Sociology of Fashion: Order and Change
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Taste in Appearance: Self, Cultivated Dispositions, and Cultural Capital Yoo Jin Kwon Iowa State University
Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Retrospective Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 2007 Taste in appearance: self, cultivated dispositions, and cultural capital Yoo Jin Kwon Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd Part of the Marketing Commons, Social Psychology Commons, and the Social Psychology and Interaction Commons Recommended Citation Kwon, Yoo Jin, "Taste in appearance: self, cultivated dispositions, and cultural capital" (2007). Retrospective Theses and Dissertations. 15977. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd/15977 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Retrospective Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Taste in appearance: Self, cultivated dispositions, and cultural capital by Yoo Jin Kwon A dissertation submitted to the graduate faculty in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Major: Textiles and Clothing Program of Study Committee: Mary Lynn Damhorst, Major Professor Lulu Rodriguez Joseph Kupfer Jean Parsons Susan Torntore Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 2007 Copyright © Yoo Jin Kwon, 2007. All rights reserved. UMI Number: 3259501 Copyright 2007 by Kwon, Yoo Jin All rights reserved. UMI Microform 3259501 Copyright 2007 by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights reserved. This microform edition is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest Information and Learning Company 300 North Zeeb Road P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, MI 48106-1346 ii TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT............................................................................................................................. -
Sociology As Self-Transformation
SOCIOLOGY AS BOURDIEU'SSELF-TRANSFORMATION CLASS THEORY The Appeal &The Limitations Academic of as the Revolutionary Work of Pierre Bourdieu DYLAN RILEY ierre Bourdieu was a universal intellectual whose work ranges from P highly abstract, quasi-philosophical explorations to survey research, and whose enormous contemporary influence is only comparable to that previously enjoyed by Sartre or Foucault. Born in 1930 in a small provincial town in southwestern France where his father was the local postman, he made his way to the pinnacle of the French academic establishment, the École Normale Supérieur ( ENS), receiving the agrégation in philosophy in 1955. Unlike many other normaliens of his generation, Bourdieu did not join the Communist Party, although his close collaborator Jean-Claude Passeron did form part of a heterodox communist cell organized by Michel Foucault, and Bourdieu was clearly influenced by Althusserian Marxism in this period.1 Following his agrégation, Bourdieu’s original plan was to produce a thesis under the direction of the eminent philosopher of science and historical epistemologist Georges Canguilhem. But his philosophical career was interrupted by the draf. The young scholar was sent to Algeria, evidently as 1 David Swartz, Culture and Power: The Sociology of Pierre Bourdieu (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1997), 20. Catalyst SUMMER 2017 punishment for his anticolonial politics,2 where he performed military service for a year and subsequently decided to stay on as a lecturer in the Faculty of Letters at Algiers.3 Bourdieu’s Algerian experience was decisive for his later intellectual formation; here he turned away from epistemology and toward fieldwork, producing two masterful ethnographic studies: Sociologie de l’Algérie and Esquisse d’une théorie de la pratique. -
A Critique of Bourdieu's Distinction Author(S): David Gartman Source: American Journal of Sociology, Vol
Culture as Class Symbolization or Mass Reification? A Critique of Bourdieu's Distinction Author(s): David Gartman Source: American Journal of Sociology, Vol. 97, No. 2 (Sep., 1991), pp. 421-447 Published by: The University of Chicago Press Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/2781382 . Accessed: 25/01/2014 13:50 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The University of Chicago Press is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to American Journal of Sociology. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 129.12.11.80 on Sat, 25 Jan 2014 13:50:02 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Culture as Class Symbolization or Mass Reification? A Critique of Bourdieu's Distinction' David Gartman University of South Alabama Pierre Bourdieu's theory of culture as a system of symbols further- ing a misrecognition of class is critically compared to the Frankfurt school's theory of culture as reifying commodities furthering an unrecognition of class. Because of their approaches to history, both theories recognize only part of the complex reality of modern capi- talist culture. Bourdieu's ahistorical structuralism fails to grasp the historical changes produced in culture by capitalism, while critical theory's essentialism fails to specify the concrete factors mediating the historical effects of capitalism on culture. -
Rebel Cities: from the Right to the City to the Urban Revolution
REBEL CITIES REBEL CITIES From the Right to the City to the Urban Revolution David Harvey VERSO London • New York First published by Verso 20 12 © David Harvey All rights reserved 'Ihe moral rights of the author have been asserted 13579108642 Verso UK: 6 Meard Street, London WI F OEG US: 20 Jay Street, Suite 1010, Brooklyn, NY 1120 I www.versobooks.com Verso is the imprint of New Left Books eiSBN-13: 978-1-84467-904-1 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Harvey, David, 1935- Rebel cities : from the right to the city to the urban revolution I David Harvey. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-1-84467-882-2 (alk. paper) -- ISBN 978-1-84467-904-1 I. Anti-globalization movement--Case studies. 2. Social justice--Case studies. 3. Capitalism--Case studies. I. Title. HN17.5.H355 2012 303.3'72--dc23 2011047924 Typeset in Minion by MJ Gavan, Cornwall Printed in the US by Maple Vail For Delfina and all other graduating students everywhere Contents Preface: Henri Lefebvre's Vision ix Section 1: The Right to the City The Right to the City 3 2 The Urban Roots of Capitalist Crises 27 3 The Creation of the Urban Commons 67 4 The Art of Rent 89 Section II: Rebel Cities 5 Reclaiming the City for Anti-Capitalist Struggle 115 6 London 201 1: Feral Capitalism Hits the Streets 155 7 #OWS: The Party of Wall Street Meets Its Nemesis 159 Acknowledgments 165 Notes 167 Index 181 PREFACE Henri Lefebvre's Vision ometime in the mid 1970s in Paris I came across a poster put out by S the Ecologistes, a radical neighborhood action movement dedicated to creating a more ecologically sensitive mode of city living, depicting an alternative vision for the city. -
Distinction Worldwide?: Bourdieu's Theory of Taste in International Context
Poetics 31 (2003) 403–421 www.elsevier.com/locate/poetic Distinction worldwide?: Bourdieu’s theory of taste in international context Danielle Kane1 Department of Sociology, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA 19104-62, USA Abstract Applications of Bourdieu’s theory of taste have focused almost exclusively on French- American comparisons. This paper uses original data to identify the cultural repertoires, the level of cultural participation, and the personal qualities used in symbolic boundary forma- tion for an international sample of young elites. The study found evidence for two domains of cultural stratification: arts activities and sports activities. Rates of participation in arts activ- ities varied across world region but were consistently higher than arts participation found in the GSS national sample. Regional variations in personal qualities desired in friends cast new light on past comparisons; again, despite this variation, arts-related personal qualities were valued more by this sample of elites than by the GSS sample. Sports activities emerged as a major candidate for legitimate culture in the examples of upper-class cultural repertoires generated by respondents; American domination of sports culture was the only consistent regional pattern found. A major finding of this study is the disjuncture in findings among cultural repertoires, cultural participation, and symbolic boundaries, all of which have been assumed to be aspects of a single cultural stratification concept. # 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. 1. Introduction Pierre Bourdieu’s theory of taste revolutionized the understanding of the social structural underpinnings of culture. Since the publication of Distinction in English (1984) an intense debate among sociologists of culture has taken place, focusing 1 Present address: 113 McNeil, 3718 Locust Walk, Philadelphia, PA 19104-6299, USA. -
UNIVERZITA KARLOVA V PRAZE Semiotics and Fashion Studies
UNIVERZITA KARLOVA V PRAZE FAKULTA HUMANITNÍCH STUDIÍ Katedra elektronicke kultury a semiotiky Mgr. Daria Mikerina Semiotics and Fashion Studies: Limits and possibilities of a systemic approach to contemporary fashion Diplomová práce Vedoucí práce: doc. Mgr. Benedetta Zaccarello, Ph.D. et Ph.D. Praha 2016 Prohlášení Prohlašuji, že jsem práci vypracoval/a samostatně. Všechny použite prameny a literatura byly řádně citovány. Práce nebyla využita k získání jineho nebo stejneho titulu. V Praze dne 08. 1. 2016 Mgr. Daria Mikerina …............................................ Acknowledgement I would like to thank my supervisor, doc. Mgr. Benedetta Zaccarello, Ph.D. et Ph.D. for guidance, encouragement, advice and support. I would also like to thank my friend J. Christian Odehnal for proofreading the thesis and continued support. Table of Contents Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 1 Chapter 1: The concept of system in semiotics. Fashion as an open and dynamic system ….................................................................. 7 Linguistic system according to Saussure ● The role of the system in structuralism ● Cultural systems ● The place of language in non-linguistic systems ● Typology of systems in semiotics ● Systems and codes ● Fashion as open and dynamic system ● The critique of structure and system Chapter 2: How fashion is produced. The phenomenon of named signifieds in Barthes' Fashion System …....................... 15 Part I. Finding a new methodology. “Fashion is nothing except what it is said to be” ….......................................................... 15 Sociology of fashion and semiology of fashion ● Dress and dressing. Fashion as “a langue without parole” ● Clothing and fashion ● Is dress an index? ● Semiology and its relation to other ways of analysis of fashion ●“To accept a simplification in all its openness” ● To describe fashion as a system we need to modify it ● Research object ● The necessity of “translation” Part II. -
Feminist Media Studies
UPPSALA UNIVERSITY DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION SCIENCE DIVISION OF MEDIA AND COMMUNICATION MASTER THESIS IN MEDIA AND COMMUNICATION STUDIES D-LEVEL, SPRING TERM 2007 FASHIONING THE FEMALE An Analysis of the “Fashionable Woman” in ELLE Magazine – Now and Then Author: Heidi Marie Nömm Tutor: Ylva Ekström ABSTRACT Title: FASHIONING THE FEMALE - An Analysis of the “Fashionable Woman” in ELLE Magazine - Now and Then Number of pages: 57 (including diagrams and figures, excluding enclosures) Author: Heidi Marie Nömm Tutor: Ylva Ekström Course: Media and Communication Studies D Level, Master Thesis Period: Spring term 2007 University: Uppsala University Division of Media and Communication Department of Information Science Purpose/Aim: The purpose of this master thesis is to investigate how fashion can function as a communication channel and how the modern Swedish woman is represented in ELLE magazine within two different fashion decades, in 1992 and 2007. Material: Swedish ELLE magazines No. 1-4 1992 and No. 1-4 2007. Method: A complementary combination of quantitative content analysis, semiotics and critical discourse analysis. Main results: A number of differences, as well as similarities can be recognised between the fashions of 1992 and 2007. The latter one is characterised by women looking serious, sometimes even austere while 1992 shows often happy women. The fashion styles are much more casual, colourful and more accessorised by jewellery etc. in 1992, while the clothing in 2007 is often tight, body hugging and reveals more skin. Concerning ethnicity, 2007 only shows white women, often very feminine and wearing mostly dresses and rarely pants, whereas 1992 is characterised by ELLE’s effort to show a more multicultural and diversified picture of the female. -
MPC MAJOR RESEARCH PAPER Why My Dad Is Not Dangerously
MPC MAJOR RESEARCH PAPER Why My Dad Is Not Dangerously Regular: Normcore and The Communication of Identity Brittney Brightman Professor Jessica Mudry The Major Research Paper is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Professional Communication Ryerson University Toronto, Ontario, Canada August 2015 AUTHOR'S DECLARATION I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this Major Research Paper and the accompanying Research Poster. This is a true copy of the MRP and the research poster, including any required final revisions, as accepted by my examiners. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this major research paper and/or poster to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP and/or poster by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP and/or my MRP research poster may be made electronically available to the public. ii ABSTRACT Background: Using descriptors such as “dangerously regular”, K-Hole’s style movement has been making waves in the fashion industry for its unique, yet familiar Jerry Seinfeld-esque style. This de rigueur ensemble of the 90’s has been revamped into today’s Normcore. A Normcore enthusiast is someone who has mastered the coolness and individuality of fashion and is now interested in blending in. Purpose: The goal of this research was to understand the cultural relevance of the fashion trend Normcore, its subsequent relationship to fashion and identity, as well as what it reveals about contemporary Western culture and the communicative abilities of fashion. -
Produção De Coleção Moda Praia
UNIVERSIDADE FEDERAL DE PERNAMBUCO CENTRO ACDÊMICO DO AGRESTE NÚCLEO DE DESIGN CURSO DE DESIGN Produção de coleção moda praia Inspirada em fotografias de moda dos anos 50 e 60. Aluno(a): Gabriela Cavalcanti Vieira da cunha Orientador(a): Daniela CARUARU 2016 Gabriela Cavalcanti Vieira da Cunha Produção de coleção moda praia Inspirada em fotografias de moda dos anos 50 e 60 Monografia apresentada junto ao curso de Design da Universidade Federal de Pernambuco, campus acadêmico do Agreste. Com a orientação da professora Daniela Nery Bracchi. CARUARU 2016 C972p Cunha, Gabriela Cavalcanti Vieira da. Produção de coleção de moda praia inspirada em fotografias de moda dos anos 50 e 60. / Gabriela Cavalcanti Vieira da Cunha. – 2016. 83f. il. ; 30 cm. Orientadora: Daniela Nery Bracchi Monografia (Trabalho de Conclusão de Pernambuco) – Universidade Federal de Pernambuco, CAA, Design, 2016. Inclui Referências. 1. Design. 2. Fotografia de moda. 3. Trajes de banho. 4. Semiótica. 5. Bailey, David Royston, 1938 -. 6. Dahl-Wolfe, Louise, 1895 – 1989. I. Bracchi, Daniela Nery (Orientadora). II. Título. 740 CDD (23. ed.) UFPE (CAA 2016-128) UNIVERSIDADE FEDERAL DE PERNAMBUCO CENTRO ACADÊMICO DO AGRESTE NÚCLEO DE DESIGN PARECER DE COMISSÃO EXAMINADORA DE DEFESA DE PROJETO DE GRADUAÇÃO EM DESIGN DE Gabriela Cavalcanti Vieira da Cunha “Produção de coleção moda praia” A comissão examinadora, composta pelos membros abaixo, sob a presidência do primeiro, considera a aluna Gabriela Cavalcanti Vieira da Cunha APROVADA Caruaru, 11 de abril de 2016. Professora Daniela Nery Bracchi ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Professor Charles Leite ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Maria Ribeiro ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Agradecimentos Agradeço primeiramente a minha orientadora Prof.ª Daniela Bracchi, por seu estímulo e assistência. -
Symbolic Violence
CHAPTER 4. PIERRE BOURDIEU ON SOCIAL CLASS AND SYMBOLIC VIOLENCE Elliot B. Weininger At the time of his death in January 2002, Pierre Bourdieu was perhaps the most prominent sociologist in the world (see Calhoun and Wacquant 2002). As the author of numerous classic works, he had become a necessary reference point in various “specialty” areas throughout the discipline (including education, culture, “theory,” and the sociology of knowledge); he had also achieved canonical status in cultural anthropology as a result of his studies of the Kabyle in northern Algeria during the war for independence and its aftermath.1 Nevertheless, Bourdieu’s prominence increased exponentially during the 1990s, when he became a highly visible participant in political struggles against the neoliberal orthodoxy that was coming to dominate political discourse in Continental Europe (see Bourdieu 1998a; 2001a).2 Social class constitutes a fundamental analytic category in of much of Bourdieu’s research—so much so that he is routinely included in lists of leading contemporary class theorists. Yet despite this centrality, the particular understanding of this concept that animates his work remains murky in the secondary literature. There are, in fact, a number of reasons why it is unusually difficult to grasp: • Neither Bourdieu’s understanding of class nor his more general conceptual apparatus can be identified with a single “father figure”—whether this be Marx, Weber, Durkheim, or some 1 For a general introduction to Bourdieu’s work, see Bourdieu and Wacquant (1992), as well as Swartz (1997), Brubaker (1985), and the essays collected in Calhoun, LiPuma, and Postone (1993). 2 Political involvement, however, was not new to Bourdieu (see 2002). -
Bodies Rule! the Embodiment of Power Between Fashion and Politics
JOMEC Journal Journalism, Media and Cultural Studies Published by Cardiff University Press Bodies rule! The Embodiment of Power between Fashion and Politics Antonella Giannone Weißensee Kunsthochschule Berlin Email: [email protected] Keywords Body Power Fashion Pop-culture Politics Abstract This article focuses on the construction of power via the body in the context of the Italian political scene of the last two decades. From a semiotic and fashion-theory perspective, the article interprets local peculiarities through the lens of more general issues concerning the way pop, mass and media culture have been transforming our relation to power, as well as to the high symbolic body of ‘the chief’. Clothing signs, fashion mechanisms and figures connected to fashion imagery have played an important role in redefining power as a gendered, bodily and visual discourse, which is not only carried on by media, but, above all, created in mediated contexts. Contributor Note Antonella Giannone teaches Fashion theory and Fashion history at the Berlin Weissensee School of Art. Her work and research is mainly concerned with semiotics of fashion and clothing, fashion theory and body culture. Among her publications: Underground Zone: Dandy, Punk, Beautiful People (Caratteri Mobili 2011) with Claudia Attimonelli; Manuale di comunicazione, cultura e sociologia della moda (vol. V: Performance, Meltemi 2007) with Patrizia Calefato; Kleidung als Zeichen (Weidler, 2005). Citation Giannone, Antonella (2015), ‘Bodies rule! The Embodiment of Power between Fashion and Politics’, JOMEC Journal 8, ‘Italian Cultural Studies’, ed. Floriana Bernardi. http://dx.doi.org/10.18573/j.2015.10029 www.cf.ac.uk/JOMECjournal @JOMECjournal Introduction the media, but is essentially created in mediated contexts. -
Il Ruolo Della Moda Nei Processi Di Inclusione Ed Esclusione Sociale
Il ruolo della moda nei processi di inclusione ed esclusione sociale. La teoria di Simmel INDICE Introduzione Capitolo I Il fenomeno della moda 1.1 Il significato sociale della moda 1.2 Le funzioni dell’abito: protezione, pudore ed esibizionismo 1.3 Moda e abbigliamento come mezzi di comunicazione e di espressione dell’individualità 1.3.1 Il linguaggio della moda. 1.3.2 È possibile una semiotica della moda? 1.4. Il pensiero di Simmel: le emozioni diventano moda 1.4.1 Il colore delle emozioni 1.4.2 Il contagio emotivo Capitolo II Moda e multiculturalità: una convergenza necessaria 2.1 Globalizzazione, flussi migratori e multiculturalità 2.2 La questione dell’identità etnica: dentro, fuori, in mezzo. 2.2.1 Assimilazione 2.2.2 Revival etnico 2.2.3 Riflessività 2.3 Vestire la propria identità 2.4 Il neo-etnico: gli stilisti interpretano l’interculturalità Capitolo III Strategie identitarie nella casistica applicativa 1 3.1 La moda islamica: l’hijab e i diversi volti del velo islamico ed il burkini 3.1.1 La moda tra apertura a nuovi mercati e appropriazione culturale 3.2 I rapporti tra Oriente e Occidente: il caso della Cina 3.3 L’India in passerella: cosa ci racconta la moda indiana? 3.4 Il Congo veste Prada: l’edonismo africano dei Sapeurs Conclusioni Riferimenti bibliografici 2 INTRODUZIONE In un mondo dove le garanzie di ordine e di senso sembrano venire meno, il confluire di persone provenienti da luoghi e culture diverse aumenta in modo esponenziale il senso di incertezza. La realtà appare ormai destrutturata, liquida, precaria e, in quanto tale, priva di punti di riferimento fermi e stabili.