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The Science of Wine: Washington State University Scientists and the Development of the Washington Wine Industry, 1937-1992

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The Science of Wine: Washington State University Scientists and the Development of the Washington Wine Industry, 1937-1992 THE SCIENCE OF WINE: WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY SCIENTISTS AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE WASHINGTON WINE INDUSTRY, 1937-1992 By Cynthia Stewart Kaag A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY Department of History December 2008 To the Faculty of Washington State University: The members of the Committee appointed to examine the dissertation of CYNTHIA STEWART KAAG find it satisfactory and recommend that it be accepted. _____________________________________ (Chair) _____________________________________ _____________________________________ ii TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS iv ABSTRACT v ABBREVIATIONS vi GLOSSARY vii LIST OF FIGURES x DEDICATION xi INTRODUCTION 12 CHAPTER 1: GRAPES AND WINES IN WASHINGTON FROM 1937 TO 1959 27 CHAPTER 2: A GROWING INDUSTRY: THE 1960S 41 CHAPTER 3: CORRESPONDENCE: A CAREER IN A YEAR 74 CHAPTER 4: GRANTSMANSHIP IN THE 1970S 100 CHAPTER 5: FROM PROJECT TO PUBLICATION 150 CHAPTER 6: MATURING WINES AND WINES: THE 1980S 164 CHAPTER 7: COMING OF AGE: THE EARLY1990S AND AFTER 182 BIBLIOGRAPHY 192 APPENDICES 201 Appendix A: WSU Theses Related to Wine, 1948-1992 Appendix B: WSU Wine Publications Appendix C: Biographical Sketches Appendix D: Grape Varieties Recommended for Washington State iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS For their support and encouragement I am deeply indebted to the members of my committee, Drs. Orlan Svingen, Carolyn Ross, and most especially my advisor Jerry Gough. I was especially privileged to have the opportunity to take classes and seminars with Dr. Gough, during which he helped me toward an understanding of the role and significance of science and technology in our history and culture. I also benefited very much from classes with Drs. Svingen, Richard Hume, David Coon (a member of my committee until his retirement), and Robert McCoy. Beatrice Nagel, wife of the late Dr. Charles Nagel, supported my interviews with her husband and has answered specific questions not covered in the archival resources. My work would not have been possible without the work of many members of the staff of the Manuscripts, Archives, and Special Collections unit of the Washington State University Libraries. These dedicated professionals collect, organize, analyze, catalog, preserve, and make available uncounted treasures of knowledge and history. Special thanks go to Pat Mueller for the extra help she gave. iv THE SCIENCE OF WINE: WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY SCIENTISTS AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE WASHINGTON WINE INDUSTRY, 1937-1992 Abstract By By Cynthia Stewart Kaag, Ph.D. Washington State University December 2008 Chair: Jerry Gough WSU scientists and researchers were the main force behind creating the knowledge base necessary for the Washington grape and wine industry to grow from a few hundred acres of vines, producing undistinguished grapes for undistinguished wines, to a major state industry. Horticulturists, plant pathologists, entomologists, food microbiologists, enologists, climatologists, soil scientists, agricultural engineers—they came from many disciplines across the University—worked to solve the problems of cold hardiness and efficient vineyard management, trellising and mechanical harvesting, certification of virus-free stock and testing of hundreds of grape varieties, balance of sugars and acidity in wines, and consumer preferences. Their research results were shared with growers, processors, and winemakers in several ways: they corresponded with individual viticulturists and enologists, they spoke at local luncheons, state conventions, and national meetings, and they published their results in scholarly journals, popular magazines, newspapers, conference proceedings, and through the University’s outreach and Extension programs. This intersection between basic research and practical application was the crux of the University’s obligations to the citizens of the state, and testament to the value WSU added to their lives. v Abbreviations and Acronyms 2,4-D 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (herbicide) ARS Agricultural Research Service (U.S.) AVA American Viticultural Area AWG American Wine Growers (important early winery) DCED Department of Commerce and Economic Development (Washington) DDT DIchloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane (pesticide) EDA Economic Development Administration GDC Geneva double curtain (trellis system) IAREC Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center (1965 on) IES Irrigation Experiment Station (1919-1965) MASC Manuscripts, Archives and Special Collections, WSU Libraries OSU Oregon State University USDA United States Department of Agriculture WSC Washington State College (1905-1969) WSDA Washington State Department of Agriculture WSGS Washington State Grape Society WSHA Washington State Horticultural Association WSU Washington State University (1969 on) WURDD Western Utilization Research and Development Division WWGGC Washington Wine and Grape Growers Council WWC Washington Wine Council vi GLOSSARY 2,4-D (2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid) - a common systemic herbicide developed to control broadleaf weeds and increase crop yields abscission - shedding of plant parts, such as leaves or berries. The process is regulated by the plant hormone abscisic acid. acaricides – pesticides which kill mites acidity – term for the fresh or tart taste produced by the natural acids in wine. Acidity can affect color and growth of yeast and bacteria. amelioration –improvement of wine; sometimes called Chaptalization or enrichment. It may involve the addition of extra sugar, acidification, or deacidification. appellation - term for an officially designated viticultural region. Associated Vintners – major Washington winery, founded by a group of friends in 1962; in 1983 the name was changed to Columbia Winery. black leaf - condition caused by a potassium deficiency that causes the leaves on a vine to turn black as chlorophyll is lost. Prevents vine from transmitting sugar to the grape effectively. black vine weevils (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) - vineyard pests the grubs of which fed on grapevine roots for nearly a year before emerging as adult beetles. Botrytis cinera – a mold that desiccates grapes, thus concentrating their sugars and resulting in a very sweet wine. Brix – measurement of total dissolved compounds in grape juice; one degree Brix equates to about 18 g/l sugar. certified stock - stock grown from vines that had been checked and declared free of all known viruses. Chateau Ste. Michelle - the oldest winery in Washington state, having evolved from American Wine Growers (founded 1954), which had been formed by the merger of Pommerelle Wine Company and the National Wine Company (founded 1934, after Prohibition ended.) clone – a population of vines derived from a single “mother vine.” These may differ in their properties, and clonal selection is the primary means of improving grape varieties. cold hardiness - ability of the vine to survive low temperatures; affect by many factors other than cold, such as maturity of the vine and cultural practices during the preceding season. crop load - the amount of fruit the vine is allowed to produce, controlled by cultural management. crown gall – disease caused by the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens; weakens vines by plugging up the tissues that carry water and nutrients cultural practices - activities within the control of the grape grower, such as setting out the vines; trellising, training, and pruning; controlling timing and amount of water applied; spraying and fertilizing; and hardening off the vines before winter. DDT (Dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane) - pesticide used to control mosquitoes and other insects. vii dying arm disease – dieback of shoots and cordons caused by the ascomycete (fungus) Eutypa lata. filtering – removal of suspended particulates, such as yeast cells, resulting from the fermentation process. It can be important for the future clarity and stability of a wine. Geneva double curtain – training system with vine canopy divided in two curtains trained to grow downward from high cordons. gibberellins – natural plant hormones which regulate growth. grape mealybugs – any of three species of grape mealybugs (Pseudococcus), all of which damage grapes by contaminating clusters with cottony egg sacs, larvae, adults, and honeydew. Often the honeydew is covered with a black sooty mold. Mealybugs can transmit grape viruses. grape schools/seminars - one or two day meetings where growers came together with scientists to talk about grape problems and practices. heat treatment - one of the ways viruses are eliminated from a specific clone of a variety; the process has an incidental effect of increasing growth vigor. Plants are grown at high temperatures and then propagated from shoot tips, which must in turn be tested to ensure they are virus free. heat units – measurement of climate conditions predictive of suitability for plants. It is calculated as the difference between the average of the daily maximum and minimum temperatures, and a critical developmental "threshold" temperature, which varies between species. indexing - the process of checking each variety prior to certification and dissemination to make sure it is disease free. integrated pest management (IPM) – use of both organic and (limited) chemical means to control insects on plants. kalte ende- German for “cold ends” or the leftovers from several bottles of wine mixed together, changed over time to “kalte ente,” meaning “cold duck.” Kniffin trellis – training system with two levels of canes
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