PAGE 8 — WEDNESDAY, NOV. 11, 2009 ‹ CLOVERDALE REVEILLE • CLOVERDALE, CALIFORNIA Why Cloverdale and how did this town come into being? Napa/Sonoma Wine Review in Shirley has been introducing and Clear Lake. He chose this the spring of 1981, I logged barely The region took an aristocratic air when Charles Crocker guests to affordable Sonoma northernmost tip of Sonoma Continued from a dozen wineries north of Santa delights there on Canyon Road County for a new town along the Rosa. Now there are nearly a made Cloverdale the last northern stop on the Central for eight years. Julie also noted old trail between Lake County page 1 hundred. The goal that day, that the room opened in 1987, but and the Pacific coast and between however, was not to visit the new it appears brand new and a San Francisco and Ukiah on the I always had a soft spot in my properties but to see how the Pacific Line, possibly he wanted a hunting lodge nearby masterful blend of wood hues and north-south axis. Visitors saw heart and palate for Souverain original family and co-op winer- colors. Shirley works the bar like many more sheep grazing on the because my old wine guru and ies had evolved in a totally and wanted to return home in style in his own rail car. the very best bartenders must slopes north and south of town mentor Leon Adams took me different market. Unlike those have done in Virginia City when than they saw grapevines. And there early in our friendship. Lee early days, winebibbers no longer the silver strike hit back in the the region took an aristocratic air Stewart launched the winery by have to be coaxed to drink late nineteenth century. Planning when Charles Crocker made harvesting his grapes from an “domestic” wine; now they just to have a couple of sips, my Cloverdale the last northern stop estate on nearby Howell Moun- clamor for both the reserve day got turned around when on the Central Pacific Line, tain. His daughter suggested the bottlings and the new case and Shirley pried out of me in less possibly he wanted a hunting name, deriving it from the French barrel-lots of wine that are than five minutes what I really lodge nearby and wanted to word, sovereign. But I suddenly auctioned off annually. wanted to taste. return home in style in his own awoke from my reverie once I When I mentioned the visit private rail car. Rail connections looked closely at the sign at the Century-old Zinfandel vines in more than 40 years ago, she to Larkspur and a ferry to down- entrance. A titan of the movie Alexander Valley poured the 2006 Dry Creek Valley town San Francisco will return to world bought the property in As we drove through the wavy Zin, the result of the mother Cloverdale within a few years. 2006 and after a short period hills of Alexander Valley, I clone. I lifted a toast to John Sr. Lest you wonder if Cloverdale under the name of Rosso & remembered the first time I When she heard Washington as is too sleepy, that question was Bianco, it is being revived and ventured up there, in about 1976 my home state, she poured a answered on a very hot day in expanded to become the flagship while living in San Francisco. A Merlot from the Bench Vineyards late May this year. I was in town location for the Francis Ford columnist for the Bay Guardian in 2006, darker than most Wash- to consult with the managers of Coppola Winery, complete with surprised his readers back then by ington prize merlots, with several the Cloverdale Reveille, Val and many other ways to amuse you in insisting that the best zinfandel spices and black cherries at their Neena Hanchett. Almost exactly style. released that year was not from ripest. The 2005 Sangiovese was 28 years earlier, Val was the Nearly 35 years ago Coppola the hills east of Sacramento. No, also tasty, lots of plums and all partner in a new wine tabloid bought the heart of the historic he taunted us; it came from the those berries that also highlight called the Napa-Sonoma Review. Gustav Niebaum property, and Alexander Valley. In May, as we the zinfandels, but it also had a Little did we know that it would his 1880 winery that would passed by this spring, familiar background aftertaste of cloves. be an early journal of the coming- become known as Inglenook, in names from three decades ago — That made me think Thanksgiv- out party for California wine, but Rutherford in the Napa Valley. Jordan, Robert Young, Alexander ing, but this wine is only for those specifically for Sonoma County. Several of Coppola’s high-end red Valley Vineyards and Field Stone, of you who dive first for the There are pubs and a brewery for wines are still made there on the I remembered how I I loved the drumstick and the dark meat. amusement, but those who get up Rubicon Estate. But this new topography of the area, much as But she saved the coup de grace early to tour the county will Sonoma winery will be aimed at the Italian families did who came for last, something I never appreciate how quiet and peace- the people seeking both leisure here in the early years of the 20th suspected because 35 years ago ful the town is in the evening. and beauty of foliage and vines, Century. The hills are feminine in Near Trentadue, and its lovely the varietal on the label was still a Then the last day in town I the ones who come out ahead in form and dressed in fall colors, Mary Stuart in her “32” wines, is a place that is the question mark for the Pedroncel- stepped out of the office into the the new U.S. economy of the they will be splendid. product of a second generation of lis. What a lovely surprise it was blinding sun and an explosion of coming teen years. Greg and I ate We turned up the winding lane front yard at Vintage Towers vinifera-grape growers whose to drink the 2007 Estate Russian sound and color out in the old lunch here in the ’70s along with to the winery launched by the families have been farming in the River Valley Pinot Noir. Having main drag, which was cordoned other members of his family, but Demostene family in 1973 and area for three generation of local experienced and wrote about off for entertainment on Heri- we could not do so that day which I had not visited for 33 • farmers. We’re no longer young Oregon pinots back when they tage/Spring Festival weekend. because the restaurant is being years. The patriarch, Leo Demos- pups; we are of Medicare and exploded in the ’80s, there is a The community organizers were extensively remodeled. For the tene, and his wife, Rose, bought Vines at Sausal Vineyards Geritol age. But John and Jim standard by which the American inspired creatively and they moment, a temporary tasting the property in 1956 and Pedroncelli can tell you in version of Burgundian wine booked one of the hottest bands room is housed in a former ripped out most of the 15 minutes the history of should taste. But in this case, I put and ensemble entertainment passageway while the new tasting old fruit orchards in favor California wine — the crop that standard aside. This is a groups in the country, Portland’s complex is built in the remodel of of wine grapes, which he that became an industry, slightly denser brand of pinot, March Fourth Marching Band. It Davis’s East Wing. Will Coppola eventually sold to bulk quite awhile after they much more like the legendary is difficult to describe for you the prove to be the Godfather, in the wineries for more than a took over the Dry Creek Mirassou California pinots that three rings of humor, daredevil best sense, that provides Sonoma decade while he planned Valley vineyard on a the breakthrough generation — stunts and synchronized march- County more visibility? Or will it his own winery. The hillside west of the Maya- aka baby-boomers, cut their teeth ing music — blues and jazz just be a baby-boomers road try- family’s roots were camas mountains from on in the ’60s and ’70s. Not only standards, that comes with this out of Fame? Everyone is waiting already deep. Leo’s their father, John Pedron- were there in the taste my favorite circus. The brass section, the to see and you get almost the father, Manuele Demos- celli Sr. John the elder raspberries from Puget Sound but guitars, the drums, the saxo- same number of opinions, mostly tene, first farmed in the bragged to me and Leon cherries, more berries of every phones, they lay down a sheet of along the line of: “don’t ever valley around 1900. 30-some years ago that he stripe, and a similar hint of cloves music while stilt walkers prance underestimate Coppola.” Indeed, Leo’s maternal grand- had done two things right back there someplace. So, this is out to the center of the crowd and also remember that his father, Abele Ferrari, in his life, besides his the wine I suggest for you to drawn around and they perform Robert Duvall character in moved to Healdsburg in family, and he was right. serve by the twos and threes with in choreography with the cos- Apocalypse Now loves the smell 1905 to work for the He had the vision to buy that gargantuan Thanksgiving tumed dancing girls and move of napalm in the morning. neighbor Italian Swiss 90 acres on several slopes dinner. And for those of your flawlessly to the beat of the band. Although relatively inexpen- Colony (Asti) but soon back in 1927, two years family with prejudices for whites Why Cloverdale? Because it is a sive at less than $20, the 2006 began a manufacturing before the Stock Market only with turkey, serve them a real town, like many in Sonoma Diamond Label Claret is an career, earning seven Crash of 1929, which was lovely Washington or Alsatian County that withstood the impressive wine from Sonoma patents for the wine also the year that Leon Gewurztraminer. And ask them temptation to be part of a theme vineyards. The 2006 version is full pumps, crushers and Adams invented the term later to pronounce it. or attempt to be something it is of deep, dark berries and includes presses in the days before wine writer in America Jim, the younger Pedroncelli not. It was long a farming town all the five noble varietals that the Prohibition. He bought with his columns in the brother, told us a long time ago and now is becoming a town British demanded from the the nearby Soda Rock Winery in which I had missed so much for San Francisco Call about the that he was literally born in his amongst vineyards and wineries. Bordeaux city exporters a couple 1925 and struggled through these last three decades. Driving Prohibition raids that he viewed father’s winery office and he This is not Sausalito or Bodega of centuries ago; this 2006 version Prohibition times until he rebuilt over the folds and hills of Alex- from the stern of Bay police ships. started marketing the family’s Bay. Each night as I walked is more than 80 percent Cabernet it completely after 1933. Leo and ander Valley, which resemble the His second wise move was to grapes and wines since 1957, so around town and noted the colors Sauvignon, with a touch more Rose took over Soda Rock in 1943. soft, enchanting paintings of retain and protect the “mother he has seen the fancy dancers of in the beautiful sunsets, I felt like Petite Verdot than Merlot. Will it Unfortunately Leo died almost Georgia O’Keefe after she moved clone” of Zinfandel vines that are the industry come and go but his I was home away from home age? Certainly not as long as the exactly 30 years later, just as his to Taos, we passed a beautiful now a century or more old. I family winery still stays a venera- when I checked back in to the current versions of the wines from family was creating an estate that azure-blue pond. remembered the research that I ble favorite, most recently of the Vintage Towers. the progenitor French vineyards implemented his vision. Zinfandel vines so gnarly that did in Frank Schoonmaker and grandchildren of their original The Stuarts have quite a — that is Graves, after all, a His four children took on the they resemble tree trunks soon Alexis Bespaloff’s Encyclopedia of patrons. The upshot of our visit following. During the week that I terroir of gravelly soil where added responsibilities after his came into our view at the top of a Wine, 1964, with revisions until there was that I bought all those stayed there, the couple who vines must struggle and when death: Ed, Peachie, Cindy and gentle slope. These are vines that Frank’s death in our bicentennial wines from Shirley and threw in a booked a room on the opening they do, they become Haut Brion, Dave Demostene, who had were planted in the 1870s, the year. Those with a historical bent lovely 2006 Zinfandel from the day had returned, with their if they are very good and very learned to make wine at Soda early 1900s and just before may be amazed to learn that 45 Pedroni-Bushnell vineyard, on the grandson, for the fifth year. strong. Rock. My guide for the day had nationwide Prohibition, the event years ago, Sonoma winegrowers eastern rim of hills of the Dry Guests enjoy a marvelous parlor Alas, I finally realized that my the good grace to marry Cindy that signaled the end of the focused on varietals such as Creek Valley. John Pedroncelli Sr. that is full of sofas and easy chairs 25 years away from living in several years ago and she was a winemaking for many of the early Carignane, Petite Sirah (not bought that vineyard back at the and a DVD player for guests’ use. Sonoma County and writing most gracious educational host as families in California. Those vines Syrah) and Alicante Bouschet, end of World War II, and sold it Upstairs, at the center of a wheel about wine there were a time of we walked around the property. and their 90-year-old sisters, dry- 10,000 acres worth, versus way to his son-in-law, thus the names of tower rooms, is another riotous explosion of wineries, and We walked past the original farmed, often yield less than a ton less than 400 acres of today’s on the vineyard. Tell Shirley hi for reading nook that was inviting times had rapidly changed. Back building that is still standing and per acre and they are so fragile stars, Cabernet Sauvignon and me. every evening. If you want to see in the days when we launched the then rode out to the mother lode, that workers treat them gingerly Chardonnay. leaves turn in color and taste and they are groomed like rare Schoonmaker foresaw eventual Why Cloverdale wines that are ready for market, treasures. Because they are. brilliance in Sonoma back then, I learned “why Cloverdale” the this is your destination this fall I cannot recommend enough however, noting both the soil of next morning while strolling and winter. the bottling of old-vine zinfandels the terroir in vineyards all over through the town, which is ••• from the property; I am especially the coastal county, growing in a bisected by old Highway 101. fond of the 90-year-old selections. surprisingly large number of very First of all, I smelled the jasmine, Ask for their Private Reserve, diverse microclimates. If you’ve a memory that drew me back which is aged nearly a year and a ever lived there in deep summer, over the years. Sonoma and half in French Limousin barrels, while Stockton is frying, most northern California jasmine is which helps explode the berries Sonoma locations are near or over delightful. After the new route onto your palate, distracting you 100 degrees, but then a cool bypassed the town several years to dream of pairing this wine with westerly wind blows in from the ago, business owners eventually Italian pastas whipped up by ocean in the mid-afternoon, decided to install bollards and your girlfriend’s grandma. The leading to large, 40-degree planters and reroute traffic to wine is +/- $22; buy lots of it and temperature differentials over- slow folks down considerably as wait ten years if you like. Mean- night, the kind of climate that they drove through. It worked. while, until it ripens like a cherry makes noble wine varieties very Now living back in my home or boysenberry you can buy the happy. town in the Northwest, I miss the Sausal Cellar Cats Red for half the Which brings us to this year lovely range of Mexican food that price. It’s a little lighter, non- and the tasting room. The room of I tasted in my 12 years in Califor- vintage blend of several zinfandel old is long gone, replaced by a nia. The La Hacienda restaurant lots and honors Sophie and beautiful tasting area, with long across the street from the Clover- Gypsie, the rescue cats who I wooden counters that would dale Reveille newspaper reward- Richard Nicholls, DDS imagine actually run the place Richard Nicholls, DDS Noel V. Bourasaw is a history-book make even Wild Bill Hickock ed us all with a meal to remember when the lights are turned off at want to put away his guns and when Fred and Keeli Gernandt and website editor who now lives in night, sort of like an old Archie cards and quaff a Zinfandel. flew in from Bandon, Oregon, in Sedro-Woolley, Washington and and Mehitabel cartoon. publishes http:// Crown & Bridge Where we used to taste from their own plane, to join us. www.skagitriverjournal.com. Email: pipettes and any glass was handy, For a historian or traveler [email protected]. He Root Canal And then there was Shirley while John Sr. and Jr. grinned, interested in such, the first draws plans to share more wine news and Greg saved a sentimental now you taste in a room that a are the center for the Pomo Indian welcomes comments and tips, as well Dentures • Bleaching favorite for last, still knowing fancy-dancy San Francisco lawyer tribe and especially the story as criticism. after nearly 25 years how he can would feel comfortable in. And behind Ishi, the last of the Yahi ••• Emergency Appointments Vintage Towers: http:// tickle my funny bone. We both just as the custom was 35 years tribe to survive, born near here in learned about wine in the days of vintagetowers.com/ 302 N. Main St., ago, the Pedroncelli tasting room 1860s and died in the Bay Area in Cloverdale, CA 95425. (888) 886-9377 894-3986 the early ’70s when some wineries is without charge. But I dare 1916, five years after wandering Sausal Vineyard & Winery: http:// in California were still serving anyone with a sense of country into a slaughterhouse in Oroville www.sausalwinery.com/ tastes of their wines in Dixie cups aesthetics to get out of there and discovering he was the last Francis Ford Coppola Winery: http:/ Computer Aided Design for Restoration Work over the counter of a hose and without buying something, if man standing from his clan. Two /www.franciscoppolawinery.com/ Pedroncelli Winery: http:// New Patients Welcome barrel room, often served by the Shirley Buchignani is calling the years before Ishi’s birth, James A. owner and children thereof. Some www.pedroncelli.com/ shots behind the counter, wearing Kleiser rode down the Russian ••• 114 N. Main Street wines turned out to be spectacu- her signature cowboy hat. River while scouting a road Our motto: dedicated to the concept of committing lar. And all for free. random acts of historical kindness. As Julie Pedroncelli noted, between the coast, the geysers We welcome additions, correction and criticism.