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Romania & Bulgaria 7

Romania & Bulgaria 7

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Romania & Bulgaria

Maramure¢ p166

Moldavia & the Bucovina Monasteries Cri¢ana & p76 p183 Banat p149

ROMANIA The Delta p34 & Black Sea Coast p211 p60

The Danube & Northern Plains p427 Sofia BULGARIA p296 Veliko Târnovo & Black Sea Coast Central Mountains p395 p359 Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains p321

Mark Baker, Steve Fallon, Anita Isalska PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Romania & BUCHAREST. . . . . 34 ...... 77 Bulgaria Map...... 6 Around Bucharest . . . . 58 Bucegi Mountains ...... 82 Romania & Snagov Lake...... 58 ...... 83 Bulgaria’s Top 17...... 8 Braşov ...... 85 Welcome to Romania. . . . 18 WALLACHIA . . . . . 60 Around Braşov ...... 92 Need to Know...... 22 Ploieşti...... 62 Bran...... 93 Târgovişte ...... 65 Poiana Braşov...... 94 If You Like…...... 24 Piteşti...... 66 Zărnesţi...... 95 Month by Month. . . . . 26 Curtea de Argeş...... 68 Hărman & Prejmer. . . . . 97 Itineraries ...... 29 ...... 70 Saxon Land...... 98 Drobeta-Turnu Severin . . . 73 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 31 Sighişoara...... 98 Fortified Saxon TRANSYLVANIA. . . . 76 Villages...... 104 Valley...... 77 Făgăraş Mountains. . . . . 106 SALAJEAN /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WOMEN IN ROMANIAN TRADITIONAL DRESS Romania Contents

UNDERSTAND

Sibiu...... 109 Iza Valley ...... 178 Romania Around ...... 116 Vişeu & Vaser Valleys . . . 181 Today ...... 230 Székely Land...... 118 Borşa ...... 182 History...... 232 Sfântu Gheorghe. . . . . 118 The Dracula Myth. . . . 242 ...... 120 MOLDAVIA & THE BUCOVINA Outdoor Activities Gheorgheni...... 122 MONASTERIES . . . 183 & Wildlife...... 244 Odorheiu Secuiesc. . . . . 123 Moldavia ...... 185 Visual Arts Odorheiu Secuiesc & Folk Culture...... 249 to Târgu Mureş...... 124 Iaşi ...... 185 Târgu Mureş ...... 125 Târgu Neamţ & Around. . . 193 The Romanian People ...... 252 Southwest Piatra Neamţ...... 194 Transylvania ...... 129 Ceahlău National Park . . . 198 The Romanian ...... 129 Bucovina ...... 200 Kitchen...... 254 Deva...... 132 ...... 200 Retezat Mountains. . . . . 134 Bucovina Monasteries. . .. 204 SURVIVAL Northern Rarău Massif...... 209 GUIDE Transylvania ...... 136 Cluj-Napoca ...... 136 THE & Directory A–Z...... 258 Turda ...... 143 BLACK SEA COAST. . . 211 Transport...... 266 Huedin Microregion. . . . 144 Danube Delta ...... 213 Language...... 273 . . . . 145 ...... 214 Bistriţa...... 147 ...... 217 Index...... 496 Sfântu Gheorghe. . . . . 219 Map Legend...... 511 CRIŞANA Black Sea Coast & BANAT ...... 149 & Littoral...... 220 Banat...... 151 Constanţa...... 220 Timişoara...... 151 Mamaia ...... 225 Crişana...... 157 Vama Veche...... 227 ...... 157 Băile Felix ...... 161 SPECIAL FEATURES Arad ...... 162 The Dracula Myth. . . . 242 MARAMUREŞ . . . . 166 Outdoor Activities ...... 168 & Wildlife...... 244 Around Baia Mare ...... 171 Visual Arts Ţara Chioarului...... 171 & Folk Culture...... 249 Sighetu Marmaţiei. . . . . 172 The Romanian Mara Valley...... 175 Kitchen ...... 254 Săpânţa...... 178 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Romania & SOFIA ...... 296 Bansko ...... 332 Bulgaria Map...... 6 Around Sofia...... 317 Melnik ...... 337 Romania & Boyana ...... 317 Bulgarian Thrace . . . . 339 Bulgaria’s Top 17...... 8 Vitosha Nature Park . . . . 318 Plovdiv ...... 339 Welcome to Bulgaria. . . 280 Rodopi Mountains . . . . 352 Need to Know...... 284 PLOVDIV & THE SOUTHERN Chepelare ...... 352 If You Like… ...... 286 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 321 Pamporovo ...... 354 Month by Month. . . . . 288 Rila Mountains. . . . . 323 Smolyan ...... 355 Devin ...... 357 Itineraries ...... 291 Rila Village ...... 323 Rila Monastery...... 324 Regions Borovets ...... 327 VELIKO TÂRNOVO at a Glance ...... 293 & CENTRAL Pirin Mountains . . . . . 329 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 359 Blagoevgrad ...... 329 ...... 361 ARSENIE KRASNEVSKY / SHUTTERSTOCK© Bulgaria Contents

UNDERSTAND

Madara ...... 364 BLACK SEA Bulgaria Veliko Târnovo...... 365 COAST...... 395 Today ...... 444 Around Veliko Târnovo. . . 374 Southern Coast. . . . 397 History...... 446 Dryanovo Monastery. . . . 376 Burgas ...... 397 Outdoor Activities Tryavna ...... 377 Sozopol ...... 403 & Wildlife...... 456 Etâr ...... 379 Primorsko ...... 408 Visual Arts, Lovech ...... 380 Tsarevo ...... 409 Craft & Music...... 462 Troyan ...... 382 Sinemorets ...... 410 The Bulgarian Hisar ...... 383 Central Coast...... 411 People ...... 466 Karlovo ...... 385 Pomorie ...... 411 Bulgarian Wine. . . . . 468 Kazanlâk ...... 386 Nesebâr ...... 412 Bulgarian Cuisine. . . . 470 Shipka ...... 389 Northern Coast. . . . . 416 Stara Zagora...... 391 Varna ...... 416 Sliven ...... 392 Sveti Konstantin ...... 423 SURVIVAL Balchik ...... 424 GUIDE THE DANUBE & NORTHERN Directory A–Z...... 474 PLAINS ...... 427 Transport...... 482 Vratsa & Around ...... 429 Language...... 489 Chiprovtsi ...... 430 Index...... 496 Belogradchik ...... 431 Ruse ...... 433 Map Legend...... 511 Rusenski Lom Nature Park...... 438 Lake Srebârna & Around...... 440 Silistra ...... 441

SPECIAL FEATURES

Outdoor Activities & Wildlife...... 456 Visual Arts, Craft & Music...... 462 Bulgarian Wine. . . . . 468 Bulgarian Cuisine. . . . 470

VELIKO TÂRNOVO, BULGARIA P365 R #\ #\ D ^# #\ #\ ni #\ e #\ st 0 100 km #] #\e e Levoča S #\ rHalych Buchach Husyatyn 0 50 miles #\ #\ t Skole #\ UKRAINE #\ PRomaniaoprad #\ Prešov & Bulgariary #\ Kalush #\ UKRAINE SLOVAKIA Fortified Church Transfăgărăşan Road Bucovina Majestic, Unesco-listed A white-knuckle Painted monasteries with Uzhhorod ^# church in Biertan (p105) driving experience (p109) dazzling frescoes (p204) Maramureş Austerely beautiful wooden churches (p166) UKRAINE Chernivtsi ^# ^# Miskolc A mass of turrets ©Lonely Planet Publications Ltd Pty

Livada #\ #\ #\ and castellations (p93) #\ Dilove Dorohoi #\ Sighetu #\ Putna #\ #\ Botoşani #] HUNGARY Satu Marmaţiei #\ Bălţi

Suceviţa P Moisei Borc şa Mare #\ r #\ #\ #] Suceava u ^#Debrecen Baia Mare Prislop t C #\ a Pass Gura Humorului Cluj-Napoca r p a t SOUTHERN Great restaurants, cafes, h #\ i a Sculeni #\ MARAMUREŞ n BUCOVINA MOLDOVA clubs and bars (p136) Vatra Dornei #\ M #\ Târgu #\ Ungheni #\ #] #\ #\ o Neamţ Târgu Borş #] Oradea Dej Bistriţa u Iaşi n Frumos #_ #\ Băile Felix t CHIŞINĂU #\ Zimbor a #\ i Bicaz #\ #\ Piatra #\ Toplița n Roman Cluj-Napoca s Neamţ Bekéscsaba #\ Lacu Roşu Albiţa #\ Rugged plateaus#\#\ and #] #\ Reghin Beiuş #\ #\ ş Ceahlău well-marked trails (p134) e Gheorgheni #\ Apuseni Turda r Massif #\ #\ #] Chișineu- Mountains u#] Târgu Bacău CRIŞANA #\ #\ Moineşti #\ Gârda M Danube Delta Criș Arieşeni Mureş Odorheiu M #\ Ineu de Sus u MOLDAVIA A vast expanse of Secuiesc #\ r Miercurea Ciuc #\ #\ Nădlac Arad Aiud e Oneşti remote wetland (p213) #\ ^# s #\ #\ #\ Lipova Mediaş #\ Sighişoara Bârlad #\ #\ Blaj #\ Banatško Mures #\ ROMANIA #\ Alba Biertan #\ Arandelovo #\ Rupea Adjud Iulia #\ #\ Sebeş #\ TRANSYLVANIA Sfântu Mărăşeşti #\ #\ UKRAINE #\ Timişoara Deva #\ Făgăraş Gheorghe #\ ^# Orăştie Sibiu #\ #\ Tecuci Jimbolia #\ #] #\ #\ Prejmer Lugoj Hunedoara Poiana Braşov #\ Focşani #\ #] BANAT Râşnov #\ Braşov Vulcăneşti R #\ #\ #\ Voiteg Cindrel Zărneşti #\ #] #\ Predeal Râmnicu Galaţi #\ #\ Petrila Făgă #] Zrenjanin Caransebeş Lupeni #\ raş Mountains Bran Sărat D Moraviţa #\ Petroşani #\ 33 #\ #\ #\ Sinaia an Reşiiţa Retezat Curtea Brăila #] ub #] #\ #\ e Tulcea Sulina Mountains 44 Măcin #\ #] De Argeş Câmpulung #\ Vršac #\ #\ Râmnicu #\Buzău DANUBE Anina Târgu #\ Bucegi #\ Horia #\ Vâlcea Mountains Făurei #\ DELTA 444 33#\ Vâlcea Mountains Făurei #\ DELTA #\ #\ #\ 33 Naidăş #\ Băile #] #\ Ploieşti 444 Sfântu Carpathian ountains Herculane M #] Piteşti Tărgovişte Gheorghe Orşova #\ Hârşova Drăgăşani Snagov #\ Urziceni #\ #\ Drobeta- #\ #\ Kladovo #\ #\ Scorniceşti NORTHERN DOBROGEA Turnu Filiaşi 44#\ #\ Histria #\Otopeni Severin #\ #\ #\ #\ Slatina #_ Brăneşti #\ Bucharest #] Feteşti Craiova WALLACHIA BUCHAREST Lake #\ Mamaia Palace of Parliament – modern Srebârna Roşiori #\ Călăraşi #] Constanţa and mind-blowing (p35) Olteniţa #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ Silistra Caracal de Vede #\ be Srebârna #] #\ anu #\ Alexandria D Negru Turnu #\ Vodă Mangalia #] #\ Bechet #] #\ #\ #\ #\ Măgurele Ruse #\ Lom #\ Vama Veche Oryahovo#\ Zimnicea #\ #\ Durankulak #\ Belogradchik #\ Goulyantsi #\ Razgrad #\ #\ Dobrich #\ Svishtov Balchik Kavarna Sofia Chiprovtsi Montana Knezha #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ Pleven #\ Majestic Aleksander Nevski #] Popovo Albena #\ Borovan Byala #\ #\ Kaliakra Kaliakra Cape Memorial Church (p296) Shumen #\ #\ #] Cherven #\ Bekovitsa #\ #\ Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) #] Vratsa Bryag Veliko Targovishte #\ Madara Varna #] Lovech #\ Sveti #\ Vrachanski Balkan #\ #] #÷ Mezdra Târnovo #\ Veliki Nature Park #]#\ Arbanasi Konstantin #\#\ Rila Monastery #\ Omurtag Preslav #\ Byala Bulgaria's millennium-old Dimitrovgrad Troyan #\ Elena vo #] St #\ #\ #\ Kotel spiritual treasure (p324) a c Novi Iskâr #\ ra Gabrovo Tryavna Pl Stara Plan Sunny Beach anin Shipka Pass ina #] a #\ #\Aitos #\(Slânchev Bryag) BLACK SEA Boyana #_ SOFIA Shipka #\ #\ #\ #\ Sliven #\ #\ #\ Nesebâr Pernik Karlovo Karnobat #\ #\ R÷#Vitosha Nature Novo #] Pomorie R Park #\ #\ Kazanlâk Pirin Mountains Hisar #\ Zagora #\ Burgas Mt Vitosha Ihtiman #\ Panagyurishte Yambol Ski resorts and stunning (Hisarya) #] #\ Sozopol Kyustendil #\ Stara #\ Samokov ÷#Ropotamo summer hikes (p329) #\ Zagora BULGARIA Primorsko#\ Borovets Pazardzhik #\ #\ #\ Kiten #\ #\ #\ Elhovo Tsarevo Rila #] Chirpan Strandzha #_ Mountains Plovdiv #\ #\ SKOPJE #\ ila #\ Topolovgrad Nature Sinemorets R #\ Peshtera #\ Blagoevgrad Haskovo Park ÷# Velingrad Asenovgrad #\ #\ Pi Bansko odopi Moun ri R tai MACEDONIA n Devin ns M #\ #\ o Gotse Chepelare #\ u #\ #\ Ormenio n Delchev #\ ELEVATION t #\ Pamporovo Bulgaria's Black Sea Coast Melnik a Dospat #\ Kârdzhali #\ i Ancient history and golden n Smolyan Petrich s sands (p395) 2500m #\ +# Zlatograd 2000m #\ TURKEY 1500m 1000m GREECE 500m ^# 300m Melnik Plovdiv Veliko Târnovo 200m İstanbul 0 Fine wines with a remarkable Cutting-edge culture and Medieval capital with quaint rocky backdrop (p337) ancient ruins (p339) lanes and nightlife (p365)

#\ #\ #\ ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29

Itineraries

UKRAINE

HUNGARY

MOLDOVA

ROMANIA

Sighişoara

•#

É •# Viscri É Sibiu •# •# Braşov É •# Transfăgărăşan Bran •# R Road •#Sinaia •# Poienari Bucegi

Citadel Mountains É É

#_ BUCHAREST SERBIA Black Sea BULGARIA

10 DAYS Transylvania Castles & Cities

Transylvania is Romania’s best-known region and arguably its most beautiful. It’s filled with rocky mountaintops, haunting castles and lively historic cities. This classic route is designed for travellers for whom this region is the prime focus. The tour starts in Bucha- rest, where most international flights arrive. Hire a car in Bucharest or hop a train northward toward the mountains, stopping in Sinaia for a couple of nights and checking out Peleş Castle. From here, take a cable car into the Bucegi Mountains for a hike. Drive or take a bus north to spend a couple of nights in Braşov, a lively hub with a cobbled centre. Use Braşov as a base for a day trip to the infamous Bran Castle. If you have a car, spend a night in the Saxon village of Viscri before continuing to Sighişoara, where the dramatic citadel offers creature comforts and Dracula’s birthplace. Head southwest for a night or two in the cultural hub of Sibiu. If you have a car (and it’s summer), drive south along the breathtaking Transfăgărăşan road. South of the pass, stop at the ‘real Dracula’s castle’ of Poienari Citadel, before returning to Bucharest. 30 Sighetu Suceviţa Danube Delta & Painted Monasteries Săpânţa •# •#Marmaţiei Monastery Classic Romania

É Budeşti •#

•# •#Ieud É É Baia Mare •# •# Arbore Monastery•# •# Suceava Surdeşti Voroneţ •# É Monastery •# Neamţ

•# Monastery

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Agapia É •# Monastery •# Iaşi Văratec MOLDOVA Monastery •#Cluj-Napoca

Sighişoara ROMANIA

É •#

É UKRAINE É •#Viscri It i nerar •# É Sibiu •# Braşov •# Bran Castle i es

•#

Tulcea É É •# Sfântu Gheorghe

BUCHAREST #_

Danube Delta & 2 Classic Romania 1 WEEKS WEEK Painted Monasteries

Romania is a deceptively large country, Eastern Romania receives the fewest with physical barriers (such as high moun- number of visitors, yet possesses some of tain passes) that make it difficult to get the country’s most important natural and around easily. This tour highlights the most cultural attractions. For the former, look popular province, Transylvania, but adds no further than the serene Danube Delta, neighbouring regions, including capital a sprawling protected wetland that’s per- Bucharest, to make the most of your time. fect for birders. Northwest of here are the cultural wonders of the Bucovina painted Spend the first two nights in Bucha- monasteries. rest, taking in the Palace of Parliament as well as museums and restaurants. Take The tour starts in Tulcea, the gateway the train or drive to Braşov, and spend to the Danube Delta. Stay overnight in at least a day or two. Use it as a base for Tulcea and enter the delta via boating day visiting Bran Castle and the Saxon town trips. If you’ve got more time, skip Tulcea of Viscri. and grab a passenger ferry to deeper, more scenic Sfântu Gheorghe. Head north to Sighişoara and its his- toric citadel. Spend the night before head- After birdwatching and boating, return ing south to Sibiu, an eye-catching former to Tulcea and take the bus or drive north Saxon stronghold. to Iaşi, Moldavia’s cultural hub and larg- est city. Spend a day taking in the sights. From here, head north through Cluj- Use Iaşi as a base to explore the Agapia, Napoca, a big university town with an and monasteries. abundance of awesome cafes and clubs. Văratec Neamţ From here, it’s a short hop to the re- Push northward to the city of Baia gional capital of Suceava, which has good Mare or to Sighetu Marmaţiei, to use hotels and a number of companies offering as a base for visiting the unspoilt region tours to the nearby painted monaster- of Maramureş. Don’t miss the Merry Cem- ies. Don’t miss the Arbore, Voroneţ and etery in Săpânţa or the pretty wooden Suceviţa monasteries. churches in Budeşti, Surdeşti and Ieud. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 511

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Mark Baker Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He mainly writes travel guides on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as several other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or too quirky for the guides. He also contributes to publications such as the Wall Street Journal and National Geographic Traveler. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. When he’s not travelling, these days he’s teaching Central European history and journalism at Anglo- American University in Prague or out riding his bike. He has a master’s degree in International Affairs from Columbia University in New York.

Steve Fallon A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown Univer- sity with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in jour- nalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in for three years before moving to London in 1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified Lon- don Blue Badge Tourist Guide.

Anita Isalska Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of plac- es in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance -be tween the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 7th edition – Jul 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 543 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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