©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Romania & Bulgaria Maramure¢ p166 Moldavia & the Bucovina Transylvania Monasteries Cri¢ana & p76 p183 Banat p149 ROMANIA Bucharest The Danube Delta p34 & Black Sea Wallachia Coast p211 p60 The Danube & Northern Plains p427 Sofia BULGARIA p296 Veliko Târnovo & Black Sea Coast Central Mountains p395 p359 Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains p321 Mark Baker, Steve Fallon, Anita Isalska PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Romania & BUCHAREST . 34 Sinaia . 77 Bulgaria Map . 6 Around Bucharest . 58 Bucegi Mountains . 82 Romania & Snagov Lake . 58 Predeal . .. 83 Bulgaria’s Top 17 . .. 8 Braşov . 85 Welcome to Romania . 18 WALLACHIA . 60 Around Braşov . 92 Need to Know . 22 Ploieşti . 62 Bran . 93 Târgovişte . 65 Poiana Braşov . 94 If You Like… . 24 Piteşti . 66 Zărnesţi . 95 Month by Month . 26 Curtea de Argeş . 68 Hărman & Prejmer . 97 Itineraries . 29 Craiova . 70 Saxon Land . 98 Drobeta-Turnu Severin . 73 Regions at a Glance . .. 31 Sighişoara . 98 Fortified Saxon TRANSYLVANIA . 76 Villages . 104 Prahova Valley . 77 Făgăraş Mountains . 106 SALAJEAN / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / SALAJEAN WOMEN IN ROMANIAN TRADITIONAL DRESS Romania Contents UNDERSTAND Sibiu . 109 Iza Valley . 178 Romania Around Sibiu . 116 Vişeu & Vaser Valleys . 181 Today . 230 Székely Land . 118 Borşa . 182 History . 232 Sfântu Gheorghe . 118 The Dracula Myth . 242 Miercurea Ciuc . 120 MOLDAVIA & THE BUCOVINA Outdoor Activities Gheorgheni . 122 MONASTERIES . 183 & Wildlife . 244 Odorheiu Secuiesc . 123 Moldavia . 185 Visual Arts Odorheiu Secuiesc & Folk Culture . 249 to Târgu Mureş . 124 Iaşi . 185 Târgu Mureş . 125 Târgu Neamţ & Around . 193 The Romanian People . 252 Southwest Piatra Neamţ . 194 Transylvania . 129 Ceahlău National Park . 198 The Romanian Alba Iulia . 129 Bucovina . 200 Kitchen . 254 Deva . 132 Suceava . 200 Retezat Mountains . 134 Bucovina Monasteries . .. 204 SURVIVAL Northern Rarău Massif . 209 GUIDE Transylvania . 136 Cluj-Napoca . 136 THE DANUBE DELTA & Directory A–Z . 258 Turda . 143 BLACK SEA COAST . 211 Transport . 266 Huedin Microregion . 144 Danube Delta . 213 Language . 273 Apuseni Mountains . 145 Tulcea . 214 Bistriţa . 147 Sulina . 217 Index . 496 Sfântu Gheorghe . 219 Map Legend . .. 511 CRIŞANA Black Sea Coast & BANAT . 149 & Littoral . 220 Banat . 151 Constanţa . 220 Timişoara . 151 Mamaia . 225 Crişana . 157 Vama Veche . 227 Oradea . 157 Băile Felix . 161 SPECIAL FEATURES Arad . 162 The Dracula Myth . 242 MARAMUREŞ . 166 Outdoor Activities Baia Mare . 168 & Wildlife . 244 Around Baia Mare . 171 Visual Arts Ţara Chioarului . 171 & Folk Culture . 249 Sighetu Marmaţiei . 172 The Romanian Mara Valley . 175 Kitchen . 254 Săpânţa . 178 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Romania & SOFIA . 296 Bansko . 332 Bulgaria Map . 6 Around Sofia . 317 Melnik . 337 Romania & Boyana . 317 Bulgarian Thrace . 339 Bulgaria’s Top 17 . .. 8 Vitosha Nature Park . 318 Plovdiv . 339 Welcome to Bulgaria . 280 Rodopi Mountains . 352 Need to Know . 284 PLOVDIV & THE SOUTHERN Chepelare . 352 If You Like… . 286 MOUNTAINS . 321 Pamporovo . 354 Month by Month . 288 Rila Mountains . 323 Smolyan . 355 Devin . 357 Itineraries . 291 Rila Village . 323 Rila Monastery . 324 Regions Borovets . 327 VELIKO TÂRNOVO at a Glance . 293 & CENTRAL Pirin Mountains . 329 MOUNTAINS . 359 Blagoevgrad . 329 Shumen . 361 ARSENIE KRASNEVSKY / SHUTTERSTOCK© / KRASNEVSKY ARSENIE Bulgaria Contents UNDERSTAND Madara . 364 BLACK SEA Bulgaria Veliko Târnovo . 365 COAST . 395 Today . 444 Around Veliko Târnovo . 374 Southern Coast . 397 History . 446 Dryanovo Monastery . 376 Burgas . 397 Outdoor Activities Tryavna . 377 Sozopol . 403 & Wildlife . 456 Etâr . 379 Primorsko . .. 408 Visual Arts, Lovech . 380 Tsarevo . 409 Craft & Music . 462 Troyan . 382 Sinemorets . 410 The Bulgarian Hisar . 383 Central Coast . 411 People . 466 Karlovo . 385 Pomorie . 411 Bulgarian Wine . 468 Kazanlâk . 386 Nesebâr . 412 Bulgarian Cuisine . 470 Shipka . 389 Northern Coast . 416 Stara Zagora . 391 Varna . 416 Sliven . .. 392 Sveti Konstantin . 423 SURVIVAL Balchik . 424 GUIDE THE DANUBE & NORTHERN Directory A–Z . 474 PLAINS . 427 Transport . 482 Vratsa & Around . 429 Language . 489 Chiprovtsi . 430 Index . 496 Belogradchik . 431 Ruse . 433 Map Legend . .. 511 Rusenski Lom Nature Park . 438 Lake Srebârna & Around . 440 Silistra . 441 SPECIAL FEATURES Outdoor Activities & Wildlife . 456 Visual Arts, Craft & Music . 462 Bulgarian Wine . 468 Bulgarian Cuisine . 470 VELIKO TÂRNOVO, BULGARIA P365 R #\ #\ D ^# #\ #\ ni #\ e #\ st 0 100 km #] #\e e Levoča S #\ rHalych Buchach Husyatyn 0 50 miles #\ #\ t Skole #\ UKRAINE #\ PRomaniaoprad #\ Prešov & Bulgariary #\ Kalush #\ UKRAINE SLOVAKIA Fortified Church Transfăgărăşan Road Bucovina Majestic, Unesco-listed A white-knuckle Painted monasteries with Uzhhorod ^# church in Biertan (p105) driving experience (p109) dazzling frescoes (p204) Maramureş Austerely beautiful wooden churches (p166) UKRAINE Chernivtsi ^# ^# Miskolc Bran Castle A mass of turrets Pty Ltd Publications Planet ©Lonely Livada #\ #\ #\ and castellations (p93) #\ Dilove Siret Dorohoi #\ Sighetu #\ Putna #\ #\ Botoşani #] HUNGARY Satu Marmaţiei #\ Bălţi Suceviţa P Moisei Borc şa Mare #\ r #\ #\ #] Suceava u ^#Debrecen Baia Mare Prislop t C #\ a Pass Gura Humorului Cluj-Napoca r p a t SOUTHERN Great restaurants, cafes, h #\ i a Sculeni #\ MARAMUREŞ n BUCOVINA MOLDOVA clubs and bars (p136) Vatra Dornei #\ M #\ Târgu #\ Ungheni #\ #] #\ #\ o Neamţ Târgu Borş #] Oradea Dej Bistriţa u Iaşi n Frumos #_ #\ Băile Felix t CHIŞINĂU #\ Zimbor a #\ i Bicaz #\ #\ Piatra #\ Toplița n Roman Carpathian Mountains Cluj-Napoca s Neamţ Bekéscsaba #\ Lacu Roşu Albiţa #\ Rugged plateaus#\#\ and #] #\ Reghin Beiuş #\ #\ ş Ceahlău well-marked trails (p134) e Gheorgheni #\ Apuseni Turda r Massif Vaslui #\ #\ #] Chișineu- Mountains u#] Târgu Bacău CRIŞANA #\ #\ Moineşti #\ Gârda M Danube Delta Criș Arieşeni Mureş Odorheiu M #\ Ineu de Sus u MOLDAVIA A vast expanse of Secuiesc #\ r Miercurea Ciuc #\ #\ Nădlac Arad Aiud e Oneşti remote wetland (p213) #\ ^# s #\ #\ #\ Lipova Mediaş #\ Sighişoara Bârlad #\ #\ Blaj #\ Banatško Mures #\ ROMANIA #\ Alba Biertan #\ Arandelovo #\ Rupea Adjud Iulia #\ #\ Sebeş #\ TRANSYLVANIA Sfântu Mărăşeşti #\ #\ UKRAINE #\ Timişoara Deva #\ Făgăraş Gheorghe #\ ^# Orăştie Sibiu #\ #\ Tecuci Jimbolia #\ #] Olt #\ #\ Prejmer Lugoj Hunedoara Poiana Braşov #\ Focşani #\ #] BANAT Râşnov #\ Braşov Vulcăneşti R #\ #\ #\ Voiteg Cindrel Zărneşti #\ #] #\ Predeal Râmnicu Galaţi #\ #\ Petrila Făgă #] Zrenjanin Caransebeş Lupeni #\ raş Mountains Bran Sărat D Moraviţa #\ Petroşani #\ 33 #\ #\ #\ Sinaia an Reşiiţa Retezat Curtea Brăila #] ub #] #\ #\ e Tulcea Sulina Mountains 44 Măcin #\ #] De Argeş Câmpulung #\ Vršac #\ #\ Râmnicu #\Buzău DANUBE Anina Târgu Jiu #\ Bucegi #\ Horia #\ Vâlcea Mountains Făurei #\ DELTA 444 33#\ Vâlcea Mountains Făurei #\ DELTA #\ #\ #\ 33 Naidăş #\ Băile #] Ciucurova #\ Ploieşti 444 Sfântu Carpathian ountains Herculane M #] Piteşti Tărgovişte Gheorghe Orşova #\ Hârşova Drăgăşani Snagov #\ Urziceni #\ #\ Drobeta- #\ #\ Kladovo #\ #\ Scorniceşti NORTHERN DOBROGEA Turnu Filiaşi 44#\ #\ Histria #\Otopeni Severin #\ Slobozia #\ #\ #\ Slatina #_ Brăneşti #\ Bucharest #] Feteşti Craiova WALLACHIA BUCHAREST Lake #\ Mamaia Palace of Parliament – modern Srebârna Roşiori #\ Călăraşi #] Constanţa and mind-blowing (p35) Olteniţa #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ Silistra Vidin Calafat Caracal de Vede #\ be Srebârna #] #\ anu #\ Alexandria D Negru Turnu #\ Giurgiu Vodă Mangalia #] SERBIA #\ Bechet Corabia #] #\ #\ #\ #\ Măgurele Ruse #\ Lom #\ Vama Veche Oryahovo#\ Zimnicea #\ #\ Durankulak #\ Belogradchik #\ Goulyantsi #\ Razgrad #\ #\ Dobrich #\ Svishtov Balchik Kavarna Sofia Chiprovtsi Montana Knezha #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ Pleven #\ Majestic Aleksander Nevski #] Popovo Albena #\ Borovan Byala #\ #\ Kaliakra Kaliakra Cape Memorial Church (p296) Shumen #\ #\ #] Cherven #\ Bekovitsa #\ #\ Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) #] Vratsa Bryag Veliko Targovishte #\ Madara Varna #] Lovech #\ Sveti #\ Vrachanski Balkan #\ #] #÷ Mezdra Târnovo #\ Veliki Nature Park #]#\ Arbanasi Konstantin #\#\ Rila Monastery #\ Omurtag Preslav #\ Byala Bulgaria's millennium-old Dimitrovgrad Troyan #\ Elena vo #] St #\ #\ #\ Kotel spiritual treasure (p324) a c Novi Iskâr #\ ra Gabrovo Tryavna Pl Stara Plan Sunny Beach anin Shipka Pass ina #] a #\ #\Aitos #\(Slânchev Bryag) BLACK SEA Boyana #_ SOFIA Shipka #\ #\ #\ #\ Sliven #\ #\ #\ Nesebâr Pernik Karlovo Karnobat #\ #\ R÷#Vitosha Nature Novo #] Pomorie R Park #\ #\ Kazanlâk Pirin Mountains Hisar #\ Zagora #\ Burgas Mt Vitosha Ihtiman #\ Panagyurishte Yambol Ski resorts and stunning (Hisarya) #] #\ Sozopol Kyustendil #\ Stara #\ Samokov ÷#Ropotamo Nature Reserve summer hikes (p329) #\ Zagora BULGARIA Primorsko#\ Borovets Pazardzhik #\ #\ #\ Kiten #\ #\ #\ Elhovo Tsarevo Rila #] Chirpan Strandzha #_ Mountains Plovdiv #\ #\ SKOPJE #\ ila #\ Topolovgrad Nature Sinemorets R #\ Peshtera #\ Blagoevgrad Haskovo Park ÷# Velingrad Asenovgrad #\ #\ Pi Bansko odopi Moun ri R tai MACEDONIA n Devin ns M #\ #\ o Gotse Chepelare #\ u #\ #\ Ormenio n Delchev #\ ELEVATION t #\ Pamporovo Bulgaria's Black Sea Coast Melnik a Dospat #\ Kârdzhali #\ i Ancient history and golden n Smolyan Petrich s 2500m sands (p395) #\ +# Zlatograd 2000m #\ TURKEY 1500m 1000m GREECE 500m ^# 300m Melnik Plovdiv Veliko Târnovo İstanbul 200m Fine wines with a remarkable Cutting-edge culture and Medieval capital with quaint 0 rocky backdrop (p337) ancient ruins (p339) lanes and nightlife (p365) #\ #\ #\ ©Lonely Planet Publications