Assembling a survival kit is at best a daunting task to the beginner. There is a plethora of information available; The 5 C's, 10 C's, the rule of 3s, Jerry D. Young's endless lists. There are any numbers of ways to approach the question of what should be in a survival kit.
What we end up with is a failure of imagination.
In order to properly assemble a kit is is incumbent on the individual to carefully consider his or her unique situation and what the most likely scenario would require of the kit. There is no universal list that will satisfy each individual's needs in every likely scenario. Each kit must be customized.
So, how do you begin to approach the problem of assembling a unique, custom kit tailored to your specific situation? Easy.
USE YOUR IMAGINATION!
Imagine yourself trapped in the most likely scenario that may require you to survive using only your wits and the contents of your pack. Use the four ancient elements; Air, Fire, Water and Earth, to consider the threats to your survival and how they may be overcome. PRACTICE the skills necessary to properly utilize the contents of your kit. Then insure that you are never caught unprepared without your kit.
To illustrate the approach I am proposing I will present a basic survival scenario, then prioritize the threats faced in it and list some items that will serve you well in that scenario. This is by no means meant as a comprehensive list for each individ- ual!
So...
THE SCENARIO:
You are on a camping/fishing trip in the Adirondaks in early September. You went off the trail looking for a better fishing spot, lost track of time, and realize you're going to have to hunker down for the night before heading back to basecamp in the morning. The daytime temps were in the 70s but are expected to drop into the 40s overnight, with a chance of showers before morning. You are dressed in a T-shirt, cargo pants and trail shoes with only the contents of your pack to sustain you.
The first thing you're going to have to deal with is your exposure to the...
AIR
"these are GARMENTS Mr. Cratchet, designed to protect us from the cold" -Ebenezer Scrooge
The rule of 3s states that we can survive 3 minutes without air. Air is the only element that affects us every minute of every hour of every day. It is in constant contact with our skin and continued exposure to it's extremes can kill us within 3 hours. Constant attention must be paid to maintaining our body temperature and avoiding hyper- and hypothermia.
The first and most basic line of defense are, of course, the clothes on your back. In this scenario you are not dressed ad- equately for the expected conditions, thus the first item you should consider is some kind of a thermal base- or outer layer. A long sleeve thermal undershirt or sweatshirt should be the first thing in your kit. Wool or synthetic fibers are a better choice for this item as they tend to maintain their thermal properties even when wet.
And that raises the next problem; rain. Being wet and cold as opposed to just cold exposes you to hypothermia faster and at higher ambient temps. Thus, some kind of rain gear should be included in your kit. A heavy plastic poncho is the most use- ful item to have as it can also double as ground cover to shield you from the cold ground. A military style poncho can be used with an insulated liner (woobie) for additional warmth. But even a large plastic trash can liner is better than nothing.
Now that you're dressed for the conditions you will want to make some kind of encampment for the night. Camp means shelter, and short of lugging several pounds of tent around the trail all day you should at least have a tarp. An 8x10 water- proof tarp can be fashioned into a basic pup tent quickly and easily. It is also large enough to completely shelter you from the rain. Wind is another story, but by carefully considering how it's positioned and configured much of the wind's effects can be alleviated.
Of course the tarp shelter will require some cordage to properly erect. I'm not going to engage in the ongoing debate be- tween paracord, bankline and what have you. Suffice it to say that anyone who thinks some type of cordage, be it even hum- ble mason's line, is unnecessary is not someone I'd want to be caught out in the wilderness with.
One item that some may consider a luxury but I would have with me in this scenario is a small fleece blanket. Rolled up in your tarp it will add almost no weight to your kit and could go a long way toward making the night easier to endure. In lieu of a fleece blanket you should carry a couple mylar space blankets. In addition to heat retention space blankets are very noticeable when you're in distress.
So there you are, huddled under your tarp, laying on a bed of evergreen fronds covered by your poncho and wrapped in your fleece blanket. The only thing that could make you more comfortable now would be a nice crackling....
FIRE
It is man's ability to harness and control fire that sets him apart from the other of earth's creatures...well, that and opposable thumbs, which are pretty useful as well. Fire has civilized us, made us powerful, and destroyed us many times over. It is your ability to make fire that could be the deciding factor in whether or not you see the morning sun.
There is an ongoing debate regarding how many different ways to make fire should be included in a survival kit. I'm not going to engage that debate beyond this; carry as many as you can use effectively and are willing to lug around all day.
The first and most basic fire source is the disposable lighter. Cheap and readily avilable you should have a couple in your pack at all times. There are some who prefer the classic Zippo and to them I say "carry on". One thing to remember is that both the Bic and Zippo do not function well when wet, so keep them dry if you want to have them when you need them.
Next pack some matches. Wooden strike anywhere matches are best, but even the humble matchbook will make fire. So called "lifeboat" matches are more weather resistant and make a big long lasting flame and are worth the investment. They are quite reminiscent of holiday sparklers when they burn, adding a festive touch to your survival efforts.
Much more weather resistant and reliable is the firesteel. Made of a compound known as "ferrocerium" the firesteel produ- ces a shower of big hot sparks when scraped with a steel. When combined with a flammable tinder fire is the result. Fire- steels do require some skill and practice to use effectively so don't pack one unless you have actually produced fire with one several times.
Similar to the firesteel is the magnesium match. They normally come with a ferro rod molded into one side, and work by scraping a pile of shavings off the bar and then sparking the ferro rod with a steel. The one I carry has a piece of hacksaw blade chained to it for scraping and sparking. As with the firesteel don't pack one unless you have used it to good effect.
A ball of steel wool can be ignited by touching a 9 volt battery to it. This is a tried and true method of fire making and also makes a neat parlor trick at parties. Just be ready to explain why you're carrying it around with you. You should also make an effort to keep the steel wool well seperated from the battery in your pack. Ask me how I know that.
If all else fails you could always rub 2 sticks together.
Whatever method of fire making you choose you should have packed some kind of tinder. Tinder is what transfers combus- tion from your ignition source to your kindling and fuel. There are as many different types of tinder as there are ignition sources. Balls of cotton mixed with petroleum jelly, dryer lint enhanced with a few drops of lighter fluid and sawdust simi- larly treated are just a few. I carry about a dozen alcohol pads, which only require a small spark to ignite but produce a nearly invisible flame. Have some fun experimenting with various tinders to find your own preference.
All of your various igniters and tinders should be packed and sealed in a waterproof container. The standard guideline for kindling and fuel state that tinder ignites kindling and kindling ignites fuel. Kindling can be anyting from dried leaves to twigs as big around as a pencil. Fuel starts at the diameter of your thumb. There are many good guides to proper construction of a fire pile so I'm not going to get into all that. But you should practice building fires with all of your chosen methods until you know you can build one successfully in adverse conditions.
Finally, in the interest of safety, in order to extinguish your fire you should keep close at hand plenty of...
WATER
After air, water is the most critical element to our survival. The rule of 3s states that we can survive 3 days without it. In the scenario we're working in water is not as critical but why subject yourself to mild dehydration if you don't have to?
Of all the items you carry in a survival situation water is the heaviest by volume weighing about 8 pounds per gallon. Most guidelines indicate a need for at least a quart (or liter) per day. More than that in hotter climates or if you want to cook.
In the present scenario you are surrounded by water. The river/stream/pond is fresh water and rainfall can be gathered in your tarp or trash can liner, making replenishing your supply an easy matter. In other scenarios where water isn't as plentiful there are methods available to obtain safe drinking water. If your situation dictates then you should study those methods carefully and get some practical experience with them. In any scenario it would be a mistake to assume that any water is safe to drink. There are millions of bacteria and viruses swimming around that can rapidly reduce you to a vomitting, dia- rheal, dehydrated mess. It is critical to pack reliable methods to both purify and transport an adequate supply of safe water.
Your first and most basic need is a good canteen. Usually a quart (liter) in volume the old faithful military canteen is an ex- cellent choice. They are available with a cover featuring ALICE type clips that can hang your canteen off your belt or a strap or molle webbing on your pack. Also popular are the Nalgene bottles which are cylindrical in shape and made of a higher grade plastic. Maxpedition and Condor make an excellent carrier for these.
Hand in hand with a canteen is a steel cup. Military style cups nest under the canteen and fit in the cover, adding no bulk to your pack. GSI makes one that fits under the Nalgene in the same manner. Both come with collapsible handles. Steel cups can be used to boil unpurified water over your fire. Suspect water should be boiled for at least 5 minutes to destroy any con- taminates that may infect it. Make sure you don't grab the handles of your cup unprotected as they will be very hot. There are many look alike cups available made of aluminum. These should be avoided if possible.
For times when a fire may not be available you should have a good water filter. Designed to filter out most of the bacterial infestations common they come in either pump or straw styles. Katydin, Sawyer and McNett all make good filters. The Lifestraw is also becoming a popular option. Whichever filter you choose make sure you familiarize yourself with it's work- ings and useable life. Do not try to extend the life of a filter by cleaning or backwashing it unless it's specifically designed for it.
It is critical to remember that no water filter is 100% reliable, and very few filter out viruses. As a result filtered water should also be treated with a purification tablet. Commonly made with iodine or chlorine water purification tablets are simply dropped into your canteen and require some time to do their job. Careful attention should be paid to the directions regarding the way temperature and clarity affect their treatment times. Unfortunately tablets do affect the taste of water, sometimes unpleasantly, but that should not be allowed to deter you from their use. Many people prefer to substitute bleach for tablets. If you choose that method pay special attention to dosage and containment.
Although some may find it excessive I tend to boil filtered water then treat with purification tablets. To me this insures that there will be very little chance of the negative effects of contamination. It only requires one case of Montezuma's Revenge to illustrate to an individual how unpleasant and debilitating it can be. Ask me how I know.
Because water is precious and sometimes hard to obtain you may not want to use it to extinguish your fire. In that case you're going to have to gets your hands dirty and dig up a big hunk of...
EARTH Mother Earth. It's a reverential term. The air we breath, the water we drink, but the earth feeds us when we're hungry. Once again the rule of 3s tells us that we can live for as long as 3 weeks, or more, without food. In our scenario food is not an is- sue. Anybody can go over night without sustenance. But if you've gone to the trouble to prepare yourself why leave out a bite to eat?
Careful consideration should be given to the weight and volume foodstuffs add to your pack. Canned goods, while conven- ient, add a considerable weight as well as the problem of disposal. Attention should be paid to shelf life and how it's af- fected by temperature. Food items should be rotated in and out regularly.
Nutrition bars are a good place to start. Power bars, Granola bars, Clif bars, all are low weight, high energy, small vol- ume items, easy to carry and consume. Lifeboat rations like Daytrex and Mainstay are very high calorie with long shelf lives.
Trail Mix and GORP (Grains, Oats, Raisins, Peanuts) are a bit bulkier to pack but offer similar nutritional benefits as bars. Experienced hikers often have their own recipes for these and many can be found on the internet. One simple way to make your own is to mix one cup each of M&Ms, raisins and peanuts. This stores easily in a quart freezer bag. A couple of hands full and you're fueled up for a morning on the trail. Try to avoid salted peanuts. Salt dehydrates and makes you thirsty.
Many of us carnivores like to pack a bag of beef jerky.
The one advantage of all these food items is they do not require preparation. They are simple grab and eat items with noth- ing to dispose except the wrappers. However they do not provide the comfort that a hot meal can provide. For that you will need to pack a couple backpack meals. Available from companies such as Mountain House and Wise, backpack meals are freeze dried recipes that are reconstituted with a cup of boiling water. There is a wide variety of items available including vegetables and breakfast items like scrambled eggs. There are even deserts available. Most are filling, nutritious and ac- tually taste pretty good. My own preference leans toward pasta meals that provide lots of carbs for energy.
No discussion of transportable food items is complete without mentioning MREs. Military style Meals Ready to Eat are available in the civilian market, and actual military MREs can be purchased from surplus stores. Compared to backpack meals MREs are quite a bit bulkier and heavier. They do provide more variety within the meal, offering an entree, side dish, bread and spread, and sweet. They also include a water fired cooker for preparation, mitigating the need for a fire to heat. Unless you have a personal affinity for them I would recommend avoiding them if possible.
In our scenario the above mentioned items more than suffice for survival needs. If your personal scenario requires a longer exposure it may become necessary to procure food from the environment. You may need to pack a fishing kit, learn how to set snares for game, or even pack in a small caliber rifle and ammunition. Every scenario presents it's own set of challenges and solutions so be open to learning new skills.
Hey! You forgot...
A knife?
Yes, I didn't list one. There is not a scenario or situation that does not require one. Anybody who doesn't carry at least a small blade folder with them at all times is not somebody I want to know. You can drop an experienced bushcrafter into the scenario I've presented with nothing but a knife and the clothes on his back and he'll make it to morning without breaking a sweat. I got my first Barlow when I was a Cub Scout and I cannot remember one single day since then that I have been without some kind of blade. Even a small blade is useful to cut cordage for shelter building, cleaning and skinning fish and game, cutting evergreen fronds for bedding, and notching large sticks makes them easier to break over your knee or against a tree. A blade is included with every multitool and Swiss Army knife for a reason. Larger blades with decent sheaths can be lashed to your pack and go with you everywhere. If you don't have a decent knife get one. Period.
As with a knife, you should just have one. It should include a good variety of wound care items as well as a manual. You should study up on wound care. It may save your life, or the life of someone you actually care about, someday.
A flashlight?
Yes, you should have one of those too.
Conclusion
What I have presented here is the actual basis I use to assemble my various kits. These items are the basis of my BOB, GHB, and camping and hiking packs. I add items to it depending on the needs of my various activities. I am not presuming that it fits anybody else's needs, but what I want you to learn from it is the thought process that went into assembling it. By working inside the elemental outline I presented you should be able to think your way through the scenario you're preparing for and assemble your kit to fit the needs you have anticipated. Hopefully you never have to put it to use...
...but hey...you never know....