© Lonely Planet Publications 665 Index

Gauteng 401, 418 (CT) 107 ABBREVIATIONS KwaZulu-Natal 326 uShaka Marine World (KZN) 308-9 ACTCT CapeAustralian Town Capital Northern Cape 528 architecture 60-1 Territory EC Soweto 418 area codes 619 NSW New South Wales FS Free State language 652-4 Arniston (Waenhuiskrans; WC) 188-9 NT Northern Territory G Afrikaners people 55 art galleries, see galleries, museums Qld Queensland KNP AIDS, see HIV/AIDS arts 59-63, see also individual arts SA South Australia KZN KwaZulu-Natal air travel ATMs 616 Tas Tasmania L Limpopo airlines 625-6 Augrabies Falls National Park (NC) 541-2 Vic Victoria LES Lesotho airports 624-5 aviaries WA Western Australia M tickets 626-7 Birds of Eden 222 NC Northern Cape to/from Lesotho 625-6 Bird Park 308 NW North-West Province to/from 624-9 World of Birds 126 SW Swaziland to/from Swaziland 625-6 WC Western Cape within South Africa 633-4 B Alexander Bay (NC) 524 B&Bs 599 Alice (EC) 271 Baboon Matters (CT) 157 !Khwa ttu (WC) 228 Aliwal North (EC) 295-6 Badplaas (M) 462 |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transformation Aliwal Shoal (KZN) 322 Bainskloof Pass (WC) 179 Park (NC) 545-6 Amanzimtoti (KZN) 320 Baker, Herbert 61, 127, 154, 155, 296, INDEX 2010 FIFA World Cup 18, 20, 247, 374, Amathole (EC) 270-9 431, 432, 439, 492 411, 455, 485, 511, 624 (EC) 271-3 Ballito (KZN) 325-6 Amatigulu (KZN) 326 ballooning 177, 453, 508, 511, 515, 602 A ANC, see African National Congress Barberton (M) 460-2, 461 abseiling 592 Anglo-Boer Wars 37-8 bargaining 618 Cape Town 128, 4 Free State 372, 374, 386 Barkly East (EC) 294-5 Eastern Cape 239, 272, 281, 293 Gauteng 391, 393, 401, 424, Basotho blanket 561 KwaZulu-Natal 361 430, 438 Basotho Cultural Village (FS) 383 Lesotho 557, 567 KwaZulu-Natal 335, 363-4, 365, Basotho people 54, 551-4, 570, 12, 549 Limpopo 508 366, 367, 368 Basotho Pony Trekking Centre (LES) 566 Mpumalanga 452 Limpopo 500, 501 bathrooms 620 Swaziland 592 Mpumalanga 443, 461, 463 Bathurst (EC) 258-9 Western Cape 199, 214, 217 Northern Province 528 (KZN) 36, 356, accommodation 598-601, see also North-West Province 520 369-70, 429-30 individual locations Swaziland 578, 589 Battle of Colenso (KZN) 364 Acornhoek (L) 508 Anglo-Zulu War 329, 331, 367, see Battle of Isandlwana (KZN) 368-9, 370 Act of Union 39 also Battlefields Battle of Spioenkop (KZN) 366 activities 601-7, see also individual animals 80-1, 84, 109-23, see also Battlefields (KZN) 362-70, 363 activities individual animals beaches highlights 21 29, 40-4, 47, 59, 90, 418, Amanzimtoti (KZN) 320 Addo Elephant National Park (EC) 465-6 Ballito (KZN) 325 252-3 books 40, 41, 42 Boulders Beach (CT) 157 African National Congress (ANC) 29, Gauteng 395, 401, 418 Buffalo Bay (WC) 215 39, 40, 42-51 KwaZulu-Natal 306, 326 Camps Bay (CT) 126 formation 39 Apartheid Museum 401 Clifton Beaches (CT) 125, 11 Free State 374 Apple Express 248 Coffee Bay (EC) 284 aquariums (KZN) 308-10 000 Map pages Bayworld (EC) 247 Eland’s Bay (WC) 230 000 Photograph pages East London Aquarium (EC) 277 Grotto Beach (WC) 184 Save Our Seas Shark Centre (CT) 156 Hamburg (EC) 261 666 Index (B)

beaches continued Eland’s Bay (WC) 230 Sabi Sand (KNP) 479 Kingsburgh (KZN) 320 Elim (L) 500 Sehlabathebe National Park Kleinmond (WC) 182 Gansbaai (WC) 187 (LES) 573 Kommetjie (CT) 131 Giant’s Castle (KZN) 350 Shongweni Resource Reserve Kosi Bay (KZN) 341-2 Goegap Nature Reserve (NC) 545 (KZN) 319 Langebaan (WC) 229 Golden Gate Highlands National Simunye (SW) 593 Llandudno (CT) 126 Park (FS) 383 Sodwana Bay (KZN) 339 Mbotyi (EC) 288 Gustav Klingbiel Nature Reserve Spioenkop Nature Reserve (KZN) Muizenberg (CT) 154 (M) 446 364 Park Rynie (KZN) 320 Hamburg (EC) 261 (KZN) 343 Pennington (KZN) 320 iSimangaliso Wetlands Park tours 135 Port Elizabeth (EC) 248 (KZN) 338 Tsitsikamma National Park (EC) 238 Ramsgate (KZN) 322 (KZN) 335 Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve Roman Beach (WC) 188 Jeffrey’s Bay (EC) 243 (KZN) 361 Salt Rock (KZN) 325 Karoo National Park (WC) 226 Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve Sandy Bay (CT) 126 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (KZN) 325 Scottburgh (KZN) 320 (NC) 537 uMkhuze Game Reserve (KZN) 342 Shaka’s Rock (KZN) 325 Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve (KZN) 327 Sheffield (KZN) 325 (WC) 181 Umkomaas (KZN) 320 Kosi Bay (KZN) 341 (KZN) 323 Warner Beach (KZN) 320 Kruger National Park (KNP) 470 Watersmeeting Nature Reserve Beaufort West (WC) 226 Kuruman (NC) 534 (EC) 258 Bela-Bela (Warmbaths; L) 491 Lake Eland Game Reserve (KZN) Welkom (FS) 380 Belvidere (WC) 216 322 West Coast National Park (WC) 228 Ben Lavin Nature Reserve (L) 495 Lake Sibaya (KZN) 340 Wilderness (WC) 213 Bergville (KZN) 348 Lambert’s Bay (WC) 231 Bloemfontein (FS) 372-8, 375 Bethlehem (FS) 385-6 Lammergeier Private Nature accommodation 376-7 INDEX Betty’s Bay (WC) 182 Reserve (EC) 295 activities 374 Bhisho (EC) 270-1 Madikwe Game Reserve (NW) 518 attractions 374-6 bicycle travel, see cycling Makuleke Contract Park (KNP) 480 entertainment 377-8 Big Bend (SW) 596 Malolotja Nature Reserve (SW) 591 food 377 Big Hole (NC) 527-8 Mapungubwe National Park travel to/from 378 Big Swing (M) 450 (L) 497 Blood River, Battle of (KZN) 36, 356, , Steve 29, 43, 44, 270, 271 Marakele National Park (L) 493 369-70, 429-30 birds 80-1, 120-3, 120-3 see also Mbuluzi Game Reserve (SW) 595 Blood River Monument (KZN) 369-70 birdwatching, penguins, vultures Mkhambhati Nature Reserve Bloukrans River Bridge (EC) 239, 602 birdwatching 603, see also birds (EC) 288 Blue Train 644 Amatigulu Nature Reserve (KZN) Mlawula Nature Reserve (SW) 594 Blyde River Canyon (M) 451-2, 8 326 Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary boat cruises, see also boat travel Ben Lavin Nature Reserve (L) 495 (SW) 587 Cape Town 128 BirdLife South Africa (KZN) 328 Mountain National Park iSimangaliso Wetland Park (KZN) Bontebok National Park (WC) 192 (EC) 263 338 books 80 Nduli Nature Reserve (EC) 290 Knysna (WC) 216 Camdeboo National Park (EC) 268 (KZN) 343 Mossel Bay (WC) 209 Cape Aguhas (WC) 188 Nelspruit (M) 457 Phalaborwa (L) 506 De Hoop Nature Reserve (WC) 189 Nylsvley Nature Reserve (L) 490 Port Elizabeth (EC) 248 Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk Nature Reserve (KZN) Simon’s Town (CT) 157 (KZN) 329 320 Upington (NC) 534 Drakensberg (KZN) 346 Oxbow (LES) 564 boat travel 632-3, 635, see also boat Durban area (KZN) 310 Phinda Private Game Reserve cruises, canoeing, kayaking Eastern & Western Shores (KZN) 339 (KZN) 343 34, 35, 36-7, see also Piet Retief (M) 463 Anglo-Boer Wars, Voortrekkers 000 Map pages Pilanesberg National Park (NW) 514 Free State 372 000 Photograph pages Polokwane Game Reserve (L) 487 Gauteng 391, 393, 425, 428 Richards Bay (KZN) 328 KwaZulu-Natal 302, 332 Index (B-C) 667

Lesotho 552 Calvinia (NC) 547-8 road distances 636 Limpopo 487 Camdeboo National Park (EC) 267-8, to/from Lesotho 631 Boer-Zulu War 36, 332 268 to/from Mozambique 632 Bokong Nature Reserve (LES) 567 camping 600 to/from South Africa 631-2 Bontebok National Park (WC) 191-2 Cango Caves (WC) 205 to/from Swaziland 632 books Cango Wildlife Ranch & top five 4WD trails 524 animals 84 Cheetahland (WC) 204, 602 within Lesotho 637-41 apartheid 40, 41, 42 canoeing 603, see also kayaking within South Africa 637-41 birds 80 Eastern Cape 260, 277, 280, 281, within Swaziland 637-41 culture 33, 60 283, 286, 287, 288 Castle of Good Hope (CT) 99 environmental issues 81, 85 KwaZulu-Natal 322, 340 Cathedral Peak Nature Reserve (KZN) food 72, 73 Limpopo 499 349 health 646 Northern Cape 541 caves hiking 345, 565, 606 Swaziland 592 Arniston (WC) 188 history 36, 48, 50 Western Cape 214, 215, 217 Bathplug Cave (KZN) 355 literature 21, 22, 59-60 canyoning, see kloofing Cango Caves (WC) 205 music 64, 69 Cape Agulhas (WC) 188 Echo Caves (M) 452 traditional mythology 60 Cape Columbine Nature Reserve Liphofung Cave (LES) 563 wine 74 (WC) 230 Makapan’s Cave (L) 489 women’s issues 57 Cape Flats (CT) 159-60 Sterkfontein Caves (G) 423-4 Boondocks (M) 462 Cape Floral Kingdom 84 Wonder Cave (G) 423 border crossings 629-30 Cape Hangklip (WC) 181 Cederberg Wilderness Area (WC) 231-2 Botha, PW (Pieter Willem) 43, 46 Cape Malays 55 cell phones 619 Botlierskop Private Game Reserve Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve Central Berg (KZN) 348-51 (WC) 208-9 (CT) 159 Central Karoo (WC) 224-7 INDEX Botshabelo (FS) 372 Cape St Francis (EC) 241 Ceres (WC) 194 Boulders Beach (CT) 157 Cape Town 89-160, 92-3, 96-7, Champagne Valley (KZN) 349-50 braais 75 100-1, 104-5, 106, 125 cheetahs 111, 111 Brenton (WC) 216 accommodation 137-41 De Wildt Cheetah Research Centre Britstown (WC) 533 activities 128-32 (G) 439-40 Buffalo Bay (WC) 215 attractions 95-128 Hlane Royal National Park (SW) 594 Bulembu (SW) 593 drinking 146-8 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park bungee jumping 209, 239, 602 emergency services 91 (NC) 537 bus travel 631-2, 635-7 entertainment 148-50 Kruger National Park 467, 469, 471 city buses 641 festivals 136-7 Marakele National Park (L) 493 to/from Botswana 631 food 142-6, 5 Mountain Zebra National Park to/from Lesotho 631 internet access 94 (EC) 263 to/from Mozambique 631 itineraries 94 Oudsthoorn (WC) 204 to/from Namibia 631, 632 medical services 94 Stellenbosch (WC) 171 to/from South Africa 631-2 money 94-5 children, travel with 75, 134, 607-9 to/from Swaziland 631, 632 safe travel 95 Chintsa (EC) 281 to/from Zimbabwe 632 shopping 150-2, 5 Christianity 58-9 within Lesotho 636-7 tourist information 95 churches within South Africa 635-6, 641 tours 99, 134-6 Calitzdorp Dutch Reformed Church within Swaziland 637 travel to/from 152-3 (WC) 202 bushbabies 113, 112 travel within 153-4 Colesburg Dutch Reformed Church Bushman’s Nek (KZN) 351, 354 walking tour 132-4, 133 (NC) 532 Bushveld (L) 489-93 Cape Town International Jazz Festival Church of the Vow (KZN) 358 bushwalking, see hiking (CT) 136 Dutch Reformed Church (WC) 190 business hours 607 Cape Vidal (KZN) 339, 340 Groote Kerk (CT) 103 Butha-Buthe (LES) 562 Capricorn (L) 485-9 Lutheran Church (CT) 103 car travel 630-2, 637-41 Modderpoort Cave Church (KZN) 387 C carjacking 641 Moravian Church (WC) 198 cafes 74 insurance 639 Oude Kerk (WC) 192 Calitzdorp (WC) 202 rental 638-9 Regina Mundi Church (G) 419 668 Index (C-D)

churches continued Hartbeespoort (NW) 512 Kruger National Park 470 St John’s Church (L) 492 Hluhluwe (KZN) 332 Lady Grey (EC) 295 Dutch Reformed Hermanus (WC) 183 Langebaan (WC) 229 Church (WC) 190 (G) 400, 412 Mlawula Nature Reserve (SW) 594 Villa Maria Mission (LES) 571 Leribe (Hlotse; LES) 561 Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary cinema 59 Liphofung Cave Cultural Historical (SW) 587 Citrusdal (WC) 232 Site (LES) 563 Mokala National Park (NC) 532 Clanwilliam (WC) 233-4 Malkerns Valley (SW) 589 Mokopane (L) 490 Clarens (KZN) 384-5 Manzini (SW) 589 Montagu (WC) 200 Clifton Beaches (CT) 125, 11 Maseru (LES) 558 Oudtshoorn (WC) 205 climate 19-20, 609 Mbabane (SW) 583 Outeniqua Pass (WC) 213 climate change 82, 625 Midlands (LES) 358 Parys (KZN) 379 climbing 607 Morija Museum & Archives (LES) 560 Pietermaritzburg (KZN) 358 Cape Town 129-30 Muizenberg (CT) 156-7 Polokwane (L) 488 KwaZulu-Natal 348, 349 Ngwenya (SW) 591 Port Alfred (EC) 260 Mpumalanga 445-6 Piggs Peak (SW) 592 Port Edward (KZN) 324 Limpopo 490, 503 Pretoria (G) 437 Rhodes (EC) 294 Swaziland 580 Soweto (G) 422-3 Riemvasmaak (NC) 542 Western Cape 199 Teyateyaneng (LES) 560 Sabie (M) 448 Coastal Forest (KZN) 340-1 Thohoyandou (L) 498 Sani Top (LES) 565 Coetzee, JM 60 Tzaneen (L) 505 St Johns (EC) 286 Coffee Bay (EC) 284-5 Vaalwater (L) 492 Tour de Kruger (KNP) 470 Colenso (KZN) 363 Welwitischia Country Market tours 167-8 Colesberg (NC) 532 (NW) 512 Tzaneen (L) 503 Company’s Gardens (CT) 102 credit cards 616 Wild Coast (EC) 280 Compassberg (EC) 269 cricket 57-8 Witsand Nature Reserve (NC) 536 conservation 499, see also Cape Town 149 INDEX environmental issues Durban (KZN) 311 D consulates 611-12 Johannesburg (G) 411 da Gama, Vasco 31, 300, 308 costs 20-1, 600, 613, see also money, crime 17 dancing 63 inside front cover Cullinan Diamond Mine (G) 439 dangers 610-11 courses 609-10 culture 52-63 Darling (WC) 227-8 field-guide training 610 books 33, 60 De Aar (NC) 532 food 75 itineraries 27-8, 27 De Beers Consolidated Mines language 609-10 customs regulations 610 Company (NC) 525, 527-9 wine-tasting 610 Cwebe Nature Reserve (EC) 282-3 De Hoop Nature Reserve (WC) 189 Cradle Nature Reserve (G) 424 cycling 606-7, 630, 634-5 de Klerk, FW 45, 47-8 Cradle of Humankind (G) 423-4 Augrabies Falls National Park De Rust (WC) 205 Cradock (EC) 262-3, 262 (NC) 541 De Wildt Cheetah Research Centre craft shopping 62, 618 Bainskloof Pass (WC) 179 (G) 439-40 !Khwa ttu (WC) 228 Ben Lavin Nature Reserve (L) 495 Debengeni Falls (L) 502 Acornhoek (L) 508 Bulembu (SW) 593 diamonds 37, 439, 510, 523-5, 527-8, Barkly East (EC) 294 Cape Town 128 547 Cape Town 150-1 Cederberg Wilderness Area (WC) Dias, Bartholomeu 31, 208 Darling (WC) 227 232 Die Hel (WC) 225 Durban (KZN) 316 De Hoop Nature Reserve (WC) 189 Diepwalle (WC) 221 Elim (L) 500 Durban (KZN) 311 difaqane 35-6, 425, 442 Elliot (EC) 293 Franschhoek (WC) 173 dinosaur footprints 559, 560, 561-2, 571 Ezulwini Valley (SW) 587 Goegap Nature Reserve (NC) 545 disabilities, travellers with 620-1 Franschhoek (WC) 173-5 Graskop (M) 450 discount cards 85, 611 Hamburg (EC) 261 Hlane Royal National Park (SW) 594 Museum (CT) 99 Hogsback (EC) 272 diving 602, 603-4 000 Map pages Inkwenkwezi Game Reserve (EC) 281 Aliwal Shoal (KZN) 322 000 Photograph pages Kamberg Nature Reserve (KZN) 352 Cape Town 128, 135 Knysna (WC) 217, 221 Durban (KZN) 310 INDEX 669

FIFA 2010 FIFA also see Index (D-F) Index (reed) dance (SW) 585 dance (reed) Carnival (CT) 136 (LES) 68, 560 (KZN)Music 309 Festival 293, 294, 295 353, 367 Kavadi (KZN) 309 Festival King Shaka Day (KZN)326, 330 Knysna (WC)217-18 Morija Arts & Cultural Festival National Arts (EC) 256 Festival Nelspruit (M) 457 (CT)Obz Festival 137 (G) 432 Oppikoppi Music Festival Oudtshoorn (WC) 205 Ox Braai (EC) 258 Pretoria (G) 432 Reed Dance (Zulu; KZN) 330 Robertson (WC) 196 (KZN) 330 Shembe Festival Soweto (G) 420 Soweto Arts (G) 420 Festival (KZN) 353 Festival Splashy Fen Standard Bank Awesome Africa Stellenbosch (WC) 168 umhlanga (WC) 168 Wine Festival 411, 455, 485, 511, 624 Eastern Cape 282, 284, 286, 288, State 379, 380 Free KwaZulu-Natal 310, 322, 339, 352, 563, 564, 566, 573 Lesotho Limpopo 492, 501 Swaziland 582 Western Cape 183, 215 books 72, 73 courses 75 customs 75 glossary 75-8 Grahamstown (EC) 256 (WC) 183 Whale Festival Hermanus Incwala (SW) 585 InniBos (M) 457 402 Johannesburg (G) Kaapse Klopse Cape Town Minstrel World Cup Durban (KZN) 311 Johannesburg (G) 411 Soweto (G) 422 Ficksburg (KZN)Ficksburg 386-7 2010 World Cup 18, 20, 247, 374, FIFA fishing 604-5 food 72-3, 75, 613 football (soccer) 57, Fort Beaufort (EC) 271 Fouriesburg (KZN) 386 328 382 584 445 236 see also individual 9 , see inside front cover see inside front cover Kunstefees (WC)Kunstefees 205 (CT)Festival 136 festivals ABSA Klein Karoo Nationale AfricaBurn (NC) festival 547 Cape Town 136-7 Cape Town International Jazz (KZN) 386 Cherry Festival Dullstroom (M) 444 Durban (KZN) 309 Gay Pride March (G) 402 (KZN) 332 books 81, 85 climate change 82, 625 conservation 499 82 internet resources ivory trading 80 land degradation 85, 86 86 Lesotho travel 86 responsible sustainable development 85, 86 Swaziland 86-8 food 278 access 276 internet tourist 276 information travel to/from 279 travel to/from 237 F (KZN) Bay 339 False (KZN) Island 339 Fani’s 612-13, festivals Elim (L) 500-1 Elliot (EC) 293 email services 615 Emakhosini Heritage Ophathe Park embassies 611-12 emergencies, (SW) 593 Emlembe Peak environmental issues 84-8 Eshowe (KZN) 328-9 Estcourt (KZN) 362-4 events 612-13 exchange rates (SW) 583-8, Ezulwini Valley Eastern Cape 235-96, Eastern Cape 235-96, Eastern Highlands381-8, (FS) Eastern Karoo (EC) 261-70 452-63, Eastern Lowveld (KZN)Eastern Shores 339 economy 17, 18, 52, 53, 53-6, 553-4 Eland’s Bay (WC) 230-1 electricity 598 Elephant Coast, the (KZN) 336-43, elephants 117, , 344 4 304-5 , wine 274-5 301 see also car travel 9 see , 223, 231 322 307 accommodation 310-13 activities 310 attractions 306-9 drinking 315 emergency services 303 entertainment 315-16 309 festivals food 313-15 internet access 303 medical services 303 travel 306 safe shopping 316 tourist information 303 travel to/from 316-18 travel within 318 102, 208 accommodation 277-8 activities 276-7 attractions 276 entertainment 278-9 445 Eastern Cape 243, 248, 278, 288 KwaZulu-Natal 310, 324, 336, 338 Western Cape 188, 209, 215, 221, Gansbaai(WC) 186, 187 (WC)Hermanus 183 Knysna (WC) 217 Coast (KZN)KwaZulu-Natal South Mossel Bay (WC) 209 Port (EC) Alfred 260 Port (EC) Elizabeth 248 Port Johns (EC) St 287 Sodwana Bay (KZN) 339, 340 driving, (VOC) 33, Dutch Reformed Church 58-9 ReserveDwesa Nature (EC) 282-3, East Griqualand (KZN) 354-5 East London (EC) 273-9, E Drakensberg range (KZN) 343-55, Drakenstein Prison 177 drinks 73-4, 506, drugs 611 Duivelskloof (L) 504-5 Dullstroom (M) 443-5 Dundee (KZN) 368 Durban (KZN) 300-18, Drakensberg Escarpment (M) 443-52, Dlinza Forest ReserveDlinza Forest (KZN) 329 dolphin-watching 670 Index (F-H)

Franschhoek (WC) 171-5, 174 What if the World (CT) 151 Great Zimbabwe 32 Free State 371-88, 373 William Humphreys Art Gallery Green Point Stadium (CT) 107-8 travel to/from 372 (NC) 529 Greyton (WC) 198-9 Freedom Park (G) 429 Gamkaskloof Nature Reserve (WC) 225 Griqua people 34, 37, 354 fynbos 84, 124 GaModjadji (L) 505 Groot Constantia (CT) 127 Gandhi, Mahatma (Mohandas) 38, 400 Groote Schuur (CT) 127 G Gansbaai (WC) 187-8 Groutville (KZN) 326 Galeshewe (NC) 528 Garden of Eden (WC) 221 guest houses 599 galleries Garden Route (WC) 207-24, 208-9 African Art Centre (KZN) 316 gardens H Ann Bryant Art Gallery (EC) 276 Botanic Gardens, Durban (KZN) 308 Ha Baroana (LES) 559 Art & Wine Gallery on Main Company’s Gardens (CT) 102 Ha Kome cave houses (LES) 561 (KZN) 385 Harold Porter National Botanical Haenertsburg (L) 501-2 AVA Gallery (CT) 151 Gardens (WC) 182 Hamburg (EC) 261 Campbell Collections (KZN) 307 Hester Malan Wildflower Garden Harrismith (KZN) 381-2 Carnegie Art Gallery (KZN) 367 (NC) 545 Hartbeespoort Dam (NW) 512 Castle of Good Hope (CT) 99 Hogsback Ecoshine (EC) 272 Hazyview (M) 452-4 Clarens galleries (KZN) 384 Karoo National Botanic Garden health 645-51 De Beers Centenary Art Gallery (WC) 195 books 646 (EC) 271 Kings Walden (L) 503 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 646 Duggan Cronin Gallery (NC) 529 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens diarrhoea 649-50 Durban Art Gallery (KZN) 306 (CT) 126 heatstroke 650 Gertrude Posel Gallery (G) 399 KwaZulu Natal National Botanical insurance 645 Hester Rupert Art Museum (EC) 265 Garden (KZN) 358 internet resources 646 Indingilizi Galley (SW) 583 Lowveld National Botanical Garden malaria 337, 485, 648, 649 Iziko Michaelis Collection (CT) 102 (M) 456 medical services 646-7 Iziko Rust-en-Vreugd (CT) 108-9 National Botanical Gardens (G) planning 645-6 INDEX Iziko South Africa National Gallery 438-9 traditional medicine 651 (CT) 108 Shaka Memorial Gardens (KZN) 326 vaccinations 645-6 Iziko William Fehr Collection (CT) Soekershof Walkabout (WC) 196 Hector Pieterson Museum (G) 419 99, 108 Gariep Dam Nature Reserve (FS) 388 Helderberg (WC) 171 Joan St Leger Lindbergh Arts Gauteng 389-440, 390-1 Hermanus (WC) 183-7, 184, 6 Centre (CT) 154-7 travel to/from 392-3 Herold’s Bay (WC) 213 Johannesburg Art Gallery (G) 399 gay travellers 613-14 Hibiscus Coast (KZN) 320-4 Kwazulu Natal Society of Arts Cape Town 138-9 hiking 604-6 (KZN) 308 Durban (KZN) 315 |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transforma- Michael Stevenson Gallery (CT) 151 Gay Pride March (G) 402 tion Park (NC) 546 Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Johannesburg (G) 410 Amathole Trail (EC) 271 Museum (EC) 247 Genadendal Mission Station (WC) 198 Augrabies Falls National Park Oliewenhuis Art Museum (FS) 374 geography 17, 18, 79, 124 (NC) 541 Owl House (EC) 269 George (WC) 212-13 Bainskloof Pass (WC) 179 Pierneef Museum (EC) 265 Ghost Mountain (KZN) 342 Bloupunt Trail (WC) 200 Polokwane Art Museum (L) 487 Giant’s Castle (KZN) 350-1 Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve Pretoria Art Museum (G) 431 giraffes 117, 109, 116 (M) 451 Sasol Art Museum (WC) 164 Goegap Nature Reserve (NC) 545 books 345, 565, 606 Standard Bank Art Gallery (G) 399 gold 38, 391, 393, 428, 442 Buffalo Bay (WC) 215 Starways Art Centre (EC) 272 Gold of Africa Museum (CT) 103 Bulembu (SW) 593 Tatham Art Gallery (KZN) 358 Golden Gate Highlands National Park Bushman’s Nek (KZN) 354 Umjindi Gallery (M) 460 (FS) 382-3 Camdeboo National Park (EC) 268 Univerity of Stellenbosch Art golf 129, 259, 310, 352, 470, 506, 594 Cape Agulhas (WC) 188 Gallery (WC) 166 Graaff-Reinet (EC) 264-7, 265 Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve Grahamstown (EC) 254-8, 254, 7 (CT) 159 000 Map pages Graskop (M) 450-1, 450 Cape Town 129-30 000 Photograph pages Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park Cathedral Peak Nature Reserve (KNP) 472-3 (KZN) 349 INDEX 671

117 Index (H) Index 6 35-6, 425, 442 7 , 562-3 (KZN) 345-6 (KZN) 361 Reserve 385 (FS) 306, 326, 395, 401, 418, 465-6 (G) 425 129-30, Durban (KZN) 300-2 Dutch settlement 33-4 electionsfree 48-9 30, 31, 34 internet resources Johannesburg (G) 393-5 465-6 Kruger National Park 551-4 Lesotho Pretoria (G) 425-8 Soweto (G) 417-19 Swaziland 578-9 417, 554 334 Ts’ehlanyane National Park (LES) National Park Ts’ehlanyane Trail (EC)Tsitsikamma 239 503 (L) Tzaneen Uitsoek Trail (M) 457 uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park Reserve Nature Umgeni Valley uMkhuze Game Reserve (KZN) 342 ReserveUmlalazi Nature (KZN) 327 502 of the Olifants (L) 501, Valley Trail (NC)Ventersvalle 546 Waterval Boven (M) 445-6 Wild Coast (EC) 280-1 ReserveWitsand Nature (NC) 536 Wolhuterskop Game & Nature apartheid 90, era 40-4, 47, 59, books 36, 48, 50 British settlement 34-5 Cape Town 90-1 difaqane Suikerbosrand Reserve Nature Swellendam Hiking Trail (WC) 190 (CT) Park Mountain National Table Hoedspruit (L) 507-8 Hogsback (EC) 271-3 holidays 20, 614-15 homelands 41 hitching 632, 641 HIV/AIDS 17-18, 46-7, 50, 51, 52, 53, (SW) 594 Hlane Royal National Park Hlotse (LES) 561-2 Hluhluwe (KZN) 332-3 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi (KZN) Park 333-4, history 30-51 Himeville (KZN) 352-4 Hinduism 59 hippopotamus 117, 585 (EC) 288 352 (SW) 587 (EC) 264 563-7 320 (WC) 177 565, 573 Mantenga Reserve Nature (SW) Mbabane (SW) 582 Mbotyi (EC) 288 Mbuluzi Game Reserve 595 (SW) (WC)McGregor 197 Mkhambhati Reserve Nature Mkhomazi (KZN) Wilderness Area ReserveMlawula Nature (SW) 594 SanctuaryMlilwane Wildlife (KZN)Mnweni Valley 348 ReserveModjadji Nature (L) 505 Mokopane (L) 490 Monk’s Cowl (KZN) 349 National Park Mountain Zebra Nelspruit (M) 457 Ngwempisi Gorge (SW) 596-7 Nieu Bethesda (EC) 269 Northeastern Highlands (LES) Nsoko (SW) 596 Oribi Reserve Gorge Nature (KZN) Otter Trail (EC) 239 Outeniqua Trail (WC) 221 Oystercatcher Trail (WC) 209 Reserve Mountain Nature Paarl Phalaborwa (L) 506 Phuthaditjhaba (KZN) 384 Polokwane Game Reserve (M) 486 Port (EC) Alfred 260 Prince Albert (WC) 224 Quthing (LES) 571 Rhebok Hiking Trail (KZN) 383 Riemvasmaak (NC) 542 Robertson (WC) 195 Roma (LES) 559 (KZN)Royal Natal National Park 347 Sabie (M) 447 (KZN)Sani Pass 354 (LES) Sehlabathebe National Park Semonkong (LES) 567 Sentinel Hiking 384 Trail (FS) HikingShipwreck Trail (EC) 279 Sodwana Bay (KZN) 339 Southbroom (KZN) 323 Soutpansberg (L) 495 St Johns (EC) 286 Strandloper Trail (EC) 282 231-2 (EC) 273 383 (FS) Park 333-4 (KZN) 338 319 471 Reserve (EC) 295 591-2 Cederberg Wilderness Area (WC) Wilderness Area Cederberg Citrusdal (WC) 233 (KZN)Cobham State Forest 351 Bay (EC)Coffee 285-6 (WC)Cogmanshoof Trail 200 Dassie Trail (NC) 541 ReserveDe Hoop Nature (WC) 189 ReserveDlinza Forest (KZN) 329 Dolphin Trail (EC) 239 Drakensberg range (KZN) 345-6 Drie Koppie Trail (EC) 268 ReservesEastern Cape Wildlife Eersterfontein Trail (EC) 268 Gansbaai (WC) 187 Garden Castle (KZN) 351 Giant’s Castle (KZN) 350 Giant’s Cup Trail (KZN) 346, 355 ReserveGoegap Nature (NC) 545 Golden Gate Highlands National Graskop (M) 450 KeiGreat River (EC) 283, 284 (WC)Greyton 198, 199 Trail (WC) McGregor Greyton 197 Hanglip Trail (L) 495 Highmoor Reserve Nature (KZN) 351 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi (KZN) Park Hoerikwaggo Trails (CT) 131 Hogsback (EC) 272 iSimangaliso Wetlands Park Ithala Game Reserve (KZN) 335 itineraries 28 Kaapschehoop Trail (M) 457 Kamberg Reserve Nature (KZN) 352 Karoo (WC) National Park 227 Trail (EC) 273 Klipspringer Hiking Trail (NC) 541 Knysna (WC) 217, 220 Kodaspiek Trail (NC) 546 ReserveKrantzkloof Nature (KZN) (KNP) 470, Kruger National Park Lammergeier Private Nature Trail (NC)Lelieshoek-Oemsberg 546 568 Lesotho Magaliesberg Mountains (NW) 513 Malealea (LES) 568 Malolotja Reserve Nature (SW) 672 Index (H-K)

horse riding 606, see also pony hot springs, see thermal pools shopping 412-13 trekking Howick (KZN) 361 tourist information 397 Addo Elephant National Park tours 402 (EC) 253 I travel to/from 413-15 Bushman’s Nek (KZN) 354 Imhoff Farm (CT) 159 travel within 415-16 Cape Town 130 immigration 624 Judaism 59 Clarens (KZN) 384 Incwala (SW) 585 Coffee Bay (EC) 284, 286 Indian people 37, 55, 298, 302, see K Drakensberg range (KZN) 353 also Gandhi, Mahatma ka Isaka Seme, Pixley 40 Dullstroom (M) 444 insurance 615, 639, 645 Kaapse Klopse Cape Town Minstrel Franschhoek (WC) 173 Intabazwe (FS) 381 Carnival (CT) 136 Hermanus (WC) 183 internet access 615 Kaditshwene (NW) 510 Hogsback (EC) 272 internet resources 22 Kakamas (NC) 540 iSimangaliso Wetlands Park accommodation 599 Kalahari, the (NC) 533-42 (KZN) 338 environmental issues 82 Kalk Bay (CT) 154-7, 155 Jeffrey’s Bay (EC) 243 health 646 Kamieskroon (NC) 546-7 Kei River (EC) 283 history 30, 31, 34 Karkloof (KZN) 361 Langebaan (WC) 229 music 64, 68, 69 Karoo, Central (WC) 224-46 Liphofung Cave Cultural Historical visual arts 62 Karoo, Eastern (EC) 261-70 Site (LES) 563 Isandlwana (KZN) 368-9 Karoo National Park (WC) 226-7 Mbabane (SW) 582 Isandlwana, Battle of (KZN) 368-9, 370 Karoo, Upper (NC) 525-33 Mbotyi (EC) 288 iSimangaliso Wetland Park (KZN) Kassiesbaai (WC) 188 Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary 336-40 Katberg Mountains (EC) 271-3 (SW) 587 Islam 59, 99 Katse (LES) 566-7 Monk’s Cowl (KZN) 349 Ithala Game Reserve (KZN) 335 kayaking 603, see also canoeing Plettenberg Bay (WC) 221 itineraries 23-9 Cape Columbine Nature Reserve Polokwane (L) 488 anti-apartheid movement 29 (WC) 230 INDEX Port Alfred (EC) 259 Cape Town 94 Cape Town 130 Port St Johns (EC) 287 culture 27-8, 27 Gansbaai (WC) 187 Rhodes (EC) 294 hiking 28 Hermanus (WC) 184 Robertson (WC) 195 national parks & reserves 23, 23 iSimangaliso Wetlands Park Royal Natal National Park (KZN) 347 safaris 23, 23 (KZN) 338 Sabie (M) 448 sustainable tourism 28-9 Maseru (LES) 557 Sani Pass (KZN) 354 Iziko Bo-Kaap Museum (CT) 103 Port St Johns (EC) 286 Songimvelo Game Reserve (M) Iziko Slave Lodge (CT) 102-3 Simon’s Town (CT) 130 462 Iziko South Africa Museum & Kei Mouth (EC) 281-2 Spioenkop Nature Reserve (KZN) Planetarium (CT) 108 Keimos (NC) 540 364 Iziko South Africa National Gallery Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (NC) Storms River (EC) 240 (CT) 108 537-40, 537, 10 Swellendam (WC) 190 Khoe-San people 30-1, 90, see also Underberg (KZN) 353 J San people Valley of the Olifants (L) 501 Jeffrey’s Bay (EC) 241-5, 242 Kimberley (NC) 527-31, 526 Waterberg (L) 492 Johannesburg (G) 393-416, 394-5, King William’s Town (EC) 270 Waterval Boven (M) 446 398, 403, 407 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens Wild Coast (EC) 280, 281 accommodation 402-6 (CT) 126 Wolhuterskop Game & Nature attractions 397-401 kiteboarding 132, 183, 311, 323 Reserve (FS) 385 drinking 409-10 Klaarstroom (WC) 224 hostels 600-1 emergency services 396 Kleinmond (WC) 182-3 hot-air ballooning 177, 453, 508, 511, entertainment 410-12 Kliptown (G) 419 515, 602 festivals 402 Kloof (KZN) 319 hotels 601 food 406-9 kloofing 128, 214, 293, 448, 501, internet access 396 602, 606 000 Map pages medical services 396 Knysna (WC) 215-20, 215, 218 000 Photograph pages money 396-7 Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve (WC) safe travel 397 181 INDEX 673 health

see also 581 590 555 119 see inside front see also inside front Index (K-M) Index 4 400, 430 496-7, cover 587-8 Robben Island 95-8 Western Cape 177 imprisonment 177, 45, 95-8, cover maps 615-16 Mapungubwe 32 (L) Mapungubwe National Park Mgungundlovu (KZN) 332 Midlands, the (KZN) 356-62 Millwood (WC) 216 minibus taxi travel 641-2 Mkhambhati Reserve Nature (EC) 288-9 Mkhaya Game Reserve (SW) 595-6 (KZN) 342 ReserveMlawula Nature (SW) 594 SanctuaryMlilwane Wildlife (SW) Mmabatho (NW) 519 (KZN)Mnweni Valley 348 mobile phones 619 Modimolle (Nylstroom; L) 490-1 ReserveModjadji Nature (L) 504-5 Modjadjiskloof (Duivelskloof; L) 504-5 Moffat mission (NC) 534 Mohale Dam (LES) 566 Mohale’s Hoek (LES) 570 Mokala (NC) National Park 531-2 Mokhotlong (LES) 564-5 Mokopane (Potgietersrus; L) 489-90 Mandela House Museum (G) 419 Manguang (KZN) 374 Manzini (SW) 589-91, Meiringspoort (WC) Pass 205, 224 Messina (L) 495-6 metric conversions, Maputsoe (LES) 561 Marakele (L) 493 National Park Margate (KZN) 322-3 Market (G) 412 Theatre Maropeng (G) 423 Masekela, Hugh 65, 66, 68 Maseru (LES) 554-8, Mateka (LES) 561 Matjiesfontein (WC) 225-6 Mbabane (SW) 580-3, meerkats 119, 204, Mbeki, 18, 49-50 Thabo Mbotyi (EC) 288-9 Mbuluzi Game Reserve (SW) 595 (WC)McGregor 197-8 598, measures medical services 646-7,

books 584 see also 520

494 11 483 551 110 , 11 425, 430, 432 11 , Cape Town 95-8, 103 Eastern Cape 271, 289-92 Gauteng 399, 400, 417, 418, 419, 386, 387 47-8, 51, 58, 64, (LES) 563 494 4 travel to/from 484-5 Cape Town 138-9 Durban (KZN) 315 Gay Pride March (G) 402 410 Johannesburg (G) travel to/from 554 Mafeteng (LES) 569-70 Mafikeng (NW) 519-21, Mafunyani Cultural Village (L) 508 Magaliesberg Mountains (NW) 512-13 magazines 598 (L) 502 Magoebaskloof Pass Majuba Mountain (KZN) 367 Makapan’s Cave (L) 489 Makeba, Miriam 43, 68 Makhado (L) 493-5, Makuleke (KNP) 480-1 Contract Park malaria 337, 485, 648, 649 Malealea (LES) 568-9 Malelane (M) 459-60 Malkerns (SW) 588-9, Valley Malolotja Reserve Nature 591-2 (SW) Maluti Mountains (FS) 382, 384, Mandela, Nelson 22, 29, 41, 42-3, 45, Liphofung Cave Cultural Historical Site 21, 22, 59-60, literature Lobamba (SW) 584-7 lodges 601 HillLone Tree (M) 462 (M) 446 Long Tom Pass Louis Trichardt (Makhado; L) 493-5, Lozitha State House (SW) 584 (M) 446-7 Lynedoch EcoVillage (WC) 170-1 M Maclear (EC) 293 Madikwe Game Reserve (NW) 516-19, lions 111, Leribe (Hlotse; LES) 561-2 Leribe (Hlotse; 613-14 lesbian travellers Village (G) 424 Cultural Lesedi 550-74, Lesotho (L) 501-2 Valley Letaba III, KingLetsie 571 Limpopo 482-508, 9 , 465 299 365 110 Afrikaans 38, 652-4 courses 609-10 food vocabulary 75-8 glossary 658-9 Ndebele 654 Sotho 655 Swati 655-6 656 Tsonga 656 Tswana 656 Xhosa 656-7 Zulu 657 443, 465, 485, 489 Eastern Cape 252, 253, 282 467, 479, 480 Kruger National Park KwaZulu-Natal 333, 343 Limpopo 491, 493, 505 Northern Cape 537 North-West514, 518 Province Western Cape 231 accommodation 472-6 accommodation activities 469-72 travel with 470 children, food 472-6 information 467 tours 470-1 travel to/from 476-8 travel to/from 298-300 L (WC)L’Agulhas 188 (EC)Lady Grey 295 Ladybrand (KZN) 387 Ladysmith (KZN) 365-7, Ladysmith Black Mambazo 69, 365 66, Laing’s Nek (KZN) 367 (L) 499-500 Lake Fundudzi Lake Sibaya (KZN) 340-1 Lala Nek (KZN) 340 Lambert’s Bay (WC) 231 Langebaan (WC) 229 language 652-7 legal matters 615 leopards 111, 468, Kruger National Park 464-81, Park Kruger National Kokstad (KZN)Kokstad 355 Komatipoort(M) 460 Kosi Bay (KZN) 341-2 Kroonstad (KZN) 380 430, 431, 37, 393, 428, Kruger, Paul Kuruman (NC) 533-4 KwaDukuza (Stanger; KZN) 326 KwaNgwanase (KZN) 341-2 KwaZulu-Natal 297-370, Kyalami (G) 412 674 Index (M)

money 20-1, 611, 616-17, see also Bayworld (EC) 247 Komatiland Forestry Museum costs, inside front cover Beaufort West (WC) 226 (M) 448 monkeys 113, 113 Bernberg Fashion Museum (G) 401 KwaMuhle Museum (KZN) 306 Monk’s Cowl (KZN) 349-50 Bloemfontein National Museum KwaZulu Cultural-Historical Montagu (WC) 199-202, 200 (FS) 376 Museum (KZN) 331 Mookgophong (Naboomspruit; L) 490 Calvinia Museum (NC) 547 Liliesleaf Farm (G) 401 Morgan’s Bay (EC) 281-2 Cape Town Holocaust Centre Lucas Meijer Museum (KZN) 335 Morija (LES) 560 (CT) 108 Luthuli Museum (KZN) 326 Morija Arts & Cultural Festival (LES) Catharina Brand Museum (KZN) 387 Lydenburg Museum (M) 446 68, 560 Central Garage Transport Museum Macrorie House Museum (KZN) 358 Moshoeshoe I 36, 551-2, 558-9, 561, (M) 449 Malealea Museum (LES) 569 562, 563 Chavonnes Battery Museum Mandela House Museum (G) 419 mosques (CT) 107 Masitise Cave House Museum Juma Mosque (KZN) 308 CP Nel Museum (WC) 203 (LES) 570-1 Noor el Hamedia Mosque (CT) 102 Cultural Museum (KZN) 365 Matsamo Cultural Village (M) 459 Owal Mosque (CT) 133 Diepkloof Farm Museum (G) 425 McGregor House Museum (NC) 528 Palm Tree Mosque (CT) 102 Diggings Museum (M) 449 Melrose House (G) 430 Mossel Bay (WC) 207-12, 210 District Six Museum (CT) 99 Montagu Museum (WC) 199-200 motorcycle travel 630-2, 637-41 Dresden Store (M) 449 Morija Museum & Archives (LES) mountain biking, see cycling Drostdy Museum (WC) 190 560 Mountain Zebra National Park (EC) Dukuza Museum (KZN) 326 Msunduzi Museum (KZN) 358 263-4 East Griqualand Museum (KZN) 355 Museum Africa (KZN) 399 Mphaki (LES) 571 East London Museum (EC) 276 Nababeep Mine Museum (NC) 545 Mpumalanga 441-63, 442 Fort Durnford (KZN) 362 Natal Museum (KZN) 358 travel to/from 443 Fort Nongqayi Museum Village National Cultural History Museum Mswati III, King 18, 66, 578, 579 (KZN) 329 (G) 431 Mswazi, King 578 Genadendal Mission Station National English Literary Museum INDEX Mthatha (EC) 289-92, 290 (WC) 198 (EC) 255 Mt Moorosi (LES) 571 George Museum (WC) 212 National Museum (FS) 376 Mtubatuba (KZN) 332 George Transport Museum (WC) Natural Science Museum (KZN) 306 Mtunzini (KZN) 327-8 212 Ncome Museum (KZN) 370 Muizenberg (CT) 154-7, 155 Gold of Africa Museum (CT) 103 Nelson Mandela Museum (EC) multiculturalism 54-5 Great Fish River Museum (EC) 262 290, 291 Museum Africa (KZN) 399 Hector Pieterson Museum (G) 419 Nelson Mandela Youth Heritage museums, see also war museums Himeville Museum (KZN) 353 Centre (EC) 291 AECI Dynamite Factory Museum Historical Museum (EC) 271 Ngwenya Mines & Visitors Centre (G) 401 House Museum (M) 449 (SW) 591 Afrikaans Language Museum (WC) Howick Museum (KZN) 361 Nieuwe Republiek Museum (KZN) 176-7 Hugh Exton Photographic Museum 335 Albany History Museum (EC) 255 (L) 486 Observatory Museum (EC) 255 Amathole Museum (EC) 270 Huguenot Memorial Museum Old Courthouse Museum (KZN) 306 Apartheid Museum (G) 401 (WC) 173 Old House Museum (KZN) 307 Arend Dieperink Museum (L) 489 Irma Stern Museum (CT) 127 Old Library (EC) 265 Bakone Malapa Open-Air Museum Iziko Bo-Kaap Museum (CT) 103 Old Parsonage Museum (KZN) 367 (L) 486 Iziko Slave Lodge (CT) 102-3 Olive Schreiner House (EC) 262 Barberton Museum (M) 460 Iziko South African Museum & Origins Centre (G) 399 Bartholomeu Dias Maritime Planetarium (CT) 108 Oude Kerk Volks Museum (WC) 192 Museum (WC) 208 Jetty 1 museum (CT) 98 Paarl Museum (WC) 176 Basotho Cultural Village (KZN) 383 Kimberley Big Hole mine museum Paul Kruger House Museum (G) 430 Bathurst Agricultural Museum (NC) 527-8 Phansi Museum (KZN) 307 (EC) 258 Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre Photographic Museum (WC) 184 (EC) 269 Port Natal Maritime Museum 000 Map pages Kleinplasie Farm Museum (WC) (KZN) 308 000 Photograph pages 194-5 Port St Johns Museum (EC) 287 Kliptown Open Air Museum (G) 419 Printing Museum (M) 449 INDEX 9 , 675 465

10 7 , , 11 23 , 537 4 334 4 Index (M-N)Index 351-2 537-40, (WC) 181 (KZN) 380 319 516-19, 591-2 496-7, 288-9 352 (EC) 263-4 336-40 (KNP) 472-3 (M) 446 333-4, Karoo (WC) Park National 226-7 (NC)Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park ReserveKoppies Dam Nature ReserveKowie Nature (EC) 260 ReserveKrantzkloof Nature (KZN) 464-81, Kruger National Park Malolotja Reserve Nature (SW) Mantenga Reserve Nature (SW) 585 Manyeleti Game Reserve (KNP) 479 (L) Mapungubwe National Park Marakele (L) 493 National Park Mkhambhati Reserve Nature (EC) Mkhomazi (KZN) Wilderness Area ReserveMlawula Nature (SW) 594 ReserveModjadji Nature (L) 504-5 Mokala (NC) National Park 531-2 National Park Mountain Zebra ReserveMpofu Nature (EC) 273 Musina Reserve Nature (L) 496 (NC)Namaqua National Park 546-7 ReserveNduli Nature (EC) 290 Ndumo Game Reserve (KZN) 343 ReserveNdzalama Wildlife (L) 505 Kamberg Reserve Nature (KZN) ReserveKogelberg Biosphere Lake Eland Game Reserve (KZN) 322 ReserveLotheni Nature (KZN) 352 Reserve Nature Luchaba (EC) 290 Madikwe Game Reserve (NW) Hluleka Reserve Nature (EC) 285 (KZN)iSimangaliso Wetland Park Ithala Game Reserve (KZN) 335 itineraries 23, Gustav Klingbiel Nature Reserve Nature Gustav Klingbiel ReserveHawane Nature (SW) 591 highlights 21 Highmoor Reserve Nature (KZN) 351 (SW) 594 Park Hlane Royal National Hluhluwe-iMfolozi (KZN) Park Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park Park Limpopo Transfrontier Great see 8 268 4 private reserves wildlife Reserve (M) 463 329 (WC) 225 (FS) 382-3 Park 215 267-8, (WC) 230 (CT) 159 (KZN) 349 367 282-3, tion Park (NC)tion Park 545-6 252-3 326 541-2 (M) 451-2, Ekangala Grassland Biosphere ReserveEntumeni Nature (KZN) Reserve Nature Fernkloof (WC) 184 Fort Reserve D’Acre (EC) 260 Franklin Game Reserve (KZN) 374 Gamkaskloof Reserve Nature Garden Castle (KZN) 351 Gariep Reserve Dam Nature (FS) 388 ReserveGoegap Nature (NC) 545 Golden Gate Highlands National Goukamma Reserve Nature (WC) River Reserve Fish Great (EC) 273 Bokong Nature ReserveBokong Nature (LES) 567 (WC)Bontebok National Park 191-2 ReserveBoschberg Nature (EC) 264 Bushman’s Nek (KZN) 351 (EC)Camdeboo National Park ReserveCape Columbine Nature ReserveCape of Good Hope Nature Reserve Nature Cathedral Peak ReserveChelmsford Nature (KZN) (KZN)Cobham State Forest 351 ReserveCradle Nature (G) 424 ReserveCwebe Nature (EC) 282-3 ReserveDe Hoop Nature (WC) 189 ReserveDlinza Forest (KZN) 329 ReserveDwesa Nature (EC) |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transforma- (EC) Park Addo Elephant National (WC) National Park 188 Agulhas ReserveAmatigulu Nature (KZN) (NC) National Park Augrabies Falls ReserveBen Lavin Nature (L) 495 Blyde River Reserve Nature Canyon also Namakwa (NC)Namakwa 542-8 (NC) National Park Namaqua 546-7 GardensNational Botanical (G) 438-9 reservesnational parks & 82-4, 68 67 71 67-8 Biodiversity (EC) 255 (CT) 108 (G) 431 (WC) 164 (SW) 585 (KZN) 329 (LES) 68, 560 59 Rhodes Museum Cottage (CT)155-6 (CT) Building Sacks Futeran 99 Sammy Mark’s Museum (G) 438-9 (G) 400 Centre Sci-Bono Discovery Settlers Museum (KZN) 352 Village (M) 453 Shangana Cultural Shell Museum (EC) 243 Simon’s Town Museum (CT) 157 Smut’s House Museum (G) 438 South African Institute for Aquatic South African Jewish Museum South African Police Museum South End Museum (EC) 247 Springbok Museum (NC) 543 Stellenbosch Village Museum Swaziland National Museum Museum (KZN) 364 Talana Togryers’ Museum (WC) 194 Toy & Miniature Museum (WC) 166 Transvaal Museum (G) 430 Museum (L) 503 Tzaneen Vukani Museum (KZN) 329 Whale House Museum (WC) 184 Winterton Museum (KZN) 349 Workers’ Museum (G) 400 Zululand Historical Museum books 64, 69 (SW) 66 Festival Bush Fire CDs & DVDs 66, 67, 69, 70, 71 gospel 69 history 64-7 64, 68, 69 internet resources jazz 68-9 kwaito kwela marabi neotraditional 70 soul 70-1 mbaqanga Morija Arts and Cultural Festival N Nababeep (NC) 545 Naboomspruit (L) 490 Mveso (EC) 289, 291 Musina (Messina; L) 495-6 muti music 64-71 676 Index (N-P)

national parks & reserves continued Voortrekker Monument & Nature Oude Molen Eco Village (CT) 127 Nwanedi Nature Reserve (L) 499 Reserve (G) 429-30 Oudtshoorn (WC) 202-6, 203 Nylsvley Nature Reserve (L) 490 Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve (WC) Ouplaas (WC) 189 Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve (KZN) 197 Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe Steam Train 320-2 Watersmeeting Nature Reserve (WC) 209 Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve (EC) 258 Outeniqua Pass (WC) 213 (WC) 177 Game Reserve (KZN) 362 Overberg, the (WC) 181-92, 182-3 Phongolo Reserve (KZN) 334-5 West Coast National Park (WC) Oxbow (LES) 564 Pilanesberg National Park (NW) 228-9 514-16, 515, 10 Wilderness National Park (WC) P Polokwane Game Reserve (L) 486 214-15 Paarl (WC) 176-8, 176, 180 Rhino & Lion Nature Reserve (G) 423 Willem Pretorius Game Reserve Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve Robberg & Marine Reserve (WC) (FS) 381 (WC) 177 224 Witsand Nature Reserve (NC) 536-7 painting 62 Rondevlei Nature Reserve (CT) 135 Wolhuterskop Game & Nature paragliding 128-9, 183, 462, 511, 602 Royal Natal National Park (KZN) Reserve (FS) 385 Parys (KZN) 378-80 347-8 Nature’s Valley (EC) 237-8 passports 624 Sehlabathebe National Park (LES) Ndebele people 442, 487, 489 Paternoster (WC) 229-30 565, 573-4 Ndumo Game Reserve (KZN) 343 Paton, Alan 59 Shongweni Resource Reserve Neighbourgoods Market (CT) 145, 5 Paul Kruger House Museum (G) 430 (KZN) 319 Nelson Mandela Gateway (CT) 98 penguins 80, 123, 157, 181, 241, 248 (EC) 285 Nelson Mandela Museum (EC) 290, 291 Phalaborwa (L) 505-7 Songimvelo Game Reserve (M) 462 Nelson Mandela Youth Heritage (KZN) 388 Sonheuwel Nature Reserve (M) 456 Centre (EC) 291 Phinda Private Game Reserve (KZN) Spioenkop Nature Reserve (KZN) Nelspruit (M) 455-9, 456 342-3 364-5 Newcastle (KZN) 367-8 Phongolo (Pongola; KZN) 334-5 Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve newspapers 58, 59, 598 photography 617-18 INDEX (FS) 382 Ngwempisi Gorge (SW) 596-7 Phuthaditjhaba (KZN) 383-4 Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve Ngwenya (SW) 591 Piet Retief (M) 462-3 (G) 425 Nhlangano (SW) 596 Pietermaritzburg (KZN) 356-61, 357 Swartberg Nature Reserve (WC) 224 Nieu Bethesda (EC) 268-70 Pietersburg (L) 485-9, 486 Table Mountain National Park (CT) Nkwalini Valley (KZN) 330-1 Piggs Peak (SW) 592-3 98, 129-30, 92-3, 4, 6 Noetzie (WC) 220 Pilanesberg National Park (NW) Tembe Elephant Park (KZN) 343 North-Eastern Highlands (EC) 292-6, 514-16, 515, 10 Ts’ehlanyane National Park (LES) 292 Pilgrim’s Rest (M) 449-50 562-3 Northeastern Highlands (LES) 563-7 planning 19-22, 611, see also Tsitsikamma National Park (EC) Northern Berg (KZN) 347-8 itineraries 238-40 Northern Cape 522-48, 523 health 645-6 Tsolwana Nature Reserve (EC) 273 travel to/from 525 holidays 614-15 uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park North-West Province 509-21, 510 plants 81, see also fynbos, wildflowers (KZN) 343-55 travel to/from 510-11 Plettenberg Bay (WC) 221-3, 222 Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve Nottingham Road (KZN) 361-2 politics 17-18, see also African (KZN) 361 Nqutu (KZN) 368 National Congress uMkhuze Game Reserve (KZN) 342 Nsangwini (SW) 592 Lesotho 553-4 Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve Nsoko (SW) 596 Swaziland 579 (KZN) 325 Nwanedi Nature Reserve (L) 499 Polokwane (Pietersburg; L) 485-9, 486 Umlalazi Nature Reserve (KZN) 327 Nylstroom (L) 490-1 Pondoland (EC) 288, 289 Umtamvuna Nature Reserve (KZN) Pongola (KZN) 334-5 323-4 O pony trekking 568, see also horse Vergelegen Nature Reserve (KZN) Olifants River Valley (WC) 231 riding 352 Ondini (KZN) 331-2 Basotho Pony Trekking Centre Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve (KZN) (LES) 566 000 Map pages 320-2 Bokong Nature Reserve (LES) 567 000 Photograph pages ostrich farms (WC) 204-5 Liphofung Cave Cultural Historical ostriches 123, 122 Site (LES) 563 INDEX 677

12 636 Index (P-R) Index (EC) 252 (WC) 208 (EC) 281 (EC) 263 (KZN) 343 (G) 423 (KZN) 319 (FS) 381 Addo Elephant National Park Park Addo Elephant National Botlierskop Private Game Reserve ReserveDwesa Nature (EC) 282 Fort Reserve D’Acre (EC) 260 River Reserve Fish Great (EC) 273 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi (KZN) Park 333 Inkwenkwezi Game Reserve Ithala Game Reserve (KZN) 335 Karoo (WC) Park National 226 468 Kruger National Park Madikwe Game Reserve (NW) 518 (L) 496 Mapungubwe National Park Marakele (L) 493 National Park Mkhaya Game Reserve (SW) 595 Mokala (NC) National Park 532 National Park Mountain Zebra Ndumo Game Reserve (KZN) 343 ReserveNdzalama Wildlife (L) 505 Phinda Private Game Reserve (NW) 514 National Park Pilanesberg Polokwane Game Reserve (L) 486 Rhino Reserve & Lion Nature (KNP) 479 Shamwari Game Reserve (EC) 253 Shongweni Resource Reserve ReserveSpioenkop Nature (KZN) 364 (KZN) Elephant Park 343 Tembe Waterberg, the (L) 491 (KZN) 362 Willem Pretorius Game Reserve (WC) 224 Cape Town 129-30 KwaZulu-Natal 348, 349 431, 524-5, 529 Robben Island (CT) 95-8 & Marine Robberg Nature Reserve robbery 610 Robertson (WC) 195-7 rock climbing 607 Rhodes (EC) 293-4 Rhodes, Cecil John 102, 127, 155-6, Rhodes Cottage Museum (CT) 155-6 Richards Bay (KZN) 328 Riemvasmaak (NC) 542 road distance chart restaurants 74 restaurants rhinoceros 80, 81, 117, white-water rafting see Cheetahland (WC) 204, 602 216 (EC) 281 (NC) 540 Reserve (EC) 295 (L) 495 480-1 Project (WC) 204 587-8 (KZN) 342-3 (KNP) 479 (KNP) 480 (KNP) 479-80 Cango Wildlife RanchCango Wildlife & Djuma Game Reserve 479 (KNP) Reserve Nature Featherbed (WC) Fort Game D’Acre Reserve (EC) 259 Inkwenkwezi Game Reserve Kalahari Reserve Trails Nature Klein Kunkura (L) 490-1 Lammergeier Private Nature Wilderness (Leshiba) Lesheba Londolozi Game Reserve (KNP) 479 Makuleke (KNP) Contract Park Manyeleti Game Reserve 479 (KNP) Mbuluzi Game Reserve (SW) 595 Meerkat Magic Conservation Mkhaya Game Reserve (SW) 595-6 SanctuaryMlilwane Wildlife (SW) Phinda Private Game Reserve Sabi Sand Game Reserve (KNP) 479 Shamwari Game Reserve (EC) 253-4 Singita Private Game Reserve Thornybush Private Game Reserve Private Game ReserveTimbavati 384, 453 pubs 74 radio 58, 598 rafting, Ramabanta (LES) 559 Ramsgate (KZN) 322 dance (SW) 585 reed 58-9 religion travel 86 responsible Q Qacha’s Nek (LES) 571-3 Qiloane Hill (LES) 559 Qomoqomong (LES) 571 quad-biking 217, 281, 294, 295, Queenstown (EC) 292-3 Qunu (EC) 289, 291 Quthing (LES) 570-1 R , 435 246 , 286 426-7 , 259-61 259 (KZN) 367 (WC) 208-9 560 (LES) 574 562-3 Boondocks (M) 462 Botlierskop Private Game Reserve 439 accommodation 432-4 attractions 429-32 drinking 436 emergency services 428 entertainment 436 food 434-6 internet access 428 medical services 428 money 428 travel 429 safe shopping 437 tourist information 428-9 tours 432 travel to/from 437-8 travel within 438 478 Balele Community Game Park Malealea(LES) 568 Mokhotlong (LES) 564 Morija MuseumArchives (LES) & Roma (LES) 559 Sani Top (LES) 565 Sehlabathebe National Park Semonkong (LES) 567 (LES) National Park Ts’ehlanyane accommodation 249-50 activities 248 attractions 247 entertainment 250-1 food 250 internet access 247 shopping 251 tourist information 247 travel to/from 251-2 Prince Albert (WC) 224-5 (WC)Prince Pass 220 Alfred’s private reserves wildlife 478-81, population 17, 18, 53-6 Port (EC) Alfred Port Edward (KZN) 323-4 Port Elizabeth (EC) 245-52, Port Nolloth (WC) 545 Port Shepstone (KZN) 320 Port St Johns (EC) 286-8, postal services 618 Potgietersrus (L) 489-90 Pretoria (G) 425-38, 678 Index (R-T)

rock climbing continued Shaka 35-6, 300, 324, 326, 329, East London (EC) 244, 277 Mpumalanga 445-6 330, 331 Eastern Cape 244 Limpopo 490, 503 Shakaland (KZN) 330 Eland’s Bay (WC) 230 Swaziland 580 Shamwari Game Reserve (EC) 253-4 Garden Route (WC) 207 Western Cape 199 sharks 183, 186, 209, 306, 324-5, Jeffrey’s Bay (EC) 241, 244 rock painting, see San rock art 602, 604 Kogel Bay (WC) 181 Roma (LES) 559-60 Sharpeville (G) 42, 424 KwaZulu-Natal 309 Rorke’s Drift (KZN) 368-9, 370 shebeens 74, 4 Margate (KZN) 323 Rorke’s Drift, Battle of (KZN) 368-9, 370 Shipwreck Coast (EC) 279 Muizenberg (CT) 154 Route 62 (WC) 192-206, 182-3 Shongololo Express 644 Plettenberg Bay (WC) 221 Royal Kraal (SW) 584, 585 shopping 618, see also craft shoping Port Alfred (EC) 259 Royal Natal National Park (KZN) 347-8 Sibasa (L) 498-9, 498 Port Elizabeth (EC) 248 rugby 58 Sibebe Rock (SW) 580 Shaka’s Rock (KZN) 326 Cape Town 150 Signal Hill (CT) 102 St Francis (EC) 241 Durban (KZN) 311 Simon’s Town (CT) 157-9 sustainable travel 85, 86, see also Johannesburg (G) 411 Simunye (KZN) 330, 593-4 GreenDex Rustenburg (NW) 511-12 Siteki (SW) 595 itineraries 28-9 Rustler’s Valley (KZN) 386 skiing 294, 564, 565 Swartberg Pass (WC) 205 skydiving 130, 209, 221, 311 Swartland (WC) 227-34 S Smut’s House Museum (G) 438 Swati language 655-6 Sabi Sand Game Reserve (KNP) 479 Sobhuza I 585 Swazi Cultural Village (SW) 585 Sabie (M) 447-9, 447 Sobhuza II 578, 579 Swazi people 31, 585, 588, 12, 575 safaris 84, see also national parks & soccer, see football, FIFA 2010 World Swaziland 576-97, 577 reserves, private wildlife reserves, Cup travel to/from 580 wildlife-watching Sodwana Bay (KZN) 339-40, 340 Swellendam (WC) 189-91, 190 itineraries 23, 23 solo travellers 618 safe travel 81, 610-11, see also Somerset East (EC) 264 T INDEX individual locations Songimvelo Game Reserve (M) 462 Table Mountain National Park (CT) 98, sailing 215, 229, 380 Sotho language 655 129-30, 92-3, 4, 6 Salpeterkrans (FS) 386 Southern Berg (KZN) 351-4 Talana Heritage Park & Battlefield San people 30-1, 33, 344-5 Soutpansberg region (L) 493-501 (KZN) 368 San rock art 31, 62 Soweto (G) 416-23, 417, 8 Tambo, Oliver 42, 45, 399 Eastern Cape 293 spas 129, see also thermal pools taxes 617 Free State 387 Spioenkop, Battle of (KZN) 366 taxi travel 642 KwaZulu-Natal 344, 347, 350 Spioenkop Nature Reserve (KZN) 364-5 telephone services 618-19 Lesotho 563, 568 sports 57-8, see also individual sports, Tembe Elephant Park (KZN) 343 Mpumalanga 471, 497 FIFA 2010 World Cup Teyateyaneng (LES) 560-1 Swaziland 592 Springbok (WC) 543-5, 544 Thaba Kwena Crocodile Farm (L) Western Cape 231, 232, 233, 234 St Francis Bay (EC) 241 491 sandboarding 130-2, 243, 536 St Helena Bay (WC) 230 Thaba ‘Nchu (FS) 36 Sani Pass (KZN) 354 St Lucia (KZN) 337-9 Thaba-Bosiu (LES) 558-9 Sani Top (LES) 565 Stanger (KZN) 326 Thabana-Ntlenyana (LES) 565 scams 611 Steam Train (EC) 248 Thaba-Tseka (LES) 565-6 sculpture 62 Stellenbosch (WC) 164-70, 165, Thabazimbi (L) 493 sea kayaking, see kayaking 172, 6 Thathe-Vondo Forest (L) 500 Sebokeng (L) 424-5 Sterkfontein Caves (G) 423-4 theatre 62-3 Sehlabathebe National Park (LES) Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve theft 610-11 565, 573-4 (FS) 382 thermal pools Semonkong (LES) 567 Stony Point (WC) 181 Limpopo 491 Senqu (Orange) River Wine Route Storms River (EC) 240-1 Northern Cape 542 (NC) 540-1 Sun City (NW) 513-14 Swaziland 585 surfing 607 Western Cape 201 000 Map pages Cape Town 130-2 Thohoyandou (L) 498-9, 498 000 Photograph pages Coffee Bay (EC) 284 Thokozisa (KZN) 349 Durban (KZN) 309, 311 Thornhill (EC) 248 INDEX 10 679 ,

497 Boers museums passports see also 121 see also internet resources Index (T-W)Index see also hiking see see (G) 438 Military History (G) 401 356, 369, 372 Mafikeng Museum (NW) 521 Siege Museum (KZN) 365 South African National Museum of Anglo-Boer War Museum (KZN) 374 Blood River Museum (KZN) 370 Colenso museums (KZN) 363 Elim Museum (L) 500 Fort Amiel (KZN) 367 Fort Klapperkop Military Museum Lesotho 551 Lesotho Limpopo 484, 485, 489, 490 Mpumalanga 442 (VOC)208 33, 102, 428, 431 State 380, 381, 385 Free Gauteng 425, 429-30 KwaZulu-Natal 300-2, 332, 354, Cape Town 127 Eastern Cape 248, 253, 280, 285 480 Kruger National Park Limpopo 492 Reserve (G) 429-30 (KZN) 335-6 W Waenhuiskrans (WC) 188-9 walking, war musems, Warmbaths (L) 491 Waterberg, the (L) 491-3 Waterval Boven (M) 445-6 websites, Vredefort Dome (KZN) 378-80 121, vultures Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie Oost-Indische Compagnie Vereenigde Hendrik 42, 43, 102, Verwoerd, Victoria Waterfront & Alfred (CT) 107 VictoriaBay (WC) 213 VictoriaWest (NC) 533 Vioolsdrift (NC) 524 visas 621-2, VOC 33, 102, 208 volunteering 622 Voortrekker Monument & Nature Voortrekkers 36, Valley of 1000 Hills (KZN)Valley 318-19 (EC) of Desolation Valley 268 Olifants (L) 501-8 of the Valley Riebeeck, Jan 33, 103, 126 Van vegetarian 74 travellers people 442, 487, 497-501 Venda 497-501, 484, region Venda 238-40 Steam Train ark (EC) 535 644 503 248 Boers 644 hiking 644 Pretoria see see (reed) dance (SW) 585 (reed) see (WC) 209 343-55 (KZN) 325 Rhodes (EC) 294 (G) 420 Soweto Apple Express Blue Train Gautrain 415 Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe Rovos Rail Steam Train (EC) 248 Shongololo Express to/from Botswana 631 to/from Mozambique 632 to/from Namibia 631, 632 to/from South Africa 631-2 629, to/from Swaziland 629 Umgeni Steam Railway 319 Union Ltd Steam Rail Tours 644 within South Africa 643-4 46, 49, 419 103, 417, 418, 419 V (L) 492-3 Vaalwater vacations 20, 614-15 U uKhahlamba-Drakensberg (KZN) Park Ulundi (KZN) 331-2 Umgeni Steam Railway (KZN) 319 ReserveUmhlanga Lagoon Nature umhlanga Umhlanga Rocks (KZN) 324-5 uMkhuze Game Reserve (KZN) 342 Underberg (KZN) 352-4 Unesco World Heritage Sites 79 Upington (NC) 534-6, Upper Karoo (NC) 525-33 Utrecht (KZN) 367 trekking, train travel (EC) 289, 291 Trekboers, Truth & Reconciliation Commission 44, (LES) 562-3 National Park Ts’ehlanyane Tshwane, Tsitsikamma National P Tsitsikamma (KZN) 347 Falls Tugela (WC) 192-4 Tulbagh turtles 336, 341 Desmond 44, 46, 47, 49, 50, 51, Tutu, TV 58, 598 Twee Rivieren (NC) 538, 539 537, (L) 502-4, Tzaneen boat cruises, see also 266, 269-70, 277, 280-1, 282, 283, 294, 295 333, 337, 338, 342, 351, 358-9, 361, 368 498, 500 538-9, 541 (KNP) 480 471 Reserve (KNP) 479-80 Acornhoek (L) 508 Bloemfontein (FS) 374 Cape Town 135-6 Durban (KZN) 306 East London (EC) 277 Graaff-Reinet (EC) 266 Grahamstown (EC) 256 Harrismith (FS) 381 Hermanus (WC) 183 Johannesburg (G) 402 Kimberley (NC) 528 Knysna (WC) 216 Mossel Bay (WC) 209 Newcastle (KZN) 367 Phalaborwa (L) 506 Port Elizabeth (EC) 248 Pretoria (G) 432 Free State Free Gauteng 402, 420, 432 470-1 Kruger National Park KwaZulu-Natal 306, 319, 322, 330, 557 Lesotho Limpopo 487, 492, 493, 497, Mpumlanga 457, 461 Northern Cape 529-31, 534, North-West 511 Cape Soweto (G) 420 Swaziland 582, 589 Western Cape 187, 234 wineries 135, 167-8, 177 safaris, township tours Battlefields (KZN) 368 Cape Town 99, 134-6 cycling 167-8 Eastern Cape 237, 243, 248-9, 256, Thulamela (KNP) 32, 465, Thulamela (KNP) Private Game Timbavati time 620 tipping 617 toilets 620 Tolkien, 376 JRR 271-2, Tongaat (KZN) 325 tourist information 620 tours, 633, 642 Thornybush PrivateThornybush Game Reserve township tours INDEX whale-watching 604,607, whale-watching 339 Western Shores (KZN) wildflowers 81,543 214-15 Wilderness NationalPark (WC) 213-14 Wilderness (WC) 279-92, Wild Coast(EC) (M)454-5 White River 603 rafting white-water Western Cape161-234, 228-9 West CoastNationalPark (WC) 229 West CoastFossilPark (WC) 227-34 West Coast(WC) 178-9 Wellington (WC) Welkom (FS)380 weights 598 680 windsurfing 132, 215,229,243, windsurfing 380-1 (KZN) 607 wildlife-watching wildlife 79-81, 000 000 Western Cape181,182,183,184, KwaZulu-Natal 322,338 Eastern Cape241,243,248,288 Cape Town134,156,157 travel to/from163 Umtamvuna Nature Reserve Umtamvuna Nature Reserve 543 (NC) Springbok 547 Namaqua NationalPark (NC) 545 Nababeep (NC) (SW)591 Nature Reserve Malolotja 545 (NC) Goegap Nature Reserve 346 (KZN) Range Drakensberg 232 Citrusdal (WC) (KZN) Chelmsford Nature Reserve Cederberg WildernessArea (WC) 547 Calvinia (NC) Transforma- |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Western Cape195 Swaziland 582,595 Cape541 Northern Mpumalanga 448,452,453,508 KwaZulu-Natal 311,358 Free State379,384 Eastern Cape293 248, 380 safe travel81

Map pages Map Photograph pages 231, 185, 187,189,209,215,221, (KZN) 323 (KZN) 367 231 546 tion Park (NC) Index (W-Z) 6 see also animals, plants 162 280 6 , 7 wineries, wineries, 163-81 Winelands (WC) wine 74, Villiera (WC) 171 Villiera (WC) 171 Van RynBrandyCellar(WC) Van 166 Loveren (WC) Tulbagh 192-3 Valley (WC) 167 Tukulu (WC) tours 135,167-8,177 167 Thandi (WC) Stellenbosch (WC) 171, Stellenbosch (WC) 128 Steenberg Vineyards(CT) 196 (WC) Springfield 171 Spier (WC) 179 Solms-Delta (WC) Wine (Orange)River Senqu 179 (WC) Seidelberg WineValley (WC) Robertson 193 Cellar(WC) Private Rijk’s 177,179-81 Paarl (WC) 231 ValleyOlifants River (WC) 166-7 Nelson’s Creek (WC) 171 Neethlingshof (WC) 181 Nederburg Wines(WC) 173 Mont Rochelle(WC) 173 Mon Plaisir(WC) 197 McGregor Wines(WC) 179 Landskroon (WC) L’Avenir 171 (WC) 195 Kleinplasie Winery(WC) 127 Klein Constantia(CT) 127 Groot Constantia(CT) 173 Grande Provence(WC) 196 Beck(WC) Graham 179 Glen Carlou(WC) 173 Franschhoek (WC) 179 Fairview (WC) Fair Valley Association Workers 192 Drostdy Wines(WC) 196 De Wetshof(WC) 227 Darling (WC) 128 Constantia Uitsig(CT) 173 Chamonix (WC) 173 Estate(WC) Cabrière 127 Buitenverwachting (CT) 202 Boplaas (WC) books 74 181 Backsberg (WC) Route (NC) 540-1 Route (NC) 196 167 (WC) see also see also wineries wine 6 Wuppertal (WC) 234 (WC) Wuppertal 126 World ofBirds(CT) work 623 194-5 Worcester (WC) women travellers622-3 women’s issues56-7 536-7 (NC) Witsand Nature Reserve 349 (KZN) Winterton zoos &sanctuaries 326 Zinkwazi (KZN) Zille, Helen90-1 117, 387 Zastron (KZN) Z Xhosa people31,54,238 Xhosa language656-7 X Zuma, Jacob18,50-1 327-36, Zululand (KZN) Zulu people31-51,54,327,330,332 Zulu language657 Western Cape (WC) 166-7 Western Cape(WC) 181 Vrede enLust (WC) Raptor Rehabilitation Centre Rehabilitation Raptor NationalZoological Pretoria 319 ParkPheZulu Safari (KZN) 222 (WC) Monkeyland 221 Knysna ElephantPark (WC) (G)401 Crane&Wetland Hlatikulu Breeding Centre (L)489 Game forEver(L)504 Elephants forAfrica 222 (WC) Elephant Sanctuary (M)453 Elephant Sanctuary 277 East LondonZoo(EC) Dullstroom BirdofPrey & Centre Research De WildtCheetah Park Reptile (M)456 Croc River Chimpanzee Eden(M)457 262-3 Trust(EC) Cat Conservation Bloemfontein Zoo(FS)374 222 Birds ofEden(WC) 157 (CT) Baboon Matters (L)503 Agatha CrocodileRanch (NC) 534 (NC) (G)431 Gardens 352 (KZN) Sanctuary Centre (M) 444 Rehabilitation (G) 439-40 10 , 116 328 GREENDEX 681 , the first such scheme scheme , the first such Carnival 136 Carnival 159 Flats 159 Flats Cape Centre, 287 Johns 283 Bay 253 phant National Park Ele Monkeybiz 151 Monkeybiz 151 Montebello 134 MTN Sciencentre 150 Old Biscuit Mill 127 Oude Molen Eco Village 156 Save Our Seas Shark Centre 85 Shaster Foundation Sivuyile Tourism Cape Centre, 151 Streetwires 98 Mountain National Park Table Environmental Resource Tsoga 75 Andulela 146 Millstone 145 Neighbourgoods Market 143 Portobello Amapondo Backpackers, Port St Bulungula Backpackers, Coffee Chrislin African Lodge, Addo Indlovu Project 159 Indlovu Project Kaapse Klopse/Cape Town Minstrel food EASTERN CAPE accommodation (www.fairtourismsa.org.za)

walking trails 131 walking trails 607 136 Township Tours 157 159 Flats Cape Centre, 126 159 Group Awareness Coffee Beans Routes 135 Beans Routes Coffee 134 Day Trippers 135 Grassroute Tours Mountain Hoerikwaggo & Table 135 Tours Imvubu Nature Mountain Club of South Africa 135 Sam’s Cultural Tours 136 Siviwe Tours 136 Township Tours SA Yiphile iKhayelitsha Ultimate 150 Africa Centre 157 Baboon Matters 157 Blossom Boulders Beach penguin colony 127 Buitenverwachting 99 District Six Museum Guga S’Thebe Arts & Cultural 157 Kalk Bay Modern 151 Khayelitsha Craft Market 137 Khayelitsha Festival Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens Kommetjie Environmental attractions Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa Trade in Tourism Fair

Bikes 135 Bikes

Sustainable tourism is an ongoing initiative, so please let us know what you think of our cover- so please let us know what you ongoing initiative, Sustainable tourism is an ABBREVIATIONS State FS Free G Gauteng KNP National Park Kruger L Limpopo LES Lesotho M Mpumalanga Cape NC Northern Province NW North-West SW Swaziland Cape Town Partnership 134 Cape Town Partnership Backpack 139 Backpack 138 Hotel Daddy Long Legs 141 Lodge Lighthouse Farm 160 Makazi’s Guesthouse, Cape Flats 137 Scalabrini Guest House 75 Andulela 135 Apex Shark Expeditions 135 Birdwatch Cape 135 Cape Capers Tours 135 Tours Cape Fisher 82 Cape Nature Tours/Ben’s Cape Peninsular

GOING GREEN GOING GREEN is a trailblaz- South Africa ethically sound tourism, to environmentally friendly, When it comes ing country. age via www.lonelyplanet.com/contact; for more information visit www.lonelyplanet.com/about age via www.lonelyplanet.com/contact; for more /responsible-travel. established worldwide, has members located from Cape Town to just south of the Zimbabwean Zimbabwean Town to just south of the from Cape members located established worldwide, has and activities, a range of ecotourist accommodation including index below features The border. winery an award-winning tour operators, and even lodges and hostels, gardens and reserves, the traditional definition of beyond the list extends footprint. However, with a carbon-negative included all sorts we have to the listings with an environmental slant, In addition of ‘green’. the local community, educating local developing such as on areas sustainable options that focus of our coverage bolstered We have business to local craftspeople and guides. and bringing children, concerns that such options sometimes readers’ to in response community-run accommodation, activities such as cycling, hiking, For ‘green’ all national parks and lost out to backpacker hostels. index. see the regular train travel, activities & tours CAPE TOWN accommodation GreenDex GreenDex GreenDex GREENDEX accommodation 682 activities &tours activities accommodation CAPE FREE STATE &NORTHERN attractions activities &tours activities Tsitsa Falls & Backpackers Mdumbi Backpackers 285 Lodge Mbotyi River 288 Mpande Kraal Backpackers, 286 Storms DijembeBackpackers, Lammergeier Private Nature Lammergeier Private Reserve, Inkwenkwezi Game Port Fish HorseSafaris, River Elizabeth Calabash Tours,Port Amadiba Adventures, WildCoast Rooiduin Experience, Kgalagadi Rooiduin Experience, (NC) Riemvasmaak 542 Trails Nature Reserve, Kalahari Heerengracht GuestHouse, GuestHouse,Kimberley Ekhaya Australian ArmsGuestHouse, !Xaus Lodge,Kgalagadi Adventures Storms River 240 Reserve Game Shamwari 253 Penguin Centre, Rehabilitation Grahamstown Meadery, Makana Hamburg Project, Arts Keiskamma Hogsback ecoshrine 272 Trust,Cradock Cat Conservation Harrismith Marketing Bureau Marketing Harrismith

Adventures, Maclear Adventures, Maclear 293 River 240 Reserve, LadyGrey Reserve, 295 Chintsa 281 Alfred 259 248 281 Transfrontier Park (NC) Transfrontier Park (NC) 540 (NC) 540 Kgalagadi TransfrontierPark (NC) Kimberley 530 (NC) 530 (NC) Kimberley 530 Transfrontier Park (NC) 539 Cape StFrancis 241 255 261 262 (FS) 381 GreenDex continued accommodation LIMPOPO MPUMALANGA & KRUGER NATIONAL PARK, food activities &tours activities accommodation PROVINCE GAUTENG &NORTH-WEST attractions Otters Den,Hoedspruit (L) Otters 508 Ngala (KNP) 480 (KNP) Motswari 480 Mopane BushLodge, SoutpansbergMountains Medike, CommunityCentre & Makuleke (L) aThavha,Makhado Madi 494 Lesheba Wilderness,Soutpansberg Lajuma MountainRetreat, (KNP) Reserve Djuma Game 479 IvoryRoute,Polokwane African Taste (G) Pretoria Restaurant, 435 Bryanston OrganicMarket, (G) Boeremark, Pretoria 437 Wilderness Safaris, Johannesburg Wilderness Safaris, Taste Soweto(G) ofAfrica, 420 Sun City(NW) 513 Soweto BicycleTours, National(SAN)ParksSouth African Pilansberg Safaris, Mankwe Imbizo Tours,Johannesburg Peech Hotel,Johannesburg(G) Lodge, Safari Buffalo Ridge 542 (NC) Riemvasmaak (L) 497 NationalParkMapungubwe (L) 495 Homestay (KNP) 480 Mountains (L) 495 (L) 495 Soutpansberg Mountains (L) 485 Johannesburg (G) 412 (G) 643 (G) 420 (G) 82 National Park (NW) 515 (G) 402 404 518 (NW) Reserve Game Madikwe attractions &tours activities food accommodation KWAZULU-NATAL activities &tours activities Umlani Bushcamp(KNP) 480 Singita (KNP) 479 Lodge,Elim Lakeside Shiluvari (M) Lodge,Malelane Serenity 459 Pafuri Camp(KNP) 480 Outpost (KNP) 481 Pekoe ViewTea Garden, Park Contract (KNP) Makuleke 480 Haenertsburg Gardens, Cheerio Tour deKruger(KNP) 470 Thavhani (L) 643 Komatiland Forests Eco-Tourism HorsebackAdventures Horizon Hardy Ventures (M) 603 Greater LimpopoBirdingRoutes Eden Routes,Polokwane(L) 643 EcoTraining (KNP) 610 Children intheWilderness(KNP) 470 Courtyard Cafe, White River Cafe, WhiteRiver Courtyard Sycamore Avenue Tree Houses, Mbonise, Hluhluwe 333 Themba’s Birding &EcoTours, Tekweni Eco-Tours, Durban 319 Safaris, St Lucia Kayak Tours,iSimangaliso Shakabarker Jabulani, SodwanaBay 338 Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal 298 iSimangaliso Euro ZuluSafaris, Emnambithi CulturalCentre, Bhangazi HorseSafaris, (L) 501 Magoebaskloof PassMagoebaskloof (L) 502 (L) 501 (M) 82 (L) 606 (L) 603 (M) 455 Hidcote Hidcote 362 St Lucia 338 iSimangaliso WetlandPark 338 Wetland Park 338 Wetland Park 338 Ladysmith 365 iSimangaliso WetlandPark 338 GREENDEX 683

GreenDex Knysna 219 Knysna 216 191 202 189 204 Project, Oudsthoorn 196 214 Wilderness 169 214 Wilderness Eco Afrika Tours, Knysna 606 Fynbos Horse Trails 228 !Khwa ttu Bontebok National Park Boplaas winery, Calitzdorp ReserveDe Hoop Nature 170 Lynedoch EcoVillage Meerkat Magic Conservation Soekershof Walkabout, Robertson Organic Village, Timberlake Overture Restaurant, Stellenbosch Organic Village, Timberlake 214 Zucchini, Wilderness Knysna Castles, Knysna 220 Knysna Knysna Castles, 234 Oudrift, Clanwilliam Eco-Reserve,Phantom Forest activities & tours attractions food 594 566 (LES) 595 587 (SW) 571 560 (LES) 592 Reserve, (SW) Peak Piggs 592 593 (SW) Nature Reserve 230 ReserveNature Cederberg Wilderness Area 232 187 Gansbaai Hlane Royal National Park (SW) Park Hlane Royal National Katse Botanical Garden, Katse 569 Malealea Museum (LES) Mkhaya Game Reserve (SW) SanctuaryMlilwane Wildlife Moorosi Chalets, Quthing (LES) Morija Museum & Archives, Morija 596 Ngwempisi Gorge (SW) Nsangwini Rock Art Shelter (SW) Phophonyane Lodge & Nature Shewula Mountain Camp, Simunye Beach Camp, Cape Columbine 227 Darling Trust, Darling Gecko Wilderness Lodge, Creek Grootbos Private Reserve, Nature WESTERN CAPE accommodation (SW) 589 (SW) Cultural Tours, Manzini (SW) 589 Reserve, (SW) Peak Piggs 592 Valley of 1000 Hills 319 of 1000 Hills Valley iSimangaliso Wetland Park 338 Park iSimangaliso Wetland 329 Eshowe 331 Museum, Ulundi 327 Mtunzini Gone Rural, Malkerns Valley Malealea Lodge (LES) 569 Malealea Lodge (LES) 606 Nyanza Horse Trails (SW) Kaphunga Homestead Swaziland Phophonyane Lodge & Nature Phophonyane Lodge & Nature Shongweni Farmer’s Market, Shongweni Farmer’s Zululand Birding Route, Zululand Birding AerialDlinza Forest Boardwalk, 336 Park iSimangaliso Wetland KwaZulu Cultural-Historical Reserve,Umlalazi Nature 319 Hills of 1000 Woza Moya, Valley attractions activities & tours LESOTHO & SWAZILAND LESOTHO accommodation food attractions 684 LONELY PLANET OFFICES MAP LEGEND ROUTES Tollway Mall/Steps Australia Freeway Tunnel Head Office Primary Pedestrian Overpass Secondary Walking Tour Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Tertiary %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Lane Walking Tour Detour Under Construction Walking Trail [email protected] Unsealed Road Walking Path One-Way Street Track USA TRANSPORT 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 Ferry Tram %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 Bus Route Cable Car, Funicular fax 510 893 8572 Rail Rail (Underground) Rail (Fast Track) [email protected] HYDROGRAPHY UK River, Creek Canal 2nd fl, 186 City Rd, Intermittent River Water Swamp Lake (Dry) London EC1V 2NT Mangrove Lake (Salt) %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 Reef Mudflats [email protected] BOUNDARIES International Regional, Suburb State, Provincial Ancient Wall Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Disputed Marine Park Cliff ABN 36 005 607 983 AREA FEATURES © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 2009 Airport Land Area of Interest Mall © photographers as indicated 2009 Beach, Desert Market Building Park Cover photograph: on the Bushveld Plain, Richard du Toit, Getty Campus Rocks Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing Cemetery, Christian Sports Cemetery, Other Urban from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com. POPULATION All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE) in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, Large City Medium City Small City Town, Village electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts SYMBOLS for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold Sights/Activities Entertainment Information or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Beach Entertainment Bank, ATM Castle, Fortress Embassy/Consulate Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd, Singapore. Christian Shopping Hospital, Medical Hindu Shopping Information Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Internet Facilities Islamic Sleeping Police Station Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and Monument Sleeping Post Office, GPO in other countries. Museum, Gallery Telephone Point of Interest Camping Toilets Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by Pool Geographic Transport Ruin Hazard commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Surfing, Surf Beach Airport, Airfield Lighthouse Please let us know of any misuses: www.lonelyplanet.com/ip. Lookout Trail Head Border Crossing Winery, Vineyard Mountain, Volcano Bus Station National Park Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Pass, Canyon General Transport Eating Picnic Area Eating Parking Area River Flow Drinking Shelter, Hut Petrol Station Drinking Spot Height Cafe Taxi Rank Waterfall

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