© Lonely Planet Publications 15 Destination Bulgaria Five centuries subjugated to Ottoman rule and, more recently, four dec- ades locked very firmly behind the Iron Curtain turned Bulgaria into a distant, enigmatic country in the eyes of much of the rest of the world. Images of cheap wine downed at student house parties, budget ski holi- days and umbrella-wielding Cold War assassins were once among the popular stereotypes, but Bulgaria today is a vastly different country from what it was even 10 years ago. A fully paid-up member of NATO and (since 2007) the EU, Bulgaria FAST FACTS has the feel of a nation at a very important crossroads. Massive foreign Population: 7.33 million investment has created a construction boom, not just around the larger beach and mountain tourist resorts, but in the cities, too. More tourists Area: 110,910 sq km than ever are discovering this country and an ever-rising number of for- GDP per capita: eigners are investing in property here. At the same time, the Bulgarian US$10,700 population is declining faster than almost anywhere else in Europe, wages Inflation: 7.3% are amongst the lowest on the continent – prompting increasingly long and bitter strikes – and the old problems of bureaucratic incompetence Unemployment rate: 9.6% and organised crime bubble away in the background. The environmental Average life expectancy: damage caused by overdevelopment has been a particular cause for public 69 (m), 76 (f) alarm over recent years, and there are several national and international Literacy rate: 98.2% organisations campaigning to bring some of these issues to wider world Highest point: Mt Musala attention (see p72 ). However much they complain, though, Bulgarians (2925m) are a patriotic, if modest, bunch – when they ask you, as they often will, if you like their country, they genuinely care that you leave with good Export: Bulgaria produces impressions. 10% of the world’s For most foreign holidaymakers, Bulgaria’s main lure is its long, sandy rose oil coastline – which still boasts swaths of stunning beaches and picturesque Body language: Bulgarians bays despite the expansive construction work – but there is so much more shake their heads for ‘yes’ to this country, and so much of it remains largely untouched and unvis- and nod for ‘no’ ited by overseas tourists. Networks of well-maintained hiking trails and horse-riding routes allow you to discover Bulgaria’s lush mountainous and forested landscapes, inhabited by bears, lynx, rare birds and other kinds of wildlife now becoming scarce elsewhere in Europe. Getting around the country is easy, with cheap and efficient public transport to ferry you between the cities and into the remoter, rural corners, where the traditional, slow pace of life continues much as it has done for centuries. Here you’ll come across multicoloured monasteries, filled with fabulous icons and watched over by bushy-bearded priests, and impossibly pretty timber-framed villages with smoke curling lazily over the stone-tiled roofs and donkeys complaining in the distance, where headscarfed old ladies and their curious grandchildren still stare in wonderment at the arrival of outsiders. The cities, too, are often overlooked highlights, from dynamic, cosmopolitan Sofia with its lovely parks, sociable alfresco bars and fascinating museums, to the National Revival architectural treasures and Roman remains of Plovdiv, and the youthful maritime cockiness of Varna. Prices have certainly risen since Bulgaria became a member of the EU, but compared with countries in Western Europe, travellers will find it by and large a pleasingly cheap destination, and an easy and enjoyable one to travel round once you’ve mastered the Cyrillic alphabet and enough Bulgarian to buy a bus ticket. Bring your own transport and the whole country is yours to explore. 16 Getting Started Travelling independently in Bulgaria is cheap, relatively hassle-free and im- mensely rewarding. Public transport is generally reliable and inexpensive, and will get you around most of the country, although if you’re looking to explore the place in any great depth, you’ll certainly require your own wheels, especially for the more remote, rural areas. The accommodation options are vast, ranging from private rooms and budget guesthouses, where nobody is likely to speak foreign languages, up to international five-star hotels that can be booked online. Remember that Bulgarians use the Cyrillic alphabet, and it’s essential that you get acquainted with this before you travel. English is widely understood in the big cities and tourist centres, and German is the more common second language in the coastal resorts, but in the countryside, knowledge of foreign languages is rare. Older, better-educated Bulgarians often have a smatter- ing of French. Don’t rely on staff at bus and train stations anywhere, even in Sofia, speaking anything but Bulgarian, but learning a few basic phrases will certainly ease your passage and make your trip much more enjoyable. The new tourist offices in the main cities will be very happy to help with any queries and staff at backpacker hostels and upscale hotels, which are more used to dealing with international guests, almost always speak English and will have plenty of information to hand. Most foreign tourists still come to Bulgaria on all-inclusive package deals, either for sunbathing on the coast or skiing in the mountains, which can work out to be quite cost-effective as they also include airfares. If you’re based at a beach or ski resort, it’s easy to visit nearby attractions by public bus, hire car or on day trips organised by local tour companies. Some agencies based in Sofia (see p86 ) run a huge range of day trips and multiday activity and special-interest tours, so if you’re keen on archaeology, bird-watching, botany, caving or climbing (to name just a few), these are a good way to see the best that the country has to offer. WHEN TO GO Bulgaria has a temperate climate with cold, damp winters and hot, dry summers. The Rodopi Mountains form a barrier to the moderating See Climate Charts ( p285 ) Mediterranean influence of the Aegean, while the Danube Plain is open for more information. to the extremes of central Europe. Sofia’s generally favourable climate is one of its main attributes, with average daytime highs of 28°C in July and August and 3°C from December to February. The Black Sea moderates temperatures in the east of the country. Rainfall is highest in the moun- tains, and in winter life throughout Bulgaria is sometimes disrupted by heavy snowfalls. Spring (particularly April to mid-June) is an excellent time to visit. The weather is good, the theatres and other cultural venues are in full swing and low-season rates still generally apply. Summer (mid-June to early September) is ideal for hiking and festivals, but it’s also the peak holiday season, especially on the Black Sea coast. Temperatures can be very high during this period too. September is perhaps one of the best months to see Bulgaria. The autumn trees are glorious, fruit and vegetables are plentiful, the tourist hordes have returned home, and you can still sunbathe and swim in the Black Sea. By mid-October, almost all Black Sea resorts have closed down. As the weather gets colder over the next two months, a gloom about the lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED •• Costs & Money 17 DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… Valid travel insurance (see p288 ) Sturdy boots and a day-pack if you intend to do any hiking Toilet paper A towel if staying at budget accommodation Sunscreen and a sun-hat if travelling in summer An adaptor plug A water bottle for filling at public fountains Mosquito repellent A travel insurance policy (www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings) covering mountaineering, rock climbing, diving and skiing Checking out the Thorn Tree forum (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) for more great tips, travel news and views impending winter (December to March) permeates Bulgaria. Then, as soon as the first snows fall in around mid-December, Bulgarians start to perk up and flock to the ski resorts, which sometimes stay operating until mid-April. The high season along the Black Sea coast is mid-July to late August; at the ski resorts, it’s Christmas/New Year and February to mid-March. If you avoid these places at these times, you may be astounded at how few tourists there are in Bulgaria. COSTS & MONEY Since Bulgaria joined the EU in 2007, the dual-pricing system that used to be HOW MUCH? in force – whereby foreigners were often charged considerably more for hotel Coffee at street kiosk: rooms and museum admission fees than locals – has been abolished. Inevitably, 0.60 lv prices have risen, but travelling around the country remains relatively cheap. All food, drink and forms of transport are surprisingly inexpensive compared Bus/tram ticket: 0.70 lv with Western European countries, but imported luxury goods, such as inter- Kebabche (grilled spicy national-brand fashion and cosmetics, cost much the same as anywhere else. meat sausages) and A camping site costs about 10 lv per person and a room in a private home can chips: 4 lv cost anywhere between 12 lv and 30 lv, depending on the location. In a budget Bottle of decent Bulgarian hotel (outside Sofia) a single room costs from 20 lv, 40 lv for a double. In a mid- wine: 5 lv range hotel a single room is roughly 40 lv, a double 60 lv. You can get a simple meal at a cheap café from as little as 3 lv, and you’re unlikely to spend more CD of Bulgarian music: than about 15 lv for a main course, even in more upmarket restaurants.