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Home , Durban, Gito Baloi, Hawaan Forest, Joseph Shabalala, Moses Mabhida, Timeline of Durban

A Return to Paradise and its People welcome t to durban you are here

CONTENTS

009 Foreword 010 History 016 Plans 026 Faith 030 Commerce 036 Eating 042 Building 048 Design 054 Writing 058 Art 064 Music 072 Dance 076 Theatre 080 Film Published by eThekwini 084 Museums Commissioned by Ntsiki Magwaza 088 Getting Out eThekwini Communications Unit Words and layout Peter Machen 092 Sport Photography See photo credits 096 Mysteries Printed by Art Printers 100 Where to Stay Printed on Environmentally friendly Sappi Avalon Triple Green Supreme Silk paper 102 Governance ISBN 978-0-620-38971-6 104 Etcetera

FOREWORD

The face of Durban has changed citizens in to the mainstream of economic activity in eThekwini. dramatically over the past few years These plans are part of the City’s 2010 and Beyond Strategy. due to the massive investments in When the Municipality was planning for the 2010 World Cup, it did infrastructure upgrade that were kick- not just focus on the tournament but tried to ensure that infrastructural started ahead of the 2010 Fifa World improvements would leave a lasting legacy and improve the quality Cup. Many of the plans that were of life for its residents. Beyond the World Cup, these facilities, detailed in the previous edition of Durban together with the Inkosi International Convention Centre – A Paradise and its People have now been completed and have and Marine World, have helped Durban to receive global helped to transform Durban into a world class city that is praised by recognition as ’s sporting and events capital. its citizens and visitors alike. We are a diverse African city that is focused on citywide The attractive stadium has become an iconic investments, growing our economy and creating a better quality of landmark for the city, while the renovation of the beachfront has life. In Durban we play hard and we work hard. It’s not a coincidence greatly expanded the promenade, which now stretches from Ushaka that we attract so many local and international tourists on a daily Marine World to Blue Lagoon, providing a rich experience for local basis. We are a growing urban setting, rich in diversity, cultural and international tourists. Our transport system is undergoing amenities and outdoor recreational opportunities. The threads that continuous improvements and access into and out of the city has are woven into this City are integral to the rich history of , improved with the construction of fly-over bridges and dedicated and contribute to the cultural diversity and harmony that defines life lanes for public transport vehicles. We have the brand new King in eThekwini. International , located in one of the most beautiful Welcome to Durban, the Warmest Place To Be! I hope you enjoy landscapes of any airport in the world, and part of the expansive Durban - A Return to Paradise and its People Dube Tradeport project which encourages export trade. Areas outside of central Durban are also receiving attention, with construction taking place at an accelerated pace from Hammersdale to Inanda, Umhlanga and . Development of formerly black Councillor James Nxumalo townships is also progressing in order to bring formerly disadvantaged Mayor of eThekwini Municipality

09 HISTORY

THERE’S SOMETHING FOOLISH ABOUT REDUCING thousands of years of history to just a few pages. And this is particularly the case in the multicultural society of Durban, where many important contributing strands are bound to fall by the wayside. But a little historical context will nonetheless prove useful to visitors to Durban who would like to understand, in some way, how the city has evolved into its current form. The timeline of human habitation in Durban goes back to long before the advent of recorded history in the region. COLONIAL IMPRINT Durban still bears the imprint of George While some of the earliest remnants of humanity are found Cato’s original three-street town plan, to which only two main parallel streets have been added, before the city’s grid structure in the nearby , it is now established that prior surrenders to the more convoluted layout of its surburbs. Like to the arrival of the Nguni people and subsequent European many African , Durban still wears the vestiges of its colonial colonialists, the area was populated by the original people origins, with beautiful low rise neo-classical buildings dominating of – now collectively called the Khoi/San. its centre, attended by a throng of colonial-era statues. Similarly, Then, on Christmas day in 1497, Portuguese explorer theAlbum: city itself Introducingis still named afterShiyani its founder, Ncgobo Benjamin D’Urban, passed the mouth of Durban Bay and although it is also referred to by its Zulu name, eThekwini. promptly named it Rio de (Christmas River), presuming that several rivers flowed into the bay. Back then, before the intrusive advent of industrialisation, the bay was separated from the sea by a sandbar. In the vast waters of the bay and the mangrove swamps on its edges, crocodiles, hippopotamuses and flamingoes spent their days. Beyond the bay lay a ridge of hills which was home to elephants, hyenas and lions until about a century ago, and which now houses Durban’s immediate suburbs. Over the subsequent years, Rio de Natal came to be a popular stop-off point for explorers and traders, mainly because the bay offered one of the few protected anchorages on the southern coast of Africa.

10 In 1823, the first European settlement arrived on the ship, The Salisbury, under the command of Lieutenant James King, with the aim of trading up and down the South African coast. While inclement weather forced the vessel to anchor in the sheltered area off the coast of Durban, her accompanying ship, the Julia, sailed over the sandbar and surveyed the bay. King immediately recognised the importance of the bay and returned to to try and garner support for an English settlement. He was unsuccessful, and soon sailed back to Natal, as it had come to be called by the Europeans. King then befriended King Shaka Zulu who granted him land around the bay, and sent him to England with two of THE CITY HALL Built in 1910 in the neo-baroque style, the City his chiefs on a diplomatic mission. But the party got no Hall was inspired by the City Hall in Northern Ireland. This further than and King returned to Port Natal handsome sandstone building is adorned with allegorical sculptures in the neo-classical style representing art, music, literature, commerce once more, moving to the Bluff across the bay, where he and industry. The hall, with its sumptuous interior and beautiful died of dysentery in 1828. acoustics, is used as a venue for cultural and social events and This rough, uncertain life frequently had lethal results regularly hosts concerts by the KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra. and at one point the number of settlers at the bay was no The building houses the Mayor’s Parlour as well as the City Library, more than six. At a meeting in 1835, attended by the full the Natural Science Museum and the Durban Art Gallery. complement of settlers at the time – 15 in all – a town was proclaimed, and named in honour of the Governor of the Cape, Sir Benjamin D’Urban. Despite initially grandiose plans, little development took place in this early settlement. Dwellings of rudimentary mud and wattle nestled in the coastal bush, and a full 12 years after the proclamation, there were still no streets. Although the settlers maintained cordial relations with the powerful founder of the Zulu nation to their north, matters changed for the worse when Shaka’s successor took over. Under Shaka’s rule, the Zulus considered the area to be their territory but had tolerated the white settlers whose trading habits were useful to them. Whereas

11 Shaka had instructed his citizens to live in peace with the white settlers, Dingane showed open animosity and aggression. In 1838 the Voortrekkers arrived from the , already having laid claim to Natal, despite the fact that several columns of their wagons had been massacred by the Zulus along the way. Later that year at the battle of Ndondakusuka, a number of British traders lost their lives, along with hundreds of Zulus, and were forced to flee. In 1842 the British sent forces to maintain order in the area and were promptly besieged by the Voortrekkers. It fell to and his Zulu servant Ndongeni to ride to the British Garrison in Grahamstown to get help. TOWN PLANNING has left its footprint all over King earned a legendary place in local history by riding 960 the eThekwini Metro Area as a result of the kilometres in 10 days, past the Voortrekkers and through wild which divided South African cities along racial lines. But uncharted territory, crossing more than 120 rivers. A month although apartheid formalised segregation, city structures later the besieged British were relieved. (King, seemingly had already been shaped by the country’s colonial past. In 1923 the Urban Areas Act was passed, forcing ‘blacks’ into always on the side of the underdog, also walked from Durban what were known as ‘locations’. Segregated cities became to northern Natal to warn the Voortrekkers of the massacre of apartheidAlbum: Introducingcities after the Shiyani National Ncgobo Party came into power in by the Zulu king Dingane.) 1948 and all remaining ‘non-whites’ in Durban were forced In 1844, the British annexed the southern portion of Natal to move to the outlying areas of the city. to their already existing . This annexe was significantly boosted in the early 1850s when several thousand settlers arrived, courtesy of an Irishman named Joseph Byrne, city centre roads in South Africa are so wide). In 1860, a railway who had once visited Durban, and who hoped to make money linked the harbour with the small town and within 30 years it by shipping in settlers to this difficult paradise. reached all the way to , while the town of Durban In 1860, finding the Zulus to be uncooperative workers, began to expand beyond the swampland to the cooler hills of the British imported the first of several thousand indentured the Berea. labourers from British to work in the sugar cane fields. The discovery of gold in the Transvaal was a major boost Along with them came ‘passenger’ Indians who were not to the port, while the presence of coal in Dundee resulted in indentured, and who were free to engage in business. many ships using the port for bunkering. The progress of the But Durban was still a rough looking outpost and it took the port finally led to the troublesome sandbar at the harbour efforts of a young immigrant named George Cato to lay out entrance being removed. the town properly with three main streets, each 100 feet across As a result of the increased use of the harbour, many – wide enough to turn a wagon and 16 oxen (the reason why marine-related industries such as ship building, stevedoring

12 and chandling were established in Durban, along with a dry dock. By 1900, the town had a sewerage system, hardened roads and water reticulation. The expansion of the railways also had the effect of attracting people from the Transvaal, who wished to vacation in the seaside town. This established Durban as a major tourist destination, a position it retains more than a century later. During the frequent conflicts in the colony, Durban was also the primary disembarkation point for British troops. In 1932 a number of satellite suburbs were incorporated into the town and in 1935 Durban was granted city status. In the years after World War II, the history of Durban was defined largely by the implementation of apartheid, and the struggle for equal humanity that ensued. Today, this legacy is most visibly evident in the existence of extensive shack settlements throughout the region. As the Group Areas Act got under way, the City Council FACTS ABOUT DURBAN is a fascinating collection of facts and decided to build more formal communities, and large anecdotes about Durban and its history. A rich source of townships were constructed to house African workers information on the city, FAD includes everything from a timeline both north and south of Durban. of the city’s history to wrecks which have occurred off the coast In 1994 South Africa had its first democratic election, and the exact details of what the lights on the Millenium Tower mean. The archival images in the previous few pages were used which changed forever the tone and flavour of Durban. with the kind permission of the author Allan Jackson, who also In 1996 the Municipal boundaries were expanded to curates the constantly updated FAD website (www.fad.co.za) become the Durban Metropolitan Region, or Durban and writes a weekly internet column for the Sunday Tribune. Metro, by including large areas to the north, south and west of the city. Four years later, a further expansion resulted in the The Inanda City Guide The Inanda area, just outside of Durban, is of great importance to the . Many of the events that inclusive Durban Unicity. Today Durban is the third largest took place here have had global significance. It was in Inanda that the city in South Africa and of vital economic importance to young birthed his notion of satyagraha, or peaceful the country. The city continues its role as South Africa’s resistance, and where the seeds of the African National Conference were most popular tourist destination, while its complex history planted. The eThekwini Municipality has produced a series of City Guide area maps, including one which focuses on Inanda, detailing sites of has ensured a rich and diverse multicultural future. historic importance and sacred significance. Pick up a copy of the Woza Enanda City Guide at Tourist Junction in the centre of Durban.

13 MAHATMA GANDHI Mahatma Gandhi arrived in Durban in 1893 as a legal advisor to an Indian firm. Initially unaware of the racial inequalities in the colony, he threw himself into the struggle for elementary rights for Indians. He helped to establish the Natal Indian Congress in 1894 and the newspaper The in 1903 and, a year later, established a settlement in Phoenix. It was here that his notion of satyagraha or non-violent resistance would later emerge, before resonating around the globe. JOHN ROSS In 1827 the 15 year old John Ross walked 900 kms from Durban to Delagoa Bay (now ) and back through untamed wilderness to fetch medical supplies for the settlers. Along the way he visited King Shaka who provided him with an armed escort for the journey. Today, a statue of Ross stands in front of John Ross House on the as a tribute to his bravery and determination.

JOHN DUBE Poet BW Vilakazi wrote in 1946 that John Dube was “a great, if not the greatest, black man of the missionary epoch in South Africa.” With the most meagre of economic means, Dube emerged from history as a renaissance man in the true sense of the word. He was founding president of the African National Congress, started the local newspaper Ilanga which continues to hold influence today, and founded the influential Ohlanga High School, which has produced many of South Africa’s most powerful personalities.

14 INANDA SEMINARY The Inanda Seminary has had a profound impact on South Africa and its history. For it is here that John Dube’s grandmother was converted to by the American missionary Daniel Lindley and where Dube’s father worked as one of the first ordained pastors of Lindley’s American Zulu Mission. Established in 1869 at the Inanda Mission Station, the seminary was the first secondary school for African girls in Southern Africa and the only mission school in South Africa which managed to escape incorporation into apartheid structures and remain a private school. The campus remains active today and is accessible to tourists. Phone +27 31 510 1011.

SHAKA ZULU More than 200 years after his reign, Shaka remains an icon of global significance. Battlefields Holiday The battlefields of KwaZulu-Natal are located mainly in the Recognised as one of the world’s greatest military hinterland of the . The 63 battlefield sites are haunting reminders strategists, he has been the subject of fervent of some of the bloodiest encounters in colonial history, including conflicts mythologising, casting him as a warrior of classical between the Voortrekkers and the Zulus, the Zulus and the British and the Boers proportions. Whatever the truth, he cast a shadow and the British. Campaign Trails (www.campaigntrails.co.za) offer a number of too large for legend to give way to accuracy. battlefields tours, as do several other operators. Phone +27 31 767 4166.

History In Museums Durban has a diverse selection of museums which provide a broad range of information about the collective history of the city and the region. From the KwaMuhle Museum, which illustrates the oppressive conditions experienced by black people under apartheid, to the Natural Science Museum, which explores the biological history of South Africa, a wealth of historical resources is available to historians, researchers and anyone keen to learn more about the fascinating history of eThekwini. See Museums Section for more information.

15 CITY PLANS

WITH THE 2010 FIFA WORLD CUP CAME THE PROMISE of prosperity as the world focused on South Africa and its major cities, putting Durban firmly on the international map. But for the city to maximise the economic opportunities and media attention of this global event, it must look beyond 2010, towards a sustainable and viable future. The following projects, many now complete, demonstrate the many ways in which prosperity and success can be achieved as part of a city’s overall growth. CENTRAL DURBAN While Durban’s beachfront showcases the pleasures of THE PEOPLE MOVER This new bus system forms part of a transport the city’s coastlines to locals and well-heeled international redesign process that the city implemented in preparation for the 2010 Fifa World Cup. With closed circuit surveillance cameras installed tourists, the townships of Phoenix, KwaMashu and on each bus and wardens stationed at all stops to help tourists and are gradually normalising into more conventional urban passengers, the People Mover promises a safe and reliable public environments with their own political and economic centres, transport system. With an access ramp for wheelchairs and prams, thanks largely to the remarkable Bridge City development, and onboard information about the city, the buses cover the beach- a City-led urban intervention. Transport in the city will greatly front and inner city routes from 6.30am to 11pm every day. improve as the People Mover system evolves from its role as a World Cup courier to the stadium, while the new state- of-the-art airport and trade port establish Durban as one of Africa’s most connected cities.

ICC EXTENSION The Albert Luthuli International Convention Centre has been extremely successful since its inception, establishing Durban as one of the world’s conferencing capitals. It has recently been extended, doubling its size and providing expanded services. There is now a world-class indoor arena, as well as open spaces around the building which contribute to its iconic appearance and which will soon be extended to activate the adjacent area. The ICC Arena puts the ICC Durban in a league of its own, making it the only indoor venue in the country able to accommodate over 10 000 people. CENTRAL DURBAN 16 CENTRAL DURBAN REINVENTING THE BEACHFRONT Over the past year, the city has been hard at work rebuilding the beachfront, putting in place a promenade that runs the full stretch of the city centre’s coastline. Part of a bold new vision for reinventing the beachfront, the renovation is the centrepiece of a broad strategy to dramatically NORTH DURBAN grow Durban’s market. The aim is to offer a beachfront NANDI DRIVE This is the largest road project ever package that will appeal to the full spectrum of beach users, from undertaken by the eThekwini Municipality. The local water sports enthusiasts to visitors from around the world. R320 million construction of the Nandi Road Arterial has opened up the area to a wealth of economic activity. The development has facilitated easier access to the city for residents to the north of the city centre, eased traffic congestion coming from Inanda, KwaMashu and North Coast Road, and opened up approximately 280 hectares of land for light industrial, commercial and residential development projects.

KWAMASHU TOWN CENTRE The Inanda//Kwa- Mashu (INK) initiative is driving an ambitious social realignment programme to accelerate the development of communities living in these areas. The R30 million KwaMashu Town Centre upgrade has provided physical infrastructure, business support and safety in the area. The city is actively promoting private investment in the town centre as part of its NORTH DURBAN regeneration programmes in formerly disenfranchised CBDs. 17 CENTRAL DURBAN WIDENING THE HARBOUR MOUTH As part of an extensive upgrade which will transform the Port of Durban into a well-defined logistics hub, the harbour mouth has been substantially widened – from 130m to 300m at its widest point – and the entrance channel deepened so that the port CENTRAL DURBAN can handle the new generation of massive ‘super ships’. Additionally, an THE Construction agreement between the National Authority and the Municipality of this world-class multi-purpose sports stadium includes plans for upgrading the existing container terminal, a new was completed in 2009. The elegant new complex container terminal, and a new general-cargo terminal on the Point. was one of the major host stadiums for the 2010 Fifa World Cup and will be a major asset for future Olympic bids. The stadium can accommodate Dominant Sectors Durban is the country’s most visited tourist destination and has the second largest manufacturing base, as well as a strong agri- 70000 spectators and is part of the Municipality’s cultural sector and growing IT, outsourcing, printing and creative industries. Beyond 2010 strategy which aims to establish Durban as Africa’s premier sporting destination.

The Role Of Infrastructure In Economic Development A central role of the eThekwini Municipality is to sensitively provide infrastructure that will help to grow the local economy while minimising negative externalities such as noise and air pollution. The success of Nandi Drive is a good example of how the provision of infrastructure by local government can catalyse development in an area. By connecting the outer ring freeway with Durban’s northern suburbs, access to much land has been opened up, allowing for the development of commercially intensive areas such as River Horse Park and alleviating congestion at other arterial entrances to Durban. Similarly, the City’s public-private partnership with Hulett is helping to facilitate the economic and urban integration of the formerly marginalised areas of Phoenix, Inanda, Ntuzuma and KwaMashu. What was once a mass of semi-rural housing is very quickly turning into a small city that will activate the area around it.

18 NORTH DURBAN DUBE TRADE PORT With the newly completed King Shaka at its centre, the Dube Trade Port, once completed, will see the establishment of an exciting state of the art export zone incorporating a new air platform linked with the seaports of Durban and . By attracting private sector investment and providing a multi- modal platform for local exporters to more effectively tap into global markets, the Dube Trade Port will serve as a catalyst for economic development and sustainable job creation. The Trade Port will incorporate a trade zone, a cyberport, perishables facilities, freight CENTRAL DURBAN transfer facilities and other commercial and retail opportunities. RENOVATING THE CITY During 2010 significant progress was made with an ambitious project to revitalise the inner city and its immediate arterial suburbs. Much of the city has been renovated including roads, pavements, lighting and the City Hall itself. Additionally, many building owners have followed the city’s lead, resulting in a cleaner, more liveable city.

KING SHAKA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT includes an integrated passenger and freight airport without the significant constraints associated with the old Durban International Airport. Nearly 20000 square metres in size, the passenger terminal, with ‘parking spaces’ for 18 passenger aircrafts, allows for seven million passengers every year, with NORTH DURBAN opportunities for significant expansion built into the design. 19 SOUTH DURBAN OUTER WEST GALLERIA SHOPPING CENTRE in Amanzimtoti features 12 movie HILLCREST The suburb of Hillcrest experienced a houses, an ice-skating rink, indoor putt-putt, sea view restaurants building boom in the 1990s and 2000s with the and a collection of retail giants. Boasting 87 000 square metres construction of a number of gated communities of retail space and 5700 secure parking bays, the focus is on good and shopping centres. Previously a sleepy village old-fashioned family entertainment and affordable prices. With on the outskirts of Durban, Hillcrest has now become the launch of the Galleria, the beachfront Water World and Fun a booming suburb incorporated into the eThekwini Land, Amanzimtoti is proving to be the new destination of choice Municipal Area. With existing road and sewage for Durbanites who are a little removed from the city centre. systems unable to cope with the development boom, upgrade programmes estimated at some R60 million were initiated. The widening of a number of main and arterial roads, additional traffic lights and the completion of the Durban-bound on-ramp from Shongweni Road have made significant differences in easing traffic movement, while sewerage concerns have been addressed by upgrades to the existing Hillcrest Wastewater Treatment Works.

HAMMARSDALE Construction has begun on a multimillion Rand development project to turn the area into a vibrant, high-amenity regional town centre that will serve the Hammarsdale and Mpumalanga areas. Phase one consists of R30m bulk infrastructure, laying the foundations for an 18000 square metre shopping centre, the first such facility to OUTER WEST be established in the currently under-serviced town centre. 20 SOUTH DURBAN UMLAZI MEGACITY , completed at a cost of R150 million, means that Umlazi’s residents can now shop in comfort and safety. The project was driven by private sector developers with the support of the eThekwini Municipality, giving life to the city’s commitment – as stated in its Integrated Development Plan – to revitalise areas by using its economic position to lever private sector funding. Umlazi SOUTH DURBAN MegaCity represents the first phase in a process of transforming both the physical appearance and social dynamics of a community that in THE SOUTH DURBAN BASIN consists of a nationally the past was spatially isolated and economically marginalised as part important industrial area interspersed with a substantial of the ‘separate development’ of apartheid’s town planning policies. residential component. Key infrastructure upgrades aimed at improving service delivery are being rolled out in an area previously neglected by the apartheid regime. These upgrades include a major traffic interchange, electrical substation upgrades and road and storm water upgrades, as well as the improvement of the public realm through urban cleaning and greening.

CITY GUIDES The Municipality has recently published a number of City Guides, including guides to Durban’s galleries and museums, as well as to the important cultural precincts of Inanda, Warwick Junction, Grey Street and the city centre. The guides, which were originated with the 2010 Fifa World Cup in mind, will continue to be produced in the future, with a number of architectural guides in the pipeline for the ALL AREAS World Congress of Architects which Durban will host in 2014. 21 NORTH DURBAN BRIDGE CITY Bridge City is a new town centre being developed 17 kilometres from the Durban city centre, bridging the communities of Phoenix, Inanda, Ntuzuma and KwaMashu and integrating them into the urban system. This visionary new town will serve as the social and commercial centre to SOUTH DURBAN an area housing a population of over 800 000 people, who at present AUTOMOTIVE CLUSTER Durban is the city of have generally poor access to facilities and social services. It will be a choice for South Africa’s globalised automotive catalyst for economic growth and the empowerment of surrounding industry and is home to South Africa’s largest communities by improving access to transport, work and commercial activity. vehicle assembler, Toyota SA. The region’s automotive industry receives strong support from eThekwini Municipality and benefits from a highly Twenty Twenty Vision The Municipality’s Economic Development Strategy was developed logistics platform emanating from the adopted in July 2008, outlining a set of choices and outcomes to ultimately achieve Durban harbour. The automotive industry is the the overall vision of becoming Africa’s most caring and liveable city by 2020. largest manufacturing sector in South Africa.

Urban Growth Rural Backlog Recent indicators suggest that the eThekwini Municipality’s economy is outperforming the national economy in terms of the Gini Coefficient, unemployment rate and Gross Domestic Product. Locally, the introduction of the Dube Trade Port, the 2010 Fifa World Cup and the major expansion plans around the Port of Durban are three main projects that will act as major catalysts for the city’s economic growth over the next decade, with a legacy lasting well into the 21st Century. At the same time, substantial progress has been made in extending basic household services to previously unconnected households, with approximately 75% of all households now having access to adequate levels of such services. The major backlog areas coincide geographically with existing informal settlements and rural and peri-urban areas. The key development challenge facing the Municipality is to address the service delivery backlogs in these areas.

22 The Value of Durban’s Open Spaces The value of natural goods and services Business Contacts provided by Durban’s more than 63 000 hectares of open space is estimated to Business Referral and Information Durban Investment Promotion be valued at more than R3billion. The Network (BRAIN) Agency (DIPA) value of goods and services, such as Basic information for small businesses PO Box 1203, Durban 4000 water and firewood provided by the www.brain.org.za Tel: +27 31 336 2516/40 natural environment in rural areas, Fax:+27 31 336 2641 provides an estimated R8000 per annum Department of Economic Cell: +27 82 924 6349 Development and Tourism E-mail: [email protected] in services to each household. This means Private Bag X001, Bishopsgate, www.dipa.co.za that if the natural resources were 4009 depleted in our rural areas, each Tel: +27 31 310 5303 household would have to find R8 000 Fax: +27 31 307 6152 each year to purchase the goods and E-mail: [email protected] Economic Development Department, www.kzn-deat.gov.za eThekwini Municipality services that were previously provided PO Box 5856, Durban, 4000 free of charge by the natural Durban Africa Tel: +27 31 311 3801 environment. As such, there are important PO Box 1044, Durban, 4000 Fax: +27 31 306 0195 economic reasons, beyond the concerns Tel: +27 31 304 4934 E-mail: [email protected] of conservation, to ensure the sustain- Fax: +27 31 304 6196 able provision of the city’s open spaces. E-mail: [email protected] Durban Chamber of Commerce eThekwini Municipality and Industry Development and Planning Unit PO Box 1506, Durban, 4000 PO Box 680, Durban, 4000 Tel: +27 31 335 1000 Tel: +27 31 311 2911 Fax:+27 31 332 1288 Fax: +27 31 311 2684 E-mail: [email protected] www.durban.gov.za/eThekwini/Municipality/Planning www.durbanchamber.co.za

KING’S PARK SPORTS The City’s vision of becoming Africa’s premier sporting and leisure destination has been taken a step further with the King’s Park Sports Precinct, with the Moses Mabhida Stadium at its centre. As part of the Municipality’s Beyond 2010 strategy, it was deemed practical to build the stadium in an area where all the Olympic sporting codes co-exist in close proximity with world class facilities. The construction of the precinct gives high priority to important developmental benefits such as housing, infrastructure, transport and hotels. CENTRAL DURBAN 23 More Business Contacts

Local Exporters Ombudsperson for Banking Services www.southafricanexporters.co.za PO Box 5728, Johannesburg, 2000 Tel: +27 11 838 0035 Albert Luthuli International or +27 0860 800 900 Convention Centre Durban Fax: +27 11 838 0043 PO Box 155, Durban, 4000, South Africa www.obssa.co.za Tel: +27 31 360 1000 Fax: +27 31 360 1005 Portnet – Port of Durban E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 1027, Dalton, 4000, South Africa www.icc.co.za Tel: 27 31 361 8804 Fax: +27 31 361 8920 Ithala Development Finance E-mail: [email protected] Corporation Ltd www.portnet.co.za/durban/ PO Box 2801, Durban, 4000 Tel: +27 31 907 8810 Small Enterprise Development Agency Fax: +27 31 907 5685 (SEDA) E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 56714, Arcadia, 0007 www.ithala.co.za Tel: 0860 103 703 or +27 12 441 1000 KwaZulu-Natal Economic Council E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 30886, Mayville, 4058, South Africa www.seda.org.za Tel: +27 31 261 8181 Fax: +27 31 261 8185 Thekwini Business Development E-mail: [email protected] Centre (TBDC) PO Box 623, Durban, 4000 KwaZulu-Natal Tourism Authority Tel: +27 31 309 5432 PO Box 2516, Durban 4000, South Africa Fax: +27 31 309 5437 Tel: +27 31 304 7144 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: +27 31 305 6693 E-mail: [email protected] Trade and Investment KZN www.zulukingdom.org.za PO Box 4245, Durban, 4000 Tel:+27 31 366 0600 National African Federated Chamber Fax:+27 31 304 4471 of Commerce and Industry - Inyanda Email: [email protected] PO Box 3095, Durban, 4000, South Africa Tel: +27 31 304 2911 Fax: +27 31 305 4913

24 25 FAITH

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT RELIGION IN DURBAN, you can learn much from a walk around the city’s streets. As well as the host of mosques, temples, churches and cathedrals, declarations of faith are to be found everywhere – from the small star-shaped insignia that Zionist devotees wear on their lapels to the huge selection of buses and minibuses bearing religious messages. Although South Africa is constitionally a secular country, most of its population lays claim to a recognised faith, with the majority of Durbanites claiming some form of Christianity as CHRISTIANITY While most Durbanites profess to being Christians, their belief structure. In keeping with the city’s multicultural this often means an entirely different set of rituals, prophets and theological structures to those usually associated with the faith. reality, religion in Durban is a vibrant melting pot of beliefs and African Christianity, in the form of the Zionist and Shembe theologies many of which have been reconstructed and infused devotees, constitute a sizeable proportion of the Christians in with a spirituality that is markedly African in its content. Durban, although there is a significant and diverse following of And while religions are often defined by their separateness ‘conventional’ Christianities. Together, they fulfill every possible from each other, in times of struggle, Durban’s various belief permutationAlbum: Introducing within the Shiyaniparameters Ncgobo of modern Christianity. systems often come together in multi-faith services. From the Shembe devotees to the Hare Krishnas to the Zanzibari Muslims, faith in Durban is a reflection of the global nature of the city’s genesis.

SHEMBE The Shembe faith is often referred to as an Africanised Christianity. Although there is much reference to the Old Testament and conventional Christian rituals, the faith’s spiritual resonance is more African than Western. The church was founded in 1910 by the Prophet Isaiah Shembe and today has millions of followers who gather together in marginal outdoor spaces. Dressed in white, they assemble on traffic islands around the city for prayer or to practise their haunting Shembe horn, the inspiration for the vuvuzela. 26 arrived in South Africa as early as 1658 HINDUISM Although only 2% of Durban’s population are Hindu, the with the Dutch settlement in the Cape, but the faith has had a significant impact on the city, with a network of Hindu first mosque was only erected in 1804. With the Temples and a culture of vegetarianism being two of its gifts to the arrival of Indian labourers in Natal, the Muslim city. Hinduism first appeared in Durban in 1860 when indentured community mushroomed and today constitutes an labourers arrived from India to work on the sugar plantations of Natal. important component of life in South Africa. A Very soon they started to build shrines and temples, replicating the large proportion of South African Muslims are religious idiom of their homeland. Today South African found in Durban and the azaan (the call to the practice their faith in much the same way as they would do in India, faithful) is heard in many parts of the metro area. with a rich selection of temples located throughout eThekwini.

Religious Holidays Although South Africa is officially a secular country, most Religious Harmony The faith-based conflict that is South Africans acknowledge a faith of some kind. The local calendar reflects evident in many parts of the world is not reflected in the traditional Christian holidays but they are generally celebrated with little Durban’s religious landscape where harmony is generally cultural specificity. If you were to send out a holiday email in Durban in the order of the day. While the legacy of apartheid is December, you would wish people ‘a happy festive season’, acknowledging that still with us in many ways, contemporary South Africa not everyone celebrates Christmas but that everyone enjoys a holiday. is a country of great tolerance and acceptance.

Temples Of Understanding You don’t need to be Muslim to enter a Mosque or Hindu to visit a temple. And you don’t need to be a follower of Shembe to walk into the sacred stone circles which constitute their churches. But you do need to be respectful, ask before you enter and accept that in most religious spaces there will be areas that are forbidden to non-believers. Generally, you should take off your shoes, and also accept the fact that in many local theologies, men and women will sometimes occupy different areas of a site or venue.

27 The predominant religious belief systems in South Africa are a fusion of Christianity and traditional beliefs. Referred to as Syncretism, Apostolicism and Zionism, Africanised Christianity is a marriage of western ritual and theology with African religious culture. The overwhelming majority of African Christians favour Africanised versions of Christianity, which do not violate the foundations of their traditional cultures.

ZANZIBARI The Zanzibari community arrived on our coast in 1874 after being rescued by the British from a slave ship. Their ‘rescue’ consisted of a five year term of indentured labour, after which they returned to their traditional way of life, collectively buying a plot of land on the Bluff. Under apartheid, they were relocated to Chatsworth where they continue to follow Islam as their forefathers did.

HARE KRISHNA Chatsworth, in South Durban, boasts the biggest Hare Krishna temple in Africa and is home to a thriving Krishna community. A visit to the beautiful, lotus-shaped Temple of Understanding is an essential part of the Durban experience. And while you’re there, you should really have lunch downstairs at Govindas, the temple’s vegetarian restaurant whose kitchen also provides delicious food for the poor all over eThekwini. 28 Religion and Colonialism Religion played an important role in the history Places of Worship of colonialism in Southern Africa. On the one hand, it was used as one of the CHURCHES HINDU TEMPLES MOSQUES SYNAGOGUES many smokescreens to legitimise the Apostolic Faith Mission Hindu Juma Musjid Mosque Durban Hebrew actions of the colonial authorities. On Yusuf Dadoo Street, Temple, 588 Vusi Mzi- Yusuf Dadoo Street, Congregation the other hand, the spread of Christianity City Centre mela Road, Cato Manor City Centre Cnr. Stephen Dlamini also played a significant role in resisting and Silverton Roads Dutch Reformed Durban Hindu Temple Soofie Mosque Berea the forces of colonialism, both in the Church 151 Anton 24 Somtseu Road, 50 Lower Bridge establishment of the Africanised Lembede Street City Centre Road, Riverside Durban Progressive Christian churches and in opposition by Jewish Congregation liberal churches to the race-based Methodist Church Shree Gengaiammen Soofie Mosque 369 Ridge Road inequalities of apartheid. While the 70 Lena Ahrens 814 Vusi Mzimela Umgeni Road, corner Berea Road, Glenwood Road, Cato Manor Alpine Road -based Nederduits Chabad of the North Gereformeerde Kerk played a central St James’ Church Shree Nivasa Peru- Mosque Coast part in sustaining apartheid and its 109/111 Venice mal Kouvil 64 Glenearn Road, 11 Flamingo Lane ideologies, there were many churches Road, Morningside 127 Felix Dlamini Road Durban Umhlanga Rocks and missionaries who defied the system St John’s Church Umgeni Road Temple Soofie Saheb Badha Durban Jewish Club of apartheid. Over the decades, churches 205 Clark Road, Complex 535 Umgeni Peer Darbar 44 KE Masinga Road have frequently been sites of activism Glenwood Road, Greyville 535 Umgeni Road City Centre and remain so today. Additionally, the history of missionaries in South Africa Trinity Congregational West Street Mosque Holocaust Centre is intricately tied to the creation of a 284 Florida Road, 478 Dr Pixley 44 KE Masinga Road Morningside KaSeme Street City Centre small black educated class, many of whom entered political life in the resistance struggle against the apartheid regime. Whatever their intent at the time, the early missionaries would no doubt smile at the fact that the majority of South Africans profess to be Christian.

JUDAISM Judaism arrived in South Africa in the Cape in the early 1800s when European Jews immigrated to the country, and by the first half of the 20th Century Jewish society was flourishing in South Africa. Today, however, Jewish people constitute only 0.2% of the population, with the majority living in Johannesburg. Durban maintains a small but active Jewish community, linked by a small number of synagogues in the Metro area as well as by several Jewish organisations, including the Jewish Club near the beachfront which has recently opened the remarkable Holocaust Museum. 29 COMMERCE

LIKE THE REST OF SOUTH AFRICA, DURBAN’S economy consists of a formal and an informal sector. For a long time ignored, the importance of the informal economy is finally being recognised by economists as a vital and inextricable component of the broader economy. In Durban this recognition is at the centre of city governance, finance and planning. Once pushed to the very margins of the city, provision has now been made for informal traders in the form of shelters, waste removal and large-scale projects such as the regeneration of the Warwick THE CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT Like much of the city, Junction area. Durban’s central business district went into a slight decline during the immediate period of transition to democracy. But Concomitant with this recognition is the need for now it is as bustling and vibrant as ever, filled with street-traders, regulation; an approach that needs to be balanced with small boutiques and mainstream chainstores, which sit beneath the abilities of traders to conform with these regulations. office blocks that rise into the sky. The CBD is the best place The sheer volume of traders makes this a momentous task to view a representative sample of Durban’s inhabitants, that requires careful consideration without neglecting the sincewww.siwelasonke.co.za commerce is an area in which everybody comes together. demands of the formal sector.These factors, along with the large geographical area of the Metro region, mean that economic activity is defined by diversity. massive oil refineries in South Durban process the oil before More than 20% of the formally employed South African it is pumped to Johannesburg. Other industries are located in workforce live in Durban, making it one of South Africa’s enclaves just north of the city in various industrial parks, and key economic engines. The harbour and Durban’s relative west of the city in the Queensmead area near . Further proximity to the major industrial area of Johannesburg has west, small, medium and large-scale farming predominates. ensured a solid economic base for the city and the Metro The South African economy is undergoing a transformation area. But much manufacturing activity also takes place that is enabling us to compete more effectively globally. Part of within Durban itself. Industrial activity is concentrated in the process is the reduction of trade tariffs, which has unfortunately the South Durban Basin. Here you’ll find Toyota, South resulted in difficulties for certain industries, such as the large Africa’s largest auto maker, as well as satellite industries textile industry which now has to compete with a greater number and a large chemical plant. Durban is also the drop-off of imported goods. When jobs are shed in the formal sector, it point for most of the oil which comes into South Africa; often means that people seek employment in the informal sector.

30 THE HARBOUR Durban’s economic importance to the Southern African region is underlined by its massive harbour, the second largest in the Southern Hemisphere (the largest is Richard’s Bay, 200 kilometres north of Durban). Until recently the harbour has been entirely industrial, save for the presence of the BAT Centre in the small craft harbour and a few bars dotted around its extensive quayside. In the last few years, CONFERENCING With the construction and expansion however, industry has been pushed back from certain areas in the of the International Convention Centre and the adjacent harbour,www.siwelasonke.co.za providing entertainment spots on the water’s edge. Hilton Hotel, Durban has become a global Mecca for a broad spectrum of conferencing. From the Non-Aligned Movement to the World Conference on Racism, the ICC has been instrumental in focusing the international spotlight on Durban. So, if you’re bored with Acapulco or Honolulu, suggest Durban as your next conference venue and treat your colleagues to a convention experience in the heart of this wonderful African city.

GREY STREET Durban’s Indian quarter, named after the street that runs through it (now renamed Yusuf Dadoo), is a favourite shopping experience for Durbanites who prefer the bustle of the city’s streets to that of the mall. More importantly, the area offers a vast range of products for those who can’t afford mall prices. Rich in culture and history, the centre of the precinct is the Juma Musjid Mosque which shares its structure with adjacent stores and madressas. 31 RURAL AND SEMI-RURAL DURBAN The Durban Metro Area is extensive and includes many rural and semi-rural communities. Under apartheid, these areas had very few commercial spaces and access to little or no basic services. Part of the challenge of renegotiating and reconstructing these spaces is ensuring that the people who live there have access, LOOSE CIGARETTE SELLERS At the heart of the not only to water and electricity, but also to such modern-day necessities informal economy is the micro-profit. For those as bank machines, shopping centres and emergency services. at the lower end of the economic spectrum, small 30% of the Metro population live in rural or semi-rural areas. amounts of money have a substantial impact. On the streets of Durban and in its poorer suburbs and business , you will find people selling individual sweets and loose cigarettes. The mark- up on each unit is minimal, but provides a small but reliable income for thousands of people.

SECOND-HAND SHOPS are popular with a broad range of Durbanites as decorating styles from earlier decades swing back into favour. The increasing hype surrounding retro furniture has meant that prices have begun to rise, but the second-hand shops of the city and its suburbs are still ripe for the picking. The retro shop Eclectic, on the corner of Gordon and Florida Road, is a great source of items from bygone eras, as well as a glorious assortment of kitsch, and is used extensively by interior decorators. 32 UMHLANGA RIDGE If you drive north up the coast from Durban and take the turnoff to the Gateway shopping centre, you’ll see a mass of white 21st Century buildings. This giant new office park is home to the provincial or national headquarters of many of the country’s leading companies and multinational corporations. While there are those who object to the construction of this second CBD away from the city, the acceleration of development in Durban has meant that the ever-expanding Umhlanga Ridge development has not taken place at the expense of Durban’s central business precinct. GATEWAY Built on 28 hectares of prime Umhlanga Album: When I Grow Up, Fox Hill Lane Ridge real estate and comprising 120 000 square metres of ultra-modern retail space, Gateway Theatre of Shopping is one of the largest shopping centres in the Southern Hemisphere. The centre is also the nucleus of the 160- hectare Umhlanga Ridge New Town Centre development.

CONNECTIVITY Although computer literacy in Durban faces conventional literacy as the first of its challenges, it is imperative that the digital divide be narrowed for eThekwini to grow in a global market. Computer colleges populate the city and internet cafés are easily accessible. Broadband connectivity is finally here and the price of bandwidth is slowly dropping. 33 MARKETS Many Durbanites buy much of their food from the various markets in and around Durban. Fish markets, meat markets and fresh produce markets line the commuter route out of Durban where a significant number of the city’s residents buy their evening’s provisions SHOEMAKERS Craft skills in South Africa were on the way home. On the periphery of the markets, smaller traders sell severely damaged under the restriction of apartheid. all manner of wares from audio cassettes to belts, headache tablets to As the new South Africa blooms, craftspeople are loose cigarettes. While the markets are the cheapest source of basic returning to the streets, their skills often informed foodstuffs for working class consumers, middle class Durbanites generally by the trickle of people from countries further north. do their shopping at supermarkets in malls, or at stores near their Shoemakers are a prime example of this, and you homes. Additionally, many pay a substantial premium for organically can get shoes fixed while-you-wait all over Durban. grown vegetables produced by small-scale farmers, available at morning The price is low, the quality is high, and a much- markets and fleamarkets. Increasingly, many of the city’s fleamarkets loved pair of shoes gets to walk once again. also sell a variety of fresh produce and manufactured foodstuffs.

The Markets of Warwick City Guide The Warwick Junction area is one of Durban’s most important commercial and transit hubs, particularly for the city’s working class, many of whom straddle the urban/rural divide. In Warwick you’ll find an extraordinary array of human activity which caters to the hundreds of thousands of people who move through the area each day. Cars roar by overhead on newly built freeways while herbalists sell traditional medicine on an abandoned fly-over now linked by a footbridge to the activities below. Follow that bridge and you’ll find yourself in a vibrant, polyphonic world that is home to a mass of commercial and cultural activities, including various markets which sell everything from blue jeans and farm-fresh produce to religious goods and cooked animal heads. The eThekwini Municipality has produced a series of City Guide area maps, including one which explores the various markets of Warwick. Pick up a copy of the Markets of Warwick City Guide at Tourist Junction in the centre of Durban.

34 Targeting the Townships One of the most enduring legacies of apartheid Markets in Durban is the existence of racially defined townships all over South Africa. As well Victoria Street Market Church Square Market Car Boot Market as enforcing segregation, the townships This market in the Indian Open daily, just behind Tourism It’s amazing what some people also represented pools of surplus labour quarter of Durban has two Junction, with a large variety throw away. And amazing what whose reliance on the ‘white economy’ floors crammed with curios, of clothing, sunglasses etc. some people try to sell. A junk- was ensured by constructing the towns- spices and homeware. Between Commercial Street collector’s dream. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am- and Monty Naicker Road. Sundays 7am-1pm. hips without their own economies. This 1pm. Daily 8.30am-4.30pm. Mathews Meyiwa Road. is one of the central challenges that +27 31 306 4021 +27 82 451 0744 +27 31 209 4751 Durban faces as a city and as a Municipality - to help develop and grow Warwick Avenue Fresh Essenwood Road Market The Bluff Fleamarket economic activity in these sprawling Produce Market Open only on Saturday Arts, crafts, collectibles and junk This market bustles with morning, this distinctly crafty are all available at the Bluff residential towns. This also means activity as vendors ply their market includes a variety of Showgrounds, on the first and that the townships represent vast fresh fruit and vegetables home-made products and a last Saturdays of the month. potential for business opportunities, which come from all over the range of food and beverages. And while you’re there, check both to residents and outside investors. province. Berea Park, Stephen Dlamini out some of the magnificent Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am- Road. Sat 9am-2pm. beaches on the Bluff. 1pm. +27 31 208 9916 +27 82 049 8151

South Plaza Market The Stables Drummond Craft Market With several hundred stalls, One of Durban’s most This small market is packed this market sprawls around the charming markets, The Stables with locally made art and crafts. centrally situated Workshop is open in the evenings on There is also a restaurant and shopping centre every Sunday. Wednesdays and Fridays. quick access to the breathtaking Samora Machel Street next to 291-242 Jacko Jackson Drive. Valley of a Thousand Hills. Durban Exhibition Centre. Wed/Fri 6pm-10pm, Sun Old Main Road, Drummond. Sun 9am-4pm. 12pm-6pm. Thurs-Sun 9am-4.30pm. +27 31 301 9900 +27 31 301 9900 +27 82 784 9728

WARWICK AVENUE is a non-stop kaleidoscope of local culture. Zulu muthi (traditional medicine) sellers ply their wares on a disused freeway next to the West Street Cemetery and the tomb of a local Muslim saint. The Early Morning Market sits at the centre of Warwick, surrounded by all manner of traders, from the large, neon-lit butchery to the vendors who sell loose cigarettes and phone calls on battery operated telephones. Warwick Junction is the busiest intersection in Durban, fed by a series of bus ranks and a train station. Up to 500 000 commuters pass through the area each day. 35 EATING

AS WITH MOST ASPECTS OF LIFE IN DURBAN, THERE is no specific style that defines the food we eat, although if you combined Californian, Indian and African cooking, you might arrive at some vague approximation. In eThekwini, fusion is the dominant force and eclecticism the order of the day. The political freedom that arrived in the ’90s has had a spillover culinary effect and South African cuisine has blossomed in the last decades, as minds have opened and the global grocery store has arrived on our shelves. At the same time, a wide variety of small- THE BUNNYCHOW consists of thick, delicious Durban scale local producers have emerged, from cheese sellers spooned into a hollowed-out half loaf of bread and is widely thought to have been invented as a response to apartheid. to small organic farmers to local microbreweries, reflecting Under the old dispensation, seating areas in restaurants were the international trend towards recognising food production reserved for white people. With takeaways becoming as craft rather than industry. something of a necessity for most of the population of the So in Durban you can sample the planet’s menus and old South Africa, the self-contained bunnychow was invented. also discover entirely new genres of food. Sushi meets TASTE IT AT: Cocos in Mathews Meyiwa Road, Morningside roti. The burrito meets Zulu spinach. The samoosa encases a filling of cheese and bacon. And dhall gets poured into an Italian pasta sauce.

SHISA NYAMA is the isiZulu word for ‘hot meat’, and is a staple of local African cuisine. The meat, usually chicken or chops, is cooked to well-done on either a gas-top stove or a fire. Shisa nyama spots can be found on the streets of Durban and in townships and taxi ranks, and often form the centre of social activity. And like much African cuisine, its working class roots in no way discourage the black middle-class from partaking in the slightly charred meat.

TASTE IT AT: Warwick Junction, City Centre 36 THE DURBAN CURRY is the single cuisine that unites Durbanites across the demographic spread. Hanging out at one of Durban’s countless curry joints, you’ll find everyone from skater kids to lawyers to street people who have managed to squeeze some coins together for that day’s lunch. Imported from India and then made brasher and MEALIES ON THE STREET are cooked on a small open hotter, the Durban curry might set your nose running, but it’ll also give fire or gas-top stove and lightly salted. They provide you a taste that you won’t be able to satisfy anywhere else in the world. cheap, instant nutrition to pedestrians on the move, as

TASTE IT AT: Sunrise House of , Morningside well as an income for the mostly female vendors. If you take a walk around the city, you might even discover small gardens of this staple vegetable growing in marginal spaces and tended by the vendors themselves.

TASTE IT AT: Cnr of Dorothy Nyembe & Dr Goonam Streets

HEAD MARKETS It is true that little goes to waste in Africa, and this is clearly illustrated by the fact that when an animal is slaughtered, nothing is thrown away. In KwaZulu-Natal, inhloko (boiled cow head) is something of a delicacy. This treat, not for those of even the vaguest vegetarian persuasion, can be tasted at the Head Restaurant in Warwick Junction’s Head Market. The head is taken away for cooking at home or prepared as inhloko isigqokweni (head on a plate) and accompanied by salt and green chillies. FIND IT AT: Warwick Junction, City Centre 37 VEGETARIANS AND VEGANS Due to the presence of Durban’s substantial Hindu population, vegetarians and vegans find themselves extremely well catered for in Durban. The clutch of Hare Krishna take-aways scattered around the city offer not only mild curries but also variations on lasagne, HARILALS SPICE EMPORIUM If it’s in an Eastern cottage pie, sausage rolls, hamburgers, pizza and more, and every curry recipe book, chances are that you’ll find it here. house will have at least one veg option. But even away from Indian cuisine, Located at the bottom of Monty Naicker Road, you’ll find the city’s restaurants vegetarian-friendly. That said, avoid steakhouses.

Harilals is truly an emporium of culinary delight, FIND IT AT: Little Gujerat, Dr Goonam Street, City Centre and a thoroughly affordable one at that. As well as a huge selection of dry goods, the store also sells a large variety of kitchenware, Indian cookbooks, Dinner in the indian quarter The east end of Dr Goonam (Prince Edward) Street vegetarian products and Indian devotional items. lights up in the early evening on weekdays, with several Indian and Pakistani restaurants open until about 9pm, accompanied by paan sellers and DVD vendors. FIND IT AT: West end of Monty Naicker Road, City Centre

The Indian quarter known as Grey Street, named after the street that runs through the area (now renamed to Yusuf Dadoo Street) has a large concentration of restaurants and takeaways. Unsurprisingly, curry dominates, with a plethora of vegetarian options available as well as a broad selection of meat-based meals. If Indian fare isn’t for you, there are a few Pakistani restaurants, as well as global chains such as Wimpy and KFC. Eating in Grey Street is very affordable, and has the advantage of having the ingredients of your next meal for sale just around the corner, where formal stores and street vendors sell produce at lower prices than anywhere else.

38 L’EDICOLA ITALIAN DELI is one of Durban’s longest-running deli- JOHNNY’S CHIP-INN RANCH is one of Durban’s catessens. Located on the corner of Problem Mkhize and Clarence Roads, definitive dining experiences. Located in the heart of it’s the place where you’re guaranteed to find all things Italian, as well as Overport, Johnny’s sells a large selection of curries in a host of other items on the global fusion menu. Featuring a large variety their various permutations such as bunnychows, rotis of imported cold meats and cheeses, as well as sumptuous ready-made and good old curry-and-rice. Johnny’s is so revered Italian meals, L’Edicola is the perfect stop-off point when you feel like that its signage has appeared in galleries and there treating yourself – or some lucky guests – to a decadent smorgasboard. are more than 5000 members of its facebook group.

FIND IT AT: Corner of Problem Mkhize and Clarence Roads, Greyville FIND IT AT: Road, Overport

Slow food The Durban- Slow Food convivium, is named ‘Imifino’ after the isiZulu word for the green leaves of edible plants indigenous to the area. The convivium is based around Enaleni, in the KZN Midlands.

EVERFRESH has revolutionised grocery shopping in Dur- ban and its suburbs. While their name seldom lets them down, the main attraction is the sheer variety of fruit and veg on display, as well as a cornucopia of cheese and other dairy products, a butchery and a bakery. A one-stop, preservative-free grocery experience, Everfresh, which has recently gone into partnership with Fruit and Veg City under the brand name of Food Lovers Market, has had a remarkable impact on many Durbanites’ approach to food.

FIND IT: All over Durban 39 EATING OUTDOORS In recent years Durbanites have increasingly taken ROMA REVOLVING RESTAURANT A visit to to the pavements. Under apartheid town planning, the use of public Durban isn’t really complete without dinner at space was strictly controlled, and it has taken many years for both the the Roma. One of about 30 such structures general public and the city’s restaurants to slowly creep out into the around the world, its Italianate decor provides alfresco pleasures of pavement dining. This movement gained momentum a surreal contrast to its magnificent views of during the Fifa World Cup, as venues around the city expanded their Durban. The food is conventional high-end Italian seating areas in order to accommodate the increased numbers of patrons. fare with a sumptuous ’70s style dessert trolley.

FIND IT AT: Cafe Jiran, on the northern end of the beachfront promenade FIND IT: on Margaret Mncadi Avenue

Peace For the ultimate in karma-free cuisine, head to the Temple of Understanding in Chatsworth, where the lavish structure invites spiritual contemplation and the restaurant provides sumptuously wholesome food for the body and soul.

FLORIDA ROAD offers some of Durban’s finest restaurants with new venues opening all the time. One of Morningside’s leafiest, most picturesque roads, it is becoming something of a culinary high street for Durban diners. From the relaxed pavement ambience of Spiga D’Oro to the eastern tastes of Mo Noodles and Sunrise House of Curries, there’s some- thing for every palate as well as a good selection of coffee.

FIND IT AT: Florida Road, Morningside 40 Organic Food in Durban The market for organic food in Durban Restaurants is still relatively small, although as in most places, it is rapidly Moyo Buds on the Bay China Plate Palki 1 Bell Street Bayhead Park C 11 Browns Drift Road 225 Musgrave Road expanding as savvy middle-class uShaka Village Walk 30 Grunter’s Gully Riverside Berea consumers increasingly question +27 31 332 0606 +27 31 466 6100 +27 31 564 6437 +27 31 201 0019 the quality of industrially produced food. Most of the large supermarket Johnny’s Chip-Inn Bel Punto Cake & Satay House Mo’s Noodles chains have organic ranges, Ranch 1 South Beach Road Albert Ndlomo Road 275 Florida Road 88 Moses Kotane Beach Umbilo Morningside although there is usually a hefty Road, Overport +27 31 568 2407 +27 82 716 3793 +27 31 312 4193 premium charged for the privelige. +27 31 209 2020 While many restaurants in Durban Arts Café Delfi 9th Avenue Bistro source much of their fresh produce Roma Revolving 166 Bulwer Road 386 Lilian Ngoyi Road 9th Avenue from organic farmers, only Earth Restaurant Glenwood Morningside Morningside 32nd Floor John Ross +27 31 201 9969 +27 31 312 7032 +27 31 312 9134 Mother Organic in Bulwer Road House claims to be completely organic. Victoria Embankment Vintage India Bangkok Wok Market In addition to a small restaurant +27 31 368 2275 20 Lilian Ngoyi Road 116 Florida Road 40 Gladys Mazibuko that makes food so delicious you’d Morningside Morningside Road, Berea never think it was healthy, Earth Café 1999 +27 31 309 1328 +27 31 303 8250 +27 31 309 8581 Shop 2 Silvervause Mother also has a store which sells Centre Daruma Spiga D’Oro Czar a wide variety of organic home 117 Vause Road 63 Snell Parade 200 Florida Road 178 Florida Road consumables, from Goji berries Berea Durban Beach Front Morningside Morningside sourced from Tibet to locally +27 31 202 3406 +27 31 337 0423 +27 31 303 9511 +27 31 312 8001 produced face creams and washing Craft The Cargo Hold Joop’s Place Little Gujerat powder. Additionally, Earth Mother 35 Newport Avenue 1 Bell Street 9th Avenue 107 Dr Goonam Street also has a regular supply of organic uShaka Marine World Greyville City Centre fruit and veg. But while the organic +27 31 562 1951 +27 31 328 8065 +27 31 312 9135 +27 31 306 2272 sector is still small, the quality of fresh produce is particularly high, since most of it is sourced from small-scale, farmers who use non-intensive farming methods.

A NEW AFRICAN CUISINE is beginning to exercise an influence on Durban’s eateries. The bunnychow has begun to appear in up- market restaurants, and South African classics such as pap-en-vleis, koeksisters, samp-and-beans and Durban curry have all arrived, finally unembarrassed, on our tables in restaurants such as Moyo. Also providing a unique local flavour is the presence of game and African meats such as ostrich and crocodile.

TASTE IT AT: Moyo, uShaka Marine World, Durban Point 41 BUILDING

AS IS THE CASE WITH MANY AFRICAN CITIES, DURBAN’S architectural history reflects that of its colonial predecessors. Yet the City’s expansion over the years has been sufficiently consistent to ensure that it now showcases a wide diversity of architectural forms. From its Edwardian and Victorian beginnings, more than 150 years of global architectural trends have been compressed into a single city. And as the new South Africa crystalises, a new architectural voice is heard singing a beautiful local language. In 2008 Durban won the bid to host the World Architecture ART DECO BUILDINGS Durban has one of the world’s largest Conference taking place in 2014, giving the city a chance concentrations of art deco buildings. One of the few architectural styles in which the detailing is incorporated to showcase its eclectic architecture and the complex absolutely into the design, this deco legacy is one of the most demands made on architects in South Africa. well-loved aspects of Durban’s architectural heritage. The Although taking place on a far smaller scale than the detailing is often infused with local symbolism. BEREA COURT 2010 Fifa World Cup, this prestigious event will enhance and Surrey Mansions are two of the most striking examples. Durban’s profile on the global stage, while the uniquely See it at: 3 Hunt Rd, Glenwood layered nature of the City will no doubt impact on the minds and output of architects around the world in the coming decades.

LAS VEGAS stands as a monument to another time that never quite existed in Durban. Probably the city’s strongest reference to BRAZILIAN MODERNISM, the luxurious building (only three apartments per floor) converts the notion of the residential highrise into a thing of free-form beauty filled with idiosyncratic detailing. Its stone-walled lobby alone is a piece of anachronistic delight that the international design set would die for. The building was designed by Benjamin and Croft, an architectural firm that built many of Durban’s most meticulously designed buildings, including Westpoint and The Riviera. See it at: 276 Suncoast Drive, Beachfront 42 THE FASCIST ARCHITECTURE of apartheid South THE JUMA MUSJID MOSQUE in Yusuf Dadoo Street is one of the largest Africa still marks the landscape in much of mosques in the Southern Hemisphere. Also known as the GREY STREET Durban, including the Mansfield campus of the MOSQUE, it represents a spiritual centre for Durban’s Muslims. It was Durban University of Technology, CR SWART built in 1930, and together with Madressa Arcade which runs through SQUARE and the Durban Station. The forms are it, replaced the original series of buildings that had popped up with the vast and blunt in their design, although the sheer arrival of non-indentured Indians in Durban in the late 1800s. The scale and brutal aesthetic appeals to some. These mosque is actually a series of interlinking buildings, arcades and corridors, buildings often had political overtones and in which commerce, religion and community exist in equilibrium. functions. residences next to CR Swart See it at: 176 Yusuf Dadoo Street, the Indian Quarter Police Station, for example, were built with the explicit but unspoken purpose of swelling a left- wing area with conservative National Party voters. The Durban Art Deco Society was formed in 2002 to raise awareness of the Durban Station, which used to be the City’s most rich diversity of art deco architectural styles that exist in the city and to attract brutal example of fascist architecture has slowly the annual International Art Deco Conference to Durban. In addition, the society undergone a facelift in recent years, and is now aims to highlight the importance of preserving art deco buildings in eThekwini. a much friendlier and more welcoming space. The Society run regular tours exploring aspects of Durban’s deco heritage. Contact Helen Labuschagne for further information on +27 31 301 1951. See it at: 3 Stalwart Simelane Rd, City Centre

ETHEKWINI MUNICIPALITY’S CITY ARCHITECTS effectively constitute Durban’s largest interdisciplainary firm of architects, urban designers, quantity surveyors and engineers. The department is responsible for the delivery of Municipal-owned building infrastructure, as well as the refurbishment of key historical landmarks, the development of the ICC and the ICC Arena as well as social, cultural and sporting facilities in Durban’s outlying areas. The department’s portfolio includes a broad range of projects, including built structures and strategic projects.

43 THE KENDRA HALL While easily identified as a Hindu temple – particularly THE CENTRAL POST OFFICE was originally built when it is draped in festive lights – the John Zikhali Road mandir is an as a town hall but by the early 20th Century it had unusual structure, and very different to the multitude of temples you will been converted to serve its current function. This see around Durban, which are mostly South Indian in origin. The mandir was before the age of the skyscraper, and the Post is built from a North Indian architectural perspective and incorporates Office and the new City Hall were then the defining symbolic elements such as flowering lotuses as part of its structure, rather elements of Durban’s skyline. Today they are dwarfed than using them decoratively as is more often the case. by the highrise construction of the CBD. See it at: 5 John Zikhali Road, Central Durban See it at: 430 Dr Pixley KaSema Street

AMAFA Durban is a young city, and as such, all structures older than 60 years are protected by heritage legislation which requires a permit from heritage body Amafa before any demolitions, alterations or additions may take place.

THE WAREHOUSES ON THE POINT , built between 1890 and 1919, are a fine and representative group of Victorian structures and point to a time when remarkable attention was paid to the design and detailing of even the most functional buildings. As the Point is upgraded and developed, these buildings, as well as the Victorian wood-and-iron houses behind them, have been getting a well deserved face-lift. See it at: 280-430 Mahatma Gandhi Street, The Point 44 THE MOSES MABHIDA STADIUM ’s iconic form is the result of a tender competition won by a consortium which includes local architects THEUNISSEN JANKOWITZ DURBAN and national firm OSMOND LANGE. The world-class DESIGN WORKSHOP : SA are the celebrated stadium’s 150m high arch is an integral structural element which provides architects of the CONSTITUTIONAL COURT in the support for the cable net of the suspension roof structure. The arch Johannesburg. Practising from a converted sports stairs and a cable car, allowing visitors an incredible view of the city. apartment building in Durban’s Florida Road, The stadium was built with the future in mind, both in terms of the Olympics, Design Workshop’s portfolio of work includes and in terms of sustainable design, which includes optimal use of energy innovative newtown renovations, and natural light, rainwater collection and re-using 30 000 cubic and a host of award- metres of concrete from the demolished stadium which preceded it. winning commercial, institution- See it at: Isaiah Ntshange Road, off Masabala Yengwa Avenue al and residential properties. www.designworkshopsa.com

A NEW AFRICAN ARCHITECTURE is emerging from firms such as EAST COAST ARCHITECTS who resist the pressure from consumers and developers alike to produce globally generic housing estates. The focus is on local content, form and references, and from this starting point a new aesthetic is born. A celebrated example of their work is Inthuthuka Junction, a multipurpose structure in Cato Manor. See it at: 759 Rick Turner Road 45 THE KING SHAKA INTERNATIONAL ARIPORT at was designed by OSMOND LANGE ARCHITECTS AND PLANNERS in collaboration with several local firms including RUBEN REDDY ARCHITECTS (pictured). Plans for the airport were first mooted in the early ’70s and finally got underway in 2006, after studies showed that the existing airport would not be able to cope with future air traffic. On 1 May 2010, the region’s new airport CHOROMANSKI ARCHITECTS are the recent was opened after a spectularly swift construction process. It will be able winners of a competition to design the Pan to process 7,5 million passengers a year, as well as alleviating pressure African Parliament buildings. The firm’s style on the Durban-Johannesburg route by freighting cargo directly out of the is defined by a design-driven practice which country. The airport is the central hub in the DUBE TRADE seeks appropriate regional PORT, a long-term planning initiative that will massively solutions to building in South stimulate the region and provide employment for hundreds Africa. The firm also designed of thousands of people over the next two decades. the inspiring Interpretation See it at: King Shaka International Airport, La Mercy Centre in the Isimangaliso area.

The KwaZulu-Natal Institute for Architecture is a voluntary organisation that was founded in 1901. One of 8 regional institutes of the South African Institute of Architects, the KZNIA represents the interests of architects, architectural practioners, the public and the built environment. It is an active organisation with a key interest in regional and local developments. Every two years the KZNIA confers Awards of Merit on well designed and critically acclaimed projects in the Province. More recently the organisation, under the auspices of the South African Institute of Architects, won the bid to host the world’s largest congress of architects, the UIA Congress, in Durban in 2014.

46 The 2014 UIA Architecture World Congress will take place in four years Architecture Firms time. In 2008, the South African Institute of Architects presented a Design Workshop: SA Choromanski Architects Stauch Vorster successful bid in Turin, Italy, to host 94 Florida Road 490 Lillian Ngoyi Road 10 Intersite Avenue the prestigious International Union Morningside Greyville of Architects Congress in Durban +27 31 303 5191 +27 31 303 2985 +27 31 263 8200 in 2014. The UIA (Union Inter- Theunissen Jankowitz Elphick Proome GAPP nationale des Architectes) Congress 14 Glenridge Road Westway Office Park 11 Cranbrook Crescent and General Assembly is held every Westville Westville Umhlanga three years and member sections +27 31 266 8386 +27 31 275 5800 +27 31 566 5547 bid for the privilege of hosting the Osmond Lange Paton Taylor MAB Ikhwezi event. The selection is made six 6 Palm Boulevard 892 Umgeni Road 76 Valley View Road years in advance. Representing 1.3 Umhlanga Stamford Hill Morningside million architects, the main objective +27 31 266 0751 +27 31 313 1071 +27 31 303 2833 of the Congress is to provide Architecture Fabrik Architronic Harber & Associates architects with an opportunity to 3 Bergthiel Place 1 Meyrick Ave PO Box 50062 participate in a series of culturally Westville Glenwood Musgrave and professionally enriching events. +27 83 366 3478 +27 31 201 3933 +27 31 209 8384 The UIA is a non-governmental Emmett Emmett Studio 88 Sakhisizwe organisation uniting the professional 362 Lilian Ngoyi Rd 23 Arcadia Road 16 Soltice Road associations of architects in over Morningside Overport Umhlanga Ridge 116 countries internationally. +27 31 312 6498 +27 31 207 6571 +27 31 566 6962 Around 7 000 architects from around the world will attend the Seitter Boyd Bruce Clark Associates Robert Johnson Architect 10a Princess Anne Place 152 JB Marks Road 127 Stephen Dlamini Road Congress in Durban, in a global Glenwood Glenwood Musgrave festival of architecture and its +27 31 261 6233 +27 31 201 5909 +27 31 201 3538 possibilities, particularly in the context of a developing city which serves such an economically and socially diverse population.

HARBER & ASSOCIATES Long a stalwart of social architecture in South Africa, Rodney Harber’s practice has been a key firm in setting the benchmark for a humanitarian architectural agenda in eThekwini and beyond. From Maputaland to the former , Harber has been instrumental in developing community centres and low-cost housing models, his practice always centred on the participation of those who will actually use the structures and spaces that he designs. Seen here: Gandhi’s house in Phoenix 47 DESIGN

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING THAT IS is perfectly representative of Durban design you’ll be disappointed, since no single object can express the multiplicity of perspectives that combine to produce something that is unmistakably but intangibly Durban. And that thing is defined more by the smell of the air and the vibrancy and edginess of the city’s streets than by any kind of unifying ethos. In a country with 11 official languages and only partial literacy, it’s not surprising that in Durban visual culture BEADWORK in Durban has evolved substantially in the last reigns supreme. In recent years, a culture of local design decade, particularly as skilled artists from neighbouring countries have filtered into Durban to sell their wares on the city’s streets. has blossomed in South Africa. This is partially due to the No longer restricted to Zulu love letters and fact that many local designers have received the prestige keychains, beadworkers such as JACQUES of international recognition, but also due to a change in SENGEYA produce a large variety of beaded the attitude of South African consumers who are finally objects from decorative animals to light fittings. eschewing international designs in favour of a local idiom. SEE IT: at Avonmore Centre, Greyville As such, local design and interior shops which used to focus almost exclusively on imports, now showcase a variety of locally inspired output, some of it echoing international trends. but the bulk of it executed in a fresh and everchanging design language.

BARBER SHOP SIGNS As the nature of Durban’s streets began to change after 1994, pavement barber shops started popping up all over eThekwini, accompanied by often beautifully painted BARBER SHOP SIGNS. The most recognised exponent of this much loved genre of illustration is BRUNO BIHIZA, a Congolese refugee who has since taken his illustration skills to London.

SEE IT: in the centre of town 48 THE PAINTED BUSES If you’re a pedestrian or a driver, a quick look at one of the hundreds of beautifully decorated buses is enough to brighten your day. Filled with humour, irreverence, kitsch and spirituality, many of these buses are painted by NISHAL RAMDHIN. A pioneer of automotive brush art, his mobile art is seen all over Durban. This love of customisation is also evident in the designs of the city’s countless taxis. CHRISTIAN MUGNAI is an artist, designer and illustrator SEE IT: on the streets of Durban whose work is strongly influenced by the cultural and visual diversity of eThekwini and expressed in a graphic language with universal appeal. Says Mugnai, “I feel the real purpose of my art is to share with the world a little of what inspires me in everyday life here in Durban.”

www.flickr.com/photos/mugnaiart

HAND-PAINTED SIGNAGE is something that is disappearing in this age of digital reproduction. But it survives in small pockets of Durban, and ironically, has once again become popular with local graphic designers. SLIM does the signage for Johnny’s Chip Inn Ranch whose ‘specials’ boards are cult items and have even made it into local art galleries.

SEE IT: at Johnnys in Sparks Road, Overport 49 NOBELUNGU NGCOBO is a traditional beadworker who is gradually making a transition to artist and businesswoman. Ngcobo heads the Gcina Co- operative with the support of the Municipality’s Inanda/KwaMashu/Ntuzuma area-based management programme. Although her core MR WALKER Browse through a few international business is jewellery based on Zulu designs, she has started design journals and you’ll often come across the to produce more pictorially based work, including a number name GARTH WALKER. Walker is a world class of soccer-based designs to cater for the World Cup. design authority who previously headed Orange SEE IT: at the annual SMME Business Fair Juice Design and whose new agency MR WALKER continues to reflect the graphic polyphony of Durban’s visually rich streets in a single vision. www.misterwalkerdesign.com

NOKWAKHA KHOBA is one of the many SEAMSTRESSES whose African-style dresses are sold on the streets of Durban, and which form an integral part of the domestic fashion cycle. These dresses, made in African fabric, reflect the Victorian styles of European colonialists. At the same time they inform contemporary fashion and are, in turn, influenced by it.

SEE IT: Dr Goonam Street, City Centre 50 EGG DESIGNS is an interior and product design company headed by GREG CLINTON NAIDOO & MARKLYN GOVENDER are and ROCHÉ DRY. Egg have designed interiors and furniture for an array of master MEHNDI artists. Using henna paste, delicate local clients, as well as lighting their gorgeously idiosyncratic fires around the patterns are painted on the hands and feet. While world. Having won acclaim at international mehndi has a design shows, they now supply their special place at product ranges to New York, Hong Kong and Indian weddings, it beyond, as well as catering to the local market. is also worn as www.eggdesigns.co.za virtual jewellery.

Making local, selling global The rise of globalism has meant that the market for local craft and design has radically increased. While global trade isn’t always mutually beneficial, for talented local crafters and entrepreneurs it’s a win-win situation.

RICHARD STRETTON produces high-end, hand-crafted objects as diverse as beds, buildings and breadboards. And while his pared down designs might have more than a little Zen about them, they are forged in an aesthetic and culture of functionality that is essentially African. Stretton’s work includes the new MOYO restaurant on the end of a newly built pier. www.koopdesign.co.za 51 DISTURBANCE are an independent design agency and masters of their craft. With RICHARD HART, ROGER JARDINE and SUZIE HART at the helm, the team produces award-winning, illustration-rich work. Their most memorable output includes their campaigns for the Durban International Film Festival, and Sheet, a legendary RAJEEN RAMDUTH is one of the TAILORS OF Durban fanzine. The work that is shown here are three GREY STREET who are famous in South Africa for of a series of CITY GUIDE fold-out maps that disturbance their skills in suit-making. Many clothing produced for the eThekwini Municipality. connoisseurs choose the tailors of the Indian www.disturbance.co.za quarter over well-known designers while their skills are often used by designers themselves, when precision tailoring is required.

SEE IT: in Yusuf Dadoo Street

NANDA SOOBBEN is one of Durban’s most unsung talents. A gifted artist and graphic designer, he is one of South Africa’s leading political cartoonists. In addition, he is opening doors for young new South African design talent with his Centre for Fine Art, Animation and Design. Soobben recently received an Honourary Doctorate from Rhodes University. www.cfad.co.za 52 Design & Advertising

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Ogilvy Durban Disturbance Design Ellison Printing Company 76 Mahatma Ghandi Road 22 Prains Avenue 124 Sandile Thusi Road Durban Berea Morningside 031 334 5600 031 202 0052 031 312 4236

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The Hardy Boys Koop Design ACME Printing Works 10 Hippo Park Ave 200 Montpelier Road 435 Umgeni Road River Horse Valley East Morningside Durban 031 533 9000 031 303 3922 031 309 8255 I HEART MARKET is a roving market which showcases a variety of local Flagship Communications Artworks Communications Aim Print designers and crafters, many of whom 20 - 26 Hurst Grove 30 Steel Rd 9 Beechfield Crescent Musgrave Morningside Springfield Park are riding the 21st century trend of hand- 031 202 8401 031 303 6466 031 579 5577 work and customised design. With great coffee and a selection of mouthwatering O’Donoghue & Associates The Fire Tree Design Universal Print Group Advertising Company 72 Stanhope Place home-made foods available, this market 641 Peter Mokaba Road Westway Office Park Briardene is also something of a social occasion. Berea Westville 031 560 2100 031 208 6166 031 265 0050 www.iheartmarket.blogspot.com

The Durban Station in Umgeni Road is home to a wealth of beautifully designed indigenous objects, including an ever evolving catalogue of shoe designs, ingeniously constructed from unlikely offcuts and waste material. The shoes you see here are made mostly from recycled tyres and tyre offcuts.

53 WRITING

DURBAN HAS A RICH LITERARY HISTORY which has contributed greatly to the cultural and intellectual life of South Africa. From the relentless activism and intellectual rigour of Dennis Brutus’ writing to the fervent cry for awareness, compassion and equality that is at the heart of Gcina Mhlophe’s work, the literature of Durban is one of the most complete records of the culture of protest and activism that is an essential element of Durban’s broader landscape. DENNIS BRUTUS was one of Africa’s most influential poets, as well Of course, Durban is also a land of fantasy and as an activist, educator and journalist. The driving force behind the apartheid sports boycott, he was imprisoned on for 16 imagination, nostalgia and memory, and the works months in the cell next to . Brutus spent most of his of younger writers such as Bridget McNulty whose life fighting inequity, both during apartheid and after the liberation magical realism has exploded on the web and John of South Africa. In 2008, he was awarded a Lifetime Honourary Award van der Ruit who has enjoyed enormous success by the Department of Arts and Culture. Brutus died in 2009. with the Spud series, show that well-told stories Read: Sirens, Knuckles and Boots, Poetry & Protest that capture the popular imagination will always find their readers.

JOHN VAN DE RUIT made literary history in South Africa with the runaway success of his novel Spud, forever dispelling the notion that local novels can’t compete with block- buster imports such as JK Rowling. With sales of the first book moving towards two hundred thousand copies, two sequels and a movie starring John Cleese, the modest Van de Ruit, who is also an actor, has much to smile about. Read: Spud, Learning to Fly, The Madness Continues 54 writes novels that span the globe, much like the life of the writer himself. Coovadia has lived in London, Melbourne, Boston and New York – but always holds Durban in his heart. Coovadia recently won the 2010 University of Johannesburg Prize for Creative Writing in English for his latest novel High Low In-between. He is currently working on a new novel, Witchcraft, set in Durban, which focuses on the HIV/AIDS epidemic in South Africa. Read: The Wedding, Green Eyed Thieves, High Low In-between TIME OF THE WRITER is an annual international festival of writing which is presented by the University of KwaZulu-Natal’s Centre for Creative Arts. Every year, more than 20 writers from around the world are involved in a variety of readings, presentations, panel discussions and debates, giving audience members a rare public glimpse of the inner world of writing. www.cca.ukzn.ac.za/totw

GCINA MHLOPHE is one of Durban’s most iconic literary talents. A gifted performer and writer, there is something in Mhlophe that is quintessentially eThekwini; in her hardness and softness and in the fervour and honesty with which she expresses herself. Mhlophe’s breakthrough work Have You Seen Zandile put her on an award-winning career path that is intimately linked to the people and landscape of KZN. Read: Love Child, Have You Seen Zandile? 55 BRIDGET MCNULTY is the perfect example of a new generation of writers whose printed matter works in tandem with digital media such as blogging and tweeting. McNulty didn’t have a hard time persuading Penguin to publish her magical debut novel, but she ensured its success and established herself as a strong South African voice through an ongoing digital media campaign. She was recently diagnosed with diabetes, and has earned additional acclaim for her writing on the subject. Read: Strange Nervous Laughter is a week-long celebration of poetry hosted by the University of KwaZulu-Natal’s Centre for Creative Arts. A sister event to Time of the Writer, the Ike’s Bookstore in Greyville is central to the literary history of Durban. festival features poets from all over the world participating Started by the late Ike Mayet, a celebrated local activist, Ike’s is a book store in an array of readings, panel discussions and workshops. in the classic mould, with a strong collection of Africana and first editions. www.cca.ukzn.ac.za/poetryafrica

KZN Literary Tourism started life as a National Research Foundation project at the University of KwaZulu-Natal and has since grown to become the main documenter of literary heritage in the province. The organisation relies on strategic partnerships with the eThekwini Municipality, sponsorship from business and grants from the National Arts Council to produce a series of writers trails, along with accompanying physical and online documents. KZN Writers Trails include Paton’s Pietermaritzburg, the Grey Street Writers Trail, the Cato Manor Writers Trail and, most recently, the Midlands Writers Trail, which has just been launched.

56 City Paper eThekwini Municipality publishes the newspaper Ezasegagasini Book Stores Metro every two weeks as a means of engaging directly with the residents Exclusive Books Books & Books ABC Bookshop Msasa Books and ratepayers of eThekwini. In Shop 339/340 Shop 42 Gateway Shopping Shop 22 Village addition to providing news about Pavilion Shopping Kensington Square Centre Centre significant municipal events and their Centre, Westville Durban North Umhlanga Ridge Hillcrest impact on people’s lives, the publication +27 31 265 0454 +27 31 563 6288 +27 31 566 2762 +27 31 765 4946 also serves as a space to publish Last Chance Books Cum Books Premier Book Great Books tenders and other documents that are 134 Shop 201a, Pavilion Bazaar 14 Granada Centre legally required to be published. Road, Glenwood Shopping Centre 149 Umhlanga Rocks +27 31 202 8931 Westville Street, City Centre +27 83 321 7872 +27 31 265 0881 +27 31 306 2914

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Ike’s Books & Book Base Coniston Books Sherwood Books Collectables 275 Florida Road 111 Helen Joseph 1 Derby Place 48a Florida Road Morningside Road, Glenwood Westville Morningside +27 31 312 3555 +27 31 202 1228 +27 31 266 9830 +27 31 303 9214

KOBUS MOOLMAN is one of Durban’s most acclaimed poets and playwrights. His writing is clear and precise with a remarkable emotional power that doesn’t pander to sentiment. Moolman won the 2001 Ingrid Jonker prize for his debut poetry collection Time Like Stone and has gone on to win several other awards, including a Pansa Jury Prize for Best Script for his play Full Circle, which premiered in 2005 at Grahamstown. Currently teaching at the University of KwaZulu- Natal, Moolman is also a respected and sensitive literary critic. Read: Full Circle, Time Like Stone, Light and After 57 ART

IN THE LAST HALF DECADE SOUTH AFRICAN ARTISTS have arrived squarely on the international art scene, with local artists fetching record prices and showing their work around the world. Many of the country’s leading artists hail from Durban, and the city’s role as a nurturer of talent contributes greatly to the creative life of South Africa. A tour of Durban’s galleries will expose you to an eclectic range of creative output that is often very close to the edges of contemporary fine art. From the baroque beauty of the Durban Art Gallery to the contemporary spaces of ANDREW VERSTER is one of South Africa’s foremost artists, the KZNSA and ArtSpace Durban, the works on show will highly regarded for his drawings, prints and paintings. His work has always expressed the lush and tropical atmosphere of Durban, expand your experience of Durban in many wonderful from its vegetation to its beaches and surfers. ways. Additionally, restaurants in the city showcase the Having risen to fame in the ’60s, Verster continues work of local artists, while crafters and artists from Southern to produce work at a prodigious rate, and has Africa and beyond sell exquisite and often idiosyncratic recently expanded into wardrobe and set design. creations on the city’s visually rich streets. Barber Shop www.andrewverster.co.za art is ubiquitous on the pavements of eThekwini, while many of our buses and taxis have taken the Indian notion of decorating a vehicle to the airbrushed max.

THEMBA SHIBASE works within an overtly political context, exploring notions of the cultural self, always locating the individual experience within the larger political context. In this way his work questions concepts such as whiteness, blackness, Zuluness and maleness. In his deftly constructed paintings, he seems to reduce history to a series of endlessly revolving power figures. www.artslant.com 58 AMY-JO WINDT makes work that combines art-brutishness with an inverted exploration of identity and representation. Currently working in collage, video animation and installations, Windt's simple BRONWEN VAUGHAN-EVANS works mainly by painting distortion of perspective and proportion is tinged black gesso paint over white gesso and scratching away with a joyful menace. There is an inherent strangeness to reveal the surface beneath. From her first solo exhibition to her work that, combined with its pop sensibility, – a collection of 101 paintings that constitute the marks Windt's idiom as one that is entirely her own. polycultural reality of her life in Durban – Vaughan-Evans www.kznsagallery.co.za/archive_windt.htm has dramatically expanded her canvas, rendering lifesize portraits of her friends and intimates, as well as drawing on the small details of everyday life. www.vaughan-evans.co.za

DINEO BOPAPE represents a dissection of stories past and present, her own and those of others; stories belonging to objects and to people. For Bopape the private realm is a manifestation of what occurs in public. She is intrigued, she says, by the angst of the mundane, “the discomforts that we feel secretly in our socks and our sweaty palms”. www.seshee.blogspot.com 59 ANGELA BUCKLAND is an award-winning photographer whose artistic is a renowned photographer work deals with the supposedly ordinary, but which she consistently whose work celebrates the lives of black lesbian imbues with a certain magic. She rejects the term ‘documentary’ to women, in the process challenging the historic describe her approach to photography, suggesting portrayal of black female bodies. that her images are more about emotional resonance In a few short years, Muholi has had than hard objective facts. Buckland was the recipient a remarkable impact, both on the of the Daimler Chrysler Prize for Fine Art in 2004. art scene and the broader culture. www.angelabucklandphotography.com www.zanelemuholi.com

LANGA MAGWA works with traditional Zulu forms and materials, often twisting and re- narrating their conceptual and historical threads and playing with scale and marks of identity. At the same time, respect for his heritage and ancestry form an integral part of his work. Magwa’s work is found in many national collections. www.nu.ac.za/cca 60 VAUGHN SADIE ’s work has a remarkable depth and maturity, suggesting the work of an artist decades older. Filled with conceptual and visual jokes, his work is at the same time bathed in a yearning melancholy and informed by centuries of art history and theory. His DANNY NOVELA walks the streets of Durban pieces, which are always immacuately executed, often carrying his beautifully carved sculptures. His work have a pop accessibility to them, but even the simplest consists mostly of abstracted carvings of the poorer works contain densely compressed layers of meaning. people of Southern Africa. While there are other www.vaughnsadie.net wood artists who produce similar work, there are few who manage to imbue their creations with such a resonant feeling of life. Find Danny on Florida Road

DOUNG JAHANGEER engages with marginalised people and spaces in urban Durban. Rather than partipating in political condescension, Jahangeer finds a genuine and carefully considered aesthetic in the lives and architectures of the poor. Using discarded objects and his own magical visual style, he opens up doors between parallel worlds. Jahangeer won the comission for this public sculpture in the Ellis Park precinct in Johannesburg. www.dala.org.za 61 MICHAEL MACGARRY is concerned with the residues of colonialism and imperialism that continue to define artistic and social reality in Africa. His work deftly compares the construction of artistic forms and meaning in the ANDRIES BOTHA is an internationally acclaimed colonising West to those of the colonised countries. MacGarry, sculptor. While never abandoning specificity, Botha who currently works in Johannesburg, won the 2010 often goes for the big subjects, conceptually, and Standard Bank Young Artist Award for Fine Art, one of the physically. This is particularly the case with his current most prestigious accolades in the South African art world. body of work, which consists of an extended family www.alltheorynopractice.com of lifesize elephants. These remarkable pieces led to Botha launching the Human Elephant Foundation, which aims to influence social change through the power of imagination and creativity. www.andriesbotha.net

SIMMI DULLAY grew up in exile in Denmark and returned to South Africa at the beginning of the ’90s. That return was fraught with contradictions and Dullay’s art reflects the polycultural and often paradoxical strands that constitute her identity on a global stage, both in terms of how she sees herself and how she is constructed by others. Working in a range of media, Dullay’s work is informed by her highly personalised blend of politics and theory. www.simmidullay.com 62 Art in the City’s Public Buildings Complementing the collection of the Galleries Durban Art Gallery, the eThekwini Municipality has comissioned artworks Durban Art Gallery Artisan Tamasa Gallery Imbizo Gallery for the Moses Mabhida Stadium and the City Hall, 32 Anton 344 Florida Road 36 Overport Drive Lifestyle Centre Albert Luthuli International Convention Lembede Street Morningside Overport Ballito Centre. In this way, visitors to the city +27 31 311 2264/9 +27 31 312 4364 +27 31 207 1223 +27 32 946 1937 get an instant snapshot of the creative output of Durban and South Africa. ArtSpace Durban Fat Tuesday The Collective Alliance française 3 Millar Road 5 Bellevue Road 48b Florida Road 22 Sutton Cresent off Umgeni Road Kloof Greyville Morningside, Durban +27 31 312 0793 +27 31 717 2785 +27 31 303 4891 +27 31 312 9582

The KZNSA Gallery Gallery 415 Crouse Art Gallery Stepping Stone 166 Bulwer Road 415 Umgeni Rd 254 Lilian Ngoyi Road Studios/Art Room Glenwood Greyville Morningside 3 Chartwell Centre +27 31 277 1705 +27 31 309 6401 +27 31 312 2315 Chartwell Drive Umhlanga Rocks African Art Centre Kizo Art Gallery Elizabeth Gordon +27 31 561 6762 94 Florida Road Palm Boulevard 120 Florida Road Morningside Gateway, Umhlanga Greyville also: 258 Florida +27 31 312 3804/5 +27 31 566 4322 +27 31 303 8133 Road, Morningside +27 31 303 3193 The Bat Centre Phansi Museum DUT Art Gallery Small Craft Harbour, 500 Esther Roberts Durban University of also: Shop 12a off Margaret Mncadi Road Technology, Steve Maytime Centre, Avenue Glenwood Biko Campus Charles Way, Kloof +27 31 332 0451 +27 31 206 2889 +27 31 373 2207 +27 31 764 0222

THE DURBAN ART GALLERY ’s collection ranges from historical paintings to anonymous beadwork to the works of internationally recognised artists such as Andrew Verster and Trevor Makhoba. Under the curatorship of Jenny Stretton, who has been Acting Director for the last few years, exhibitions and acquisitions have reflected the rich multicultural life of South Africa, continuing the direction established by Carol Brown who left the gallery as director in 2006. Mduduzi Xakaza was appointed as Director of the Galllery in 2010 and looks set to continue the gallery’s history of engaging with eThekwini and its residents.

63 MUSIC

BOTH DURBAN AND KWAZULU-NATAL ARE REVERED by musicologists worldwide for the hot-bed of musical talent that resides here. Gardeners who service lush lawns and exotic flower-beds are seen strumming their guitars after work in a gently percussive fashion. On Saturday nights youths from all over the province gather outside the YMCA in Beatrice Street for the weekly isicathamiya competitions. People dance freely on the streets to ambient urban rhythms, and even a cappuccino- making waiter was seen rasping his milk-frother in time SHIYANI NGCOBO is one of KZN’s most well known maskanda to the techno music playing in the background. guitarists. Maskanda is a musical form indigenous to KZN which fuses traditional Nguni rhythms with the western Whether it’s something in the water, or something in guitar to create a haunting, almost trance-like sound. Like the air, Durban has a musical soil that is extremely rich, many maskanda guitarists, Ngcobo, who sadly died in 2011, and which supplies a great deal of musical talent to the sung along to his guitar – in a voice that was sometimes nation. Having contributed a variety of local musical plaintive, sometimes strident, but always movingly beautiful. forms to the national landscape, Durban is a vitally Album: Introducing Shiyani Ncgobo important cog in the South African music industry despite the fact that most of the musical wealth, both literal and metaphoric, ends up in Johannesburg.

BUSI MHLONGO died early in 2010, robbing South Africa of one of its most talented and loved performers. Blessed with an extraordinary voice that sinks deep under the earth and then rises to the stars, Mhlongo was the first woman to appropriate maskanda music and remains a hero to many young South African musicians. Commercial successs eluded Busi all her life despite massive critical recognition both locally and overseas, where every concert was a sell-out show. She was always aware that she could be living the high-life in Paris or New York, but chose to live in Durban simply because she couldn’t bear to live anywhere else. Album: Babhemu, Urban Zulu 64 THE SOUTH JERSEY POM-POMS hark back to a JOSEPH is one of eThekwini’s most famous musical exports time before rock and roll broke the dam of popular as the frontman for , the isicathimiya music. Conceptually based in the thirties and group that he began as a young man. With a handful of Grammy’s to forties, the Pom-Poms exude a certain innocence their name, the group’s performances are sought after all over the world, that is musical, stylistic and emotional. The songs which hasn’t affected the essential humility of Shabalala’s music. and influences are eclectic, but there is When the voices of Ladysmith come together, with Shabalala as their nonetheless a coherence that runs through their signature central instrument, you can hear the sound of heaven. performances that is perhaps expressed best in Album: Inala, Shaka Zulu, Raise Your Spirits Higher the image of an enigmatic siren on a smoky stage. Album: South Jersey Pom-Poms

RICHARD HASLOP is South Africa’s foremost music critic and an accomplished blues guitarist. He lives in the Durban suburb of Hillary and has a day job as a lawyer, but spends every other waking minute listening to music. Previously one of South Africa’s most respected radio DJs – on his SAFM show Fruits to Roots – Haslop now writes regularly for Audio Video magazine and the Perfect Sound Forever webzine, as well as playing with blues band Formerly Slim. His continued influence – and the reverence given to a positive review from him despite having virtually no presence in the national media – is one of the triumphs of the digital age. READ: Audio Video, Perfect Sound Forever 65 MADALA KUNENE is an extraordinary talent whose highly personalised take on the traditional Zulu maskanda guitar has earned him acclaim all over the world, although like many local musicians, he still struggles to make ends meet. When Kunene plays, time slows down and the noise of the world THE ARROWS produce a remarkably well-crafted seems to fade away. His trance-like rhythms, accompanied by a voice that blend of power pop and jazz-tinged rock performed is at once both frail and strong, make him one of Durban’s greatest treasures. with vitality and drive. Featuring the extraordinary Album: Kon’ko Man, Madamax, Bafo Bafo voice of the charismatic PAMELA DE MENEZE in tandem with CHRISTIE DESFONTAIN’s gripping rhythms, The Arrows are aiming for global success. And at this point it seems a likely outcome. Both members are Christians and they achieve the difficult feat of making music about their faith that doesn’t alienate non-believers. Album: Babhemu, Make Believe

CHRIS NTULI and his band THE DURBAN BLACK DRIFTERS carry the sound of KwaZulu-Natal’s isicathamiya around the province and around the world. With a sweet chorus of voices maintained under his watchful eye, these Black Drifters are respected stars of the local isicathamiya scene, even if they have yet to crack the mainstream success achieved by Ladysmith Black Mambazo. Album: Bafana Bafana 66 GUY BUTTERY uses unorthodox playing methods to bring forth sublime new sounds from his stringed instruments, transforming a single instrument into an array of sounds that could well come from an entire band. As well as the guitar, Buttery also plays the mandolin and sitar, and occasionally plays with other musicians. His unique style, combined with his songwriting skills, has earned him international critical acclaim. Album: When I Grow Up, Fox Hill Lane PHUZEKHEMISI has played a substantial role in bringing traditional Zulu music to an urban setting. Phuzekhemisi is the stage name of JOSEPH MNYANDU, and literally means ‘drink the medicine’. The charismatic performer is now a major commercial drawcard who has gained recognition elsewhere in Africa, as well as in Europe’s world music scene. Album: Amakhansela, Phans’ Imikhonto

CHRIS LETCHER is one of South Africa’s most critically lauded rock musicians. Beginning with legendary Durban band Urban Creep, Letcher subsequently established a musical partnership with fellow singer-songwriter Matthew van der Want with whom he produced three astounding albums. He presently heads a five-piece band that goes by the name of LETCHER. Album: Frieze, Harmonium 67 DOMINION This eight member Gospel outfit is the brainchild of South African gospel phenomenon, Joyous Celebration. Featuring Sibongiseni Mbhele, Sandile Cele, Xolani Mdlalose, Brenda Mtambo, Mahalia Buchanan, Mercy Mndlovu, Tebello Sukwene and Zodwa Mahlangu, all seasoned performers, their debut album I’ll Run to Him has been well-received both locally and in the United States. BLACK COFFEE , aka Durban-born Nkosinathi Maphumulo, Albums: I Will Run to You has been on the scene for over a decade but hit the big time with his interpretation of Hugh Masekela’s rambunctious jazz hit Stimela. Followed by a slew of international releases, including remixes of songs from the late Busi Mhlongo, Black Coffee is a glorious amalgam of digital beats and traditional South African music. Albums: Black Coffee

BIG NUZ take their name from the license plate (NUZ) of Umlazi, the Durban township from where Mandla Maphumulo (aka Mampintsha), Mzingisi Mkhwanazi (aka Danger) and Sibusiso Khomo (aka Mashesha) became one of the country’s most dramatic musical success stories. Dominating the charts and music award ceremonies, their widespread success culminated in a number of wins at the 2010 Sama Awards. Albums: Zozo, 2nd Round Knockout, Undisputed 68 DJ TIRA , aka Mthokosisi Khathi, is one of South Africa’s most popular DJs. Having started his career in his home town of Durban, he has a strong following both nationally and internationally and owns his own record label Afrocentric. Describing the music he plays as “up tempo with a heavy base line, chanting vocals and a tribal beat”, Tira has been credited as one of the creators of the Durban Sound which has taken the country’s dance floors by storm. NELI SHABALALA was the frontwoman for the female Hear him: on the compilation Durban’s Finest Vol. 2 isicathamiya group WOMEN OF MAMBAZO before her tragic death. The wife of , the driving force behind Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Neli’s voice combined with those of the group’s other members to form an angelic choir that explored the issues facing women in the province. Albums: Mamizolo

MARTIN MCHALE was the co-owner of 330, South Africa’s most legendary nightclub. The club closed its doors several years ago but, after holding parties in other spaces for a while, the team has regrouped at the highly successful ORIGIN nightclub where McHale continues his position as resident DJ. He is in inter-national demand as a DJ and has also formed the band RISE with local chanteuse Kerry Wood and guitarist Colin Peddie. Albums: Present with Rise 69 THE FATAARS are one of Durban’s most gifted musical families. STEVE and RICKY FATAAR were members of THE FLAMES, a South African band which made it into the international charts in the late ’60s, leading to FRUIT AND VEG are a ska-influenced punk-rock collaborations with groups such as the Beach Boys and the Rolling band fronted by the charismatic PURITY MKHIZE, Stones. Steve continues to perform in Durban, along with his daughter, who sings and roars her way through anthemic the golden-voiced TARA and his beatboxing son DAIN, under the name songs of self-assertion in a world of bland AVATAR, while RICKY continues to perform around the world. consumerism. They are a one- of-a-kind band, with Albums: Soul Fire!!, Burning Soul! a roster of solid songs, a derisive attitide towards conventions, a blistering stage presence and a fully expressed commitment to living life to the full. Album: Still in production. Look out for it.

NIBS VAN DER SPUY was for many years a staple on the Durban scene with the much loved instrumental band Landscape Prayers. In the wake of the Prayers’ breakup, Nibs branched out on his own with a selection of emotionally tender and musically immaculate solo albums, as well as collaborations with Barry van Zyl and the late Gito Baloi on the Hadeda project. Van Der Spuy’s output provides sincere spiritual sweetness for those who prefer honey to saccharine. Albums: A House Across the River, Beautiful Feet 70 Music Venues

Jazzy Rainbow Centre for Jazz Czar 93 Smiso Nkwanyana Road University of KZN 178 Florida Road Morningside Glenwood Morningside +27 31 303 8398 +27 31 260 3385 +27 31 312 8001

Rivets The Bat Deck KZN Philharmonic Orchestra Hilton Hotel Maritime Place 29 Acutt Street 12 Walnut Road Small Craft Harbour Durban +27 31 336 8142 +27 31 332 0451 +27 31 369 9477

Rainbow Jazz Club Cool Runnings Jackie Horner Pub 23 Stanfield Lane 49 Milne Street Cnr Clark & Esther Roberts Pinetown Durban City Road, Glenwood +27 31 702 9161 +27 31 368 5604 +27 31 202 9192

The Willowvale Hotel Unit 11 The Winston Pub 406 Umbilo Road 190 Stamford Hill Road 9 Clark Road Umbilo Morningside Umbilo +27 31 205 1291 +27 82 774 6528 +27 76 976 1002

Zulu Jazz Lounge Zacks Windemere Amsterdam Playhouse Complex Windemere Centre 142 Helen Joseph Road 231 Anton Lembede Street Morningside Glenwood +27 31 304 2373 +27 31 312 0755 +27 31 811 5449

Splashy Fen Zacks Wilson’s Wharf Burn Nightclub PO Box 4078 Boatman’s Road 16 Walls Avenue The Square 4021 Maydon Wharf Greyville +27 31 563 0824 +27 31 305 1677 +27 82 325 9746

The Rainbow in Pinetown is one of Durban’s most important music venues. Opened by Ben Pretorius in 1981, the venue was one of the very few places where people of different races could enjoy music together during apartheid. As such, it became an important space in which the collective culture of Durban and KZN could be appreciated by all. Three decades after first opening, it remains the most significant music venue in eThekwini today. Another important musical space is The Bat Centre, in Durban’s small craft harbour, which has hosted many of South Africa’s leading musicians, and was an important engine of creativity in Durban in the 1990s. After a period of dormancy, the venue has recently been reignited by Durban musician Philani Ngidi, and is once again providing a strong platform for the best of local music.

71 DANCE

ALL OVER THE WORLD, TO BE A DANCER is to submit to a life of sacrifice. Dancers never do it for the money, and nowhere is this more true than in Durban, where many of our dancers live close to poverty in the shacklands and RDP settlements surrounding Durban. Yet despite – and perhaps because of – the challenges dancers face, local dance companies regularly produce world-class work that, on occasion, challenges the very definition of dance. SIWELA SONKE DANCE THEATRE is headed by creative dynamo JAY Often working on the cutting edge of PATHER and populated with an extraordinary group of dancers including NTOMBI GASA and NELISWE RUSHUALANG. Siwela’s dancers are never contemporary practice, Durban dancers and subservient to their roles, embodying the very pulse of South African life choreographers are telling their own stories in in a dance language that is always shifting in its search for emotional a language that is constantly being rewritten truth in a sea of uncertainty. Often performing in urban settings rather and which is born from the collision between than on a stage, the company performs in cities all around the world. modernity and traditional western, african www.siwelasonke.co.za and eastern forms. It is a language which increasingly finds itself traversing the world, as Durban’s dancers find themselves on inter- national stages, from New York to Dakar.

NTSIKELELO ‘BOYZIE’ CEKWANA possesses a remarkable ability to communicate through his body, as well as a radical intelligence and rarified aesthetic, all of which have made him a dancer and choreographer of international acclaim. Cekwana has danced all over the world and heads the aptly named FLOATING OUTFIT PROJECT. Intended to be rootless and unaffiliated, the company includes Cekwana and his partnerwww.siwelasonke.co.za Désiré Davids as it’s only permanent members. 72 FLATFOOT DANCE COMPANY , named for the challenge it holds up to Western ideals of dance, is a contemporary company offering work that engages – in poignant and beautiful ways – with the emotional and political context in which we live. With dance lecturer LLIANE LOOTS as the driving force, and a troupe of talented and idiosyncratic dancers, Flatfoot produces socially aware and globally accessible JOMBA! DANCE FESTIVAL , hosted by the Centre for dance theatre with its roots planted firmly in Durban’s fertile soil. Creative Arts and headed by Lliane Loots is a ten-day international contemporary dance festival and conference that features the cream of South African dance companies, as well as respected dancers and choreographers from around the world with whom local dancers often collaborate. The festival also hosts dance workshops and technical collaborations. www.ukzn.ac.za/cca

NATESHWAR DANCE ACADEMY has 12 branches around KwaZulu-Natal. Every year, under the guidance of SMEETHA SINGH, the academy teaches the ancient art of Indian dance to hundreds of students who come together in spectacular annual productions. Although a bastion of classical Indian dance, the academy’s dancers often contribute to contemporary productions from other companies, in the spirit of collabo- rationwww.siwelasonke.co.za and diversity that defines Durban’s dance scene. 73 DESIRE DAVIDS is one of several Durban dancers who are taking South African dance to the world. She spent much of 2009 in France rehearsing for her performance in Vincent Mantsoe’s celebrated work San which had its South African debut in Grahamstown. She will continue her internationalist streak with tours of Europe. Well known to Durban MLU ZONDI won the 2010 Standard Bank Young audiences from her time spent at the Playhouse Dance company, Davids Artist of the Year Award for his idiosyncratic blend also performs with Boyzie Cekwana in his Floating Outfit Project. of dance and fine-art-as-performance. Like Siwela Sonke, Zondi’s work is as likely to appear in a gallery or public space as on a stage. Zondi came to work in the context of visual art because he felt that his brand of performance was not accepted in the contemporary dance world. The consequences of that decision continue to serve him well.

MUSA HLATSHWAYO is one of Durban’s fastest rising dance stars. Remarkably charismatic, this gifted dancer and choreographer is doing much to extend the language of contemporary dance. Currently working as a freelance artist as well as with his company MHAYISE PRODUCTIONS, Hlatoswayo has received much critical recognition and a number of awards, including the 2008/9 Dancelink award for best choreographer. As well as touring his work around the world, Hlatshwayo devotes much of his time to teaching, particularly at the development project Cato Manor Vibe. 74 Dancelink started with the aim of raising the profile of dance in the province. Several years later, Dance- link is an established part of South Africa’s dance network. As well as engaging in community work, the organisation also produces several performance projects annually, including the large-scale youth dance performance project Dance for Youth.

Outreach Programmes form an integral element of the dance scene in Durban. While these programmes help dance companies to give back to the communities that form the mostly invisible backbones of our society, they are also a rich source of future dance talent. Cato Manor Vibe is a sterling example of such programme. Founded by the seminal dance company Fantastic Flying Fish and mentored by some leading local talents, Cato Manor Vibe fosters the development of the self and communities while stressing the vital importance of education in uplifting the lives of its young and talented dancers.

DAVID GOULDIE is a stalwart of the Durban dance scene. Previously a member of the Playhouse Ballet Company and a founding member of the now sadly defunct Fantastic Flying Fish Dance Company, Gouldie now has his own company called Urban Edge Productions which creates corporate theatre, launches and brand activations. He is still strongly involved with choreo- graphy and has recently lent his skills to productions such as The Nutcracker and Chess, as well as helping to organise art-based events such as Naked and Red Eye. 75 THEATRE

UNDER THE OLD APARTHEID DISPENSATION, theatre attendance was racially delineated and black theatre thoroughly marginalised. At the same time theatre, both in white cities and black townships, was a major site of political protest and activism, producing a rich canon of protest theatre whose artistic accomplishments still resound. This is the twin legacy of theatre in Durban, and the challenge faced by Durban’s theatre community in the 21st century is to write and produce work EDMUND MHLONGO is a shining example of the fact that one person that engages with our past and our present, and can make a difference. An award-winning director, Mhlongo is the driving force behind the EKHAYA MULTI-ARTS CENTRE in KwaMashu, which is at the same time relevant to the broad spectrum he founded and continues to head. In a township rich with performing of the people who live in and around the city. talent but low on performance spaces, Mhlongo provides much needed It is a challenge that is still in the process of exposure for young dancers, musicians, actors and production being confronted by Durbanites, as a new staff and the chance for local audieinces to celebrate their culture. generation of young actors, directors and theatre SEEN HERE: Madame President lovers emerges. And while theatre in Durban has still to transcend the divisions created by apartheid, the possibilities for transcendent work remain, nurtured by the continuing contradictions of South African society.

CHANTAL SNYMAN is a theatre worker who interrogates and celebrates our local reality. A writer, director, storyteller, actor and teacher, Snyman has added two key works Snapshots (1999) and Frank (2009) to the local canon, both of which she wrote and directed. She has appeared on stage in a wide range of performances and in recent years has started working with both puppets and professional soccer players in order to provide accessible education around HIV and Aids. 76 , progenitor of the legendary Sarafina productions, singer, director and general creative talent, is one of Durban’s most prolific artists. A champion of local narrative, he has achieved mainstream success with his epic stage productions as well as with his recorded output, musicals, television shows and films. He is also a talented and hugely successful songwriter, his oeuvre NEIL COPPEN is one of South Africa’s most gifted ranging from jazz to gospel to R&B, from marabi to . theatre talents and a frequent contributor to Durban’s SEEN HERE: Lion of the East broader art scene. Acclaimed for his acting skills from a young age, Coppen has subsequently established a solid career for himself as a writer, playwright and director, with his plays The Tin Bucket and Tree Boy garnering much critical acclaim around the country and beyond. Coppen was recently awarded the 2011 Standard Bank Young Artist of the Year Award for Theatre. SEEN HERE: The Tin Bucket

KICKSTART , run by GREG KING and STEVEN STEAD, is an independent professional theatre company which regularly stages world-class productions in Durban. The company’s primary objective is to produce the best of internationally recognised drama. However, just as important is the creation of top-quality children’s theatre, staged with the intention of fostering a love of the theatre among young people. SEEN HERE: The Wizard of Oz 77 JERRY POOE is a well-known force in Durban theatre circles as a writer, director and playwright. As CEO of his company EAGER ARTISTS, Pooe’s work provides a bridge between the past and the present, in the process attempting to forge a new African theatre. Pooe is also involved in artistic projects in rural GAIL SNYMAN began her theatrical career in 1994, after communities and has facilitated various projects, including Aids having raised her family, and has subsequently become a Awareness education and training youths in theatre skills. key figure in Durban’s theatre scene. Her debut work, the SEEN HERE: autobiographical one-woman show, Tears in My Navy Blue Eyes, received critical acclaim and toured internationally, while Sasol Fever is centred around the dislocated family lives of refinery workers. More recently she has written an anti-litter play for children which will be animated by the Centre for Fine Art, Animation and Design.

ILLA THOMPSON is an ubiquitous figure on the Durban creative scene, bringing support to artists and performers above and beyond the call of duty. Although her main area of interest is theatre, Thompson is seen at virtually every art- oriented event and she frequently falls into the role of arts activist. She is also involved with the Performing Arts Network of South Africa. Together with her company PUBLICITY MATTERS, Thompson helps to keep theatre alive in Durban. SEEN HERE: Frontlines 78 Theatres

Elisabeth Sneddon Square Space Rhumbelow Theatre Courtyard Theatre Theatre Theatre Cunningham Road Durban University of University of KZN University of KZN (off Bartle Road) Technology 238 238 Mazisi Kunene Umbilo Ritson Campus Road Road +27 31 205 7602 Road +27 31 260 2296 +27 31 260 3133 +27 82 499 8636 +27 31 373 2194

Barnyard Theatre Ekhaya Multi Arts Open Air Theatre Asoka Theatre Gateway Theatre of Centre University of KZN University of KZN Shopping B25 Giya Rd 238 Mazisi Kunene Westville Campus Umhlanga Kwa-Mashu Road Essex Terrace +27 31 566 3045 +27 31 504 6970 +27 31 260 3133 +27 31 204 4111

Catalina Theatre Heritage Theatre The Playhouse iZulu Theatre 18 Boatman’s Road 9 Old Main Road 231 Anton Lembede Sibaya Casino Maydon Wharf Hillcrest Street, City Centre Umhlanga Rocks +27 31 305 6889 +27 31 765 4197 +27 31 369 9555 Tel: +27 31 580 5000

Stable Theatre Open-Air Theatre SuperNova Theatre Seabrooke Theatre Cnr Joseph Nduli Botanic Gardens Suncoast Casino Street & Alice Street 70 St Thomas Road Suncoast Boulevard St Thomas Road CLAIRE MORTIMER is one of City Centre Musgrave Marine Parade Musgrave Durban’s most accomplished actors, +27 31 309 2513 +27 31 309 1170 +27 31 328 3333 +27 31 201 1638 as well as a talented director and playwright. Mortimer is superb in difficult roles such as the cancer- stricken Vivian in Wit, but also revels in lighter work in which she shows off her wickedly comedic streak. SEEN HERE IN: Wit

THEMI VENTURAS There are few people more committed and active in the theatre community than Venturas. An accomplished director who has been at the helm of many large-scale productions over the years, Venturas is also the man behind the CATALINA THEATRE on Wilson’s Wharf. The Catalina provides an intimate theatre experience in an accessible space, and has entertained theatre goers with such varied fare as The Man of La Mancha and Have You Seen Zandile? SEEN HERE: Man of La Mancha 79 FILM

ONLY IN THE LAST FEW YEARS HAS SOUTH Africa started to produce a substantial number of feature films. Now, under the banner of freedom, and with so many stories to tell, local cinema is quickly growing up and beginning to make world- class contributions to global cinema, such as Darryl Roodt’s Yesterday. Filmed in KwaZulu-Natal it was the world’s first Zulu language feature film and garnered an Oscar nomination, preceding the win by the more Hollywood-oriented Tsotsi. With its JUNAID AHMED of FINELINE PRODUCTIONS specialises in affordable labour and infrastructure, an incredibly documentary work that explores marginalised communities. Fineline’s films are frequently screened on national television and diverse variety of locations, and astoundingly good syndicated for broadcast around the world. After the award- weather, Durban is becoming increasingly popular winning Lucky, which looks at the relationship between an Aids with international directors and producers, with orphan and a racist Indian woman, comes STOCKHOLM, plans for film studios currently underway. ZULULAND, a cross-cutural romantic comedy with a wicked twist. At the same time the local film culture is getting Watch: Lucky, Trancing in Dreamtime, Stockholm Zululand stronger, with an increasing number of productions coming out of Durban, aided in no small part by Video Mogul is a DVD rental store in Musgrave that has had a significiant impact on the work of the Durban International Film Festival local film culture. By introducing an extensive selection of world cinema and older and and the Durban Film Office. more obscure films, the store has helped to grow a culture of cinema in eThekwini, in the process encouraging a new young breed of Durban filmmakers. +27 31 202 1520.

The Durban Filmmart A joint programme of the Durban International Film Festival and the Durban Film Office, the Durban FilmMart is an annual co-production market which links filmmakers from Africa with funders and producers. The FilmMart includes a Finance Forum, which provides an opportunity for selected African filmmakers to pitch their projects to potential investors on a one-to-one basis, and a four-day specialised workshop programme for producers focusing on pitching and packaging films. The DFM provides an opportunity for international net- working and making the case for the support and development of African film.

80 MASOOD BOOMGARD is a talented local writer and filmmaker. With a regular column in the Sunday Tribune and a popular blog, his following will no doubt swell with the release of ATTACK OF THE INDIAN WEREWOLF, a cheerfully irreverant Durban flavoured spoof on the werewolf genre. The film features local DJ and comedian Neville Pillay as a timid, hardworking store clerk who has been overtaken by a werewolf demon, and includes a cameo from eThekwini’s Municipality’s Speaker Logie Naidoo. Watch: Attack of the Indian Werewolf THE DURBAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL is South Africa’s only international film festival. Started by city councillor Ros Sarkin in 1979, the festival is now run by the University of KZN’s Centre for Creative Arts. Under the directorship of NASHEN MOODLEY, the DIFF has expanded beyond the university, taking its exciting selection of world cinema to theatres all over the city. www.cca.ukzn.ac.za/diff

CLAIRE ANGELIQUE BEZUIDENHOUT is not short of ambition. Armed with the script for her film MY LITTLE BLACK HEART she approached Danish superdirector Lars von Triers and his production company Zentropa Films. Von Triers was sufficiently impressed to take on the project and provide his own cinematographer. The film subsequently won Bezuidenhout the 2010 Standard Bank Young Artist of the Year Award For Film. Watch: My Little Black Heart 81 ANANT SINGH , with his company VIDEOVISION, is a key player in the South African film industry. Both a production house and an international distribution company, Videovision is responsible for the block-busting exploits of Leon Schuster’s MR BONES, as well as for seminal South African films such as The Stick and Sarafina. The company has produced more than 100 films, including the Oscar-nominated Yesterday, the Zulu-language feature film which gives a face to the Aids pandemic in South Africa. Watch: The Stick, Yesterday, Faith’s Corner, Mr Bones THE DURBAN FILM OFFICE is the official advocate for Durban’s film industry. A special-purpose vehicle of the Municipality, the DFO combines film related activities in Durban under an autonomous organisation which aims to position Durban as a globally competitive film city. The DFO is a facilitating partner in the DURBAN FILMMART. WATCH: Izulu Lami, Racing Stripes

NASHEN MOODLEY is Durban’s foremost film critic, as well as the manager of the Durban International Film Festival. A writer of great depth and insight, Moodley’s reviews appear in the Sunday Tribune’s SM Mag. It is his job as director of the festival, however, that takes up the bulk of his time. As well as an unflinching dedication to film, the position also requires extraordinary diplomatic abilities, which Moodley puts to good use as director of the Africa-Asia leg of the International Film Festival. Watch: At the Durban International Film Festival 82 The Grey Street Cinemas are significant in the cultural history of Production Companies Durban because they were one of the very few places in apartheid South Geoff Theys Videovision Fine Line Productions Cane Productions Africa where black people could 65 Rockdale Avenue 134 Stephen Dlamini PO Box 30210 120 Marianhill Road access cinema. In the early days of Westville Road, Berea Mayville Ashley silent movies, two cinemas – the +27 31 266 0339 +27 31 204 6000 +27 31 261 1154 +27 31 700 4434 Victoria and the African Theatre Patrick MgGhee Vuleka Productions Tekweni TV Go-Boy Company – operated in the Grey Street 35 Intersite Avenue Mazisi Kunene Road 1 Glenroy Road 13 Saint Hillier Road area. They were soon joined by the Springfield Park Glenwood Manor Gardens Hillcrest Indian-owned cinema nicknamed +27 31 263 0182 +27 31 261 9650 +27 31 261 1034 +27 31 767 2700 Rawat’s Bio, and in 1940 the Moosa Reeltime Forecast Casting Collective Film & Video Halo Media family opened the Avalon Cinema. 15a Burlington Drive 33 Overport Drive 236 Lambert Road 12 Knoll Road The Avalon was the first venue to Westville Overport Morningside Westville host the Durban International Film +27 31 266 0353 +27 31 209 9617 +27 31 303 9727 +27 31 266 2309 Festival in 1979. More than three decades later, the Avalon group now Rhubarb Productions DT Video BLM Productions DIFF 7 Sinembe Crescent 5 Nunhead Road 241 Florida Road Centre for Creative Arts has its flagship theatres at Suncoast Ridge Manor Gardens Morningside University of KZN Casino, and once more plays host to +27 31 566 5749 +27 31 261 6961 +27 83 232 1758 +27 31 260 2506 the Film Festival as the premiere venue for the annual event. Until SB Productions Durban Motion Pictures Stargate Durban Film Office recently, a single cinema remained Augusta Country Estate 5 Walnut Road 42 Queen Elizabeth Drive 11th Flr, Rennies House Hillcrest Durban Westville 41 Victoria Embankment in the Indian Quarter. The Shiraz, +27 31 764 3020 +27 31 307 1988 +27 31 266 6230 +27 31 266 2309 which opened its doors in 1968, and moved to its final location in the 1980s,closed in 2010, and with it, the last cinema in eThekwini that was not located in a shopping mall.

MADODA NCAYIYANA and JULIE FREDERICKSE of VULEKA PRODUCTIONS are the director and screenwriter respectively behind the award-winning film Izulu Lami which tells the story of Thembi, a young rural girl who heads for the city in the wake of her mother’s death. Sobahle Mkhabase, the young actress who plays Thembi, will also feature in Vuleka’s next production, a comedy drama called Mobile Muti. WATCH: The Sky in Her Eyes, Izulu Lami 83 MUSEUMS

DURBAN’S MUSEUMS ARE A VITAL LINK TO THE PAST, both that of the city and of South Africa itself, and are a useful tool for visitors wanting to understand our history. For it is in eThekwini that the ‘Durban System’ of racial segregation was invented, and while it is something that many would rather forget, the vignettes of a life dominated by the Native Affairs Department, as chronicled in the Kwa Muhle Museum, are an important part of the city’s history. Meanwhile, at the Natural Science Museum, we can glimpse the world of prehistory and explore a series of THE DURBAN NATURAL SCIENCE MUSEUM is a museum gorgeous dioramas detailing the region’s zoological diversity, about the earth, its history, and its life forms, both past and present. The museum, which has just been beautifully renovated and in Durban’s Old Court House Museum we get a sense and had its dioramas restored, houses informative and of the 19th century colonialism which has left a large educational displays of mammals, birds, reptiles and fish. As footprint on the physical structure and collective culture of well as being a window into our local prehistory, there is even our city. In helping us to understand our past we can move an Egyptian mummy and a lifesize replica of a tyrannosaurus. into the future with clarity and hope, engendered by the http://www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/nsm fact that our history has, in the long term, been a consistent but gradual move towards freedom and a common humanity.

THE OLD HOUSE MUSEUM in St Andrew’s Street is a replica of the original Robinson home built in 1850. It first belonged to George Robinson (founding editor of the Mercury newspaper) and then to his son Sir John Robinson, the first Prime Minister of Natal during the 1890s. It was reconstructed by the city council after World War II and now houses a collection of furniture and artifacts from the 19th and early 20th centuries. www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_history/oldhouse 84 THE KWA MUHLE MUSEUM Once the office of the Native Affairs THE CAMPBELL COLLECTION , which includes Department, this museum now displays examples of the oppressive the Killie Campbell Africana Library, the William administration of the black population of Durban under apartheid. Corridors Campbell Picture Collection and the Mashu once trodden by apartheid policy makers are now filled with school Museum of Ethnology, is an internationally children learning about a past that we must never forget. But while the renowned and unique collection of rare archival museum is a window into a dark past, it is also a beacon of hope in the resources. The Campbell Collection is primarily form of exhibitions which look towards a brighter, collective future. known as a centre for high quality research, www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_history/kwamuhle attracting post-graduate and established researchers in the fields of social science and the humanities from all over the world. Nonetheless, the broad display of historic and cultural artifacts provides an enriching experience for anyone with even the vaguest interest in the history of the area. Visitors to the museum need to book in advance.

http://www.campbell.ukzn.ac.za

THE MARITIME MUSEUM harks back to a time when shipping was more about the sea and less about logistics. Located on the edge of the port closest to the city centre and backed by a panoramic view, the museum has an inspiring collection of vessels and nautical artifacts, as well as a freshly renovated in-door museum.

www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_history/portnatal 85 THE OLD COURT HOUSE is Durban’s oldest surviving public building. Erected in 1863 as a Courthouse and Post Office, it has borne witness to much of the city’s history. The building was converted into a local history museum in 1940 and has two floors of exhibition space depicting aspects of Durban’s early history, including a fine collection of period costumes, maps, documentation and photographs. Research facilities THE PHANSI MUSEUM is a private museum which are available for those seeking a more in-depth perspective. houses one of the biggest and most spectacular www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_history/courthouse collections of African arts and crafts in the world. The collection is held in Roberts House, a fully restored Victorian national monument, in Glenwood. Three floors of the Victorian mansion are packed with Zulu beadwork, earplugs, wire baskets, milk-pails, beer-pots and fertility dolls, Ndebele blankets and ceremonial items, and artifacts from the Eastern Cape, Namibia and Kenya. www.phansi.com

THE CATO MANOR HERITAGE CENTRE Once the site of forced removals, Cato Manor is an area of great significance to the history of Durban. The centre chronicles the fascinating history of the area, linking the stories of past and present Cato Manor to the broader history of South Africa. www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_history/catomanor 86 Museums in Durban

The Durban Natural Science Museum Durban Holocaust Centre First Floor, City Hall, Anton Lembede Street 44 K.E. Masinga Road +27 31 311 2256/2241 +27 31 368 6833

The Old House Museum Port Natal Maritime Museum 31 Diaconia Street Maritime Place, Small Craft Harbour City Centre City Centre +27 31 311 2261 +27 31 311 3216

The Killie Campbell Africana Library Ammazulu African Palace 220 Gladys Mazibuko Road 20 Windsor Road, Kloof +27 31 260 1720 +27 31 206 2889

The Kwa Muhle Museum Geology Education Museum 130 Bram Fischer Road Science 1 Building, University Road, City Centre University of KZN Durban-Westville +27 31 311 2237 +27 31 260 2524

The Cato Manor Heritage Centre Inanda Seminary Intuthuko Junction, 750 Rick Turner Road, Cato M-25 (KwaMashu Highway) Manor Emachobeni, Inanda Mission 4310 +27 31 261 3216 +27 31 510 1011

The Old Court House Warriors Gate Moth Shrine & Museum The Durban System was the first 99 Samora Machel Street 1 NMR Avenue, Durban incarnation of urban racial segrega- City Centre (opposite Sahara Kingsmead Cricket Stadium) tion. The purpose of the system was +27 31 311 2226/7 +27 31 307 3337 to control and monitor the movements of the African migrant population. The Phansi Museum Natural Science Museum Research Centre 500 Esther Roberts Road 151 KE Masinga Road To finance the Durban System, the Glenwood City Centre Native Beer Act was passed in 1908, +27 31 206 2889 +27 31 322 4210/2 giving in Natal the sole right to brew and sell beer within Bergtheil Museum 16 Queens Avenue Local History Museums Research and their boundaries. The Durban Westville Enquiries Service The Local History Museums Municipality began to brew its own +72 31 2037 107 provide an enquiry service for researchers, beer, selling it through a network of students and members of the public at the beerhalls which it established. The Pinetown Museum Old Court House Museum. For those interested first municipal beer-hall opened in Corner of Joosiah Gumede and Crompton in finding out more about our history, the Street, Pinetown enquiry section is open between 8.30am and 1909 and soon the system was +27 31 311 6343 3.30pm weekdays. Staff members will make reaping huge profits. Nothing was every effort to assist you with information and allowed to threaten this situation J L Dube Interpretation Centre items from the archives. Due to the archival and every effort was made to stamp Ohlange Institute, Inanda, M-25 (kwaMashu nature of the collections, conditions associated out the illegal brewing and sale of Highway) with their use and reproduction are +27 72 503 3495 strictly controlled. Phone +27 31 311 2226/7. beer, including regular police raids. .

87 GETTING OUT

DURBAN HAS A GENEROUS SELECTION OF PUBLIC parks and gardens as well as an array of nature reserves, many of them located a short distance from the city centre. With a sub-tropical climate, more than 300 days of sunshine a year and a generous annual rainfall, the city is lush with vegetation and remains mostly green in Durban’s mild winter. The beautifully maintained Botanic Gardens, Mitchell Park and Jameson Park showcase this verdant heritage and also provide important green open spaces. , and the are all well PIGEON VALLEY is located near the city centre in the surburb maintained natural areas in residential areas that are of Bulwer and is readily accessible from Mazisi Kunene Road. This small park contains many large indigenous trees, including accessible to all, while Krantzkloof and Shongweni Nature the Natal Elm, and preserves something of the original coastal Reserves provide a window into the profound beauty of forest environment. A good birding site for forest birds the natural African landscape. in particular, the park includes short trails on both As well as providing beautiful destinations for the many sides of the valley, through which a small stream runs. tourists that visit the region, these parks and gardens are Phone +27 31 201 1303 integral to the quality of life of Durban’s residents. Aside from the broad ecological benefits of retaining, maintaining and developing green areas close to the city, they also provide important recreation spaces.

SHONGWENI RESOURCES RESERVE offers an authentic African experience. This 1700 hectare reserve includes an incredible diversity of vegetation and bird life, with its landscape encompassing cliffs, waterfalls, rivers, dams, open grassland and bushveld. Quality accommodation is available and, although only half an hour away from Durban, the reserve offers big game viewing as well as fishing, water spots and a variety of walks. Phone +27 31 760 1283 88 DURBAN’S BOTANIC GARDENS was established in 1849. The oldest such park in Africa, it includes a selection of well established trees and a small indigenous forest. The gardens are home to the rare cycad Encephalartos woodii and includes a lovingly maintained orchid house, an informative visitors centre and a charming coffee shop. Located on Durban’s Berea, with a pond and beautifully landscaped lawn at its centre, it’s the perfect place for a stress-free family outing. TREASURE BEACH offers a tiny, unspoilt slice of local Phone +27 31 322 4000 paradise. Located on Durban’s bluff, its mix of beach and coastal duneland is one of Durban’s best kept secrets. Marine life is plentiful in the lovely rock pools and its banks offer unparalleled views of the . Group accommodation is available, as well as day and night walks along the rocky, wavecut shore.

Phone +27 31 467 8507

KRANTZKLOOF NATURE RESERVE offers breath-taking views of the spectacular gorge system created by the Molweni and Nqudu Rivers. There are a number of marked self-guided walks available through this amazing natural landscape. The reserve includes many rare plants as well as frequent close- up sightings of eagles and falcons. Braai facilities are available, as well as guided walks and guided birding and game viewing. Phone +27 31 764 3515 89 THE HAWAAN FOREST NATURE RESERVE is a 110 hectare stretch of MITCHELL PARK & JAMESON PARK are located forest in the middle of residential Umhlanga that has survived the at the top of Florida Road. With its majestic process of urbanisation. The reserve is a beautiful example of coastal trees and beautifully manicured flower beds, lowland forest that includes many rare trees as well as a number of Mitchell Park is a popular spot for family outings. small indigenous animals such as bushbuck, bushpig, duiker, mongoose Across the road is Jameson Park, which is home and guinea fowl. Facilities include a picnic area, guided walks, to a mass of beautifully maintained rose bushes birding and game viewing. If you’d like a guide, you need to book ahead. and which provides a wonderful view of the city.

Phone +27 31 201 3126/+27 (0) 31 572 6218 Phone +27 31 303 2275

Green Space Many of Durban’s open spaces fall within the Durban Metropolitan Open Space System, which links 2100 hectares of of open space, including nine parks, river valleys and coastal land, and is administered by the Parks Department.

PALMIET NATURE RESERVE has a diversity of birds and plants living among its gentle waterways, grasslands and cliffs. With a small area of Saligna woodland, the reserve is a lovely spot to while away an afternoon and learn more about local fauna at the Interpretive Centre. The reserve is also an historic site and includes part of the original wagon route from Durban to Pietermaritzburg. Phone +27 31 203 7065 90 The Ethekwini Parks Department is responsible for the effective develop- Public Gardens ment and management of Durban’s parks, open spaces and natural areas in Public Gardens and Reserves Outdoor Events order to meet community needs. The core functions of the department are to Durban Botanic Krantzkloof Nature Shongweni Phezulu Safrai Park develop, maintain and control the city’s Gardens Reserve Resources Reserve 5 Old Main Road open spaces, its traffic islands and verges, 70 St Thomas Road Kloof Falls Road Shongweni Dam, Bothas Hill Musgrave Kloof Shongweni +27 31 777 1000/ 1464 suburban sports fields and surrounds, +27 31 322 4000 +27 31 764 3515 +27 31 769 1283 as well as growing and maintaining roadside trees. Other responsibilities Burman Bush Nature Mitchell Park Bird Umgeni Steam include the development and upkeep of Reserve Cnr Innes & Ferndale Park Railway the city’s parks and gardens, its nurseries 101 Burman Drive Roads Riverside Road 66 Old Main Road Morningside Morningside Umgeni Kloof and plant production and the +27 31 312 4466 +27 31 303 2275 +27 31 579 4600 +27 31 303 3003 conservation of natural areas and nature reserves. The Department provides one Japanese Gardens Pigeon Valley Park Ampitheatre Gardens Amblers Hiking Club of the most vital services provided by Tinsley Road Princess Alice Avenue Snell Promenade 1 Acacia Avenue local councils. The development and Durban North Bulwer Durban beach front Westville +27 31 563 1333 +27 31 201 1303 +27 31 311 1111 +27 31 266 8602 maintenance of a park and open space system is a key factor that contributes Kenneth Stainbank Robert Jameson Silverglen Nature Mountain to quality of life in eThekwini. Scattered Nature Reserve Park Reserve Backpackers Club throughout the city are parks and 90 Coedmore Avenue 350 Montpelier Road Lakeview Drive +27 72 226 2772 recreational open spaces covering over Morningside Chatsworth +27 31 469 2807 +27 31 312 2318 +27 31 404 5628 Ramblers Hiking Club 6 000 hectares. Unfortunately, not all +27 31 765 5029 the residents of the city have equal access to recreational open space and to rectify this situation the Department is now also involved in the development of areas that previously fell outside the jurisdiction of the Municipality.

THE UMNGENI RIVER BIRD PARK is home to more than 400 different species of bird. With a strong emphasis on conservation and education, the park features birds from North and South America, Africa, Indonesia and Australia while the Cockatoo Café, situated in the heart of the bird park, provides visitors with delicious breakfasts and light lunches. In 2009 the eThekwini Municipality agreed to purchase the from its previous owners Tsogo Sun Gaming, rather than allow it to close down. Phone +27 31 579 4600 91 SPORT

AFTER THE SUCCESSFUL HOSTING OF several Fifa World Cup games, Durban’s reputation as a sporting city continues to grow, both in terms of the events hosted by the city and the wealth of sporting talent generated within eThekwini. This is no doubt related to Durban’s subtropical climate which allows avid sportsmen and women to practise their sport all year round, and which encourages a general outdoor culture and physical exercise. The warm Indian Ocean is the ideal setting THANDUYISE KHUBONI is a tough-tackling defensive midfielder who for Durban’s many water-sport enthusiasts and currently plies his trade for the Durban-based side Golden Arrows. He was included in the Bafana Bafana squad for the 2010 Fifa World Cup, Durban’s beaches are world-renowned for their waves. helping his team to a 2-1 win over France. Khuboni made his debut for Major sporting events such as horse racing’s Durban the Arrows in 2007 as a 20-year-old and has gone on to establish himself July and the continue to draw as a key member of the squad thanks to his superb ability to read the attention from all over the world. Soccer and rugby game. Many pundits believe he has only just begun to tap into his vast also play important roles in promoting the city, with potential and that the best is yet to come from this modest player. local games attracting crowds of over 50 000 people. Meanwhile the sports fields and parks of Durban are filled with friendly games, and groups meeting for a range of organised activities, from yoga to martial arts.

CLIVE BARKER ensured himself a place in the pantheon of South African football greats when, as manager, he led Bafana Bafana to the African Cup of Nations title in 1996. Barker is a born and bred Durbanite who, as well as his exploits on a national level, has managed a variety of Durban clubs. He led Durban City to two titles in the now defunct National Professional Soccer League and clinched the inaugural National Soccer League with Durban Bush Bucks. Barker is currently the head coach of the Durban side AmaZulu. 92 made cricketing history when he became the first South African of Indian descent to be picked for the national cricket team, the Proteas. Born in 1983, the elegant and wristy right hand batsman made his debut for KZN cricket team the while only SEWSUNKER ‘PAPWA’ SEWGOLUM was the first person 18 years old. His performances soon made him a favourite of the of colour to win a professional golf tournament in South Kingsmead crowd and it was only a matter of time before he achieved Africa. Apartheid prevented him from achieving his true higher honours. Amla, a devout Muslim, has also attracted praise for his place in golf ’s pantheon of greats, but he is nonetheless request to have logos promoting alcohol removed from his playing gear. recognised as one of the greatest players of all time. Despite the challenges, Sewgolum still managed to win three Dutch Opens in the 1960s, as well as two Natal Opens. The second victory resulted in an international outcry when Sewgolum was forced to accept his trophy outside in the rain, because the laws of the day prevented him from entering the club house. He died impoverished in 1978, of a heart attack, at the age of 48.

SHAUN THOMSON was part of the Free Ride generation which changed the face of surfing. Riding the infamous waves along Oahu’s legendary North Shore with a style, aggression, and courage previously unseen, they were the first riders to really apply themselves as professional surfers. With his looks, eloquence and athleticism, Thomson served as the face and voice of this movement, and is still viewed as the archetypal pro surfer. He won the IPS World Championship in 1977. 93 PENNY HEYNS is one of South Africa’s most successful swimming stars. She is the only woman in the history of the Olympic Games to have won both the 100m and 200m breaststroke events – at the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games – making her South Africa’s first post-apartheid Olympic gold medallist following the country’s re-admission to the Games in 1992. Heyns continued SIYABONGA SANGWENI was part of the South her swimming career and was asked to represent the USA in the Olympic African squad that competed in the 2010 Fifa World games but chose not to let her fellow South Africans down. As a sign of her Cup, although the imposing defender failed to make commitment, she sports a tattoo of the springbok on her shoulder. an appearance in the tournament. Sangweni is usually used in the centre of defence by his club Golden Arrows but is equally adept at playing at right back. A no-nonsense hard man, Sangweni made his debut for his country in 2007. As Bafana Bafana rebuilds after the Fifa World Cup, Sangweni should find himself playing a more pivotal role.

WENDY KHUMALO is a young, talented rugby player who has made her mark at both provincial and international levels. Khumalo had her first trial for the KwaZulu-Natal women’s team while she was still at school. Although she was not picked initially, her tenacity shone through and it wasn’t long before she gained her provincial colours. The tough-as-teak flank forward has already represented her country at a Rugby World Cup. And despite a serious injury incurred at that competition, Khumalo shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon. 94 Moses Mabhida Stadium While this world-class stadium was specifically built for the month-long Fifa 2010 World Cup, its impact on the city will be felt for decades to come. Not least of these, should it be successful, will be the city’s bid to host the Olympics in 2020. The stadium is a state-of- the-art multifunctional arena located in the heart of the Kings Park Sporting Precinct. It seated 70 000 fans for the Fifa World Cup, with 54 000 of those seats permanent, and the potential to expand to 85 000 seats to meet the requirements of large-scale events such as the Olympics. The stadium will be the jewel in the crown of the Kings Park Sporting precinct, once plans for the precinct are complete. The precinct will feature additional sporting arenas and facilities, as well as entertainment facilities, while a walkway linking the stadium to the beach has already revitalised the area.

Going For Gold Durban’s plans to bid to host the 2020 Olympics were given a substantial boost by the decision of the International Olympic Committee to use the city as the venue for the IOC General Assembly’s congress in 2011.

JORDY SMITH has set the surfing world alight. The 23-year old Durban local has impressed experts with his fluid style and single-minded determination to reach the top. So great is his potential that he has been likened to South Africa’s only previous world champion, Shaun Thomson. In 2006 Smith showed what he was capable of, when he was crowned the ASP World Junior Champion. In 2010, he made good on that promise and claimed the ASP World Championship, as Thomson did more than three decades before him. 95 MYSTERIES

WALKING AROUND THE CITY OF DURBAN YOU’LL see several strange and unfamiliar sites. What are those white stone circles that you see all around the city? What do the hand signals used by people at taxi stops mean? And what is that strange prehistoric looking bird that makes a high, startled cry? Why do so many number plates feature the numbers 786 and why are some women’s faces painted white or red? Why is there a tree in the middle of that odd- looking building and why do some of the roads have two names? Read on for answers to these questions and more WHITE AND RED FACE PAINT The red and white face paint about the mysteries of Durban. you see on the faces of women in Durban and KwaZulu- Natal is actually clay and chalk respectively, which women buy at local markets in round balls, and which are traditionally used for both beauty and ritual purposes. The red clay is used as a natural and organic alternative to Hidden City Durban is a beautiful city on the surface, but, more than most cities, much of its real beauty lies hidden sunscreen while the white chalk indicates that a woman beneath the tourist-friendly mainstream. If you explore the city has entered her training as a sangoma (traditional healer). on your own terms, you’ll come across unexpected treasure troves of experience and cultural delight. Follow the streets, talk to the locals and find out as much as you can about the rich and unusual texture of eThekwini. Doing so will greatly enhance your experience of this edgy African city. Local tour operator ‘Street Scene’ offers alternative tours of Durban. Contact +27 83 320 2765 or go to www.streetscenetours.co.za.

SHEMBE TEMPLES The white stone circles that are seen in many of Durban’s public spaces - and even on traffic islands - are Shembe Temples. The Shembe religion is an Africanised Christian theology founded by the prophet Isaiah Shembe at the end of the 19th century and is one of the largest religious groupings in South Africa. These stone temples have ‘doors’ which are indicated by a gap in the stones and entering the temple without using the doors is considered sacrilegious. 96 TAXI SIGNALS If you see a stranger at the side of the road making unusual hand signals, they’re not being rude. In fact, they are calling a minibus taxi (one of the primary modes of transport for Durbanites) and telling the driver where it is that they want to go. If you know the sign language, it’s like carrying your own bus stop around with you in the palm of your hand. For those tourists who favour mini- buses over the more expensive taxis, ask a local about the various ROAD NAMES You will notice that in some cases there signals. Hand signals vary from region to region in South Africa. are two different names for the same road. Many of the roads in the centre of the city have recently been renamed to honour the heroes of South Africa’s liberation struggle and their international comrades. To facilitate the transition as smoothly as possible, the old names will remain for a period of time with a red line drawn through them.

HADEDAS Visitors to Durban are often taken aback by this strange looking bird with its curved beak and startled cry which is seen throughout the city. The hadeda (named for the peculiar sound it makes) is actually a species of ibis. It is found throughout the open grasslands of central and Southern Africa, but is equally at home in parks and gardens throughout urban Durban. The Zulu word for hadeda is iNkankane which is similarly onamatopeic. 97 786 Observant visitors to Durban will notice that among the PRAYER FLAGS You might see small red tri- proliferation of customised number plates, as well as elsewhere in the angular flags around Durban with an image of a city, the number 786 frequently appears. This is due to the fact that monkey on them or what looks like a swastika. the number has great mystical or religious significance in Islam. Some These flags are Hindu flags named dhvajas, the believe that 786 is the number of days in which Allah created the monkey is the Hindu deity Hanuman and the world, while others think that it refers to the number of days it took reversed swastika is an ancient Hindu symbol. Muhammad to conquer Mecca. Regardless of its origin, the number is Prayer flags are thought to impart a feeling of displayed in personal and public spaces as an expression of faith. harmony and represent an ancient Eastern tradition.

TEMPLES BEING BORN Durban has a large Hindu population and there are thus many Hindu Temples in and around the city. Some of these temples began their lives as sites where auspicious events have taken place. There are several such sites in central Durban. On a traffic island in Greyville you will see a structure built around a tree. This temple only came into existence a few years ago when a snake was found living there by a priest, at which point it was marked as a holy site with the simple adornment of a sari and coloured powder. On another main traffic route, in Springfield Park, you will see an anthill (where a snake also appeared), similarly wrapped in cloth and adorned with pink powder. 98 xx WHERE TO STAY

DURBAN HAS A FULL SPREAD OF ACCOMMODATION options, from affordable backpacker lodges to a range of beautifully decorated boutique hotels, bed-and- breakfast establishments and world-class high end hotels, all supported by friendly staff, and often featuring an intimacy that is rare in the world of travellers’ accomodation.

Backpackers

Agape Backpackers Home Backpackers 60 Marine Drive, Bluff 34 Alcock Crescent, Tollgate +27 31 466 3960 +27 31 208 9522 Afrique Backpackers Resort 1 Princess Alice Avenue 17 Elizabeth Avenue Glenwood Illovo Beach +27 31 205 7072 +27 31 916 3472 Angle Rock Backpackers Nomads Backpackers 5 Alcock Road, 70 Stephen Dlamini Rd, Berea +27 31 916 7007 +27 31 202 9709 Anstey’s Backpackers Smith’s Cottagte 477 Marine Drive 5 Mount Argus Road Brighton Beach Umgeni Heights +27 31 467 1192 +27 31 564 6313 Durban Beach Backpackers Tekweni Backpackers 19 Anton Lembede Street 169 9th Avenue, +27 31 332 4945 Morningside +27 31 303 1433 Gibela Backpackers Lodge 119 9th Avenue, Morningside The Valley Trust +27 31 303 6292 Zulu Reserve Road, Botha’s Hill +27 31 777 1955 Hippo Hide Lodge 2 Jesmond Road Travellers International Berea 743 Currie Road +27 31 207 4366 Morningside

100 Hotels/Game Lodges

Fairways Golf Lodge ***** Amakhosi Lodge ***** Set in one of South Africa’s most pristine golf Amakhosi offers six magnificent 5-star lodges estates among the rolling hills of Durban’s overlooking the River, and a game coastline, the gracious Fairways Golf Lodge, reserve unrivalled for abundance and beauty. offers every comfort and luxury one could Amakhosi marries the wilderness of Africa desire. with the majesty of 5-star accommodation. Mt Edgecombe Golf Estate, Course 2 R69, Magudu Phone +27 31 538 2900 +27 34 414 1157

Riverside Hotel **** The Royal Hotel ***** Situated above the Umgeni River, in Durban’s Set in the heart of cosmopolitan Durban, this beautiful “green belt”, the Riverside boasts 5-star “haven of grace” is in close proximity spectacular views, excellent service and to all amenities, and is founded on world sound 4-star accommodation as well as close class standards of hospitality and service. proximity to most of Durban’s great sights Elegance and luxury make The Royal a must- and sounds. stay in Durban. It is indeed aptly named. 10 Drive, Durban North 267 Anton Lembede Street, City Centre Phone +27 31 563 0600 +27 31 333 6000

Tropicana Hotel *** Lynton Hall ***** Located on the Golden Mile of Durban’s sun- Set in a spectacular coastal forest near one of baked beaches, the Tropicana Hotel offers Africa’s most beautiful beaches, Lynton Hall is a both the intimacy of family living and the gracious colonial property. Voted one of the ‘Top professionalism of conference and function 80 hotels in the world’ by Condé Nast, it ranks rooms and banqueting staff. as one of the country’s most superb properties. OR Tambo Parade, Durban Umdoni Village, Douglas Road, Phone +27 31 368 1511 +27 39 975 3122

Quarters Hotel **** Thanda Private Game Reserve ***** Four gracious Victorian homes have been Set in one of South Africa’s prime Big Five wonderfully restored to create this charming game reserves, Thanda is dedicated to the yet sophisticated hotel situated in one of rehabilitation of KZN’s natural ecosystems Durban’s prime suburbs. Fine décor and and the celebration of Zulu culture. Nine friendly staff combine to make this hotel one luxury private villas set in the heart of pristine of the city’s best. wilderness, make up this beautiful lodge. 101 Florida Road, Morningside, Durban Hluhluwe Phone +27 31 303 5246 Phone +27 11 469 5082

Hotel Izulu ***** Mkuze Falls Private Game Reserve ***** This exclusive 5-star property combines all- This luxury game lodge overlooks the suite accommodation with a host of services waterfalls of the Mkuze River. In the middle to pamper and create an unashamed of a 10 000 hectare Big Five game reserve, relaxation, making this one of the finest this is one of the most exclusive and beautiful establishments on KZN’s beautiful North lodges in KwaZulu-Natal. Coast. R66, Magudu Rey’s Place, Ballito +27 34 414 1018 Phone +27 32 946 3444

101 THE SIX CLUSTERS OF CITY GOVERNMENT The organisational structure of Durban’s city government GOVERNANCE has been designed so that the the buck stops at exactly the right places.

AS WITH ALL CITIES AND INSTITUTIONS IN SOUTH 1. Sustainable Development and City Enterprises bears Africa, Durban has had to change fundamentally in order responsibility for development planning and management, to accommodate and assimilate itself within the context of economic development, city enterprises, business support, the new South Africa, and provide services to all of the and the development and maintenance of markets around city’s residents. the city. 2. Procurement and Infrastructure This cluster is concerned The organisational transformation agenda of the City with procurement as well as housing, electricity, water and has been driven by an analysis of both what will be delivered sanitation, engineering, transport and ensuring a clean city. and how it will be delivered. In this new model, the City 3. Health, Safety and Social Services This cluster looks after Manager heads the city management structure, assisted health issues in the city as well as the Metro police, emergency by six Deputy City Managers. These deputies each lead services, parks, recreation, cemeteries and culture. one of six clusters supported by technical and professional 4. Governance is responsible for City Hall’s administration and secretariat, communications, regional centres, and staff. These clusters are: Sustainable Development and community participation and action support. City Enterprises; Procurement and Infrastructure; Health, 5. Corporate and Human Resources are responsible for HR, Safety and Social Services; Governance; Corporate and skills development, management services, organisational Human Resources; and finally the Treasury. development, legal services and occupational health and safety. 6. The Treasury looks after the city’s finances, its real estate Political Structure The Municipality has 200 Councillors. 100 and its automobile fleet. are directly elected ward Councillors, and 100 are selected through proportional representation. The Municipality consists of the Executive Committee that reports to the full Council.

Traditional Leadership In the eThekwini Municipality there are 17 Amakhosi (traditional leaders) within the municipal area of jurisdiction. The Municipality works closely with traditional leadership and has structural communication channels in place to ensure continuous interaction. The Amakhosi meet on a monthly basis in their chamber in Pinetown. The Council has seconded staff from the Municipality to assist the Amakhosi Chamber with administrative issues and secretariat activities. Given the commitment to strengthening the partnership with the Amakhosi, the Municipality is currently exploring other mechanisms to further engage traditional leadership as the City’s Integrated Development Plan goes forward.

102 OFFICE OF THE CITY MANAGER International and Governance Relations Office As a The office of the City Manager is fully staffed with a result of the establishment of a full-time staffed Office on Geographic Information and Policy Office, an independent International and Governance Relations, our Municipality Ombudsperson Office, International and Governance has been able to coordinate its efforts relating to Relations, and Audit offices. international liaison. In particular, during the current term of office numerous partnerships have been entered into Geographic Information and Policy Office The Geographic with key international agencies and sister cities. In addition Information and Policy Office (GIPO) was set up to spark to international liaison coordination, the newly established a new creative spirit of bold and innovative thinking Office has played an important role in ensuring that the around corporate policies. It produces research on our spheres of government align their programmes citizens’ quality of life, coordinates local government’s towards promoting more holistic development. input into the census, and manages the Corporate Geographic Information Systems and Information Internal Audit and Performance Management Office Technology outputs and operations. Over the past few years, this office has been involved in ensuring that there is a rigorous system of internal Office of the Ombudsperson The functions of this office, control in the city. This has had a positive effect on the which was established in December 2002, include defending credit rating status of eThekwini and good corporate citizens’ rights, investigating all complaints, ensuring that governance. Perhaps the most significant achievement the principles of fairness and equity prevail in decision- in strategic terms has been the in-house development making, ensuring compliance with transformation legislation, of a Performance Management System. The task of preparing and implementing the “clean administration” implementing a PMS in a large Municipality without programme, and ensuring the develop-ment of programmes external assistance and expertise is daunting, but within various units that appropriately deal with racism, eThekwini Municipality has deliberately chosen to sexism, xenophobia and related intolerances. develop the system internally.

COUNCIL AND ITS COMMITTEES Council number of support committees which focus on particular Committees are made up of elected politicians. It is areas of the Council’s work, for example: Town Planning, through the committee structures that elected Health and Safety, Economic Development and Planning, representatives set policies and guide implementation Infrastructure, Transport, Culture and Recreation, Housing, of all aspects of Council delivery. The nature, type Land and Human Resources. and procedures of these committees are governed by The support committees are themselves further divided national legislation. into a number of standing subcommittees which deal with A full meeting of all councillors is held monthly, covering specific issues. These committees and their subcommittees all committee and subcommittee decisions including those meet regularly to review issues and prepare recommendations of the Executive Committee. Membership of the nine- for the Executive Committee and full Council. member Executive Committee is based on the number of Public attendance at Council meetings is encouraged votes achieved by parties in local government elections. to enable citizens to observe and understand the most Informing and advising the Executive Committee is a senior decision-making body in the Municipality.

103 MONEY MATTERS

ETCETERA Currency The local currency is the South African Rand. Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs) will accept most international bank/credit cards including Visa, Cirrus and TRANSPORTATION Maestro.

THE KING SHAKA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT RECEIVES Credit Cards South Africa has one of the world’s most direct flights from various international destinations. Check sophisticated banking systems, and most shops, hotels and their website for arrivals and departures. Various domestic restaurants will accept credit cards. services also fly frequently from the airport. These include VAT South Africa has adopted a Value Added Tax system of Kulula, OneTime, SA Express and SAA. Inter-city coaches and 14% on purchases and services. If you are a foreign visitor trains are reasonably priced and depart daily for various to South Africa, you can reclaim VAT on your purchases, destinations. Check out the Greyhound, Baz Bus and Magic provided the total claim exceeds R250. VAT is refunded at Bus websites. the VAT Refund Office (see below) at King Shaka International Within Durban the Mynah Bus and the People Mover buses Airport. Ensure that you receive a tax invoice from the store where you make your purchase, and on departure from South offer a frequent and reliable local bus service that ferries Africa present your goods and tax invoice for inspection at passengers between the north and south beaches, the CBD the VAT refund desk. Then collect your VAT refund cheque. and surrounding suburbs. Visitors to the city are advised to Be sure to have your purchases readily available for inspection use conventional taxi cabs if they are going to be traveling on departure from South Africa. within the city and its immediate suburbs. For more extensive driving, a hire-car is the most sensible option. VAT Refund Office King Shaka International Airport +27 32 436 9050 VAT Refund Administrator +27 11 394 1117 (Johannesburg)

Your Safety In Our City Durban’s CBD in partnership with the Metro Police, the (SAP) and Tourist Protection Unit, has gone to considerable efforts to safeguard tourists against crime. Surveillance cameras and improved lighting have been installed on the beachfront, and security guards watch over most shopping centres and large businesses. Nonetheless, visitors to our city should take the sensible precautions they would in any major city. Avoid carrying large sums of money, loose cameras or video cameras, and leaving belongings unattended. As in most big cities, it is sensible to take advice from locals about where to go after dark.

104 Forex

Rennies +27 31 305 5722 Anton Lembede Street, Durban Bay House First National Bank Main Branch Corner of Anton Lembede and Joe Slovo Street +27 31 369 5411 Beach Branch +27 31 337 9464 End of West Street Standard Bank Main Branch +27 31 366 3811 Standard House, Dr Pixley KaSeme Street American Express Main Branch +27 31 301 5541 No.1 Durban Club Place Musgrave +27 31 202 8733 213 Musgrave Road, Berea Umhlanga +27 31 566 2620 Shop 3D, 314 Umhlanga Rocks Drive +27 31 265 1455 Shop 248C, The Pavilion, Spine Road

Consulates

Australia Tel: +27 31 209 7351 Fax: +27 31 209 4081 Belguim Tel: +27 31 303 2840 Fax: +27 31 312 0434 Canada Tel: +27 31 303 9695 Fax: +27 31 303 9694 Chile Tel: +27 31 312 8608 Fax: +27 31 312 8608 Denmark Tel: +27 31 202 9396 Fax: +27 31 202 9399 Germany Tel: +27 31 305 5677 Fax: +27 31 305 5679 Greece Tel: +27 31 301 4880 Fax: +27 31 301 4663 India Tel: +27 31 304 7020 Fax: +27 31 301 4663 Italy Tel: +27 31 368 4388 Fax: +27 31 368 4504 Netherlands Tel: +27 31 202 0461 Fax: +27 31 201 5043 Norway/Sweden Tel: +27 31 207 6900 Fax: +27 31 207 5909 Tel: +27 31 305 7511 Fax: +27 31 304 6036 Rep. Tel: +27 31 312 9704 Fax: +27 31 312 9704 Rep. Tel: +27 31 304 0200 Fax: +27 31 304 0774 Spain Tel: +27 31 764 2574 Fax: +27 31 764 2550 United Kingdom Tel: +27 31 305 3041 Fax: +27 31 307 4661 USA Tel: +27 31 305 7600 Fax: +27 31 305 7650 Uruguay Tel: +27 31 362 7331 Fax: +27 31 362 7331

105 Useful Phone Numbers

TOURIST SERVICES GENERAL SERVICES Tourist Junction +27 31 304 4934 Computicket +27 83 915 8000 Visitor Information Bureau Playhouse Company +27 31 369 9555 Old Station Building, 1st Floor, City Hall +27 31 111 1111 160 Monty Naicker Road ICC +27 31 360 1000 Mon-Fri: 08:00-16:30 Sat: 09:00-14:00 Metro Rail +27 31 361 7609 Beach Office +27 31 332 2595 Main Line Enquiries +27 31 361 3388 Joe Kool’s Complex, Main Line Reservations +27 31 361 7464 Mon-Fri: 08:00-17:00 Sat: 08:30-16:30 Sun & Pub. Hols: 09:00-16:00 Automobile Association (AA) Airport Tourist Info Office +27 32 436 0035 Shop 317, Musgrave Centre, +27 31 201 5244 +27 31 451 6950 Musgrave Road uShaka Marine World +27 32 436 0013 Shop 255, Pavilion, +27 31 265 0437 Spine Road Metro Info Centre 0800 331 011 The Post Office +27 31 336 3333 City Communications Unit +27 31 311 4827 Corner Dr Pixley KaSeme & King Shaka International Airport +27 32 436 6758 Dorothy Nyembe Street KZN Tourism Authority +27 31 366 7500 Mon-Fri (excl Wed): 08:00-16:30 Thousand Hills Tourism +27 31 777 1874 Wed: 08:30-16:30 Amanzimtoti Tourism +27 31 903 7498 Sat: 08:00-12:00 Sugar Coast Tourism +27 31 561 4257 Dolphin Coast Tourism +27 32 946 1997 Durban Library +27 31 311 2213 Parks Board Reservations Mon-Fri: 09:00-16:30 South African National Parks +27 31 304 4934 Sat: 08:30-14:30 KZN Wildlife +27 31 304 4934 Visas +27 31 304 1419 City Walking Tours +27 31 304 4934 The Visa Shop, 78 Joe Slovo Street Oriental, Historical and Durban +27 31 332 2595 Experience tours depart from AIDS Counselling +27 31 765 5886 Tourist Junction daily. Booking essential. Weather permitting. Recommended Taxi Services: Mozzie cabs +27 31 303 5787 Weather Information Bunny cabs, +27 31 332 2914 General +27 82 162 Eagle Taxis +27 31 337 8333 Maritime +27 31 307 4135 Ucabs +27 31 461 1846

106 Emergency Numbers

Emergency Services +27 31 361 0000 (Cellphone users: Dial 112. Operator will redirect call) Police Flying Squad 10111 Ambulance Services Ambulance 10177 City Med +27 31 309 1404/1178 SA Red Cross +27 31 337 6522 St John +27 31 305 6588 Netcare +27 82 911 0800 333 444 Public Hospitals Addington +27 31 327 2000 King Edward VIII +27 31 360 3111 Crompton - Pinetown +27 31 702 0777 Chief Albert Luthuli +27 31 240 1000 Private Hospitals Entabeni +27 31 204 1300 St Augustine’s +27 31 268 5000 Westville Hospital +27 31 265 0911 Umhlanga Hospital +27 31 560 5500 Kingsway Hospital +27 31 904 3600

107 Photo Credits

Welcome to Durban Eating Pages 1-8 Pages 36-41 All images Peter Machen. All images Peter Machen, except Page 40 Roma Revolving Restaurant courtesy of Roma. History Page 37 Head Markets and Mealies on the Street by Val Pages 10-15 Adamson. All images courtesy of Allan Jackson, except Page 14 Statue of John Ross by Peter Machen Building Page 14 Gandhi image from wikicommons.org. Pages 40-45 All images Peter Machen, except City Plans Page 45 Moses Mabhida Stadium Pages 16-25 Page 45 Design Workshop : SA All images Peter Machen, except Page 46 King Shaka International airport Page 16 ICC courtesy of the ICC Page 46 Rodney Choromanski Architects Page 17 Nandi Drive courtesy of Moreland Page 47 Rodney Harber & Associates Page 19 Courtesy of ACSA and Dube Trade Port all supplied by the architects. Page 20 Galleria, courtesy of Galleria, Hammarsdale supplied by eThekwini. Page 22 Bridge City courtesy of Bridge City; automotive Design cluster: Courtesy of eThekwini Municipality Pages 48-53 Page 23 The Value of Durban’s Open Spaces by Peter All images Peter Machen, except Bendheim Page 49 Christian Mugnai Page 21 King’s Park Sports District supplied by eThekwini. Page 50 Mr Walker Page 51 Egg design Faith Page 52 Disturbance and Nanda Sooben Pages 26-29 all supplied by the designers. All images Peter Machen, except Page 26 Hare Krishna by Val Adamson Writing Page 27 Judaism by Lizette Gluch. Pages 54-57 All images courtesy of the writers and their publishers. Commerce Pages 30-35 Art All images Peter Machen, except Pages 58-63 Page 31 Conferencing courtesy of the ICC All images courtesy of the artists, except Page 33 Gateway, Connectivity and Umhlanga Ridge by Page 62 Picture of Michael McGarry by Suzy Bernstein Peter Bendheim. Page 63 Art in Public Buildings by Peter Machen.

108 Music Film Pages 64-71 Pages 80-83 All images Peter Machen, except All images courtesy of the filmmakers. Page 64 Busi Mhlongo by Rafs Mayet, courtesy of Neil Comfort Museums Page 65 The South Jersey Pom-Poms courtesy of the Pages 84-87 band All photos by Peter Machen, except Page 65 Joseph Shabalala courtesy of Gallo Music Page 86 Phansi museum supplied by Phansi. Page 65 Richard Haslop by Harry Locke Page 66 The Arrows courtesy of the Arrows Getting Out Page 67 Guy Buttery courtesy of the Famous Ideas Pages 88-91 Company, pic by Suzy Bernstein All images supplied by Ethekwini. Page 67 Phuzekhemisi courtesy of Sony Records Page 68 Dominion courtesy of the band Sport Page 68 Black Coffee courtesy of the band Pages 92-95 Page 68 Big Nuz courtesy of the band All images supplied by the sports people, except Page 69 DJ Tira courtesy of the band Page 92 courtesy of Independent Newspapers Page 69 Neli Shabalala courtesy of Gallo Records Page 83 Papwa Sewgolum from wikicommons.org Page 69 Martin McHale courtesy of Martin McHale Page 84 Penny Heyns courtesy of Omni Share Holdings Page 70 Fruit&Veg by Justin McGee Page 85 Jordy Smith courtesy of Luellen Smith, pic by Page 70 The Fataars courtesy of the The Fataars Jeff Ayliffe Page 70 Nibs van der Spuy courtesy of Nibs van der Spuy Page 85 Moses Mabhida Stadium, supplied by eThekwini. Page 71 Phuzekhemisi courtesy of Sony Records. Mysteries Dance Pages 96-99 Pages 72-75 All images Peter Machen, except All images courtesy of Val Adamson, except Page 97 Hadeda – Wikipedia commons. Page 72 Siwela Sonke courtesy of Jay Pather Page 73 Jomba courtesy of the Centre for Creative Arts Accomodation Page 74 Desire Davids courtesy of Desire Davids Pages 100-101 Page 74 Mlu Zondi courtesy of Famous Ideas Company, All images Peter Machen. pic by Suzy Bernstein. Governance Theatre Pages 102-103 Pages 76-79 All images Peter Machen. All images courtesy of the actors. Etcetera Pages 104-107 All images Peter Machen.

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