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A Greek Retreat: the Poetic Peloponnese

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A Greek Retreat: the Poetic Peloponnese A Greek Retreat: The Poetic Peloponnese Santorini, Rhodes and Crete are famous sea on the other. Breathing in the clean, for being glorious beach destinations, citrus scented air and looking across the while the beautiful secluded coasts of breathtaking landscape, I think about the mainland Greece are often foolishly mythical and historical background of this overlooked. Globe Editor Chloe Marshall picturesque peninsula. explores these hidden treasures on a unique retreat at Artisa, nestled in the The Peloponnese is the mythical heart of mountainous Peloponnese region of Greece, with many towns and former city southern Greece. states named after the Greek gods and goddesses, such as the nearby Sparta. Admittedly I hadn't visited mainland There's a cast of ancient characters Greece since the nineties when I lived for including Agamemnon as he perilously a year in Thessaloniki, the next biggest returned from the Trojan War to Mycenae, city after Athens. Reflecting on my time and Nestor's Palace at Pylos, where there, I was expecting to be overwhelmed Odysseus’s son set off in search of his with heat, dust, crowds and chaos upon father. Thanks to being the birthplace of returning to Greece. So I was pleasantly Apollo's healer son Asclepeios, Epidauros surprised to be presented a with modern, has the most celebrated healing centre of clean and well organised public transport the Classical world; people travelled from system that could easily put the British far and wide to be cured at the sanctuary National Rail to shame. Somewhat and mineral springs. In the 4th Century amusingly, the train system seems to be BC, the prosperity brought by the set up with British travellers in mind; each Asklepieion funded the making of a large destination is announced in Greek and theatre with astounding acoustics, which is then in English, along with a quaint still used for performances to this day. reminder to: “mind the gap”. I get off the train at Corinth, a once mighty Landing at Athens and promptly heading city state of ancient Greece, and as I jump west on the train to Kiato, I follow the in a taxi for the short last leg of my journey that defeated Nero across the journey, the winding roads become Corinth canal, taking in the towering narrower and smaller, yet my sense of mountains on one side and the deep blue relaxation and isolation only gets bigger. 16 In between the mountains there's deep in Egypt and Greece, and for some years gorges, lush forests, green valleys and she had wanted to set up a retreat centre flowery meadows and as I scan across the for professionals. Along with her work as coastline I joyfully note that there's not one an organisational psychologist in the single hotel chain in sight. Although there's Netherlands, she co-runs a consultancy some small guest houses dotted in company and an international network to between the residential housing and support professional .women. Celeste could traditional tavernas, the whole place feels see that their combined skills and totally unspoilt and nature abounds – in expertise could come together short, this is the perfect place for a retreat. harmoniously in the creation of Artisa, and with that they set up programmes for not The idea behind Artisa came in part from only academics and scientists, but also for the co-founder Louise Thoonen (pictured artists and writers, and anyone in need of below right) who, at the time she was a an escape or a sabbatical in order to focus PhD student, sought to find the most on a personal, educational or vocational suitable surroundings in which to write up project. her PhD research. Louise found herself returning to Greece and reaping the Celeste manages Artisa with the help of rewards of a quiet, peaceful yet visiting tutors to run some of the weekly inspirational environment. In her position programmes, such as the leadership as a coach to other PhD candidates, she courses, art classes and the academic wanted to pass on her experience and set writing weeks. She starts each day of the up a dedicated space for students and retreat in the gardens or on the beach, academics to work in distraction-free with yoga and meditation to awaken the serenity. body and mind. Together with the natural environment, delicious food, and the Fellow co-founder Celeste Neelen company of the other attendees, (pictured below centre) had already spent participants are set up for a focussed day much of her life helping, guiding and ahead that's hopefully filled with nurturing people through her silent retreats progression and reflection. 17 I first visited Artisa on an academic writing As I get out of the taxi with last year's week, as after spending several years studies well and truly behind me, some working as a freelance journalist, my fond memories of the glittering sea comfort level was very squarely set in contrasted with the green forest, gardens writing short articles. While I'd managed and orchards come flooding back, as I the usual assignments for my Masters step foot once again on that gorgeous course reasonably well, the thought of beach. But this time, I'm not here to work compiling a 10,000 – 20,000 word project on anything, or to even speak to anyone was daunting to say the least. Trying to for that matter, and any interaction will be arrange meetings with my supervisor was kept to a minimum. I'm here to spend a nigh on impossible, and with such limited week in silence on a silent retreat, and to help from the university I knew that I'd be taken on a journey of self discovery, made the right decision when I flew off to emotional exploration and mindfulness. Greece with nothing but a laptop, a few holiday essentials and a big notebook that Before we go quiet, together we discuss would soon be filled with useful feedback our reasons for seeking silence and there and tips. are some touching, intriguing and truly moving stories. From dealing with the loss A few months (and a lot of hard work) later, of a loved one to facing some pivotal life I proudly graduated with a Distinction, choices, or for some, simply seeking a along with a big thumbs up to Louise and sense of inner calm, our group already Celeste for all of their support and seems to have a few unifying themes that encouragement throughout that tough link us all together despite our differences dissertation time. in age, background and nationality. 18 Throughout the week, we are taken on a Through exploring different meditative and wonderful journey despite staying in the physical activities, we are taken on an same place, and through being quiet I find emotional roller-coaster of highs and lows myself developing a deeper sense of self that bring back the memories that triggered awareness. Free from the usual demands these feelings in the first place, then we of the daily grind and the pressure to face up to them and see how it might be communicate, I become more observant of possible to let them go. my surroundings and I begin to appreciate them on a whole new level, recognising While I'm pretty sure that I haven't found how much I have to be grateful for. total enlightenment yet, and that I'd probably need to spend the rest of my Without being prompted, I stop to question days living in a cave to even get close, I myself in ways that I wouldn't normally definitely feel an inner peace that is only dare to, including the biggies such as reachable through the absence of asking what I really want out of life, and communication. And by the end of the whether my current set up is really making week, I'm so elated that I don't want to me happy. I begin to identify some speak – even when I am finally invited to changes that I'd like to make, and I realise do so! My smiling face (above left) is the that familiarity isn't an excuse for best way I can find to express myself. For complacency. Not all of my fresh questions the first time ever, the words don't naturally are easy to approach, but I definitely find come to me and even now, I'm struggling some clarity and honesty in myself that will to find the vocabulary to describe help to eventually find the answers. something so profound. 19 As its on the mainland, getting to Artisa per week including the course, tuition, from the UK and most of the rest of Europe coaching, private studio accommodation is cheap and easy. An advance booking with a bathroom and kitchenette, full board could set you back at around £150 including all meals, drinks and snacks, and for Ryanair, or for slightly more comfort, go full use of the on site facilities including the for BA, Aegean or Easyjet at around £250 private gardens and beaches. Depending for a London to Athens return flight. From on the programme, some discounts might there, you can take the train from Athens available upon application - please see the airport directly to Korinthos for a budget website for further information. friendly 12 Euros. Korinthos is around 50 miles from Athens,which is around a one Artisa retreats run every year from early hour drive, or an hour and a half on the April through to late June and from mid train, and then it's just a short drive or taxi September to mid November, and a full ride on to the coast.
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