Walser Alps TWalserhe beautiful A Slpsertig Valley with its tiny namesake village. The migrated here in the 13th century

fresh pastures Following the historic trail of Austria’s and ’s pioneering Walser people provides a memorable walk through magnificent mountain valleys, dramatic gorges and centuries-old Alpine villages

Words Rory goulding | Photographs JUSTIN FOULKES

66 July 2011 July 2011 67 Walser Alps

‘groups of farmers set off east in search of new lands’

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT overrun by goats; one of Splügen’s quiet backstreets; goat farmer Johann Egger; the last barn in Juf – Europe’s highest settlement

he marigolds never stood a pioneers call themselves the Walser doesn’t normally get many visitors, but now chance. Twice a day in summer, (pronounced ‘Vall-zer’), after the name Johann Egger is opening up his kitchen to 120 goats pass through the of their old homeland. They live in a small groups of walkers. As a tribute to the Swiss Alpine village of scattering of villages in Switzerland, first Walser settlers, Alpine walkers in the Hinterrhein on their way to Austria and northern Italy, and some still 1980s set up the Walserweg (‘Walser way’) andT from pasture, and they behave with speak the Walser German dialect. In a – a series of hiking trails linking the old a very un-Swiss lack of respect for others’ parody of smallness, even the tiny settlements, and stretching from the Valais front gardens. Johann Egger has been up principality of Liechtenstein has its very to the Austrian-German border, where the since 5.30am tending to his herd – the own Walser enclave. Walser migration ended. The full route source of the wonderfully pungent cheese It’s still a mystery why the first Walser takes around 30 days, depending on which maturing in his cellar. ‘We have to prepare migrated in the 13th century. Romantically variant you follow. Like the people it for seven months of winter in just three minded historians say they were a free- celebrates, the Walserweg seems reluctant months of summer,’ he says. Outside, he spirited people, eager to shake off feudal to be pinned down and regulated. I have points to a mark on the wall showing the rule, but they could simply have been been coming to these mountains since highest recorded snowfall. In 1888, the producing too many babies for the upper childhood, but have only seen one small snow came so high, people had to use their Valais to support. Western Europe’s time of part of this Alpine archipelago. Now I am attic windows as front doors. After a day great migrations had almost ended, so the keen to find out how much of the feeding on the high pastures, the goats Walser sought out the remote tracts in the Walserweg I can travel in a week. return to their stalls, pails full with the higher valleys, which were uninhabited or Seven miles down the valley from day’s milk cooling in a fountain outside. used only by passing herdsmen. The Hinterrhein, Splügen is an untypically This scene is 700 years in the making. settlers worked hard, clearing the forests grand Walser village, grown rich from its Around 1286, this village of thick-walled along the valley floors, and making their position on the old trade routes south farmhouses was founded by settlers from living from livestock in a region where few across the Alps to Milan and Venice. Most the west. In the valleys of what is now the crops grow well, but Alpine meadows are traditional Walser houses are of the sturdy TINA ZE LLM E R Swiss canton of Valais, small groups of pasture for goats and cattle which produce farmhouse type, built out of wood, stone or farmers left their villages and set off east unrivalled milk and cheese. plaster in styles particular to each valley. across the mountain passes in search of new Hinterrhein, with its population of 75, is But in Splügen the houses at the top of the

lands. Today, the descendants of these one of the smaller villages they founded. It village have Italian airs and graces, with map illustration:

68 July 2011 July 2011 69 Walser Alps Walser Alps

always going up but never down!’ she says, the forest. Through this, the dimmed sun ‘ALPINE carrying her grandfather’s old binoculars, throws a magical aura over the path ahead, which she uses to seek out wilful strays. as if marking out the mountains as another PEOPLES She points to some small white flowers – realm. Three deer dart out from the trees. yarrow – good for healing cuts, and wild I feel a slight sense of trespass on reaching NEVER WENT caraway used to flavour the local schnapps. the Oberalp – the old summer settlement I let Nina return to her wayward charges. used when the cows are on the higher WALKING FOR The barn at the end of the village is the pastures. Today, it is utterly silent. sunburnt colour wooden buildings quickly Leaving the larches behind, the path THE VIEW’ acquire in the local climate. To the comes to open moorland, marked only by untrained eye, a 50-year-old house looks a few deserted byres, the low hum of ABOVE FROM LEFT Walser much the same as a 500-year-old one. At the grasshoppers and the distant cry of a cattle; swap hiking boots valley’s end, the grass fades to ash-grey marmot. Stopping for a drink at a fountain for slippers when you enter a mountain hut; Tom Solèr slopes crowned with remnant snow. outside a cabin, I notice its absent owner who runs the Carschinahütte. has planted edelweiss – these curious white RIGHT The Ducantal valley, n little over 20 miles, the stream that flowers are rarely seen growing wild. Then, on the walk to Sertig traces a few turns in Juf has joined a final climb to reach the Fanezfurgga. From others to carve out one of Europe’s the top of this pass, a barren U-shaped greatest gorges. Since Roman times it valley is revealed. We follow the trail down wrought-iron window-guards and front has been known as Via Mala – the Evil past marmots sunning themselves and scree doors that would suit a palazzo. Splügen Road.I Twin bridges span a gap between cliff slopes dotted with deep-blue gentians to was not the only Walser settlement to gain faces as tall as skyscrapers and less than a one of the most perfect villages in the Alps. unexpected wealth from its location. With metre apart in places. From a rocky The houses of Sertig form neat clusters the 20th-century boom in winter sports, the overhang, a toppled tree, still anchored by despite the breadth of the valley, leaving unloved blankets of snow that stifled the its roots, points down into oblivion. Via open fields between them. A waterfall and Walser each winter suddenly became white Mala is an extreme example of why the a triple crown of mountains provide the gold, and villages such as Davos, Klosters Walser preferred to travel over mountain backdrop to the village – a mix of gentle and and Lech grew into famous ski resorts. passes rather than along river valleys. severe that is typically Alpine. The village of Juf, however, feels much Fifteen miles to the east, one of these old Most of the stages on the Walserweg can like it must have done to the early settlers. Walser walking trails links the villages of each be fitted into a day, beginning and At 2,126 metres, it is said to be the highest Monstein and Sertig in just over five hours ending in a village. Mountain huts, year-round settlement in Europe. Six – considered a short hop before the days of however, help to break some of the longer families live here above the tree line, the sealed roads. Thomas Gadmer from the stretches. One such refuge is the valley bare except for Alpine grasses and local Walser society joins me for the walk. Carschinahütte, on the walking route from bilberry bushes. Nina Feldhofer is Austrian ‘Alpine peoples never went walking for the Partnun in Switzerland to Brand in Austria. and one of Juf’s seasonal inhabitants. She view,’ he says. ‘The early Walser thought The word ‘hut’ is quite misleading for a spends her holidays from university that climbing mountains for no reason place that can sleep more than 80 people working in Switzerland as a cowherd, provoked God’s anger, and many peaks and serves hot meals to thousands of dealing with the awkward combination of didn’t have names until recent times.’ walkers every year. This is the third large animals and steep slopes. ‘Cows are We begin in morning mist – the breath of summer season that Tom and Heidi Solèr

70 July 2011 July 2011 71 Walser Alps

waters of the Lünersee, above the village of ‘i EAT MY Brand. For the last stretch, I decide to take the cable car down from the lake. After all, SANDWICH it was also built by the Walser. WITH ONE he migration of the Walser reached its end in what is now western Austria. From around FOOT IN EACH 1400, the climate turned colder and the high pastures didn’t COUNTRY’ beckonT the way they used to. Lech was one ABOVE The border runs of the last valleys settled by the Walser across the Schweizertor before this Little Ice Age began. As in most pass, here looking back from other Walser settlements, the village Austria into Switzerland. RIGHT The headwaters of the founders struck a deal with the feudal lords River Lech, after which the who held title to the land. The barons were village is named eager to see their sparsely settled territories filled with industrious farmers who promised to serve them in times of war. have run and manged the hut. ‘It’s the best In return, the Walser could now boast that moment when you come up in spring to they owned their own land, unlike their open the hut for the first time,’ saysH eidi. lower-lying neighbours. Lech hosted a kind Night falls outside, but the tables of of mini Walser parliament in the old ‘White increasingly merry walkers lessen the sense House’ – several centuries before the one in of isolation on the shoulder of the mountain. Washington DC, as locals point out. Heidi and Tom bring supplies up from the The village has grown to become one of valley once a week: ‘Here, you learn not to the bigger ski resorts in the region, but has forget things,’ adds Heidi. been spared the glut of concrete that mars Morning reveals the mountain wall some Alpine villages. The pattern of life in behind the hut that marks the border with Lech is almost the reverse of what it used to Austria. Less than two hours’ walk away, be when the village was a cow and hay- there is a chance to make a crossing at the based economy: intense activity during the Schweizertor (the ‘gate of Switzerland’) winter, and a more relaxed pace in summer. where the sheer rock face is briefly broken. Elmar Walch was head of the village In the last ascent to the pass, iron hand- ski-school for 20 years, but remembers the holds and steps appear in the steeper parts. time before the village got its first ski lift. At the top, a discreet stone post marks the Sitting by the tiled stove in his family’s border. To prove the point, I sit down to eat hotel, the Hotel Angela, he is surrounded by my sandwich with one foot in each country. hunting trophies. Most are red deer, a staple The old customs hut on the Austrian side of local restaurant menus, but there are also looks long-deserted when I rejoin the path. chamois and ibex horns. The ibex became Two hours after my last glimpse of extinct in the area in the 18th century, Switzerland, it’s a relief to see the cold blue when many people believed its heart was

72 July 2011 July 2011 73 Walser Alps

Walser identity is at once hard to define many hung with moss. The path passes by ‘walser and deeply felt. Today it is less to do with a feeding station for deer, then comes to a the Walser dialect, which, like many large clearing around a farmhouse where identity is at dialects, is fading. Nor is it much to do with dozens of walkers are stopping for lunch. blood ties, after centuries of intermarriage. For Walserweg purists, the route ends once hard to The 40,000-odd population of the just north of here in the valley of the traditional Walser settlements includes Kleinwalsertal, a territorial oddity joined many non-Walser, especially in the town to Austria but only accessible by road from define and of Davos. Resourcefulness, individualism, Germany, and an inconvenient place to a certain allergy to authority – all these are finish my journey. For me, a more fitting deeply felt’ said to be Walser traits. But I think memory end to the route is in the hamlet of Bürstegg, ABOVE Standing 2,599 explains much of it. In the long-settled built on a gentle rise above the gorge that metres high, the Biberkopf lands of Western Europe, there are few runs downstream from the village of Lech. forms the backdrop to people who still tell the story of how their It was inhabited year-round as late as 1900, Bürstegg. The hamlet was a year-round settlement but villages were built, and who preserve the but declined as Lech grew. Today it is the is now inhabited by one pioneering spirit of their ancestors. bare minimum of a village: one house, a couple and in summer only tiny chapel and half a dozen barns. N the last day, I catch a bright I set off to reach it before sunset. Behind blue village bus from the Bürstegg is the Biberkopf. This perfect, a talisman of health and good fortune. covered bridge in Lech to the pyramid-shaped mountain marks the Reintroduced and managed more lake at the end of the valley. A border with Germany and the final stop on responsibly, there are now around 400 statue of an ibex perched atop the Walser’s long path. One day I hope to living in the mountains around Lech. Oa boulder marks the beginning of the route. stand at the foot of another mountain – the ‘There is this connection between the Following the stones painted with white- incomparable Matterhorn, back in the Walser across borders,’ says Elmar. ‘I went red-white waymarks, the path runs beside Valais, where the Walser set off all those with my children to the Valais and we could the River Lech for eight miles before centuries ago. Perhaps I can find a scene still speak with the people there in the old reaching its namesake village. In a dry just like this one. Dusk is falling, but there dialect, after 700 years.’ There are regular summer it’s hard to tell where the river is still enough light for the walk home. LP get-togethers. Even Italian-speaking Walser rises. A frog hops past, presumably in in Milan come to these events, swapping search of water, unseen by a group of jays. Armani for the 18th-century-looking Walser As I walk on, the riverbed slowly fills. The Rory Goulding is the editorial assistant at folk costume, worn on special occasions. open valley turns to a forest of tall fir trees, Lonely Planet Magazine.

74 July 2011 The walk from the Carschinahütte up to MAke it happen the Schweizertor is one of the most challenging stretches WALSER ALPS of the Walserweg

Walser alps tWalserhe beautiful a slpsertig Valley with its tiny namesake village. the Walser migrated here in the 13th century Want to wander in the footsteps of the first Walser? Find out how to plan a Walserweg route to suit your own pace with our fresh pastures nine-step guide, One hour’s walk from Following the historic trail of Austria’s and Switzerland’s pioneering Walser people Monstein, with two hours provides a memorable walk through and discover plenty magnificent mountain valleys, dramatic gorges and centuries-old Alpine villages to go before reaching the Words RoRy goulding | PhotograPhs JuSTin FoulKES of fascinating stops pass of the Fanezfurgga 66 July 2011 July 2011 67 along the way

essentials 9 steps along the way… BARGAIN! Getting there HINTERRHEIN SPLÜGEN (right), a It’s a 45-minute drive Flights to Zurich from London, 1 is the highest village in 2 ski resort village with 3 from Splügen to JUF. Manchester, Edinburgh and Switzerland’s a population of less than At 2,126 metres above sea Birmingham start at £80 return valley. Bachhuus-Chäller 500, is almost two hours level, it’s Europe’s highest (swiss.com; easyjet.com; is a converted cellar open by car from Zurich and 2¼ permanently populated ba.com). Milan’s airports are on request and serving hours from Milan. It’s three village. Buses also come close to southern Walserweg. local cheese and salami, hours by either a train from from Andeer, ten miles to plus bigger dishes such as Zurich to Chur and a bus to the north. Pension Edelweiss Getting around raclette (from £10; 00 41 81 Splügen. Stay at Weiss Kreuz offers simple rooms in the Train and bus networks link 664 1241). Rothaus is a farm (from £125; weiss-kreuz.ch) village (from £45; pension- villages in Switzerland offering b&b rooms and, or Hotel Bodenhaus, which edelweiss.ch). The tourist (swisstravelsystem.ch) and for the curious, straw beds once welcomed German office can also provide details Austria (oebb.at). Hire car (from £22, straw beds £18; philosopher Nietzsche (from of other accommodation in YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED ALPINE WALKING firms can be found at Zurich rothausferien.ch). £120; hotel-bodenhaus.ch). the area (viamala.ch). airport (from £75 per day; How do I walk the whole more roundabout stick. If you don’t ETIQUETTE nationalcar.co.uk). The VIA MALA SERTIG is a moderate The Nutli Hüschi in Walserweg? 19 stages fancy hiking from l Ascending walkers have the right Further reading 4 gorge runs by the 5 five-hour walk from 6 KLOSTERS is a house If you’re aiming to travel in the same through the hut to hut with a of way on narrow paths. A13 highway between Monstein, 20 miles away. dating back to 1565 which direction as the Walser settlers did, province. Full change of clothes l Blaze a new trail and it will turn See Lonely Planet’s Switzerland Thusis and Zillis. Parking is Both are close to the town serves as a museum of you should start in the Swiss Alpine details of this in your rucksack, into a stream with the next heavy (£14.99) and Austria (£14.99) available and local buses of Davos, by the Landwasser Walser life before the resort of Zermatt and finish in route, as well as base yourself in one rain, eventually causing soil loss. guides, or go to austria.info, between Thusis and Zillis river, to which they are linked modern era (£3.50; Wed Mittelberg, in Austria’s Kleinwalsertal walking maps which you or two villages during Stick to the track even if it’s muddy. graubuenden.ch and stop here. Steps descend to by bus. For accommodation, and Fri, 3pm-5pm; corner (‘little Walser valley’). There is no single can print yourself, can be the week. Larger l Don’t walk across cultivated myswitzerland.com. the bottom (£3.50) or you try the traditional-style of Monbielerstrasse and ‘official’ Walserweg route – so, found at wanderland.ch. places such as Lech land. It may look like a flower- Climate can look down from the old Walserhuus (from £110; Talstrasse). The Chesa between those two points, it’s up to Type ‘35’ into the search or Klosters have the strewn meadow to you, but to a 30 200 bridge (left) for free. The St walserhuus.ch). The hotel’s Grischuna hotel is a typical you which of the variants you prefer box or go to widest choice of walking farmer it’s bread and butter. ˚C mm Martin church in Zillis is well also a good place for a meal wooden chalet and has a to follow. There are no resources in walserweg.ch/ routes for all levels of l Leave farm gates open or closed 20 160 worth a look for its rare, (mains from £19), as is the charming restaurant – try English for the full route, but at walserweg.html and fitness. Alternatively, as you find them. 12th-century painted ceiling nearby Zum Bergführer the Klosters blue trout (from walserweg.com you can find follow the English link. the Rhaetian l Don’t pick wild flowers. Many are 10 120 (£3; Postplatz). (mains from £12; sertigtal.ch). £160; chesagrischuna.ch). a list of 29 numbered stages (‘etappen’ Do I need to be an Railway runs a rare and protected by law. in German) and the titles of the experienced walker? baggage forwarding l Take your rubbish with you. Even BARGAIN! 0 80 It’s a near BRAND is the first stop LECH is a famous ski walking maps you’ll need for each That depends how much service for two sections organic waste can take years 7 two-hour walk uphill 8 in Austria after crossing 9 resort which offers stage. The site also lists some variants. you want to see. The of the Walserweg to decompose at high altitudes. -10 40 from the tiny village of from Switzerland at the mountain walking in summer To walk 29 stages in one trip is an Walserweg takes in gentle (five-night packages from l It’s courteous to greet walkers Partnun in Graubünden to Schweizertor. A change from (lech-zuers.at). Of the hotels undertaking suitable only for walks along valley floors and £560, including meals and with ‘Grüezi’ (German-speaking -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 0 the CARSCHINAHÜTTE. the Walser look, Walliserhof that open outside ski season, experienced hikers with at least a more demanding climbs to high accommodation; rhb.ch). Switzerland) or ‘Grüss Gott’ (Austria). Temp max/min Rainfall This mountain hut sits has modern décor and a Kristall has cheery rooms and month to devote to it. Many people do passes. The most difficult stages Is there a non-walking

at 2,236 metres and spa (from £130; walliserhof. a central location (from £60; corbis , shorter sections each year, picking up require sure footing in steep or alternative? THE FINAL WORD provides bunks, bedding at). Find other places to stay lech-kristall.at). For a Walser from where they left off. In the rocky areas, and a level of fitness All of the villages along the ‘In the mountains the and meals for walkers. It’s at brandnertal.at. A cable atmosphere, try the 400-year- absence of official directions, the suitable for walks at altitude that Walserweg are accessible by shortest way is from important to reserve a car links the end of the old Bodenalpe (left), which Swiss canton of Graubünden has can take more than six hours. car or bus, and the roads can peak to peak, but place early as it gets fully valley in which Brand sits serves Austrian käsknöpfle established a Walserweg route, 165 However, no special equipment is be just as scenic as the walking for that route you booked in high summer with the top of the Lünersee – mini dumplings in a rich miles long, within its borders, with the required other than good walking trails. Cable cars in many villages must have long legs.’ (£25 with breakfast; dam and its beautiful lake cheesy sauce (mains from last stage crossing into Austria. This is boots, weatherproof clothing, a take you up to see panoramic Friedrich Nietzsche carschinahuette.ch). (£5; luenerseebahn.at). £11; bodenalpe-lech.com). signposted as trail 35, and runs for a rucksack and, optionally, a walking views without the long climb.

(1844-1900) WALKER. WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KERRY GOULDING, RORY WORDS: justin foulkes : photographs

76 July 2011 July 2011 77