Durban: a Return to Paradise and Its People
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DURBAN A Return to Paradise and its People welcome t to durban you are here CONTENTS 009 Foreword 010 History 016 City Plans 026 Faith 030 Commerce 036 Eating 042 Building 048 Design 054 Writing 058 Art 064 Music 072 Dance 076 Theatre 080 Film Published by eThekwini Municipality 084 Museums Commissioned by Ntsiki Magwaza 088 Getting Out eThekwini Communications Unit Words and layout Peter Machen 092 Sport Photography See photo credits 096 Mysteries Printed by Art Printers 100 Where to Stay Printed on Environmentally friendly Sappi Avalon Triple Green Supreme Silk paper 102 Governance ISBN 978-0-620-38971-6 104 Etcetera FOREWORD The face of Durban has changed citizens in to the mainstream of economic activity in eThekwini. dramatically over the past few years These plans are part of the Citys 2010 and Beyond Strategy. due to the massive investments in When the Municipality was planning for the 2010 World Cup, it did infrastructure upgrade that were kick- not just focus on the tournament but tried to ensure that infrastructural started ahead of the 2010 Fifa World improvements would leave a lasting legacy and improve the quality Cup. Many of the plans that were of life for its residents. Beyond the World Cup, these facilities, detailed in the previous edition of Durban together with the Inkosi Albert Luthuli International Convention Centre A Paradise and its People have now been completed and have and Ushaka Marine World, have helped Durban to receive global helped to transform Durban into a world class city that is praised by recognition as Africas sporting and events capital. its citizens and visitors alike. We are a diverse African city that is focused on citywide The attractive Moses Mabhida stadium has become an iconic investments, growing our economy and creating a better quality of landmark for the city, while the renovation of the beachfront has life. In Durban we play hard and we work hard. Its not a coincidence greatly expanded the promenade, which now stretches from Ushaka that we attract so many local and international tourists on a daily Marine World to Blue Lagoon, providing a rich experience for local basis. We are a growing urban setting, rich in diversity, cultural and international tourists. Our transport system is undergoing amenities and outdoor recreational opportunities. The threads that continuous improvements and access into and out of the city has are woven into this City are integral to the rich history of South Africa, improved with the construction of fly-over bridges and dedicated and contribute to the cultural diversity and harmony that defines life lanes for public transport vehicles. We have the brand new King in eThekwini. Shaka International Airport, located in one of the most beautiful Welcome to Durban, the Warmest Place To Be! I hope you enjoy landscapes of any airport in the world, and part of the expansive Durban - A Return to Paradise and its People Dube Tradeport project which encourages export trade. Areas outside of central Durban are also receiving attention, with construction taking place at an accelerated pace from Hammersdale to Inanda, Umhlanga and Amanzimtoti. Development of formerly black Councillor James Nxumalo townships is also progressing in order to bring formerly disadvantaged Mayor of eThekwini Municipality 09 HISTORY THERES SOMETHING FOOLISH ABOUT REDUCING thousands of years of history to just a few pages. And this is particularly the case in the multicultural society of Durban, where many important contributing strands are bound to fall by the wayside. But a little historical context will nonetheless prove useful to visitors to Durban who would like to understand, in some way, how the city has evolved into its current form. The timeline of human habitation in Durban goes back to long before the advent of recorded history in the region. COLONIAL IMPRINT Durban still bears the imprint of George While some of the earliest remnants of humanity are found Catos original three-street town plan, to which only two main parallel streets have been added, before the citys grid structure in the nearby Drakensberg, it is now established that prior surrenders to the more convoluted layout of its surburbs. Like to the arrival of the Nguni people and subsequent European many African cities, Durban still wears the vestiges of its colonial colonialists, the area was populated by the original people origins, with beautiful low rise neo-classical buildings dominating of Southern Africa now collectively called the Khoi/San. its centre, attended by a throng of colonial-era statues. Similarly, Then, on Christmas day in 1497, Portuguese explorer theAlbum: city itself Introducingis still named afterShiyani its founder, Ncgobo Benjamin DUrban, Vasco da Gama passed the mouth of Durban Bay and although it is also referred to by its Zulu name, eThekwini. promptly named it Rio de Natal (Christmas River), presuming that several rivers flowed into the bay. Back then, before the intrusive advent of industrialisation, the bay was separated from the sea by a sandbar. In the vast waters of the bay and the mangrove swamps on its edges, crocodiles, hippopotamuses and flamingoes spent their days. Beyond the bay lay a ridge of hills which was home to elephants, hyenas and lions until about a century ago, and which now houses Durbans immediate suburbs. Over the subsequent years, Rio de Natal came to be a popular stop-off point for explorers and traders, mainly because the bay offered one of the few protected anchorages on the southern coast of Africa. 10 In 1823, the first European settlement arrived on the ship, The Salisbury, under the command of Lieutenant James King, with the aim of trading up and down the South African coast. While inclement weather forced the vessel to anchor in the sheltered area off the coast of Durban, her accompanying ship, the Julia, sailed over the sandbar and surveyed the bay. King immediately recognised the importance of the bay and returned to England to try and garner support for an English settlement. He was unsuccessful, and soon sailed back to Port Natal, as it had come to be called by the Europeans. King then befriended King Shaka Zulu who granted him land around the bay, and sent him to England with two of THE CITY HALL Built in 1910 in the neo-baroque style, the City his chiefs on a diplomatic mission. But the party got no Hall was inspired by the Belfast City Hall in Northern Ireland. This further than Port Elizabeth and King returned to Port Natal handsome sandstone building is adorned with allegorical sculptures in the neo-classical style representing art, music, literature, commerce once more, moving to the Bluff across the bay, where he and industry. The hall, with its sumptuous interior and beautiful died of dysentery in 1828. acoustics, is used as a venue for cultural and social events and This rough, uncertain life frequently had lethal results regularly hosts concerts by the KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra. and at one point the number of settlers at the bay was no The building houses the Mayors Parlour as well as the City Library, more than six. At a meeting in 1835, attended by the full the Natural Science Museum and the Durban Art Gallery. complement of settlers at the time 15 in all a town was proclaimed, and named in honour of the Governor of the Cape, Sir Benjamin DUrban. Despite initially grandiose plans, little development took place in this early settlement. Dwellings of rudimentary mud and wattle nestled in the coastal bush, and a full 12 years after the proclamation, there were still no streets. Although the settlers maintained cordial relations with the powerful founder of the Zulu nation to their north, matters changed for the worse when Shakas successor Dingane took over. Under Shakas rule, the Zulus considered the area to be their territory but had tolerated the white settlers whose trading habits were useful to them. Whereas 11 Shaka had instructed his citizens to live in peace with the white settlers, Dingane showed open animosity and aggression. In 1838 the Voortrekkers arrived from the Eastern Cape, already having laid claim to Natal, despite the fact that several columns of their wagons had been massacred by the Zulus along the way. Later that year at the battle of Ndondakusuka, a number of British traders lost their lives, along with hundreds of Zulus, and were forced to flee. In 1842 the British sent forces to maintain order in the area and were promptly besieged by the Voortrekkers. It fell to Dick King and his Zulu servant Ndongeni to ride to the British Garrison in Grahamstown to get help. APARTHEID TOWN PLANNING has left its footprint all over King earned a legendary place in local history by riding 960 the eThekwini Metro Area as a result of the Group Areas Act kilometres in 10 days, past the Voortrekkers and through wild which divided South African cities along racial lines. But uncharted territory, crossing more than 120 rivers. A month although apartheid formalised segregation, city structures later the besieged British were relieved. (King, seemingly had already been shaped by the countrys colonial past. In 1923 the Urban Areas Act was passed, forcing blacks into always on the side of the underdog, also walked from Durban what were known as locations. Segregated cities became to northern Natal to warn the Voortrekkers of the massacre of apartheidAlbum: Introducingcities after the Shiyani National Ncgobo Party came into power in Piet Retief by the Zulu king Dingane.) 1948 and all remaining non-whites in Durban were forced In 1844, the British annexed the southern portion of Natal to move to the outlying areas of the city.