this shop is just great. But beware, torinox and Wenger. Also on stock: other knives, scissors, you might leave with your bag full of things you didn’t Q 8 watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop even know existed. B-3, Ankerstrasse 14, Bezirks- at Poststrasse 4 (E-4). QE-3, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, 10% DISCOUNT gebäude, tel. +41 44 242 23 11, www.sausbraus.ch. tel. +41 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun & Mon. - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. On the entire selection SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK of watches and jewelry. TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion Valid until April 30, 2014, At Teddy’s they have a wide accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. in all CHRIST shops. range of souvenirs and gifts. Q Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2. E-3, Uraniastrasse 1, In ZURICH at Bahnhofstrasse 78 I Whether it’s clocks, cowbells, 8 hats, music boxes, soft toys, Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 222 19 55, Jelmoli I St. Annahof pocket knives or clothes you’re www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Does not apply to special orders, after: you’ll fi nd it all at their services, repairs or gift certifi cates. shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Gross- Cannot be combined with any other offers. münster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer SWISS SHOP 1291 (DOLMETSCH) glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over They off er classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional army knives from Victorinox and Wenger, many watch shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. brands as well as travel accessories and outdoor fashion by Swiss and international brands. Sister shop at Shop And yes, the souvenir shop is open even on Sundays. Q QF-4, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 Ville in the main railway station. F-2, Limmatquai 126, STYLE 8 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open Central, tel. +41 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, www.christ-swiss.ch Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

54 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 55 Shopping WATCHES & JEWELLERY CHOPARD BOUTIQUE Chopard is one of the most exclusive manufacturers of Making time a value Swiss luxury watches. In their small boutique you can purchase all of their collections.QBahnhofstrasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 215 30 30, www.chopard.com. since 1760 Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sun closed.

CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Carefully does it! Shopping for watches at Beyer. PD Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sis- ter shops at the department stores St. Annahof (Bahnhof- 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 19 33, www.meister strasse 57, E-3) and Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3). Get 10% -zurich.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed discount on their entire selection with the voucher in this Sun. guide!QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - NOMOS GLASHÜTTE 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. The reduced and very classy design of these watches manufactured in Germany is certainly one reason why IWC BOUTIQUE they have become classics. Another is the German ac- Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaff hausen has curacy and enduring quality of these timekeepers.QF-3, its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic Spiegelgasse 13, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 400 14 17, watches, be it the pilot’s series or the diver’s watch family. www.nomos-glashuette.com. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg, www.iwc.com. 11:30 - 17:00, Sun & Mon closed. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. PARTIME LES AMBASSADEURS A Zurich Partime watch simultaneously shows the time of Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery in day and how much of the day is left. A right angle within a their newly renovated store. You can fi nd brands such as circle indicates the hours horizontally and the minutes verti- Audemar Piguet, Cartier, Longines, Zenith and Jaeger- cally. The blue area within the circle represents the amount LeCoultre. QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradu- +41 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open ally eats into the blue, until the circle is all white at the end 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Sun closed. of the day. Find it in the fl agship store or at the retailers indi- Q cated on page 58 - or order it in the webshop. K-6, Tech- «We only deal in watches MEISTER noparkstrasse 1, 8Technopark, tel. +41 44 445 14 55, Upmarket watches and in-house repair service. Brands www.partime.ch. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun closed. that will stand the test of time. include Blancpain, Ebel, Omega, Ulysse Nardin and Eterna. Q As, indeed, we have.» Jewellery store and silverware. E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 33, BEYER For more than 250 years TAX FREE SHOPPING Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The As a foreign resident you are entitled family business is now led to a refund when making purchases by the eighth generation. for more than 300Sfr (including Beyer is specialized in sell- René Beyer VAT), provided the goods leave the ing some of the world’s most sought after brands, such country within 30 days. You will get as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard back the VAT, which in Switzerland is and Cartier, as well as their own brand Beyer. Guests only 8% - minus a handling fee. It’s as get fi rst-class service, a sip of Champagne or delicious easy as this: watch out for the Global Sprüngli chocolate to feel comfortable. The gold- Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund smiths at the fi ne jewellery workshop create precious form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, custom-made pieces, for some royals too. The neigh- receipts and passport to Swiss customs offi cials. They bouring Patek Philippe boutique is also managed by will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate Beyer and off ers a wide range of exclusive timepieces. Q 8 refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 31, Paradeplatz, tel. +41 Watches & Jewellery Blue refund point (e.g. at or all around 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - Bahnhofstrasse 31 8001 Zurich beyer-ch.com Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com. 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

56 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Watches Watches Bahnhofstr. 31 Bahnhofstr. Limmatplatz 1 Bahnhofstrasse 64 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 40 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 61 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 48 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 47 Bahnhofstrasse Seidengasse 1 Bahnhofstrasse 17 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 33 Bahnhofstrasse

Poststrasse 4 Poststrasse 31 Rennweg TISSOT LUXURY Bahnhofstrasse 94 Bahnhofstrasse Gerbergasse 5 Gerbergasse Limmatquai 82 Limmatquai Bahnhofstrasse 14 Bahnhofstrasse Seefeldstrassse 45 Seefeldstrassse Limmatquai 126 Limmatquai Langstrasse 234 hausen, Bahnhofstrasse 1 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 50 Bahnhofstrasse

Bahnhofstrasse 25 Bahnhofstrasse AUTOMATIC Paradeplatz Buchholzstrasse 3, Bahnhofstrasse 31 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 36 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 25 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 78 Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofstrasse 31 Bahnhofstrasse Theaterstrasse Theaterstrasse 16 Bahnhofstrasse 80 Bahnhofstrasse & Co, any olter Max, olter www.tissot.ch Aff Uhren, Meister Meng Cutlery, Meng Cutlery, Omega Boutique, Oscar Stahel, Philippe Boutique, Patek Boutique, Rolex Store, Swatch Tiff A., Türler Zinniker, Airbijoux, Beyer, Bourquin, Bucherer, Breguet, Bulgari, Cartier Joailliers, Boutique, Chopard Christ, Jelmoli, Christ at Christian Goldschmiede, Dolmetsch, Daniel, Feist Galli, Gübelin, IWC Schaff Kurz, La Serlas, Ambassadeurs, Les 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 A. Lange & Söhne •• Audemars Piguet ••• Balmain •• • Baume & Mercier •• • • Bell & Ross • Beyer • Blancpain •• • Breguet •• • • • Breitling ••••• Bulgari • Cartier •• • • Certina • • ••• • • Charriol • • Chopard •• • • Corum •• De Grisogono • Ebel •• • • Eterna •••• Franck Muller •• Girard Perregaux •• Hublot ••• IWC Schaff hausen •• •• • • Jaquet Droz •• Jaeger-LeCoultre ••••• Longines •• • •••• • Louis Erard •••• • Maurice Lacroix ••• Mondaine •• • •• • Movado • Omega ••••••• Oris •• • Parmigiani Fleurier • Patek Philippe ••• Piaget •• Quinting • Rado •• ••• • • Raymond Weil ••• • • Rolex •• • Swatch • ••• • • Swiss Military •• ••• •• TAG Heuer •• •••• • Tiff any • Tissot • • ••• •• • • Ulysse Nardin •• • Urwerk • Victorinox Swiss Army • ••• • Vulcain • Wenger ••• Zenith •• •• Zurich Partime ••••

58 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 59 Hotels Hotels Zurich is a business destination fi rst and foremost - and WIDDER ver category there is a window to peek from the bathroom hotel rates refl ect that. From Friday night to Monday morn- The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former residential to the bedroom - just one of the more surprising, playful ing, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of houses in the mediaeval old town, with the prestigious touches here. On the top fl oor there is a sauna with an this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each of the 49 rooms impressive view over the district. QPfi ngstweidstrasse fi ve-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation is diff erent in layout and atmosphere. Many have traces of 102, 8Toni-Areal, tel. +41 44 577 25 25, fax +41 in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommo- historical paintings which were brought to new life when the 44 577 28 88, [email protected], dation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some rooms have www.25hours-hotels.com. 126 rooms (60 doubles taste and almost any budget. modern elements which contrast with the ancient walls and 149 - 249Sfr, 60 triples 179 - 249Sfr, 8 junior suites 199 beams. Others are furnished with antiques and look more clas- - 279Sfr, 1 suite 249 - 319Sfr). Breakfast 25Sfr, Wi-fi in- sical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace with views over cluded. PHA6ULKDWhhhh the old town towards the lake and the Alps. Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology and bathrooms to AMBASSADOR À L’OPÉRA dream of. QE-3, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 The Ambassador is situated just next to the Zurich Opera 25 26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, [email protected], house and a stone‘s throw from the lake. The rooms of www.widderhotel.ch. 49 rooms (16 singles 570 - 620Sfr, this elegant Neo-Baroque building have high ceilings, 16 doubles 750 - 950Sfr, 9 suites 1700 - 2200Sfr, 6 ju- creating a feeling of spaciousness, even in the smaller nior suites 1120 - 1420Sfr, 1 family room 1200Sfr, 1 rooms. The interior is kept in a classic and elegant English presidential suite 4000Sfr). Breakfast 32Sfr, Wi-fi free. The view from Stadthausquai down the Limmat to Rathausbrücke. style. The beds are electrically adjustable, there is a cof- PJHAR6UFLKWhhhhh www.juanrubiano.com fee machine in every room and free wired internet. As a special service you can choose from a range of diff er- ZURICH MARRIOTT HOTEL UPMARKET ent styles of pillows at the reception. The Opera restau- The views from the rooms in the main tower of the Zürich 25HOURS HOTEL ZÜRICH WEST rant on the ground fl oor (try their fi sh specialities) off ers Marriott Hotel just next to the main train station are breath- With the use of many lush colours local designer of renown picnic baskets. Take one along to the lake or the hotel’s taking. The old town, the river, the lake, it’s all there just out- Alfredo Häberli has made the all new 25hours a very cool roof terrace. QF-5, Falkenstrasse 6, 8Opernhaus, tel. side your window. The rooms with their light walls and dark and perhaps slightly crazy place - matching its location in +41 44 258 98 98, fax +41 44 258 98 00, welcome@ wood furniture are modern and elegant and come with Zurich’s fast developing district Zürich West. The city and ambassadorhotel.ch, www.ambassadorhotel.ch. 45 The unique Hotel Widder, in the Lindenhof district. zuerichfoto.ch quite some technology. If you would like more space or an its more or less known sights can be found throughout the rooms (26 singles 220 - 470Sfr, 18 doubles 330 - 590Sfr, additional seating area, upgrade your room to superior or hotel, just keep your eyes open! The rooms come in three 1 suite 480 - 640Sfr). Breakfast 28Sfr, wired internet & In Switzerland hotels are offi cially categorized with executive category (the latter with 24 hour access to the diff erent categories which diff er mainly in size. In the sil- Wi-fi included. PJA6KWhhhh stars from one to fi ve. The categorization is done by Executive Lounge). There is of course a gym with sauna and hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel solarium. The in-house bar & lounge 42, the Swiss restau- can also receive the supplement ’superior’, indicating rant eCHo and the Thai restaurant White Elephant make for a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels a real fi rst class experience. Event facilities for up to 600 per- according to their offi cial classifi cation in the following sons available. QE-1, Neumühlequai 42, 8Beckenhof, SHERATON ZURICH HOTEL categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Mid- tel. +41 44 360 70 70, fax +41 44 360 77 77, marriott As of January 17th, 2014 range*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classifi cation [email protected], www.zurichmarriott.com. we list some of the hostels in town. The prices indicated 264 rooms (42 singles 235 - 420Sfr, 103 doubles 245 include VAT. The city tax is 2.50Sfr per night and is usually - 440Sfr, 8 suites 650 - 1050Sfr, 30 junior suites 355 - additional. 565Sfr, 1 business suite 950 - 1850Sfr). Breakfast 42Sfr, Wi-fi 35Sfr per day. PJHA6UFLKDW CREAM OF THE CROP international chain hotel ALDEN The smallest boutique fi ve-star hotel in Zurich, in a building SYMBOL KEY from the late 19th century in the Enge district, lies within walking distance of the lake and the glamorous shopping P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted area around Bahnhofstrasse. Each room is one of a kind, with a careful choice of modern and antique furniture and T Child-friendly H Conference facilities art. Bathrooms are huge, with a jacuzzi-style bath tub and R U Artistic architecture and capturing design sets the stage for the Sheraton Zurich Hotel as the new gathering place a rain shower. Book one of the lofts (one has its own sauna) Internet in room Facilities for the disabled in Zurich. Be part of the vibe at the pulse of upcoming Zurich West. Unfold yourself and your senses in spacious and enjoy your own private terrace above the rooftops of F Fitness centre L Parking on site rooms and enjoy foresight from above. Experience at the Café & Bar „NUOVO“ and the best what Zurich. The ground fl oor harbours a restaurant with inter- the 26 Swiss cantons have to offer at the Swiss Grill Restaurant “Route twenty-six”. Meet you there! national cuisine and a bar. A very personal fi ve-star experi- K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station THE NEW GATHERING PLACE IN ZURICH! ence.QD-5, Splügenstrasse 2, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. +41 D Sauna C Swimming pool 44 289 99 99, fax +41 44 289 99 98, [email protected], ENJOY 15% OFF AND EARN STARPOINTS WHEN YOU DINE WITH SPG. SIGN UP AT WWW.SPG.COM www.alden.ch. 22 rooms (doubles 462 - 830Sfr, suites 6 Animal friendly W Wi-fi connection 792 - 1770Sfr, junior suites 594 - 1060Sfr, presidential SHERATON ZURICH HOTEL · Pfingstweidstrasse 100 · 8005 Zurich J suite 1188 - 2100Sfr). Breakfast included, Wi-fi 24.90Sfr/ City centre location [email protected] · www.sheratonzurichhotel.com · +41 (0)44 285 4000 day. PJR6KWhhhhh

60 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 61 Hotels Hotels CENTRAL PLAZA terrace, a fl at-screen TV and a kitchenette with a micro- MEET THE RECEPTIONIST Central is in the name, and central it is indeed. The old town wave and fridge. With just a small number of rooms and starts right in front of the main entrance. With a tram junc- apartments, the Kraft is able to provide a private and per- For this issue Zurich In tion next to the hotel, it’s not the quietest spot - but the sonal atmosphere. The tram gets you to the city centre in Your Pocket spoke to triple glazing shuts out the city‘s noise. Standard rooms are less than 15 minutes, the stop is just two minutes away. Klara Sophie Moravetz rather small, but live up to the standard you can expect of Note there is no air-conditioning. QH-2, Kraftstrasse 33, (29), who graduated from a hotel of this class. There is free Wi-fi and wired internet. 8Toblerplatz, tel. +41 44 388 84 85, fax +41 44 383 23 Zurich’s hotel manage- Ask for a room with a view onto the river or one of the two- 48, [email protected], www.palaiskraft.com. ment college Belvoirpark room junior suites. One of the suites even has a glass ceiling (3 studio rooms 360 - 420Sfr (weekly 1800 - 2100Sfr, and has been working as so you can watch the stars while you fall asleep. No air-con- monthly 3600 - 4300Sfr), 3 apartments (95 - 182sqm) receptionist at the hotel ditioning but an air cooling system. Fitness room, piano bar weekly rate 3000Sfr - 6250Sfr, monthly 6000 - 12,500Sfr). Ambassador à l`Opéra for two years now. and King’s Cave restaurant - known for its excellent sirloin Wi-fi incl., breakfast in studio rooms incl., in apartments - are in the building too. QF-2, Central 1, 8Central, tel. 35Sfr. ARUDWhhhh What do you like best about your job? +41 44 256 56 56, fax +41 44 256 56 57, [email protected], The great variety this job off ers, no two days are the www.central.ch. 101 rooms (26 singles 260 - 395Sfr, 70 RAMADA HOTEL ZÜRICH CITY same! If you really like people, and want to make them doubles 260 - 395Sfr, 9 suites 365 - 540Sfr). Breakfast from The Ramada is situated next to the Letzigrund sports happy, the front desk is your place. And you get the 18Sfr. JHAR6UFLEKXWhhhh stadium, a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre. It chance to speak many diff erent languages within a few was opened in February 2011 and off ers 4star comfort hours. COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT ZURICH NORTH Hotels Eden au Lac and Steigenberger Bellerive on the lakeside. ZIYP at reasonable prices. The huge fl owers on the wallpaper Opened in 2006 in the new district north of Oerlikon train give the modern rooms a fresh touch. The Business rooms What was the most extraordinary request a guest station and near the exhibition centre, the Courtyard by separated from the bathroom. Guests have free entrance off ers free use of a capsule coff ee machine. There is an ever put to you? Marriott is just fi ve minutes by train from the airport and sev- to the Luxor Fitness Centre in the same building which in- exercise room, a sauna and the Restaurant La Terrasse with As an offi cial partner of the Zurich Film Festival, we had en from the city centre. Rooms have either a king-size bed or cludes a sauna, a solarium and a whirlpool. On the week- a nice garden. All rooms are non-smoking, but a smokers’ some special arrangements to organize, but a trustwor- two single ones and free and coff ee. Thanks to the iron ends you can book the junior suites as specially decorated lounge is located at the Lobby-bar. QBadenerstrasse thy receptionist keeps silent and smiles. and ironing-board provided there’s no excuse for turning up Loverooms for a romantic weekend with your beloved. 537, 8Freihofstrasse, tel. +41 44 437 99 00, zuerich@ at tomorrow’s meeting with your suit looking anything but On the ground fl oor the Restaurant Le Poisson serves fi sh ramada-treff .ch, www.ramada.de/zuerich. 159 rooms (1 What do you personally like about Zurich? perfect. A small shop at the reception off ers sandwiches and specialities. QE-4, Claridenstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, single 169 - 310Sfr, 155 doubles 169 - 310Sfr, 3 junior I’ve been living here for the last eight years and I could drinks around the clock. The max-restaurant, bar & lounge tel. +41 44 286 22 22, fax +41 44 286 22 86, info@ suites 360 - 390Sfr). Breakfast 28Sfr, Wi-fi included. never leave, as Zurich is always in season! In summer I on the ground fl oor is a good place to start off your evening hotelglaernischhof.ch, www.hotelglaernischhof.ch. 62 PHAR6UFLKDWhhhh love to cool off in the river or the lake. Zurich also off ers with an aperitif (free snacks with every drink Tue - Thu 17:30 rooms (11 singles 260 - 370Sfr, 48 doubles 340 - 510Sfr, great cultural diversity. - 19:00.). QN-1, Max-Bill-Platz 19, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, 3 junior suites 490 - 570Sfr). Breakfast & Wi-fi incl. tel. +41 44 564 04 04, fax +41 44 564 04 00, courtyard PJHAR6FLKWhhhh What is not to miss in Zurich? [email protected], www.courtyardzurich.com. You can`t visit Zurich without having been up Uet- 152 rooms (150 doubles 149 - 399Sfr, 2 suites 374 - NOVOTEL ZÜRICH CITY-WEST liberg, don`t miss the beautiful path through the 564Sfr). Wi-fi and wired internet 28Sfr/24hrs, breakfast The classic Novotel experience: the modern business woods or the great views over Zurich and lots of high from 22Sfr. PHARUFLKWhhhh rooms feature a double bed, a mini-bar, a bathtub or mountains. shower and a free dataport and Wi-fi for your laptop. A CROWNE PLAZA room can accommodate up to two adults and two children Which restaurants and bars do you recommend? The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund sta- up to 16 years old (on the pull-out sofa) for one standard My favourite restaurant remains the good old dium 13 minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram. The price. The Novotel is located in Zurich West, a hip district Kronenhalle (see p. 28), not only for its fi ne cuisine but 365 rooms have all been completely refurbished in 2010 with many restaurants, clubs and bars - all within walking also for its collection of art works by e.g. Pablo Picasso and now come in a mix of bright and light brown hues, distance. The new tram stops just next to the hotel and or Paul Klee. The food is always seasonal and well- with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower takes you to the centre in 10 minutes. Hardbrücke train sta- paired with the rare . or a bathtub and free tea and coff ee making facilities. tion with many connections to the airport is just one stop Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space and away. There is also a small swimming pool for a relaxing What makes the hotel Ambassador à l’Opéra special? a couch lounge. For lunch or dinner, the two in-house swim after an exhausting day. QK-6, Schiff baustrasse 13, Our cosy, privately-owned boutique hotel is located restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu tend to your 8Technoparkstrasse, tel. +41 44 276 22 00, fax +41 44 just a few steps from Zurich Opera House and we needs. QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. +41 276 22 99, [email protected], www.novotel.com/2731. welcome many opera singers and composers 44 404 44 44, fax +41 44 404 44 40, [email protected], 144 rooms (139 doubles 159 - 300Sfr, 5 suites 259 - as our guests. At our gourmet restaurant Opera www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms (313 doubles 140 - 490Sfr, 450Sfr). Breakfast 29Sfr, free Wi-fi and wired internet. we serve excellent fish dishes and all produce is 2 suites 400 - 820Sfr, 9 Junior suites 310 - 710Sfr, 34 PTHAR6UFLKCWhhhh from exclusive sustainable sources. And moreover Deluxe rooms 250 - 650Sfr). Breakfast 33Sfr, Wi-fi incl. famous Bahnhofstrasse and the lake are also within PHAR6UFLKWhhhh PALAIS KRAFT walking distance. The Palais Kraft is most certainly one of the more unusual GLÄRNISCHHOF places to stay in Zurich. Located on Zürichberg, Zurich’s Zurich In Your Pocket is... In the fi nancial district and just off Bahnhofstrasse, the rather exclusive residential area, this luxurious private resi- .. the perfect small ‘must-have’ guide for locals and Glärnischhof has classically decorated standard rooms with dence off ers large studio rooms with high ceilings for long strangers! blue or grey carpets, a desk and a red leather armchair. and short term stays as well as serviced apartments with In the comfort category you get more space and a toilet 1 to 3 bedrooms. All studio rooms have wooden fl oors, a

62 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 63 Hotels Hotels SENATOR of two diff erent parts, a splendid Jugendstil building and ventilators. QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. Situated in the trendy and fast-developing district of Zurich a spiral annex in contemporary design by Zurich archi- +41 44 269 95 95, fax +41 44 269 95 90, info@hotel- West, this four-star hotel off ers good value for money. If you tects Burkhalter & Sumi. Rooms are modern and brightly marta.ch, www.hotelmarta.ch. 39 rooms (singles 110 plan on dining out and partying, this is a good location: coloured and all come with Nespresso coff ee machines. - 180Sfr, doubles 150 - 230Sfr, triples 225 - 260Sfr). some of Zurich‘s newest and fanciest clubs and restaurants The in-house restaurant R21 off ers with a Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. JHA6UWhh are just around the corner. The city centre is just ten min- Swiss touch. No air-conditioning. QJ-1, Orellistrasse 21, utes away by tram. If you prefer sleeping with an open win- 8Zoo, tel. +41 44 268 35 35, fax +41 44 268 35 45, dow, ask for a room looking onto the yard. There are some [email protected], www.zuerichberg.ch. 66 rooms HOSTELS triples available. For business travellers there are rooms (23 singles 220 - 390Sfr, 35 doubles 350 - 460Sfr, 8 CITY BACKPACKER (HOTEL BIBER) with more space to work and a coff ee machine. Restaurant Espace rooms 550 - 590Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi included. This is the only hostel-style place in the city centre - and prob- with traditional Swiss dishes, pizzas and on the HA6ULKWhhhh ably some of the cheapest accommodation in town. The City ground fl oor. QK-6, Heinrichstrasse 254, 8Escher-Wyss Backpacker is situated on the third fl oor of an old building in the Platz, tel. +41 44 448 18 18, fax +41 44 272 25 85, sena- Niederdorf party area - with no elevator. The six-person dorms On a winter stroll through Seefeld, a café is never too far away. [email protected], www.fassbindhotels.com. 122 MID-RANGE consist of three bunk beds, small lockers for your valuables and a Zurich Tourism (CM) rooms (15 singles 150 - 320Sfr, 12 triples 180 - 480Sfr, 86 ALEXANDER sink. There are also very basic private rooms. Showers and toilets twins 160 - 400Sfr, 9 superiors 210 - 520Sfr). Breakfast The Alexander is an intimate three-star hotel. The rooms SORELL SEEFELD are shared. There is a communal kitchen and a recreation room. 22Sfr, free Wi-fi . PHAR6ULKWhhhh come with dark wooden fl ooring and sand-coloured The Seefeld is a fully equipped three-star superior hotel Latest check-in 22:00 - no exceptions. QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse 5, bathrooms with LED lights. They also have a safe, a fl at- located just 200 metres from the lake in the Seefeld dis- 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 251 90 15, [email protected], screen TV and free Wi-fi throughout. The location in the trict. All rooms have parquet fl oor, soundproof windows www.city-backpacker.ch. (singles 77Sfr, doubles 118Sfr, Niederdorf nightlife area is very central (fi ve minutes walk and some also have a balcony. The grand-lit rooms feature triples 159Sfr, quads 196Sfr, dorm beds 37Sfr). City tax in- to the main train station). This doesn‘t make it the quietest beds with a width of 1.6 metres and can be used by two cluded, bed sheets in dorms 3Sfr. JA of places, but the windows are soundproof. Most rooms for a small surcharge; real double rooms are larger. There is have air-conditioning. The Alexander also has a two-star a gym, room service and a tram stop right on your door- YOUTH HOSTEL guest house around the corner. QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse step. No air-conditioning, but an air cooling system. QG-6, This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with 40, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 82 03, Seefeldstrasse 63, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 387 41 bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a fax +41 44 252 74 25, [email protected], 41, fax +41 44 387 41 51, [email protected], www. small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located www.hotel-alexander.ch. 41 rooms (5 singles 150 - hotelseefeld.ch. 64 rooms (15 singles 165 - 280Sfr, 49 - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private 200Sfr, 32 doubles 210 - 300Sfr, 4 triples 230 - 320Sfr). doubles 225 - 300Sfr). Breakfast included, Wi-fi included. doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 Breakfast included, free Wi-fi . PJALWhhh HA6FLWhhh hours reception and cheap meals (18.50Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a fi ve-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram Zurich’s seat of learning, the Federal Technical Institute or ETH. ZIYP BRISTOL to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops NEW The Bristol is just a 5-minute walk from the main train BUDGET right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet SHERATON ZURICH HOTEL station. That means all the city’s central sights are in other travellers. QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, You’ll recognise the signature white framed windows with walking distance. The rooms here are modern and This two-star hotel was completely refurbished in 2011 and tel. +41 43 399 78 00, fax +41 43 399 78 01, zuerich@ their irregular shape against the dark facade of the all-new simple: they all have a wooden fl oor, a fl at-screen TV off ers functional, well designed rooms with wooden fl oors youthhostel.ch, www.youthostel.ch/zuerich. 76 rooms Sheraton tower from afar. Located in the fast developing and come with either a single, a grand lit or two single and bright colours. The high ceilings make for a comfort- (16 doubles 138Sfr, 50 triples 158 - 173Sfr, 200 beds in former industrial district, the Sheraton features spacious beds. There are also rooms with three and four beds able, spacious room feeling. Besides single and double 4- or 6-bed rooms 40 - 50Sfr). Hostelling International rooms (31sqm) with parquet fl ooring and bathrooms with - ideal for families. Note there is no air-conditioning. rooms there are rooms for three or even four guests. Most membership required: a day’s membership 6Sfr, yearly rain showers. There is a look-through from the bathroom to QF-2, Stampfenbachstrasse 34, 8Stampfenbachplatz, rooms have private bathrooms with showers, all of them member card 33Sfr. Linen, breakfast and city tax includ- the bedroom, which can be closed for privacy. From the ho- tel. +41 44 258 44 44, fax +41 44 258 44 00, info@ feature a fl atscreen TV. There is a fully equipped small ed, Wi-fi free in public area. HAUKW tel’s gym you have an energizing view over the whole city, hotelbristol.ch, www.hotelbristol.ch. 56 rooms (13 kitchen on every fl oor which you can use to prepare a meal and from your room too, if you’re lucky. In some rooms you singles 120 - 200Sfr, 22 doubles 150 - 280Sfr, 10 triples or tea and coff ee. The old town and the lake are in walk- can actually sit on the window benches, leaning against the 200 - 350Sfr, 11 quads 250 - 400Sfr). Breakfast incl., free ing distance (10 - 15 minutes), tram stop just next to the AIRPORT HOTELS JHAR6Whhh Q 8 window - quite cool. Café bar ‘Nuovo’ and Swiss restaurant Wi-fi . hotel. G/H-3, Hottingerstrasse 31, Hottingerplatz, ALLEGRA ‘Route Twenty-Six’, with specialities from all 26 Swiss cantons tel. +41 44 256 19 19, fax +41 44 256 19 00, info@ Q 8 The Allegra is a good choice if you have an early-morning on the ground fl oor. Pfi ngstweidstrasse 100, Toni- LADY’S FIRST hotelhottingen.ch, www.hotelhottingen.ch. 32 rooms (6 fl ight - the free shuttle bus will make sure you don’t miss Areal, tel. +41 44 285 40 00, fax +41 44 285 40 99, info This small hotel is situated in an elegant 19th-century villa in singles 95 - 155Sfr, 16 doubles 125 - 240Sfr, 6 triples 210 it. Situated just next to the S-train station Kloten, the cen- [email protected], www.sheratonzurichhhotel the Seefeld district, not far from the shores of Lake Zurich. The - 280Sfr, 3 quads 300 - 340Sfr, 1 apartment 210 - 320Sfr). JA6ULWhh tre of Zurich is also just a 15-minute train ride away. The .com. 197 rooms (39 singles as of 189Sfr, 158 doubles as of rooms have retained much of their original charm, the high Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. rooms are quite spacious, have parquet fl ooring, a kettle 189Sfr, 28 junior suites as of 249Sfr, 4 suites as of 549Sfr). ceilings and wooden panelling blended with modern furnish- for tea and coff ee, a desk and come in a colourful design Breakfast 35Sfr, Wi-fi free in public area, internet in room ings to make for a very light, special atmosphere. On the top MARTA PHAR6UFLKWhhhh in the style of Dutch artist Piet Mondrian - even the linen 19Sfr/24h. fl oor there is a sauna and wellness area which is for women The marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in the matches the walls. There is ventilation but no air-condi- only - as is the roof-top terrace. The hotel is run by a non-profi t Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main train sta- tioning. QHamelirainstrasse 3, Kloten, tel. +41 44 804 SORELL ZÜRICHBERG cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportuni- tion. It was completely refurbished in 2010 and the blue co- Q 8 44 44, fax +41 44 804 41 41, [email protected], This architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the edge ty to work. G-6, Mainaustrasse 24, Feldeggstrasse, tel. loured rooms have a modern feel now. There is a twin bed, www.hotel-allegra.ch. 132 rooms (40 singles 110 - of the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram from the +41 44 380 80 10, fax +41 44 380 80 20, info@ladysfi rst.ch, a bathroom with shower and a fl atscreen TV in every room, 173Sfr, 80 doubles 125 - 205Sfr, 7 triples 150 - 230Sfr, main railway station and the lake. The view up here is thrill- www.ladysfi rst.ch. 28 rooms (7 singles 230 - 305Sfr, 17 as well as Wi-fi throughout the hotel. The hotel is run by a 5 quads 175 - 258Sfr). Breakfast 19Sfr, Wi-fi incl., free ing, with the city, the lake and the crests of the Alps all vis- doubles 290 - 395Sfr, 3 triples). Breakfast 18Sfr, Wi-fi in- non-profi t cooperation, giving socially challenged women car parking. HAR6UFLKWhhhh ible from the generous veranda. The hotel is a combination cluded. iA6ULDWhhh an opportunity to work. There is no air-conditioning but

64 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 65 Queer Zurich Directory Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no offi cial rule capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fi ts CONSULATES DENTISTS proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor the many bearded, beary guys you’ll fi nd here. QC-2, Here are the most important consulates you can fi nd in Zu- zahnarztzentrum.ch QHardturmstrasse 123, in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 243 30 43, rich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which is the 8Förrlibuckstrasse, tel. +41 43 366 62 00, www forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of www.maennerzone.ch. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 - 02:30. Swiss capital. See www.eda.admin.ch for addresses. .zahnarztzentrum.ch. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re China QMythenquai 100, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. +41 44 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 15:00. hetero. 209 15 00, fax +41 44 209 15 01, zurich.china-consulate.org. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring Q or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has Estonia Bergstrasse 52, Stäfa, tel. +41 44 926 88 37, fax LANGUAGE SCHOOLS been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival since 2010, +41 44 926 88 38, [email protected], www.baltics.ch/ Alemania QBadenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colour- konsulat. tel. +41 44 300 33 44, www.alemania.ch. Q 8 ful march through the city. In spring the Pink Apple fi lm France H-5, Signaustrasse 1, Signaustrasse, tel. festival (April 30 - May 8, 2014) shows gay and lesbian fi lms +41 44 268 85 17, fax +41 44 268 85 00, consulat.france from all over the world and awards a prize to a young direc- [email protected], www.consulatfrance-zurich.org. LIMOUSINE SERVICE Q tor. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Germany QJ-5, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz, Alliance Limousines tel. +41 43 499 62 88, Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay tel. +41 44 201 72 22, fax +41 44 201 72 29, zuerich@ www.alliance-limousines.ch. and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy kind, you’ll hk-diplo.de, www.honorarkonsul-zuerich.de. fi nd it in Zurich. Two of the city’s iconic gay clubs closed last Q 8 year - but happily new ones have opened, so there is hope. Ireland E-5, Claridenstrasse 25, Paradeplatz, LOST & FOUND Check out the websites or ask in some of the bars too. tel. +41 44 289 25 15, fax +41 44 289 25 50, www Lost & Found (VBZ) QE-3, Werdmühlestrasse 10, Pink meets politics at the Pride Festival. Zurich Pride Festival .embassyofi reland.ch. 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 412 25 50. Open 07:30 - Q 8 PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Italy D-4, Tödistrasse 65, Brandschenkenstrasse, tel. 18:30, Sat & Sun closed. CAFÉS & BARS Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top +41 44 286 61 11, fax +41 44 201 16 11, segreteria.zurigo@ CRANBERRY of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and esteri.it, www.conszurigo.esteri.it. Campari is a major theme in this minimalist bar - a play what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially Q 8 PHARMACIES Russia F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 10, Bellevue, tel. +41 Q 8 on the most famous Swiss German pop song Campari for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic 900 00 08 08 (5Sfr/min.), www.rusconsul.ch. Bahnhof Apotheke E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, Haupt- Soda? You can certainly order campari soda, but the team merrymaking. QF-3, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. bahnhof, tel. +41 44 225 42 42. Open 07:00 - 24:00. United States of America QG-6, Dufourstrasse 101, will make you most any other cocktail - and well. The +41 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 17:00 - Q 8 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 43 499 29 60, fax +41 43 499 Bellevue Apotheke F-5, Theaterstrasse 14, Bel- Cranberry is a buzzing bar for gays, lesbians and anybody 02:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun & Mon closed. 29 61, [email protected], bern.usembassy.gov. levue, tel. +41 44 266 62 22. Open 24hrs. gay-friendly. There are occasional theme parties. Check out the (mainly German) website for some useful queer links. QF-3, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 261 27 CLUBS & PARTIES 72, www.cranberry.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00. A 696 This is Zurich’s latest gay club, just opened last November. ç6": MÄNNERZONE A big dance fl oor, a lounge and a daring mix of music A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week styles: 90ies, mash-up and techhouse for instance. On the (Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the last Sat of the month it’s strictly trance and progressive. Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay QBadenerstrasse 696, 8Lindenplatz, www.696club.ch. bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only Open every Sat 22:00 - 06:00.

HEAVEN RESOURCES It was sad news last spring: the T&M, a gay club where GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE generations of gay men had spent half their tender years, had This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with to close. But we have witnessed a resurrection. Heaven opened English-language content. There’s a chat area, person- soon after, just a few blocks away. The new team running this als and a listing of up-coming events and infos on cosy club promise music from charts and house to more Welcome to Zurich underground tastes like deep house.QF-3, Spitalgasse 5, gay venues. You have to register for access, a standard 8 membership is free. Qwww.gaymeboys.com. Rudolf-Brun Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri 23:00 - 06:00, Sat 23:00 - 08:00. sç $OçYOUçKNOWçWHICHçTICKETçISçIDEALLYçSUITEDçTOçYOURçTRAVELçNEEDSçONç:URICHSçPUBLICç RAINBOWLINE ç TRANSPORTçNETWORK Rainbowline off ers telephone counseling on queer RAGE sç $OçYOUçNEEDçINFORMATIONçONçTHEçQUICKESTçWAYçTOçREACHçYOURçDESTINATION issues such as safe sex or homophobic violence on Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works - dark- rooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish +41 848 80 50 80 from 19:00 to 21:00 from Mon to Thu &ORçFRIENDLY çPROFESSIONALçANSWERSçTOçALLçYOURçQUESTIONSçABOUTçPUBLICçTRANSPORTçINçANDç (female counselors on Mon). Counseling is in German, pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only but many counselors speak some English and defi nitely men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station AROUNDç:URICH çSPEAKçTOçAçSPECIALISTçATçONEçOFçTHEçCITY@SçNINEç or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on enough to be of help in case of violence or another Q 6":çTICKETçOFlCES emergency. Rates are normal local rates. Qtel. +41 the weekend. Wagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. 848 80 50 80, www.rainbowline.ch. Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun WWWVBZCHENTICKETOFlCES 17:00 - 01:00. 13-20Sfr. NX

66 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 67 Street Register Street Register

Abeggweg M-5 Brandschenkesteig C-5 Färberstrasse G-6 Hafnerstrasse D-1 Johannesgasse C/D-1, M-7 Leonhardstrasse F-2 Neumünsterallee H-6 Rötelstrasse M-4/N-6 Siriusstrasse G/H-1 Utobrücke B-6 Achermannweg O-2 Brandschenkestr. C-6/D-4 Falkenstrasse F/G-5 Hainerweg H-6 Josefstrasse C/D-1, K-6/L-7 Lerchenstrasse B-6/7 Neumünsterstrasse H/I-6 Roggenstrasse L-6 Sonneggsteig F-1,N/O-7 Utoplatz B-6 Ackermannstrasse IJ-2 Brauerstrasse C-2 Fehrenstrasse H-4 Haldenbachstrasse G-1 Juliastrasse H-5 Lessingstrasse B-7 Niederdorfstrasse F-3 Rolandstrasse C-2 Sonneggstrasse F-1/2 Utoquai F-5/G-6 Ackerstrasse D-1/M-7 Breitingerstrasse D-6 Feilengasse H-7 Haldeneggsteig F-1 Jungholzhof O-1 Lettenfussweg L-6 Nietengasse B/C-2 Rosa-Bloch-Weg M-1 Sonnenbergstrasse J-4 Veilchenstrasse I-5 Aegertenstrasse B-4 Bremgartnerstrasse A-4/B-3 Feldeggstrasse G/H-6 Haldenstrasse A-5/6 Jungholzstrasse N-1 Lettensteg M-6/7 Niklausstrasse N-7 Rosengartenbrücke L-5 Sonnhaldenstrasse I-5 Venusstrasse N-2/3 Aehrenweg M-2 Brinerstrasse A-4 Feldgütliweg B-3 Hallenstrasse G-5/6 Jungholzweg O-1 Lettenstrasse M-6 Nordbrücke L/M-5 Rosengartenstrasse L-5 Sonntagsteig F-1,O-7 Verena-Conzett-Strasse C-4 Aff olternstrasse M/O-1 Brotgasse G-5/6 Feldstrasse B-2/3 Hallwylplatz C-4 Jungstrasse N-1 Lettenviadukt L/M-6 Nordheimstrasse M-3 Rotachstrasse A-4 Sophie-Albrecht-Weg M-1 Viaduktstrasse K-7 Agnesstrasse A-2 Brown-Boveri-Strasse M-1 Felsenkellerweg C-5/6 Hallwylstrasse C-4 Jupitersteig J-5 Letzistrasse O-5/6 Nordsteig E-1 Rotbuchstrasse M-5/6 Sophie-Taeuber-Strasse N-1 Viktoriaweg O-3 Akazienstrasse G-5/6 Brüderhofweg N-4 Felsenstrasse I-6 Hammersteig I-6 Jupiterstrasse I-5 Leutholdstrasse L-5 Nordstrasse K-5/N-7 Rothstrasse M/N-5 Sophienstrasse H-4 Vogelsangstrasse G-1 Albert-Näf-Platz O-2 Bruggerweg K/L-4 Fennergasse G-6 Hammerstrasse H/I-6 Käferholzstrasse L-2/M-4 Ligusterstrasse N/O-3 Nürenbergstrasse M-5 Rotwandstrasse C-2/3 Spanweidstrasse N-7 Volkmarstrasse N-7 Albertstrasse L-7 Brunaustrasse C/D-7 Fichtenstrasse I-5 Hardbrücke K-6/L-5 Kalandergasse B-6/7 Lilienstrasse I-5 Nürenbergweg M-5/6 Rousseaustrasse L-5/M-7 Spelteriniweg M-5/N-4 Voltastrasse H-2 Albin-Zollinger-Platz N-3 Brunnenhofstrasse M-4 Fierzgasse D-1/M-7 Hardstrasse K-6/7 Kalanderplatz B-7 Limmatplatz L/M-7 Nüschelerstrasse D-3/E-4 Rudolf-Brun-Brücke E-3,F-3 Spiegelhofstrasse H/I-3 Vorderberg H-2 Alderstrasse H-7 Brunnenhofweg M-4 Finslerstrasse I-2 Hardturmrampe K-6 Kalkbreitestrasse A-4/B-3 Limmatquai E3/F3-4 Oberdorfstrasse F-4 Rudolfstrasse H-7 Spielweg M-6 Waaggasse E-4 Alfred-Escher-Strasse D-6/7 Bubenbergstrasse B-7 Fliederstrasse F-1 Haselweg H-3 Kanalstrasse B-7 Limmatstr. D/E-1, K-6/M-7 Obere Waidstrasse K/L-4 Rückgasse G-6 Spielwiesenstrasse N-2 Wachterweg M-5 Allenmoosstrasse N/O-3 Bucheggplatz M-4 Flössergasse D-4 Hauserstrasse I-4/J-3 Kanonengasse C-2 Lindenbachstrasse M/N-6 Obere Weiherstrasse L-4 Ruedi-Walter-Strasse N-1 Spillmannweg H-1 Wäldlistrasse H/I-4 Allmendstrasse B-7 Bucheggstrasse L-5/N-4 Florastrasse G-6 Hedwigsteig I-6 Kantonsschulstrasse G-3/4 Lindenstrasse G-7 Obere Zäune F-3/4 Rüdigerstrasse B-6 Spitzackerstrasse N-4 Waff enplatzstrasse C-7 Alte Feldeggstrasse G-6 Buchmattweg N-4/5 Florhofgasse G-3 Hedwigstrasse I-6 Kantstrasse H-2/3 Lindenweg L-3/4 Oberer Gloriasteig H-2 Rütistrasse I-4 Splügenstrasse D-5 Wagnergasse G/H-5 Am Schanzengraben D-4 Büchnerstrasse G-1/O-7 Föhrenstrasse N-2 Hegarstrasse H-5 Kanzleistrasse A-2/C-3 Lintheschergasse E-2/3 Oberwiesenstrasse M-1/2 Rütschistrasse L/M-5 Spöndlistrasse G-2 Waidfussweg K-4/5 Ampèresteg K-5 Bühleggweg O-1 Forchstrasse H-5/6 Hegibachplatz I-6 Kapfsteig J-6 Löwenplatz D/E-3 Obstgartenstr. E1,F1,N7 Ruhestrasse B-6 Sprecherstrasse G-4/5 Waidstrasse K-4/5 Ampèrestrasse K-5 Bühlstrasse A-5 Franklinplatz N/O-2 Hegibachstrasse I-6/J-5 Kappelergasse E-4 Löwenstrasse D-3/E-2 Oerlikonerstrasse O-3 Salersteig O-2 Sprensenbühlstrasse I-4 Walchebrücke E-2,F-2 Andreasstrasse O-1 Bührlestrasse M-1 Franklinstrasse N/O-2 Heidegraben N-2/3 Kappelerhof E-4 Louis-Braille-Strasse A-6 Oetenbachgasse E-3 Salerstrasse O-2 Spyriplatz G-1 Walchestrasse E-1,F-1 Angelikaweg M-1/2 Bülachstrasse O-3/4 Frauenklinikstrasse G-2 Heimplatz G-4 Karl-Bürkli-Strasse A-2 Luisenstrasse C-1/L-7 Ohmstrasse O-1 Samariterstrasse I-4/5 Spyristrasse G/H-1,O-7 Waldfussweg K-4 Angererstrasse D-5 Bürglistrasse C-6 Fraumünsterstrasse E-4/5 Heinrichstr. C/D-1, K-6/M-7 Karlstrasse H-7 Lunastrasse H/I-5 Okenstrasse M-6 Sandstrasse B-5 St. Annagasse D/E-3 Waldhausstrasse J-3 Ankerstrasse B-3/C-2 Bürkliplatz E-5/F-5 Freiensteinstrasse H-4 Helenastrasse H-7 Kartausstrasse IJ-7 Lureiweg I-7 Oleanderstrasse N-2 Schäppistrasse O-6 St. Jakobstrasse C-3 Waldmeisterweg L/M-2 Anna-Heer-Strasse N-3/4 Büttenweg B-7 Freiestrasse G-3/I-5 Heliosstrasse I-5/6 Kasernenstrasse D-2/3 Lutherstrasse C-3 Olivengasse H-5 Schäppiweg O-6 St. Moritzstrasse N-6/7 Waltersbachstrasse E-1,N-7 Anton-Higi-Strasse L-2 Bungertweg I-3/4 Freigutstrasse C-4/D-5 Hellmutstrasse B-2 Kasinostrasse H-4 Lux-Guyer-Weg M/N-7 Oskar-Bider-Strasse M/N-5 Schaff hauserplatz N-6 St. Peterstrasse E-4 Waltersteig E-1,N-7 Anwandstrasse B-2 Burgsteig L-5/6 Freischützgasse D-2 Helvetiaplatz C-2 Katharinenweg C-6 Magnolienstrasse G-6 Othmarstrasse G-5 Schaff hauserstr. N-6/O-1 Stadelhoferplatz F/G-5 Wartstrasse I-5 Apollostrasse H-5 Burgstrasse L-6 Freudenbergstrasse H-1/2 Herbartstrasse C-2 Kehlhofstrasse A/B-4 Magnusstrasse B-2/C-1 Ottenweg G-6/H-5 Schanzackerstrasse O-5/6 Stadelhoferstrasse F-4/5 Wasserwerkstrasse L-6,N-7 Arbenzstrasse H-7 Burgweg H/I-6 Freudwilerweg H-1 Herman-Greulich-Strasse B-2 Keltenstrasse I-2 Maienstrasse L-2/M-1 Ottikerstrasse N/O-7 Schanzengasse G4-5 Stadthausquai E-4/5,F-4/5 Wattstrasse O-1 Armin-Bollinger-Weg M/N-1 Cäcilienstrasse G-4 Freyastrasse B-3/C-4 Herrenbergstrasse O-7 Kempterstrasse J-5 Maienweg L-2 Ottikerweg O-7 Scheff elstrasse L-5 Stäblistrasse G-1,O-7 Weberstrasse C-4 Arnold-Kübler-Strasse N-1 Carmenstrasse I-4 Friesstrasse O-1 Herzogstrasse H-2 Kenngottweg F-2 Mainaustrasse G-6 Ottilienstrasse A-3/4 Scheideggstrasse C-7 Staff elstrasse B-6 Wehntalerstrasse L-2/N-4 Arterstrasse H-5 Central F-2 Fritz-Heeb-Weg N-1 Heuelsteig I/J-4 Kernstrasse B-3/C-2 Malvenstrasse N/O-3 Otto-C.-Bänninger-Weg J-5 Scherrstrasse O-7 Stampfenbachplatz E-2,F-2 Weichengasse C-1 Asternweg O-3 Ceresstrasse H-7 Fröbelstrasse J-6 Heuelstrasse J-4 Kiefernweg M-2 Malzstrasse B-5 Otto-Lang-Weg H-1 Scheuchzerstrasse N-5/O-7 Stampfenbachstrasse Weihersteig L-4 Asylstrasse H-4/I-5 Chaletweg M-1 Frohburgstrasse O-5/6 Himmelsleitli H-3 Kinkelstrasse N-7/O-6 Manesseplatz B-5 Otto-Schütz-Weg N-1 Schienengasse B/C-1 E-1/2,F-1/2,N-6/7 Weinbergfussweg F-2 Attenhoferstrasse H-3 Claridenstrasse D-4/E-5 Fürstweg M-5 Hinterbergstrasse H-1/2 Kirchbühlweg A-4/5 Manessesstrasse B/C-4 Ottostrasse L-7 Schiff bauplatz K-6 Stapferstrasse F-1,O-7 Weinbergstrasse N-6/7 Aubrigstrasse C-4/D-5 Clausiussteig F-2 Füsslistrasse D/E-3 Hirschengraben F-3/G--4 Kirchenweg H-6 Manessestrasse B-5/6 Panweg G-1 Schimmelstrasse B/C-4 Stationsstrasse A/B-3 Weineggstrasse I-6/J-7 Auf der Mauer F-2 Clausiusstrasse F-1 Gablerstrasse C-6/7 Hirschgartnerweg O-4 Kirchgasse F-4 Mantelgasse H-7 Paradeplatz E-4 Schindlersteig N-6 Stauff acherbrücke C/D-4 Weineggweg J-7 Augustinergasse E-3/4 Con.-Ferd.-Meyer--Str. D-7 Gagliardiweg O-2 Hirschwiesenstrasse N/O-4 Klarastrasse G-5 Margrit-Rainer-Str. M/N-1 Parkring C/D-5 Schindlerstrasse M/N-6 Stauff acherplatz C/D-4 E-4 Aurorastrasse J-3/4 Corrodisteig L-4 Gallusstrasse N-7 Hitzigweg J-5 Klausstrasse G-6/7 Marienstrasse A-3 Paul-Grüninger-Weg M-1 Schipfe E-3,F-3 Stauff acherquai C-4/D-3 Weizenstrasse M-6 Ausstellungsstrasse D-1/M-7 Corrodistrasse L-4/5 Gartenhofstrasse B/C-3 Hochfarbstrasse F-2 Kleinertstrasse K/L-5 Marktgasse F-3 Pelikanplatz D-4 Schlatterweg N-5 Stauff acherstrasse A-2/C-3 Welchogasse O-2 Austrasse B-5 Cramerstrasse C-3 Gartenstrasse D-4 Hochstrasse H-2 Kleinjoggsteig H/I-1 Marktplatz O-2 Pelikanstrasse D-4 Schlehdornweg L-2 Steinentischstrasse C-5 Weltistrasse C-6 Azurstrasse N-2 Culmannstrasse G-1/O-7 Gartenweg C/D-4 Höhensteig J-5 Kleinstrasse G-5 Markusstrasse M/N-6 Pestalozzistrasse H-3 Schleifergasse I-6 Steinfelsplatz K-6 Wengistrasse B-3 Bachofnerstrasse M-6 Dahliastrasse G/H-7 Gasometerstrasse L/M-7 Höhenweg J-5 Klingenstrasse D-1 Marmorgasse C-2 Pfi rsichstrasse M/N-6 Schlössliweg H/I-1 Steinhaldenstrasse C-6/7 Werdgässchen C-3/4 Bachtobelstrasse A-6 Damhirschweg K/L-4 Gattikerstrasse J-6 Hölderlinsteig I/J-5 Klopstockstrasse C-6 Marscha-Kaléko-Weg N-1 Pfl anzschulstrasse B-2 Schlossgasse A/B-4 Steinhausweg E-1,F-1,N-7 Werdgartengasse C-4 Badenerstrasse A-2/D-3 Dammsteg L-6 Gaugerstrasse N-6 Hölderlinstrasse I-5 Klosbachstrasse H-5/I-4 Marsstrasse D-6 Pfl ugstrasse M/N-6 Schmelzbergstr. G-2/H-1 Steinkluppenweg N-3/4 Werdplatz C-3 Badweg D-4 Dammstrasse L-5/6 Geibelstrasse L-5 Hönggerstrasse K-5/L-6 Kloster-Fahr-Weg M/N7 Marstallweg D1,M7 Phönixweg G-3 Schneckenmannstr. H/I-3 Steinstrasse B-4/5 Werdstrasse C-3/4 Bächtoldstrasse H-3 Dammweg L-6 Geissbergweg O-6/7 Höschgasse G/H7 Klusdörfl i J-5 Martastrasse A-2/3 Physikstrasse G-2 Schönberggasse G-3 Steinwiesplatz G/H-4 Werikonweg N-6 Bäckerstrasse C-3 Delphinstrasse G-5 Geisshübelstrasse B-6/7 Hofackerstrasse I/J-6 Klusplatz J-5 Mattengasse C1, L/M-7 Pilatusstrasse J-3 Schönbühlstrasse H-4 Steinwiesstrasse G/H-4 Werkgasse G-6 Bärengasse D/E-4 Dianastrasse D-4 Gellertstrasse H-2 Hoff eld M-2/3 Klusstrasse J-5 Mattensteg E-1 Plattenstrasse H-3 Schöneggplatz B/C-1 Sternenstrasse D-6 Wibichstrasse L-4/M-5 Bahnhofbrücke E-2/F-2 Dienerstrasse C-2 Gemeindestrasse G/H-4 Hofhölzliweg L-2 Kochstrasse A-2 Max-Bill-Platz N-1 Postbrücke D/E-2 Schöneggstrasse C-1/2 Sternwartstrasse G-2 Wiedingsteig A-5 Bahnhofplatz E-2 Dietzingerstrasse B-4 Gemsenstrasse N-6 Hofstrasse H-4/J-2 Köchlistrasse B-3 Meierweg N-6 Poststrasse E-4 Schönleinstrasse G-3 Stockerstrasse D-4/5 Wiedingstrasse A-4/5 Bahnhofquai E2-3/F2-3 Dörfl istrasse O-2/3 General-Guisan-Quai D/E-5 Hofwiesenstrasse M-5/N-2 Köllikerstrasse I/J-3 Meiliweg A-5 Probusweg O-3 Schöntalstrasse C-4 Stolzestrasse O-6/7 Wiesenstrasse G-6 Bahnhofstrasse E-3/4 Dolderstrasse I-4/J-3 General-Wille-Strasse D-5 Hohe Promenade G-4 Körnerstrasse B-3 Meinrad-Lienert-Str. A/B-3 Promenadengasse G-4 Schreberweg J-2 Strandbadweg D-7 Wildbachstrasse H-7 Baschligplatz H-4 Doldertal I-3 Genfer Strasse D-5 Hohenbühlstrasse G-5 Konkordiastrasse H/I-5 Meinradstrasse N-6 Quaibrücke E-5,F5 Schreinerstrasse B-2/3 Strassburgstrasse C-3 Wilfriedstrasse H-4 Basteiplatz D-4 Dorfl indenstrasse O-2 Georgengasse N-7 Hohlstrasse B/C-2 Konradstrasse D-1 Merkurplatz H-4 Quellenstrasse L-7 Schrennengasse A-4 Streulistrasse I-5/J-6 Wilhelmstrasse K-6 Bauhallengasse B-3 Dorfstrasse K-5 Geranienstrasse H-7 Holbeinstrasse G-5 Korneliusstrasse H-7/8 Merkurstrasse G-5/H-4 Querstrasse N/O-2 Schubertstrasse M-6 Stüssistrasse N-5/6 Winkelriedstrasse G-1,O-7 Baumackerstrasse N/O-2 Drahtschmidlisteg E-1/N-7 Gerechtigkeitsgasse C/D-4 Holunderhof M-2 Kornhausbrücke M-7 Milchbuckstrasse N/O-5 Radgasse D-2/E-1 Schürbungert N-3/4 Sumatrasteig E-1,F-1,N-7 Winterthurerstrasse O-4/7 Baumgartnerstrasse B-3/4 Drahtzugstrasse I-6 Gerhardstrasse B-4 Holunderweg M-2 Kornhausstrasse M-6 Militärbrücke D-3 Rämistrasse F-4/G-2 Schützengasse E-2 Sumatrastr. E-1,F-1,N/O-7 Wipkingerbrücke K-6/L-5 Baumgasse D-1/M-7 Drehergasse H-5 Geroldrampe K-7 Hopfenstrasse B-5 Krähbühlstrasse I/J-2 Militärstrasse C/D-2 Rankstrasse I-6 Schützenmatt L-2 Susenbergstrasse J-2 Wipkingerplatz L-5 Baurstrasse G/H-7 Dreikönigstrasse D/E-5 Geroldstrasse K-7 Horgenweg K-2 Krähbühlweg J-2 Mimosenstrasse O-3 Rathausbrücke E-3,F-3 Schützeweg L-6 Talacker D/E-4 Wipkingerweg K/L-5 Beatenplatz E-2 Dubsstrasse B-5 Gersten-strasse L-6 Hottingerbergstrasse J-2/3 Kräuelgasse C-2 Minervastrasse H-5/I-6 Rebgasse C-3 Schulhausstrasse C-6 Talstrasse D-4/E-5 Wissmannstrasse M-5 Beckenhofstrasse N-7 Dufourstrasse G/H-7 Gertrud-Kurz-Strasse M-1 Hottingerplatz H-4 Kraftstrasse H/I-2 Mittelstrasse G-7 Rebhaldenstrasse C-6/7 Schulstrasse N-2 Tannenstrasse F/G-2 Witikonerstrasse J-5/6 Beckhammer N-3/4 Dunantstrasse I-2 Gessnerallee D-3/E-2 Hottingerstrasse G-4 Kreuzbühlstrasse G-5 Möhrlistrasse O-5/6 Rebhügelstrasse A-5 Schwalbenweg M-2 Tellstrasse C-2 Wolfbachstrasse G-4 Bederstrasse C-6 Ebelstrasse I/J-3 Gessnerbrücke D-2 Hotzesteig N-5 Kreuzplatz H-5 Molkenstrasse C-2 Regensbergstrasse M-2/O-3 Schwamendingenstr. O-2 Tessinerplatz D-5 Wolfbachtobelweg I/J-3 Beethovenstrasse D-4/E-5 Edenstrasse B-6 Giesshübelbrücke B/C-5 Hotzestrasse N-6 Kreuzstrasse G-5/6 Mommsenstrasse H-2 Regina-Kägi-Hof M-1 Schwarzenbachweg N/O-1 Theaterstrasse F/G-5 Wotanstrasse I-5 Begonienstrasse O-3 Edisonstrasse O-2 Gladbachstrasse G-1/H-2 Hügelstrasse C-7 Krönleinstrasse H/I-1 Moosbergerweg M-6 Regina-Kägi-Strasse M-1 Schwendenweg A-4 Therese-Giehse-Strasse N-1 Wuhrstrasse B-4/5 Bellerivestrasse G-7 Eduard-Imhof-Strasse M-1 Glärnischstrasse E-4/5 Hüttisstrasse O-1 Kronenstrasse M/N-6 Moosgutstrasse A/B-7 Reinacherstrasse I-5 Schwingerstrasse N-6/7 Thurgauerstrasse O-1/2 Wunderlistrasse K-4 Bellevueplatz F-5 Eggenschwilerweg N-5 Glasmalergasse C/D-3 Hufgasse G-5 Kügeliloostrasse L/M-1 Morgartenstrasse C-4 Reinhardstrasse G-5/6 Sechseläutenplatz F-5 Thurwiesenstrasse M-5 Wyssenbühlsteig C-7 Belsitostrasse I-3 Eibenstrasse B-5 Gletscherstrasse H-7 Hugostrasse O-2 Künstlergasse F/G-3 Morgenweg J-4 Reishauerstrasse D-1,M-7 Seebahnstrasse A-2/B-4 Tièchestrasse L/M-4 Wyssgasse C-3 Bergstrasse I-3/J-5 Eichstrasse B-6 Gloriasteig H-2/3 Huttensteig G-1, O-7 Künzlistrasse M-2/3 Motorenstrasse L-7 Reitergasse D-2 Seefeldquai G-6/7 Titlisstrasse I-4 Zähringerstrasse F-3 Berneggweg A-5 Eidmattstrasse H/I-5 Gloriastrasse H-2 Huttenstrasse G-1/2 Kurfi rstensteig C-7 Moussonstrasse H-2/3 Rennweg E-3 Seefeldstrasse G-6/H-7 Tobelhofstrasse J-2 Zanggerweg N-5/6 Berninaplatz O-3 Eisengasse G-6 Götzstrasse N/O-6 Idaplatz A-3 Kurhausstrasse J-3 Mühlebachstrasse H-6/I-8 Restelbergstrasse H-1 Seegartenstrasse G-6 Toblerplatz H/I-2 Zederstrasse G/H-3 Berninastrasse N-2/O-3 Eisgasse D-2 Goldauerstrasse O-6 Idastrasse A-3 Kurt-Hirschfeld-Weg N-1/2 Mühlegasse F-3 Ricarda-Huch-Strasse N-1 Seehofstrasse F/G-5 Toblerstrasse H-1/I-2 Zehnderweg F-1/2 Beustweg G/H-4 Ekkehardsteig N-7 Goldbrunnenstrasse A-4/5 Ilanzhofweg N-5 Kurvenstrasse N-7 Mühlesteg E-2/F-2 Richard-Kissling-Weg J-2 Seerosenstrasse F/G-5 Tödistrasse D-5 Zelgstrasse B-4/5 Biberlinstrasse J-5 Ekkehardstrasse N-6/O-7 Goldregenweg M-2 Ilgenstrasse H-4 Kurzgasse C-2 Müllerstrasse C-2-3 Richard-Wagner-Str. D-6/7 Seestrasse D-6 Tramstrasse O-2 Zeltweg G4-H5 Billrothstrasse H-6 Eleonorenstrasse H-3 Gotthardstrasse D-5 Im Birkenhof N-5 Kyburgstrasse L-5 Münchsteig H/I-7 Riedtlistrasse N-6/O-7 Seilergraben F-3 Traubenstrasse D-6 Zentralstrasse A-3/B-4 Billrothweg H-6 Elias-Canetti-Strasse N-1 Gotthelfstrasse B-4 Im Eisernen Zeit N-5/6 Lägernstrasse M-5 Münsterbrücke E-4/F-4 Riesbachstrasse H-7 Selnaustrasse D-3/4 Traugottstrasse K-6 Zeppelinstrasse M/N-5 Binzmühlestrasse M/O-1 Elisabethenstrasse B-3 Grabenwies M-3 Im Hofgarten M-5 Lagerstrasse C/D-2 Münstergasse F-3/4 Rieterplatz C-7 Seminarstrasse M/N-5 Treichlerstrasse H-4 Zeughausstrasse C/D-3 Bionstrasse G-1 Ellen-Widmann-Weg N-1 Granitweg N-7 Im Schilf H-1 Lamprechtweg M/N-1 Münsterhof E-4 Rieterstrasse C-6/7 Sempacherstrasse J-5/6 Trottenstrasse K-5 Zeunersteig L-5 Birchdörfl i M-2 Else-Lasker-Schüler-Weg N-1 Grebelackerstrasse M-4 Im Waidegg M-4 Landenbergstrasse L-5 Museumstrasse E-2 Rigiplatz O-7 Sennhauserweg I-4 Tuggenerstrasse H-7 Zeunerstrasse L-5 Bircher-Benner-Platz I-3 Emil-Oprecht-Platz N-1 Grüngasse C-3 Imfeldsteig M-6 Landisstrasse N-1 Mythenquai D-6 Rigistrasse O-7 Siegfriedstrasse H-7/8 Tuggenerweg H-7 Zimmergasse G-5/6 Birchplatz M/N-2 Emil-Oprecht-Strasse N-1 Grütlistrasse C-6 Imfeldstrasse L/M-6 Landoltstrasse G-1, O-7 Näfgasse H-6 Rindermarkt F-3 Siewerdtstrasse O-1 Tunnelstrasse C/D-5 Zinistrasse C-2 Birchsteg M/N-2 Emil-Rütti-Weg M/N-1 Gubelhangstrasse N-2 Immenweg M-2 Langackerstrasse M/N-4 Nägelistrasse H-3 Ringstrasse N-3 Signaustrasse H-5/6 Turbinenplatz K-6 Zöllystrasse K/L-6 Birchstrasse M-2/N-1 Engelstrasse B-2/3 Gubelstrasse N-2 In Gassen E-4 Langensteinenstrasse O-5 Nansenstrasse O-1/2 Rislingstrasse H-2 Sihlamtsstrasse C/D-4 Turnersteig N/O-7 Zollbrücke E-2 Birmensdorferstrasse B4 Engimattstrasse B-6/C-7 Güetliweg M-1 Inselhofstrasse H-7 Langfurren N-3/4 Narzissenstrasse F-1,O-7 Ritterstrasse H-4 Sihlberg B-5/6 Turnerstrasse N-7 Zollikerstrasse H-5/6 Birnbaumstrasse O-1/2 Englischviertelstrasse H-4/5 Guggachstrasse M/N-4 Irchelstrasse N-5 Langmauerstrasse N-6 Nelkenstrasse F-1,O-7 Robert-Maillart-Strasse M-1 Sihlbrücke D-3 Uetlibergstrasse A-6/B-5 Zollingerweg I-3 Bleicherweg D-5 Engweg N-7 Guggerweg N-4 Irisstrasse H-3 Langstrasse C-1/2, L/M-7 Neptunstrasse H-5 Römerhofplatz I-4 Sihlfeldstrasse A-3 Uhlandstrasse L-5 Zollstrasse D-1 Blümlisalpstrasse O-5/6 Erika-Mann-Weg N-1 Gujerstrasse O-1 Irringersteig G-2 Langwiesstrasse M-1/N-2 Neudorfstrasse O-1 Röntgenplatz L-7 Sihlhallenstrasse C-1/2 Ulmbergstrasse C/D-5 Zschokkestrasse K/L-5 Blütenstrasse O-3 Erikastrasse B-3/4 Gutenbergstrasse C/D-5 Islerstrasse B-7 Laubiweg M-5 Neue Hard K-6/7 Röntgenstrasse C-1,L-6/7 Sihlhölzlibrücke C-4 Ulmenweg N-3 Zürichbergstrasse G-3/I-2 Blumenweg G-6/7 Erismannstrasse A-2 Guthirtstrasse L-5 Jägergasse D-2 Lauff erweg N-5 Neufrankengasse C-1 Röschibachsteig L-5 Sihlhölzlistrasse C/D-4 Ulrichstrasse I-6 Zürichholzstrasse N-3 Bluntschlisteig C/D-6 Erlachstrasse B-4 Habsburgstrasse L-5/6 James-Joyce-Strasse N-1 Laurenzgasse N-7 Neugasse C/D-1,L7 Röschibachstrasse L-5 Sihlpromenade C-4/5 Unionstrasse H-4 Zurlindenstrasse B-4 Bodmerstrasse D-5 Eschenweg N-3 Hadlaubsteig O-6 Jasminweg M-2 Lavaterstrasse D-6 Neugutstrasse C-6/7 Röschibachweg L-5 Sihlquai D/E-1,L-6/M-7 Universitätstrasse G-1/2 Zweierplatz C-3 Böcklinstrasse H-5/I-6 Escher-Wyss-Platz K-6 Hadlaubstrasse H-1/O-5/6 Jenatschstrasse D-5 Lehensteig L-5 Neuhausstrasse I-2 Röslibrunnenweg N/O-6 Sihlquai-Nordrampe K/L-6 Untere Zäune F-3/4 Zweierstrasse A-4/C-3 Börsenstrasse E-4 Eschwiesenstrasse A-3 Häderlihof N-4 Joachim-Hefti-Weg C-6 Lehenstrasse K-5/L-4 Neumarkt F-3 Röslistrasse N/O-6 Sihlquai-Südrampe K/L-6 Uraniastrasse D/E-3 Zwingliplatz F-4 Bolleystrasse G-1-/2 Fabrikstrasse L-6/7 Häldeliweg H-2 Johannes-Ott-Weg M-5 Leimgasse H-7 Neumühlequai E-1/2 Rötelsteig M-5 Sihlstrasse D-3 Urselweg B-2/3 Zwinglistrasse C-2

68 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 69

Index

25hours Hotel Zürich West 61 Gleis 9 38 Och Sport 53 Swiss Casinos 34 Adagio 36 Gonzo 37 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 50 Swiss Shop 1291 (Dolmetsch) 54 Alden 60 Goodman 27 Orsini 25 Tango Argentino Alexander 64 Grossmünster 40 Osteria Leonardo 25 (Noche de Garufa) 36 Alkena 49 Guess Zurich 53 Palais Kraft 63 Tao's 22 Allegra 65 Haifisch 37 Palavrion Bar 35 TAXI 7x7 7 Alter Botanischer Garten 43 Hamam Münstergasse 45 Partime 56 Taxi 444 7 Ambassador à l'Opéra 61 Haus Hiltl 31 Petra's Tip Top Bar 66 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 54 Amden 46 Heaven 66 Pizza Pasta Ciao! 49 Teuscher Confiserie 52 Au Premier 22 Hitzberger 30 Plaza 37 The Bite 21 Avis 7 Hottingen 65 Rage 66 The Lion 36 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour IRO 51 Rainbowline 66 The North Face Store 53 43 Iroquois 21 RAMADA Hotel Zürich City 63 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 45 Beyer 56 IWC Boutique 56 Rec Rec 50 Thermalbad Zurzach 45 Billiardino 35 Jade 37 Rheinfelder Bierhalle 30 tibits 31 Bodega Espanola 26 Jägerburg 28 Rive Gauche 33 Tina bar 34 Bohemia 27 Jelmoli 50 Rolli's Steakhouse 38 Tom Ford 52 Boutique Roma 51 Jungfraujoch - Top of Europe 46 Rote Fabrik 35 Tritt-Käse 55 Bowling West 35 Kai 38 Salsamania 36 Turm 23 Brasserie Federal 30 Karma International 51 Sauna Seebad Enge 46 Uetliberg 40 Bristol 64 Kauz 35 Saus und Braus - shop for Unirent 7 Café des Amis 32 Kindercity 41, 49 design 54 Veltlinerkeller 30 Calypso 37 King's Cave 27 Schilthorn - Piz Gloria 47 Villa & Park Patumbah 43 Caran d'Ache 55 King's Club 37 Schweizer Heimatwerk 54 Welschland 55 Casa Ferlin 24 Kon-TiKi 34 Senator 64 Widder 34, 60 Cashmere Lovers 51 Körry - Art of Wurst 30 Sheraton Zurich Hotel 64 Wings 33 Central 33 Kronenhalle 28 Sihlcity 53 Yooji's Bahnhofstrasse 25 Central Plaza 62 Kulturama - Museum of Sihlpost 10 Youth Hostel 65 Chäsalp 24 Mankind 41 Skating rink Dolder 46 Zeughauskeller 31 Chopard Boutique 56 Kunsthaus 41 Skating rink Heuried 49 Zoological and Paleontological CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 56 Künzli 53 Sorell Seefeld 65 Museums of the University of City Backpacker 65 Labo Spa 45 Sorell Zürichberg 64 Zurich 48 Clouds 26 La Catrina 35 Sprüngli 32 Zum Grobe Ernst 26 Club Tango Argentino 36 Läderach Chocolatier Suisse 52 Starkart 51 Zum Grünen Glas 26 Collana 32 Lady's First 64 Sternen Grill 30 Zurich Marriott Hotel 60 Commercio 24 Lake Zurich Cruises 39 Stoos 47 Zurich Trolley Experience 43 Commihalle 24 La Soupière 23 Stories of the Old Town - Zurich Zoo 48 Cooper's Pub 38 Le Calvados 33 Guided walk 43 Züri rollt - bikes for free 7 Courtyard by Marriott Zurich Le Cèdre - Bellevue 26 St. Peter 43 North 62 Le Dézaley 24 Cranberry 66 Les Ambassadeurs 56 Criz 54 Les Halles 26 FEATURES INDEX Crowne Plaza 62 Lily's 21 Didi's Frieden 23 Lindenhof 40 Adult entertainment 37 Die Zukunft 36 Lotti's Welt 49 DuDa 34 Lucid 33 Art market 51 Elm 46 Ly's Asia 22 Billiards & Bowling 35 Engelberg - Titlis Rotair 46 Maison Manesse 23 Breakfast 32 Escher Wyss 36 Making Things 52 Casino 34 Europaallee Passage 52 Mamma Mia 38 Cinemas 17 Exil 35 Männerzone 66 Fabric Frontline 55 Manor 50 Contemporary architecture 42 Felix am Bellevue 32 Marché Mövenpick Zürich 28 Decoding the menu 22 Fondue ship 45 Markthalle 29 Cheese restaurants 24 Fondue tram 45 Marta 65 Lake Zurich 39 Franz Carl Weber 49 Meister 56 Live music venues 35 Fraumünster 39 Meng Cutlery 54 Meet the receptionist 62 Fridays' night @ Mère Catherine 23 bananenreiferei 36 Milchbar Bellevue 29 Quick eats 30 Fujiya of Japan 25 Mohrenkopf 29 Shopping around Langstrasse 54 galerie gmurzynska 51 Museum Rietberg 42 Smart phoning 9 Gartenhof 28 Nachtjäger 35 Swiss cuisine 28 gaymeboys.com online National Museum 42 Swiss chocolate 52 magazine 66 Navyboot 54 Thermal baths 45 Gemeinschaftszentren 48 Nelson 36 Giacometti murals 39 Nomos Glashütte 56 Useful Zurich apps 8 Giesserei 38 Nonam 42 Watches 58 Glärnischhof 62 Novotel Zürich City-West 63 Zurich in 48 hours 40

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February - March 2014 73 Stadt Zürich | Zurich City

37 2 Chrüzächer Holzerhurd Friedhof OPFIKON

32 Schwandenholz SOUVENIRS SOUVENIRS Buhnstr. Aspholz 29 Lindbergh- Giebeleichstr. platz Fronwald Staudenbühl 75 Blumen-feldstr. Bahnhof Lindbergh-Allee 491 61 768 Hungerbergstr. StierenriedHimmeri 62 Seebacherplatz Glattpark Hürstholz 29 Chavez-Allee

Zehntenhausplatz 75 Bhf. Seebach 61 S6 Fernsehstudio Einfangstr. 12 WHATEVER YOU WANT Glaubtenstr. 64 Neun- Felsenrain- 111 110 Maillart- brunnen Kehricht- Grünwald str. str. 11 Bollinger- verbrennung Schauen- 32 berg weg Bhf. Oerlikerhus Orionstr. Mötteliweg 14 Auzelg Heizenholz Oerlikon Leutschen- Lerchenhalde Riedbach Rütihof weg Nord bach Lerchen- 62 Chalet- 75 781 rain Hagenholz 79 Giblenstr. Schumacher- Auzelg Ost 46 weg Glaubten- 80 Geeringstr. 485 Schützenhaus str. Süd Birchstr. Bhf. Höngg 80 Oerlikon S8 S14 Riedhofstr. Neu- Platz 61 Ost 37 Oberwiesen-Max-Bill- Friedhof Hallenbad RiedgrabenSaatlenstr.Dreispitz Aubrücke 89 affoltern str. Hönggerberg Bahnhof 94 Oerlikon 94 308 40 Oerlikon 63 Schürgi- 01 304 Michelstr. Althoos Frankental ETH 11 str. 11 Segantinistr.Singlistr. Hönggerberg Messe|Hallenstadion Wiesler- Maienweg 62 63 Herzogenmühlestr. gasse 69 Birchdörfli Sternen Dorflinde Herbstweg 61 Kappen- Höngger- Krematorium Oerlikon berg Tulpenstr. 9 7 Winzerstr. bühlweg Nordheim Regensberg- 61 87 Zwiel- Friedacker- Heerenwiesen Wartau platz Nordheim- brücke str. Winzerstr. Süd 80 Im Wingert str. Luegis-land 38 Berufswahl- Bad Allenmoos Industrie GaswerkHohenklingen- schule Salersteig Schörlistr. Meierhof- 13 steig Appenzellerstr. platz Am Waidbadstr. Juchhof Börtli Berninaplatz 62 Pflege- - Winzerhalde 154 Schwert zentrum Radiostudio 61 hölzli Käferberg Hirsch- Wald- 110 LIMMAT Kempfhofsteig Roswiesen Waidspital wiesenstr. Garten Bändliweg 7 Rebberg- 69 S3 steig Glattwiesen Alte Weiher- Frohburg Schwamendingerplatz 40 10 S12 Trotte Tierspital Probstei Bhf. Altstetten78 steig Friedrichstr. Vulkanstr. 89 Lehen- 7 Grünaustr. 304 Escher- str. gutweg 17 Buchegg- Milchbuck Mattenhof platz Bahnhof Altstetten Tüffenwies Rosen- Strickhof Bahnhof Waid- Universität Nord fussweg gartenstr. 72 9 Irchel Stettbach Hardhof S16 Wipkinger- Guggach- 15 32 39 Hardturm S7 platz str. Schanzackerstr. S9 S15 Langensteinenstr. Bernoulli- S6 Laubi- Häuser weg Lang- S5 71 str. Schäppiweg Nüren- mauer- bergstr. Lägern- Germaniastr.Rigiblick str. Schaffhauser- 78 Würzgraben Bahnhof platz Förrlibuckstr. Letzistr. Aargauerstr. S14 33 23 89 80 Wipkingen Spyristeig 35 Sportweg Rotbuchstr. Rösli- Scheuch- Kinkelstr. S8 zerstr. Hadlaubstr. Toni-Areal str. Baslerstr. Fischerweg S2 Nordstr. 14 Krönleinstr. Seilbahn Rigiblick Solidapark Luggweg- 4 Lettenstr. Kronenstr. Ottiker- Goldauerstr. 95 str. 46 str. Technopark Seilbahn Rigiblick Escher-Wyss-Platz Heubeeriweg Letzipark Schiffbau Okenstr. Beckenhof SBB-Werk- 4 2 stätte 9 Vogelsangstr. Flobotstr. Damm-weg Sonnegg- Herdern- 39 str. str. str. Museum f. Spyriplatz Gestaltung Winkel- Grimselstr. Letzipark Hardplatz Quellen- Landes- Stampfenbach- riedstr. Zoo 89 West museum Kappeli Bhf. Hardbrücke Sihlquai|HB platz Bethanien 6 31 Limmat-platz Freihofstr. 4 10 Susenbergstr. Albis- 72 rank Güter- Bahnhofquai|HB Haldenegg Halden- Hinter- Letzigrund Röntgenstr. bahnhof Bahnhofplatz|HB bach bergstr. 15 Zürichbergstr. Krematorium Albisriederplatz Bäcker- Central 3 33 Löwenplatz 6 anlage 8 13 46 Toblerplatz Siemens 33 - Militär-|Langstr. Kirche Bircher-Benner

17 7 platz 751 Hubertus Zypressen- ETH| str. Polyterrasse gasse 10 Kanonen- 24 Universitäts- Kernstr. Polybahn spital Langgrüt- Lochergut 5 Waldhaus Friedhof Kalk- Bezirks- 31 33 breite Dolder Sihlfeld gebäude Sihlpost 25 str. Bertastr. Bahnhof- Voltastr. Hofstr. 89 Goldbrunnen- Stauffacher 3 Gutstr. str.|HB Neumarkt Bergstation 4 Platte 33 Titlisstr.

Im Gut 6 11 Talwiesen- Zwingli- Buchholz bergerstr.Schaufel- platz Rudolf- Klosbach Heuried haus 2 Rennweg Kantonsschule 32 Werd Sihlstr. Brun-Brücke Schmiede 14 Limmatquai str. Wiedikon Bahnhof Wiedikon Kunsthaus Römerhof 67 76 Dolderbahn Zentrum 14 8 Hölderlinsteig Bahnhof66 Rathaus 9 Selnau Storchen Hottingerplatz 215|245 Helmhaus Hölderlinstr. Sprecher

350 91 Paradeplatz str. 3 220 Bahnhof Englisch- Klusplatz 15 753 8 Stadelhofen viertelstr. 235 S10 Brand- Börsenstr. 786 Bhf. Enge|Bederstr. schenkestr. S4 2 747 89 Stockerstr. Triemli- Höfliweg 32 76 Hürlimann- 7 9 spital Waffenplatzstr. platz 15 11 S18 S10 Manesse- Tunnelstr. Triemli Schweighof platz Signaustr. Kapfstr. Schlyfi Str. 5 Waserstr.

Binz 6 73 Botanischer31 Drusbergstr. Räffelstr. Sihlcity Bellevue Opern- Hegibach- Carl-Spitteler- platz haus Kreuzplatz Freiestr. Paulus- Nord Bürkliplatz 91 Grubenstr. Giesshübel 72 Garten Friesenbergstr. Akademie SaalsporthalleSihlcity Kreuzstr. Bahnhof 912 Hedwigsteig Segeten Enge Rentenanstalt Wetlistr.

S24 Feldegg- 916 916 11 SOUVENIRS, GIFTS AND CUTLERY Binz Museum str. S6 THE BEST CHOICE OF IN TOWN: Friedhof Schweizer Burgwies Center Rietberg 33 Altenhofstr.

Uetliberg S21 200 Rück S7 912 77 Im Hagacker S16 Balgrist S8

161 Enge Hafen Wonnebergstr.

Hügelstr. 66 4

5 S2 Friedhof 89 Brunaustr. Sukkulenten- Enzenbühl Laubegg sammlung Flühgasse Hegian- 32 Brunau| 2 wandweg Brunau 165 Uetlihof Epi-Klinik 17 Höschgasse 444 Mutschel- Billoweg Landiwiese Elektrowatt lenstr. Strassen- 15 Tram (Nr. 2–17) Tram (nos. 2–17)

verkehrsamt 72 Fröhlichstr. Im Walder 66 Bus (Nr. 29–916) Bus (nos. 29–916) 13 445 Thujastr. Bleulerstr. 110 Chinagarten Wollishofen Schiffstation S8 S-Bahn S-Bahn train 140 Albisgütli Wildbachstr. BahnhofDurchmesserlinie (DML) Cross-city link Rennweg 31, 8001 Zürich Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8001 Zürich Besenrainstr. Bahnhof Tiefenbrunnengültig ab 15.6.2014 in operation from 15.6.2014 Wollishofen 910 24 Bergbahn Cable car/funicular S4 Jugend- Poststrasse 4, 8001 Zürich [email protected] herberge Zürichsee Schiff Lake Zurich boat 200 Post Wollishofen Rote Fabrik Zürichhorn Casino 444 Verenastr. Butzenstr. Limmatschiff Limmat river boat [email protected] www.messer-scharf.ch Morgental 45 Endhaltestelle Terminus 70 Haltestelle nur in Bus stop only for www.mengcutlery.ch Pfeilrichtung bedient direction shown 66 Seerose ZÜRICHSEE Linie verkehrt nur Bus only travels in Manegg in einer Richtung one direction here 7 110 Kalchbühlweg Tarifzone ZVV ZVV fare zone 70 ZOLLIKON150 Wald Woodland Frymannstr. Wollishofen 184 Stadtgrenze ©ZVV|VBZ|12.2013 0 110 1 ST PRIZE IN THE CLASSIC CATEGORY WITH THE TISSOT T-COMPLICATION CHRONOMETER

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