Survival Guide

The Weyland Outdoors SURVIVAL GUIDE

By Weyland Outdoors

This book is a Direct Companion Survival Guide that was written specifically for the Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit. It will go over step by step on how to survive in the wilderness for 72 hours, possibly even longer, using only the tools in this kit. Not only will it show you how to use each piece, but it will also cover a wide range of general survival tactics.

The Weyland Outdoors Survival Guide [First Edition] by Weyland Outdoors

No part of this book may be reproduced in any written, electronic, recording, or photocopying without written permission of the publisher or author. The exception would be in the case of brief quotations embodied in the critical articles or reviews and pages where permission is specifically granted by the publisher or author.

Although every precaution has been taken to verify the accuracy of the information contained herein, the author and publisher assume no responsibility for any errors or omissions. No liability is assumed for damages that may result from the use of information contained within.

Printed Soft Cover Books can be purchased through Amazon.com

Cover & Interior Design: Ryan MacRae

Publisher: Weyland

Editor: Ryan MacRae Content Contributor: Mason McCartney

ISBN: 9781713217657

In this world, there are always going to be circumstances that are out of our control.

Many people believe it will never happen to them

until it does…

and by then it is too late.

Shout out to Mason McCartney @ McCartney Survival for all his contributions to this project.

CHAPTERS

1. Introduction______P.6

2. The Beginning______P.9

3. Finding Your Camp______P.17

4. Fire-craft______P.25

5. Water Collection & Purification.______P.39

6. Your First Night______P.43

7. Morning Prep______P.48

8. Finding Food______P.50

9. Navigation & Self-Rescue______P.66

10. Conclusion______P.72

Appendix: The Weyland Outdoors

Survival Kit Contents & Reference Guide ______P.77

INTRODUCTION

In this guide, you will find a way to use the tools which are provided in The Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit. These tools will not only help you survive in any situation but to thrive in your new environment. Throughout this guide, we will show you what tools are included in the Survival Kit, how to prepare you for a survival situation, steps that you need to take once in that situation and how to signal for help and/or self-rescue if need be.

Going into any outdoors-related event such as hiking, fishing, boating, camping or even a simple walk in a new area can take a turn for the worst if you are not prepared. The first and most crucial step is this:

ALWAYS tell someone where you’re going and what time you plan on being back.

For example: “I'm heading out on the Appellation Trail from the Lee, MA trailhead heading west. By Sunday at noon, I will call you to make sure I am on track and to give any other new location updates." By doing this, any potential search and 6

rescue operations will know where to begin searching. The second step is crucial because telling them the WHEN is just as important as the WHERE. Doing this will give anyone a timeline of probable arrival/departure from the location you gave them. These two steps are by far the most important when it comes to any outing and that includes secluded car trips as well, not just outdoor activities. By following these steps, you can prevent or drastically decrease the possibility of being stranded in a survival situation - at least for a long period.

Now, SHOULD you get into a survival situation, many factors come into play: the environment, the time of year, what put you into the situation to start with (hiking the wrong path, car stuck, etc.) all of these factors come into play when making the best decisions. Once you realize you are unexpectedly in an unknown location or situation, (off-trail or stranded in the mountains with a broken down vehicle, etc.), the first thing you need to do is sit down, close your eyes and take a mental pause before you start to do anything. Doing this calms yourself and gets your nerves and senses in check. This way you are less likely to make mistakes and will have clearer thoughts for continuing from there. This is a vital step in figuring out your next move - whether it be staying where you are or needing to

move away from your current location to a more survivable location.

THE BEGINNING

Once you have taken a few minutes to calm your mind and body, slowly take the time to asses everything you can. Start with your own body; make sure you check yourself over for any bumps, bruises or lacerations which you may not have felt when your adrenaline was heightened. Check every limb carefully. Make sure you visually and physically check your arms and legs by rolling up any sleeves or pant legs and using slight pressure to make sure everything is intact. Make sure there are no wounds that go unattended which will end up causing more stress on the body and mind. It is always a good idea to have basic first aid training before heading out on any journey. If you have any cuts or broken bones they need to be tended to immediately, as ignoring them could mean the difference between being rescued or perishing at the hands of Mother Nature.

To truly begin, you MUST know the four main survival needs. These most vital needs are: WATER, FIRE, SHELTER and FOOD.

Knowing what these needs are and being able to prioritize them is something entirely different. Everyone is always different as far as their body's reaction to the struggles of survival. For example, a person who lives in the Arctic Circle will be more climatized to a cold-weather environment than a person who is from a hot dry area and vice versa. Similarly, someone who has just eaten a full meal before getting stranded will prioritize food differently than someone who hasn’t eaten the entire day. Knowing your own body is a very important aspect of survival because it will allow you to gauge how you’re feeling while lacking food or knowing how far to push your body on a physical level (putting up a shelter, hiking to get water, etc.)

There is an important rule when it comes to survival called The Rule of Three, which says:

A person can survive THREE MINUTES without air, THREE HOURS without shelter, THREE DAYS without water and THREE WEEKS without food.

These simple rules are NOT a definite - they are simply a guide to base your decisions from. These rules are here to help you discern what the most important need is at the moment. As mentioned before, every situation will be different depending on the circumstances that got you there.

Now that you understand the Rule of Three, you can start to come up with a plan. It would be amazing to cover every single possible scenario in this guide, however, that just isn’t possible. So, this will be more of a general guide and a basic “how-to” for survival. For now, let’s start assessing your new environment.

You’ve already taken the initial step of calming down your nervous system, gathering your thoughts and emotions and now have better control over your actions - you can begin to assess your surroundings and start to make a game plan of what your next move is going to be. In order to make the correct move, many things will come into play and you should be asking yourself a multitude of questions.

Being able to answer these questions will help you prioritize your survival needs for the immediate future.

• What’s my environment (Am I in mountains or a forest, etc.)? • Is it cold or hot, raining or dry? • What’s the terrain like (is it easy or difficult to mobilize)? • What equipment do I have to help me in this situation? • What kind of plants and trees do I have growing around me? • Are there any signs of animals or any kind of wildlife? • Do I see or hear any freshwater (creeks, rivers, lakes, or puddles)? • Are there any identifiable land features that I can see? • Can I get to higher ground (hilltop, high mountain top, etc.) to scout out the land further?

Once you have taken in the lay of the land, depending on the time of day, you’ll want to begin building a shelter for the night, as this would be your top priority according to “The Rule of Three”.

You always want to make sure you have a shelter to start with if possible. Having a shelter will provide you with a place to go to be protected from the rain, wind, snow, sun, etc. If you are stranded with a disabled vehicle then you are in a really good position. If the vehicle still runs and is merely stuck, then it will have heat when started and you can use that as your shelter AND heat source (at least until you run out of gas). If you were wise and had told someone where you were going and when you would check-in - then the likelihood of you being stranded for more than 72 hours now is slim and Search and Rescue teams will have a good idea of where to begin their search. Your best bet in this scenario is to stay put, especially if you're with your vehicle which is a bigger more colorful object that can be seen from the air and a long-distance away.

When you first asses your area you need to be looking for anything that can help you gain one, if not all, of the survival needs that we spoke of earlier (Water, Shelter, Fire & Food). You should also asses what kind of items you have with you that you can use to your advantage.

Luckily enough, you happen to be carrying your Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit with you!

NOTE: It is always best to go through the kit before throwing it into your back-pack or car and just expecting to be able to use it. Make sure you become familiar with each item in the kit and familiarize yourself with how to use them. It’s even a good idea to have 2 kits so you can use one of them to practice these skills. This will give you the best chance of success with the operation of each of the items both physically and mentally.

The contents included in this kit are as follows:

• 1 Full Tang Fixed Blade Survival Knife • 1 Nylon Sheath for the Knife • 1 Ferro Rod • 1 Striker for the Ferro Rod’s Operation • 1 Dry Tinder (Cotton Ball) • Military Grade 550 Para Cord Bracelet with Metal Shackle • Signal Mirror • Signal Whistle • LED Flashlight (1 AA BATTERY IS REQUIRED) • Kubotan (Glass Breaker/Self Defense Weapon) • Stainless Steel Compass • Stainless Steel Multi-tool card • Diamond Braid Wire Saw • Plastic Case Container

Take an inventory of what you have, if it has a lanyard and can be secured to your body or clothing - that would be ideal as it would eliminate any chance of losing the gear that you have. Also, make sure to take out the survival knife and nylon sheath and attach them to your body using either a belt or the Paracord from the bracelet as this is arguably the most important tool in the kit.

FINDING YOUR CAMP

You now have all of your gear accounted for and it is time to begin making a camp for the night. It is best to not move far from the location where you first realized you were lost, since in most cases this makes it easier to be found by anyone who may be looking for you. We will go into exceptions to this later.

The time of day will determine how much preparation you will have for your first night. As you look around, you’ll be looking for a few specific things to qualify as your camp. You’ll want to make sure that you have as little of a canopy over you as possible. Look for areas such as a clearing in a forest, a beach, etc. This will allow for anyone looking from helicopters or planes to easily spot you. Having a clearing will also give you the ability to use different signaling options that can be made on the ground. AGAIN: If you are in a vehicle, do not leave that area. It is much easier to spot a vehicle than to spot a primitive shelter, so always stay within earshot of your vehicle. Finding an area that is perfect like you would see drawn in any survival book is not likely - so using some creativity and imagination will be imperative to your survival.

Once you have found an area that will suit your needs, you can begin to set up a camp for the night. When setting up your camp you're going to want to decide on a shelter that is easy to setup up and doesn’t take a lot of physical effort. This is where your creativity and imagination will come into play. There are many different choices when it comes to shelter building. These options range from a simple lean-to, all the way up to more sophisticated shelters like wiki-ups or small huts. In the survival situation we’re covering for this guide (typically 72 hours) you will want something that resembles a lean-to or a plow point shelter. Here are a few examples of some basic shelters:

These are easy to build and can be made without the use of cordage. (Your Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit contains 13 feet of 550 Military-grade Paracord which can be found on your "Survival Bracelet" when unraveled, but you'll want to conserve as much of it as possible.) To start these shelters, you will first need another item from your kit, the "Wire Saw". This will make quick work of the poles that you will be using. Find a good size tree sapling roughly 3-5 inches in diameter and put the wire saw behind the tree of choice so that it is now in between you and the saw itself. Take the handles in each hand and while keeping them straight and tight move your arms back and forth while pulling towards you slightly to saw the saplings down.

DO NOT wrap the wire saw around the tree, this will cause the saw to bind up in the tree and you could end up breaking your saw. If the saw gets stuck in the tree, pull it out backward. Never try to "muscle" it through to continue cutting as this will also break the saw. Back it out carefully and start in again.

Another option when using the wire saw is to make an improvised bow saw. Use a small limb that is flexible and when bent into a "u" shape will fit the size of the wire saw. Take your survival knife and use the serrated portion to make cuts in the ends of the limb big enough to slide the wire into. When this is done the limb should relax and catch the handles of the saw so as not to let it slip while cutting. You can also use a bit of paracord for lashings around the wire and tree branch to help keep the wire from coming out. Making this kind of improvised bow saw gives you a free hand to use while cutting.

Here is an example of a Bow Saw made from the wire saw that is in your kit.

To build a simple "Lean To Shelter", find a nice area between two trees. You'll then need to find a small tree between 3 and 5 inches and tall enough to run from one tree of your shelter area to the other. This will be used as a ridgepole. Picking trees that have lower branches that will be able to hold your ridgepole in place without cordage is best but you can always use the paracord from your survival bracelet to tie lashings around the ridgepole and the tree to secure it in place.

NOTE: Your ridgepole should always be thicker than the poles that you'll use to lay across the backside of the shelter.

Now that you have your ridgepole in place you can concentrate on the poles that will create the back of your shelter. Using your saw, cut poles which you can lay at about a 45-degree angle up against your ridgepole so that any rainwater will run off the backside. With these poles cut to the correct length, you can make the backing even stronger by taking your survival knife and carving points into them like that of a spear or a tent stake. This way they will stick into the ground with ease. With the back poles now set you can now add leaves, tall grass, and tree

boughs (such as pine) to further waterproof your new shelter. After doing these simple steps, with these two pieces of gear, you’ve now made yourself a nice temporary shelter to sustain you for a little while.

You will probably begin to realize that you are going to be sleeping on the ground once it gets dark. Now, this is not something that would be a horrible situation if it's during summer, but most of the year it may be uncomfortable because the heat will be sucked from your body by the cool ground, lowering your body temperature and possibly making you go hypothermic. To help manage this, insulate your body from the ground as much as possible using a bead of dried leaves, grass or moss.

FIRE-CRAFT

At this point you have scouted your area out, you have built yourself a shelter and now you need to prioritize the other 3 out of the 4 survival needs: Water, Fire & Food. According to the rule of threes, we know you can go a significant amount of time without food entering into your body (3 weeks) and you don't ever want to just ingest water into your body without it first being purified in some way. With that in mind, a fire should be next on your list of things to do.

With the Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit - a fire has been made very simple for anyone trying to survive the outdoors. The Kubotan & Emergency Whistle will unscrew into 4 separate pieces to reveal a Ferrocerium (or "Ferro") rod, a striker for the Ferro rod and a piece of dried cotton which is used to catch the spark after striking the ferro rod. All of these things have been given to you, however, you can't just strike this cotton and expect to have a fire going. You must first do a little preparation with the resources around you before ever striking the cotton. You only have one piece of cotton, so you must be careful. Before we start the fire, there are a few stages of fire prep that you are going to need to become aware of.

Fire Prep Stages

1st Stage - Tinder (Your cotton from the kit.)

2nd Stage - “Bird Nest” (Dried leaves, grass, pine needles, strips of birch bark, etc.)

3rd Stage - Kindling (Small twigs or branches about pencil size thickness or less. Wood shavings work well too.)

4th Stage - Fuel Wood (This includes wood pieces from thumb- size up to small logs.)

These are the essential elements to making a successful fire. You already have the tinder covered with the cotton from your kit but you'll also need what many refer to as a "birds nest" made up of dead leaves, grass and/or pine straw (birch bark is also great for igniting fires) to bring the flame to life. Once you have your tinder and "birds nest" ready, make sure you are keeping them up off the ground somewhere dry as setting them on the ground will allow them to soak up any moisture from the earth and make it far less effective.

You will also want to grab up a good hefty pile of small twigs that are no bigger than a pencil. This will be your "Kindling". These small twigs or even thin wood shavings will ignite very easily after your whole tinder bundle is lit, making it much easier to get your fire going. These small twigs are going to make up what's called your “coal base” and are a very important part of having a successful fire. You want a good size pile of these to start with, especially if you are newer to building fires without a lighter.

Next is going to be your "Fuel Wood" which will range from thumb thickness to around wrist- thick on average. This is the reason the kindling is so important for making that coal base. If there isn't enough kindling to make the coals nice and hot then your fuelwood will never catch and you risk your fire

going out completely and in a survival situation, this is not worth the risk. You will need to gather up a large portion at this stage since it is what will keep your fire going and fueled for as long as you need it. Start with more than what you think you'll need and after your fire is up and running you can start to gauge how quickly the fire is burning through your "Fuel Wood", which can then determine how long you might be able to give yourself to go gather more wood in the future.

These four stages are the basis for your entire fire and are what will determine your success or your failure so make sure you take the time and do it right otherwise it could be your life that you're risking.

Now that you have gathered up your four stages of fire prep and have them separated into their respective piles its time to pick out a fire lay for your fire. A fire lay is simply what it sounds like: a layout for the way you want to build your fire. Each is used for a specific purpose. You could have a teepee fire, log cabin fire, etc. Each of these are used to accomplish different things.

Teepee Lay

How to Lay the Fire: Put some tinder on the ground then build a teepee configuration around it. Start your teepee with your smallest Kindling first and work up to your larger Kindling. Leave an opening on one side so you'll have a place to light the tinder. You'll have to keep adding kindling to the fire until you've got a solid bed of embers. After that, you'll be able to easily keep the fire going and add your fuelwood.

Pros: Very easy

Cons: Requires a lot of fuel

When to Use: For making small fires in situations where you’ve got a lot of kindling wood

Star Lay

How to Lay the Fire: Start by making a small teepee fire, but instead of laying your fuel wood across the fire, you just put the ends of the fuelwood into the fire.

Pros: Uses very little firewood

Cons: Fire might go out; makes just a small fire

When to Use: When you don’t have much wood

Log Cabin Lay

How to Lay the Fire: To make this fire, you first make a teepee fire configuration. Then you surround the teepee with “walls” by stacking kindling sticks on top of each other. The idea is that these walls will fall in on the teepee, creating a self-feeding fire.

Pros: Once built, it requires less effort to maintain.

Cons: Takes longer to build.

When to Use: When you don’t want to pay as much attention to your fire

You can also switch fire lays after letting one style burn to coals and then setting up another style to take its place depending on your need.

NOTE: You’ll want to mark your fire pit location about 3-5 steps in front of the opening of your shelter so as not to catch your shelter on fire by accident.

After marking out your location for your fire pit and deciding on what kind of fire lay to use its time to build your fire pit and your fire reflector. You could simply make a fire on the bare ground (after clearing it of debris), however, there's a possibility your fire could become out of control and in a worst- case scenario cause a forest or brush fire. To prevent this, there is an easy simple step you can take to ensure this does not occur. That step is to simply take either stones, sand, gravel or mud and make a base over the actual ground you will be set upon.

Also, make sure you surround the fire in a full circle or in a U shape with stones having the opening facing towards your shelter to direct the heat towards where you will be laying. This will ensure you keep the coals of your fire contained in the area that you want and not letting it spill out where it could cause problems.

After you have set up your actual pit, setting up a fire reflector is next. This is exactly as the name suggests: it reflects the heat from the fire towards you as you are in your shelter. This can be done with more stacked stones or by stacking wooden logs horizontally on top of each other with vertical stakes driven into the ground to keep the logs into position.

This setup will ensure that you have a nice warm night’s sleep instead of being cold and uncomfortable. After this is made it is finally time to get your fire roaring into life with the tools provided to you in your Survival Kit and the materials you collected earlier.

STARTING THE FIRE The piece of cotton located in the very tip of the Kubaton will take a spark very easily but will burn very quickly as well - so having a "Birds Nest" of loosely bundled dry grass or leaves to extend the time to get the flame into your fire lay is always a must. Set your "Birds Nest" down close to your fire lay and then fluff the cotton up a little bit and set it next to (or even inside a small pocket of) the "Birds Nest".

NOTE: THERE IS A BLACK PROTECTIVE COATING ON THE FERRO ROD. This will have to be scraped off BEFORE the ferro rod will emit sparks. When the ferro rod is the color of the bare metal you'll notice it sparks very easily when struck.

Taking your striker in one hand and your ferro rod in the other – “aim” the ferro rod towards the tinder bundle. With the other hand take the striker and slide it quickly down the ferro rod to create a spark as if you were scraping the sparks directly off the ferro rod. If you find it easier, your survival knife can also be used as a striker. It should only take a small number of sparks to get the cotton to flame up at which point you’ll quickly want to use it to ignite your “Bird’s Nest”.

Carefully, but quickly, move your "Bird's Nest" into your fire lay and start to use your kindling to grow the flames into a bigger fire as you develop your coal base. Keep adding material slowly increasing the size as you move to use the fuelwood. And there you have it -your roaring fire.

PRO TIP: Carry additional cotton balls saturated in Vaseline. This combination will let your cotton act like a wick in a candle and will stay lit for MINUTES as opposed to seconds the way regular dry cotton would.

At this point, you’re probably going to be tired and hungry from all the physical effort that was spent in building your camp. You may be mentally exhausted from the experience in general as well. Taking a short rest before your next task is probably for the best so that you can calm down and rest from the rigors of what you have done so far. So, take a little time to just sit in your new shelter, breathe and be proud of what you have accomplished so far.

Water Collection & Purification

Now that you have rested you're probably starting to feel the thirst set in. It's time to take what you learned from assessing the area previously and try to find nearby water sources. Being by a body of water when deciding your camp is always best. This allows you to have immediate access to water when you need it. Unless you have experience with making primitive containers to carry and boil water in – you'll find it's a huge undertaking to walk any significant distance to be getting water. Then there is the purification of the water to make sure you don't get sick from the bacteria in it. In this section, we will be going over how to find and purify water using only the Weyland Outdoor Survival Kit.

If you are stuck somewhere close to a lake or river, you'll be one step ahead for many reasons. For now, we will concentrate on the need to stay hydrated and revisit the others later on. When you first assessed your situation, we learned about keeping the 4 survival needs in mind (Water, Shelter, Food, Fire). If you are lucky enough to come across a lake or river then you already have at least one of these needs readily available to you in the form of unpurified water. If you are not close to a riverbank or the edge of the lake it could pose a problem later 39

on. Finding water at this point is pretty important, but not impossible. If you are situated in the mountains you should be looking for a drainage of some sort which will flow downhill. Following these drainages could lead you to a spring coming out of the mountain. These are great because they could be the freshest water you will find since the water coming directly out of the mountain probably has no contaminants in it.

NOTE: For your safety, it is always best to purify drinking water, even from the cleanest sources so that you're sure to avoid ingesting any harmful bacteria.

The best way to find a water source is to look at the terrain and follow it downwards, but you should also be looking for a change in the flora (or plant life) of the area. You will find that when you are close to a stream or any water source for that matter, the plants become thicker, lusher and more diverse. Even if you can't see the water on top of the surface, if you come across an area that has different more lush and green flora, but the creek bed is dry - there is still a good chance that you could dig a little way down in the bed and find water start to bubble

to the surface. Using these tips should make it a lot easier for you in your search for hydration.

After you have located a water source you have to ask yourself how you’re going to purify this water. Believe it or not in your Survival Kit you have a way to do just that with a little bit of knowledge. As you have noticed this kit does not come with a container to be able to collect and boil water (or does it?) If you didn’t know how to utilize every part of this kit you may be correct, however, there is a quick and simple solution to this problem. Since you've found a water source, you will also most likely find pebbles and rocks scattered all around it. Collect a few handfuls of these keeping them on the smaller size.

The case the Survival Kit comes in is perfect for a water container, carrier, and processor. What you need to do to make this work is very simple. You’ll fill the Survival Kit case with water (after emptying it of course) and bring it and your stones back to camp. Instead of boiling the water directly over the flame, which would most likely melt the plastic and render it useless, you'll first want to put a layer of small pebbles or even moss inside the water container. Then take the bigger stones and place

them in the coals of your fire and let them get nice and hot. Once the rocks have been heated you are going to carefully retrieve them from the fire, to do this you can use a stick or even your survival knife. Before they cool, you'll lift them up and into the water container and onto the platform that you made earlier. The heat from the rocks will then be transferred to the water heating it up and after adding a few more rocks it should start coming to a nice rolling boil.

REMEMBER: Keep the boil going for at least 15 minutes at a minimum to ensure all bacteria has been killed off.

Once the water has boiled up you can let the water cool and then you have a nice purified drink of water. Always make sure you are staying hydrated especially when doing a lot of physical labor like shelter building, hiking, etc. This technique is called stone boiling and will ensure you can get a purified source of water without having to put your container directly over the fire.

Your First Night

Let's recap all the things we've just accomplished! You've made yourself a nice comfortable shelter, you've made yourself a roaring fire and you've found and purified some drinking water. Wow! Great job, you've already accomplished a lot and you've GREATLY increased your chances of survival! Keep in mind that the possibility of you getting all of these things accomplished on the first day may or may not be likely - it depends on the layout of your terrain your current skills and how well you are holding up mentally to the thought of being alone and lost. The physical act of surviving in the wilderness is a hard thing to do in and of itself but it is nothing to what the mental agony will be doing to you at the same time. This is why staying as rested as possible is very important. By the time all of these tasks have been completed your mind will be going a mile a minute.

Now that it’s starting to get dark and night is coming you are going to feel the full gravity of the situation at hand. You must find a coping mechanism for this eventuality. Having something to do while you are awake at camp just waiting around is good for your situation and a great way to stay upbeat and motivated. 43

Even though you have a flashlight, traveling at night is a bad idea, especially the first night that you are there alone in the wilderness. This is because you’re still unfamiliar with your area and have not been there long enough to know where everything is or what animals you have in your area. So, the best thing to do will be to simply make sure you have enough firewood to last the night and stay at your camp.

NOTE: Your flashlight is NOT intended to be used as a tool to aid in night travel. It can be used to help see things around your camp at night, but more importantly, it's intended to be used as a SIGNAL tool at night if you happen to hear or see search and rescue teams nearby. Waving the light around and making a lot of noise will be the best way to get their attention. If you're trying to signal someone outside of hearing distance, the button on your flashlight acts as a momentary switch when not pressed fully. Use this feature so make an S.O.S signal with long and short flashes (LONG, LONG, LONG, SHORT, SHORT, SHORT, LONG, LONG, LONG) and repeat that pattern.

When you can’t sleep, keeping busy is the best thing you can do to keep your mind occupied. You can do an assortment of things right around the fire until your mind settles, such as carving items that could help in the coming days. The average time you are looking at before being rescued is 72 hours, but there is no guarantee that it will take that long or be that short. By preparing ahead, you’ll be more mentally prepared if 3 days happen to come and go with no sign of help. That’s why spending time by the fire carving spoons, tools, hooks, spears, trap triggers and the like will give you better peace of mind.

When you do start to feel your body getting tired and your eyes getting heavy, it might be time to grab another item from your Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit: The mylar Emergency Blanket. This item reflects heat either from your own body or from another source and is a fantastic way to keep your body warm overnight. There are several different ways you can use this piece of gear to make it effective for you, the most basic of which is to simply wrap it around your body like a blanket. It can also be used as insulation from the cold ground by laying it flat out on the floor. It can be placed over your fire reflector to increase its efficiency or it can be used as a base layer when building the roof of your shelter which will both reflect heat into the shelter AND

make it water and windproof! Using your creativity and imagination could mean the difference between being rescued and spending a lot of time cold and alone in the woods.

NOTE: DO NOT Punch holes in the blanket it will begin to shred apart. A better approach to making anchor points is to wrap a small stone or some dirt/sand in the corners and tying them off with a piece of cordage.

There are many ways of layering to stay warm using natural materials as well, such as tree boughs, grass, leaves, etc. You can also make a raised bed from the tree limbs if you cut extra while assembling your shelter and building your fire. If you do this then you can heat rocks in your fire and place them underneath your bed before turning in for the night. Just some simple ways to use what's around you to make your situation better. For the first night, it is always best not to overcomplicate anything though because this is a traumatic experience already and adding the stress of having too many tasks to perform will not be healthy or productive. By following the basic steps to set up your camp and gather water you'll have a simple, easy and direct

way of getting your needs met with using only your Weyland Outdoor Survival Kit and the natural things you'll find readily available to you.

Morning Preparation

In this section, we are going to cover what you may be feeling when you first wake up and ways to cope with it, along with what you should be doing to get your day started.

NOTE: Everyone reacts differently to situations, thus your reaction could be the same or different depending on how you decide to react.

You are now awake and it is the morning of your second day being stranded. When you first wake up you'll most likely think that it was all a dream which is perfectly normal. You then realize that you are waking up in a primitive shelter and reality starts to set back in. At this point, you can do one of two things: You can lay there defeated and give up from the mental and physical exhaustion, OR you can pick yourself up and be proud of what you've accomplished so far. Building a shelter, building a fire, getting drinking water and spending an entire night alone in the wilderness is a HUGE accomplishment. If you've made it one night you can do it another and another until you are found by

search and rescue teams. Remember, your friends and family back out there wondering where you are and people ARE searching for you!

Start your morning off by prepping your fire to boil yourself some more water. Using the same technique as before. Doing this helps you realize you can accomplish tasks while there and it gives you a boost of confidence for the coming days. Make sure to always keep yourself hydrated, as without the hydration you will have less success for the future.

Once you have had your fill of water its time to go over all your needs and see what you can accomplish today to help anyone find your location. Make a list in the dirt, carve them in a tree or just say them out loud to get yourself ready to accomplish each goal and make them happen. You know you have decent a shelter, you have scouted and found usable water, you have built a fire for cooking and purifying water. Never lose sight of those accomplishments because it will be those that will build you up. Also, don't allow any setbacks or failures to detour you from keeping the ultimate goal in sight. As you are going through the list of items in your mind you might notice that you are probably hungry, so let's figure out how to get some much- needed calories into your body.

Finding Food

There are 3 basic ways to procure food while in the wild: Foraging, Trapping & Active Hunting. Let's start with the most basic and probably most obvious: foraging for wild edibles (Acorns, mushrooms, wild leeks). Although it may sound counter-intuitive because it is the simplest form of food gathering, this method is not recommended unless you have studied and trained in the identification of any wild edibles. This could be the most fatal of any mistakes, as gathering plants that you THINK are edible can then make you get sick, become incapacitated or even die. The list of things you can and cannot consume is vast and is different for every area.

Because that amount of information would require a book in and of itself, it is encouraged that if you plan on spending a lot of time in the outdoors - to get to know your local flora (plant life) and fauna (animal life). There are many books dedicated to this topic and it would be in your favor to pick one up, as gathering food WOULD be much easier if you knew which plants, berries and mushrooms were edible and which we poisonous. Doing this before going out in any situation where you could potentially find

yourself getting stuck is the best preventative measure that you could take.

The next way of gathering up a meal would be to actively search out animal life and hunt it. There are many different tools you can make to help you accomplish this goal, but the quickest and easiest is going to a simple spear.

Here are two examples of spears that are easily made in only a few minutes.

STANDARD SPEAR

Split Tip Spear

SPLIT-TIP SPEAR

Both of these would be perfect for gathering food from around your area. The split-tip spear can be especially effective with fish and frogs and it’s a simple spear to make. First, take a long branch about 2-3 inches in diameter, then take your survival knife and place it on the tip of the branch with the blade edge pressing into the wood. Slowly bang it into the branch about 3-6 inches using a stone or short stick (called batoning). Now take it out of the split piece of wood and turn it 90 degrees to the first cut and follow the same process. After these cuts, take two smaller sticks and press them into the split sections like a cross or a + sign. Using about a foot of paracord from your survival bracelet, secure this formation in place so the split pieces keep their shape. Once secure you can then widdle the split pieces into a sharp point to complete the spear.

Making a standard spear is even simpler to make. Simply sharpen the stick to a point using your survival knife and you are finished. This is mainly used for protection as opposed to hunting, but it could also be used to hunt bigger game as well. To get a harder tip that won’t crush down as easily you can use a technique called fire hardening. This is simply putting your spearhead over the fire and turning it until the tip becomes blackened. Doing this

condenses the sap inside the wood, making it a harder, more formidable point. Both of these are excellent for hunting and spearing any game that may come your way.

Note: Hunting takes a lot of TIME and a lot of patients. The most effective way to hunt is to locate an animal's trail, usually between its food source and it's sleeping area. Place yourself in- between the two areas on the trail, stay hidden and wait. This is a very simple explanation for a very complex topic and if you're new to the outdoors and wilderness survival this might take some getting used to if you're attempting to actively hunt for food.

The most practical of all other options is going to be Trapping or "Passive Hunting". This option allows you to make different traps and snares while sitting around the fire at night and then put them into use the next day, all while you conserve your energy and stay hydrated at your camp. It's also going to take a lot of practice to get the correct angles cut to make the traps work correctly especially if you're new to wilderness survival or the bushcraft world. Take your time with this progress

and always remember the Rule of 3. Food is usually not as high a priority, at least for the first few days, so always pursue this last after your hydrated, after the fire is tended and after your shelter is made and maintained. You may be uncomfortably hungry, but you will not perish within a few days.

Some common traps that you can try are fairly simple and can be made using your survival knife or using the Multi-Tool Card that is in your kit. Here are a few examples that you can implement, one for land and one for water as well.

Figure 4 Deadfall

This trap is the most common and it is one of the most basic which is why it was picked for this 55

guide. This trap consists of three sturdy sticks and a deadfall weight such as a rock or large log. It’s best used on land around lakes, ponds, streams or wherever small game is obviously present.

NOTE: The larger the trap, the lager and sturdier the sticks need to be to construct it.

STEP 1

Start by laying out the sticks in a figure 4 as shown above. This will get you the right measurements so that it all fits together well.

STEP 2

Correctly carving the sticks is very important. Carve notches in the sticks in the areas shown in the diagram. Take special note of the exact angle and location for each notch as the trap may not set or trigger properly if done incorrectly.

STEP 3

Add bait to your bait stick (pointed stick) such as fruit, berries, etc. that you may have around. Even if they are spoiled and you cannot eat them, they make great bait.

STEP 4

Now for the tricky part… adding the deadfall weight. Balance the heavy object over the bait using the top of the “figure 4” to hold it up. It may take a few tries to balance the weight where it settles and is suspended over your trap.

NOTE: For a better, more effective trap build this trap on top of a flat rock or stump.

Trapping is all about the law of averages, so the more traps that you make and set out, the better your chances are of catching something to eat for dinner. When setting these traps, you want to look for animal trails or holes in the ground that could be burrows. This will let you know that there’s small animals nearby and also give you a much better chance of being able to catch a decent meal. DO NOT overly check your traps or go into the area often, as you will leave a lasting scent trail that the animals will avoid, making your traps useless. Check them twice a day at the max, once in the morning and then once again at dusk.

Fishing Twitch Up Snare

This trap will be used in an attempt to capture a meal from the water. The twitch up snare is a little more complicated, however, it is very effective in catching all kinds of things from shallow water. You will need to cut about 7-10 feet of paracord. After cutting the paracord you’ll need to pull out two of the internal strands.

NOTE: Your Survival Bracelet is made of military-grade 550 paracord which consists of 7 internal "strands" covered by a nylon sheath. In many instances, using the individual internal strands separate from the sheathing will open up a multitude of different functions, as well as increase the total amount of cordage available to you.

You will also need to carve a hook from a small stick. There are many types of hooks you can carve but we are going to keep this simple and use one that anyone will be able to do:

This is a very simple hook that can range in size between 2-4 inches. Carve a small line around the center of the hook so that your line will hold it tight. This kind of hook is both effective and easy to make, which makes it perfect to get traps made and set up quickly.

Some more complicated hooks can be made like this:

Next, you’ll carve the stake and the trigger stick. The stake is the piece that anchors into the ground, where the trigger stick is what holds the trap in place.

To make the stake, simply carve a point into one end (the end that will be driven into the ground) and then at the opposite end you are going to carve a notch in the shape of a "7". For the trigger stick, start by scoring one end all the way around the stick. This is where you'll attach one of the strands of paracord (the other end of which will be tied to your spring). The scoring helps keep the cordage from slipping off the end. At the opposite end, you are going to carve out a notch in the shape of an "L". Score this end of the stick as well because your second piece of cordage will be attached here. This piece of line is also where your hook will be attached. For bait, all you need to do is dig around a little bit for some worms. Stick the worms on your hook and you are all set.

To set the trap: take the line with the baited hook and the trigger stick attached and throw the hook as far out as possible.

NOTE: Your Survival Bracelet is intentionally made using a metal shackle. This small piece of equipment can be used for a variety of different things, one of which is a fishing weight. Remove the pin and thread your line through the hole in the pin before tying it to your hook and you’ll have a sliding weight. Alternatively, you can tie a knot in the line to keep the weight in one spot. Take it one step further and add another line to the hook with something that floats and by combining a float and a weight you can have your bait suspended anywhere in the water column.

When your bait has been cast out, drive the stake into the ground somewhere near a small sapling (pointed side down and "7" side up). Next, take your trigger stick and set the "L" into the "7" so they lock into each other. To finish setting the trap, pull down the sapling that is close by and tie the opposite end of the trigger line to the sapling to give the trap tension. In the event you do not have a sapling around you can modify this trap by simply attaching the cordage to a stump or rock onshore and using it as an anchor and throwing the hook into the water, however, the chances of the hook "setting" in the fish's mouth will be greatly reduced. 64

Another great source of protein is one which isn't able to run or swim away from you! If you are indeed by a large lake or even by the ocean, a great way to gather protein for yourself is to check around the area for shellfish. These are amazing food source because they are packed with protein and are easy to gather. On top of that, you can cook them right in their shells making it a very easy process to eat. Lastly, you also can reuse the shells as tools for anything you may need (cutting tools, water carriers/purifiers, etc.)

Navigation and Self Rescue

Over the last day or so, you've made a pretty well-oiled machine! You've already made a shelter, made a fire, found and began to purify water and have started trapping, gathering and/or hunting for food. At this point, you'll start to switch your focus to: "What can I do to better my position and get rescued?" There are many things in your Survival Kit that will help you both self-rescue and to signal to search and rescue teams. The reason that you assessed your surroundings and picked an open area to make your camp was to help anyone flying over you to see you - but now you need to ask yourself how would they know you are actually in trouble. Many symbols are well known to seasoned pilots which indicate a signal for help:

• 3 straight lines • Marking out a V • Marking out your travel direction with an arrow. These are just a few to keep in mind. The trick in making a signal on the ground for aircraft to see is making sure you make it contrast with the surrounding environment. For example, in the snow, you would want to mark out one of these symbols 66

and then pack it with evergreen boughs or something else dark that you may find. The green contrasts with the white making your signal visible from the air or for someone who may be looking down from a higher vantage point. In the forest or mountains, it is harder to find a big enough clearing, but using signal fires is a great alternative. You can even mark out your symbols in dead leaves, grass and trees that you cut down. Then once stacked and made into the symbol you want, it would take no time to take a flame from your fire and light the whole signal up. This way, even if the actual signal isn’t seen, you will still have a good smoke signal to alert them to your position.

Two other items in your Survival Kit are specifically included as signaling devices: A signal whistle and a signal mirror. The Whistle’s function is pretty obvious, simply blow forcefully into the whistle to alert nearby rescue teams to your location. The whistle can be heard from a much further distance and with much less effort than simply shouting.

When trying to signal a plane, helicopter, boat or a rescue team that’s further than earshot, the signal mirror is your best option. To use the sight: Position the mirror to reflect sunlight on to a nearby surface like a rock or your hand. Slowly bring the

mirror up to your eye then tilt the mirror up toward the sun (not directly into it), until you see a small bead of light. Move the sight toward your intended target (plane, vehicle, search party, etc.). Keep the bead of light in view until your target is in the sight.

PRO TIP. When your target is in the sight, tilt the mirror away and back quickly to create a “flash” effect which you can use to signal an S.O.S

Once you’ve spent three or four nights at your camp, you have everything dialed in and you haven’t heard any sounds of planes, helicopters or anything else that makes you think anyone is coming to you; then at this point you may have to think

about traveling to self-rescue or relocate your camp to a better position. The stainless-steel compass that you have in your Survival Kit can help accomplish just that.

NOTE: It is always best to stay in one place unless you know you are not in the area you previously told to someone or the resources have all run-out and it's a life or death situation.

There are many useful ways to use a compass even if you decide to stay around camp a little longer. Use the compass every time you leave camp to go explore for resources. Get a bearing of your travel and make a note of it, then make a note whenever you come across a landmark (Big fallen tree, odd-looking rock, lakes, streams, food sources, etc.) Soon you'll know how to get to each of these spots with ease. For example, you found a batch of blueberry bushes and you know to get there you need to travel south-south-west from camp until you see the rock that looks like a dog, then turn northwest until you come to the small stream (which is also your freshwater source!) then go upstream 4 minutes which is how long your favorite song you

always sing is. YUM! Those fresh blueberries you just found yesterday, right where you left them!

Ideally, you would be carrying a map, in which case self-rescue is pretty straight forward. Figure out generally where you are by using landmarks, direction you were traveling, etc. Then figure where you need to go and set you bearing accordingly. However, most people these days don't like traveling with maps and rely on GPS' which has battery life. So, let's say you’re in the situation where that happens, your GPS is dead now what? Well, most likely you have a GENERAL idea of where you are. Most people don't just wake up in the middle of the woods not knowing how they got there. So, you want to look for any noticeable landmarks off in the distance like mountain peaks, power line wires, radio towers, etc. Also take note where any lakes, rivers or streams are. Orient these features in your head and where they might have been in relation to the main roads of that area. Now you have a pretty vague "map" in your head. SO, for example, when you started your hike or ATV ride you had a recognizable mountain up ahead as you went in as well as a large stream on your right and you were walking upstream.

At some point, you decided to explore off- trail and bared off away from the stream. Hours passed and you suddenly realize you've been turned around and are lost. First thing you do is look for that mountain as it’s the biggest and easiest landmark to locate. So, you find a clearing or climb a tree and see the mountain is now much closer than it was when you went in. Now's the time to take out your compass and get a reading on the location of the mountain. If the mountain lays North then you bared off northeast when you went off the trail as you're now closer to the mountain and were walking away from the stream.

With this information, you can start setting a bearing for self-rescue. Generally speaking, you want to travel back the opposite way, roughly a southwest bearing. Now that you have this bearing, you can continue to travel in that direction even when you lose sight of the landmarks. You could also choose to just travel east because you know the stream is in that direction and once you hit the stream you would just follow it downstream until you're back where you started.

CONCLUSION

Throughout this guide, you have been given all the basic knowledge that you’d need to survive using only the tools in the Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit. Keep in mind this is only a quick guide and every situation is going to present its challenges. This is for basic use and is not always going to be the way to handle your specific survival situation. By following these steps, however, you stand a much better chance of surviving than if you had no information at all.

We have gone over all of the basic needs and skills that you can use with this kit, but to get the most out of it, we recommend taking survival courses or going to different skills workshops for a more detailed look into the survival and bushcraft world. Then you will not only be able to stay alive but to also thrive. The Weyland Outdoor Survival Kit surpasses other kits of its size and gives you a variety of QUALITY tools that will help you on your journey. Don't trust the junk in the other kits, just think, when it comes to survival: Is cheaper better? I think the answer to that question is pretty obvious. We fought long and hard to bring you a quality Outdoor Survival Kit at a great value. We hope you agree with us when we say we delivered the best product at the best 72

value. We hope you enjoy your Survival Kit as much as we do and encourage you to buy and extra one that you can use to practice these skills with. It's always a fun adventure to “practice” surviving for a night or 2 in a well-known area.

And just one last time….

….because it’s THAT important!

Always remember to tell someone where you are going, the direction you’re traveling and when you expect to be back!

Appendix:

The Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit Contents & Reference Guide

O U T D O O R S ™

- EMERGENCY - Survival Kit

SPECIFICATION & REFERENCE GUIDE

Specifcations

L.O.A. 10.68 in. Blade Length 5.75 in Serration Length 1.2 in. Blade Material 3Cr13 Stainless Steel Fuller Length 2.25 in. Handle Material Polypropylene Features 1. Full Tang Blade - The same steel from the blade runs all the way through the handle making the knife strong and practically unbreakable. 2. Serrated Edge - This area of the blade provides a “sawing” function It will get through small branches, bone and tendons when processing game. 3. Tanto-point - Very sharp edge from a classic American design combined with a modern fare. It is your “general use” cutting edge. 4. Slotted Fuller - Reduces weight, adds strength and keeps the knife balanced in your hand. Also used as a leverage tool such as a shackle wrench. 5. Gut Hook - Used mainly for feld dressing animals, allowing a safer cut when opening the cavity so your meat will not spoil from accidentally cutting into it’s organs. It can also be used to cut a bite of rope, line, cord etc. 6. Nylon Sheath - Keeps your knife protected and out of the way in an easily accessible location. Attaches to your belt through the belt loop. 7. Glass Breaker - Can be used to break windows or in self defense for a highly focused impact blow.

Knife Sheath

3 2

Specifcations

L.O.A. Features Specifcations 10.75 in.

L.O.A. 1. Tough Nylon Material - The 1680D Nylon is tough and will protect 10.75 in. your knife and keep it stored safely when not in use. It is also double layered and doublePocket stitched at the Length seams for added strength and quality. Pocket Length 5.75 in 5.75 in 2. Security Strap - The security strap wraps around the knife handle and buttons closed to keep your knife secured in the sheath so it will not fall out Belt Loop Opening and also makes it more difcult to be taken from you if you ever fnd yourself in a confrontation.Belt Loop Opening 4 in 4 in Material 3. Belt Loop - Having a belt loop lets you have the sheath secured to your belt in a convenient and easily accessible location so that it is always there 1680D Nylon when you need it.Material 1680D Nylon

Features

1. Tough Nylon Material - The 1680D Nylon is tough and will protect your knife and keep it stored safely when not in use. It is also double layered and double stitched at the seams for added strength and quality.

2. Security Strap - The security strap wraps around the knife handle and buttons closed to keep your knife secured in the sheath so it will not fall out and also makes it more difcult to be taken from you if you ever fnd yourself in a confrontation.

3. Belt Loop - Having a belt loop lets you have the sheath secured to your belt in a convenient and easily accessible location so that it is always there when you need it. 80

Specifcations

L.O.A. 30 in

Wire Length 26.75 in

Material 304 Stainless Steel

Handle Material Polypropylene

Features 1. Ergonomic Grips - These hand grips provide better comfort and functionality compared to “key chain” fnger rings that you’ll fnd in the other kits. With a better grip and without the pain associated with the rings, you’ll fnd you can use the saw faster, longer and with more efciency. 2. Stainless Steel Diamond Wire - Made of 304 Stainless steel, this wire saw will not rust. The wire will cut through branches, saplings and young trees with little efort providing you with excellent building materials that you can use to make a shelter. 3. PRO TIP - Cut a relatively straight section of a fexible tree branch about an inch thick and 35 inches in length. Then use your Weyland Outdoors Sur- vival Knife to notch each end. Wedge each end of the diamond wire into the notches while bending the branch slightly. You can also add some lashings from the material in your survival bracelet to each end for added strength. The end result is a crude hand saw that can be even more efcient.

1. “Flint and Steel” - The ferro rod and striker fit neatly inside the tool, hidden away and protected from damage and moisture.

2. Cotton Tinder - A unique feature of our fire starter is including a piece of cotton in a small water proof chamber behind the Kubotan tip. Cotton has been a fire starter favorite for years amongst survival experts for its quick ignition properties.

TO START A FIRE: First gather a range of combustible material of various sizes in order to feed the fire as it grows (dried grass to large branches). Disassemble the fire starter as shown above and remove cotton tinder. Using the striker or your knife, FIRST SCRAPE OFF THE BLACK PROTECTIVE COATING, then scrape some of the bare material off of the ferro rod so it flakes onto the cotton ball. Strike the ferro rod with a quick firm scrape so it creates sparks. Aim to have the sparks land on the cotton so the flakes ignite which will cause the cotton to ignite. Quickly add your collected material to the flame using progressively bigger material as the fire grows. (PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!)

PRO TIP: Keep a small plastic bag with additional cotton balls saturated in Vaseline inside your kit. The Vaseline in the cotton will stay lit and be wicked up by the flame like a candle.

3. Emergency Whistle - Loud and readily available. When you need to be heard give this whistle a long powerful blow and the sound will travel a great distance.

PRO TIP - Blow the whistle in an S.O.S. (SHORT SHORT SHORT, LONG LONG LONG, SHORT SHORT SHORT) pattern to really get the message across that you help.

4. Kubotan - Developed by Sōke Takayuki Kubota in the late 1960s, The Kubotan is a “self defense key chain” that will focus the energy of a blow to a single point. It is usually held in either an icepick grip (for “hammer-fist” strikes) or forward grip (for stabbing, pressure point attacks and seizing). Additionally it can be used for hardening the fist (fistload) for punching, and gaining leverage on an assailant’s wrist, fingers and joints.

Specifcations

Length 3.7 in

Diameter 0.68 in (At Widest)

Material Aluminum

Battery Size AA (Not Included) Features

1. LED - The LED Diode is both bright, reliable, and energy efcient so you can rest assured that you’ll have a light source to go through your gear in the dark or to use as a visual distress signal at night. 2. Textured ON/OFF Button - The light features a soft rubber textured ON/ OFF button that is easily locatable with one hand. 3. Durable Construction - Our fashlight is made of metal instead of plastic so it can take being dropped and banged around a bit. The end of the light will unscrew allowing you access to the battery compartment. (+ end goes in 1st.) PRO TIPS - The light will fre by partially pressing in on the switch, then shut of when released. Use this feature to easily make an S.O.S. signal with light burst (Short Short, Short, Long, Long , Long, Short, Short, Short). Also, consider keeping your battery (not included) separate from the light when storing long term in order to prevent the battery from fouling inside the light. Finally, while certainly a convenience, anything with a battery should never truly be depended on for survival as batteries are just not very reliable. Above anything else, learn to make fre and torches frst as your primary light source (no batteries required!) Only use your fashlight to go through gear quickly or as a distress signal, not to roam around the woods at night.

Specifcations

Length 2.71 in

Width 1.77 in

Thickness 0.064 in

Material Stainless Steel

Features 1. Can Opener - For opening canned food items. 2. Knife Edge - Sharpened edge for cutting. 3. Flathead Screwdriver - For driving fat head screws or using as a prying tool. 4. Ruler - Can help with map legends. 5. Bottle Opener - To open bottle caps that aren’t the “twist of” variety. 6. 4 Medium Sized Wrenches - For bolts sizes 10, 8, 7 & 6mm 7. Butterfy (Shackle) Wrench - For tightening small shackles like on our bracelet. 8. Saw Blade Edge - Can saw through large diameter rope or small branches 9. Directional Ancillary Indicator - Simply put: A makeshift compass. If something happens to the quality compass that came in your kit, you can use this by placing the card on top of the sleeve (on a hard fat surface), adding a small amount of water to this spot and foating a statically charged (rub it in your hair) piece of metal in the water. The end result should be the metal foating on a North/South axis. 10. 2 Small Sized Wrenches - For bolts sized 6mm and 5mm. 11. Lanyard Hole - Swap out the lanyard from the kit’s plastic case if desired, 12. Sleeve & Reference Card - Keeps your tool safe and protected and gives you a quick reference so a larger guide like this one is not needed.

Specifcations

Diameter 2.35 in

Thickness 0.52 in

Material Stainless Steel

Features

1. Stainless Steel Construction - Our compass is made of quality stainless steel that will resist rusting and add to its durability. 2. Large Design - We wanted our compass to be large enough to feel solid in your hand and easily readable from the distance between your eyes and where you would be holding it while hiking. 3. Accurate Indication - We stressed with our factory that this compass must be dependable. While we’ve found there to be about a 5 degree variance across multiple units, we believe this is normal and acceptable when compared to our competitors (which were wildly inaccurate and inconsistent.) Hold the compass as fat as possible so the directional indicator is well balanced (not leaning too far of to one side). As it settles, the indicator will point magnetic north via the red tip. Once established you can use a map (or memory if you’re generally familiar with the area) to decide which direction to head. Continue to check your compass to hold your bearing until you’ve reached a familiar landmark (road, river, ridge line etc.) 85

Specifcations

L.O.A. 9 inches

Unraveled Length 9.75 feet

Cordage Material 550 Paracord (1/8th inch diameter)

Shackle Thickness 0.16 in

Shackle Material Zinc Alloy Features 1. 550 Paracord - We insisted our Survival Bracelet be made of, 7 strand, 550 Paracord. This is the real deal stuf, not the cheap knock of material that most of our competitors are using. 2. Two Piece Design - When needed (for lashings when making shelters for example), our Paracord Bracelet will unravel into either one full piece measuring 9.75 feet long with a fused sheath (core is continuous), or when strength is a priority, cut at the fusion point for 2 separate pieces of full strangth 550 paracord measuring about 5 feet each. 3. Metal Shackle - When designing our Survival Kit we noticed that our competitors were using plastic clips for their clasp instead of a shackle on the bracelets in their kits. That is just blasphemy to us when it comes to Survival Bracelets! Every piece of the bracelet should provide some kind of useful function when the time comes to take it apart. Instead of pinching pennies, we made sure our Survival Bracelets came equipped with metal shackles!

Specifcations

Width. 2.23 in

Length 2.23 in

Material Acrylic

Features

1. Compact & Efective - The signal mirror in your kit is designed to be small and compact, yet still feel solid in your hand. It has a highly refective sub-surface and is made from durable acrylic. 2. Sight Picture - To use the sight: Position the mirror to refect sunlight on to a nearby surface like a rock or your hand. Slowly bring the mirror up to your eye then tilt the mirror up toward the sun (not directly into it), until you see a small bead of light. Move the sight toward your intended target (plane, vehicle, search party etc). Keep the bead of light in view until your target is in the sight. PRO TIP. When your target is in the sight, tilt the mirror away and back quickly to create a “fash” efect which you can use to signal an S.O.S. 3. Lanyard - Can be used to keep your signal mirror around your neck so it remains readily available while trying to hike your way out of trouble. When you see a plane, ship or vehicle it will be easily accessed. You can also wrap the lanyard around your wrist to prevent dropping it. If you do drop it however, do not worry, it will not break or crack like a regular glass mirror would.

Specifcations

Folded Dimensions 4.21 in x 2.99 in

Unfolded Dimensions 51 in x 82 in (4.25 ft x 7 ft)

Material Mylar

Features

1. Large Size - Measuring over 4 feet wide and 7 feet long, there is plenty of material to completely wrap an average sized adult in order to retain body heat. Additionally, because it is both wind proof and waterproof, the Emergency blanket can be used for a make shift “lean to” that will help keep you out of the rain. PRO TIP: If temperature is not an issue but rain is and you fnd yourself building a shelter to spend the night - consider using the emergency blanket in your kit as a tarp on your roof. This will provide a much better solution to keep rain out of your shelter compared to trying to overlap leaves and brush. 2. Mylar Material - Used for over 60 years now by NASA, Mylar has been proven to refect up to 97% of radiated heat! 3. Compact - Folded up the emergency blanket only measures 4.21 inches by 2.99 inches and fts neatly tucked away in your Weyland Outdoors Survival Kit.

HardShell Case

Specifcations

Width 4.75 in

Features Length 1. Perfect Size - One of the biggest complaints on our 11competitors in listings was Specifcations that the case was too small. We’re coming in with a case that is nearly twice as big as theirs, yet still small enough to be able to ft it where you would most Hight likely want it (Back Pack, Bug Out Bag, Glove Box, Etc.) Not only that, but we Width in 4.75 in made sure not to cram a bunch of useless stuf in it that would not help you in a survival situation. The result is that there is a little extra room for you to add your own personal touches to your kit. Some ofInside our favorite Dimensions additions are a small Length “fshing” kit (about 20 feet of line, a few split shot,4.25 hooks in x 10.25and soft in plastic baits) 11 in and cotton balls saturated with Vaseline. Material Hight 2. Lanyard - Keep it on our use it somewhere else.Polypropylene If you choose the keep the in lanyard on the case you can clip it to your back pack either on the outside to save room inside your pack or inside to preventMaterial it from fallingThickness out. Alternatively 0.10 in Inside Dimensions you can remove the lanyard and use it on your tactical card or fre-starter. 4.25 in x 10.25 in 2. RE-PACKING (IMPORTANT)- Because we wanted to make sure to provide you with the BIGGEST and BEST Survival Knife Possible for a Kit of this size, Material there is onlyFeatures 1 good way to ft the knife back into the case: 1- Place the emer- Polypropylene gency blanket in frst to the far left. 2- Put the sheath into the case (without 1. Perfect Size - One of thethe biggest knife inside complaints it) on top of the on emergency our competitors blanket so the pointed listings end iswas on the that theMaterial case Thicknesswas too small.bottom We’re left andcoming the belt in loop with is in the a caseupper right.that 3- is Put nearly the knife twice ON TOP of the as big as theirs,0.10 in yet still smallsheath enough in the same to position. be able 4- The to remainingft it where items canyou then would be tuc kedmost into the various spaces left inside the case. Following these steps will ensure the knife likely want it (Back Pack, Bugis sitting Out at Bag,the proper Glove hight Box, inside Etc.) the case Not so thatonly the that, case will but not we become made sure not to cram a bunchdamaged. of Additionallyuseless stuf there should in it stillthat be roomwould left overnot forhelp a few you of your in own small additions. a survival situation. The result is that there is a little extra room for you to add your own personal touches to your kit. Some of our favorite additions are a small “fshing” kit (about 20 feet of line, a few split shot, hooks and soft plastic baits) and cotton balls saturated with Vaseline.

2. Lanyard - Keep it on our use it somewhere else. If you choose the keep the lanyard on the case you can clip it to your back pack either on the outside to save room inside your pack or inside to prevent it from falling out. Alternatively you can remove the lanyard and use it on your tactical card or fre-starter.

2. RE-PACKING (IMPORTANT)- Because we wanted to make sure to provide you with the BIGGEST and BEST Survival Knife Possible for a Kit of this size, there is only 1 good way to ft the knife back into the case: 1- Place the emergency blanket in frst to the far left. 2- Put the sheath into the case (without the knife inside it) on top of the emergency blanket so the pointed end is on the bottom left and the belt loop is in the upper right. 3- Put the knife ON TOP of the sheath in the same position. 4- The remaining items can then be tucked into the various spaces left inside the case. Following these steps will ensure the knife is sitting at the proper hight inside the case so that the case will not become damaged. Additionally there should still be room left over for a few of your own small additions.

Thank you for supporting Weyland Outdoors.

Weyland Outdoors is a small family owned and operated business out of Huntington, Massachusetts.

Please be sure to follow us on Facebook & Instagram.

Also, if you haven’t already, please check out our website at: http://weylandoutdoors.com

Additionally, join our e-mail list to stay up to date on deals, promotions and new product launches.

If you have any questions or concerns with any of our products, please contact us at:

[email protected]