C A R I B B E A N C MPASS FEBRUARY 2010 NNO.O. 171733 TheThe ’sC Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

CRUISERS ‘GET DOWN’ IN CARRIACOU

— see story on page 24 GORDON NICHOLL FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Cover photo: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& isfo eettast...22 Tips fromarecenttransit ..... Panama Canal 21 So much,solittle… San BlasBliss Welcoming andinteresting Don’t MissSt.Kitts The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore Louise KupkadivinginCarriacou/PhotoGordonNicholl FEBRUARY 2010•NUMBER173 www.caribbeancompass.com ..18 ....

Click GoogleMaplinkbelowto fi BOSHOFF Can yachtentrybeeased? 41 .... Grenadines Gripe Eating, EmeraldIslestyle ...... 3 Munchies Montserrat 26 Seeing redinthesanctuary .. Barbuda Boys

nd the CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS [email protected] MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: Tel: (5999)4627733 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 : [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 : Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissionstosally@caribbeancompass.com. Caribbean Compass The CaribbeanSky 33 ...... 32 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 32 ...... Fun Pages...... 30,31 29 Sailors’ Hikes ...... 23 Off TrackwithStreet ...... 18 Destinations ...... 13 Regatta News...... 9 Business Briefs ...... Caribbean Compass can use.We’re theCaribbean’smonthlylookatseaandshore. Panama toBarbuda,we’vegotthenewsandviewsthatsailors AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution-BudgetMarineCuraçao Compass Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston I amadevotedfan.” the latestindiningorrigging—thisisyoursource. clearance costs,safetyissues,communityoutreachprojects, out theCaribbeanthatmatterstocruisers—whetherit’sport “If youreally,reallywanttoknowwhat’sgoingonthrough- welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2010 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionorprintingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissionsmaybeeditedlengthclarity. responsibility oftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompassPublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! coverstheCaribbean!FromCubatoTrinidad, from — ElaineLembo,DeputyEditorCruisingWorld DEPARTMENTS nearyou! ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandletterstoeditoraresole Advertisers’ Index 46 ...... 46 Classified Ads ...... 43 Caribbean Marketplace...... 42 Monthly Calendar ...... 41 Doyle’s DeckView ...... Readers’ Forum 38 ...... All Ashore 36 ...... 35 Book Review ...... Meridian Passage 35 ...... [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448 Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: (868)621-0575,Cell:620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, Distribution -LisaKessell [email protected] Tel: (758)4520147Cell:7208432. St. Lucia: [email protected] (0596) 596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Cell: (473)457-2151Office:444-3222 Ad Sales&Distribution-KarenMaaroufi Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad SalesMauriceMoffat Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Tel: AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePradoTel: Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

LUCY TULLOCH

Compass’s , an Impulse 21. , an Impulse 21. Lucia Tortola Cay Electronics Tortola Road Town, Ph: 284-494-2400 Fx: 284-494-5389 [email protected] Marine Maintenance Services Tortola Road Town, Ph: 284-494-3494 Fx: 284-494-8491 [email protected] Parts & Power Tortola Road Town, Ph: 284-494-2830 Fx: 284-494-1584 [email protected] Antigua Agent Wins ‘Best Sailing Photo’ Award Antigua Agent Wins ‘Best Sailing St Thomas All Points Marine Compass Point Marina Ph: 340-775-9912 Fx: 340-779-2457 Trinidad Services Diesel Technology Siparta Ph: 868-649-2487 Fx: 868-649-9091 [email protected] Dockyard Electrics Chaguaramas Ph: 868-634-4272 Fx: 868-634-4933 [email protected] At dusk, the procession set off from the marina entrance for the anchorage at Pigeon entrance for the anchorage set off from the marina At dusk, the procession for the converged on H20 restaurant back at the marina, all crews After tying up activities visit www.stluciayachtclub.com For more information on SLYC Compass’s Lucy Tulloch, an artist, sailor, designer and The photo below taken by On December 22nd, 13 uniquely decorated vessels participated in what was hope- vessels participated in what 22nd, 13 uniquely decorated On December Island, the crews singing along with our in-house DJ Mickey, who piped an eclectic mix DJ Mickey, who piped singing along with our in-house Island, the crews into Rodney The flotilla then headed back and Caribbean vibes. of traditional carols and the end of the parade. a fly-by on The Edge restaurant Bay Lagoon for courtesy of Heineken. Prizes were given to the prizegiving and complimentary improvisation and best crew uniform, as well as a host best-decorated boat, most by local companies, including Fire Grill, Delirious, of others. All prizes were donated Café Ole, Rain Forest Sky Rides, Steel Pan Band The Edge, Colombian Emeralds, Special thanks go to IGY Rodney Bay Marina, which Harmonites and Spinnakers. night for the participating boats, and to the partici- provided free berths for the pants themselves. by the YachtPals website as one of its Best Sailing agent in Antigua, was selected Photos of the Year 2009. page —Continued on next that is Christmas spirit from their hearts to many boats around the Rodney Bay Area. many boats around the Rodney spirit from their hearts to that is Christmas Yacht Club. organized by the St. Lucia many Carols Afloat flotillas fully the first of on island with yachts that had arrived ranged from ocean-going Craft participating on board boats, to the SLYC crew the ARC, to fishing

DANIELLE DE ROUCK St. John Coral Bay Marine Coral Bay Ph: 340-776-6665 Fx: 340-776-6859 [email protected] St Lucia The Sail Loft Rodney Bay Marina Ph: 758-452-1222 Fx: 758-452-4333 [email protected] St Maarten Electec Cole Bay Ph: 599-544-2051 Fx: 599-544-3641 [email protected] Grenada Grenada Marine St. David's Ph: 473-443-1667 Fx: 473-443-1668 [email protected] Martinique Inboard Diesel Service Port of Case Pilote Ph: 596-596-787-196 Fx: 596-596-788-075 [email protected] St Croix St. Croix Marine Christiansted Ph: 340-773-0289 Fx: 340-778-8974

Antigua Marine Power Services English Harbour Ph: 268-460-1850 Fx: 268-460-1851 [email protected] Services Seagull Yacht English Harbour Ph: 268-460-3050 Fx: 268-460-1767 [email protected] Bequia Caribbean Diesel Port Elizabeth Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Long life. Long Reliability. Simplicity.

Christmas Carols Afloat in St. Lucia Christmas Carols Afloat in St. is Christmas in the heart that puts Christmas in the air,” Callum McArdells reports: “It The first-ever Carols Afloat brought singin’ and swingin’ holiday cheer The first-ever Carols Afloat brought singin’ and swingin’ to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia said W.T. Ellis, and I don’t think anyone who participated in St Lucia’s inaugural said W.T. Ellis, and I don’t think with that. The boats that participated brought the joy Carols Afloat would argue

& Updates & Info FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 about otheryachtburglaries. island ofMayreau,andinformedsourcesindicatethatheiswantedforquestioning this arrest.Grantreportedlywasalsoinvolvedinayachtbreak-inattheGrenadine been releasedfromprisonfollowingatwo-yearsentenceonlythreemonthsbefore newspaper, Vincent, andstealingcashacellphone.Accordingtoreportinanotherlocal police nearby,GrantadmittedenteringayachtatCanashBay(BlueLagoon),St. paper reportedontheJanuary3rdarrestofKenroyGrant,28.Afterbeingspottedby newspaper, ‘wish youwerehere’inlettersastalltheskyitself,andwedo.” us totheCaribbean,andoftheseclassicyachtsthatslipthroughitswaters.Itsays Tulloch, andheraccomplishedeyehascapturedboththeessenceofwhatdraws ing inparadise—particularlythemiddleofwinter.ThisshotwastakenbyLucy — Less than a month after the cover story of St. Vincent & the Grenadines’ national Less thanamonthafterthecoverstoryofSt.Vincent&Grenadines’national Yacht BurglarJailedinSt.Vincent To viewallthewinningphotosvisithttp://yachtpals.com/sailing-photos-7095 YachtPals says,“Sometimes,youjustneedtoberemindedwhatit’slikesail- Continued frompreviouspage The News The Vincentian , Grant, who has a 12-year record of previous convictions, had , Grant,whohasa12-yearrecordofpreviousconvictions,had , lamented “Yacht Crimes Crippling SVG Tourism”, the , lamented“YachtCrimesCripplingSVGTourism”,the The Searchlight

newspaper quoted Prosecutor newspaper quotedProsecutor COURTESY THE VINCENTIAN THE COURTESY —Continuedonnextpage [email protected] foraccountinformation. ble.” IfyouwishtodonatedirectlytheEtoileDuMatinSchoole-mail have anythingtohelpthepeopleinthisarea,butwithyourthatwillbepossi- parents ofstudents,familyandfriendswhowereinthecapitalattime.Wedon’t greatly fordesiringtohelpus.Wehavealotofpeoplewhodiedintheearthquake: could sendfinancialaidforthatorfoodwouldbegreat.Wethankyou “Because ofthesituationincountry,thereisgoingtobealothunger.Ifyou through theeducationofitschildren.” can bemadedirectlytotheschoolandtherebybenefitentirecommunity and SchoolsBeyondBorderstakesnoservicecostsfromthedonations.Adonation school, however,hasasecuredonationlineavailablethroughreputablebank is fraughtwithcorruptionandverylittlemakesitswaytointendedrecipients.Our ing theschooloperatingiscriticalforcommunity’sfuture.ThemainlandofHaiti schoolsbeyondborders.com) haspartneredwiththisschoolforsupport. rural islandinHaiti.ItisforthisreasontheSchoolsBeyondBordersFoundation(www. pounded byanaturaldisasteritisnotdifficulttoimaginetheextremepovertyof horseback oronfoot.Withthepre-existingtremendouspovertyincountrycom- Vache. Therearenoriversorspringshere,androadscars—peopletravelon boat. CruisersBevandBillBatewrite:“EtoileDuMatinSchoolislocatedinIle-à- for yachts.Itis200kilometressouthwestofPort-au-Princeandaccessibleonlyby which helppeopleandtheircommunitiesensuretherecoveryisalastingone.” way ofreliefandreconstructionefforts,buttospendtheirtouristdollarsinways the country.EverybodyshouldmakefutureplanstotravelHaiti,notgetin communities inotherpartsofHaiti.Effectiverecoveryrequireshelpingall of usingtourismtofeedresourcesnotonlythedevastatedareas,butalso Sustainable Tourism‘sdirectorLeleiLeLaulustates,“Theregionshouldlookforways welcome, infactneed,tourismdollars.TheCaribbeanMediaExchangeon area wasdirectlyaffectedbytheearthquakeandotherpartsofHaiticontinueto and “lettheprosdotheirjob”.Meanwhile,keepinmindthatonlyPort-au-Prince victims; donorscanearmarktheircontributionsforearthquakerelief. lage ofAuCentre/Beaumont,iscurrentlyalsoprovidingassistancetothedisaster Community Support(www.haitisupport.org).Thegroup,whichprimarilyassiststhevil- with whichmanysailorshavebeeninvolved,istheUSVI-basednon-profitHaiti the Internetthatsoundsincerebutarenot.” like theSalvationArmyorRedCross.Unfortunately,therewillbefraudsouton tribute money,theyshouldonlydoitthroughestablished,reputableorganizations the globerushedtohelp,andCaribbeanboatingcommunityisdoingitspart. ital ofPort-au-PrinceonJanuary12th,individuals,groupsandgovernmentsaround try.” Grantwassentencedtothreemonthsinjailforthislatestoffence. Inspector NigelButcherassaying,“Weconsiderhimathreattothe[tourism]indus- Following isanexcerptfrome-mailtheBatesreceivedschoolprincipal: “This areareceiveslittleaidfromoutsideagenciesduetoitsremoteness,butkeep- Ile-à-Vache, asmallislandoffHaiti’ssouthwestcoast,hasbecomepopularstop The Pompasalsonotethatvisitorsshouldcurrentlystayawayfromthestrickenarea An organizationthatcomeswellrecommendedbycruiserEllenSanpere,andone First, cruisersJohnandMelodyePompaofferthisadvice:“ifpeoplewanttocon- After anearthquakemeasuring7.0ontheRichterscaledevastatedHaitiancap- Boating CommunityHelpsHaiti FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

ROBER VAN DAM was taken by Robert Van Dam, and the photo of the hawksbill turtle on was taken by Robert Van Dam, and the photo of the The photo above of the green turtle that appeared on page 4 of last month’s The photo above of the green turtle that appeared on Space is limited so please RSVP by March 18th to [email protected] or 18th to [email protected] so please RSVP by March Space is limited Errata in last starting in St. Maarten confused got our multi-island regattas Ooops — we Compass page 36 was shot by Kevin Favreau. phone Sally at (784) 457-3409. We look forward to seeing you there. (784) 457-3409. We look forward phone Sally at L’Alliance — covered the Course de News. Stéphane Legendre month’s Regatta in this on the Golden Rock Regatta 12. There’s also a report see story on page 17. News, pages 14 through month’s Regatta . PM The during the past correspondent Ann (formerly . , has recently re- Compass Compass Receta on line with digital page flipping, on line with digital page flipping, The Triton special! The Spice Necklace: A Food-Lover’s The Spice Necklace: A Food-Lover’s The Triton Directory The Triton . All other performances begin at 8:30 Compass PM , Thursday, April 1st (no fooling!) at the ever-pop- AM goes to press we’ve received news that on January 23rd, we’ve received news that goes to press , author, cruiser, and occasional , author, cruiser, and occasional Contributors! Compass ) with information on some 3,000 yacht-related companies. Visit ) with information on some Compass Writers’ Brunch at 10:00

www.spicenecklace.com Continued from previous page Continued from 15th Annual Mustique Blues Festival 15th Annual Mustique Blues Mustique becomes The House of Blues for two Once a year, Basil’s Bar on To accompany the release of her new book, To accompany the release As this issue of As this issue of Cruisers’ Site-ings industry magazines, One of our favorite yachting The annual Transcaraibes yacht rally will again be stopping in during this again be stopping in Haiti during yacht rally will The annual Transcaraibes The line-up includes Grammy Award nominees Billy Branch and Hans Theessink, The line-up includes Grammy Award nominees Billy Branch Foundation. The BCEF All proceeds are donated to the Basil Charles Educational For more information visit www.basilsbar.com. Calling All If you’ve had an article, photo or poem published in the If you’ve had an article, photo or poem published in the Visit 12 months, you are cordially invited to bring a guest and join us at this year’s 12 months, you are cordially invited to bring a guest and Compass ular Mac’s Pizzeria in Bequia. The annual Compass Writers’ Brunch is held just at the ular Mac’s Pizzeria in Bequia. The annual Compass Writers’ on for a whole weekend of beginning of the Bequia Easter Regatta, so you can stay of saying a special thank- fun. The Writers’ Brunch is absolutely free — it’s our way you to everyone who helps make the weeks. This year the event runs through February 10th. The Mustique Blues Festival through February 10th. The Mustique Blues Festival weeks. This year the event runs 5th in St. Vincent at The takes place every evening at Basil’s Bar, except for February Sundays feature family Aquatic Club (there was a Bequia appearance in January). sunset performances from 5:30 to 7:30 www.thetriton.com launched its website. Now you can read launched its website. Now site, check out and while you’re visiting the Captain’s Mate Caribbean Adventure — to benefit the USVI, will host a concert Grande marina in St. Thomas, Yacht Haven during the a raffle will take place earthquake in Haiti. In addition, victims of the more. Each of trips, gift certificates, and including hotel stays, boat event with prizes and all pro- performance for this fundraiser, performing is donating its the five bands the relief efforts of the American benefit will be donated to ceeds from this Red Cross. fleet will be 30th through April 22nd. The sail, March year’s Guadeloupe-to- other supplies to Ile-à-Vache, and rally participants carrying donated food and are asked to donate to the island’s St. François wanting to contribute financially Orphanage (www.ileauxenfantsdhaiti.com). a website. Designed by her husband, Steve Manley, the Vanderhoof has launched couple’s cruising travels, share their adventures, see site allows you to follow the of life aboard their boat, their photos, and get a taste and Blues Festival regulars Dana Gillespie and The London Blues Band. and Blues Festival regulars Dana Gillespie and The London in St. Vincent & the began in 1995 to raise money to help send needy children more than 69 students on Grenadines to secondary school. The BCEF currently has who have benefited scholarship or bursary, bringing the total number of children from the program to more than 120. FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 sailgrenada.co.uk andYSATT,GinaCarvallo, (868)634-4938,[email protected]. reduce tozero—theonlyacceptablelevel. the stepstakenabovewillensurethat piracy levelsdonotincreaseor,betteryet, areas suchasthenortherncoastofVenezuela’s PeninsuladeParia.Itishopedthat adopted throughouttheCaribbean. Association tobeacceptedandinitiatedbygovernmentprivatesector and be investigated. reach asite30milesoffshoreinaboutminutes. Grenada. Trinidad&Tobago’ssecurityforceshavehelicoptercapabilityand can of amorepowerfulVHFtransmitter/receiver. drug running. track thesmalltypeof“cigarette”orpirogueboatcommonlyusedinpiracy and track boatstransitingbetweenthetwoislands.Thisstationcanalsobeused to non-arrival atthedestination. vessels giveadvancenoticeofarrivalsothatanalertcanbeissuedinthecase of proposal isunderconsideration. would allowcontinuousmobilephonecoveragebetweenGrenadaandTrinidad.This sought. channel 16twenty-fourhoursaday.Acallsignfortherigiscurrentlybeing between GrenadaandTrinidadwillalsoacceptrelaysecuritymessagesonVHF vice onlyavailableduringshopopeninghours). (with a70-miletransmitterlocatedononeofhighestpointstheisland,withser- 70-mile transmissioncapability)andIslandWaterWorldyachtchandleryinGrenada Grenada usingbothislands’radioresources:NorthPostRadioinTrinidad(with and approachesforanyfutureresponses. Trinidadian counterpartswaysofstrengtheningexistingoperationalarrangements visit Trinidadtofollowuponthisparticularincidentandalsodiscusswithhis also underconstruction. are duetobedeliveredlaterthisyear.AlargeCoastguardvesselwithahelicopteris Craft (FPC)toconductoperations.Threemorearecurrentlyunderconstructionand farther offshore.CurrentlytheTrinidad&TobagoCoastguardhasthreeFastPatrol ducts regularpatrolsalongthenorthcoastofTrinidad.Thesewillnowextend yachting community. and broadcastinformationonthedailyGrenadaVHFCruisers’Nettoalert matic effortstoimprovesecurity. its YachtSteeringCommittee,withthesameintentionofcommencementdiplo- of piracyoffitsshores. continue andtheGovernmentofVenezuelawillassistwitheradicatingproblem Ministry oftheGovernmentVenezuela.Itishopedsuchcommunicationswill incident occurredandcommunicationofthewasmadetoForeign of themarineindustry: the MarineandYachtingAssociationofGrenada(MAYAG)individualmembers of eachcountry:theYachtServicesAssociationTrinidad&Tobago(YSATT)and Governments ofTrinidad&TobagoandGrenadaaswellthemarineassociations Venezuelan nationals. From thedescriptionofperpetratorsgiven,itismostlikelythattheyare of theyachtingindustryinGrenadatorehabilitatethemselvesaftertheirordeal. took photographsandotherevidencedetails.Thecrewwereassistedbymembers officers fromGrenada’sCriminalInvestigationandForensicDepartmentswho band radios. the yacht’shand-heldVHFanddestructionofinstalledsingle-side- alerted theauthorities,havingbeenunabletodosobeforeowingtheftof Security Measures Spurs International Trinidad andGrenada Robbery ofYachtBetween erly direction.Thecrewof least 30minutesonboard,themenloadedpirogueanddepartedinasouthwest- During thistimetheyachtdriftedwithsailsupwhilepiroguecircled.Afterat of awiderangeitemsincludingelectronics,cash,clothing,foodandalcohol. Robert Keinzle,andplacedatoweloverhishead.Thementhenstrippedtheyacht armed withrifles.Fourorfiveofthesemenboarded occupants firedshotsattheyachtandcommandeditscrewtostop. 61°52’W), theywereapproachedfromthesouthbyapirogue-typemotorboatwhose around 12:00noon,approximately40milesnorthofTrinidad(position11°27’N with threeGermannationalsonboard,wasenroutefromTrinidadtoGrenada.At For moreinformationcontactMAYAG,Jennifer Ellard-Alexis,(473)4167135,james@ Currently incidentsofpiracyareverysmall innumberandlimitedtoveryspecific • Developmentofaregional“anti-piracy”strategybytheCaribbeanMarine • ThepossibilityofyachtstravellinginconvoybetweenTrinidadandGrenadawill • ImprovingcommunicationbetweenthesecurityforcesofTrinidad&Tobagoand • IncreaseinthepatrolsperformedbyGrenadaCoastguard. • UpgradingofcommunicationsattheGrenadaCoastguardincludingaddition • TheuseofapowerfulradarstationlocatedonthenorthcoastTrinidad to • Thedevelopmentofa“floatplan”fortheTrinidad-to-Grenadapassagewherein • Theadditionofamobilephonerepeaterstationontheabovementionedoilrig Actions Planned • Theoilrigthatisstationedalmostexactlymidwayandontherhumbline • AVHFradiosecuritynetsystemwillbeputinplacebetweenTrinidadand • Asofthiswriting,theCommanderGrenadaCoastguardwasexpectedto • YSATTinitiatedameetingwiththeTrinidad&TobagoCoastguard,whichcon- • MAYAGreportedtheincidenttoCaribbeanSafety&SecurityNetandYSATT • YSATTisalsomeetingmembersoftheTrinidad&TobagoGovernmentthrough • MAYAGalertedmembersoftheGovernmentGrenadaonsameday Actions Taken The followingactionsarecurrentlyplannedoralreadyhavebeenenactedbythe The GrenadaCoastguardinitiallytookstatementsfrom Triton The piroguecontainedsevenoreightSpanish-speakingmenwhoappearedtobe On December21st,2009theyacht continuedtowardsGrenada,arrivingat6:00thatevening.Thecrewthen by JamesPascallforMAYAG Triton wereunharmed. Triton , a56-footPanamanian-registeredsloop Triton Triton’s , tiedupthecaptain, crew,followedby FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 “Thank you, Friendship Season!” Le Phare Bleu’s Executive Chef, Mark Banthorpe, with Shelisha Bishop, Grenada’s Child Welfare Authority Emergency Centre Manager in the early 1990s in Bizone caught fire while on the dock in Longo Mai Lucky guys! At right is Sprout, the first lucky draw winner of a dinghy-out- board combo from Island Water World. At left is the sec- ond dinghy-out- board combo winner, Vasko (second from right), with the Island Water World E-commerce Team at the store entrance in Cole Bay, St. Maarten Longo Mai . S/V Bizone

The second winner of Island Water World’s Online Game prize of a dinghy- The second winner of Island Water World’s Online Game Vassil, nicknamed Vasko and 74 years young, built Until the end of January, every online shopper at Island Water World’s new e-com- Until the end of January, every online shopper at Island as the company Island Water World also took care of the freight headache, page 48. For more information on Island Water World see ad on Woodstock Boatbuilders Refit reports: We recently com- Andrew Robinson of Woodstock Boatbuilders in Antigua on page 8. For more information on Woodstock Boatbuilders see ad Le Phare Bleu Marina Donates to Grenadian Charities Le Phare Bleu Marina and Boutique Hotel, located at Petit Calivigny Bay, Winners Announced in Island Water World’s Draw in Island Water World’s Winners Announced alias Sprout, Game is Russell Morton, of Island Water World’s Online The first winner Grenada, had a great “Friendship Season” 2009. This special season all came Grenada, had a great “Friendship Season” 2009. This special season all came about because of the recession. With “bad news” stories everywhere, Dieter Burkhalter and Jana Caniga, the owners of Le Phare Bleu, decided to focus on bringing people together by making an evening out easier on the wallet while offering something new. For example, during August you could take your best friend to dinner at the Poolbar Restaurant and Le Phare Bleu would pay for their meal in return for your friendship story. —Continued on next page outboard combo is Vassil Kurtev from Bulgaria. He arrived in St. Maarten in outboard combo is Vassil Kurtev from Bulgaria. He arrived his 38-foot December from Tenerife, after crossing the Atlantic on custom-designed Bulgaria together with his son. Owing to the lack of well-stocked chandleries, Vasko Bulgaria together with his son. Owing to the lack of well-stocked participated in 1984 in OSTAR fabricated many parts himself. He is an avid sailor and England to Newport, (Observer Singlehanded Transatlantic Race from Plymouth, and finished in 40 days. Rhode Island). Back then he sailed a 24-foot Folkboat automatically eligible to win merce website — www.islandwaterworld.com — was Mercury out- the Walker Bay Air Floor Hypalon AF240 dinghy and five-horsepower you bought something in board combo. “The draw was cumulative, meaning if in January. The more November or December you were still eligible for the draw says Sean Kennelly, often you bought, the more chances you would have,” how small or big the purchase Managing Director of Island Water World. “No matter was, every buyer had a chance to win”. lived at a destination to shipped the prizes free of charge provided that the winner which Island Water World ships. has seen in a long time. pleted the most extensive yacht refit that the Caribbean After the 35-metre Cantieri Di Pisa where to have her refitted. Bonaire, the captain considered various options as to was the fact that it is Antigua was chosen for many reasons, not least of which such an involved refit. home to the vast range of services required to complete expectations have been sur- Captain Barnaby Dennen was quoted as saying, “My into the project, the quality passed, the staff at Woodstock put their heart and soul large yards in Europe or the and service was superior to many of the better-known time, even working over USA. They did an immense amount of work in a very short Christmas to ensure we met our deadline.” from Antigua. He became the proud owner of a dinghy-outboard combo, worth of a dinghy-outboard combo, He became the proud owner from Antigua. Harbour, Custom Carpentry, at Falmouth is the owner of Phoenix US$3,200. Sprout, St. Paul’s, Antigua. BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Bequia Marina The YachtClub,BequiaMarina, PortElizabeth,Bequia, TEL: (784)458-3420/485-6255FAX:458-3797 Water, Diesel,Ice,BottledWater andDockageavailable. & YACHTSPEOPLESINCE1950 SERVING CARIBBEANFISHERMEN MCOY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT FRONT ST,BEQUIAISLAND Open MondaytoSaturday8:00a.m.4:00p.m. Leatherman Accessories Garmin GPS Icom VHF VISIT USATEITHERBRANCHFORALLYOURFISHINGNEEDS fresh squid&fishbait,knives,foulweathergear,wire, TACKLE SHOP floats, seine,castnets,twines,ropes,lifejackets, SNORKELING &SCUBADIVINGGEAR Rods &reels,hooks,angler’slures,leaders, LULLEY‘S VHF 68,Telephone784-457-3361 E-MAIL: [email protected] emergency flarekits,Igloocoolers St. Vincent&TheGrenadines Look forthe # 1CHOICEINFISHING& snorkels. Weevenhaveprescriptionlensesforthemasks. we wantYOUtosucceed. ing tournament.Wetakeprideinsharingourexpertisewithyoubecause speed ofyourboat,orgoforarodandreeltohelpyouwinthenextfish- get therightscrewswithitonetime. offer awiderangeofhardwareaswellnecessaryaccessoriesandspares. Wander around.Youwillfindthingsyouhavebeenseekingforages.We Hablamos Español sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats, sockets, navigation,charts,guides,marinehardware,blocks,cleats, We movedtoformerSaltyDog-nextPorthole Diving or snorkeling? 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b ” ibb C h i Wir sprechenDeutsch &Repair Penn Service Penn Parts Penn Reels —Continuedonnextpage ward to2011whenthenextBlueWaterrally arrives.” welcome bothgroupsandindividualsat JollyHarbourandweparticularlylookfor- on achallengelikethis,”MarinaManager FestusIsaaccommented.“Wealways ning themainprize. that didNOTgetaway”,withoneofthe youngestentrants,Eddie,agedseven,win- petition, whichincludedcategoriessuch as“Weareahappyship”and“Theone Tourism, gavethewelcomingspeech.The eveningalsosawaphotographiccom- lively localjazzband.GerryDaniels,theYachting OfficerfromtheAntiguaMinistryof rant intheharbourandyachtsmen,womenchildrenwereentertainedby a the 26participatingyachts.ApartywasheldatnewlyopenedAlPortorestau- Cruising RallytothemarinainDecemberandcelebratedasafeAtlanticcrossing for It currentlyflies11aircraftandexpectsasecondjettojointhefleetinApril. maintenance support. islands. Thisexpansionwillincludethesaleoffuel,hangaringvisitingaircraft,and Vincent ontheirownprivatejetscanenjoyjet-handlingservices(FBOs)these Mustique, andtwojetaircraftfortheislandofCanouan. evolved toincludeaircraftmanagement,managingthreefortheislandof in acombinationofscheduledandprivatecharterservices.Thebusinesshas later, SVGAirismovingmorethan100,000peopleyearlythroughouttheCaribbean, be hadthroughouttheGrenadines,whichneededadditionalairlift.Now,20years company (BarefootYachtCharters).Itsoonfoundthattherewasotherbusinessto South America. unrestricted expansionandcommercialrecognitiontooperateintoNorth foremost aviationcompanyinSVGtobefullyre-certified,whichgivesAir ed jetintheEasternCaribbean. its fleetofanewCitationCJ3jetaircraft.Thisisthefirstprivatecommerciallyoperat- 0328, Skypejamespascall,[email protected] process rightthroughtodeliverytheCaribbeanandcommissioning. Yachts andFountainePajotcatamaranscanhandlethecompletepurchase survey andseatrial.Fornewyachtsales,HorizonareproudtobeagentsforBavaria can listtheiryachtforsale,andhaveHorizonmanageallaspectsofthesalesuchas also befullymanaged. yacht isduetobehauledforannualbottompaintingandotherhullwork,thiscan tems, refrigerationrepairs,andthegeneralboat-watchserviceasrequired.If are away,arrangingsuchjobsasinstallationofnewequipmentandelectricalsys- in-water location. agement servicesatPortLouisMarina,atrulyyear-round,well-protected, agement services.Thecompanyisveryhappytoannouncetheextensionofman- Resort andMarinaonthesouthcoastofGrenada,offeringyachtcharterman- St. George’s,Grenada. services locationattheCamperandNicholsonsPortLouisMarinain running theFriendshipSeasonandwewishyouallgreatsuccessinfuture”. ing usthismuchneededdonation.Abigthankyoutotheownersandallstafffor The RotaryClubEast.NevlynJohnsaid,“HowgratefulwearetoLePhareBleuforgiv- Dieter presentedthechequetoLeslieRamdhanny,KeithClarkeandNevlynJohnfrom the GrenadaEyeCareProject,whichofferseyetreatmenttothoseinmostneed. said, “ThankyoutoallatLePhareBleuwhomadethisdonationpossible.” Emergency Centre,whichhousesteenagegirlswhoneedasafehaven.Mrs.Seon Ann SeonofGrenada’sChildWelfareAuthority.Themoneywillhelpfinishthenew to support:TheRotaryClubsofGrenadaortheMinistrySocialDevelopment. — lighthouse ship donated fivepercentofproceedsfromtheirfine-diningrestaurantonboardthe place everyWednesdayeveninginthePoolbarRestaurant. including serviceandtax.TheFriendshipTableprovedsopopularthatitnowtakes Friendship TablewheredinerscouldhelpthemselvestotastylocaldishesforEC$45, offered uniqueperformancesalongwithgreatmenuoffers.Anotherfeaturewasthe Let’s go!SVGAir’snewCitationCJ3jetisatyourservice “Itislovelytoseeagroupoflike-minded peoplejoiningtogetherandembarking Jolly HarbourMarina,Antiguawelcomedthe8thBlueWaterRoundWorld Blue WaterRoundtheWorldRallyatJollyHarbour For moreinformationseeadonpage39. SVG AirhasbecomeaMultifacetedAviationsupportcompanyasofJanuary2010. A furtherspin-offisthatourcustomerswhoarriveinGrenada,CanouanandSt. The companywasstartedwithoneaircrafttoservicethefamily’syachtcharter SVG Airalsoscoredanotherfirstintheaviationindustrybybeingoriginaland Paul Gravelreports:SVGAircelebratesits20thyearinbusinesswiththeadditionto New JetforSVGAir For moreinformationonPortLouisMarinaseeadpage25. For moreinformationcontactJamesPascall,tel(473)439-1000,mobile535- Horizon willalsoofferafullyacht-brokerageserviceatPortLouisMarina.Clients The Horizonteamwillspecializeinthemaintenanceofclients’yachtswhilethey Horizon YachtChartersGrenadahasbeenestablishedfortenyearsatTrueBlue Horizon YachtChartersandManagementhasopenedanewofficeyacht- Horizon YachtManagementatPortLouisMarina,Grenada For moreinformationonLePhareBleuseeadpage17. The RotaryClubsofGrenadawerealsopresentedwithachequefor$2,400towards Le PhareBleu’sChef,MarkBanthorpe,presentedachequeforEC$2,300toLesley- Also fortheFriendshipSeason,DieterandJanasetupFund The mostpopularmonthprovedtobeOctober,whenMusicalFriendshipevenings Continued frompreviouspage Vastra Banken . Dinerscouldchoosewhichgoodcausetheywanted FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 th

2010

- April 5 st (784) 457-3649 Notice of Race Tel: Tel: April 1 & Yacht & Yacht Pre-registration: (J/24 2010 Champion decider) e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: www.begos.com/easterregatta www.begos.com/easterregatta • Racing, Cruising I & II Classes • J/24 One Design Class • ‘Surprise’ One Design Class • Local Double-Ender Races • Crazy Craft Race • Sandcastle Competition BEQUIA REGATTABEQUIA EASTER Seven-year-old Eddie, at left, checks out his prize in the Blue Water Rally photo competition during prizegiving at Antigua’s Jolly Harbour Continued from previous page Continued from Worldwide Routing/Weather Forecasting Company Worldwide Routing/Weather is a weather routing and meteorological consulting firmWeather Routing Inc. (WRI) WRI can also provide To complement the aforementioned “traditional” services, planning outlooks In addition to their forecast services, WRI provides long-range For more information contact [email protected] For more information about the Blue Water Rallies visit www.yachtrallies.co.uk/ For more information about Harbour Marina see ad in Market Place section, For more information on Jolly The Rally now travels on to the Panama Canal after free-sailing various routes Canal after free-sailing various travels on to the Panama The Rally now based out of Glens Falls, New York. WRI prides itself in being the world leader in yachtbased out of Glens Falls, New York. WRI prides itself in being provides customized and indi- weather forecasting, in business for nearly 50 years. WRI of weather features invidualized services for each yacht, providing detailed synopses recommended route (bothplace, as well as a “go” or “delay” recommendation and constraints where applica- based on a vessel’s weather and loading limits and time recommended departuresble), and detailed weather forecasts/outlooks based on forecasts if desired.and routes. Maps and charts can be included with text surveillance. There is free instant severe weather alerts, as well as tropical weather subscribers can gain also a supplemental weather service, SeaWeather, where days), in both graphical access to real-time and forecast information (out to five of SeaWeather are offered to and text format, for any region of the world. Free trials and marinas, and those interested yacht captains, yacht race/regatta organizers, who are interested are under no obligation to subscribe. weeks/months in (typical weather patterns and winds/seas) for future voyages, optimal routing options, advance, to help captains find the place areas for travel, currents are also consid- and best times of year for travel. Factors such as ice and ered when preparing these reports. index.php/blue-water-rally. pages 43 to 45. around the Caribbean and meeting up at the San Blas Islands. and meeting up at around the Caribbean — FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 to anoverallwin,asdidJamesDobbsontheJ/122fromAntigua, Garth SteynskipperingaCatalina36, Connection the coastwasoutofsightforafewhours.DidierRouault’sMelges24, to Gustavia,St.Barths.Littlewindandmuchrainprevailed—soheavythat each raceparticipantswereabletorelaxandplantheirstrategiesforthenextday. as racetowin,andofferedcoursesdesignedprovidebothachallengefun.After days. Theorganizerskeptinmindthatcrewswantedtoenjoytheirweekend,aswell Classes. Challengingcoursestookustothethreeislandsovercourseof Louis. pers’ meetingrunbySMYC’sRobbieFerronandHervéDorvillefromtheMarinaFort tions. Yacht Club—supportedaregattathatstartsand/orfinishesateachofthedestina- Fort Louis,SintMaartenYachtClub,St.BarthClubandAnguillaInternational Barths andAnguilla.Forthesixthconsecutiveyear,fouryachtclubs—YachtClub Louis tocementthealliancebetweenSt.Martin-St.Maartenandneighboring by Stéphane Legendre Promotion and Motion Course del’Alliance: The morningafterregistration,thefirstlegtookusfromSimpsonBay,St.Maarten Registration atSMYConThursday,November26th,2009wasfollowedbyaskip- La Coursedel’AllianceisaninitiativeofMarinaFortLouisandYachtClub The organizingauthoritywastheSintMaartenYachtClub. Competition washeldin , toppedaRacingClassthatincludedtwosisterships.InCruisingClass, Racing, Cruising, Racing/Cruising and Multihull Racing, Cruising,Racing/CruisingandMultihull Buccaneer BeachBar , wonthedayonhisway Lost Horizon French , in at MarinaFortLouis Below: AfterthefinishinSt.Martin,allyachtswereofferednight’sdockagefree Left: LightairsatthestartofSt.BarthstoAnguillaleg and PeterHoutzagerontheMelges24 The evening’sdinnerwashostedattheWallHouserestaurant. Racer/Cruiser ClassandHervéMargolisontheSeacart30, previous daywas at MarigotonFrenchSt.Martin.Theonlychangeinthewinner’scirclefrom Pub. Sleepwasveryshortforsomeparticipants! ning wasmemorable,spentfirstatJohnno’srestaurantandthenthePumpHouse Horizon a wonderfultimeandarereadytoenjoyitagainnextyear. entitled toexpect. priced equipmentandmeetthemanyprofessionalsreadytogiveserviceyouare should comeandenjoyboththeFrenchDutchsides,topurchasereasonably in thehandsofpeopleSt.Martintoachievetheirbusinessgoals.Boaters St. Martinduringthecurrentdifficulteconomicalcontext.Ithinkallassetsare found thatthereisadeepmotivationonthepartofeveryoneconcernedtopromote a groupofjournalistsfromallovertheworldwhatthisareahastooffer.Wewriters offered freedockageatMarinaFortLouisforthenight. ceremony tookplaceatthePlongeoirrestaurant,andallboatsinregattawere Class, andColinPercy’sNonsuch33, Light airsonSaturday’sracefromSt.BarthstoRoadBay,AnguillasawFritsBus The finalday’srace,withatento15-knotbreeze,startedinRoadBayandfinished For fullresultsvisitwww.coursedelalliance.com In conclusion,the20boatsthatjoinedthiseditionofCoursedel’Alliancehad This regattawasalsotheoccasionforTourismOfficeofSaintMartintoshow and Blanca Buccaneer BeachBar positionedthemselvesfortheireventualthreebullets.Theeve- Team CoorsLight reclaimingCruisingClass.Theprizegiving Antares , takeCruisingClass,while movetothetopofRacing Blanca , inMultihulls. Lost FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Lady and also , won the , a Moorings Vivaldi , a Swan 46, took Boundless, Funfactor 8 December 12th, a and AM Akarana Akanara a Dufour 40 and skippered by Dirk Köhn, won a Dufour 40 and skippered The winds were perfect for the first of two round-the- perfect for the first of two The winds were race from Statia The Cup is an informal Rock Regatta saw This fifth running of the Golden For more information visit www.goldenrockregatta.com High Winds for St. Lucia-to-Martinique Race Sean Fuller reports: At 9:00 As the yachts headed off round Pigeon Point, they comparison to the return salute, 13 extraordinarily loud the return salute, 13 extraordinarily comparison to off nearby from the fort that echoed “air bombs” fired Mount Mazinga. Roads held in Fort Oranje buoys races subsequently When the continued his dominance. and Velasquez race was died completely, the second afternoon winds Marine Sir Robert received the Budget cancelled and place aswas a close race for second Trophy. There 52 beat Manhattan on a Harmony Doug Moy’s Team a Dufour 40 by onlyDirk Köhn’s German team aboard That evening’s trophy11 seconds on corrected time. Governor Gittens, followedpresentation was hosted by restaurant on the cliffby a dinner party at Blue Bead The restaurant is namedoverlooking Oranjestad Roads. as currency with the Caribafter the Dutch beads used early colonial days.and Taino Indians during the (37 miles). Though the back to Oyster Pond, St. Martin first boat in was Henk morning breeze failed, the Ligtharts’ Dutch team aboard by a lobster buffet 51.5. The last night was highlighted and live music at Captain Oliver’s. there were teams from some firsts. For the first time The US entrant, Team Germany, St. Kitts and Belgium. 52 Manhattan aboard the Harmony team aboard Bareboat 1 class while a German Marlene, the Bareboat 2 class. two Martiniquan boats. The smallest entry was a St. Lucian J/24 skippered by Edgar Roe. were soon into the teeth of a northeasterly blowing at between 25 and 30 knots. the lead as the boats headed off to Fort de France, a distance of some 25 miles. —Continued on next page reduced fleet of seven boats turned up in squally con- ditions for the start of the St. Lucia to Martinique race series for the Sir John Compton Memorial Trophy. The annual event is held in honour of the late Prime Minister of St. Lucia, a keen yachtsman who served the island for over 30 years. The start was off the St. Lucia Yacht Club in Rodney Bay and the fleet includ- ed two ARC entries, . . Panic L’esperance by Statia

a half-mile off shore, fired 13 shots which was on a mission to purchase Key Largo, , but also first on the beach at Johnno’s. , but also first on the beach The morning of the 16th, 2009 witnessed a reenact- In Statia, Governor Gittens welcomed the more than The Golden Rock Regatta fleet arrives at Statia, part This was Bobby Velasquez’ first appearance in the Velasquez’ first appearance This was Bobby fresh breezes on The annual event began with were scheduled from For the next two days, races ment of the First Salute when the US Coast Guard Cutter from her deck gun. The sounds of those shots paled in Vanden Eynde was forced from the competition by Vanden Eynde was forced the failure of his starboard rudder. 150 sailors and regatta officials at historic Fort Oranje. After the trophy presentation, the governor honored Juul Hermsen, the founder of the regatta, for his efforts in successfully organizing the event and promoting the interests of St. Eustatius. of the Netherlands , every year on November 15th, the day before Statia Day. On November 16th, 1776 Holland became the first country to recognize the United States as a sovereign nation by returning the 13-gun salute from the US brigantine of war, Andrew Doria, and carry back ammunition and supplies to the Continental Army under General George Washington Eustatius, on November 16th, 2009, Sir Robert (Bobby) 16th, 2009, Sir Robert Eustatius, on November Yacht Club, the St. Maarten Velasquez, representing the Governor’s Trophy was awarded Governor Hyden Gittens. The Governor’s Trophy is Gittens. The Governor’s Governor Hyden perfor- boat with the best overall awarded to the Rock races of the annual Golden mance in all five from St. which takes competitors Regatta series, and Statia (St. Eustatius). Maarten to Anguilla praised the accepting the trophy, he regatta and in Maarten support along event and promised more St. years. Velasquez also with his participation in coming Heineken Regatta. won his class in 2009’s St. Maarten run from Great Bay, St. November 13th for the 23-mile Jan Vanden Eynde Maarten to Road Bay, Anguilla. line in his Open 750, was not only first across the Attack of time for the barbecue. Everyone finished in plenty Martin (21 miles) and Road Bay to Grand Case, St. (42 miles). The second from Grand Case to Statia finished well, but race, Road Bay to Grand Case, race was shortened owing to fading winds Sunday’s Case to Great Bay. By by moving the start from Grand causing several racers that time a calm had arrived, to reach Oranjestad in the 15-boat fleet to motor corrected time was Bobby before dark. The winner on 45 F5, Velasquez, racing his Beneteau

Velasquez Takes Overall Prize in Velasquez Takes Overall Prize at Fort Oranje, St. Joe Russell reports: At a ceremony

REGATTA REGATTA NEWS NEWS You rock! Golden Rock, that is. At the trophy presentation, many congratulations for a job well done 5th Golden Rock Regatta 5th Golden Rock Regatta FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 current. again onaclosefetchthankstostrongwest-flowing skies astheboatsheadedbacktoRodneyBay— suffering saildamageduringatack. lowed by and cameinafewminutesahead;thelatterwasfol- 400, managedtosqueezeaheadof approximately fourhourssailing. two tacks.Theywerefollowedby Akarana return legstartedoffsquallywithwindsupto22knots. ing of270degrees.Theweatherforthestart the timewhentheyreachDiamondRockonabear- to roundDiamondRockstarboard.Allboatsrecord starting gun.Needlesstosayhewasn’tovertheline. Cannon, mark ononesidewasarrangedbyEdgarRoe return legtoSt.LuciasawarustyboatasODMand with plentyofwine.Anadhocstartforthe Martinique. AllparticipantsmetforaclassicGalliclunch Grand AnseD’Arlet,abayonthesoutheastsideof from an impromptuperformancebyoneofthemalecrew a traditionallycostumeddancetroupe,enhancedby St. LucianConsulGeneral,KeatsCompton.Therewas a dinnerforparticipants,whichwasattendedbythe the YachtClubdelaMartinique,andhosted repair overnight. in theirgenoabutthecrewmanagedtostitcha damage alongtheway. the finishoffFortdeFrance.Someboatsencountered handicap. Thewindsweregustyandtestingrightto Vaguely Noble on aclosefetch. boats hadtworeefsintheirmainsailsastheyheaded by heavyrainsquallswithgustsupto35knots.Some — The weatherclearedbymid-morningtoleaveclear The returnlegfromAnsed’Arletincludedaprovision The followingdayentailedaleisurelysaildownto The boatsberthedatthedocksprovidedcourtesyof The firstboattofinishwas The fleetsoonencounteredbigrollersaccompanied Continued frompreviouspage Kaiso Akarana who lived up to the boat’s name by firing the wholiveduptotheboat’snamebyfiring wasfirsttoDiamondRockafterputtingin HyTime dressedindrag. , aMartiniquanboatwhichwonon wasthefirsttocrosslineafter whichwaslimpingalongslowlyafter Kaiso Akarana sufferedaten-foottear Kaiso Loose Cannon followedby Loose Cannon , aSovereign Loose Loose .

12-race serieswasofanextremelyhighstandardand Coral CoveYachtClub.Thecompetitionoverthe take partintheinternationalregattaheldatFlorida‘s Wesley Scott.TheytraveledtoMiamionBoxingDay Kelly AnnArrindellandDerekPoonTip,plusLasersailor Seb Godsmark. guidance ofvisitingUKinstructorsSteveJacksonand the eventatTTSAinChaguaramas,Trinidadunder team spenttwoweeksbeforeChristmastrainingfor programme forthenewNationalSailingScheme, international opposition.Aspartoftheinitialtraining Miami thispastChristmas,competingagainsttopclass the OrangeBowlInternationalYouthSailingRegattain Trinidad &TobagoSailingAssociation(TTSA)wentto months. Ateamoftwoboysandgirlsfromthe produced itsfirstinternationalvictoryafteronlytwo Martinique fororganizingtheevent. the St.LuciaYachtClubanddela Delirious, SpinnakersandRainForestSkyRides,to International, Peter&Co,StLuciaRumDistilleries, and thanksgotothesponsors:Heineken,Diamonds the helmtoYachtClub. donated aphotographfeaturingSirJohnComptonat Windward &LeewardBrewery.LadyJaniceCompton Co, andHeinekenbeerwasprovidedcourtesyof Chilean wine,thankstoSt.LuciaDistillersandPeter& each receivedseveralbottlesofBountyRumand Anse D’ArletandDiamondRock.Skipperscrews scoring thefastestcorrectedtimebetweenGrande first prizefor“TheDiamondDash”to won firstoverallandDiamondsInternationalawarded prizes awardedbyLadyJaniceCompton. from St.LuciatoMartiniqueandreturn winning thisyear’sSirJohnComptonMemorialRace Squalls conquered,the The teamconsistedofOptimistsailorsAbigailAffoo, The newTrinidad&TobagoNationalSailingScheme T&T YouthSailorWinsinMiami For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciayachtclub.com All inallagreateventwasenjoyedbyparticipants Prizegiving washeldattheSt.LuciaYachtClubwith Akarana crewcelebrates Loose Cannon Akarana ,

fierce competitiononwindward/leewardcourses. sights ofSt.Croix’sbeautifulNorthShore! races. Leavethosewienersonthegrillandsee supplies) withshortwindward/leeward“sausage” out andsail,ratherthanexhausttheircrews(andbeer with roomforthoselong-leggedbeautiestostretch SCYC HospiceRegattanowoffersdistancecourses were atadisadvantagewhenracingforfun.The February 19ththrough21st. race inthewarm,protectedwatersofBigIsland, those whomightbeoverlookinganopportunityto have addressedtheseconcernsandhopetoreach excuses forwhyracersdon’traceintheirregattas: RegisterNOW! prizegiving onthe27th. Skippers’ BriefingonFriday,February26th,andthe come onboardasthefirstsponsorandwillhost Regatta. HollandHouseBeachHotelinPhilipsburghas Ebbers, formerdirectoroftheSt.MaartenHeineken Martin ClassicYachtClubandracedirectorisMirian around theisland. be arrangedtofollowtheracers,bothbigandsmall, fast butfragilebeachcats.Severalsafetyboatswill the pointsbroughtupwassafety,especiallyfor discuss thetechnicaldetailsofthisnewevent.One where theorganizershadinvitedmultihullownersto Tropical WaveRestaurantatLeGallioninJanuary, and beachcats. classes fortrimarans,catamarans(racingandcruising) Philipsburg asthestartandfinishlocation.Therewillbe Martin MultiHullRegatta,tobeheldFebruary27thwith organizing thefirstclockwiseAroundSt.Maarten-St. (West IndiesEvents)hasannouncedthattheyare forSt.Maarten-St.Martin encyc/bta/evnspwtr.cfm to press. Sunday, January24th,asthisissueof Yacht Cluboffice/bar,tel(246)427-1125. Barbados. EntryformsareavailableattheBarbados had inthegreatwatersandwindofCarlisleBay, from strengthtostrength. and thetrainingprogramme,whichcontinuestogo of Trinidad&Tobagoforhelpingtofundtheteam ing andcompetition.ThanksgototheSportCompany field, gainingjustrewardfortheirhardeffortsintrain- final resultssawallT&Tsailorsinthetopthirdof come infirstplaceaheadofover200othersailors.The series DerekPoonTipputinasuperbperformanceto the raceswerehardfought.InRace9ofOptimist Many skippersofhotshotracingmachinescrave For manyyears,boatsthataregreatforcruising St. CroixYachtClubHospiceRegattaorganizers • Notenoughfreerum • Timebetterspentraisingmoneyforgoodcauses • Needmorefamilytime • Unhappywithclassbreaks • Unabletofindcrew/boat • Tiredof • Tiredofracingwindward/leewardcourses Ellen Sanperereports:Regattaorganizersoftenhear Hate Sausages?NeedCrew?NoExcuses— For moreinformationvisitwww.MultiHullRegatta.com The eventwillbesanctionedbytheSt.Maarten-St. An introductorymeetingwashostedbyPatTurnerat Public relationsandspecialeventscompanyWIE New MultihullRegattaAnnounced For thecompleteschedulevisithttp://axses.com/ The firstraceintheJ/24classwillhavesailedon This year,thereisawholeseasonofJ/24racingtobe Barbados YachtClubAnnouncesJ/24Season,2010 For moreinformationvisitwww.ttsailing.org not racingwindward/leewardcourses —Continued onnextpage Compass goes FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Sailing Sailing Morning and You, perhaps? TOHATSU , as well as a regular contributor to , as well as a regular contributor Pyewacket, Rambler, Titan 15 Pyewacket, Rambler, magazine. to name just a few. Isler is also author of a few. Isler is also author of to name just For more information see ad on page 12. New Name, Location for Puerto Rico Heineken Regatta Carol Bareuther reports: Puerto Rico’s premier yacht Says regatta director, Angel Ayala, “We’ll offer a mix Classes will include CSA Spinnaker Racing, CSA This match up between the two Peters is one that all This match up between the For more information visit www.heinekenregatta.com Until 2011 Grenada Classic Postponed circumstances beyond Fred Thomas reports: Due to For more information contact [email protected] Break the Grenada Round-the-Island Record! The Grenada Round-the-Island Race March 12th Peter Isler is a two-time America’s Cup winner, and two-time America’s Cup winner, Peter Isler is a regatta will move to Palmas del Mar for 2010 and become the Puerto Rico Heineken International Regatta (PRHIR). Known as the Culebra Heineken International Regatta for the past five years, the venue change will welcome sailors to a brand-new facility and re-introduce three days of top-notch rac- ing off Puerto Rico’s southeast shores from March 19th to 21st. of windward-leeward courses for the one-design and racing classes,” says Ayala. “There will be courses with reaches for the cruising classes. We may run a dis- tance race to Vieques for some classes.” He adds, “Palmas del Mar is a beautiful facility. There’s a brand- new yacht club and full marina where sailors will find everything they need.” The 162-slip marina offers state-of-the-art facilities for yachts up to 200 feet. Shoreside accommodations at Palmas del Mar Hotel & Villas include rooms offered at a discounted rate for regatta participants. In addition, there are villas for rent that sleep 12 and come with a private boat slip. Spinnaker Racer-Cruiser, CSA J/24, IC24, CSA Performance Cruiser, CSA Jib & Main, IC24s, Beach Cat and native-built Chalanas. Regatta festivities include a Captain’s Meeting on March 18th, nightly parties, and an Awards Ceremony on March 21st. “We will also host the Puerto Rico International Dinghy Regatta, a two-day event, on March 20th and 21st,” says Ayala. “The Optimists, Lasers and Laser Radials will sail right off the beach.” —Continued on next page eyes will be on, but do not forget the other competi- eyes will be on, but do not Racing Cup, one of tors in the Budget Marine Match ranked 45th as an ISAF whom will be Eugeniy Nikiforov, the Ekaterinburg Cup, a Match Racer placing 1st in in Ekaterinburg, Russia. qualifier for the YAVA Trophy event in 2009 and placed Nikiforov participated in the participants to date are third overall. Other confirmed Marc Fitzgerald and Colin Rathbun, Chris Nesbitt, Jakub Pawluk. Grenada Classic Yacht the organizers’ control, the 4th through 7th, 2010 Regatta scheduled for March Classic yacht aficio- has been postponed until 2011. of next year’s event! nados, stay tuned for news through 14th will bring excitement to the Spice Isle. Who will break the course record of three hours, 54 minutes and two seconds set last year by the trimaran Horizon Region Guadeloupe? will defend his title. Holmberg’s list of sailing accom- title. Holmberg’s list of sailing will defend his in the 1988 with a silver medal plishments is significant, Vuitton a second place in the Louis Olympics and also New Zealand. Holmberg Cup in Auckland, 2007. the 32nd America’s Cup in placed first in Two- five America’s Cup campaigns. participated in sailed World Champion, Isler has time Maxi Class aboard Glory for Dummies World FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water Scaffolding Guadeloupe F.W.I.

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Rambler [email protected] (filters, impellers, belts) Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110 E-mail: will bring an exciting mix to the event, count- GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants In addition, 80 charter boats from both Sunsail and For more information visit www.heinekenregatta.com Peter vs. Peter in the Budget Marine The Sint Maarten Yacht Club confirmed in early The Match Racing Cup, taking place just before the Peter Holmberg, native of St. Thomas and the winner Entry List Grows for 30th St. Maarten The entry list for the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta is George David’s 90-foot Reichel/Pugh designed Second South Grenada Regatta 2010 Second South Regatta of the South Grenada The second edition last South Grenada Sailing Regatta If you missed the see ad on page 17. For more information to set the bar for her competitors. The Moorings have been confirmed. The charter boat fleet is the largest of this event, and organizers work closely with the charter companies, travel planners and individuals to ensure that fair racing and compet- itive sailing are accomplished. Match Racing Cup January that both Peter Isler and Peter Holmberg will compete in the second Budget Marine Match Racing Cup, which takes place on March 2nd. St. Maarten Heineken Regatta (March 4th through 7th), is a great opportunity for sailors already attend- ing the regatta to compete in one more day of rac- ing, and, with cash prizes totaling US$10,000, the event is drawing a lot of attention. of last year’s first Budget Marine Match Racing Cup, Heineken Regatta steadily increasing. The event takes place March 4th to 7th and will include the pre-event Budget Marine Match Racing Cup on March 2nd as well as the Gill Commodores Cup on March 4th. Rambler ing sailing stars from around the world as the crew. With a long list of wins including the 2007 Nordbank Transatlantic Race, 2007 Middle Sea Race, 2008 Buenos Aires to Rio Race as well as setting the course record in the 2009 NYYC Queens Cup, will take place from February 26th through 28th, 28th, from February 26th through will take place Hotel on Bleu Marina & Boutique based at Le Phare family- coast. This is a fun and the island’s south friendly event. all the buzz opportunity to find out what year, take the is about! MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE • SALES • REPAIRS • MAINTENANCE FRED MARINE LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop Continued from previous page Continued from Optimist racing involves the whole family — kids learn Continuum Care, Inc. is the hospice care company Traditional sponsors of the St. Croix International For more information see ad on page 14. The good news is that the SCYC Hospice Regatta web- is that the SCYC Hospice Regatta The good news organizers can’t do The bad news is the regatta Action at last year’s St. Croix International Regatta. This year’s event promises more fun than ever — and all for a good cause everything. Skippers are strongly encouraged — and the crew can help — to go to www.stcroixregatta. com and register their boats online now. They can also view and print the current entry list, Notice of Race and other regatta documents. Sailing Instructions and amendments will be available online during the regat- ta. The Race Committee will attempt to accommo- date any three boats that request a class start. The earlier skippers register online, the better the commit- tee will be able to please them. Registration is free — entry fees aren’t due until February 19th. to sail independently, and parents enjoy family time with the Corinthian comradeship that sailboat racing stimulates. Back by popular demand, an Opti Clinic will be held on February 19th. Click the “Optimist Regatta” tab at www.stcroixregatta.com for informa- tion, and register that Opti sailor now. on St. Croix that provides end of life services to all who need it, regardless of their ability to pay. As part of the National Hospice Regatta Alliance, the SCYC Hospice Regatta aims to raise funds and awareness for hospice care on St. Croix. Racing in the regatta, sponsoring a trophy, donating goods or services, will help to reach the goal of supporting hospice teams on the island. See www.stcroixregatta.com for sponsorship informa- tion. Additionally, the racing class winner will be invited to the National Hospice Regatta Championships. Regatta, Cruzan Rum and Premier Wines & Spirits, have continued their regatta sponsorship, including a lavish welcome party, and the winning CSA Spin-1 skipper gets his/her weight in Cruzan Rum. (The winning Opti skipper gets his/her weight in sports drink.) Running out of rum is next to impossible — we make it here! — W/L rac- Regatta also offers great The SCYC Hospice the local Island Channel, where even ing in the Buck returns to starting line. PRO Sue Reilly dolphins rush the racing in smaller, more homogenous keep the boats the first leg SCYC Hospice Regatta is classes, and the of the CORT series. for place at www.stcroixregatta.com site has a special for boats.for crew and for crew looking boats looking FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 annual Easterevent craft’ atBequia’s boats and‘crazy open sloops,model yachts, locallybuilt There’s racingfor not tomakeadatebeinBequiathisEaster! warm welcomewhereveryougo,there’snoreason Frangipani HotelandBequiaBeachHotel,plusavery Mount Gay,Pepsi,MountainTopSpringWater, from mainsponsorsSVGTourismAuthority,Heineken, Day activities,greathospitalityandgeneroussupport traditional localdouble-enders’three-raceseries,Lay thing forpracticallyeveryoneinBequia’sregatta. “regatta rookies”—ensurethattherereallyissome- Class —speciallytailoredforcruisers,liveaboardsand cruising classes,includingtheever-popularCruisingII Racing ClassentryfromtheFrenchislands. is anticipatedthisEaster,alongwiththeusualstrong a fullturnoutofallthetenormoreMartinicanSurprises than tenyearsago.Nowofficiallywiththeirownclass, Bequia inincreasingnumberssincetheirfirstvisitmore “Surprise” racingboats,whichhavebeencomingto a newOneDesignClass—forthe25-footFrench Caribbean Champion. will alsobecrownedthefirst-everJ/24Southern the overallwinnerofBequiaJ/24six-raceseries region. In2010,thiscommitmentwillbearfruitwhen in parallelwiththerisingpopularityofJ/24s Bequia SailingClubtocontinuallydevelopthisclass hottest class,thankstothecommitmentof courses, isnowarguablyBequiaEasterRegatta’s 2005, andsince2006withitsownspeciallydesigned ticular, theJ/24Class,firstintroducedinBequia in theyachtracingandcruisingcommunity.Inpar- emphatically confirmedBequiaRegatta’spopularity over thelongEasterweekend,April2ndthrough5th. world tobeinBequiaforthefourdaysofracingaction with visitorsandcompetitorscomingfromalloverthe grown intooneoftheregion’sbest-attendedregattas, with theBVISpringRegattainTortola. with theSt.CroixInternationalRegattaandconcludes Ocean RacingTriangle,orCORTSeries,whichbegins — For moreinformationseeadonpage11 Add tothatthespectacleoffiercelycontested But Bequiaisnotallaboutsweatandspinnakers!Two Bequia EasterRegatta2009alsosawthecreationof Last year’srecord-breakingturnoutof50yachts Over last29years,theBequiaEasterRegattahas Bequia EasterRegattaStartsApril2nd For moreinformationvisitwww.prheinekenregatta.com The PRHIRmarksthesecondlegofCaribbean Continued frompreviouspage on April28th/LayDay)istoallowthecrewsbig Race onApril25th,andtheRoundRedonda on April23rd,the three-race series(theGuadeloupetoAntiguaRace to attractsomequalitycompetition.Theaimofthis a keyelementofAntiguaSailingWeekandisstarting following anearlymorningbreakfastbriefing. with theserieskickingoffonSaturdayafternoon Beach Bash.Therewillalsobeanextraday’sracing, reintroduction ofLayDay,andtheDickensonBay some oftheevent’straditionalfeaturessuchas come upwithanewlytweakedformat,incorporating classic havelistenedtothecompetitors’viewsand of thebestyet.OrganizersthisannualCaribbean ing placeApril24ththrough30th,promisestobeone lenges, the43rdeditionofAntiguaSailingWeek,tak- AntiguaSailingWeek2010 visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com yachting world. regular placeonthecalendarofinternational Barthélémy councilwouldliketoseethiseventtakea love beautifulboatswillenjoythisevent.TheSaint newest racer-cruisers,toensurethatallthosewho yachts andthespectacularmodernapproachof bringing togetherthetraditionalvaluesofclassic Demarchelier, theVoilesdeSaintBarthwillalsobe says François. from aroundtheworldcanhavefuntogether,” many specialeventsashoresothehundredsofsailors 1970s attractedupto200sailboats.“Weareplanning the island,eversinceLoulou’sregatta,whichin latest exampleinalonghistoryofyachtingeventson of specialeventsattheSaintBarthYachtClub,is member oftheSaintBarthTouristBoardandincharge from April6thto11th. hulls. TheinauguralVoilesdeSaint-Barthwillberun yachts, superyachts,racer-cruisers,andracingmulti- a newsailingeventopentoclassicandmodern Board andtheSaintBarthYachtClubaresettingup For seriousracers,thebigboatOceanSeriesisnow Neil Forresterreports: Big Names,NumbersExpectedat For moreinformation Under theauspicesofphotographerPatrick This event,withthebackingofFrançoisTolède, The localcouncilinSaintBarthélémy,theTourist New Event:VoilesdeSaint-Barth Yachting World

Despite currentfinancialchal-

RoundtheIsland WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED event, resultinginadecreasingfleet,the… racers hadtroubletakingtimeoffworkforafive-day Marie GalanteandLesSaintes. will linkthearchipelagoofGuadeloupe,Desirade, legs of23,37,41,30and27nauticalmilesrespectively for thisyear’seditionoftheTourdeGuadeloupe.Five the endofApril—shouldcapturemorenewentries Regatta inearlyMarchandAntiguaSailingWeekat between thetwogiants—St.MaartenHeineken visit www.sailingweek.com final Friday. the grandprizegivinginNelson’sDockyardon Shirley HeightspartyonThursdaynight,andofcourse beach partyatPigeonPoint,andthelegendary Caribbean streetpartyontheTuesday,aLayDay the welcomepartyonfirstSaturdaynight,a Dickenson BayBashandJollyHarbourpartybutalso revving upwithplanswellunderwayfornotonlythe shortage ofcompetition. company’s Farr65sandBeneteau40.7s,there’llbeno Couvreux skipperingSafePassageSailingcharter sional sailorsBrianThompson,SallyBarkowandDoogie charter yachts,andthelikesofinternationalprofes- sponsors OnDeckreportinga‘sellout’aboardall15 ASW, andwithchartercompaniessuchaseventsilver yachts willcountAntiguaSailingWeekasLeg10. 40-plus Britishforcesservicepersonnelaboardthe completed Leg9oftheirround-the-worldtour.The Global Challengeyachtswhichwill,bythen,have Services Transglobe67-footsteel-hulled,formerBT Week 2010willbethearrivalofthreeBritish impact ontheracecoursein2010. the Caribbeanlastyearandlookssettomakeabig Series resultfrom2009.” to seeingifwecanequal,notbetter,ourOcean age ishigh.Iamthereforeverymuchlookingforward powerful boatsisnotidealbecausetheriskofdam- Antigua. Tryingtoraceroundthecansinthesefast, a gemandexactlywhatthebigboatsailorswantat Antigua OceanSeries.Leesaid:“TheSeriesis defend theiroverallwinningtitleofthefirst-ever Cookson 50 Dublin, Irelandandhiswinningteamaboardthe ed theirinterestinthe2010event.AdrianLeefrom mark elapsed-timeracerecord,havealreadyindicat- Redonda Racelastyear,andestablishedabench- Farr 115, foot supermaxi, compete inthat,too. Antigua SailingWeekpointsforthosewhowantto Race ontheSundaywillcounttowardsoverall Swan 90, firmed hisplaceonthestartlinewithstunningnew to watchoutfor.DaniloSalsifromItalyhasalsocon- team ofBritishprofessionalsailors,willbeanotherboat The resultsofthe option tocompeteinallthreeorindividualraces. series prizes,whichmeanscompetitorshavethe all threeraces,individualraceprizes,andoverall ASW. Therewillberecord-breakingopportunitiesin enjoy aselectionoflong-distanceoceanracesat as theRORCCaribbean600race,opportunityto peting insomeoftheotherCaribbeanregattassuch racing yachts,manyofwhomwillhavebeencom- After organizersnotedlastyearthatmanywould-be A newearly–Apriltimeslotstrategicallyspaced New Dates,CoursesforRoundGuadeloupeRace For moreinformation On shore,Antigua’slegendarypartysceneisalready With suchavastarrayofcompetitorssigningupfor An interestingadditiontothefleetatAntiguaSailing Niklas Zennstrom’sJV72, Some ofthekeyplayers,suchasMikeSlade’s100- Sojana DSK Pioneer Lee OverlayPartners , whichwontheinauguralRound ICAP Leopard Yachting World . Thisyachtmadeherdebutin Ran —Continued onnextpage , withastar-studded , andPeterHarrison’s RoundtheIsland will alsobebackto FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 VHF CH 16 phone 473 444 2400 PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED www.lepharebleu.com MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS WATER, ICE, [email protected] CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE CARIBEE BATIK ... 26. -28. Feb 2010 REGATTa the south coast of grenada of grenada the south coast AND that‘s not all! not AND that‘s

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1992 MAGELLAN GEOGRAPHIX SANTA BARBARA, CA out of Barbados with 19 points from placing third with 13 points from five in first place with 29 points from five tour- Legacy Pair A Dice Hard Play II Le Phare Bleu Marina Le Phare of Guadeloupe and from the northern side Marina & Yachtclub Marina & - 60 slips for boats up to 120 feet and 15 draft - Customs & Immigration Water, (50/60Hz), - 230/110V Wi-Fi Webcam, - Showers, Lounge, Pool, Restaurants, Bar - Fuel & Gasoline - Minimarket, Car Rental, Laundry - Hurricane Moorings Continued from previous page Continued from Fishing Lines VI GAME FISHING CLUB AND came early to the Boys & Girls Club of the Virgin Carol Bareuther reports: Christmas supported the Boys & Girls Club of the Virgin “We are proud to have financially ways throughout the VIGFC members also support the Boys & Girls Club in many of the annual July Open Jeffrey Kreiner, VIGFC Board of Director and chairman also on the Board of In October, VIGFC vice president, Nick Pourzal, who is says, “We’ve donated Richard Doumeng, chairman of the board of the VIHTA, Club of the , Julie Landreneau, executive director of the Boys & Girls has been estab- The Boys & Girls Club of the Virgin Islands, a 501 C(3) organization, 2009 T&T FISHERMEN DOMINATE REGIONAL TOURNAMENTS IN & Tobago continued to dom- Steven Valdez reports: Game fishermen from Trinidad Billfish Circuit Championships The final results for the prestigious Southern Caribbean The courses have also recently The courses have see ad on For more information This year’s new series of courses This year’s new series of courses eliminates the problematic legs to eliminates the problematic legs three tournaments. The T&T teams dominated the rest of the top positions, with three tournaments. The T&T teams dominated the rest Captain George Bovell of Team naments. Second place went to Team Tournaments. A total of 123 teams/boats entered in all the qualifying regional tour- naments, with boats from Trinidad and Tobago, Barbados, Grenada, Martinique, St. Lucia, Guadeloupe, the United Kingdom, Antigua and the United States participat- ing. Of these, only 19 qualified for the 2009 Southern Caribbean Billfish Circuit with the minimum of three circuit tournament entries each. TOURISM ASSN. DONATE TO BOYS TOURISM ASSN. DONATE TO & GIRLS CLUB when members of the Virgin Islands Game Fishing Club Islands’ St. Thomas location Hotel & Tourism Association (VIHTA) presented a (VIGFC) and the US Virgin Islands $25,000 from the VIGFC and $25,000 from the VIHTA — check totaling US$50,000 — Party at the Oswald Harris Court Community during the Club’s annual Christmas Center on December 23rd. Islands for at least 10 years,” says Sue Boland, VIGFC President. six to 18 years, to fish in year. This includes hosting all the kids, ranging in age from encompassed the donation the annual July Open Kids’ Tournament. This year, it also the gifts over succes- of nearly a hundred toys from VIGFC members who brought sive weeks when members met for Thursday Game Nights. $25,000 through this year’s Billfish Tournament (JOBT), spearheaded the raising of of the year, and the longest 46th annual JOBT. This is the fishing club’s largest event started in 1964. It attracts annually held angling contest in the Virgin Islands, which the tournament’s chief many local and visiting anglers whose donations benefit beneficiary, the Boys & Girls Club of the Virgin Islands. (VIHTA), challenged the Directors of the US Virgin Islands Hotel & Tourism Association the Boys & Girls Club. “They VIHTA to raise funds to match the VIGFC’s donation to more clubs on St. Thomas. succeeded in two months,” says Pourzal. “We need three takes money to run Space is available in other housing communities, but it the program.” campaign for several funds to the Boys & Girls Club through our annual gift-giving the VIGFC, we decided to years. This year, when we received the challenge from pool our resources and create a bigger impact.” carry out activities for our 60 says, “We are grateful for the donation. It allows us to enrichment activities such as young people, which includes tutoring after school to art, steel pan and games.” to St. Thomas, there are lished in the Virgin Islands for more than 35 years. In addition Islands Clubs are part of Clubs in Christiansted and Frederiksted, St. Croix. The Virgin Georgia, whose mis- the Boys & Girls Clubs of America, headquartered in Atlanta, needy, to reach their full sion is to enable all young people, especially those most potential as productive, caring, responsible citizens. Caribbean inate the regional game fishing tournaments in the Southern for the year 2009. put Captain Gerard De Silva of — Easter holi- this year to coincide with the made to time the regatta …decision was held in May. event was formerly days. The 30-year-old to be been changed more user-friendly. page 13. FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 moorings oratanchorwhenwewentby. One catamaranandseverallocalpowerboatswereon could askatthePorttogetpermissionanchorhere. book saysthisplaceisreservedforswimming,butyou took aquickdetourintoSouthFrigateBay.Theguide- and motoredalongthecoastline,headingnorth.We the cruiseshipportinBasseterre.WeleftBallastBay Customs oncewegotanchoredclosertotheirofficesat there arenocruiseshipsintownorafterdark. Don’t expectmuchtrafficonthispartoftheislandif these iftheyaren’tfullalreadyandheadintotown. this endoftheisland.Youcouldprobablycatchone are about,bringingtouriststotheremotebeacheson traffic ontheroad.Ifacruiseshipisinport,manytaxis island isstillmostlyundevelopedandthereisn’tmuch the securityguardthatpatrolsarea.Thispartof They wereaccommodating,sayingtheywouldinform to leavetherentalcarovernightintheirparkinglot. Harbour Office([800]881-7180)andaskedpermission Christophe Harbourprojectsowecalledthe end ofthedinghydock.Thisareaisalsonowpart he willpickyouupatthesmallparkinglotright happy toarrangeacarorjeeprentalforcruisersand Winston, atBull’sEyeCarRental([869]465-5656)is can orchestrateyourshoreexcursionsfromhere. not planningongoingintothePortZantemarina,you where youcangainaccesstothemainroad.Ifare neatly landscapedbuildingonyourright. leave yourdinghyandwalkuptheroadtosmall point. Thereyou’llfindasmalldockwhereyoucan heading overtoWhiteHouseBayjustaroundthe You cancheckouttheplansatinfocenterby course andadiversearrayofresidentialdevelopment. community thatwillincludeafull-servicemarina,golf peninsula ofSt.Kittsandhaveplannedoutagrand Developers haveboughtalmosttheentiresouthern this willbetheentrancetoChristopheHarbour. the entranceisblockedbyafloatingbarrier.Oneday large saltpondjustafewmetresinland.Unfortunately, along adredgedcutthatservesastheentranceto and youneedtheextraweightIsuppose!Wepassed ging thedinghyupon,butperfectifyourholdisempty lined withroundrocksofallsizes.Notgreatfordrag- Ballast Bayisaptlynamed.Thewholeshoreline dinghy outforourfirstclose-uplookoftheisland. zily, funnelingdownthesteepslopes. water niceandflat.Thewind,however,cangustcra- several highhills,theswelliskeptout,leaving ashore. Itisagreatspottoanchor:tuckedamong of St.Kittsseveraltimesbefore,buthadnotgone between NevisandthesouthshoreofSt.Kitts. It wasafabuloustripallthewaythroughgap ors knowthisisararesituationthatmustbesavored. — downwindwithfollowingseas,even!Caribbeansail- downwind jaunttoSt.Kittsinstead.Yes,that’sright We tookthesmallweatherwindowthatalloweda to cooperate,wecouldseeitwasn’tgoinghappen. Still flyingouryellowflag,weplannedtocheckin White HouseBayisalsothefirstplaceyou’llfind We droppedthehookingreatholdingandtook We hadanchoredinBallastBayonthesouthcoast After waitinginAntiguaaweekforthewindandseas OUR so fast,”theweathersaid. “This timeforsure,”wesaid.“Not sights weresetonMontserrat. —Continued onnextpage St. Kittshasplentytointerestthesailingvisitor From thehubofBasseterretown,above,toremote(atleastfornow)WhiteHouseBay,below, byMichelleFleming Don’t MissSt.Kitts

DESTINATIONS FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 St. Kitts is the place to rent a jeep. We spent hours St. Kitts is the place to rent the west end of the Take the road that leads around Horseracing has been Feel like going to the races? A couple of days in the marina had somehow turned We checked out of Customs and let them know that So cruisers, don’t hesitate to include a trip to St. Kitts has a quiet beauty and a unique feeling. As we beauty and a unique Kitts has a quiet peaks noticed how the rugged volcanic drove along we in the sea. We smooth slopes that end give way to vast Batiks at the usual spots: Caribelle stopped at all Rawlins Brimstone Hill Fort, Romney Manor, Plantation — Design Gallery, Ottley’s Plantation, Kate The south- places in a stunning setting. all interesting area around you past the major resort ern route takes You’ll then out onto the peninsula. Frigate Bay and Bay and anchorages at White House pass by the the Great Salt Pond and Ballast Bay on your way to Major’s Bay. the Nevis ferry terminal at tracks and old sugarcane exploring dirt roads, sand owns most of the sugar- farm roads. The government to trespass onto pri- cane fields, so you are unlikely found to be well marked. vate property — which we the steepest parts of the You’ll want a 4X4 to tackle sections if the weath- trails and there can be muddy er’s been wet. Hill. It’s a beautiful, airport and then up past Monkey track that meanders mostly paved but little-traveled in the sugarcane through the rainforest, emerging You’ll see a section marked fields just north of Cayon. maps. We never did “Jack in the Box” on the tourist but it definitely wasn’t figure out what that meant, or french fries. anything to do with fast food a 47-year hiatus and they reinstated in St. Kitts after are bringing it back in style. Beaumont Park is a brand-new racetrack and entertainment complex where they plan to have thoroughbred horse racing on an ongoing basis next year. We arrived at the racetrack just in time to watch the preview running of colts, geld- ings and fillies in four exciting and close races. The horses and jockeys hailed from across the West Indies and as far away as Ireland. The excitement starts when the horses are presented in the Winner’s Circle. You get a chance to check out the competitors — both horse and rider trotted out in full racing silks. It seemed a bit odd, but there was no betting at these races, so we just picked our favorites hoping to win bragging rights. Once the horses reached the starting gate, the local band stopped playing and two announcers took over the microphone calling the race. The horse I picked to win, Gold Deposit, was left behind right at the start. No matter, with an hour or more between races I had plenty of time to decide on the next winner. Wear your Sunday hat or your favorite bling because the races attract one well-dressed crowd. into almost a week. You can afford to do that at Port Zante because rates here are reasonable. Our six-day stay cost us less than US$125, including power and water. we would be at anchor in Ballast Bay before moving on. The next day the Port Authority boat pulled up and requested our documents. The officials were friendly and wanted to know all about our stay in St. Kitts. We told them we were impressed with the island and would definitely be back. Kitts on this year’s itinerary. You’ll want to add this place to your “don’t miss” list. Voyageur M92B M135 M225Ti Sabre M225Ti Terminator, Gasmoney, , and our friends’ ! We joined the traffic on the Bonanza Blessed and Besides not rolling all night, another great thing Winston warned us not to leave the marina too early , rolling gunnel to gunnel. A night or two in the main drag around nine o’clock and headed north. St. main drag around nine o’clock and headed north. St. through the shopping area and past the bar with the through the shopping area and past the bar with the best deal on ! After clearing Customs, we parked at some comfy bar stools and watched our boat, C marina was quickly and easily justified. about staying in the marina is its location. Downtown Basseterre is at your doorstep and it is a happening place. During the day the town is bustling with cruise ship passengers, taxi drivers, shoppers and vendors; everybody is coming and going. Later in the evening we heard singing nearby. Christmas was coming and we were treated to live carol music in the Circus. The Circus is what the main roundabout in town is called. You can’t miss it: a large green clock that is also a water fountain marks the spot. Look up to the second- floor level and you’ll see a couple of places to eat and drink and watch the action. We checked out Stonewalls, down Princess Street, just off the Circus, for dinner. We lucked into a fixed menu featuring Asian-style cui- sine and it was delicious. in the morning on our round-the-island drive. Buses are on the road in force for the morning commute, and you don’t want to mess with Jah Rule Call Parts & Power for your nearest dealer: (284) 494 2830 www.partsandpower.com

This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out 225 hp. By comparison, our nearest competition takes that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour the M225Ti 3300 rpm or higher, versus the competition’s TBO) and quieter operation. The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo An integral plate-type oil cooler combines fewer hoses charger gives better performance at lower rpms. with longer life and better efficiency. outstanding marinization, excess hoses and belts have been engineered away and With Perkins’ everything has easy access for stress-free maintenance. The Perkins Sabre M225Ti is designed to replace the Perkins more than 22% additionalM200 and M235 and provides available in the same package. horsepower Continued from previous page The Customs and Immigration Office is located in Port Zante refers to a large area of the waterfront The Deep Water Port is right around the corner and 22% more (sea) horses the cruise ship terminal building. It’s just a short walk the cruise ship terminal building. It’s just a short walk that includes the marina, the cruise ship dock, and a that includes the marina, the cruise ship dock, and a multi-building shopping area. It is brand new and some parts are still under construction. The marina is small and friendly. Slips for sailboats have finger piers that are around 15 feet long and boats are tied either bow or stern in, with lines to pilings. We pulled the dinghy in on the breakwater side of the first dock, which houses the fuel dock. There are some large rocks in the water, so be careful coming in here. Charles, the assistant dock manager welcomed us and gave us information on the marina and Customs. we ventured in past the Port Office and by the Coast we ventured in past the Port Office and by the Coast Guard Station. No yachts were anchored there, but there is plenty of room to do so. Getting to the shore is an issue though. The entire area is lined with large boulders and we could not see a spot where a dinghy could be brought to shore. We carried on to the anchorage indicated on the charts, right beside the cruise ship docking area. We set the anchor and waited out a squall before launching the dinghy. Lots of wind chop, some left over raindrops, wake from the ferries, and a general rolling swell made the dinghy ride into the marina an adventure in ways to get wet. The Port Zante marina puts the town, Customs clearance and access to inland exploration just steps from the boat The Port Zante marina puts the town, Customs clearance — FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20

places anadditional30to40yardsormorebyfilling from thehighwatermark,hasbeenextendedinmany The originalshorelineofUtila,onlyafewyardsdeep ously augmentedtheirbeachfrontby“makingland”. locals toohavebeenbuildingforsometime: for theirstateside-sized down themangrovesandclearcuttinggroundcover building outoftownmostlyalongthecoast,mowing backpackers/divers. Abacos, orCarriacou,Bequia,andpopularwith It’s apleasantislandtendingalongthelinesof the moderngalleonsbearingcashintheirpockets. are diveshopsandrealtors,bothwithaneyetoward 8,000 people.SpecialtoUtilaandtheBayIslands the sizeappropriatetoaplacewithmaybe7,000 the usualparaphernaliaofmodernlife,butsmall, stores andgroceries,cellphoneATMs,all There’s aferrydock;that’showeverythinggetshere. to mixthingsup,theoccasionalpickuptruckorvan. carts, ATVs,bicycles,strollers,skateboards,and,just road runsalongtheshorefortrafficconsistingofgolf ing bikesandIhadaleisurelyclimbofPumpkinHill. wide. Werodearoundagoodlyportionofitonourfold- and-a-half mileslongandnotmorethanthree chart describesit,lowandswampy.It’sabouteight- most oftheislandhasalimestonebase,andis,as Utila hassignsofvolcanicactivityatPumpkinHill,but underground mountainrange,fringedbycoralreefs. Dulce. It,liketheotherBayIslands,ispartofan

Tel: 8095235858Visit:marinazarpar.com ContactMARINAZARPARVHFChannel 5email:[email protected] DESTINATIONS For morethanacentury,islandershavecontinu- Up thehillisvillageproper,whilegringosare And therearerestaurantsandbars,hardware The townofUtilahastwoparts:themainconcrete T

Utila, BayIslandsofHonduras ES first oneyoucometosailingfromtheRio which Utilaisthenearesttocoast,and here arethreeBayIslandsofHonduras, Zar-Par Marina Ma FREEDominicanRepublic CruisingGuideat: Za casas . Butapparentlythe harbor aVenetianeffect—eventhoughthecostis firma andtheprocessgoeson—givingportionsof feet ofwatersome60or70yearsagonowsitonterra coral. Housesthatwerepoisedonpilingsovereight in fencedrectanglesofwaterwithrefuseandbroken • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24 hoursecurity • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings

by AnnWestergard

www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com ALL PHOTOS: ANN WESTERGARD ANN PHOTOS: ALL Seahorse hotel/restaurant/bar Below right:Worthadetour—theeye-dazzlingJade Below left:Themainroad Left: ‘There’saferrydock;that’showeverythinggetshere’ areas hasbeenpursuedinlikemanner,one high inmoneyandlabor.Land-makingtheswamp artsy,” saidDoug.“Iseemtobealittleconservative.” pentry aswell.“Makesmewanttogohomeandget grottoes andencrustations,butthecabinscar- erty isariotofcolorandtexture,notjusttheglass I’m told,glassbeadartistsfromIsrael,theentireprop- restaurant/bar calledtheJadeSeahorse.Ownedby, she finallysaid“Don’tyouspeakEnglish?” for somethinginSpanish,andasshewasshowingme, but usetheothertwo.ItriedaskingaGarifunawoman Honduras. Ithinktheyhavealanguageoftheirown, whence theyhavespreadtoBelizeandcoastal the 1790sanddumpedinBayIslands,from removed fromSt.VincentintheEasternCaribbean presence —thesearetheindigenouspeopleforcibly only SpanishorEnglish.Andthenthere’saGarifuna the BayIslands,butwestillmetpeoplewhospoke changed untilQueenVictoriadiedin1901. said thatsomeresidentsdidn’trealizeanythinghad Honduras tookformalpossessionaround1860,itis and severalcameviatheCaymanIslands.Although and McNab,BushCooper,JacksonThompson, of the1800s;alotsettlershadnameslikeJones that theBayIslandswereBritishduringearlypart pretty andpicturesqueformofit.Cometofindout had somethingtodowithit. coming tosuspectthatthepresenceofno-see-’ums they couldhavethehillside,noworthen.ButIam anyone wouldchoosethisdamp Utila’s earliestBritishsettlement.Can’tfigureoutwhy porch isadock.This,I’mtold,wasinfactthesiteof pilings overlandbarelyabovesealevel,andevery Pigeon Cays.Buildingshuddletogetheroncrooked between Utilaandacay-communityatSucSuc anchored mess ofthemainharbor,myhusband,Doug,andI its originthroughreclamation. the communitybeingnamedHollandtocommemorate EastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingoand 7miles • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance One oftheneatestplacesI’veeverseenisahotel/ Gradually mainlandHonduranshavecomeoutto Another surprisewasbeinggreetedinEnglish,a Hiding fromasouthandwestwindthatmade Galivant, The DominicanRepublic's newest marinacatering 18.25.50N 69.36.67W cruising yachtsmen our Valiant40,forafewdays to theneedsof pied-à-terre barrio when in FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

BOSHOFF , carvings, and strings of beads, often , carvings, and strings of beads, molas a hand-stitched, rectangular, multi-layered, a hand-stitched, rectangular, mola, (long u), to show their ulus Sometimes, like today, we watch islands miles away receive the gift of the Sometimes, like today, we are becoming more and more “Westernized”. The Kuna, native to these islands, They are wonderful people and my wish is to help them all, which we try to They are wonderful people and my wish is to help them who have vivid Out here we make our own entertainment. Having friends soon-to-be husband. Another cruising friend had his sister visit with her to beat, the seasons Although our time in the San Blas Islands will be hard There are little islands everywhere. No marinas, no high-rises, no problem! more heavy squalls. Sometimes the squalls bring heavy wind and/or heavy bring heavy wind and/or Sometimes the squalls more heavy squalls. without a tanks with water. Being the rain — it lets us fill our rain. We love few and places to refill the tanks are is a big disadvantage as watermaker here an easy task! far between and it’s not always and thunder attack. One member of our cruising gods as rain, wind, lightning not an uncommon occurrence. This resulted community had the boat struck, “fried”. Now they will travel to a marina, a six- to in all instrumentation being they will go by bus or cab to Panama City to try ten- hour trip, and from there be necessary to have parts flown in, or they might and get new parts! It might States to purchase them. It isn’t always easy to actually have to fly out to the It is convenient when someone visiting the States obtain what you need here. part. That is a rare occurrence however. So far, can return with the necessary being hit by lightning this season. Thankfully, we have heard of four boats injuries! there haven’t been any physical refusing to accept new ways and technol- There are a few island communities ogy. I say good for them! The multi-colored picture of familiar animals, stories, or geometric shapes are cre- multi-colored picture of familiar Visitors love to buy them for framing, or for making ated and sold by the Kuna. for themselves or to give as gifts. The Kuna pillow covers, placemats, etcetera, child they can find — come in their dugout boats — Mom, Dad and every pitiful called even before an arriving yacht’s anchor has touched the water. Once you say even before an arriving yacht’s “sorry, not today”, they move on to the next boat. the seamstresses, fish do as best we can. We carry extra reading glasses for suntan lotion for hooks for the fishermen, crayons and paper for the children, albinism in the world), the albinos (the Kuna have one of the highest rates of of the smallest child. and sometimes a little candy finds its way into the hands only problem is that A few Kuna have found the glory of the cell phone. The rare generator, so the there is no electricity on the islands, except for the very handed six cell phones cell phones cannot be charged. It isn’t unusual to be by some darling child to be charged on the boat. couple got my captain imaginations and a variety of talents helps. One such the calluses on their and others to pull the guitars out of storage, build up been entertained along fingers and play whenever possible. Many a Kuna has by a Kuna friend on the way now by “Los Gringos” as they were named the women cooked a Nargana Island. On Mametupu, Los Gringos played and new Kuna friends. The conch chowder to die for, which was shared with our playing! They even men- Kuna provided their version of bread and more guitar tioned us in a song. Can’t get much better than that. Kuna dancers, outfits This resulted in a mock Kuna wedding, complete with up to watch the affair, and ceremony. The whole sailing community showed by Los Gringos. What a enjoyed yet another meal, drink, and music provided wonderful experience for sailors and Kuna alike! we have aging, ailing change and so do we. Like many of our sailing friends, lives come to an end. parents at home in the USA who need our TLC as their Therefore, we will slowly travel back to the States to arrive sometime in the coming spring. There are many adventures ahead as we travel up the western Caribbean island chain. We have heard there are many beautiful islands and towns up the coast. We are looking forward to each and every one. are loving all of it! Kids visiting a yacht for fun in half an ulu

CONNELLY-LYNN Coconut trees, dugout Coconut trees, ‘ulu’ canoes and thatched houses — pure San Blas by Linda Hutchinson CONNELLY-LYNN There and Back Again… Again… Back and There Islands San Blas The S/V Sandcastle

he San Blas Islands offer so much, and so little. What one experiences he San Blas Islands offer so important to each individual. The captain, here depends on what is Roger, and crew, Linda, aboard Here during the middle of the rainy season, we have experienced more and Here during the middle of the rainy season, we have Between our boat and the ocean is a reef that extends for miles and miles Between our boat and the ocean is a reef that extends A friend of ours who owns a catamaran actually had one of the big rays land A friend of ours who owns a catamaran actually had one We wake each morning to beautiful skies and white sand beaches. Little We wake each morning to beautiful skies and white Oh, and last but far from least, the San Blas islands host a great sailing Oh, and last but far from T

just waiting to share its hidden splendor with the adventurous snorkeler. The just waiting to share its hidden splendor with the adventurous and lulls us to sleep waves crash endlessly with a roar that calms us all day apart. They aren’t more nightly. There are little islands everywhere, only hours part; some even have than a couple of football fields long and wide for the most they are forbid- freshwater springs. The coconut trees bear coconuts, although and selling them. Pretty den to all but the Kuna whose livelihood is collecting green stems. The white flowers bloom out of the low green foliage like stars on a comfortable hammock sand beach waits for the weary to rest upon it, or in wood and make a fire, strung between two coconut trees. The hearty gather friends, a guitar, and a cook a fresh-caught lobster and then settle back with repairs to the boat, song or two. Laughter abounds as stories of snorkeling, around. news from home or the almost daily squall are passed on the boat’s trampoline in the middle of the night. Imagine how that would on the boat’s trampoline in the middle of the night. Imagine the bow of your boat! be, waking to the noise of a huge ray flailing around on without hurting the What a chore the crew had getting it back into the water ray or themselves! terns hit the water endlessly, aiming for the multitude of tiny fish that hide in terns hit the water endlessly, aiming for the multitude with the zigzag crown it the shade of the boat. A remora, looking quite dapper to catch any morsel wears, shoots out from its hiding place under the boat wingspan hurls thrown there. Off to the side a spotted ray with a four-foot below us are gray and itself out of the water as it chases a tasty meal. Also nurse shark, black rays, the occasional turtle, mackerel, ocean triggerfish, pass by on their way barracuda, tuna and blue runner, to name a few, that through the anchorage. community. I can’t say enough about the group of people we have met. Roger community. I can’t say enough in pursuit of whatever we find. Other cruisers and I move from island to island neighbors is ever-changing and from all over the do the same, so our mix of those who stay put. They care for the island, know world. Of course, there are who have passed the rules (and there are rules), relay info about friends we settle for a day, through before us and just make us comfortable when that says, “We’ll week or month — sort of like the stateside hotel commercial keep a light on for you.” Unlike the busy Eastern Caribbean islands with their towns, shopping, regat- Unlike the busy Eastern Caribbean and boat-parts supplies, the San Blas con- tas, cruise ships, ample grocery trees, reefs and Kuna Indians! sists of weather, sand, coconut

DESTINATIONS

FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 the pilotwillnag.)Theytiedusupatbothsideswith you aretransiting“centrelock”,keepinthecentreor is tocatchthemandtieontothe125-footlines. boat fromatopthecanalwall.Theline-handlers’job dants, twooneachside,threwmonkeyfistsontothe your boat. our slotcameup.Abitterrifying,butokayifyouknow ing 1,000-foot-long,mile-highcommercialshipsuntil The advisorhadascheduleandwewoveabout,dodg- also spokeperfectRussian.Veryinteresting.) spyer,” shekeptsaying.OurfirstPanamanianadvisor was clearlyaspy.(“Spyer”asshecalledit.“Iamnot handlers. TheFinnishgirlspokeperfectRussianand but besttodowhattheadvisorsays. aboard. Hetakescharge.Thecaptainisonthehelm, three miles.Anadvisorarrivesonalaunchandjumps that feeisadeposittheywillreturn. VISA creditcardattheCitibankinColon.US$850of tying tothesideislesssafe. mark theformtospecify“centrelock”only.Raftingor a toilet?Howfastcanyougo?”Mostimportantisto on board?Haveyougotwater your boat.Heasksquestionslike:“Haveyougotfood seemed tobetheman.) work ifyouwish.Whenwewerethere,“Stanley” Admeasurer. (Youcangetanagenttodoallthepaper take you.Gettherequisitepapersandadatefor with anAussiecouple.Highlyrecommended. as aline-handleronanotherboatfirst.Wedidthis through theCanalbefore,youmaywishtogo want toexperiencetheprocess.Ifyouhavenotbeen cents perfootday.It’sboringbutverysafe. recommend youknowordo: west withour42-footBavariaonNovember1st,2009. Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI Located neartheentranceofNanny Cay

The lockattendantswalkedwithusintothelock.(If We enteredthefirstGatunlock.Fourlockatten- Wegotunderway,motoringtowardtheGatunlocks. We setoffwithtwoFinnishandBritishline- 8) MotortoTheFlatsinCristobalHarbour,about 7) Callthenumberprovidedtobegivenatransitslot. 6) Hirefour125-footlines. 5) Payyourfee(ourswasUS$1,500)incashorby 4) TheAdmeasurerwillcomeaboardandmeasure 3) Gotothe“tower”incityofColon;ataxiwill 2) Findfourline-handlersamongothercruiserswho 1) TieupinShelterBayMarina.Thecostis45US To arrangeyourtransit,hereareeightthingswe J ennifer and I transited the Panama Canal east to ennifer andItransitedthePanamaCanaleastto www.quantumsails.com l t. 2844941124 l e. [email protected] free withevery sail Clean, renewable fuel Pick upanddrop off New canvas andcanvas repair Convenient location loft Full salesandservice Largest loftintheBVI us gothrough. attached toawebsite,sothewholefamilywatched easier. Thereisacamerainthelast(Miraflores)lock Pacific Ocean.Theseweresimilartothefirstsetbut beautiful. Thenwerodethe“down”lockstoward motored 35milesacrosstheGatunLake—very,very party atthispoint,likewedid. he tookhisleave.Weadviseyoutohaveamega- hold the would fallinanddisasterresult.) love withtheAussiegirl.Wewereterrifiedthathe line-handlers, onelockattendantfellcompletelyin us. (WhenwewentthroughontheAussieboatas twice more.Thesamelockattendantsstayedwith opened thefrontdoors.Thisprocedurewasrepeated and letthewaterin.Wecameupabout60feet.They our boatinthecentreoflock,closeddoors Canal’s usualtraffic Above: The42-footBavariawasdwarfedbythe smitten bytheAussielass(belowright) ple. It’seasytoseewhyoneofthecanalworkerswas Jennifer, actedasline-handersforthisAustraliancou- Top right:Beforetheirowntransit,Dickyandhiswife, (Who isthe‘spyer’?) Left: Ladyline-handlersaboardtheauthor’s At 0600thenextdayanewadvisorarrivedandwe Next, theadvisortookustoabuoybigenough SAIL DESIGNGROUP A Recent Panama Transit byDickyBlamey Titanic Canal inGatunLakewherewetiedupand Successfully servingyoufor45yearswithCaribe, MARIGOT BAY [email protected] /www.marigotdiveresort.com Call usonChannel(16) to reserveyourtable, French andInternationalcuisineatthemost Feel freetoanchorup, Doolittle’s Restaurant Sanjola Beautiful BayintheCaribbean. and returnyoutoyouryacht. we willthenpickyouup .

(Ask Mr. Michener) procedure visitwww.shelterbaymarina.com kling andwhitewineplustwoofred. fresh water,onelitreofrum,bottleeachspar- etcetera (lesseasy). Balboa YachtClub(easy)ortoTahiti,Australia, For completedetailsonthePanamaCanaltransit PS Weconsumedeightgallonsofdiesel,75litres Finally theadvisorleavesandyougoaloneto

NO CHARGE!

St. Lucia FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

Bacco Street’s MARMARIS , but note that this was PALMA PALMA TOULON E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] • • E-mail: [email protected] SOUTHAMPTON • MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE If the prospect of entering and leaving these harbors If the prospect of entering and and finally west, avoiding Sail north, then northwest easy 22-mile reach to From North Sound it is an Jogging to the west, the southwest coast of St. Kitts Statia is off the beaten track, too, but avoid the Finding an uncrowded anchorage in the Anguilla-St. In Anguilla be sure, when checking in, to ascertain Next month: Off the Beaten Track in the Virgins. COMPETITIVE RATES impossible unless you have a small boat that goes to you have a small boat impossible unless Simmonds, and tacks readily; both David windward well sloop Slipway, on his little who built up Antigua small fiber- of Antigua Sails in his and Graham Knight done this.) glass sloop have continue northeastward from seaward is too daunting, area often considered the up the coast of Antigua, an The reason many most dangerous in the Caribbean. the northeast corner of sailors say this is because If not careful, the sailor Antigua is low and featureless. water littered with coral discovers he or she is in shoal fathometer and the color of heads. Keep an eye on the positions on the chart. the water and plot the GPS coral heads. Enter North the shoal water and detached not the northeastern — Sound via the northern — there are half a dozen entrance. In North Sound no other boat anchored in anchorages; pick one with bug-free anchorages. it and enjoy calm but windswept, can go via the channels From North Sound you the shore to explore both between the islands and Guana and Belfast Bays. and mile after mile of Barbuda, with many anchorages to many of the empty beaches. The approaches anchorages are littered with coral heads, like a mine- field ready to catch the unwary mariner. Stay on the ranges/transits on Imray Iolaire chart A26 and you are safe; only sail off the ranges if you are a good eye- ball navigator and the light conditions are good. has a number of anchorages that are seldom crowded. Developers have huge plans to develop a marina and residential complex called Christophe Harbour, but when will construction start? This could be the last year the sailor will be able to enjoy these anchorages in a tranquil and uncrowded state. island at spring tides, as in spring tides, when the tide overcomes the normal westerly current, heavy bunker oil can be carried up to the anchorage. Also avoid Statia if the wind is south of east or if there is a north- erly ground swell. Martin-St. Barts area is pretty difficult. In Orient Bay, St. Martin you will find other boats but the bay is so large that the anchorage is seldom crowded. where you are allowed to anchor. If you are allowed to anchor there, Rendezvous Bay on the south coast is seldom crowded. To really get off the beaten track, as long as the northerly ground swell is not running, Scrub Island offers an interesting-looking anchorage on its western side. There is a sketch chart in Guide, Anguilla to Dominica done from an aircraft; I have never succeeded in done from an aircraft; I have never succeeded in exploring this anchorage by boat as every time I want- ed to explore, conditions did not permit it. Two other good sailors reported the sketch chart fine, but use eyeball navigation in good light.

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Anguilla to Part Two: From the Saints engine. Then, getting into these bays is relatively easy engine. Then, getting into these bays is relatively easy if Jol Byerley’s sailing directions on page 98 of Guide, Anguilla to Dominica, (Beating to windward through the narrow channel is Green Island, where there are always a few boats but where there are always a Green Island, Island, if you crowded. From Green it is never really Belfast Bays, check out Guana and are adventurous to put a are a good sailor who is willing but only if you on the experienced in eyeball navigation crewmember have a boat with a good lower spreaders, and if you ase E ,

.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK WITH DON STREET BEATEN TRACK OFF THE , a at

d Fandango in . Note that this M acht at Rest Y , have visited Le Moule during the

Doki Cruising Guide to the PHotos by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by PHotos From Marie Galante, sail off to Desirade using From Marie Galante, sail off to Desirade using After clearing into Antigua, beat to windward to From the Saints it is a beat to windward to the From the Saints it is a beat In settled conditions you can anchor on two anchors In settled conditions you can From Desirade it is a glorious downhill slide to either Les Iles des Saintes, better known as the Saints, are better known as the Les Iles des Saintes, Doyle’s latest islands of Petite Terre, Marie Galante and Desirade. islands of Petite Terre, Marie in calm conditions) is Petite Terre (enter carefully from about 1100 to likely to be full of day-trippers as they are leaving you 1500 hours, but if you arrive all to yourself for an eve- have a wonderful anchorage swim and breakfast, ning sundowner, early morning arrive. Then sail on and can depart as the day-trippers never crowded as you can to Marie Galante, where it is anchor anywhere along about five miles of shoreline. You can always find a spot on the beautiful white sand beach that has no other boats or people. area is a favorite with surfers!). Once in and secured, go ashore and nearby you will find good restaurants; the clientele is usually local Guadeloupians. off the beach on the windward side of Terre de Bas. off the beach on the windward you, but as long as it is You’ll have a lee shore behind is east or south of east not blowing hard and the wind sea by Terre de Haut and you are sheltered from the are only two miles of fetch Ilet à Cabrit. Because there only a rough chop at worst. a big sea cannot build up, of good but very unpreten- Ashore you will find a lot tious restaurants. English or Falmouth Harbour to check in to Antigua. En route, only if the wind is east or south of east and seas are calm, the sailor who really wants to get away from it all and have serious bragging rights at the bar in Antigua can attempt a stop at the colonial sugar- shipping port of Le Moule on the north side of Grande Terre, Guadeloupe. Both Hans Hoff of Until recently, yachts seldom visited this island as Until recently, yachts seldom visited this island as the harbor, which is on the southwest corner of the island, was too shallow for anything but shoal-draft powerboats. Recently a channel into the harbor has been dug. The channel is reportedly nine feet deep, with seven feet alongside the fuel pier, and about six feet in most of the harbor. But as Doyle points out, even if you do go aground it’s in soft mud. Remember, in June, July and early August, the sea level in the Caribbean is usually about 18 inches lower than in winter. Thus the water depth between high water springs in winter and low water springs from June through early August can be as much as three feet. 90-foot Rhodes motorsailor, and Hank Strauss in his 45-foot ketch summer when the rollers are not running. Mind your p’s and q’s when entering (piloting directions are in Street’s Guide, Anguilla to Dominica a group of small islands south of Guadeloupe. Here islands south of Guadeloupe. a group of small of Terre anchors off the main island almost everyone transferred has become a bit of France de Haut, which de Bas, the But if you go to Terre to the Caribbean. find the Saints much as westernmost island, you will long as the wind is east or they were 30 years ago. As in Anse Fideling is good. north of east the anchorage FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 lure frogfish,queenangelFrench with camerasfornewandexcitingmarinelifebegins. Carriacou. Backrollsintothebrinyblue;hunt numerous divesitesonthesouthernshoresof Conny orGeorgeasguide,wespeedofftooneofthe “Do youknowwheretofind…?”,andoffwego…. “bible” referencetotheunderwatermarineworld. lished byPaulHumannandNedDeLoach—our browse themarine-lifeidentificationbookspub- dive shop,bothbookedtendivesandstartedto fishes, creaturesandcorals.Wewalkedintotheir embarked onthehunttoseenewandexciting diving experiences. staff, Kenneth,theyprovideexceptionalpersonal the owner-operatorsofArawakDivers.Alongwith Conny andGeorge,whoarepassionatedivers Grenadines. Since2007,wehavebeendivingwith diving istheislandofCarriacou,insouthern leisure timetoenjoythisactiveunderwaterpursuit. commitments andlifestylechoicesallowusplentyof For example,duringashallowdive,wesawlong Suited up,Kennethatthehelmoftheirpirogue, Let thehuntbegin! And soitgoes,“Conny,haveyoueverseen…?”, November 2009provednoexception,aswe One ofourfavouritechoicesforCaribbeanscuba Gordon andIliketoscubadive.Fortunately,work dI lik t bd i F t

tl GORDON NICHOLL GORDON Inset: Theeagerlysoughtlonglurefrogfish Right: Alongsnoutseahorse Top left:Theauthormakesanotherpersonaldiscovery was anexceptionaldayforaslowcruisearoundthe ditions, nocurrentandextremelyclearvisibility.It however, wewereblessedwithunusuallycalmcon- tered divingaroundthesetworocks.Onthisdive, the two. chose tocircumnavigatethelatter,andsmallerof reef diveorashallower,extendingdive.We provide theopportunityforadeep,steeplysloping The Sisters,southwestofHillsborough.Theserocks Divers’ pirogue,venturedouttotherocksknownas Conny andI,withKennethatthehelmofArawak some,” andournextdiveplandeveloped! “I’ve neverseenthem;let’sgoseeifwecanfind showed stripedlegswrappedaroundthelace.Isaid, files. Sureenough,thereweresomeimageswhich raced overtohercomputerforabrowsethrough think thereareanybrittlestarsinthoseimages?”We rose lacecoralonmycomputer.”Iasked,“Doyou stars onpage369. Ned DeLoach,Connynoticedroselacecoralbrittle Reef CreatureIdentification Sister Rocks mentioned anyofthecorals,plants,oralgae. mon octopus. sea cucumber,Caribbeanreefoctopusandcom- red nightshrimp,tiger-tailseacucumber,beaded Spanish lobster,spottedredreefhermit, orange ballcorallimorphs,Caribbeanspinylobster, nose pipefish,harlequinpipefishandbarracuda. lesser electricrays,ocelatedswimmingcrabs,long- ocean triggerfish,hawksbillturtles,nursesharks, worms. morays, bandedcoralshrimpandbeardedfire- anemone shrimp,spottedcleanergolden tunicates, scarletstripedcleanershrimp,squat sting ray,goldenlinedseagoddesses,strawberry

Usually, currentsofvaryingstrengthsareencoun- Next morning,November23rd,2009,Gordon, “Hmm,”shepondered.“Ihavedigitalimagesofthe Browsing onedaythroughthesecondeditionof Hunting forRoseLaceCoralBrittleStars, And thislistisbynomeanscomplete,havingnot Night divesonthissitepresent“TheThing”, Previously spottedonthissamedivesitehavebeen —Continued onnextpage byPaulHumannand Carriacou Diving in by LouiseKupka Hunt Begin! Let the FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 Compass, . . For more information on diving in Carriacou, visit Sharing this soft brown sponge were two longlure brown sponge were two Sharing this soft ago, while diving in I last saw frogfish 20 years for! Some things are worth waiting the reader to believe Now, I don’t want to lead shrimp, less We are still searching for bumblebee Thankfully, this means more diving and hunting for Louise Kupka is cruising the Caribbean aboard Divers’ website at www.arawak.de, or see advertisement for Carriacou Silver Diving in the Market Place section of this issue of corner of my eye I saw George gesture for me to eye I saw George gesture corner of my looking at. a brown sponge he was swim over to and very unusually animated George had become ear-to-ear grin. I slowly approached, excited with an of my tunicate study. Cautious reluctant to leave and I too find, I moved in slowly, disturbing his joy. We and then shouted with started to smile, with excitement! were both giddy and larger than the frogfish! One was bright yellow brown coloration and second, which was of orange the first. Amazing! somewhat hidden beneath looking for them ever Borneo in 1989. I have been one at this site. I was since. George had never seen found them in three much more fortunate, having years of diving in Carriacou. or straightforward. that the hunt is always so easy, ten and 15 Conny and George have, respectively, waters. They know the years of diving in Carriacou so they have a wealth various dive sites intimately, hunts should occur. of knowledge on where the are still learning, Avid passionate divers, they reefs of Carriacou, watching and enjoying the underwater becoming increasingly knowledgeable we have been naturalists. With their assistance, new discoveries. fortunate to date with our than an inch in size, and thought to inhabit sea cucumbers. To date, we have not seen any with our delinquent, aging eyes, so the quest remains to find the right cucumber. new marine life in Carriacou. I never tire of the show of colour, and variety of fishes, sponges, corals and creatures. Shallow dives, deep dives, pinnacle reefs, walls, drift dives, wrecks, grass beds. The choice is endless, visibility fantastic. Diving in Carriacou, in my opinion, is simply awesome – a diver’s dream. pages 43 through 45 S/V Coho and knowledgeable staff yachts of all sizes are on hand 24 hours a day to welcome from 20ft to 300ft. to purchase on a 30-year licence, please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Port and our friendly Louis is owned and operated by Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, For more information about securing a berth at Port Louis, including the opportunity Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7432 or email [email protected] Port Louis Marina – just one more reason to visit the ‘Spice Island’. Continued from previous page Continued from reef, examining every crevice and hole that that every crevice and hole reef, examining 50 to of 16 to 18 metres (about Starting at a depth coral-encrusted Swimming eastward we passed point, keeping an eye We dove around the rock were so calm, without Thankfully the conditions we continued east- Satisfied with our success, Sighted – Longlure Frogfish, Tyrell Bay The sea is a mysterious mistress. She can be slow This was the situation on November 25th, while I was studying strawberry tunicates through the T T — showed something of interest. showed something slender green moray, black coral, 60 feet), we spotted chromis, large schools of brown filefish, gorgonians, of pelagic The large schools and various wrasses. and here, such as jacks, barracuda fish, often seen owing to the lack of current. tuna, were absent, barrel sponges and a walls, vase corals, huge life. After rounding the plethora of other marine Conny had previ- northeast end of the reef, where we commenced our ously seen the rose lace coral, brittle stars. intense search for the associated focusing into shaded under the ledge overhang, of rose lace coral. protected areas, favoured habitat with its fan-like The coral was easy to identify colour, as it hung in the structure and pinkish-rose There were a few open beneath the rock overhang. too plentiful. colonies in the area, but not able to nose under the surge or current. We were coral for a good look, overhang and get close to the brittle stars were pres- and found that the rose lace glance at each other, ent. Conny and I stole a shouts began and the smiled and laughed, the cameras started to flash! ward, with the depth gradually shallowing between 10 and 12 metres (about 30 and 40 feet). As we slowly worked our way back to the start of the dive we were rewarded with sightings of a hawksbill turtle, nurse shark, scorpionfish, various crabs and black surgeonfish. to reveal her mysteries or freely divulge of her gifts. One never knows which mood she will be in on any given day. George and I blew bubbles during a shallow dive near Tyrell Bay. We were approaching the end of a relax- ing dive, and enjoying the colors and antics of French and queen angelfish, Caribbean spiny lobsters, squirrelfish and a multitude of other marine life. lens of my underwater camera, when out of the

GORDON NICHOLL

ARAWAK DIVERS WEST INDIES and with an international airport just five miles away, Port Louis is the ideal base for and with an international airport just five miles away, exploring the wonderful islands of the Grenadines. dockside facilities and marina-wide wi-fi all contribute to making your stay safe and relaxed. of a beautifully appointed, fully serviced marina – located in the lagoon adjacent to the island’s capital, St George’s. to the island’s Now, with Port Louis, visiting yachts can enjoy the security and convenience Now, Grenada’s southern cruising, including the summer months, location allows for year-round Grenada’s Grenada remains one of the most unspoilt and welcoming cruising destinations www.cnportlouismarina.com in the Caribbean. ITALY | | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY As a Port of Entry, it’s easy to clear in and out through Port Louis, and our 24-hour it’s As a Port of Entry, security, Port to visit Grenada Louis Marina – another great reason FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 Adults alsochaseotherseabirdsinflighttograbtheircatch,hencethenames rior ponds,andalsoonflyingfish,jellyfishsmallturtlestakenfromtheocean. neck. InBarbuda,theyfeedonfishsnappedupfromtheisland’slagoonsandinte- glossy black;femaleshavewhitebreasts.Theimmaturebirdhasaheadand stay aloftfordaysatatime. well, andcannottakeofffromtheseaorflatground,butonceinskytheycan around 22milesanhouratheightsupto2,000feet.Theycannotswimorevenwalk a wingspanofeightfeetandbodyweightthreepounds.Theyflyatspeeds frigate birds,themales’redgularpouchesinflatedtoattractmates.Thesebirdshave pink interiorandhis75-horsepoweroutboard. and offwewent.Tripodupready.OffroaredonFoster’spiroguewiththe so wecouldhoistherupthebeach.FostermetusonCodringtonLagoonside for words.Bearhadlaunchedourdinghy, Charge camerabatteries.Emptymemorycards.Bed.Upatsillyo’clock,toofidgety Christmas trees!” tomorrow morning,”saidFoster. Tours), hopinghewouldsaythatthisafternoonbetheperfecttimetogo.“Ten see themumsandbabies—boyshadbeeninMexicowiththeirmistresses. wish toseetheFrigateBoysdoingtheirstuff.Thelasttimewewereheregot Frigate birdsarerelativesofpelicans,cormorantsandboobies.Themales As weapproachedthenorthwesternpartoflagoonskywasfullenormous So Ihadtowaitanother20hours.Bearsomehowknewwouldn’tsleepwell. “Are theboysintheirglory?”Iasked,andgotreply—“Theplacelookslike As soonastheanchorwassetIonphonetoFoster(ofHopkins I waitedpatientlyfor28weeksandonedaytoreturnBarbudawiththeexpress Baby Beez, Back in Town The Frigate andputtheelectricmotoron Boys are by PepeMillard Above: Foster(left)showedusthesights—thanksforagreatday! Barbuda’sbirdsanctuary Left: Adultsandoneoftheseason’sfirstchicksinmangrovesat Top leftandright:Malefrigatebirdsinflatetheirgularpouchestoattractfemales Neez frigate birdsofBarbuda.Allinall,whatawow! cies. ItistheCaribbean’slargestnestingcolonyoffrigatebirds—simplystunning. home toseveralthousandfrigatebirds,aswellmorethanahundredotherbirdspe- breed. Theoldestknownageis34years. chicks canflyatabout25weeksafterhatching.Theyaresixyearsoldbeforethey frigate birdstakecareoftheiryounglongerthananyotherbird—11months.The born nakedbutsoonacquireswhitedown.Thechicksarefedbyregurgitation,and between mid-SeptemberandlateMarch.Incubationissevenweeks.Thechick ship orwhoownseachtwiginthemangroves.Onewhiteeggislaidsometime per nine-by-12-footarea.Thereislotsofarguingoverlandingrights,perchowner- sunlight, andmakesdrummingnoisesclackshisbeak. approaches, themaletrembleshiswings,showingundersurfaceflashingin takes about25minutes,andisdonetoattractthefemales.Whenafemale males blowuptheirscarletthroatsac,orgular,tothesizeofasmallballoon.This frigate birdandman-o-warbird. Pepe andBearMillardarecruisingtheCaribbeanaboardtheirWarrior40, Thank youtoFosterandBearwhotookmeseeamuchwished-forsight,the Barbuda’s FrigateBirdSanctuary,accessibleonlybyboatwithalocaltourguide,is In anestingcolonysuchasthisone,thereareanaverageofthreelargetwignests During breedingseason,whichwewereluckyenoughtoobservethistime,the , havinglefttheirhomeportofPlymouth,Devon,UKin2008. Beez FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

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by Jim Hutchinson Jim by

HUGS BUNNY BUNNY There was a time when I thought articles like this did some good. Applying these Many whom I have heard express concern about global warming (which, if you Here’s a tough one, call it a “bear hug”: If you become a resident in these small Or, does reusing plastic bags just help us feel better about boarding the airplane This one is a double bunny hug, cuts transportation and good for the regional Here’s my favorite. Those black quart/litre containers that motor oil comes in, You know those sponges claimed to be especially for bailing? Full of soap, rot if left You know those sponges claimed to be especially for bailing? There is more bottle recycling here than one might expect. Inquire of the shopkeepers. There is more bottle recycling here than one might expect. as she opened the bulg- “Oh, you’re going to love this,” I said to the Customs officer Here’s a way that many yachts could make their sails last years and years longer: Here’s a way that many yachts could make their sails The “handle bags” they try to give you every time you buy a few things in a store canThe “handle bags” they try to give you every time you buy Years ago in a remote part of , early in my cruising, I pulled out a Years ago in a remote part of the Bahamas, early in Non-rechargeable, disposable, all chemical batteries are bad environmental news Non-rechargeable, disposable, all chemical batteries “AA” batteries are what my digital camera needs. Not “heavy duty” batteries, but digital camera needs. Not “heavy duty” batteries, but “AA” batteries are what my A “bunny hug” is when you do some token little thing for the environment. Hugging do some token little thing for the environment. Hugging A “bunny hug” is when you tricks could result in a tiny-tiny improvement. If haven’t heard, is now official) find that their particular carbon emissions are exempt. islands, don’t have a car. There are already too many cars here. If you do have a car, you are morally bound to pick up anyone who wants a ride. for our next visit home? economy. Buy local and regional products when available. Give them a chance, give them a try. and embraced, the improvement could be big enough to call tiny. Which, of course, is not nearly enough. But it would help cultivate useful habits.... Right? HDPE (whatever that is), recycle group 2. They stand up to all the chemicals I’ve stored in them so far, including acetone (use the cap they come with). Unlike metal containers, they don’t rust. Unlike glass containers, they don’t clink or break. Spout caps from detergent bottles fit them for dispensing epoxy and hardener. Make sure you label them. in the dinghy? They are made for washing cars — or maybe your bilge. For bailing, in the dinghy? They are made for washing cars — or needs to be flushed out — the soap (which fills the sponge with bubbles, not water) life, they become an awful you need to “break them in”. At the other end of their short but boat-gear priced, of goo — lots of boat gear can’t take a marine environment... bailers of dinghies surely course. Well I finally stumbled onto what countless other your canvas shop. Ask for already know: regular cushion foam (not closed cell) from supply of bailing sponges. a small slab of old, stained stuff, and cut it into a lifetime They hold a lot of water and last a long time, even when left under Sun and in stand- ing water. You can add soap if you want to wash the car — or do the dishes. ing manila envelope for inspection. Ms. Phillips wore one bar back then, three bars ing manila envelope for inspection. Ms. Phillips wore onto the counter and now. She’s sharp. She poured a pile of ruined pantyhose of nylon rope, strong, instantly said, “Recycle?” Pantyhose is the “silly putty” as rig-wrap, spreader tips, and stretchy, conforms to any shape you wrap. I’ve used it too. Normally, though, we to build crazy craft. Great for softening the ends of poles, shouldn’t be importing trash into someone else’s country. cover them. Sometimes I wonder if someone ought to tell them. cover them. Sometimes I wonder if someone ought to be used over and over. I get weeks or months out of mine, then use them (doubled ifbe used over and over. I get weeks or months out of mine, is to have your bag out andnecessary) as trash bags. The trick when checking out for one... and replenish yourready, clearly say, “I’ve got my own bag” before they reach handle bags have a well-sealedsupply when they give you another one anyway. Not all them nearly watertight. bottom, but if they do, tying the handles together makes Ziploc to put something in. Someone with many more years on the water than I said, Ziploc to put something in. Someone with many more didn’t take me long to convert. “Mon, I stopped using those things a long time ago.” It be kept dry. Inflate them to Recycled bread bags is how I now package things to enough to tie with a slipped check for leaks. Twist the open end into an end long seal (two places where the overhand knot. A slipped overhand provides a double opening. Squeeze the air out mouth of the bag is clamped tight) and allows for easy air in it for actual use — an first if you want to see how good it works, but leave some evacuated bag sucks water in if pricked. from manufacture to disposal. So I use the cheapo auto supply regulators (12 volt to from manufacture to disposal. So I use the cheapo auto devices aboard. 1.5/3.0/4.5/6.0/7.5/9.0/12 volt) to run battery-powered alkaline, the expensive ones. When the camera finally says “battery depleted”, I take When the camera finally says “battery depleted”, I take alkaline, the expensive ones. — rest. Then they are good for another ten pictures the batteries out and let them again. A something-else to check is this: my camera plus several more, if I rest them out left in the camera (so does my GPS), so I take them uses up the batteries when are finally exhausted (as far as the camera is concerned) when not in use. When they bright — for quite a while. When the penlight dims, they they still burn my penlight “rail lights”) bright. Finally, burn those solar powered yard lights (a.k.a., nautically, batteries we discard can be poor kids with transistor devices taught me that the I ran across one kid who partially rejuvenated by baking in the sun. Post-finally, out of them. You needn’t carefully beats his batteries with a rock to get even more go that far. trees and bunnies makes us feel good. Here’s some bunny hugs we can do aboard. trees and bunnies makes us FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 and justoffthedecksof Kralendijk lastDecember.Shewasshinyandnew,freshfromaFloridaboatyard, theSun Around byPatrickHolian inquire whattheconstantattractionis.That’safairquestion.Iwilltrytoexplain. the actofsailingwasn’tenough.Othershere,whorepeatedlyseemecruisingbay, my home. one moresailwhenIlookoutattheboatbobbingonline,beckoningmefrom ,justa30-secondswimfrommydoor.Itishardtosay“no” a confluenceofplace,time,desireandboat. well intothethree-digitsandcounting,thatinlessthanayear.Ihavebenefitedfrom It’s beennearlyayearsinceItookownershipof So I go. I sail. Repeatedly. Bonarians ask me often why I don’t fish while I sail, as if So Igo.sail.Repeatedly.Bonariansaskmeoftenwhydon’tfishwhilesail,asif Since thattime,Ihavesailedmoredaysthanallthepriorsailsofmylifetime.am KKontentu’s

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Sail on?Whynot?’ ‘In lessthanayear,I’vesailedmoredaysallthepriorsailsofmylifetime… the congestedChesapeakeBayBridgejusttoget ponder thetimesIbraveddenseDCweekendtrafficonUS-50toAnnapolisandthen about statesidefriendsstilltoilingawayinaquesttofattenthe401-K.Occasionally,I indigo blue.Iamtheonlycraftonwaterandit’saTuesday.Othertimesthink body viewsfromabove.Iseemyselfbelowinmysmallboatsurroundedbyavastseaof tack line. this time;apodofdolphinsracingoffthebowinplayfulpursuitonmyimaginary checking toseeifItooktheadviceofmyBonarianfriendsandactuallywentfishing near thedivesiteofAliceInWonderland;aseagullhoveringjustabovemymast, stash themusicandjustenjoymelodyofjourney. blast ofamassivecruiseship’shorndepartingforthenextportparadise.Isoon the waternearby,breakofwavesovercoralshoresKleinBonaire, longing toreturnthesimplesoundsofmoment—asplashpelicanhitting that resonatewithmysoul.Itisanadded-valueexperience.ButIsoonfindmyself 800 songsormore.AttimeswhenIsolosail,dontheearphonesandplaytunes the lastmonthIboughtaniPodShuffle,adevicesizeofmypinkiethatcanhold ing asuddenpuff.Thebrilliantseagurglespastthesternondownwindblow.In against thehullasboatsurgesforward.Windwhistlesthroughriggingdur- 14-knot tradewinds.Ihikeoutoverthecoamingas sailing thepristineCaribbeanandI’monafastreach.It’sfull-saildayinconstant But theunderlyingstressofEastCoastlivingisquicklybecomingadimmemory. ers andNavywarshipsthatclosevastdistancesinalarminglysmallamountsoftime. who buzzwaytoocloseandatdangerousspeeds;ominoushulksofocean-goingfreight- fumes andnastywakes;rudeWaveRunnerspilotedbybeer-guzzlingtwenty-somethings sloop. Then,outonthewater,onlytofacemoretraffic—obnoxiousspeedboatsspewing ride andI’vegotendlesstickets.Sailon?Whynot? motion mantra,anauticalplaybackonperpetualrewind,sea-goingamusement the breeze.ThisiswhatIdothesedays,againandagain.It’satropical Then thereareinnervisionsthatplayinsidemyhead.Sometimes,theyout-of- And therearesights—dazzling,dreamsiclegreenwaterasIglideovertheshallows For me,itisamulti-perceptualexperience.Thesoundsoverwhelm.Waterslaps It’s allgoodnow.I’mbacktotheaerial,out-of-bodyvisionofmeinrealtime. Kontentu Tera Starr leansdeterminedlyinto , a sleek Hunter 28.5 , asleekHunter28.5 FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

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From the dock in Ashton walk up the main street past the road to Clifton till you street past the road to in Ashton walk up the main From the dock of on the other side of the road is the Kingdom Hall A few steps beyond Mackie’s rises to the ridge. Near thisYou’ll emerge at the top into a partially cleared field that Mount Taboi inviting you When you get back down as far as the ridge, you can see all around, even down onto The views from the top are magnificent; you can see TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT ● ● ● ● ● ●

Top left: Looking northeast from Big Hill, with Mayreau and Canouan in the distance Bottom left: Worth the climb: Chatham Bay from Mt. Taboi Right: Big Hill offers a bird’s-eye view of Ashton Harbour’s abandoned marina project and Frigate Island, with Carriacou behind Mount Taboi as well, you will need an extra hour or so each way. as well, you will need an extra Mount Taboi the top and wall with conch shells along a guest house with a big see on your right and enjoy a cold is a good place to stop Mackie’s Mini Mart. This on your left, F&M way. Mackie to see you on your a bottle of water from Merle drink or buy the more modest building than the image conjured by the Jehovah’s Witnesses, a the building is a road that leads uphill. Follow it right to name. Right opposite this continue up these steps up to the next road and then top, where it turns into steps; steps on the other side of the road that appear to lead continue climbing the few the up the grassy slope (you can pass either side of nowhere. Continue directly you will come to a clear and rather good path that small bush stand ahead) and left. the hill. If you come to any path divisions just keep winds up the north side of hill on this path, especially in the morning when the There is considerable shade your head. blocks the sun and the dry woodland trees are well above again into the woods. Followridge, on your left-hand side, look for the path that leads face; the path follows this upthis up to the top. Just before the top is a fairly large rock quite a distance in both direc- to the left. You come out onto Big Hill peak, which runs down onto Ashton and thetions and at various points offers panoramic views straight over the island to Mountabandoned marina project with Carriacou beyond, and and Canouan in the distance.Olympus (a.k.a. the Pinnacle) with the islands of Mayreau your step, because the pathDon’t get so enthralled with the view that you forget to watch devil nettle and even the toxichere is narrow and heavily bounded by prickly pear cactus, are steep and slippery. brazil tree (its leaves look a bit like holly). Parts of the path mountain is a giant slab of to explore further. As you will see, the very top of this is usually unclear, variable, rock with a sheer cliff facing you. The path from here be good at navigating “bush”. and often no more than a few goat trails, so you need to do not carry a machete, you Prickles, typical of these dry areas, abound, and if you the ridgeline up until you will likely gain a few scratches (I did). You basically follow for grazing cows. After this, enter woods and then emerge in another open area used to skirt round the north side “feel” your way — find what paths you can. You need where it is not sheer cliff. of Mount Taboi so you can approach it from the far side Janti (of Happy Island) went Chatham Bay on the west side of the island. My friend there. He realized that safe up one late afternoon, and darkness found him still the night on the peak. He said descent in the dark would be impossible so he spent it was cold.

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The trip from the dock in Ashton to Big Hill and back is probably around an hour The trip from the dock in Ashton to Big Hill and back Think how it would feel to be way up there on those peaks, high in the air with the Think how it would feel to be way up there on those peaks, As you sit at anchor off Frigate Island, the uninhabited cay attached by a disinte- As you sit at anchor off Frigate Island, the uninhabited and half; allow another half an hour at the top. If you decide to go all the way to and half; allow another half an hour at the top. If you world spread out below you. Then put on your hiking boots, or your toughest san- world spread out below you. Then put on your hiking dals, and head out. grating causeway to Union Island in the Grenadines, look up to the left of the village grating causeway to Union Island in the Grenadines, look Mount Taboi, 304 metres (997 of Ashton and you will see the Union’s highest point, your eye follow this hill line feet) above you. It is the tallest peak on a hilly range. Let lower peak, known as towards Ashton and you will see it dip, then rise to another Big Hill, right above Ashton. UNION ISLAND UNION MOUNT TABOI, TABOI, MOUNT

FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Crossword Solution

distraction fromanydisagreementsonboard. sailing alonguntilthingspickupnextmonth. though yourenergyhasimproved.Enjoythistimejust the month. during thefirstweek,andlovewilllivenuprestof this month. abound, sobestkeepyourpurseandlipzipped board argumentsarelikelyandmisunderstandings diplomatic andyou’llkeeppeaceonboard. headed fortherocksifyoucannotcompromise,sobe dark side. although thefirstweekwillfindyourmoodcruisingon financial mattersuntilthetiderises. fun romanticinterludeinmid-monthtotakeyourmindoff tenance andnavigation,sostayfocused. ing yourattentionfromimportantmatterssuchasmain- on boardcouldbecomesqually,withpettyargumentstak- out bymid-month. your lovelife—anybumpyseasinthatareawillsmooth on thefarhorizon,concentratekeepinganevenkeelin Valentine’s Day. with loveanchoringoffyoursternjustintimefor after that. life duringthefirstweeks.Youcouldloseyourwind enjoy yourself. sailors’ party.Throwafêteontheforedeckandjust ACROSS 39) TACKLE 37) RATLINES 35) HEMP 32) OILY 31) UGLY 28) TURNED 27) SLOT 24) EONS 22) TOOL 21) SPRING 19) PAYS 18) SEA 17) PHONIC 16) ROPE 13) ROLL 10) GLOVES 8) FIT 4) RUSTS 1) LENGTH You mightreceivegoodnews,whichwillbeawelcome Marine businessisstillsomewhatinthedoldrums, Nautical businessmightseeamomentaryupswing Financial mattersarestillsloggingtowindward,ship- Energy isatlowebb,sailsareslack.Romancecouldbe The fullmooninVirgoshouldbrightenthesecondweek, The tidesofboatbusinessarestillatlowebb.Enjoya Income forthecruisingkittywillbeslowbutsteady.Life While thewindisdownandbusinessprospectsarestill This monthwillbeabroadreachforyou,toppedoff A nauticalromancewillcontinuetoenlivenyour The middleofthismonthwouldbeagoodtimefor FEBRUARY 2010 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER

AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 19) PALM 15) LC 14) ON 12) SPLICED 11) LAY 9) TOAST 7) WIRE 6) SPLICING 5) STRONGER 3) TWO 2) NAG 1) LINE DOWN 51) SHEATH 50) DONE 49) MAKE 47) CABLE 45) CHAIN 41) SUIT (22Jun-23Jul) 48) EH 46) NO 44) ICE 43) FID 42) THE 40) LIFT 38) THICK 36) METALS 34) LED 33) IN 31) UP 30) COIL 29) BLOCK 27) STERNS 26) ANCHOR 25) BUOYS 23) OUT 20) SS

parlumps marooned TRIBUTE TOHAITI —DillonOllivierre By donatingtothesufferersofthatland. Share thevisionofhopebygivinghoweverwecan, Lift themup,Lord,asweallcometogethertoshare, Let themrealizethatyouandwecare Lead themalltoyourgatessotheyshallfeelrelief. Lord, blessthenationofHaitiwithhope,faithandbelief, Let’s clinchontighttothesufferersbeforevisionofhopecanperish. Like wewouldclinchontighttotheonesloveandcherish, Let’s showerthenwithlovelikewewouldourmates, Help bringthevisionofhope,loveandunitytoourpeopleHaiti There isnothingtolosebutsomuchgain. Would youletthemsuffersuchpain? People, picturethesufferersasyoursonsanddaughters: Let’s allcometogethertogivefood,clothingandwater; The manywhohavebeenhospitalizedandnowfeelforsaken. For themanywhoselivesweretaken, Lord, pleasetakeourprayersintoconsideration Such struggle,suchhorror,pain,suffer-ation. The peoplethathaveseenpaindifferentlylately. Let’s alluniteasonetohelpthesufferersinHaiti are myhappiness and thesoundsofmyrigging where thesmellofsea for smallboyechoes in aworldtoovasteven a waveofkinship raise afriendlyhand of lifetodriftawakeand waiting forthesigns causing faintripples on clearwater,mybarefeet for areflection gulls huntthepinkdawn the sidesofboats,whileover soft waveslappingat mast inearlymorn, sound ofrigginghittingthe Happiness isthe Happiness -ahaiku

— VanessaSimmons

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JANE GIBB JANE UN Photo/Logan Abassi Photo/Logan UN FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Crossword Solution on page 38 Word Search Puzzle solution on page 45 ‘CABLE’ ACROSS sold by this 1) 47 Across is ____ in salt air 4) Low-alloy steel 8) Cause to be the proper size 7 Down 16 10) Wear these when handling Across with “fish hooks” or this 13) 47 Across comes on a spool 1 Down 16) Sailors usually call this 17) Relating to speech sounds 18) Caribbean or Mediterranean 19) Covers with tar or pitch vessel in 21) A 1 Down used to hold position alongside dock and sailmakers 22) 43 Down is one for riggers 24) Long periods of time main 27) Space between jib and 28) Changed direction 31) Bad looking with an ____ rag 32) Wipe 7 Down 16 Across to remove surface rust 16 Across 35) Plant fiber used to make to shrouds, used for going aloft 37) 16 Across rungs seized is useful for moving 39) A 29 Down and ______heavy items sails 41) A vessel’s collection of 45) 26 Down 47 Across can be this or 16 Across 47) The subject of this puzzle 49) ____ and mend; what sailors do off watch 50) Accomplished 51) A sailor carries a knife in this DOWN 1) Hook, ____ and sinker 2) Annoy persistently 3) 400 yards is this many 47 Acrosses 5) 7 Down is ______than 35 Across 6) Weaving two 1 Downs together 7) Metal 1 Down 9) Grilled bread 11) ‘Worm and parcel with the ___ ; turn and serve the other way’ 12) Woven together 14) Not off 15) Liquid crystal (abbrev.) 19) Leather piece worn on the hand to push sail needle 20) Stainless steel (abbrev.) 23) 19 Across ___; lets 1 Down go evenly 25) Harbor markers 26) ‘Hook’ 27) Aft ends of boats 29) Run 1 Down through this where it needs to turn 30) To 49 Across 31 Down a 1 Down, do this to it 31) Not down 33) Not out 34) Running rigging will chafe if badly ___ 36) Iron, aluminum and nickel, for example 38) Not thin 40) Raise 42) Definite article 43) A conical piece of wood or metal; see 22 Across 44) A buildup of this on the rigging can cause a vessel to capsize 46) Not yes 48) ‘What?’ Caribbean Compass 2010

© Compass Cruising Crossword Cruising Compass February’s here, and thoughts turn to Carnival. February’s here, and thoughts Search Puzzle Get in the spirit with this Word by Pauline Dolinski! FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2010 © eyes andtheyallowwaterout.Asthe passesthrough,themoraycanrec- ing outabovethemouthandtheyallow waterin.Thesecondpairareabovethe smell. Theyhavetwopairsofnostrils.The firstpairlookliketwolittletubesstick- the holesinreeftosearchforprey. are cannibalsandeateachother!They prefer tohuntatnightwhentheyleave feed mainlyonfishbutwillalsoeatshrimp, crabsandevenlobster.Somemorays oxygen. drawing waterintotheirmouthsandpassing itbackandovertheirgillstoextract mouths areopensotheylookasthoughreadytobite.Infact, back asfarthetail. are reallylongslenderfishwithadorsalfinthatextendsallthewaydown look likesnakesandtheymovewhenareswimming.But tion. Canyouguesswhatthismightbe? of them. hundreds ofmarinecreatureswillbewithoutahome.Let’stakelookatsome reefs aroundtheworld.Ifproblemspersistandourcoralaredestroyed, DEEP SECRETS Moray eelshavepoorsightandhearing buttheyhaveanexcellentsenseof What domorayeelseat?Theanswertothat is,whatevercomestheirway.They Morays dolookquitefrighteningbecause,astheyloiterintheirholes, It’s thescary-looking There’s oneveryinterestingandunusualreeffishthathasafiercereputa- For thepastfewmonths,wehavebeenlookingatproblemsfacedbycoral byLeeKessel PartTwo Dragons Gone? Where Have Allthe

a n d H Now Grannywasjustabouttoseewhatthesmallanimalwas…. Granny, believingshewouldfindanabandonedlamb,wentwithher. on thepath.Sillahadrunhometogetsomemilkfeeditand off tofindadragonforherselfandstumbleduponbabylost people ontheirCaribbeanislandfeared—MorneDiablo.Sillahadset up thestorythattheylivedincavesonmountainallold grandmother wherehadallthedragonsgone,andGrannymade e so wecouldfeedher.” lost onthepathandsavedherlifebyrunninghometogetGranny right inherfieryeyesandtoldso,adding,“Ifoundyourbaby take thebreathfromyourbodies!” Granny stoodbehindSilla. didn’t breathefireoverthemwasbecauseSillaheldherbabyand dragon. Itpulsatedorangeandredtheonlyreasonwhyshe ils flewabout. soon andGrannyhadnowishtobeonthemountainwhenitsdev- burst ofredbehindthetoweringmountain.Itwouldbedarkvery to returnthebaby. she didwheneverwasagitatedandwonderedwhatcoulddo itself inSilla’sarmsandwenttosleep.Grannywrungherhandsas sucked outoftheragandafterithadgivenagoodbelch,cuddled she thinkswe’vestolenit.” her home.” little animalcomesfromthedevil?It’sababydragonandI’mtaking dragon fromundertheleafybush. Granny crossedherselfashersmallgranddaughterledbaby m l If yourememberourstoryfromlastmonth,Sillahadaskedher The motherdragon’scolourcalmedfromredtopurpleblue,and Silla thoughtthisungratefulandunjust,soshelookedthedragon “Thieves!”roaredthedragon.“GivememychildandgobeforeI Too late.Swoopingdownuponthemcameaveryangrymother Now allthishadtakensolongthatthesunsetinafiery But Sillainsistedtheyfeedthelittlecreaturefirstwithmilk “Ohnoyou’renot,child.Wehavetoreturnititsmotherbefore Silla giggled,“OhGranny,howcouldyouthinkthatsuchapretty “OhmeGodchild,whatcreatureofthedevilisthatthing?”And

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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 the specialnameinverticalcolumn. mucus whichmakesitlookgreen.There’salsoaspottedmorayissmaller. up toeightfeetinlength.It’sreallybluecolourbutit’scoveredwithyellow pull thepreyintodigestivesystem. throat. Thepharyngealjawscanmoveforwardsothatthesecondlotofteeth has anothersetofteethinasecondjaws(called wound. Theseteetharegreatforgrabbingandholdingontoprey.Butthemoray have alotoflong,bacteria-covered,backward-facingteeththatcaninflictnasty ognize differentscentssoitcansensewhenitspreyisnear. — Answers on page 45 Granny —wemightbesavingthelastone.” you if perhaps them hometohergrandmothercarefor,saying,“Youneverknow, and full is moon the dragonsagainstbrightfaceofafullmoon. the when night believe stronglyenough,youtoowillseetheshadowsoflast every dragons the dragonseverynightwhenmoonisfull,andperhapsifyou the shadows ofthelastdragonsagainstfacefullmoon.” when thenightisright,ifyoulookverycarefully,willsee tears rolleddownhercheeks. will bethelastofdragons.” There willbenomorebabiesandwithoutamate,myownlittleone now thereisonlyoneothershe-dragononthemountainwithme. many years.Someofmysisterdragonshavedespairedanddied birth tothisbaby,havingnurturedherwithinmybodyformany, be safe,hereinthecavernsofMorneDiablo.Notsolongago,Igave to findanewhomeandaftermuchsearchingwethoughtwould she-dragons, andsoonenightweflewacrossthelandseas killed usverycruelly.Eventually,onlyahandfulofremained,all Transylvania, butovertheyearspeoplesettrapsforusand The babydragonslepton,warmandsafeinhermother’swings. became ofus.” tested Silla. last ofthedragons.” delicate wings. she gentlytookherbabyfromSil’sarmsandenfoldedin Unscramble thewordsfrompassageandplaceincorrectspaces.Find WORD PUZZLE The mostcommonmorayintheCaribbeanisGreenMoraywhichcangrow A morayeelbitecanbeveryseriousbecauseinthefrontofmouth,they THE END And Sillastilllooksoutforabandonedbabyanimalsandbrings Now Sillaandhergrandmotherlookfortheshadowsoflast “Youwillneverseeusagain,”continuedthemother-dragon,“but Silla thoughtthisthesaddeststoryshehadeverheardandbig “Allthedragonslivedforhundredsofyearsinmountains So GrannysatonabigstoneandheldSillatightagainstherbosom. “No.SitdownwithyourgrandmotherandI’lltellyouwhat “Buttheremustbelotsofyouhidingoutinthemountain,”pro- “Thankyou,humanchild,”Shesaidhumbly.“Youhavesavedthe Swooping downuponthemcame a veryangrymotherdragon 9 WORDPUZZLE 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. S LIG E VRCI L EMS E XYONG S WAJ P HRIMS L ISTORN H UMTO pharyngeal jaws ) inits FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

little FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 and you’d elongation Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware Burford Books, ©2007. . That’s roughly the plane of the . That’s roughly the plane of ecliptic north north o o The Why Book of Sailing, e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Above: February 1st from Grenada, 12 Below: February 1st from Canada, 45 So you might think that the best chance to view Mercury is when it is at the biggest to view Mercury is when it is think that the best chance So you might Scott Welty is the author of If we can look at the sun (but don’t!) then Mercury is always going to be just a Mercury is always going at the sun (but don’t!) then If we can look to one side of the sun or the other from our vantage point. That means you are only our vantage point. That means the sun or the other from to one side of or just after sunset. just before sunrise going to see Mercury That angle is called sun as viewed from earth. angle from the angles with respect to the solar system and that line in the sky will take on different See Figures 2 and 3! The two local horizon depending on latitude and season. Whew! Mercury on February 1st as diagrams show the relative position of the sun and somewhere near a place called viewed from Grenada and then at latitude 45 degrees of about 25 degrees measured ‘Canada’. As you can see, Mercury is at an elongation much lower in Canada mak- along the ecliptic in both cases but the ecliptic itself is low in the sky where there ing Mercury nearly impossible to view since it will be very In the Caribbean the angle is a LOT more atmosphere for the light to come through. and doesn’t change so much the ecliptic makes with the horizon is always fairly large with seasons as we very well know. That’s why it’s nice and warm and also why sunset and sunrise happen pretty quickly giving us little twilight. be nearly right! Mercury’s biggest possible elongation is about 25 degrees. The prob- elongation is about 25 degrees. Mercury’s biggest possible be nearly right! along the lem is that elongation is measured

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The Problem with Mercury If you’ve been reading this column regularly (and you HAVE haven’t you?) you may Feb 28 - Full Moon The Beehive Cluster has been seen by people This is one of my wintertime favorites. The Beehive Cluster Feb 13 - New Moon sky at sunset. You’ll need Feb 16 - Jupiter and Venus right together in the western JUPITER - Setting just after the sun all month. all month. SATURN - Rises ~2200 in Virgo and sets in the day time Sky Events This Month info below) Feb 8 - Mars very close to the Beehive Cluster (more to the right at 0545. Sky Feb 12 - Very thin crescent moon rises with Mercury just VENUS - May begin to be visible as an evening star in the western twilight. VENUS - May begin to be visible money from the government. EARTH - Waiting for bailout early in the month and then earlier and earlier as MARS - Rises ~1800 in Cancer The Planets in February twilight early in the month at about 0530 and MERCURY - Rising in the morning

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The Beehive Cluster on February 8th at 2100. Notice location of Mars, Gemini The Beehive Cluster on February 8th at 2100. Notice location and Cancer THE SKY IN IN SKY THE have noticed that Mercury (and Venus) is only visible just before sunrise or just after sunset. Mercury is especially hard to see as it is closest to the sun. Both Mercury and Venus are called ‘inferior’ planets since they are closer to the sun than we are. for ages. Galileo sketched it in his notebook. This cluster of stars will appear as a for ages. Galileo sketched it in his notebook. This cluster 1). I can usually find it by first slight smudge in the constellation Cancer (see Figure your right from there. There is locating the Gemini Twins and then look down and to and the Beehive Cluster is also a nice triangle formed by the main stars of Cancer Steiners on it. Wow! The clus- right in the middle of that. Once you find it, train your this region making the stars ter stands out brightly as there is not much else in The cluster consists of about dramatic against the inky black of the nighttime sky. You won’t see that many in 1,000 stars that are gravitationally bound to each other. light years away. Close! Enjoy your binoculars. The whole cluster is about 500 to 600 well into the spring. — it will be up and around in the evening from now to a clear horizon. may already be too light but worth a try! it heads toward Gemini. sinking fast later in the month (more about Mercury below) sinking fast later in the month FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 (evenings) (northern sideofAdmiralty Bay) Located oppositeG.Y.E.

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new friends Boxxer from theyacht Below: Lorissa magic show Cordelia’s cruiser enthralled by Readers Right: Young Readers’ Program Mt. AiryYoung A Morningat return at1330.Ifyouareinterested,contactHopeon unteers tohelpyoungkidswiththereadingonSaturday.Weleaveat0900and traffic andweather,wasnowoncruiseractivities.“Wearestilllookingforvol- Young ReadersProgramisawonderfulexample ofthis. even camebywithplasticglassesanda bigbottleofrum-lacedeggnog. know cruisersIhadnotmetbefore.As weweresittingoutsidechatting,someone fun forbothcruisersandkids.Ienjoyed meetingJeanneandEverestgettingto of theothercruisers. for awhileandthenslippedoutsidetosit underthemangotreeandchatwithsome times seemedasfarwecouldgo),and generallykeptthemontheirtoes.Ilistened gave themspellingproblems,had recite theirmultiplicationtables(theseven disappear andappear,flickedascarfsoitchangedfromonecolortoanother. offered toputonashortmagicshow.Thekidswereenthralledasshemadeballs cruiser, Cordelia,fromaboatcalled Brittany slidawaywhileAkielbeatmehandilyathirdtime. the tableandshuffledtheminaveryprofessionalmanner.Hewontwogames and some dominoes.Iknewwasintroublefromthewayheexpertlyslidthemoutonto went. them howweshouldhandlethis.Theysuggestedreadingoneparagrapheach;so it we werejoinedbyBrittany,alatecomer.Inowhadtwoyoungreaders,soasked blushes withembarrassment.“Blushes,”saidAkiel.“Hemustbewhite.”Atthispoint commentary abouthisprowessatthesametime.Hisbigbrotherhearshim,and he where theyoungbasketballplayerwasshowingoffandgivingamake-believeradio without alwayshavingaprecisedefinitiontooffer.Wecamepointinthestory This quicklyremindedmehowmanywordsIknowandunderstandincontext, but we cameacrossawordhedidnotunderstand,wouldtalkaboutwhatitmeant. quite well.Wediscussedwordsthathedidnotknowhowtopronounce,andwhen Program, anditdependsonyachtingcoordinatorstomakehappen.Thankfully vides morethanhalfofthevolunteersworkingwithMt.AiryYoungReaders’ volunteers forfree;theypassahatgas.Rightnow,theyachtingcommunitypro- K&J Tours,aPortLouis-basedtaxidriver,heardaboutthis,heofferedtotransport joined in,catchingtwobusesallthewayupintohillstodoso.WhenKeithof called Mt. AiryYoungReaders’Programbegan. who didsomedamagetoherproperty.Shedecidedheneededschooling.Thusthe teacher inGrenada,tookiton.ThenJeannehadasmallproblemwithanotherkid with themneededsometutoringfortheirson,soEverest,whousedtobeaschool- who workedforyearsinEngland.Ontheirreturnhome,oneofthepeopleworking houses aredotted. a heavilywoodedslopewithfruitandsilk-cottontreesrisestoridge,onwhich is shadedbyabigmangotreeandstandsontheedgeoflargesportsfield.Beyond, Mt. Airy.Weclimbedoutintoaverypastoralscene.TheAiryCommunityCenter sounded intriguing,soIjoined. It was0745;theGrenadacruisers’VHFradionethadfinishedwithemergency Cruising isatitsbestwhencruisersget tointeractwithlocals,andtheMt.Airy It wasahighlyentertainingmorning,and theinteractionseemedbeneficialand In thefinalpartofprogram,Jeannesatcenterstagewithkidsinfront.She For thenextpartofthatday’sprogramwehadsomethingspecial.AGerman Work stoppedatexactly11:00.“Nowweplaygames,”Akielsaid,andhefetched The connectionwithyachtspeoplecamelater.AcruisernamedAubreyonayacht The directorsofthisprogramarrive;JeanneandEverestPascalareGrenadians Keith ofK&JTaxipickedup18usanddeliveredtothecommunitycenterin Valleda makes waslookingforsomethingtodo.Heheardaboutthisprogramand by ChrisDoyle Isis , hadoncebeenaprofessionalconjurorand Starshine slowly butcarefullyand subject thanI.Heread Akiel knewmoreaboutthe about basketball.Luckily, reading; thebookwas Akiel sohecouldpractice In mycaseIwasputwith paired offwithyoungsters. of theprogramwewere drifted in.Inthefirstpart aged fromaboutsixto15 dispelled aslotsofkids but thatideawasquickly teachers andnopupils, up, itlookedtomelikeall and thecenterwasopened on Isle Escape Marie on they havebeenthere: When wefirstarrived Starshine afterthenet.”It Reverie andnowHope .

, Dorison CHRIS DOYLE (2) DOYLE CHRIS FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 S D N A L 11 12 13 0859 14 0943 15 1025 16 1106 17 1146 (new) 18 1227 19 1310 20 1355 21 1443 22 1535 23 1630 24 1727 25 1826 26 1924 27 (full) 2021 28 2115 29 2351 2208 30 0000 2300 31 0044 SSLANDS II

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20 21 22 1646 23 1739 24 1836 25 1936 26 2036 27 2136 28 2234 March 2330 DATE TIME 0000 (full) 1 2 3 4 0023 5 0115 6 0207 7 0254 8 0352 9 0446 10 0540 0633 0724 0813 D N O OF THE MOON FEBRUARY - MARCH 2010 Y EYOND EEYOND MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE “James Mitchell was one of the longest serving Leaders in modern “James Mitchell was one of — The Rt. Hon. Sir John Major, Prime Minister, United Kingdom to read. “Extremely well written, very informative and very easy — The Rt. Hon. Jean Chretien, Prime Minister, Canada to be in the “Indeed a book worth reading by all West Indians and ought Law of the Sea, — Judge Anthony Lucky, International Tribunal for the interesting reading. “Whatever one’s political bent, this book should provide — Jam Rock Magazine Available in Bequia at Noah’s Arkade and the Bequia Bookstore, in Mustique Available in Bequia at Noah’s Arkade and the Bequia Bookstore, at Basil’s General Store, or on the Internet at amazon.co.uk and amazon.com at Basil’s General Store, or on the Internet at amazon.co.uk Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire BB democracy. This book tells you why.” The hours I spent with it in my hands were very enjoyable.” piece of work.” national, university and school libraries… an excellent The Hague the politician. It simply It gives an insight into the human family man as well as and tells the story of the life of a man: the circumstances, experiences islands’ and onto decisions which came together to propel him ‘beyond the the international stage.” February DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 0148 5 0239 6 0329 7 0419 8 0510 9 0607 10 0654 11 0746 12 0838 0928 13 1016 14 1101 15 1145 16 1226 (new) 17 1307 18 1347 19 1428 1511 1557 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. tide the floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! , Eleuthera Eleuthera I , an 80-foot . were outnum- Enid Eleuthera II Eleuthera II Part adventure story, part history of Part adventure story, part octogenarian Morris Nicholson, an active engineering Morris’s background was in wooden ketch built in 1895 as a coastal wooden ketch built in 1895 of 350 pounds trading ship. His life savings the skipper, were invested in the boat, but his luckless Clive Stevenson, informed crew they were broke in Algeciras, on the south coast of Spain. They had to raise cash by smuggling cigarettes and refrig- yacht chartering, set against a backdrop yacht chartering, set against to a remark- of political upheaval, this ode many of the able individual brings to life pioneers who wonderful scoundrels and in its made up the yachting community early years. focus of this residing in Bequia, is the an entire era, story, but it encompasses present day. from the early 1950s to the he set out but he was not a “yachtie” when from England aboard the for Ganter, and became familiar with navi- , by Richard Dey, Offshore Press. 328 pages. , by Richard Dey, Offshore with their children (and often with the book’s Nanin www.Xlibris.com/AdventuresintheTradeWind.html

Eleuthera II being built in Germany. The Kovens had a young family and over being built in Germany. The Kovens had a young family

was sold; by then his house on the hilltop was built. The latter part of this

Eleuthera II, out from under his crew, who were all shareholders, and gave them each only out from under his crew, who were all shareholders, This book is available from Morris Nicholson had a tremendous personal influence on the book’s author as a The book’s sole weakness is the author’s frequent side trips into island politics. By the late seventies, Morris was considering retiring when the Kovens offered him a Morris was stranded and furious, but his ability to fix things landed him a job in Morris was stranded and furious, but his ability to fix couple aboard In 1954 Morris met Gus and Jane Koven, an American The charter scene changed radically in the 1970s as Caribbean Sailing Yachts The author successfully combines the story of Morris’s adventures with those of The author successfully combines the story of Morris’s Adventures in the Trade Wind, The Story of Morris Nicholson, Pioneer Story of Morris Nicholson, in the Trade Wind, The Adventures BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF BOOK REVIEW

in 1960, and their photos and stories enchanted me, describing a world larger than A TIME, A LIFE A TIME, role model, and he served the same for this reviewer. My parents chartered II Little League baseball. When I began working as a charter skipper 17 years later, Morris was one of a half-dozen skippers based in Bequia who all pulled together and helped one another in times of need. There was no coast guard, and yachts had lim- ited services ashore, so advice and spare parts were freely swapped. Mr. Dey’s rela- tionship with Morris is similarly coloured by his admiration and affection for a man whose natural shyness as an old school Englishman is overshadowed by a generosity of spirit, love of life, and a unique adaptation to the islands befitting a gentle man. While interesting to a political junkie like myself, they could be distracting to readers less inclined to care about each island state’s development from colony to indepen- dence. On the other hand, the tremendous changes in the last 60 years did not occur in a vacuum, and some political background is necessary to this story, but the impact it had on Morris himself was negligible. book tells of Morris’s life and many varied interests ashore — his artwork, wood-turning creations, solar-power experiments, nine cats, and his ten years with Suzanne Walker, described as the happiest of his life, before she succumbed to cancer in 1994. three decades would sail piece of land from their estate on Bequia, on a ridge overlooking Admiralty Bay on one side and Mustique on the other. Morris swallowed the hook for good in 1985 when Eleuthera II and during a subsequent meeting in Bequia he was offered the job of skippering their and during a subsequent meeting in Bequia he was offered larger bered by their smaller and cheaper competitors. St. Lucia working for Bert Ganter, a Trinidadian entrepreneur who was helping to St. Lucia working for Bert Ganter, a Trinidadian entrepreneur the city. Morris crewed, then rebuild Castries after a fire in 1948 destroyed much of skippered, the 80-foot powerboat ISBN 978-1-4363-9436-9. a trip they made three times erators from Tangier, Morocco to the Canary Islands, in 1952, Stevenson sold over the next year. Finally setting out for the New World Enid US$200 in Martinique. help to establish a marina in gating the islands south to Trinidad, as Ganter needed the early charter yachts from Vigie Cove. The marina in Vigie became a place where operation at English Harbour, Desmond Nicholson’s (no relation to Morris) charter Antigua came for repairs. to Bermuda, Nova Scotia, author, a neighborhood friend) throughout the Caribbean, to cross the Pacific, but the Mediterranean, and the Aegean Sea. They had planned north of Colombia. Morris bad weather caused a rogue wave to injure several crew and was saved by a quick- was washed overboard, but he hung on to the toerail aboard. In Haiti Eleuthera’s thinking Jane, who grabbed his wrist and hauled him they entered a quiet harbour crew was shot at by Duvalier’s Tonton Macoutes when Puerto Rican authorities, who late at night. Using the boat’s AM radio, Morris called was injured, but the ordeal contacted the Haitian authorities. Fortunately no one of lasted 90 minutes and shots damaged the pristine hull (CSY) introduced the bareboat charter and the idea was copied (more successfully) by The Moorings. The concept was that a fleet of identical boats could be maintained more efficiently than a disparate fleet, and paid for by separate owners on a lease- back plan. This allowed sailors from northern climates to skipper a boat in the islands (assuming they were qualified — if not, a local skipper was available) and do their own cooking. As a result, crewed charter yachts like the early charter captains aboard their crewed yachts. Morris initially ran charters the early charter captains aboard their crewed yachts. career, preferring St. Lucia, from Antigua but was not based there for most of his bend) elbows with the trail- Grenada, and later, Bequia. He did rub (and sometimes Don Street, Mitch Mitchell, blazers of Caribbean chartering including Jol Byerley, Stan and Ron Young, John Carl Schuster, Ian Spencer, Jim Squires, Jack Ramm, Scott-Hughes (“Hot Screws”), Clegg, Barbara Stevens, Douglas Terman, and Richard are interwoven with among many others. The lives of these colourful characters including Reg Calvert, those of the unusual cruisers who shared Morris’s company and Eric Hiscock. There Banana Bill, Voodoo Jack Lindsay, Errol Flynn, Eric Allcard, for the islands (and often, are also the many movers and shakers who created wealth who created Moonhole, Niels but not always, for themselves), such as Tom Johnston, (PSV Resort), John and Mary Thomsen of Friendship Bay Hotel, Haze Richardson Caldwell (Palm Island), Jack Van Ost (CSY), Walter Boudreau (Marigot Bay), and Bill Stevens (Stevens Yachts). Charterboat Skipper, and of Yacht Chartering in the West Indies in the Half in the West Indies Skipper, and of Yacht Chartering Charterboat World War Century after the Second FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Rumex acetosa Christmas drink,“sorrel”,madefromthesepalsof almond essence,indrinkssuchasthetraditional stew inJamaica. nish water”,whichisthetermusedtoreferthis waitress said,theirgoatwaterisnotweaklike“man- Montserrat’s signatureisalotofcloves.Also,asone twist ontherecipe,andMontserratisnoexception. serve thisdish.However,eachislandputsitsown tasty. ManyotherislandsintheEasternCaribbean is basicallyastewmadewithgoatmeat,whichvery ple thenationaldishofisland,“goatwater”,which some colddrinkswhileyouarethere. bined withamini-martinthefrontsoyoucanbuy a combinationofthose.Thebakeryinbackiscom- with butter,creamycheddarcheese,tunaorSpam your sandwichesyourself,orhaveasandwichmade has acrunchycrustandyoucangetitplain,tomake referred toas“greasebread”.Thislongnarrowbread a widevarietyofpastries,theybakewhatislocally on theislandmakesandwichesforbreakfast.Besides wich fromPeter’sBakery.Mostifnotallofthebakeries baked chickenatseveninthemorning? Who knewyoucouldgetmeatpiesandahotpieceof his car,andhepromptlydroveoverwithgoods! local breakfast.Shecontactedavendorwhosellsfrom supermarkets ontheislandthatwewerelookingfora quest, onemorningwetoldtheownerof snackettes thatsellavarietyofmeatpies.Inour American-style breakfasts.However,therearemany them caterfortouristsandserveEuropean-or breakfast, hardtodoinarestaurantbecausemostof our culinaryadventureonthisbeautifulisland. entire island,includingitscuisine.HereIwilldocument the islandbefore.Oneofourgoalswastoexplore Here Iwasassistedbyoneofmyfriendswhohadvisited diversity ofthespiderfaunainEasternCaribbean. Isle —Montserrataspartofmyresearchonthebio- up their stalls at the side of the road. A quick drive up theirstallsatthesideofroad.Aquickdrive three o’clockintheafternoon,youseelocalssetting the weekendsisquiteastapleevent.Fromasearly In Montserrat,clovesarealsoused,alongwith During ourtimeontheislandwewereabletosam- However, myfavouritelocalbreakfastwasasand- One ofourgoalswastotasteatrueMontserratian In September2009IwasfortunatetovisittheEmerald As with many islands in the Caribbean, a barbecue on As withmanyislandsintheCaribbean,abarbecueon plant. canned food from allaround theworld The bestsupplierofchilled, frozen and located inWoodlands,whichservesbarbecueon ting onaweekend,youcantrytheRoyalPalmClub on bigloudspeakers,whileothershavelivemusic. ing tacticstoattractcustomers,suchasplayingmusic times ameretenfeetaway.Somestallsemployinterest- of stallsincreases,withthenearestcompetitionsome- lar thisfoodis.Astheeveningprogresses,number not affectedbythevolcano—quicklyrevealshowpopu- around thesafenorthernpartofisland— However, ifyoucravebarbecueinarestaurantset- & wholesale Supermarket Adventures in big dividends In Montserrat,exploringtinyeateriescanpay Montserrat Eating on by Jo-AnneNinaSewlal ALL ASHORE… for ourvaluedGrenadinescustomers to theplaneandferryservices Don't forget,wedeliverdaily Ocar (NexttoGYE) New inBequia: E-mail: [email protected] St.Vincent &the Grenadines Calliaqua

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for you.Theymakefreshfoodlike at work,thenKarishma’sIndianTakeawayistheplace nience ofheatingitupanywhereyouare,athomeor sauces. ButifyouwantIndianfoodwiththeconve- don’t likeorareallergicto,suchaspeanutsinsome to fityou;forexamplehecanleaveoutingredientsyou one cook.Heisveryobligingandcanadjustyourorder supermarket, andalltheculinarymagicisdoneby is actuallyakitchenlocatedinthebackofAshok’s take-out, tryAshok’s.LocatedinthetownofBrades,it menu, providedtheyhavetheingredients. and willevenmakedishesforyouthatarenotonthe variety ofdishes.Theownerisveryaccommodating despite thismonopoly,theyhaveawideandtasty is theonlyChineserestaurantonisland.However, countries onMontserrat.TheAnfaChineseRestaurant you visittheisland.Itisalsoonlytimetheyopen! nut chips.ASundaylunchthereisadefinitemustwhen Another treatistheappetizerplateoffresh-bakedcoco- can getamixifyouarenotsurewhatwanttotaste. barbecued meatssuchaspork,fishandbeef,you just therightamountofspice.Theyserveavariety the wait.Themoistandtendermeatisseasonedwith while youwaitforyourfood,andbelievemeitisworth anchors. Theyactasinterestingconversationpieces and collectionofoldartifactssuchasirons,kettles When youenter,arestruckbythecolourfuldecor structure lookstinybutcanseatupto50persons. Little BaynexttoTheGreenMonkeyDiveShop,this the bestbarbecuedchickenIhavetasted.Locatedin taurant optionforweekendbarbecueandservessomeof with otherpatronswhileyouwaitforyourmeal. is awinebarwhereyoucanhavedrinkandsocialize side. Giventhealtitude,yougetagreatview,andthere your ownprivatehideawaytuckedintothemountain- very quiet.Whenyouareherefeellikein Friday nights.Thesettinghereisquitecharmingand —Continuedonnextpage unique tothecountry. Indian cookingbuthasbeengreatlymodifiedandis most ofthe“Indian”cuisineismerelyinfluencedby places inTrinidad&Tobago,whereIamfrom, places serveauthenticIndianfood,notlikemost curries andwillmakespecialorders.Bothofthese Indian foodispopularontheisland,andifyouwant Besides barbecue,youcanfindfoodfromother Pont’s BeachViewBarandRestaurantisanotherres- my keytosuccess Gourmet Foodis Christian Fredriksson,Chef,Sweden Cruiseship Terminal Shop 118Kingstown in thekitchen

CALL 456 2987

YOUR ORDER!

TO PLACE naan , samosas and FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of are now back as DVDs. restaurants and hotels. restaurants and Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’s guides are timeless. Street’s Guides and DVDs are available NEW! With all these updates readily available, With all these updates readily Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. There is nothing general about Basil's Great General up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine up-to-date Imray information on tracking and securing for a storm. Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist any guide; similarly, the tourist up-to-date than Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Ten Ten Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com departments put out a free annual guide for bars, out a free annual guide for departments put infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free every island puts out infrastructure, virtually marine trade guide every year, which is much more every year, which is much marine trade guide DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on — or if they do they are shown Rocks don’t move at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS GOOD GUIDES HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harborReal sailors use Street’s Guides anecdotes of people,piloting directions, plus interesting are the only ones thatplaces and history. Street’s Guides describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Basil’s Bar : Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. perfect for island joy. as bright as the sea and as light as air... : Fabrics WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air

www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Newly opened full service SPA located in Villa across from Young Island. Also At across from Young Newly opened full service located in Villa SPA Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit Mustique

Elegant island evening and playful day wear. For women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts to women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts For Elegant island evening and playful day wear. silver and gemstone jewelry. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers take STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces. French with fine Store. Bountifully stocked foods in Paradise. Imported cigars and an unusual collection of books not to be missed. Fine Call (784) 488-8407. FOREVER: ACROSS has a magnificent collection of furniture from Asia and beyond, contemporary Across Forever pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407. BAR: BASIL’S conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals are some of the best on the island. Now offering full catering services. Call (784) 457-2713. BASIL’S: AT Basil’s is a collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary pieces from Asia and beyond, and more. December 2009 Opening of a new coffee shop by the sea. Call (784) 456-2602 Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S renovated, the new face Recently Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. lobster in season, steaks andof Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more: offering fresh seafood, can enjoy sunset cocktails andthe best beefburger in the Caribbean. Now equipped with WIFI, you in the Caribbean. The Mustique catch up on the web. Basil’s Bar is home of the only Blues Festival 10, 2010. Breakfast service at 8:00am. begins place January 27 - February takes Blues Festival Lunch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails anytime and plan Up and BBQ. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHF 68. Night Jump to attend the Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors Exploring the cuisine of Montserrat added a special cuisine of Montserrat added Exploring the the volcano in Editor’s note: In early January, perfect example is a milkshake. In some ice-cream is a milkshake. In some perfect example for they have the equipment parlours on Montserrat but they do or soft-serve ice cream making milkshakes on the since electricity is very expensive not serve them the machines is not profitable. island and running visit here, my visit. So the next time you dimension to not try tak- in the Caribbean, why or any other place discover! tour and see what you can ing a culinary activity. Visit www. Montserrat was showing increased or tune in to ZJB montserratvolcanoobservatory.info at 1600 hours local radio Montserrat, 95.5/88.3FM update on recent activity. time (2000 UTC) for a daily Grenada Continued from previous page Continued from However, I must note that if you visit the island you In most of the restaurants we visited on Montserrat, Secondly, there is the Gourmet Gardens, located not This building has a great history. It was once the This building has a great Of the many restaurants we visited on the island, two we visited on the Of the many restaurants we would often pass a tiny, quaint wooden structure pass a tiny, quaint wooden we would often might find some items expensive or non-existent. A I found “bush tea” to be an almost standard beverage I found “bush tea” to be an almost standard beverage on the menu. The term may sound exotic, but the type of bush tea available in each restaurant varies and really depends on what they have growing in their individual gardens. Mint and lemongrass were com- mon flavours. too far from the Olveston House. Besides serving deli- cious food, this establishment is also a haven for book lovers. When you enter you are struck by the piles of books on tables and on shelves along the walls. So while you wait for your order you can browse through and might find some treasures. Patrons are welcome to bring in books they have finished reading and take new ones, but an exchange is not mandatory. director’s house on a plantation that cultivated limes director’s house on a plantation Vitamin C to prevent to supply British sailors with the nickname Limeys.) It scurvy. (This earned them station of Radio once housed the broadcasting has functioned as a cin- Montserrat and its basement it was purchased by the ema. In the early 1980s for the Beatles, Sir owner of Air Studios and producer artists such as Eric George Martin, and hosted Clapton, Elton John, Sting and Paul McCartney who had come to the island to record their songs. stood out. The first is the Olveston House Restaurant first is the Olveston House stood out. The five acres in Salemha.and Guest House, set on and Margaret Wilson, theOperated by Carol Osborne English meals with arestaurant serves traditional liked during my visitCaribbean twist. What I especially Wednesday nights therewas their “themed” nights. On are “Pub Nights” withis a buffet barbecue and Fridays and steak and kidney pie.fare such as fish and chips, Montserrat is under theYou have to remember that so what better waygovernance of the United Kingdom, without going all the wayto enjoy some English cuisine to the United Kingdom? along the way in Fogarthy Hill and there would always in Fogarthy Hill and there along the way got a chance curious, when we be a crowd. Becoming for the We found a definite reason we paid a visit. food such serve excellent local crowd. The proprietors some of the and saltfish, fresh salad and as provisions I have eaten in my life. best baked chicken — FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up Located atGingerbreadCafé Tel: (784)5937264 BEQUIA Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: Hi by earlysummer. in thelagoonandwehopetohaveanewordinance local government. nance willhavetobewritten,reviewedandpassedby services tocruisingboatsinthelagoon.Anewordi- being abletomaintainthebridgeandofferproper the bestapproachtoreworkthosetariffswhilestill ing meetingswiththemarineindustrytodetermine currently reviewingtheaccountsofSLACandhold- nance ontheadviceofSLAC.ThePortsAuthorityare Immigration), thetariffsweresetbygovernmentordi- (posted atwww.heinekenregatta.com/Island-Info/ charged aweekagainiftheymovedtoPhilipsburg. sel payingforaweekinSimpsonBayandthenbeing now beeneliminated,ashasthedoublechargeforaves- another weekuponclearingin.Thatdoublechargehas come backwithinthatsameweekwerebeingchargedfor the past,vesselsthathadpaidfeeforaweekand went intoeffectregardingthechargingofweeklyfees.In the PortsAuthority.OnJanuary1st,2010,anewpolicy local economy,SLAChasrecentlybeentransferredto awareness oftheimpactmarineindustryon because ofoureffortsandwithanewgovernment fees thatwereintroducedonJanuary1st,2008.Inpart Lagoon AuthorityCorporationsincetheinceptionof actively pursuingredressagainsttheSimpsonBay Dear CC as manypeopledo. can cometoSintMaartenandavoidfeesaltogether— including insidethelagoononFrenchside,soyou there arenofeesonmanyotherpartsoftheisland, for anupdate,whichfollows.Also,keepinmindthat Dear AlanandAnne, Freya ofClyde Alan andAnneDunlop ous websites,buttheyhavenotyetbeenupdated. you directustosomeonewhodoes?We’vetriedalltheobvi- these newfeesare.Doyouhavethisinformation,orcan Maarten. Wehavebeenunsuccessfulinfindingoutwhat Simpson BayLagoon.ItmayjusttemptusbacktoSt. issue’s BusinessBriefsregardingthereductioninfeesat FFORUM RREADERS' In themeantime,workshavealreadycommenced As farastheratesforbridgeandweeklyfees The St.MaartenMarineTradesAssociationhasbeen We askedtheSt.MaartenMarineTradesAssociation We wereinterestedtoreadtheiteminJanuary Compass O Compass E R A , U D , M E R S '

—Continuedonnextpage Antigua &BarbudaMarineTradesAssociation John Duffy Regards, reporter untilthependingcriminalcaseisresolved. conclusions shouldbedrawneitherbymeoryour dent whichmayornotbeaccurate;therefore,no closed down. obtaining drugs.Thebar/restauranthassincebeen quented thisbar/restaurantwasforthepurposeof be readilyavailable.Themainreasonyachtcrewfre- crew andinwhichrecreationaldrugswereknownto bar/restaurant regularlyfrequentedbyyoungyacht he wouldhavebeenayachtsmanashadjustleft or aconstructionworker,itismuchmorelikelythat for about100yardsbeforethecriminalproducedagun. resistance”. Theyachtskipperchasedapurse-snatcher of personalsafety:“whenaccosted,neverputupany quantity of“whitesubstance”onhisperson. than justacasualuserandthathewasfoundwith alleged thattheyachtskipperinquestionwasmore difficult tomakedefinitivecomments.However,itis regulated yachtsandothersailingvisitors. who areseekingdrugsbutthoseofsmaller,lesswell- ational drugs.Usually,itisnotthecrewofmegayachts yacht crewandothersvisitingtheislandseekingrecre- in theEnglishHarbour/Falmouthareaifitwasnotfor comments needclarifying. January. Ifeelthatanumberofissuesraisedbyher comments onthemurderofayachtskipperherelast I presumefallintothatcategoryasmademany her commentsrelatingtothe“spindoctors”inAntigua. Melodye Pompaonyachtsecurityand,inparticular, in thesameissuewrittenbyyourcorrespondent Ministry ofAgriculturebutwilldosonow. remiss innotfollowingupmyinitialapproachtothe rience ofyourcorrespondent.Ihavebeenslightly heard nothing;however,thatdoesnotlessentheexpe- owners tocontactmewiththeirexperiencesIhave tion ofdomesticanimals.Havinginvitedotheryacht the MinistryofAgricultureinAntiguaforimporta- agreed totrygetsomereasonableguidelinesfrom correspondent LiesbetCollaerthasremindedmethatI in January’s Dear S/Y Oriole John Lytle and givinghimasignalreport. ciate thosewithaHamlicensecheckinginhim St. Lucia. tact withhiminearlyJanuaryRodneyBayMarina, as goodwithhis80-metreloop,butIhadcon- off alongwireantennasohistransmissionswillnotbe be onfrequency.Forthetimebeinghewillworking check histransmissionstrengthwithwhoevermight at 0630localtimeandthenswitchingto3855LSB Caribbean EmergencyandWeatherNeton3815LSB Currently heisgivingabriefweatherforecastonthe up andrunningnowon3855LSBat0630localtime. Emergency Net,withhisweatherforecast—shouldbe Dear St MaartenMarineTradesAssociation Kass Johnson,President Best regards, Finally, thereisalotmoreinformationontheinci- Fourthly, whilethevictimcouldhavebeenabanker Thirdly, theyachtskipperignoredfundamentalrule Secondly, asthemurdercaseisstill Firstly, therewouldnotbemuchofadrugsproblem While writing,Iamslightlyconcernedbythearticle Reading theletterinJanuaryissuefromyour [Re: “SelectedCaribbeanShortwaveWeatherReports” Please spreadthewordaroundandhewouldappre- Compass Compass Compass , Readers, ] EricMackie—9z4cpTrinidad sub-judice , itis FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA

Mermaid and recorded sailed Readers, had sprung a serious leak in the 12-foot a serious leak in the 12-foot had sprung off of the reef. Compass PS Went out with friends the other day to find my We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines Under very light wind I finally sailed into the anchor- Under very light wind I finally much of anything for I will not be complaining about guide for this area is Whoever wrote the cruising Mermaid with a torn eight-miles-a-day later — So, 15 days of and got underway I then re-hoisted my torn mainsail his observations and experiences while under sail — his observations and experiences while under sail — very much the essential info needed by the engineless adventurer in order to enjoy or even visit any of the plethora of restaurants, bars, boutiques or what have you that have come to fill up most other guides. One must maintain a seaman’s perspective on arriving safely. Too many folks seem to study the menu before they have even located the restaurant! John Smith Mermaid of Carriacou anchors. Found them both within 100 feet of the reef in 20 feet of water. Was unable to pick up the 200- pound fisherman, “Dr. Jekyll/Mr. Hyde”, but with lift bags will try next week. This was the third place the beast saved my butt: , Key West and now Panama. There’s no such thing as an anchor that is too big, it’s just a question of how fast you can get it on the bottom. (Having a sharp cutlass handy is very important.) I’m not worried that it washes up even in the 12-foot surf running today. The surfers on the surface are blithely unaware of the chunk of metal under their curl and the joy of having had it hold Mermaid Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. moved to the east at less than a knot while being moved to the east at less by the huge seas. Heart swept back toward the surfline for several hours. in stomach, this continued brought over by a few age and, with a few Guinnesses since Curaçao... cruising friends I had not seen and praise. quite awhile, just giving thanks kind of person. definitely a motorboat or motorsailor very tough coast and lifts For the true sailor this is a my estimation of Chris Columbus and crew several pegs! That is why I will always prefer Don Street’s guides to any of the others. Don breaking seas north of Barranquilla and I was hoping north of Barranquilla and breaking seas but the wind to dive on the hull, to get into Portobello east. I was shift and blew me to the did a 180-degree nothing of different birds who thought joined by seven were plaguing me. the leaks which about 40 gal- steering and leaking mainsail, broken north of the I hove to about eight miles lons an hour — asleep. The channel and, of course, fell Bocas del Toro and the preventer current shifted into the northwest at 0515 about a hundred on the wheel broke. I awoke in ten-foot seas. yards from a surfer’s paradise staysail and cut the lash- Immediately I dropped the as well as a 20-kilo ings on my 250-pound fisherman Bruce anchor. Both held. the anchor rodes run. while hoisting my jib and letting over an hour as It was touch and go for , People, Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from I passed 150 miles north of the Rio Magdalena off of We are really upset that so many yachtspeople are Twenty-two days out of I arrived in Bocas del We took them onboard after noontime and they had We were sailing on a very low course, far to the west I am a skipper who recently was cruising the who recently was cruising I am a skipper Barranquilla, Colombia. Bypassed Cartagena because Barranquilla, Colombia. Bypassed Cartagena because I refuse to anchor anywhere that I cannot go swim- ming. Wonderful sailing into the Darien, in order to get away from all shipping, and passed just five miles north of the Hollandes Keys of Kuna Yala. Did not stop, but hooked up two marlin, neither of which came aboard — angry professional swordfighters are often a handful, especially for the singlehander. scared to help local people. When somebody is in the scared to help local people. When somebody is in the water, far away from any land, be sure that this is a serious situation — an emergency. There is no excuse for not helping them! Best, Klaus Eschmann Dear Toro, Panama on December 14th, 2009. It took 15 days to cover the last 120 miles against a powerful two- to three-knot easterly current and westerly wind, which stopped completely at night — unless there were squalls of 30 to 45 knots, almost always from the west, and of course it rained almost every day. lost their boat the night before. We were informed that lost their boat the night before. We were informed that they had a boat accident with four people, but there were only two life vests on board. The motor was bro- ken, waves entered the boat and it turned over. We rescued the two with life vests (I left them at a police station in north St. Vincent), but we don’t know what happened to the other two guys. of the rhumb line, and we were obviously their last of the rhumb line, and we were obviously their last chance. We stopped immediately and rescued the two men. After we gave them water and something to eat, they told us that they had been in the water for 12 hours and several yachts had passed by and seen them but NOBODY else stopped to help! After 12 hours in the water and still wearing his life vest, one of the two rescued men sleeps in Klaus’s cockpit we heard people screaming for help. Two men were spotted floating in the middle of the channel. — Dear 23rd, a couple of weeks. On December Grenadines for St. Vincent, from St. Lucia down to 2009, as we sailed FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Dear December 2009issueof were someold,verygreasyoilfiltersalreadydrippingthroughthebag. the cardisappearedatfullspeed.Thelaughthattimewasonourside—inbag a carpassedusslowly,thedooropened,mangrabbedmyplasticbag,andthen six yearscruisinginVenezuela.Also,oncewhenwewerestandingonthesidewalk, robbery armedwithakitchenknife;andtheworstispiracyfirearms. starts withchildrenpick-pocketingatthemarket;nextareyouthswhomakea going hungry,which,asMr.Burniewrote,bringsthemtothefirststepofcrime.It unarmed sailorsareamongtheeasiestvictims.Daily,moreVenezuelanpeople only toothers. ment —everythinglistedthereisreality.Anddon’tbelievethatthesecrimeshappen “Venezuelan Islands”,forreference.Pleasenote,thesewebpagesarenotentertain- out www.safetyandsecuritynet.com,“IslandReports”,“VenezuelanMainland”and be athighrisk. have notmuchchoice;theytakewhatcanget,andthosestillcruisingthere still cruisinginVenezuela.Ifthereareonlyafewvisitingyachtsleft,thenthepirates ors, thetrainedprofessionalkillers,oreventhosewant-to-know-it-exactlytypesare S/V Angelos Angelika Gruener until theyofferbettersecurityforcruisers. tries haveniceplaces,too.Thereforewe willreluctantlygiveupcruisingVenezuela fear forourlives!Itisnotnecessarytorisk one’slifetovisitaniceplace;othercoun- has superbcruisingareas,beautifulbeaches andfriendlypeople—buttodaywe don’t wishthistohappenothercruisers. Tobehonest,wefoundthatVenezuela lucky outcome)Icantellyou,donot want tohavesuchencountersagain,andI eyes. Wearenolongercarefreesailors;we feelwearefairgame. people anymore.NowwewatcheverypassingpirogueorfishingvesselwithArgus population, thereisabsolutelynosafetyforuscruisers.Sadly,wedon’ttrustlocal stay forseveralyears.Butaslongthegovernmentdoesnotoffersafetyitsown are willingtokillyougetwhattheywant;otherwisewouldnotusefirearms. ter peoplepointingfirearmsatyouanddemandingyourproperty,it’sagoodbetthey armed, trainedandwillingtoshoot,therewillbemanyfewerincidents. licenses tocarryfirearmsprotectourselves.Ifthebanditsrealizethatcruisers are left uptouscruiserstakeprecautionsagainsttheseoutlaws.Wehaveapply for of theyachtcrime.Theattackerscangetawaywithimpunity,andtheyknowit. It is tourism industries,whilecurrentlyinVenezuelaitseemsthatnobodyistakingcare in manyoftheislandsofficialstrytogetbadguyswhoaredetrimentaltheir between crimeagainstyachtsintheEasternCaribbeanislandsandVenezuelaisthis: are hungrylikewolves. maybe threeormorechildren.Itisnowonderthatcrimerisescontinuously;people earns onlyUS$150toUS$200amonth?Withthatamounthehasfeedwife and for thelocalpeople.Howcantheyaffordalivingwhen,example,goodworkman can getforourforeigncurrencyontheblackmarket;wehavetoconsiderprices the marketinwholecountry.ItisabsolutelyimmaterialhowmanyBfwevisitors or wheatflour,ricepasta.Asofthiswriting(December2009)thereisnosugaron official bankrate.Foryearstherehavebeenvariousshortages,whethermilkpowder bottle ofCaciquerumis35Bf(US$16.50)andonekiloonionsUS$6,allatthe than intheislandsEasternCaribbean.Abeeris3.5Bf(US$1.70);a750ml the bill,Idon’tknowwhatis“cheap”aboutbeingthere. is cheaphere.”Butiftheyhavetoaddthecostofastolenoutboardanddinghy least —motor-sailingfor30hoursagainstwindandwaves.Theanswerwas,“Living from wheretheoffshoretriptoEasternCaribbeanislandsisannoying,say where manydinghytheftsoccurincomparisontotherestofCaribbean,and Margarita. Iaskedthesailorswhytheystayatthatrollyanchorageformonths, yachties sailinginVenezuela. enough”. Thisgivespermissionforrobbery,andexplainswhyitisdangerousus blessing totakewhattheywantfromtherich“becausehavemorethan the richpeopledonotneedtwocarsorapartments,andhegivespoorhis than oncethepresidentproclaiminginhishours-longSundayradiospeechesthat Reading thearticle“CruisingVenezuela,Summer2009”byJohnBurniein We happenedtoexperienceallofthesetypescrimeatvarioustimesduringour The crimeinVenezuelaisnotonlyrelatedtoyachts,itpresenteverywhere,but Of course,someareasofVenezuelaaresaferthanothers.Takethetimetocheck Having beenavictimoffirearmattack in VenezuelaJanuary2008(withavery People inVenezuelaareusuallyveryniceandkindly,wereallyenjoyedour A discussionaboutthedefinitionofword“piracy”issplittinghairs.Ifyouencoun- Of course,criminalsexistandattackscanhappeneverywhere.Butonedifference By nownothingisreallycheapinVenezuela,andsomeitemsaremoreexpensive Although fewerthaninpastyears,therearestillmanyyachtsPorlamar, The country’sstrongCatholicismnolongerstopscrime.Imyselfhaveheardmore Compass , Compass the Month Letter of , itcomesintomymindthatonlythebravestsail- FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 .com , , once we have looked in more detail at how Compass Compass Compass The two suggestions made by Chris Doyle both have The first suggestion is, in our view, workable and The potential benefits of the first suggestion to the We would not support the 72- or 96-hour periods Customs and Immigration in both territories should Chris is quite right — this is an issue everyone Chris is quite right — this the importance of our MAYAG is very aware of excellent suggestions We have raised both Chris’s Editor’s note: We asked the Marine and Yachting We asked the Marine and Editor’s note: merit, although we think it will be difficult for the merit, although we think it will be difficult for the authorities both here and in Grenada to reach some agreement on this in the immediate future. As Chris says, other suggestions have been made over the years as to how the procedure can be simplified and enhanced, however they all carry potential risks to St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada when it comes to national security, knowing who is in our waters and, of course, the timely and proper collection of fees. straightforward. The second, however, I cannot see the authorities agreeing on. Clearance into another coun- try is a must. The captain and crew might remain the same — the contents of the yacht might not! yachting industries of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada are obvious, as too are the benefits to the yachting community and all those that provide supplies and services to yachts and yachtsmen. In the first instance we would encourage the authorities to get around a table and arrive at a draft of what would be workable for them. Thereafter it will ultimately be a matter for the respective governments cabinets to consider so that legislation amendments can be made and gazetted. mentioned, but suggest that in the first instance 48 hours would be a good starting point. Let us see how well this works and extend it thereafter, subject to the mutual agreement of the respective Governments. fully embrace ESeaClear and ensure that all the ports of entry are fully and properly equipped to take full advantage of what the system offers. This alone will be a great tool for the authorities in knowing who is where and expected arrivals and actual departures. John West SVGRMA agrees needs to be addressed, yet year after year it agrees needs to be addressed, the problems is that there remains the same. One of departments involved — are so many governmental Finance, Security, Port Customs, Immigration, interests among them. Authority and Marine Park Grenada’s yachting indus- “Grenadines Gateway” to yacht facilities, try. Grenada’s flight connections, ashore perfectly compli- supermarkets and attractions cruising ground, and ment the Grenadines’ fantastic movement between any moves to ease and encourage islands are beneficial for everyone. with the Minister of Tourism and we will report back to they might work. Anita Sutton MAYAG Dear the reverse would be true. I hope these suggestions be true. I hope these the reverse would sailing tour- into account; I’d love to see can be taken Grenada reach its full potential. ism in SVG and and the St. Vincent & Association of Grenada (MAYAG) Marine Association the Grenadines Recreational to Chris’s suggestions. (SVGRMA) for their responses They follow: Dear

would be advantageous would be advantageous EASY FIX across the SVG-Grenada border Improving ease of yacht movement movement ease of yacht Improving Nations’ Yacht Trade: Nations’ Yacht for the tourismfor economies of both nations hd l ff THERE IS AN THERE The second suggestion is similar: to offer pre- Improving ease of yacht movement across the SVG- The first is to implement a 72-hour or 96-hour in- The first is to implement a Border Rules Hamper Two Border Rules clearance for departing yachts that will not be outside clearance for departing yachts that will not be outside of national waters for more than, say, 72 or 96 hours, and will not be changing crew. When the skipper clears out, he can also clear back in at the same time, specifying the day of return. The skipper pays all fees and completes all paperwork in advance, so the yacht can come back into the country without visiting Customs again. There could be an extra charge for this, which would help government revenue. This would save another visit to Customs and, with the measure above, make things twice as easy for the yachting visitor. Grenada border would be advantageous for the tour- ism economies of both nations. In the case of SVG, this would be added value for the large number of bareboaters who visit the country and also want to dip into Grenada waters. For Grenada’s yachting industry, and-out clearance for arriving yachts. This means and-out clearance for arriving yachts. This means yacht skippers could clear in and out using the same form when the yacht is not staying in the country longer than the prescribed time period and is not changing crew. This is not a new concept; St. Lucia has had a 72-hour in-and-out clearance for as long as I can remember, and it has not been a problem. Dominica more recently introduced a two-week in- and-out clearance and it, too, is working well. Just this step alone would cut out one visit to Customs and Immigration and reduce the red-tape burden on the cross-boundary yachting visitor by 25 percent. midable task. I would like, therefore, to respectfully I would like, therefore, to midable task. the Customs of small changes to propose a couple These two both SVG and Grenada. regulations of nation to should be painless for each improvements halve the its own, and together would implement on present hassle. DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE FROM TI KANOT DECK VIEW Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

in company with them and we did it. we did it. in company with them and Ti Kanot

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since

Over the New Year’s holiday this year, some rela- Over the New Year’s holiday Few people indeed want to spend that much time of Few people indeed want to A couple of years ago, a friend came to sail with me ago, a friend came to A couple of years Many people have tried to do something about the The shame of this bureaucratic hindrance is that it (Also, if a charter group leaves Grenada, they now (Also, if a charter group leaves Grenada, they now When planning a cruise, yachtspeople might be I just want to spell this out a bit for any official that

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tives of mine chartered a boat for a week out of boat for a week out of tives of mine chartered a to revisit the Tobago Cays. Grenada and really wanted I sailed a sailing holiday dealing with red tape, so currently a sailing holiday dealing with or the other of the bor- many yachts stay on one side both nations’ economies. der — a loss to them and to governments of both SVG From the point of view of the that clear in and out and Grenada, the more yachts fee every time. Yet (with the the better: they get a good to a single clearance form) welcome exception of going much to facilitate yachts neither government has done the two countries. cruising back and forth between for a week out of Grenada. We had a good week. of Grenada. We had for a week out are a sailing Grenadines as a whole Although the because to in Grenada waters, Mecca, we remained and return & the Grenadines (SVG) visit St. Vincent and Immigration four would involve clearing Customs SVG, out of SVG, and back times: out of Grenada, into in reverse applies to into Grenada. The same situation waters from SVG. boats wanting to visit Grenada Grenadines-border stumbling block over the last 15 years. Yet year after year we get nowhere. Part of the problem is that getting the Customs and Immigration Departments of the two countries to agree on how best to remove this impediment to yacht tourism is a for- is handicapping the expansion of good charter busi- ness between SVG and Grenada that would be benefi- cial to both countries. Combined, Grenada and SVG have the most ideal bareboat and crewed chartering waters in the Caribbean. Bareboaters and crewed charter guests are excellent tourists, well inclined to eat out, take tours and buy souvenirs. It would be a profitable business sector to expand. have to fill in all the airport Immigration forms as have to fill in all the airport Immigration forms as well as the yacht forms when they re-enter. Had they stayed in Grenada, they would not have had to do anything.) happy to visit a port of clearance, but probably will not happy to visit a port of clearance, but probably will not want to visit the same port of clearance more than once. However, as things stand, if they want to visit Grenadine islands in both territories, they are forced to. So Customs and Immigration regulations are really putting a major damper on the very idea of a short sailing vacation that includes both SVG and Grenada waters. To ask people to spend time on four of six sail- ing days dealing with Customs and Immigration paperwork is a bit like telling a hotel tourist who comes for a week that he must, on four separate days, go spend time in the Immigration office in town. For promoting tourism, it is a non-starter. might happen to read this. A typical one-week yacht might happen to read this. A typical one-week yacht charter needs to include time to learn about and provi- sion the boat, so in reality the charterers often only have six days of sailing. Added to which, any single week is going to include a weekend when Customs hours are shorter, plus there is likely to be a public holiday, gear breakdown or weather-related hiccup. In other words, their vacation time is precious. Clearing out of Grenada, and into SVG, and out of and into SVG, and out of Clearing out of Grenada, was just the kind of SVG, and into Grenada again bureaucratic hassle that I expected — and my rela- tives regretted it. They said they would not do this trip again for that reason. FEBRUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42

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