CITY GUIDE 2013

BR City Guide Benefiting from the expertise and Western media standards of a mixed local and expat team of journalists, Bucharest City Guide brings you the must-read insider’s lowdown on what to see, where to eat and what to do in ’s vibrant capital city. With a portable and easy-to-use format, the guide is divided into four sections and features two maps. The sections are: Tourist Info – how to get around Bucharest; Sightseeing – with subsections on Landmarks, Byzantine Bucharest, Museums, Souvenir Shops and Guided Tours; Old Town – the historical zone bustling with restaurants, bars, terraces and cafes at the very heart of the city, with accompanying map; and Restaurants – our recommenda- tions of the best places to eat, organized by type of cuisine (including the top restaurants serving Romanian food). Venues are marked on the map by symbols reflecting the type of establishment they represent. Business Review – Romania’s premier English-language business weekly – has been covering the local economy and financial environment, within a broader socio-cultural perspective, for more than 15 years.

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Published by Bloc Notes Media Debbie Stowe, Oana Vasiliu Editors: Scan to Cover Photo: Mihai Constantineanu download Art director: Alexandru Oriean the guide Production manager: Dan Mitroi Sales: Oana Molodoi • Publisher: Anca Ionita Contacts: Editorial: [email protected] Sales: [email protected] www.business-review.eu

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 1 TOURIST INFO

The airport is also connected Arrival to Bucharest by railway line. The service is not regular and Airport: Otopeni a minibus is required to get to Commercial flights to Bucharest the airport station. Few pas- now all land at Henri Coanda sengers favor this option. (generally known as Otopeni), 17 km north of the city. Taxis, trains Railway: Gara de Nord and buses go to the city center. If you arrive in Bucharest by Ignore any taxi drivers who may train it will most likely be at assail you as you make your way Gara de Nord. There are ATMs, through the Arrivals terminal. shops, kiosks and fast-food Touch screens in the terminal restaurants. If you’re hailing a now allow you to book a taxi taxi, walk some distance from from a company of your choice, the station first, as the drivers and give you the time it will take that loiter in this area will rip to arrive, tariff and cab number. you off. To get to the airport The car will collect you outside from Gara de Nord, take bus 780. and the journey should not cost more than about RON 40. A cheaper alternative is taking PUBLIC TRANSPORT bus 783, which stops in front of the Domestic Arrivals hall and Subway goes to the city center, stopping Open: daily, 05:00 - 23:00; at Victoriei Square, Romana Tickets: RON 4 (90 cents)/ Square, Universitatii Square and roundtrip; RON 6 (about terminating at Unirii Square. 1.25 euros) daily card Buses run 24 hours a day. The 780 bus connects the airport The metro system is the cheapest with the central train station, and easiest way to get around if Gara de Nord. An express bus you don’t know Bucharest and journey costs RON 7 (travel also the quickest, although the within the city is cheaper) and network is not comprehensive. you need to purchase a recharge- There are four lines, numbered able card before boarding. The from M1 to M4. It’s particularly card costs RON 3.7 and can be useful for north-south journeys topped up at any ticket kiosk along the central axis of squares in Bucharest. It’s valid on all (M2), mainly Unirii to Aviatorilor. means of transport in the capital Tickets are on sale from kiosks - buses, trams and metro - and near the ticket barriers and must be swiped either at the most trains have maps. For the barrier or once on board. local version of an Oyster card,

2 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 TOURIST INFO constantineanu h ai mi which can also be used also autocobalcescu for buses and trams, ask for Phone: 021.9451 instructions at the ticket kiosks. Rate: RON 1.39 / km

Buses and trams cris taxi Open: 5:00 - 23:00 Phone: 021.9466 Tickets: RON 1.3 for urban lines; Rate: RON 1.39 / km RON 3.5 for express lines Leone Buses and trams are more Phone: 021.9425 comprehensive and frequent. Rate: RON 1.39 / km You can buy electronic passes charged with a certain number Meridian of journeys which must be Phone: 021.9444 touched in on board; most Rate: RON 1.4 / km stops have a ticket kiosk. Crime & Safety TAXIS Bucharest is generally con- Taxis, which are still cheap sidered a safe city, and while by Western standards, can be you should be aware of petty booked by phone, hailed on the crime and pickpocketing on street or found at taxi ranks (the public transport or in busy most central one is located next parts of town, violent crimes to the Intercontinental Hotel). are a rarer occurrence than If you don’t book, be sure to in Western European cities. choose a reputable cab – look for Stray dogs are a feature of the tariff displayed on the door, Romania’s capital, so don’t which should be RON 1.39 (less be surprised if you encounter than 50 cents) per km. A higher them. They usually present no rate of RON 3.5 per km is charged danger, but beware of packs. by a few companies. These are To report an incident or summon the taxi companies that we rec- the Police, Ambulance or Fire ommend for booking by phone: Brigade, call 112, free of charge.

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 3 sightseeing

Romania’s checkered history is written large on the face of its capital city, which boasts an eclectic mishmash of architectural styles and eye-catching structures. It’s worth taking a while to stroll through the center of town; almost any wander will take you past some striking and attractive buildings. However, there are a few landmarks that merit being sought out. Most are on or around , one of the city’s two main north-south thoroughfares, so easily seen on a walking tour. mi h ai constantineanu

The Athenaeum the main concert hall of the Enescu Festival

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 5 for an opportunity to admire Landmarks the fabulous frescoes.

Arch of Triumph Botanical Garden Piata Arcul de Triumf, 32 Sos. , 021.410.91.39, Sos. Kiseleff www.gradina-botanica.ro

One of the first flagship pieces of A wonderful green space in the Bucharest architecture visitors heart of the city, easy to find see en route into town from the and accessible. Founded more airport, the current struc­ture than 150 years ago, the garden dates from 1936, though the was completed in 1866 to the site has hosted an arch since design of Ulrich Hoffmann. a wooden one was thrown up Today, it covers more than 17 to commemorate Romania’s hectares and hosts more than independence in 1878. 10,000 species of plant, half Soldiers still parade beneath of which are cultivated in the to mark Romania’s national impressive glasshouses.

tseeing day, and the arch is also a h favorite for wedding photos. CEC Palace /

sig The Savings Bank The Ark Calea Victoriei, opposite 196 A Calea Rahovei, the History Museum Uranus- area, www.theark.ro Built in 1900, this must rank as one of the most attrac- Bucharest’s old Commodities tive banks anywhere. Stock Exchange is a historical Capped by a dome, it features building encapsulating 19th- an eclectic array of archi- century industrial architecture, tectural styles and exudes a rarely seen style in Romania. Renaissance elegance. The only part left from the Arches, columns and spires all former building is the facade. Currently, The Ark is a multi- purpose space that is used 24/7 as a coffee shop, bar-restaurant and exhibition space. mi

The Athenaeum h ai 1-3 Franklin St, opposite constantineanu the Hilton Hotel

Probably the city’s most beauti- ful building, the Athenaeum is a neoclassical delight. It opened in 1888 after being made possible by public French architect Paul Guttereau donations. Catch a concert designed the CEC Palace building

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mi tseeing h h ai constantineanu sig

Cantacuzino Palace is on the European World Heritage List

compete for your attention. Museum / When lit up at night it is glorious. Cantacuzino Palace 141 Calea Victoriei, The Central Army House 021.318.14.50, Junction of Regina Elisabeta www.georgeenescu.ro and Calea Victoriei Romania’s most illustrious Also known as Cercul Militar, musical son is celebrated more this striking neoclassical famously in the biannual structure is about to celebrate festival, but his museum is its centenary. Built to cater to housed in the Cantacuzino the nation’s soldiers, it resonates Palace, a lesser known with military gravitas. Unless Bucharest gem. you’re a Romanian military it’s Dating back to the early 20th largely off limits, although it is century and resulting from sometimes possible to visit the an architectural collabora- restaurant (but don’t expect tion, sculptures adorn the the food to match the high elegant façade, creating a standards of the building!). truly impressive spectacle.

8 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 Patriarchal Cathedral 21 St.

Considered one of the most valuable historical monuments of Wallachian religious art of the 17th century, the site has been the center of the since those days and houses the cathedral and the residence of the head of the church, Patriarch Daniel Ciobotea. Although the building has had a number of facelifts, the majority of the cathedral’s sig structure is still original, built Bucharest between 1654 and 1658. h City Tour tseeing People’s Palace The 15 kilometer tourist route 2-4 Izvor St, 021.316.03.00, is served by four double- www.casapoporului.ro decker buses with a capacity of 77 seats each. Bucharest Though often dubbed a mon- City Tour has 14 designated strosity and a monument to bus stops serving the major Ceausescu’s megalomania, there landmarks: the Peasant is no denying that the dictator’s Museum, , vanity project, whose records Parlia­­­ment Palace, Bucharest include the world’s largest civil- Museum and Romanian ian administrative building, Patriarchy. More destinations most expensive administrative will be unveiled during the bus building and heaviest build- ride, and tickets for the tour ing, is a memorable edifice. are valid for 24 hours, allowing The tour, wich now features passengers to hop on and hop the roof and basement, off at will. is well worth taking. Buses on the Bucharest City Tour line run from 10:00-22:00. A double-decker will circulate Byzantine every 15 minutes, touring the Bucharest capital in 50 min. A travel card costs RON 25 for adults and RON 10 for children between 47 Calea Victoriei the ages of 7 and 14. Children under 7 accompanied by an Constructed in 1722 in the adult travel free. The card is Brancoveanu style, the red- available for 24 hours from brick church was built by boyar its first validation and can be Kretzulescu, one of Prince bought on board. Brancoveanu’s sons-in-law.

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 9 courtesy of stavropoleos tseeing h sig

Stavropoleos Monastery’s carved wood iconostas is a must see

The exterior frescoes have depicting biblical scenes and been preserved in their original the carved wood iconostasis, state, while the interior was the among which one can admire work of a famous 19th-century the bi-cephalous eagle, the painter, Gheorghe Tattarascu. emblem of Byzantium. The building gets a three-star men- tion in the Michelin travel guide. 4 Stavropoleos, 021.313.47.47 www.stavropoleos.ro Stavropoleos Collection 4 Stavropoleos, 021.313.47.47 Built in 1724, Stavropoleos www.stavropoleos.ro Church is one of the most outstanding examples of the Within the monastery precincts Brancoveanu style – an original are a library and a refectory synthesis of Eastern displaying a small but valu- and Western architecture cre- able collection of old religious ated under Prince Constantin objects, which includes Brancoveanu’s reign (1688- painted on wood and glass, 1714). The vegetal motifs which religious artifacts, decorative adorn the façade and the loggia art and fragments of fresco blend harmoniously with the recovered from churches demol- interior and exterior frescoes ished during the communist

10 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 Roșia Montană Gold Corporation brings back to life the beauty of Roșia Montană

Roșia Montană Gold Corporation (RMGC) has already restored 20 old houses in the historic centre of Roșia Montană; In 2010, RMGC opened a modern exhibition of mining history within the rst property restored by the company; RMGC has been working on researching and restoring the Roman Gallery Cătălina-Monulești; The mining company has another 110 buildings in the pipeline for restoration; RMGC currently employs several hundred people to carry out restoration works.

And this is just the beginning. The mining project proposed by Roșia Montană Gold Corporation in the Apuseni Mountains will help preserving the 2000-year history of Roșia Montană, while bringing economic benets and thousands of jobs for Romania. Mining builds the future of Roșia Montană, just like it’s built its past.

www.rmgc.ro regime. The monastery’s library holds over 10,000 books and Museums manuscripts, including titles on theology. A catalog with all Art Collections Museum religious objects and manu- 111 Calea Victoriei, Mon-Sat, scripts is for sale at the entrance 11:00 – 19:00, in the church. For guided tours www.mnar.arts.ro of the collection, book an appointment at manastireast- Established in 1978, the Art [email protected]. Collections Museum is housed by the former neoclassical style Romanian Medieval Art Romanit Palace, built in 1812 Gallery by boyar Constantin Facca. The Within the National Art Museum museum currently holds 42 of Romania, 49-53 Calea private collections with over Victoriei, 12,000 works donated to the www.mnar.ro Romanian State between 1927 and 2002. With local art well

tseeing Holding the largest collection represented (through valuable h of its kind in Romania, the samples of icons on glass and

sig museum’s more than 9,500 wood, ceramics, furniture, as works include icons, fresco well as 18th- and 19th-century fragments, embroideries and textiles) the museum also textiles, religious manuscripts holds noteworthy works by and rare books, silver, jewelry, French, Flemish and Dutch woodcarvings, metalwork artists, including masterpieces and ceramics. On display is a by Gustave Courbet, Camille selection of approximately 900 Pissarro, Antoine Bourdelle, works, spanning five centuries David Teniers the Younger of artistic achievement, from and Vincent van Gogh. the late 14th century through The recently restored A Wing to the early 19th century. occasioned the reopening of its cellars to the public. The three St George The New Church vaulted rooms, with niches Located between Pta Unirii (in the fake brickwork walls) and Universitate, marking the ending in pointed arches, host very center of Bucharest the Lapidarium – an important part of the stone sculpture Built by Brancoveanu himself in collection of the Romanian 1707, the church has been one Medieval Art Gallery. of the most important buildings in the capital for almost two Antipa Museum centuries. After several fires and 1 Sos. Kiseleff, earthquakes, it was rebuilt in the 021.312.88.63, early 20th century based on the www.antipa.ro initial plans, with a 12-column loggia. The martyr Prince Created almost 100 years ago at Brancoveanu is buried here. the intiative of Grigore Antipa,

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MNAC of courtesy tseeing h

sig Mircea Cantor’s exhibition at The Contemporary Art Museum

the Romanian biologist known display. Although getting there for the invention of the dio- requires some effort, it’s worth rama, the National Museum of the trip since the museum’s Natural History hosts perma- roof terrace offers one of the nent exhibitions of Romanian best aerial views of Bucharest fauna and animals. Over 2 million exhibits are gathered in different thematic collections: and Museum zoology, paleontology, miner- 1 Geniului Blv, als, rocks and ethnography. 021.317.31.06, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro Contemporary Art Museum People’s Palace, 2-4 Izvor St, Built between 1679 and 1681 by wing E4, entrance from Calea 13 Prince Șerban Cantacuzino in Septembrie, the baroque style of the time, www.mnac.ro the Cotroceni complex served as the official residence of dif- Located in Ceausescu’s con- ferent rulers. Queen Mary left troversial mammoth building, her unmistakable mark on the the museum hosts temporary place, which bears the proof of modern art exhibitions in its her artistic affinities. Cotroceni vast halls, which create a strange is the only official residence yet welcoming space. The gallery in Romania that has been also contains one of the most used for over four centuries, interesting communist kitsch art with the palace and medieval collections, unfortunately not on cellars still existing today.

14 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013

National History Museum 12 Calea Victoriei, 021.315.82.07, www.mnir.ro

From prehistoric times, through the gold treasury of Dacian tribes and the Roman Conquest to the modern era, the museum’s 60 halls exhibit historical artifacts, documents and art that connect us to the cradle of European civilization in the neolithyc age (6,500-3,500 BC), located on today’s Romanian territory.

Romanian Peasant Museum 3 Sos Kiseleff, , tseeing constantineanu 021.317.96.60, h 021.317.96.61, www. h ai mi sig muzeultaranuluiroman.ro Roman emperor Trajan’s statue guards the entrance to the With an average of 3,500 tour- History Museum ists visiting each month, the museum was recently awarded National Art Museum TripAdvisor’s Certificate for (MNAR) Excellence 2013. It was not the 49-53 Calea Victoriei, venue’s first accolade: it took the 021.313.30.30, European Museum of the Year www.mnar.ro Award in 1996 for its “wonder- ful collections of objects … Besides its European Art gallery, presented and interpreted with the museum located in the Royal exceptional imagination and Palace holds the most impor- skill, in an original style with tant collection of Romanian great impact on the visitor.” The modern art, with 8,600 paint- extensive collection, housed in ings and 2,000 sculptures a Neo-Romanian-style historical (including works by Brancusi). building, developed out of the Approximately 700 exhibits first autonomous museum for offer an overview of the evolu- peasant art, which was estab- tion of artistic trends from the lished in 1906. Today the venue early 19th century – when art is also an urban socializing spot, in Romania became entirely with a terrace serving Romanian secular – through to the late 19th food, an open-air cinema and to early 20th century, the age of a highly regarded shop with the great masters of national art. traditional ceramics, icons and For the Medieval Art Collection, textiles, including the famous see Byzantine Bucharest. Romanian blouse, the “ie”.

16 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 tseeing h The Theodor Aman Museum is housed in a neoclassical-style palazzo

sig from the mid 19th century

Theodor Aman Museum traditional Romanian village 8 C.A. Rosetti St, 021.314.58.12, life. Covering over 100,000 Tue-Sun, 09:00 – 17:00 sqm, it contains an estimated www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro 300 authentic peasant farms and houses brought from all An important 19th-century over Romania and reassembled painter and the founder of bit by bit­­ in the park, clustered the first Fine Arts Academy, and arranged to show the real Theodor Aman (1831-1891) was pattern of Romanian villages. the owner and architect of this neoclassical palazzo, which served both as his studio and Guided Tours home. The studio, which was also used as an exhibition space Bucharest City Tour for his paintings, was recon- 021.232.03.31, 0735.525.710 structed by the curators as it was www.bucharestcitytour.com, depicted in many of his works. Cost: from EUR 29 Tour type: Panoramic & Village Museum Mogosoaia Palace Tour / Snagov 28-30 Sos. Kiseleff, Monastery Tour / Walking Tour 021.317.91.03, www.muzeul-satului.ro To explore interesting sites and hear the story of the “Little The Village Museum is an Paris”, this is where to come. open-air ethnographic museum Generally, the fee includes pick- in Herastrau Park, showcasing up and drop-off at your location

18 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 in Bucharest, transport by car/ discovery into Communist minibus, a map of the city and Bucharest and the daily life guide services in English. of the city’s inhabitants.

Bucharest Tours and Guided Bucharest Excursions http://guided-bucharest.com, 021.322.89.94, 0744.510.195, 0745.593.938, 0744.314.110 www.bucharesttours.ro; Cost: Free tour Costs: from EUR 25 (RON 100) Tour type: walking tour, bike tour Tour type: panoramic Starting time: 18.00 every day tour, Bucharest in depth, three museums in one day, Over the course of more than Bucharest evening tour two hours, explore the eclec- tic architecture and hidden The basic tour includes a attractions of the city, while sig two-and-a-half-hour drive unraveling the stories of through the city center and key old and new Bucharest. h tseeing neighborhoods of Bucharest, providing a dramatic overview Historic Houses of of some of the most beauti- Bucharest ful and ancient architecture http://historo.wordpress.com, in Europe. The tour operators 0728.323.272 promise that you will discover Cost: from EUR 7 (RON 35) the dramatic, often tumultu- Tour type: architectural ous history of Bucharest and Bucharest of different periods Romania, ranging from the bat- tles of the Middle Ages through Valentin Mandache offers expert the monarchy, and Communist advisory services on histori- rule into the present. cal properties in Romania. His tours impart commentary and Cultural Travel and Tours analysis on period buildings, www.cttours.ro, 021.336.31.63, architectural heritage and the 0724.718.848 traditional habitats of Romania’s Cost: from EUR 29, depending on historical provinces, tracing the the tour type and group number life story of some of Bucharest’s Tour type: Past and Present most fascinating buildings. in Bucharest Architecture, On the Banks of the Dambovita River, Spiritual Break, Dracula’s Original Haunts, Art & History

These niche tours allow par- ticipants to discover something more specific. They range from explorations of the city’s arts, mediaeval history, commer- cial past and eclectic French Tours bring alive Bucharest’s architecture to a journey of period details

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 19 old town

“A charming, walkable quarter with enough worthy distrac- tions to keep you occupied for the day and enough bars and clubs to ensure you never have to sleep, ” is how the BBC travel journalist Mark Baker describes the most vibrant part of Bucharest. This thriving pedestrian area at the very heart of the city, with its intricate narrow streets full of small shops, terraces, cafés, bars and restaurants, is also the place where several layers of 550 years of Bucha- rest’s documented history overlap, conveying the image of a city in constant transformation. The 16th-century ruins of the Old Princely Court (Curtea Veche), the capital city of Wallachian princes since Vlad the Impaler (Dracula), lay in the vicinity of underground mural remains of 17th-century buildings. The archeological site on the main street of Lip- scani brings to light the red-brick ruins of one of the many inns built in this area, which got its name from the town of Lipsca (Leipzig). The German city was at that time the trading partner for the local merchants and artisans who had their busy shops on what was, from the mid 16th to late 19th century, the most important commercial area of Bucharest. The narrow streets around the Old Court were named after the artisan guilds that had their workshops here. Many churches and monasteries, built in the local Brancovenesc architectural style, dot the Old Town. Also known as the town of inns, the neoclassical facades of the buildings erected after 1850 are part of the mod- ernization of the capital city under the rule of King Carol I. All important historical buildings constructed during this time on the ruins of old inns, from the Central Bank to the National History Museum, were designed by French and German architects.

20 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 o l d to w n mi h ai constantineanu

The carved wood galleries of Manuc Inn are a unique feature of the most important landmark of the Old Town

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 21 Landmarks

The Central Bank – BNR 25 Lipscani St, 021.313.04.10, www.bnr.ro

­Possibly the Old Town’s flagship landmark, the headquarters of BNR – Romania’s National Bank – is another neoclassi- cal masterpiece, again with Lapidarium at Old Princely Court French architects at the helm. Constructed in 1885, the slice of Bucharest history. Built building boasts Corinthian during the reign of Vlad III (aka columns and marble halls Dracula), it has since undergone inside. Though its size and restoration. Hitherto overlooked smartness put it somewhat at as a tourist attraction, efforts odds with ramshackle Lipscani, to improve and promote the its grandeur is not dented. Old Town should see Curtea Veche gain a deserved foot- Manuc Inn / hold on the visitor’s map. Hanul lui Manuc 62-64 Franceza St, Stavropoleos 0769.075.844, Monastery www.hanulluimanuc.ro See Sightseeing 4 Stavropoleos St, n Built in 1806 near the Old www.stavropoleos.ro

w Princely Court by an Armenian merchant known as Manuc The Street Inn / d to l Bei, the wooden inn’s open Hanul cu Tei o architecture, with its galleries 63-65 Lipscani St, that look upon a generous inner courtyard, was innovative for its One of the few well preserved time. Recently reopened after street inns, Hanul cu Tei was renovation works, the histori- built in 1833 by two merchants, cal building today houses two Anastasie Hagi Gheorghe Polizu restaurants - one Lebanese, the and Stefan Popovici, who other Romanian - and a café. owned several shops located over high-ceilinged cellars. Old Princely Court / Both the Lipscani and Blanari Curtea Veche Street entrances are guarded by 27-31 Franceza St, tall iron gates that used to be 021.314.03.75 closed by night, for the safety of travelers and goods. Today, the Dating back to the 15th century, inn hosts art galleries, antique the Old Princely Court is a real shops, cafés and restaurants.

22 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 Where future meets the past o

The best way to pay in Bucharest l d to Bucharest’s Old Town is the place where the capital city’s ­­553- w

year history blends harmoniously with the vibrant rhythms of n the 21st century. Sit and admire the slender silhouette of the Old Princely Court ruins from the open terrace of a trendy restaurant. In a space where tradition and change merge seamlessly, using your Visa card instead of cash to pay the restaurant bill feels like the natural choice.

The vast majority of the coffee shops, terraces and restaurants in Bucharest accept Visa card payments. It’s a more convenient and safer way to pay, as you don’t need to carry large amounts of cash on you. Because most of the POS terminals accept Chip & PIN cards, you will probably need your PIN to pay by card. advertorial

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 23 Sutu Palace – Bucharest City Museum Restaurants 2 I.C. Bratianu Blv, 021.315.68.58, The Artist www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro Cuisine: Fusion 13 Nicolae Tonitza St, The lavish neo-Gothic style 0728.318.871, pala-ce was built in 1832 by www.theartist.ro one of the wealthiest aristo- cratic families, the Sutus. The Old City Center is home Sculptor and decorator Karl to a small restaurant where Storck added a grand central avant-garde cooking tech- staircase, transforming the niques and equipment are place into a ball venue. used to transform flavors Today it hosts the city’s muse- and presentations, but also ums, with a permanent urban to revolutionize the appetite. and anthropological collec- Dutch Chef Paul Oppenkamp tion, as well as a pinacotheque combines traditional techniques which includes major Romanian with molecular cuisine and and European painters. ­­­­ Romanian influences, result- ing in surprising combinations Villacrosse Macca of textures and flavors. Passage The menu includes lobster In between Calea Victoriei “sarmale” (minced meat cabbage and Lipscani Street rolls), polenta fries and meat- balls (“chiftele”) with polenta A walk through the Villacrosse and for dessert the famous passage can take you back “papanasi”. It is alos revised to n in time to late 19th-century include seasonal ingredients. w Bucharest, provided you visit at the least crowded time of day. Bellini d to l The alley, which now hosts Cuisine: Italian o numerous pubs and coffee 2 Ion Ghica St, shops, links Calea Victoriei to the 021.310.29.78, Central Bank on Lipscani Street. www.restaurant-bellini.ro The U-shaped skylight-covered passage was built in 1891 by If you are in the area and you Felix Xenopol and carries the crave a pizza or any other name of Catalan architect Italian al forno dish, this Xavier Villacrosse, who moved is the best place to go. to Bucharest and served as the Pasta fans should try their capital’s chief architect from tortellini al forno or the 1840-1850. It has two branches. cannelloni della nona al forno. In between you can find, The fish dishes are also a among other venues, an specialty, as is the wide Egyptian-themed coffee range of pizzas. shop, a Chinese restaurant Another plus is the and the Opium Stage Club. quality of the food.

24 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 mi h ai constantineanu

Old City terraces attract both tourists and locals until late in the night

Bon The classic menu includes both Cuisine: French meat and fish dishes, while the 33 Smardan St, 021.367.21.98, wine list features special labels 0721.375.622 that are hard to find elsewhere.

The latest addition to the Old Caru’cu Bere

Town quarter, with an impres- Cuisine: Romanian o l sive décor fashioned out of 5 Stavropoleos St, d to authentic Transylvanian 021.313.75.60, 0726.282.373, wooden doors, the bistro is a www.carucubere.ro w purveyor of fine dining. Try n the veal with garlic and onion, Be prepared for the full range served with local polenta, or of Romanian dishes served in the classic oysters with caviar the oldest beerhouse in the city. and champagne, as well as the Opened in 1879, this histori- delicious crème brulee with cal landmark is one of the few lavender. Prices are high. venues in Bucharest preserved as such, with architecture that La Bonne Bouche reminds visitors why Bucharest Cuisine: French was once dubbed the “little 30 Franceza St, 0731.247.876, Paris”. Distinctive elements www.labonnebouche.ro include the murals, stained glass and carved cross-beams. ­­Along One of the best French bistros with the beer, made to a secret in town is also one of the most original recipe, The Beer Cart is crowded venues in the histori- also famous for its atmosphere. cal area (make a reservation). The place is packed all week.

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 25 Charme Lacrimi si Sfinti / Tears and Cuisine: Mediteranean Saints 12 Smardan St, Cuisine: Romanian 021.311.19.22, 16 Sepcari St, www.charme.ro 0725.558.286, www.lacrimisisfinti.com A minimalist design, classy atmosphere and a well-balanced If your Romanian friends menu that combines some fine invite you to taste the “modern pasta dishes, including seafood local cuisine”, make sure they and fish, with generous steaks have enough money to pay and a good selection of an extremely pricey bill that desserts. is not quite justified by the quality of the food. Owned Crama Domneasca by a famous local poet turned Cuisine: Romanian chef, the restaurant thrives 13-15 Selari St, more on his persona than on 0726.322.004, the local culinary specialties. www.cramadomneasca.com Malagamba Serving up Cuisine: International at its best, from the classic 2 Sf. Dumitru St, sour soups, “sarmale” and 021.313.33.89, “mici”, to large pork steaks www.malagamba.ro, and eggplant salad, the res- Daily 13:00 – 00:00 taurant located opposite the National Bank also has a good An excellent spot, warm selection of house wines. service with attention to n The service is friendly and the detail and superb food make w live “taraf” music program Malagamba a welcome addi- lends the place its tion to the burgeoning d to l unique atmosphere. Lipscani gastronomic scene. o The dishes are creative and Divan well presented, with light and Cuisine: Turkish original options, and can be 46 Franceza St, enjoyed on the terrace, which 021.312.30.34, affords good people-watching. www.thedivan.ro Keep an eye out for special events (like live jazz) and offers. Kebab lovers can take their pick from beef, lamb, Manuc Bistro chicken and marinated meat Cuisine: Romanian stuffed in an eggplant. 62-64 Franceza St, Vastly superior to other palces 021.313.14.11, 0769.075.844, in town, Divan’s long menu www.hanulluimanuc.ro gives diners extensive choice. The evening entertainment Located inside the flagship program features belly dancers. Old Town historical building

26 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013

sfinti si lacrimi of courtesy

Old Romanian cuisine is the pride of Lacrimi si sfinti

is the Romanian restaurant breathed into it in 2011 with the of Manuc Inn. For those who inclusion of a new restaurant n want to understand the special with a genuine Middle Eastern w flavors of Romanian cuisine, chef. You may be surprised by try the haidouk sour soup with the fresh flavors such as corian- d to l lovage (the taste and smell der, mint, thyme, pomegranate o of these green leaves at their and any number of vegetables best). Enjoy the large open ter- you would otherwise find race in the inner courtyard of unobtainable in out-of-season the inn, and the 18th-century Bucharest markets, which make décor and atmosphere of for exceptional Lebanese food. the three-storey interior. The prices are decent too.

Manuc levantIn Mica Elvetie St. Moritz Cuisine: Lebanese Cuisine: Swiss 62-64 Franceza St, 021.313.14.11, 60 Franceza St, 0769.075.844, 021.224.50.17, www.hanulluimanuc.ro www.micaelvetie.ro

This eatery had been languish- Legendary Mica Elvetie chef, the ing in relative obscurity for the famous Jakob Hausmann, rustles last few years until new life was up a wide variety of food, based

28 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 on fresh, seasonal produce. The restaurant has now a summer BARS & PUBS terrace, a perfect destination for enjoying a sophisitcated meal Absintheria Sixtina when the mercury temperatures. 1 Covaci St, 021.310.35.66 Negresco Cusine: International Under the “Liberte, egalite, 3 Stavropoleos St, absinthe” motto, the pub/café/ 0720.667.766, bar offers a plethora of alcoholic www.negresco.ro beverages, from wines and beers to absinth, of course. The architecture of this 1873 The music is neither too loud nor building and the beautifully too commercial. Another plus is restored interior decoration, its capaciousness, as it takes up which has retained many of an entire floor of an old building, the original elements, are not and never seems too crowded. the only reasons to recom- Adding to the charm there is mend this restaurant, adorned the small balcony, home to just with painted glass, and its one table with two chairs. underground Crama (wine bar), with a golden floor mosaic, Atelier Mecanic a Zinc bar and frescoes. 12 Covaci St, The Italian cuisine-based 0726.767.611 menu, with an interesting selection of salads, also has Atelier Mecanic (Mechanical a Romanian section with Workshop) is a bar made of several traditional dishes. industrial relics, salvaged o l

leftovers, graphics and original d to Red Angus furniture from the 1950 to 1970,

Cuisine: Steak House recalling the industrialization w

56 Franceza St, of the country during com- n 0756.600.000, munism. Nice music and nice www.redangus.ro people, if you like socializing with Romanian “hipsters”. The beef here, which is imported from the US and certified to Bicicleta boast the second highest level of 38 Lipscani St, internationally recognized qual- 0735.616.298 ity, comes with such adornments as coffee rub and caramel onion How about a “tour de force” butter, chili chocolate sauce with coffees or cocktails in and red wine, and red wine and the Old City Center in a bar black currants, with accom- called Bicycle? The entire place paniments such as Brussels is furnished and decorated sprouts baked in blue cheese. with parts of old bikes, with From Thursday to Saturday, plenty of stools and leather there is live blues music. sofas for those who want to

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 29 mi h ai constantineanu

n The Old City is the most vibrant district in Bucharest w

feel a bit more comfortable Biutiful d to l than one does in the saddle. 7-8 Gabroveni St, o 0737.297.297, Beer O’clock www.biutiful.ro 4 Gabroveni St, 0735.187.012, The coolest place on the www.beeroclock.ro crowded Old Town map, this bar is a happy combination of Welcome to beer land! The trendy interior design, excel- 30-page menu reads like a book, lent (yet affordable) food providing inside information and good quality service. on taste, ingredients and the Both the beef burger and brewing process of the 164 the chicken and lamb kafta kinds on offer. Prices range served with tzatziki salad from about EUR 2 for a Czech are worth trying, alongside Primator Dark pint to around one of the many choices of EUR 66 for a Sink The Bismark beer, wine and non-alcoholic Scottish beer with 41% alcohol. drinks on the house list.

30 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 Corks Cozy Bar history dates back to 1869 but it 1 Bacani St, shot to fame in 1901, when the 021.311.22.65, Romanian playwright and pub- www.corks.ro licist took it over, transforming the brewery Bucharest’s Old Center has a into a location where theater- spot for wine lovers who can goers could debate the latest select their tipple from a diz- premieres at the nearby National zyying array of options: Corks. Theater as well as a meeting The contains over 300wines, place for musicians, writers, all of which can also journalists and politicians. be served by glass. The new owners adapted a The selection includes both statue of King Gambrinus recent and vintage bottle. himself, who overlooks the entire brewery from Energiea the top of the bar. 4 Brezoianu St, 0736.374.432, Interbelic www.energiea.ro 1 Selari St, 0722.100.193 A gastro-pub/lounge with a beautiful design, inspired by A well-hidden location, at the the place’s former incarna- intersection of Blanari Street tion as a printing press 80 and Lipscani, the bar’s inti- years ago, Enegiea offers good mate atmosphere gives you food, good drinks and a good those long awaited moments atmosphere. The menu ranges far from the madding crowd. from quick snacks like roasted The friendly staff and rea- o l nuts or French fries to full- sonably priced drinks make d to blown main courses such as the place a target destina- the delicious marinated ribs. tion for locals and expats. w

The cocktails are amazing and n often surprising: our recom- Laboratorul de mendation is the flagship Cocktailuri Energiea, a mix of gin, dry 8 Stavropoleos St, white wine, cucumber, apple 0722.528.040 juice, honey and fresh mint. Outdoor seating is available in Resembling an old phar- the summertime althiugh you macy, your favorite cocktails will miss the great decor inside. are there for sampling at the “Cocktails Lab”. Gambrinus Beerhouse The science theme includes 38 Regina Elisabeta Blv, shots from chemical test 0744.31.51.10, tubes. www.berariagambrinus.ro Be warned that it is very crowded on Thursdays, Gambrinus beer enjoys a long Fridays and Saturdays so tradition in Bucharest. Its don’t expect to find a table.

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 31 relaxed setting. The place is CAFES good for business meetings or as an out-of-the-office work Café Manuc space as it offers free wire- 62-64 Franceza St, 021.313.14.11, less internet and a quiet spot www.hanulluimanuc.ro in a central part of the city.

This is the place to savor a Origo carefully prepared Turkish 9 Lipscani St, 0757.086.689 coffee, just one of the dozens www.facebook.com/ of blends on the menu. Try OrigoCoffee/info the Manuc coffee (rum, espresso, cream) and all the From preparation to serving, caffe frappe specialties. Origo keeps the coffee experi- ence fresh and personal. Coffee Grand Café Van Gogh is roasted on site and the baris- 9 Smardan St, 031.107.63.71, tas are always willing to provide www.vangogh.ro extensive details on the blends on the menu and offer tailored Classiness ooziness from the suggestions of new flavors or high ceiling, understated brewing methods to try. Coffee wooden furnishings, and shop by day and cocktail bar by there’s a range of fresh, simple night, Origo welcomes its guests and appetizing eats and drinks with relaxed décor, featuring appropriate for all times of the natural and neutral materials day. The delicious smoothies and and tones. The coffee is also luxury hot chocolates are just available to go, and you can two of the many highlights. In pick up various blends, teas and n summer you can avoid the smok- brewing utensils and equipment w iness by sitting on the terrace. to take home. Non-smoking. Small terrace during summer. d to l Klein Café o Rembrandt Hotel mezzanine Valea Regilor 11 Smardan St, 021.313.93.15 16-20 Calea Victoriei, Macca-Villacrosse Passage, Finding a quiet place in the 021.311.29.69 bustling Bucharest Old Town can be a challenging task. Add The­­­ famous Turkish coffee to that the non-smoking policy prepared on sand, peppermint and you have a unique and tea (erfe) and non-alcoholic winning combination at Klein wine (karkale) are only a few Café. Located on the mezza- of the Oriental aromas that nine of the Rembrandt Hotel, blend together in this beauti- next door to Van Gogh Café, it fully decorated place located can be easy to miss unless you in the Villacrosse passage. are specifically looking for it. This is also the place to try the And if you do, you can expect Egyptian hookah, also known friendly service in a cozy and as the narghile or waterpipe.

32 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 restaurants

Bucharest has several food quarters located mostly in the center of the city, with top ‘fine dining’ restaurants clustered in the north, on the banks of Herastrau Lake. The central quarters have developed around a few of the capital’s landmarks: the Old Town, the Romanian Athenaeum, Intercontinental Hotel and Carturesti book shop/Icoanei Gardens area. The four circumscribe the very heart of the city, with narrow streets and old villas built in the late 19th century and during the inter-bellum period, many of which have been transformed into res- taurants. Most eateries have a green terrace, where one can dine al fresco while enjoying the shade of old trees at lunchtime or the cool summer breeze in the evenings. Business Review gives you a selection of top Bucharest restaurants, organized by the type of cuisine, including our recommendations for the best Romanian dining options. For the top places to eat in Old Town, see the Old Town section. courtesy of burebista restaurant

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 33 kunnai of courtesy

Kunnai – a touch of Thai sophistication

Kunnai ASIAN 6-12 Copilului St, 0722.687.343, Benihana www.kunnai.ro Howard Johnson Hotel Grand Plaza Serving contemporary Thai cui- 5-7 Calea Dorobantilor, sine, this is one of Bucharest’s 021.201.50.30, top restaurants. The sophis- www.hojoplaza.ro ticated design of the menu is based on the principle of Fabulous fun, with Asian cooks combining opposing flavors and giving a real show intended to the special attention shown to activate all your senses at the the ingredients transforms a same time: eyes, smell and meal into a feast of tastes. For taste. Although not traditional starters, order Fish Spring Rolls, Japanese, the Teppanyaki a fine cuisine combination of tables, which can host up to fish and shitake mushrooms eight people, bring together wrapped in a delicate feuilletage those who are in love with this and the delicious traditional

restaurants part of the world’s cuisine. Tom Yam Soup with Prawns. For The restaurant has one of the vegetarians, the Garden Wrap, best sushi bars in town. This mixing mint, garlic and basil is a place that you must go! with lettuce, cucumbers and

34 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 Authentic Thai Food in Bucharest

For reservations: +40 722 687 343; +40 722 687 454; [email protected] Copilului 6-12 street, 1st district, 012178 Bucharest www.kunnai.ro rice noodles, promises to be an seafood, drawing on family unexpected treat. The epitome culinary secrets of over 60 years. of the experience is Chef Sangri’s There’s also an extensive wine masterpiece – Thai Grilled Fish list featuring bottles from with Herbs, in which kaffir lime, Romania, Italy and France. basil, lemongrass, garlic and chili bring out the best of the Mesogios tasty meat of a dorada fish. 49 Jean Louis Calderon St, 021.317.13.55, BALKAN www.mesogios.ro The oldest and most reliable Torna Fratre fish house in town serves a 34 Tunari St, wide variety of fresh fish 021.210.35.57, 0784.111.890, cooked in a straight, simple, www.restaurant-tornafratre.ro Mediterranean manner.

For quite some time this place Osho Fish has been the talk of town 19 Primaverii St, when it comes to the best 021.568.30.31, www. Romanian restaurant! One can oshoprimaverii.ro taste food from all the regions of the countrys and from the Alaskan crab “legs”, live Romanian communities that live lobsters, cuttlefish, prawns of in the neighboring countries of every size, shrimps in sam- Serbia, Bulgaria and Macedonia. phire grass and so much more Make sure you try the summer are displayed in the chiller! yogurt-based soup tarator and This is the cheapest fish the mushroom specialties. house in town, as it imports directly. The daily catch is listed on a blackboard. FISH The Romanian version of fish soup is available, with a base Al Sapore of borsch and lashings of dill. 7 Unirii Blv, 0723.572.534, www.alsapore.ro FRENCH

Mediterranean restaurant Al Bistro Epoque Sapore has established itself Epoque Hotel as a place for refined con- 17C Intrarea Aurora, noisseurs of the culinary Cismigiu Garden, art and luxury services. 021.313.32.32, Gabriele Orazio, the chef, origi- www.hotelepoque.ro

restaurants nally from the Italian region of Marche, has devised a menu With the two Michelin-starred with a variety of “marchigiane” chef Guy Martin behind the specialties based on fish and menu, French gastronomic

36 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013

creativity and quality are (Chinese, Spanish, Indian and ensured. The cumin flavored Mexican) this place stands duck liver pate is in itself an out as the best with its pricy experience, as is the milk-fed (but good) French food. veal with green asparagus and It is like a bistro inside, goose liver ravioli. The wine but has a charming small list is impeccable, showcas- terrace at the rear. ing, along with the French L’Escargot is crowned with bottles, a top-quality selec- giant fig trees and apricot trees tion of Romanian wines. full of fruit which occasion- ally drop onto your table. Bon See Oldtown 33 Smardan St, FUSION 021.367.21.98, 0721.375.622 The Artist La Bonne Bouche See Old Town See Old Town 13 Nicolae Tonitza St, 30 Franceza St, 0728.318.871, 0731.247.876, www.theartist.ro www.labonnebouche.ro Collage Cantine de Nicolai 10-12 Ion Mihalache Blv, 15 Povernei St, 0758.101.040, 0725.210.608, www.collageworld.ro www.lacantinedenicolai.ro If you have just finished your Even if the 1960s menu is visit to the Peasant Museum, old-fashioned, whatever chef then a stop at this “creative Nicolai Tand produces is perfect! cuisine” high-end restaurant Order the St Jacques (scal- just across the street is a must. lops) with puree potato and shaved fresh black truffle. The Loft The scallops are grilled for 64 Iancu de Hunedoara, a few seconds so they arrive entrance opposite Mega Image moist, correctly under-cooked on Stefan Cel Mare Blv. and generous with five of the beauties. Or the soft, flakey, With a state-of-the-art spacious moist saddle of cod, another design The Loft serves food dish brought to perfection. which would be at home in Paris. Order the excellent clam risotto L’Escargot cooked in true keeping with the 101 Toamnei St, traditional standards of fine 021.201.71.33, French cuisine or the tender www.escargot.ro restaurants sea bass fillet accompanied by a wonderful mashed (puree) In an area off Eminescu and potato, shaved with a gener- surrounded by other restaurants ous slice of fresh truffle.

38 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013

cafe readers of courtesy

Readers Cafe, Bistro and Lounge – a trendy place with gourmet food

Chez Marie INTERNATIONAL 48 Dionisie Lupu St, 031.427.87.76, 0730.344.810, Concerto www.chezmarie.ro Grand Hotel Continental 56 Calea Victoriei, Here you have a delightful, 0372.010.300 warm place, a great location, excellent prices with four pork An elegant white, black and grilled dishes, eleven differ- gray décor, with classical-style ent salads and nine chicken furniture and furnishings, dishes. We recommend the roast silver plates and fancy condi- duck leg, plus duck fillet, red ment holders adorning the cabbage with apple and green tables, Concerto is one of the beans with garlic, a Romanian restaurants on Bucharest’s fine specialty cooked with a twist. dining list. The menu is based on the nouvelle cuisine concept. Malagamba See Old Town restaurants Jazz music played at the right volume will accompany your 2 Sf. Dumitru St, 021.313.33.89, soups, salads, cold entrees, hot www.malagamba.ro, starters, fish, meat or desserts. Daily 13:00 – 00:00

40 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013

Negresco 18 Lounge See Old Town 3-5 Piata Presei Libere, 3 Stavropoleos St, City Gate South Tower, 0720.667.766, 18th floor, www.negresco.ro 0733.50.14.01, www.18lounge.ro Readers Café, bistro , LOUNGE For a dinner with a view in 50-60 Iancu de Hunedoara Blv, the beautiful area of north Metropolis Center, Ground Floor, Bucharest, try 18 Lounge. 0737.32.33.77 The concept is based on offering a refined, tasteful and modern This is one of Bucharest’s posh experience at a fair price, with places, where you can enjoy a food, wine and other drinks wide-ranging gourmet menu selected using the best ingre- that runs from Lebanese tapas dients and the best knowledge. and sushi to warm dishes The menu changes frequently such as pasta and steaks. to give a mix of flavors. The drinks list includes coffee, tea, non-alcoholic cocktails and one of the most comprehensive ITALIAN ranges of top local wines. From the Coffee & Chocolate menu we Aqua recommend Frappe di Menta 7-9 Sos Nordului, (espresso, milk, ice and mint 0731.888.999, syrup), the most refreshing www.aquachique.ro version of ice coffee in town. Possibly the trendiest place on Doncafe Brasserie the Herastrau Lake embank- 7 Ankara St, ment, providing a gorgeous 0746.222.444, view, Aqua offers a well- www.doncafe-brasserie.ro balanced Italian menu, from which we recommend the Located near Piata Dorobanti, truffles beef, black onion beef this brasserie is a relaxing fillet and black mussel risotto. spot with its rich, dark wood and sumptuous seating. On Aquarium weekdays Doncafe offers a 4 Alecu Russo St, rotating plat du jour with 021.211.28.20, international options like www.restaurantaquarium.ro burger, Moroccan couscous and chicken tikka masala. Over the past 12 years, There’s a selection of Italian Aquarium has defended and other European mains, its reputation as one of the

restaurants including pork osso bucco with best Italian restaurants in 1,001 aromas, several meat and Bucharest, due to its constant fish dishes, and some typical quality and the excellently homemade pasta choices. cooked pasta and fish dishes.

42 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013

Bellini with shrimps and zucchini See Old Town and the lightest lamb chops 2 Ion Ghica St, served with cognac and mint 021.310.29.78, sauce. The prices are high, but www.restaurant-bellini.ro reflect the quality of the food.

Gargantua 69 Jean Louis Calderon, ROMANIAN Parcul Icoanei, 021.211.40.41, Burebista / Burebista www.restaurantgargantua.ro Terrace 14 Batiste St, This lovely place is eccentrically 021.211.89.29, www. attractive inside, but also boasts restaurantburebista.ro a delightfully leafy terrace on the fringes of Icoanei Gardens. Named after one of the brave It is best visited for lunch or Dacian tribes’ kings, who defe­ dinner, as it is not a place you nded the land against the Roman would chill out at with noth- conquerors, this ethnic-looking ing but a cold beer. So look over place has one of the largest the menu and go there to dine, menus of Romanian dishes, as it is well recommended. including spe­cialties such as the delicious fish eggs (“icre”), Osteria Gioia pork skin (“sorici”) and last, but 16 Ion Mihalache Blv, not least, wild boar and deer 021.311.37.50, steak. In the evening, there is a www.osteriagioia.ro live traditional music program.

From the starters list try the delicious oven backed pancakes with Fontina cheese and porcini mushrooms. However, the

menu’s forte is its pastas. We courtesy recommend the sophisticated taglioni with vongole clams and arugula or the simple linguine with tomatoes and fresh basil. of burebista patrizia ristorante 12 Mihail Moxa St, 0731.202.027 restaurant

Located in a beautifully restored old villa, this family-run eatery

restaurants ranks among Bucharest’s top restaurants. If you are a fan of Italian cuisine, here you will find Wild boar and deer steak are on the most delicious tagliatelle Burebista menu

44 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 Caru’cu Bere surrounds a two-storey villa See Old Town (classified as an architectural 5 Stavropoleos St, monument), built in 1892 in the 021.313.75.60, 0726.282.373, Romanian neo-classical style. www.carucubere.ro Crama Domneasca Casa Doina See Old Town 4 Sos. Kiseleff, 13-15 Selari St, 021.222.67.17, 0726.322.004, www.casadoina.ro www.cramadomneasca.com

Without any doubt, the best La Taifas Romanian food in town, with 16 Gheorghe Manu St, well-balanced traditional (near Calea Victoriei), dishes such as the excellent 021.212.77.88 trout soup and the fried organic chicken with garlic sauce. At This is the place for lunch this time of year one tradition- or an early dinner if you ally orders as starters eggplant have just finished visit- salad and grilled pepper salad. ing the Enescu Museum. The restaurant is also one of the The restaurant is very popular city’s historical landmarks. The in the summer for its beauti- generous garden with old trees ful terrace. The menu includes restaurants

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 45 several Romanian special- of Monastery, Greek and ties such as eggplant salad Bourgeois dishes, such as (one of the best in town), sour aubergine salad, monastic cabbage rolls and . , grilled trout or roasted pork knuckle with beans. Lacrimi si Sfinti / Tears and Saints See Old Town SLOW FOOD 16 Sepcari St, 0725.558.286, Iconic Food Wine & Design www.lacrimisisfinti.com 7 Aleea Alexandru St, 0727.333.693, Locanta Jaristea www.iconic-fwd.ro 50-52 Georgescu St, 0744.240.125, 0721.961.936, Prepare yourself for a gastro- www.jaristea.ro nomic journey into the esthetics of food, where the nutritional A place that you shouldn’t miss, ethos emphasizes a healthy and mostly for its Bucharest of the balanced diet, harmony in living 1930s ‘joie de vivre’ atmos- and respect for your body. phere created by the décor The charismatic David Contant, and the live music program. a highly reputed chef with The impeccable service is over 30 years of experience in another plus at this themed some of the top global loca- restaurant. The food is well tions, joined Iconic because his judged, as is the wine list. vision met the owner’s inten- tions: he wants to create a true Manuc Bistro Esthetic Space of Life, with See Old Town cuisine sur mesure, based on 62-64 Franceza St, the enjoyment of each unique 021.313.14.11, 0769.075.844, experience and conviviality. www.hanulluimanuc.ro

Rosettya STEAK HOUSES Rosetti Piazza area 9 Dimitrie Bolintineanu St, Barbizon 0748.220.220, World Trade Center www.rossetya.ro 10 Montreal Plaza, 021.202.16.35, This very central restaurant www.pullman.ro tells the story of the birth of Modern Romania in the mid 19th Indisputably the best steakhouse century through several differ- in town, with the bison steak the ent menus: Monastery, Greek, star of the menu! But this res-

restaurants French, Austro-Hungarian, taurant, located in the Pullman Russian and Bourgeois. To learn hotel, is more than a steakhouse. more about Romanian cuisine The menu includes Italian at its best, order a combination and Asian dishes, with several

46 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013 courtesy of z barbi on

Bison Rib Eye is the ‘must eat’ delicatessen on the Barbizon’s meu creative salads combining dif- ferent influences and a large selection of posh desserts. that a rich list of French and Italian fine wines, and you have Osho a ‘deli where you can dine’. 19 Primaverii, 021.568.30.31, The Red Angus www.osho-restaurant.ro See Old Town Cuisine: Steak House They modestly call themselves 56 Franceza St, a steakhouse, but it is much, 0756.600.000, much more than that. If you www.redangus.ro restaurants enter it from the front end of the building, you will find yourself J.W. Steakhouse in a shop which sells all of the JW Marriott Hotel chophouse’s products, ‘over the 90 Calea , counter’ at retail prices. This 021.403.10.10 includes not only the exten- sive range of meat products, Pure Americana, with a selec- but an array of up to 20 Italian tion of the best of the USA, cheeses and salamis. Add to from where all of the produce is

BR CITY GUIDE 2013 | 47 imported. The steaks are aged And the cuisine is surpris- for 21 days at 4 degrees before ingly good for a theme you get your teeth into them. eatery, although vegetar- Side dishes are chosen with ians might be struggling. the same care as the meat. Call ahead to check what night The house’s steakhouse old Vlad is doing his bit. concept has been imported intact from the group’s flag- Excalibur ship hotel, Grosvenor House in 39-41 Academiei St, London, where it is a success. 021.311.62.82, www.restaurantexcalibur.ro Vacamuuu / The Moocow 111 Calea Floreasaca, The tavern style eatery prom- 0731.351.153 ises victuals from the middle ages, served by appropriately If you are a steak worship- attired wenches and without per, then dining amid modern conveniences such as meat market décor may knives and forks, so be pre- be right up your street! pared to get thy hands dirty! This is currently one of the The food, which is basically trendiest eateries in Bucharest, meaty Romanian, is humor- with a wide variety of red ously styled as Sir Lancelot’s meat from special Angus Lunch and Sir Arthur’s Dinner. beef to lamb and veal. There The big round tables are are extensive salads and side great for groups. dishes, in case you want to go with a vegetarian friend. TURKISH

THEMED Divan RESTAURANTS See Old Town 46 Franceza St, Count Dracula Club 021.312.30.34, 8A Splaiul Independentei St, www.thedivan.ro 021.312.13.53, www.count-dracula.ro Golden Falcon 18-20 Hristo Botev St, Cheesy vampiric fun doesn’t 021.314.28.25, get much tackier than at Count www.goldenfalcon.ro Dracula Club, which hosts twice weekly visits from the After more than 12 years of Impaler himself (well, a very existence, this place still serves amusing impersonator). the best Turkish food in town. The atmosphere is suitably The largest selection of deli-

restaurants creepy and attention has been cious kebabs and the wide lavished equally on the menu, range of starters are pluses which is based on and fea- that have probably helped it tures quotes from the novel. beat off the competition.

48 | BR CITY GUIDE 2013