The Inside: Retail’s Top WomenPg. 12 TOMMY’S DONE DEAL/3 BUSH RULES ON CHINA/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • May 11, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Jacket Required NEW YORK — After fall’s broody palette, Giorgio Armani lightened up Collezioni’s line for resort. The designer played up jackets in every which way, with an emphasis on shorter shapes and clean lines. Here, for example, Armani Collezioni’s cotton and elastin jacket and cotton and elastin denim pants. For more, see page 8.

Beginning a New Era: Federated Posts Loss On May Merger Costs By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Federated Department Stores Inc.’s bottom line for the first quarter of its “transition year” was heavily weighed down by the costs of merging with May Department Stores. The retailer on Wednesday posted a $52 million first-quarter loss, but managed to beat its own guidance and said its integration of The May Department Stores Co. remains “solidly on track” as sales soared. Meanwhile, the books are out for both Lord & Taylor and the Bridal Group businesses. Federated is said to be seeking $1.2 billion for Lord & Taylor. See Federated’s, Page 13 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Fall’s frilled looks feature ruffl ed cuffs and collars on fi tted blazers and 6 denim that goes dark in shades of black, gray and burgundy. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Federated Department Stores’ bottom line in the fi rst quarter of its “tran- 1 sition year” was weighed down by costs from merging with May Co. TAG, YOU’RE IT! Fred Gehring became ceo of Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. and vowed to rebuild What Price Tags Say to Women 3 the U.S. wholesale business and continue on a fast track abroad. The Bush administration refrained again from declaring China a currency They say that you can’t judge a book by its Monitor, nearly one in five female respondents 3 manipulator, drawing sharp criticism from lawmakers and lobbyists. cover, but many women do believe that a price tag cites mass merchants as their primary resource for DISH: After making jeans for brands such as Levi’s, Gap and Old Navy, speaks volumes about the garment’s perceived and apparel, nearly equaling those who favor chain 10 Colombia-based Faro Group is doing its own line of premium denim. practical worth. stores for their wardrobe building. “A garment’s cost exercises a significant power “No matter where they shop, women want to be BEAT: After going public in 2005, sports brand Volcom, whose motto is “Youth Against Establishment,” is ready to spread its retail wings. over consumers,” tells Kimberly smart shoppers and that comes 11 Canzani, Director of Marketing down to price,” considers Bastos. for the Manhattan Mall, located “To their credit, retailers have EYE in New York City’s historic really helped train consumers to Talking with actor Gael Garcia Bernal, whose latest fi lm, “The King,” out Herald Square. “It is one of the anticipate when and where there 4 next week, received an early lashing in Variety for its violence and incest. key determinant’s in assessing a will be a sale and now, women Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 garment’s worth and ultimately, are reacting accordingly and price does influence whether the buying.” To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. customer will buy it or not.” They certainly are. If a price tag [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- According to the Cotton speaks volumes about a garment, RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™, the prospect of a bargain beckons VOLUME 191, NO. 101. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- price remains the number-one rather suggestively to many ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, women. In fact, two out of three Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers piece of information important Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and to a garment purchase for an women told Monitor that they C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior overwhelming percentage of purchase the latest styles on sale Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance women. In the fourth quarter at the end of the season, versus Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. of 2005, 79.7% of female at full price at the beginning of 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable “Price definitely conveys a Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS respondents indicated price was the season. CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, of essential interest, far surpassing sense of value. As consumers, “If I see something that I can ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four other factors like fabric content, we want to purchase what we wear and it’s on a good sale, I know weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. laundering instructions and even perceive as special and cost plays it’s going home with me,” tells Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. designer name. into that process.” JoAnne, a forty something mother First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, — Milton Pedraza, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions “Price remains the number-one of two in Central Florida. “I can’t and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To motivator for women, whether Luxury Institute resist the rush of a bargain!” subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would they are buying on sale or at regular “We have customers ask us interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise all the time when a big sale might be coming,” us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. price,” says Melissa Bastos, Manager of Market WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Research for Cotton Incorporated. “Cost plays into Canzani relates. “They definitely plan ahead.” SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, how she feels about a certain piece of apparel and if But the experts insist that there are times when OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED it fits with her lifestyle.” all planning and budgeting gets thrown by the A price tag becomes an oracle of sorts, consulted wayside, often by a quick look in the mirror. “We frequently during the decision making process have customers that come in and find something to answer such shopping that makes them look younger, In Brief queries as: Is it a bargain? Is INFORMATION IMPORTANT thinner and sexier and when it too extravagant? If it’s so TO GARMENT PURCHASE they find it, they are not as apt ● ACTIVE PURCHASES: In a move to strengthen control over to look at the price tag. They global brands, Adidas said Wednesday it has repurchased the inexpensive, will it wear well? 05Q4 How often will I wear it to know that no matter what the distribution rights for the Reebok brand in Russia, Ukraine, get my money’s worth? “Price PRICE 79.7% cost, they’ve found their own Kazakhstan, Belarus, Uzbekistan, Armenia and Azerbaijan from relates to value; women make FABRIC CONTENT 51.3% best value,” Cohen relates. ZAO RBK-Retail, Reebok’s Russian distributor. Adidas Ltd. Moscow will become the exclusive distributor of Reebok prod- so many judgment calls on that MADE IN USA OR IMPORTED 32.0% This “can’t-afford-not-to- LAUNDRY INSTRUCTIONS 48.2% ucts effective Jan. 1. ZAO RBK-Retail will act as the key account one little tag,” observes Lynn buy-it attitude” is playing out for the Adidas Group. Adidas plans to buy out Reebok distribu- DESIGN OR MFRS. NAME 23.8% Cohen, proprietor of the stylish in today’s jean market, as well. tors and joint ventures around the world as part of its integra- Runway, which has locations ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY 21.0% “Women will defy price when tion strategy for the recently acquired group. The acquisitions in Manhattan’s tony Flatiron it comes to premium denim,” are expected to amount to at least 200 million euros, or $256 and Soho districts. “I see many women trading up, Bastos shares, referring to the ever-increasing million in revenue, by 2009. The Herzogenaurach, Germany- as it were, preferring to get one pricier piece over category of jeans that sell for over $70 a pair. “In based group said the repurchase of distributors in Russia and a grouping of lesser-priced items. That customer this area, women were primarily interested in fit China offer the greatest revenue growth opportunities. recognizes what that one really great garment and that was their primary motivator, not price. ” ● WANG GOES SILVER: Vera Wang Group and Waterford Wedg- could mean to her wardrobe and she pro-rates its “There’s no doubt that denim has become a wood USA announced a license agreement that will extend the cost over time.” status symbol and women are spending to get Vera Wang brand into silver. The license will include all ster- “Price definitely conveys a sense of value,” their own perfect fit in jeans,” Pedraza, the luxury ling silver, silver plate, fl atware and gift items. The agreement confirms Milton Pedraza, Chief Executive Officer observer, details. “The right pair complements all expands on existing licenses that Wedgwood had for Vera Wang of the Luxury Institute, an independent and of the other designer pieces in her wardrobe.” dinnerware, stemware, barware and gifts that date from 2002. objective research organization that focuses solely Price can certainly help determine how a Prior to this agreement, the licensing rights for Vera Wang sil- ver and gifts were held by Syratech Corp., which was recently on the top ten percent of America’s wealthy. “As woman feels about an article of clothing, but sold to Lifetime Brands. “Vera Wang’s four-year partnership consumers, we want to purchase what we perceive ultimately, it’s what’s in the buyer’s heart that with Wedgwood has resulted in a strong and successful table- as special and cost plays into that process.” matters. “If you truly love a garment and feel you top business here in the United States. “By adding silver and Pay more for a higher quality or sacrifice a little have to have it, you’ve already answered the right gifts to the Wedgwood license, we will create a seamless cre- bit to save a few dollars? Women are fairly evenly cost measurement question, which is, does it make ative vision for Vera Wang tabletop and a stronger presence in divided on this issue. Fifty-one percent of female me feel special?”, considers Pedraza. “If the answer our retail stores,” said Laura Lee Miller, president, Vera Wang respondents told the Monitor that they would pay a is yes, buy it!” Licensing LLC, a division of Vera Wang Group, in a statement. This story is one in a series of articles based on find- premium for greater quality, while 45.4% said that ● HIGH SCHOOL FASHION: New York’s High School of Fashion they would sacrifice quality for a better price. ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ Industries is prepping to celebrate it’s 80th anniversary with a Today’s tiered retail environments and the tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these reception honoring Mark Mendelson, chief merchandising of- fashion-forward nature of apparel at practically pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it ficer of Jones Apparel Group, who will receive the “Designing every level, from big-box warehouses to luxury relates to the American consumer and her attitudes the Future” Distinguished Mentor Award for consistently do- emporiums, may be credited with allowing women and behavior regarding clothing, nating his time to help the school. The reception will be fol- to indulge their style preferences while keeping appearance, fashion, fiber selection and lowed by a student fashion show. The event, on May 17, will begin with a cocktail hour at 5:30 p.m. It will take place at the a careful eye on their wallets. According to the many other timely, relevant subjects. high school, at 225 West 24th Street in Manhattan. Tickets are $80 each and serve as a donation to the school. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 3 WWD.COM Critics Call for ‘Concrete Action’ CEO Says Tommy to Now ‘Trade Up’ On China’s Fixed Currency Issue By Lisa Lockwood By Kristi Ellis NEW YORK — Fred Gehring, the new chief executive offi cer of Tommy Hilfi ger Corp., said the $1.7 billion company is committed to rebuilding its struggling U.S. wholesale WASHINGTON — The Bush admin- business and continuing fast-track growth overseas. istration Wednesday again declined Gehring, former ceo of Tommy Hilfi ger Europe, took the helm of the now privately to charge China with currency ma- held fi rm Wednesday, when Apax Partners’ funds completed its acquisition of Hilfi ger nipulation as lawmakers called for for $1.6 billion in cash. aggressive action following a mount- Speaking from Dubai, where Hilfi ger opened a store this week, Gehring said his ing trade deficit with the world’s top priority will be to raise the quality of the U.S. product to bring it in line with the most-populous nation and industry brand’s global positioning. job losses. “One overriding principle will be to try and trade up, not overnight, and become a ma- Opponents of China’s fi xed cur- terially higher brand,’’ he said. “It will happen in due course, [a little bit] every season.” rency maintain it artifi cially lowers In the U.S., Gehring said the retail and outlet business is strong and licensing the price of Chinese goods by 15 to 40 is solid, but the wholesale business has struggled. “We’ll approach it with a focus percent and subsidizes exports, put- on quality before quantity, and we’ll take it [the volume] down before we build it ting U.S. companies at a disadvan- up,” he said. tage. They also argue that a lack of In the U.S., said Gehring, “We want to focus, shrink and trade up.” currency fl exibility has been a major Gehring has overseen the European business, which accounts for 35 percent of factor in a trade defi cit with China Hilfi ger’s worldwide business, since its launch in 1997, but he conceded that he needs that hit $202 billion last year. to learn more about the U.S. operation. In a statement attached to a semi- “I’m a foreigner to the business in the U.S.,” said Gehring, who is to arrive in annual report to Congress, Treasury New York Friday and will be based at the company offi ces at 601 West 26th Street. Secretary John Snow said U.S. offi - Hilfi ger’s new corporate headquarters will be in Holland. cials are “extremely dissatisfi ed with Gehring said he has thoughts on how to shore up the U.S. business, but wants to the slow and disappointing pace of THOM LANG/CORBIS PHOTO BY speak to employees before making any decisions. reform of the Chinese exchange rate “Over the last couple of years, everything was top-line focused,’’ he said. “I think regime.’’ But the report, which assesses exchange-rate policies and determines in a private situation, we don’t have to have an obsession with the top line anymore whether they create unfair trading practices, didn’t designate China a country and can focus on quality, not quantity.” that “manipulates” its currency to promote exports, which could ultimately result For several years, Hilfi ger has seen volume and profi ts erode in the U.S., as de- in sanctions within the World Trade Organization. partment stores cut back on the women’s and men’s collections. In the most recent During a news conference, Snow emphasized China’s progress and President Hu quarter ended Dec. 31, income fell to $15.5 million from $20.2 million a year ago. Jintao’s recent commitments to trade reform. China raised the value of its currency Revenue in the quarter declined 7.9 percent to $396.6 million from $430.7 million. by 2.1 percent in July in a move to change the peg of the yuan to a basket of curren- Hilfi ger said results were partly affected by a 36.3 percent drop in U.S. wholesale cies. It raised the value of the yuan another 1 percent this year and the currency volume to $107.5 million from $168.8 million because of reduced department store has appreciated by only 3.2 percent, a change many critics claim is inadequate. orders. International wholesale sales rose 4.1 percent to $80.6 million, from $77.4 “By embracing a comprehensive approach, as we’ve suggested, China has com- million. mitted to putting itself on the right path,’’ Snow said. “That’s good. Now we need On the retail front, revenues gained 12.4 per- to see concrete action on each of these points.” cent to $185.8 million from $165.3 million in the Asked why Treasury is not pressuring China in a more confrontational way, year-ago period, while same-store sales at U.S. which many in Congress have urged, and the timetable for labeling China a “ma- stores increased in the low-single-digit percent- nipulator,” Snow said: “There is no precise answer. It is a qualitative judgment. age range. Licensing revenue gained 8.4 percent We have given the statute our best interpretation and that is infl uenced by these to $20.6 million from $19 million. commitments made within the month by the president of China….So we have to As a public company, Gehring said, Wall take those commitments at face value.” Street paid enormous attention to the com- Snow said China indicated an intent to address global imbalances in state- pany’s positioning in the U.S., although in ments made by President Hu during his meeting with President Bush here last Europe, China, Japan and the Middle East the month, and in its fi ve-year plan, which is called for in the U.S. statute. brand’s positioning “is on track and the oppor- “We are not satisfi ed,” Snow said. “We think China right now can do more and tunity is unparalleled.” Throughout the world, the President is committed to do more….We are going to monitor it closely.” the Hilfi ger brand is “viewed as a premium U.S. business groups, which allege China manipulates its currency to gain un- American lifestyle brand; there’s a strong DNA, fair advantage in trading and investments, and lawmakers were critical of the both in sportswear as well as denim,” he said. Treasury Department’s decision. One reason for a higher-quality product “By failing to designate China as a manipulator in this report, although its overseas is that the company has a separate currency is artifi cially undervalued by as much as 40 percent, the United States European design team. Gehring believes there’s comes off as a paper tiger unwilling to stand up for its domestic industrial sector,” no need to have two distinct collections and said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action “we’ll look at harmonizing the two.” Coalition, said in a statement. “The U.S. government needs to put its foot down The company has 550 full-price stores interna- with China by using access to the U.S. market as leverage to persuade China to Tommy Hilfi ger tionally “and a vast majority do great business,” he stop engaging in predatory trade.” said, adding that he strongly believes there’s big The Bush administration has continued to use diplomacy to convince China to opportunity for full-price retail stores in the U.S. adopt a new exchange rate system that makes more periodic adjustments to its cur- Gehring also sees a bright future for Karl Lagerfeld’s business, which Hilfi ger ac- rency and eventually lets it fl oat freely on world markets like the dollar or the euro. quired in December 2004. He noted that Phillips-Van Heusen, which at one point was “The administration has now made it a habit of walking up to the line and not said to be a part of the Apax/Hilfi ger negotiations, was no longer involved. crossing it, even in the face of overwhelming evidence,” Sen. Charles Schumer Under the terms of the merger agreement, each outstanding company ordinary (D., N.Y) said in a statement. “We hope the Chinese will show greater movement share was converted into the right to receive a total of $16.80 in cash, without inter- than they have in the last few months, but it is looking more and more likely that, est. On Tuesday, the company shareholders voted to approve the merger agreement, given the administration’s failure to act, our legislation may be the only way to get with 55,533,374 votes for the merger agreement, 7,478,955 against the merger and China to play fair in the global marketplace.” 2,050 votes abstaining. Schumer and Sen. Lindsey Graham (R., N.C.) have held off on a bill that would The company’s ordinary shares ceased trading on the New York Stock Exchange impose a 27.5 percent tariff on all Chinese imports to pressure China to make at the market close Wednesday at $16.78 and will be delisted. stronger reforms. The senators have reached an agreement with Republican “We are very excited as we embark on this new chapter in the evolution of our glob- leaders to delay a vote on their bill until the end of September, contingent upon al lifestyle company,” Tommy Hilfi ger, the company’s founder and principal designer, whether China makes further currency reforms. said in a statement. “In Apax Partners, we have an outstanding new partner, and we Sen. Chuck Grassley, (R., Iowa), chairman of the Senate Finance Committee, look forward to working together to take the Tommy Hilfi ger brand to new heights.” said in a statement: “Everyone knows China isn’t allowing market forces to infl u- Michael Phillips, partner, Apax Partners Worldwide LLP, added, “As a private com- ence the value of its currency....The country has made some reforms, but it isn’t pany with a powerful global brand, Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. will have greater fl exibility even letting those reforms work freely. Today’s report from Treasury shows our to grow the business on both the operational and fi nancial levels.” current law isn’t working.”

needs,” said Mark Lee, Gucci’s presi- a route now embraced by Chanel and dent and chief executive offi cer. Dior, which will both show in New York Gucci Cruise Show Headed to Web He added that while it is a cruise or next week. pre-spring collection, it is delivered in “We think we were kind of pioneers in MILAN — Gucci is cruising to the Web. tors, journalists and retailers in Europe the fourth-quarter holiday shopping pe- terms of taking Frida and the collection To reach a broader fashion audi- and Asia. It will be accessible on Gucci. riod of the year, a key time for business. to New York for a proper show. Since ence, the brand’s creative director, Frida com via a password. Close-ups of the Lee said Gucci’s apparel sales rose it was Frida’s first presentation and Giannini, has arranged for the runway clothes and detail shots of the accessories starting with the fourth quarter of last ready-to-wear collection, we wanted to show of its new cruise collection to be will be visible and Giannini will hold a year with the shipment of cruise. “They do something innovative, more than just broadcast live worldwide on the Gucci pretaped, postshow interview to explain grew 16 percent in the fourth quarter of show clothes on the rack,” said Lee. Web site. The show will take place June her design focus for the resort season. 2005 — they were pretty stagnant until This time, though, Giannini is stay- 14 in New York at The Penthouse at Milk “Cruise may be an American inven- then — and almost 24 percent in the fi rst ing in Florence, where she will be add- Studios. tion but it’s really not a U.S. phenom- quarter of this year,” he said. ing the last touches to her fi rst men’s But even the Webcast will be invita- enon anymore. It’s an important collec- Last June, Gucci led the way by show- wear collection. tion-only and restricted to fashion edi- tion worldwide that satisfi es different ing its cruise collection in New York, — Alessandra Ilari 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 WWD.COM

Gael Garcia Bernal WALK THE LINE What goes around comes around: This spring, fashionable girls on both coasts are reviving sassy black-and-white and navy-and-white striped tops. They evoke a nautical fl air, but styles can range from preppy to punk, and the look works best with simple accessories and a monochromatic palette. And girls can earn their stripes at any level, from Michael Kors to H&M and even Gap Kids. So start saluting.

All Shook Up

NEW YORK — Gael Garcia Bernal clearly enjoys a bit of controversy. Tell him that his latest fi lm, “The King,” out next week, received an early lashing in Variety for its unfl inching violence and unpalatable incest and his hazel eyes light up. Richard E. Grant “Really? Oh, that’s great publicity!” the Mexican actor exclaims with a toothy smile. About a Boy Bernal has already made plenty of provocative waves in the fi lm world, from his breakout part in 2000’s “Amores Perros” to roles in “Y Tu Mamá También” NEW YORK — Richard E. Grant has published and Pedro Almodovar’s “Bad Education.” In “The King,” his fi rst English- wickedly funny diaries about the ups and language fi lm, he stars as Elvis, a young man discharged from the American downs of his life as an actor, but he had to tread Navy who comes to Corpus Christi, Tex., looking for his estranged father (William more gently when it came to telling the story Hurt). He arrives to fi nd his dad is a pastor, married with two kids and has little of his childhood in Swaziland. “Wah-Wah,” interest in the bastard child from his past. Elvis responds by seducing his half- his directorial debut, chronicles his mother’s sister, played by Pell James, an act that brings about a dark torrent of violence adulterous affair, his father’s descent into and retribution of Greek tragedy proportions. alcoholism and subsequent marriage to a high- “It’s a fi lm that has a lot of issues I’m very interested in…incest, father spirited American “airline hostess,” who sticks and son, lost empire, the oracle, the kid that comes from the sea to regain his out like a sore thumb among the stuffy colonials lost empire, territory, all of those things,” explains Bernal, 27, his disheveled clinging to the last gasp of the British Empire. shoulder-length hair pulled back in a ponytail. “This kid is from the United “It’s entirely autobiographical,” Grant States, but his father does not recognize him and his mother was a Mexican says by telephone from London. “Everything with no papers in the United States and a prostitute, so that leaves him behind that happened, happened to me. The process in every single aspect of life, in terms of identity.” of writing it was painful and joyful by turns.” When it comes to Elvis’ reprehensible actions, the actor is unwilling to pass The movie, which opens Friday in New judgment. York and Los Angeles, begins with Grant’s “I consider it wrong what he does, defi nitely,” he says, furrowing his brow character, 11-year-old Ralph Compton, in thought. “But at the same time, it is congruent with the type of life he’s inadvertently witnessing his mother en had. He became a kind of killing machine…therefore, for him it’s pretty fl agrante with his father’s best friend. When natural to solve his problems this way. That’s what’s scary about war and the the beautiful, icy Lauren Compton (Miranda Army and the Navy.” Richardson) runs off with her lover, her Perhaps the most frightening part, though, is the serenity and cool with husband Harry Compton (Gabriel Byrne) which Elvis carries out his revenge. It is a calm that is apparent in Bernal, seeks comfort in the bottle. Byrne is by turns charming, brooding and explosive. He bullies too, as well as a playful self-assurance. Ask him his take on the less-desirable his son and even attempts to shoot him during one drunken rage. aspects of fame and he is wittily diplomatic. “I knew my father’s alcoholism, which was so hidden away, was a family secret we “First of all, it’s really nice to be recognized by something you like doing. And had to keep,” Grant says. “He was by day such a charming, good guy. Only when he was then, on the other hand, I’m not paparazzi material; I’m not gossip material,” he overtaken by drink and his unrequited love for my mother did he become a demon.” insists, despite his well-deserved heartthrob status and recent reports that put The second Mrs. Compton, played by Emily Watson, is an eccentric feminist, given him back with ex-girlfriend Natalie Portman. “I’m not aware of them, so it’s one to wearing wildly patterned caftans and colorful turbans. She has no patience with the of those things that don’t really exist. You know they’re quite frivolous and they snooty, hypocritical offi cers’ wives who cling to their traditions and petty biases, and last a bit less than a president of Argentina does during a crisis.” ridicules their gossipy chitchat as sounding like “wah-wah.” Political references make frequent appearances in Bernal’s conversation. “I loved Ruby,” Watson says. “She was really good fun to play. She’s very redemptive, Born in Guadalajara, Mexico, to thespian parents, the actor participated in and liberated. Richard’s father remarried quite suddenly, but his real stepmother was student demonstrations as a teenager. He began acting at 14 and even his Jewish South African. People wouldn’t understand how ostracized she would have been in move to London at 17 to pursue drama was precipitated by a strike at his British-ruled Swaziland. Making her an American made her an outsider.” university in Mexico, where he was studying philosophy. Now living in Mexico Grant’s fi rst screen role came in 1986 when he played a drunk, out-of-work actor living City, he remains committed to helping his country, though not in any high- in a house bereft of heat, in “Withnail & I,” which became a cult classic. He also appeared profi le, publicity-generating way. in Martin Scorcese’s “The Age of Innocence.” “I don’t do charities. The thing is, when you’re from the United States, it’s But Grant actually has been writing longer than he’s been acting. He said he kept a called ‘charity,’ but when you’re from a poor country, it’s called ‘civil duty,’” he diary as a boy and has published a journal about the making of the fi lm, called “The Wah- remarks wryly. Wah Diaries” (MacMillan). The book traces the process of bringing the fi lm to fruition, His latest endeavor in his homeland has been directing and starring from October 1999, when Grant began writing the script, to 2005, when he landed a U.K. in “The Defi cit,” a fi lm he is doing as part of the production company he distributor. The in-between was marked by endless frustrations. founded with fellow countryman Diego Luna. Even this project elicits a Despite all of the hurdles, the fi lm had one major positive result: Grant said he’s had a typically mischievous explanation. reconciliation with the mother who abandoned him 35 years ago. “The fi lm provoked her to “It’s great because you don’t have to have any translation,” says Bernal of write to me after years of estrangement and tell me about what it was like to be a young, bored the movie’s title. “Some people will ask me, ‘What is defi cit?’ But in America, colonial wife,” he says. “Being attractive was the one weapon she had. She’s 74 now. I thought, nobody will ask me that.” ‘How could this person who has gray hair have been the Lauren Bacall of Swaziland?’” — Vanessa Lawrence — Sharon Edelson BERNAL PHOTO BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN; STRIPES PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA AND STEVE EICHNER DONATO STRIPES PHOTOS BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN; BERNAL PHOTO BY Cotton is always soft – except when defending our trademark.

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AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ®Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2006. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006

Cotton denim jacket ▲ Gasp’s cotton and pants from Plan velvet blazer; B. Femme Metale ring; Yvette Mandell’s Doc Marten boots. cotton thermal top, and IT Jeans’ cotton denim jeans. Westside Accessories belt; Oscar & Nancy necklaces; Guess boots.

213 Industry’s cotton T-shirt and leather vest and LEI’s cotton denim jeans. Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier necklace.

Go for Baroque LOS ANGELES — Rock out in fall’s frilled looks. Ruffl es on cuffs and collars add an edge to fi tted blazers, while denim goes dark in shades of black, gray and burgundy.

▲ To The Max’s leather jacket and polyester lace top; Passport’s cotton and lace ruffl ed blouse, and Blue Cult Elite’s cotton denim jeans. Guess necklaces. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Guess’s cotton top; Zinc’s cotton denim vest, and Levis Capital E’s cotton denim jeans. Westside Accessories belt; Femme Metale necklace; Oscar & Nancy necklace; Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier cuff. ION ASSISTANT: KRISTINA BRIGLIO; STYLED BY MELISSA KRISTINA BRIGLIO; STYLED MAGSAYSAY BY ION ASSISTANT: PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE; MODEL: TAMARYN/LA MODELS; HAIR BY GEORGINA PENATE/CELESTINE; MAKEUP BY SONIA LEE/ARTISTS MANAGEMENT; FASH MANAGEMENT; SONIA LEE/ARTISTS MAKEUP BY GEORGINA PENATE/CELESTINE; MODELS; HAIR BY MODEL: TAMARYN/LA TYLER BOYE; PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 WWD.COM

Armani Collezioni’s Armani silk shantung dress. Collezioni’s cotton and nylon jacket, viscose and elastin fl oral jersey tank and cotton The and silk pants. Lighter Side NEW YORK — Playful, fun looks are in full swing for Armani Collezioni’s resort. Giorgio Armani linen, viscose, opted for a soft, feminine polyester and elastin jacket; lineup this season, viscose, creating easy silhouettes cotton, for dresses, skirts and elastin and polyester pants in neutral colors. jersey tank, and linen and viscose skirt.

Armani Collezioni’s silk and elastin blouse and acetate and pleated silk skirt. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 9 WWD.COM

BLUE’S QUEUE: Executives at Martha Stewart Living Burberry Makes Shopping Appetizing Omnimedia are lining up MEMO PAD potential replacements for By Rosemary Feitelberg Blueprint editor Rebecca Thuss, who abruptly left the company last month just before the NEW YORK — More often than not, clothes at launch issue hit newsstands. And, logically, one of the fi rst people designer luncheons are much like petits fours they called was that other upper-level lifestyle editor who walked — pretty to look at, but people seldom dig in. off the job in early April: Real Simple’s former director of editorial Things were different Tuesday afternoon when development Elizabeth Mayhew. “I’m talking to a lot of people,” Burberry invited some social types to its 57th Mayhew said. “I’m not sure where I’ll end up.” She added that her Street store here for some salmon and shopping. MSLO talks were not at all limited to Blueprint. In fact, guests appeared so enthusiastic about Freelance editor Amy Goldwasser had a “friendly lunch, not an what was on the racks that the actual seating was interview” with someone from MSLO this week to discuss the delayed to give them more time to look around. Blueprint position. Jason Oliver Nixon of Niche Media has been in Even public relations executive Emilia Fanjul twice about the job in the past two weeks. Friends of James Ireland Pfeifl er found herself in the unlikely role of sales- Baker, executive editor at Real Simple, said they believed he had woman. “I think I’ve sold about three of these gotten a call. And Angela Matusik, the former editor in chief of coats,” she said, tugging on the navy one she Budget Living who is currently working on Web projects for People was wearing with oversized gold buttons. magazine, went in for an interview to talk about MSLO jobs about a “Everyone keeps asking me where I month ago, before Thuss’s departure was made public. got it. I just told them, ‘It’s right over A spokeswoman for the magazine said, “We’re interviewing there.’” Models in Christopher Bailey’s designs many candidates right now, with a wide range of experiences and Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Annie for Burberry. Inset: Rose Marie Bravo. backgrounds.” However, one outside editor countered, “They’re Churchill, Eleanor Ylvisaker, Zani chatting about Burberry designer having trouble getting people in because it’s an editor not editor Gugelmann, Cristina Greeven Christopher Bailey’s career path in chief type situation, and reporting to [editorial director] Margaret Cuomo and Adelina Wong Ettelson to notice it. Roach isn’t all that appealing.” were among the guests who The shoppers were drawn to a “My completely subjective, just-me gut read is that they’re searched the third fl oor for spring $4,435 pearl-colored antique lace looking for someone to put on TV, a fi gurehead more than an editor,” and fall 2006 fi nds. Ylvisaker zoned trench with jersey lining, a $2,130 said another editor familiar with the search. “But boy do they need in on a tuxedo, a fi ne-gauge belted wool, cashmere and silk tuxedo someone who can understand this younger reader.” — Sara James sweater with blouson sleeves and a with silk satin shawl collar and pant, coat. Sulaika Zarrouk, co-founder of the a $3,095 trench with natural fox cuffs TIED OFF: So much for this year’s National Magazine Awards being accessories label Felix Rey, toyed with the and trim and a $1,880 trench quilted black tie. The organizers may have wished to lend the 40th- idea of buying a sample coat in camel, since leather Manor bag. anniversary festivities a swankier air, but they forgot to factor in it would only be produced in black. “There are very “People have really gravitated to this collection,’’ the desire of professional cool-arbiters to appear more nonchalant few holes in my wardrobe, and I’m trying not to buy Bravo said. “I’ve seen it building in the last two or than thou. While a few well-known editors, such as New York’s another pair of shoes,” she said. three seasons. It almost seems as though every sea- Adam Moss and Lewis Lapham of Harper’s, opted for traditional All the interest in samples seemed to sur- son the momentum gets stronger and stronger.” tuxedos and bow ties, the power move was to fl out the dress code prise Burberry chief executive officer Rose Bravo, who will exit her post in July, is not look- — the more fl agrantly, the better. Vanity Fair editor in chief Graydon Marie Bravo, who said she met a customer who ing back. “I’m thrilled that the company is doing Carter looked prepared for a yacht party in a deep blue double- mentioned buying three samples. “I guess it’s an so well,’’ she said. “I’m thrilled that Christopher breasted jacket with brass buttons and a tie embroidered with what opportunity to have something no one else will [Bailey] is having such a strong reaction commer- appeared to be tiny lighthouses. Rolling Stone owner Jann Wenner have,” Bravo said. cially and editorially. I’m excited about Angela sported a black suit of wide-wale corduroy. Time managing editor Midway through lunch, one observant guest [Ahrendts] being our new ceo. It’s quite nice to be Jim Kelly and New Yorker editor in chief David Remnick both wore noticed a rolling rack of fall clothes that had not standing down, as the English like to say, when I’m plain dark suits, while Time Inc. editor in chief John Huey didn’t been on the fl oor earlier. Others were too busy leaving.” even bother trying to blend in. “This is my tuxedo,” he said of his greige pinstriped day suit. Condé Nast, which sends more people to Wolford Names Berardi Creative Director the awards than any other company (it is the By Alessandra Ilari we’ve always wanted to work with him because corporate home of both he understands the various manufacturing Vanity Fair and The MILAN — To give its numerous product catego- steps,” said Holger Dahmen, Wolford’s chief ex- New Yorker, as well as ries a sharper focus, Wolford AG has appointed ecutive offi cer. WWD) apparently felt Antonio Berardi as creative director. He added the project falls into the fi rm’s de- entitled to set its own An announcement will be made today when sire to reposition Wolford as a luxury brand. dress code; an internal the luxury hosiery maker will release sales re- “We want to expand in ready-to-wear because e-mail sent out Monday sults for the fi scal year ended April 30. our Swarovksi embroidered knit dresses made in assured attendees, In his new role, Berardi will oversee the design a limited edition for our 55th anniversary sold be- “Please note that and development of Wolford’s hosiery, bodywear, yond expectations. And they weren’t cheap,” said though the invitation lingerie, swimwear, knitwear and woven apparel. Dahmen. “It gave us the idea to branch out.” states Black Tie…a Growing the accessories business, especially Wolford, founded in 1969, has in recent years dark suit/cocktail dress belts and bags, is also on the agenda. His fi rst struck cobranding projects with Pucci, Missoni, is fi ne.” collection will bow for spring 2007. Kenzo and Zac Posen. Since 2004, Wolford has The ceremony “I want to move the brand forward, give it been the licensee for Giorgio Armani’s hosiery. itself had surprising more edge and make it more seasonal. I also Wolford is also moving full speed ahead with emotional resonance, need to make sure there is a better harmony be- the remodeling of its 220 stores, which gener- thanks largely to tween the various categories in terms of image ate more than 40 percent of its total sales. Gone victories in the general and continuity. That’s missing right now,” said is the dark mood from the past, replaced by a excellence category Jann Wenner Berardi, who in addition to designing his name- fresher decor based on white wood, frosted glass by Harper’s and Time. STEVE FRIEDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO BY sake line consults for Trend Les Copains. and matte steel fi xtures. Currently, 23 stores have Lapham announced his retirement from Harper’s last fall, after “We’ve known Berardi for some time and been remodeled. almost 30 years as its editor, and Kelly is expected to step down later this year, after 27 years at Time, the last fi ve as its top editor. Kelly appeared to be on the verge of tears as he thanked his staff and bosses in the evening’s fi nal speech. At times, it seemed like the winners were engaging in a Lacoste Takes Bite Out of New Logo humility contest. Some of them clearly had read Simon Dumenco’s Advertising Age column ridiculing the practice of giving editors all PARIS — It looks like Franco-Russian teen the credit for their staffs’ achievements. Remnick, who drew some Lacoste’s iconic crocodile tennis diva Tatiana Golo- criticism after last year’s awards for making fi ve solo trips to the logo will be playing dou- vin will be the sporty podium, fairly apologized this time for not having writer Elizabeth bles when it takes cen- face of the line dur- Kolbert on hand to accept the prize that her series on global ter court at this month’s ing the French Open. warming earned. “She should be here,” he said. “That point is French Open at Roland The women’s collection well made, and maybe I’ll make that change soon.” Later, Esquire Garros stadium. boasts sleeveless polo editor in chief David Granger thanked Lapham, and Moss, accepting The French sports- shirts featuring the col- a general excellence award for New York, thanked Clay Felker, the wear brand has created lection’s colorful striped magazine’s founding editor. a snappy new logo for its theme, as well as V-neck But the strangest display of self-abasement came when latest Heritage collec- sweaters, knee-length Backpacker won in the “best magazine section” category. After tion. Inspired by tennis white shorts and pleated bounding up on stage and planting a kiss on surprised Newsweek attire from the Seventies, white tennis skirts. The editor Mark Whitaker, Backpacker editor in chief Jonathan Dorn the collection is distin- collection will be sold ex- offered a bizarre, somewhat backhanded tribute to his Rodale Inc. guished by three tennis clusively at Colette here colleague, Men’s Health editor in chief David Zinczenko. “He does balls embroidered to the before the tournament have a fl at belly,” Dorn said of the “Abs Diet” author, adding, “He’s left of the famous reptile. and in select Lacoste probably got the best ass at Rodale, too.” Afterward, David Willey, Each ball represents one stores during the Grand editor in chief of Runner’s World, offered his take on Dorn’s star- of brand founder and ten- Slam event, which will making podium turn: “I was a little upset because he’d told me I nis legend René Lacoste’s run from May 28 through had the best ass at Rodale.” — Jeff Bercovici and S.J. wins at the French Open, June 11. Looks from Lacoste Heritage. BURBERRY PHOTOS COURTESY OF PATRICK MCMULLAN OF PATRICK BURBERRY PHOTOS COURTESY in 1925, 1927 and 1929. — Emilie Marsh 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Dish Moving On to Mynk David Long and John Van De Wiel are bringing the de- sign principles they applied at Jean Paul Da’mage to their latest venture, a new denim and sportswear collec- tion called Mynk. Here and Long and Van De Wiel founded Da’mage in 2001, below: The A look from Rupture. but left several months ago after their relationship Elloree, a frayed with the brand’s majority stakeholder, Neema straight-leg Worldwide. For the Mynk collection, Long and Van De style. Wiel have the fi nancial backing of Peter Hough, an Faro Ready to Rupture early investor in True Religion, and Bobby Thompson After 15 years of manufacturing denim for brands and Teddy Margulius, who own the THM showroom in such as Levi’s, Gap, Old Navy and Abercrombie & Vancouver. Donnie Harrison, Da’mage’s former director Fitch, Colombia-based Faro Group International of fi nishing, also has come on board. is bringing its expertise to the company’s own line Long said his experience with Da’mage, combined of limited-edition premium denim. with that of his new partners, made fi t top priority for Faro’s Rupture Jeans will bow this summer, the brand’s denim collection. aiming to set itself apart by emphasizing fi t for “Instead of doing embellishments, we spent time in curvy women and a high level of detail. the design room looking at things like pocket placement “We wanted a challenge,’’ said Maria Correa, and design,” Long said. “We really mastered our fi ts.” Rupture’s fashion director, of the company’s de- Long believes pockets will be one of the jeans’ de- cision to launch the line. “Right now you can see fi ning features. Both front and back pockets have been there are a lot of brands doing a lot of beautiful rounded, which he said achieves a slimming effect in the things. We think we have the talent and the struc- front. have everything from fabric production to detailing done ture to do that. We have the fabrics, the trims and “In the back, it’s almost fl attering, regardless of your domestically. While that increases the cost of production, we have the good design.” butt type,” Long said. “You can tell a pair of Mynk jeans Long believes there are advantages. For the spring and summer collection, Rupture by the pocket design.” “Part of it is that some of the best craftsman are here in will offer 20 to 25 styles, which include basic As with Da’mage, Long and Van De Wiel have opted to the States,” he said. “That’s where all the business used to jeans, jackets and skirts. Rupture is also looking be, so there’s a lot of truly skilled craftsman here.” to key in on the typical premium denim wearer’s Domestic production also allows easier tracking of often insatiable appetite for anything exclusive goods and ensures a consistent quality of fi t, a particular by making only 500 pieces of each style. concern for premium denim. Each Rupture collection will present a story All-domestic production also lends itself to the or theme that serves as the inspiration for the brand’s image and marketing. Each of the fi ts for the ini- brand’s overall look. It’s a strategy that Correa tial collection is named for a small town in the Southeast, said helps avoid having to tout only new fi nishes including the Dulah, a low-rise boot cut; the St. Claire, a and fabrics each season, which can confuse buy- cashmere relaxed boot cut; the Smoaks, a low-rise slim ers. For the fi rst collection the brand has focused fi t, and the Elloree, a straight-leg fi t. Fits for subsequent on an “Alice in Wonderland” theme. For fall and seasons will also be named after small towns across the winter, the theme is beauty. country. “The consumer right now wants to be unique,” “We just really wanted people to know that this is an Correa said. “We are offering those little details American brand,” Long said. on each piece that make you get in love with it.” Mynk’s women’s denim collection includes fi ve basic The U.S. consumers’ attention to a jeans’ de- fi ts and 19 styles, retailing from $225 to $295 for its cash- tail work is one of the things Correa said distin- mere jeans. The initial run will be a limited collection of guishes Americans from the typical Colombian. only 4,000 pieces for both the women’s and men’s lines. “Women in Colombia, they want to feel very — Ross Tucker sexy,” Correa said. “Here, the body has to look re- ally good. Here, fi t is the main thing. In the States, they appreciate the design and the details.” The initial collection was constructed from a combination of Australian, Indian, Japanese and Turkish denim, while the winter collection will feature denim from Turkey, Japan and Spain. The line’s three basic fi ts are the Hook, a mid-rise boot cut; the needle, a high-waist skinny-leg style, and Scissors, a low-cut fl are. The brand retails for $150 to $200. — R.T. Gauging the Cultural Impact of Denim Lee Cooper Unveils Platinum Line Denim afi cionados looking to satisfy their cravings might want to get James Sullivan’s debut book, “Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon” (Gotham Lee Cooper is showing its precious Lee Books) when it hits shelves Aug. 17. side with the launch of a new pre- Cooper’s “The idea of blue jeans is classically American,” said Sullivan, a freelance mium “Platinum” collection. The new writer for publications such as Rolling Stone and the Boston Globe. “The idea British denim brand unveiled its premium had been done before, but it had only been done in coffee table-type upscale line for women and men in “Platinum” books where the text and history was secondary.” Paris last week. collection. Sullivan had covered consumer culture at the San “We wanted to make a statement Francisco Chronicle for seven years when he had that made the industry sit up and the idea to write the book that follows America’s think about Lee Cooper again,” said love of denim over the past 150 years — from $2 creative director Tim Brown. “work pants” to its current incarnation as a status Retailing for 120 euros to 160 symbol that may cost $250 or more. euros, or $153 to $204, the collection “Every generation has been able to take blue jeans aims to provide premium yet price- and make it their own,” said Sullivan, citing hippies in conscious denim. the Sixties and hip-hop kids in the early Nineties. “[Jeans] “We have achieved our goal with cover so many aspects of American culture. It has some- this collection, to offer designer thing to say about class, gender and generational issues.” products with lifestyle value,” said Sullivan interviewed denim collectors and designers, chief executive offi cer Ajay Khaitan. as well as fashion analysts and editors. He approached this Inspired by British heraldry, the book not from a fashion standpoint, but from a culturally collection boasts iconography such as relevant point of view. lions and crowns, hand-written logos, “I’m a pop culture guy,” he said. mother-of-pearl buttons and a distinc- Sullivan said denim’s growth in the women’s market was tive platinum-colored threading on something that particularly intrigued him. skinny styles or boot-cut fi ts. Dark or “Ever since blue jeans were invented, they were created with men in mind,” elaborate washes come in a new X-Fit he said. “When women started wearing jeans in the Thirties and Forties, they 360 Degree Stretch Denim fabric from wore their boyfriends’ jeans. Only in the past seven or eight years has it been Lycra. The line also includes T-shirts, driven with women in mind.” shirts, knitwear and accessories. — Lauren DeCarlo — Emilie Marsh WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 11 WWD.COM The Beat Volcom Plans to Expand Stars Shine at Candie’s Event Retail Base by Yearend By Lauren DeCarlo Teddy Geiger performing LOS ANGELES — After going public last year, NEW YORK — The fashion industry came out Tuesday night for Candie’s Event to at the event. Volcom Inc. — the action-sports brand whose Prevent, a benefit to raise awareness of the consequences of teenage pregnancy. motto is “Youth Against Establishment” — is The honorees were Sen. Hillary Rodham Clinton (D., N.Y.), Seventeen magazine ready to spread its retail wings. editor in chief Atoosa Rubenstein, Paula Zahn of CNN and The Guttmacher Institute, Richard Woolcott, Volcom’s president and a nonprofi t organization focused on sexual and reproductive health research, policy chief executive offi cer, said the company’s analysis and public education. retail plans include the addition of at least “We felt passionately to give back to our client base, to make a dramatic impact,” two stand-alone stores by the end of 2006, Neil Cole, Candie’s chief executive offi cer, said of the Candie’s Foundation, an orga- and a signifi cant renovation of Volcom’s fi rst nization established to educate America’s youth about the devastating consequences store, on La Brea Avenue here. of teen pregnancy. “We have a few important projects now “If you could stop for one minute and think back in the works, and they include expanding to when you were a teenager and imagine you made our 126 La Brea location with a soft re- one dramatic mistake,’’ he said. “That will happen to opening in May,” Woolcott said during an close to one million teens this year. The cure is solely earnings conference call on April 27. about education.” “Our licensed San Diego...location is Among the guests at the event at Gotham Hall in set to open in early summer. Our licensed Manhattan were Kenneth Cole, Petra Nemcova, Kimora Tulare [Calif.] outlet store has recently Lee Simmons, Mark Badgley, James Mischka and opened, and sales are above plan,” he said. Andrew Rosen, founder and president of Theory. The Volcom outlet bowed in the The dinner was punctuated by a live auction and Horizon Outlet Center in Tulare. The San performances by pop star Teddy Geiger, and Lionel Jamie-Lynn Sigler Diego store will be located in the quaint Richie, who capped the night by singing “Brick House,’’ Gaslamp Quarter. “Easy, Hello’’ and “Dancing on the Ceiling.’’ The event The Costa Mesa, Calif.-based company raised $750,000. has been a favorite of surfers, skateboard- Actress Jamie-Lynn Sigler, who plays Tony Soprano’s ers and streetwear afi cionados since 1991, daughter on HBO’s series “The Sopranos,” presented an when Woolcott — a former Quiksilver em- award to Rubenstein and said she was fortunate to grow ployee and avid board athlete — started up in a household where she felt comfortable speaking the brand out of his bedroom with his with her parents about sex. friend, Tucker Hall. “Lots of people are wary of it,” Sigler said. “Teens Sales in that fi rst year totaled $2,600, ac- are having sex. It’s a reality. Let’s face it.” cording to the company’s Web site. Rubenstein said she was saddened that some Though Volcom has followed fellow Seventeen readers choose to tell her — not their par- Orange County action-sports companies ents — that they had become pregnant. “Sometimes I’m such as Quiksilver to Wall Street, the compa- the fi rst to know,” she said. ny remains discerning about what retailers In high school, however, Rubenstein said teen preg- it sells to — mainly independent surf and nancy was not an issue, partly because of her strict par- skate shops and better department stores. ents of Iranian ancestry. The Surf Industry Manufacturers “I wasn’t allowed to be friends with boys, let alone Petra Nemcova Association, a trade organization for the date them,” she said. “Thanks to my unibrow and my surf apparel category, nominated Volcom werewolf legs, teen pregnancy was not an issue for me.” in three categories for its annual Image Andrew Cuomo presented an award to Clinton, who was in Washington, D.C., and Awards: women’s brand of the year, men’s accepted via video. Clinton remarked that strides have been made with the issue. “In brand of the year and ad campaign. New York, teen pregnancy is down 10 percent,” she said. Annual net income for Volcom has Designer Kenneth Cole said his brother’s company does a great job of merging a doubled since 2003, from $14.3 million to social message with its brand, a diffi cult task. $29.4 million in 2005, according to fi nan- “You have to ask yourself, ‘How do I make what I do bigger than it already is?’” he cial fi lings. The company reported a net said. “You have to relate the message to the consumer.” STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY income of $4.4 million for the fi rst quar- ter of 2006, down from $6.3 million in the year-ago period. Volcom’s annual shareholders’ meeting is scheduled for today in Costa Mesa. Cool Collections Rule at Leo’s Miami Boutique — Emili Vesilind MIAMI — Leo, the contemporary bou- “When I shopped Miami, I was cotton, linen and silk in summery tique at 640 Collins Avenue here, may bored,” she said. “No one was taking shades like coral, lavender and white help change any lingering percep- chances, and there are too many good is also beach-friendly. A sundress tions of Miami as a style backwater. untapped lines to ignore.” with pompons and cotton shorts with Women’s labels at Leo, which Minasian shops in New York rope trim retail for $385 and $187, re- caters to a fashion-savvy clientele, and Los Angeles for mostly domes- spectively. Minasian also picked up include Ulla Johnson, Imitation of tic brands, sprinkling in emerging Vena Cava’s collection of pleated tank TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY Christ, Jill Stuart and Magda Berliner. European and Asian designers. Men’s dresses and novelty silk prints includ- For the store’s opening in January, and women’s merchandise share the ing chains. Pieces average $345. “The Leo invited the New York-based space equally. line is simple and delicate instead of Heatherette designers, Richie Rich Shoppers have taken a liking to being overdone,” she said. and Traver Rains, a duo known for In denim, pairs of 1921 are sell- their love of nightlife. Inside the Leo boutique in Miami. ing well at $150 retail for women and “Their clothes aren’t serious, but men. Skinny, straight-leg and boot- what clothes should be — pure fun,” cut styles in light to dark washes per- said partner and creative director form evenly. Minasian attributed the Christina Minasian, who teamed brand’s popularity to the company’s with her brother Armen Minasian reasonable price and consistent,

and another set of siblings, Henry JOSEPH PESSAR PHOTO BY broad-ranged fi t. and Mark Batievsky, for the venture. Hot accessories for spring 2006 Armen Minasian and the Batievskys are wedge platforms in jewel tones Volcom’s women’s design director Summer Rapp had owned and operated a Von Dutch by Missoni for $550 and necklaces and chief executive offi cer Richard Woolcott. store for two years in the 2,500- dipped in gold or rose gold with tiger square-foot space Leo now occupies. or lion pendants by Noir from $80 “Miami is a very misunderstood to $207. Lifestyle items range from market,’’ Christina Minasian said. candles and room spray by Colette “People think it’s cheesy, but its to kitschy and offbeat products like residents have style and taste and Hulger’s modern or retro phone want all the same high-fashion trends Buddhist Punk’s feminine looks with receivers that plug into cell phones. as New York or Los Angeles.” Stores a rock ’n’ roll edge, such as a white T- “We don’t want to go overboard on ex- near Leo include Barneys Co-op, shirt dress with pompons and safari tras, but just use them to stimulate. Intermix and Club Monaco. animal motifs retailing for $200, and a We want people to get excited when Minasian attended American tank dress in purple camoufl age with they come in,” she said. University in Paris and the Fashion the Rolling Stones logo for $170. “They Sales have increased about 15 Institute of Technology in Manhattan. make great prints, and their beachy, percent each week, Armen Minasian She came to retail by way of Kitson in casual direction is perfect for South said, adding, “We’re projecting fi rst- Los Angeles, where she was a buyer Beach,” Minasian said. year sales of $3 million.” The Volcom store on La Brea Avenue in L.A. for almost four years. Nicholas K’s spring collection of — Rebecca Kleinman SYMS PHOTO BY GAIL MOONEY/CORBIS SOURCES: ORIGINALREPORTING BY WWD;YAHOO FINANCE; STOCKPRICEPERFORMANCEASOFMAY 5, 2006; FOREACHPUBLICCOMPANY, ONEFEMA The 12 10 companies’ stockperformance. Top femaleexecutives ofapparelandaccessoriesretailersranked bytheir The WomenofRe WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11,2006 8 6 9 4 7 5 3 2 1 WWD Co. Ltd.(asajointventure)andlicenses100 stores intheMiddleEast,SouthAfrica andTurkey underlicensingandmerchandi approximately 2,900storesintheU.S.andaroundworld. Inaddition,Claire’s operates180stores in Japanthroughitssub Afterthoughts intoamorepopularconcept,IcingbyClaire’s.Thecompany ofthestruggling expansion planandarestructuring with morethan1,500locations.Thecompany openedastore-spafl man, andhasmade“makingpregnantwomenlookgood”hergoal.Mothers Work ap hasgrowntobecometheworld’slargestmaternity 2004, profi Combining theirtalents,Marladealsmainlyinmerchandisingandbuying, whileBonnieisheavilyinvolvedwithrealestateand theirfather,The SchaefersisterscametopowerinNovember 2002after Rowland,founder, presidentandceoofClaire’s,suffer Percent change: STORESINC. CLAIRE’S CO-CEOS, SCHAEFER,CO-CHAIRMEN, E. BONNIESCHAEFER,MARIAL. and novelty, andembellished productallexceedede wellreceived.Dresses,skirts,gauchos,cityshorts,jewelry hasbeenvery Taylor divisiondelivereditsninthconsecutive month ofpositivecomparable-storesales. Krillstated,“Ourspringoffering,w starting outasmerchandisingvicepresidentof separates,suits,dressesandpetitesat AnnTaylor Stores.Lastweek,thecomp threeconcepts:AnnTaylor,Krill overseestheretailer’s AnnTaylor andAnnTaylor Loft Factory Stores. She’sbeenwiththeco Percent change: KAY PRESIDENT, KRILL, CHIEFEXECUTIVEOFFICER,ANNTAYLOR STORESINC. income hadincreased55percentto$3.4million. and CalvinKlein—ataffordableprices, operates 37apparelstores.InApril,thecompanyannounced thatforthe52weeksende 1998.Syms,which offersanextensiveselectionofdesignerbrands—includingAnneK the placeofherfatherasceoinJanuary Daughter offounderSySyms,MarcySymshasbeenpresidentthecompanysince1983 andwasnamedchiefoperatingoffi Percent change: MARCY SYMS,CHIEFEXECUTIVEOFFICER,PRESIDENT, SYMS receivedthe2006ParadigmLast March,Bern Award, Philadelphia’smostprestigiousawardforbusinesswomen. leading women’splus-sizespecialtyapparel retailer, withapproximately40percentmarketshare,andthenation’sthird-larges Charmin hasalsoturned revenuestriple,from$1billionin1995to$3attheendof2005.Bern have seenthecompany’s Shoppes, shea atCharming forSears,Roebuck&Co.Sincearriving group vicepresidentofwomen’sapparel and homefurnishings asvicepresidentofwome presidentandceoinAugust Shoppesaschairman, 1995.Priortothat,sheserved joinedCharming Bern Percent change: DORRIT J. BERN,CHAIRMAN,PRESIDENT, CHIEFEXECUTIVEOFFICER,CHARMINGSHOPPESINC. president andchiefoperatingoffi Pod, MimiMaternity, andDestinationMaternity, MotherhoodMaternity andtwoexclusivebrands:Two HeartsandOhBaby!ByMothe Matthias cofoundedMothersWork brands in1982asacataloguecompanythathasnowgrownto consistoffourspecialtymaternity Percent change: REBECCA MATTHIAS, PRESIDENT, CHIEFOPERATING OFFICER,MOTHERSWORKINC. tomer satisfaction,justbehindNordstrom. responsible forwomen’sapparelandaccessories. In 2005,theNationalRetail Federation rankedColdwaterCreekthenumber-two Prior tojoiningthewomen’sspecialty retailer, sheheldthepositionofvicepresidentmerchandisingforSpiegelcatal Pence, founder, andchiefexecutiveoffi chairman Shonk-Simmons joinedSandpoint,Idaho-basedColdwaterCreekasvicepresidentanddirectorofmerchandisingin1998.Working al Percent changeincompanystockpriceoverpastyear: GEORGIA SHONK-SIMMONS,PRESIDENT, CHIEFMERCHANDISINGOFFICER,COLDWATER CREEK sales increaseforthe balance oftheyear.” 18.6 percentto$136million.ScottA.Edmonds, presidentandceo,saidthe“Chico’sbrandshould be abletodeliveramid-sing 2003.LastThursday, position inJanuary promoted tohercurrent Chico’s announcedthatAprilsalesresultsforthefour-weekp bution ofmerchandise.MurphyKerstein as seniormerchan hasbeenwiththecompanysince September 1997—sheoriginallyserved In herrole,Pat MurphyKerstein isresponsibleforChico’s merchandise productdevelopment,alongwith buying,planning,alloc Percent change: PATRICIA MURPHYKERSTEIN,EXECUTIVEVICEPRESIDENT, CHIEFMERCHANDISINGOFFICER, CHICO’SFAS INC. April 29,an18percentincreaseabovethe$357 millioninsalesforthefourweeks ended April30,2005. presidentandceo.LastThursday,directly toMichaelBalmuth,itsvicechairman, RossStoresreported salesof$422millionfo marketing forhomegoodssince1998.AsseniorvicepresidentatRossStores,Panattoni home isresponsible fortheretailer’s Panattoni asseniorvicepresidentofmerc 2005fromTheTJXCos.,whereshemostrecently served joinedRossStoresinJanuary Percent change: LISA PANATTONI, SENIORVICEPRESIDENT, ROSSSTORES INC. annual compensationpackagetotaled$2.38 million. toplaceinWWD’sTop Bern) Shoppes’ Dorrit andbonus)las 20rankingsforretailexecutivecompensation (whichincludedsalary chair, departmentstoredivisions.Kronickwasjustoneoftwowomen(theot responsibleforallthecompany’s sheiscurrently Kronick hasworkedherwaythroughtheCincinnati-basedretailersince joiningthegroupin1973asanexecutivetraineeatBlo Percent change: SUSAN D. VICECHAIR,FEDERATED KRONICK, DEPARTMENT STORESINC. ended Jan.28,2006increased16.6percentto $440.3 million,comparedwith$377.5million forthesameperiodayearprior. sporting equipment,footwearandapparelinmorethan 550storesin22states.InMarch,thecompanyreportedthatnetsalesfo She hasplayedanintegralpartinthesuccessofcompany, whosemaintargetmarketishighschoolathletesandtheirteams beganhertenureatHibbettSportingGoodsin1988,startingoutasa districtmanager andbecomingvicepresidentof sto Pryor Percent change: CATHY E.PRYOR, VICEPRESIDENT, SPORTING GOODSINC. HIBBETT List ts hadnearlydoubledto$143millionandrevenueswere up 28percent.Theyhavereshapedthecompany, embarkingonaninterna 51.1 -0.1 13.3 26.5 43.7 55.9 94.4 114.8 52.7 cer forthecompany, MatthiasworksalongsidehusbandDan Matthias, co-founder, chiefexecutiveoffi tail cer, sheholdsoverallresponsibilityformerchandise,inventory, andcreativedepartmentfunctions. LE EXECUTIVE IS REPRESENTED WITH THE EXCEPTION OF CLAIRE’S STORESINC; ALL EXECUTIVESTAKENTHE EXCEPTION WITH ISREPRESENTED LE EXECUTIVE OFCLAIRE’S FROMWWD’S 2005EXECUTIVECOMPENSAT —CecilyHallandEmilyKaiser paucity offemaleexecutiveswithintheindustry. are signifi mention futureadvancement—isrelatedtocompanyfi shares havefaredoverthepastyear. Inmanycases,compensation—notto 2005 executivecompensationreportandthenlookedathowtheircompanies’ on onehand.”Sowhoarethey?WWDpulledthetop-rankingfemalesfrom its “You canalmostnamethetopfemalepowerhouses intheretail community Associates, aretailandapparelexecutivesearchfi their malecounterparts.Lastyear, Terre Simpson,presidentofSimpson Female powerplayerswithintheretailindustryarenotablyfewerthan 165.8 agship, DestinationMaternity, onMadisonAvenue inFebruary ofthisyear. cant differencesinstockperformance, which mightrefl rm inManhattan,said, nancial results. There nancial results.There sidiary, Claire’sNippon, businesses and reports businesses andreports r the four weeks ended r thefourweeksended ith its focus on fashion ith itsfocusonfashion xpectation.” cer in 1984. She took cerin1984.Shetook re operations in 1995. re operationsin1995. ogue, whereshewas her being Charming her beingCharming r the52-weekperiod store operations. By store operations.By omingdale’s. Asvice sing agreements. . Thecompanysells le-digit same-store g Shoppesintothe t specialtyretailer. currently operates operates currently d February 26,net lein, Liz Claiborne lein, LizClaiborne mpany since 1994, mpany since1994, t July — her 2004 t July —her2004 any said the Ann any said the Ann ed amildstroke. ation anddistri- eriod increased retailer forcus- n’s appareland ongside Dennis ongside Dennis cer andchair- ect the handising and : APea inthe parel retailer parel retailer nd her team nd herteam t andwas rhood. As WWD.COM WWD.COM tional tional ION REPORT WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 13 WWD.COM Federated’s ‘Transition’ Triggers 1Q Loss

Continued from page one in a research note, wrote, “We believe were dresses, juniors, young men’s, cos- Financial and industry sources said that the 2 cents number [from continu- metics and fragrances, as well as men’s. Federated wants between $800 million ing operations excluding merger costs] The home businesses remained weak, but and $1 billion for the Bridal Group, — 12 cents above the midpoint of the some soft home goods such as housewares which includes David’s Bridal. company’s guidance of a loss of 5 cents and textiles showed some improvement. For the three months ended April 29, to 15 cents — is healthy. We believe that “Average unit retail was up 6 percent the loss was $52 million, or 19 cents a the weakness in the stock creates a par- in the Federated doors and we have seen diluted share, versus $123 million in net ticularly attractive buying opportunity. improved sell-throughs at regular price,” income, or 71 cents, in the same year-ago Federated remains one of the our favor- she told analysts. quarter. The results included May Co.’s ite ‘buy’ rated stocks.” As for the businesses being divested, contribution, which Federated acquired Shares of Federated closed Wednesday Hoguet said, “We have had lots of inter- on Aug. 30, 2005. Because the company down 1.2 percent at $77.98 in trading on est expressed in both, and we still expect plans to divest its Lord & Taylor and the New York Stock Exchange. to complete the bridal transaction in Bridal Group divisions, those results Lundgren emphasized that 2006 is the second or third quarter and Lord & were treated as discontinued operations. a transitional year for Federated, with Taylor by yearend.” The loss from continuing operations was each individual quarter having its own She said the company also convert- $74 million, or 27 cents a share. Excluding set of challenges and opportunities. He ed the credit systems for 40 percent of May Co. merger integration costs and re- said the company is working through May’s credit portfolio, which will allow lated inventory valuation adjustments, merchandise conversions in the second Federated to sell the converted portfolio fi rst-quarter diluted earnings per share and early third quarter so that a “fresh to Citigroup earlier than expected, pos- from continuing operations was 2 cents. new Macy’s assortment is in place in all sibly in the next month or so, subject to That exceeded Federated’s prior guid- stores when more than 400 former May regulatory approval. The sale of the re- ance for a loss of 5 cents to 15 cents a di- Co. locations convert to the Macy’s name- mainder of the credit card receivables luted share excluding merger costs. plate in September.” is scheduled for July or August, after the Sales rose 62.9 percent to $5.9 billion Hoguet said the strongest sales in the balance of the credit portfolio is con- from $3.6 billion. quarter by region was at Macy’s Florida, verted. The retailer recently sold the Karen M. Hoguet, executive vice while the two divisions that were en- credit card receivables owned by General president and chief fi nancial offi cer, said tirely May Co. doors, Macy’s North and Electric Capital Corp. to Citigroup on May during a conference call to Wall Street 1 for $112 million on an aftertax basis. analysts that same-store sales for the The company said proceeds from the Federated doors were “fl at with last year Considering this was the initial quarter of physically sale of its divisions will be used to pay and better than our expected minus 1.5 down short-term borrowings in connec- percent to minus 0.5 percent.” bringing“ together the Federated and May Co. tion with the May acquisition. Federated Terry Lundgren, chairman, presi- also expects to begin repurchasing shares dent and chief executive offi cer, said in organizations, we were very pleased with fi rst-quarter in the second or third quarters of 2006. a statement, “Considering this was the The retailer said sales and earnings initial quarter of physically bringing to- results that were ahead of our expectations. guidance for 2006 remain unchanged. gether the Federated and May Co. organi- Excluding certain items such as one-time — Terry Lundgren, Federated Department ”Stores Inc. zations, we were very pleased with fi rst- merger integration and inventory valua- quarter results that were ahead of our tions costs, earnings per diluted share is expectations. Performance was driven by plan. Our fi rst quarter indicates that the Macy’s Midwest, had the weaker perfor- expected to be between 45 cents and 55 stronger-than-expected same-store sales integration of Federated and May Co. mances in the quarter. As for the Macy’s cents in the second quarter, $3 to $3.25 at Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s stores, as continues solidly on track.” and Bloomingdale’s nameplates, the cfo in the third and fourth quarters, and at well as expense levels that were below Stacy Turnof, analyst at Merrill Lynch, said the categories that showed strength $3.50 to $3.75 for the year.

J’ADORE DIOR: There are no hard feelings Women’s, Casual Lifestyle chez Christian Dior. Fashion Scoops “I’m having lunch with my ex,” Dior chief executive offi cer Sidney Toledano quipped on Wednesday Highlight Forum Meeting before sliding into a corner banquette at Le Stresa in Paris with none other than Marla Sabo, who last month exited By Holly Haber markets, so they are unusually open with Dior as its U.S. president and chief operating offi cer. Sabo one another. — dressed head to toe in Dior, the latest version of the DALLAS — Beefing up casual lifestyle of- The Forum was established in 1940 by “Flight” bag dangling from her arm — embraced other ferings and growing the women’s business men’s wear retailers who became friendly Dior executives at the popular restaurant before leaving. were focal points this week at a meeting on a cross-country train trip to market in But she was mum about her future plans, saying she was here of The Forum, an association of 13 in- New York. In the last decade, all but two in Paris just for the day. dependent luxury retailers representing an of its members have added women’s fash- estimated $100 million in women’s sales. ion, which they see as the biggest oppor- MILLA FOR MANGO: She may have her own fashion line, Mario’s, with two stores in Portland, tunity for growth. but that hasn’t stopped Milla Jovovich from lending her Ore., and Seattle, and Stanley Korshak of “It’s a deeper level of sharing of all is- face to fast-fashion retailer Mango. The Spanish chain has Dallas both will debut spin-off lifestyle sues,” said Scott A. Malouf, chief execu- tapped the model and actress to front its fall campaign. stores in August. tive offi cer of Malouf’s, which is based Jovovich follows in the footsteps of former Mango models “Women live very casual lifestyles in in Lubbock, Tex., and also has a store in Claudia Schiffer and Elizabeth Jagger. That needn’t worry jeans, taking the kids around, and we want Burlingame, Calif. “You really can net- Jovovich, though, since she’s had plenty of experience them to think of us for their whole life- work with like businesses, and everyone Sidney with advertising campaigns — she’s a spokesmodel for style,” said Mario Bisio, owner of Mario’s. has expertise that you can learn from. We Toledano L’Oréal and was formerly a face of Emporio Armani and His lifestyle store, Mario’s 310 in Portland, talk about everything from family succes- Donna Karan. will be 6,000 square feet and will aim for sion to merchandising.” the $1,000-a-square-foot-plus performance The members are well-established, MATERIAL MATTERS: The Madonna Gallerie, a temporary collection of art, licensed apparel and of its larger siblings. It will offer premium family-owned businesses, and many all things Madonna, will open at W Los Angeles Westwood Hotel May 17, four days prior to the denim lines for men and women, includ- have multiple doors. They are: Andrisen start of the pop diva’s Confessions Tour. Signatures Network, a licensing company with the ing Habitual and Notify; sportswear from Morton, Denver; Garys, Newport Beach, merchandising rights for The Beatles, John Lennon and U2, among others, created a limited- Prada Linea Rosa, Loro Piana, and shoes, Calif.; Hubert White, Minneapolis; edition line of T-shirts for the store, which will sell along with photographs of Madge by Herb accessories music, books and eyewear. Kaps, Andover, Mass.; Kilgore Trout, Ritts, Steven Klein and Jean-Baptiste Mondino. The store will remain open for the duration of Stanley Korshak will unveil the Shak, Cleveland; Larrimor’s, Pittsburgh; Madonna’s concerts at the Los Angeles Forum, until May featuring men’s and women’s denim and Mitchells/Richards/Marshs, Westport, 25. W Hotels plans to open more Madonna Galleries in contemporary fashions, lingerie and Conn.; Mario’s, Malouf ’s, Lubbock; Oak conjunction with shows in other major markets. A portion of swimwear, in an 11,000-square-foot store Hall, Memphis; Rodes, Louisville, Ky.; the proceeds of the Madonna Gallerie will be designated by across a courtyard from its fl agship. The Rubensteins, New Orleans, and Stanley Madonna to UNICEF. move enables Korshak to expand those Korshak. classifications. Key lines will include Adrisen Morton bought a nearby KORS DELIGHT: Michael Kors headed to Greenwich last week Allen B., Diane von Furstenberg, Red women’s store, Auer’s, last September, with his fall collection and was amazed at what he saw Valentino, M Missoni and 12th Street by and Garys has been developing wom- — women of all ages waiting at Richards of Greenwich for Cynthia Vincent, along with denim by en’s denim, sportswear and accessories him and his fashion show. The presentation preceded a True Religion, Seven For All Mankind in four of its 10 stores over the past 18 three-day trunk show that generated more than $700,000 and Prasad. months. In addition, both Larrimor’s and in orders, according to Jack Mitchell, chief executive offi cer The Forum’s 13th and newest mem- Rodes have added women’s fashion in the of the family-run Richards and its sister stores, Mitchells of ber, Stanley Korshak, hosted the four-day past three years. Westport and Marshs of Huntington. “This collection is an meeting of Forum members in Dallas “Everyone is recognizing the power homage to Ali MacGraw, so what better place to celebrate that ends Wednesday. The group meets of men’s and women’s together,” said that than in Greenwich,” Kors said. “Today I have seen twice a year to evaluate business strate- Bob Mitchell, co-president of Mitchells/ women here from ages 10 to 60, which is just amazing.” Michael Kors gies. The stores are all in non-competing Richards/Marshs. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006

LADIES ASSISTANT TECHNICAL DESIGNER Leading ladies outerwear co. looking for highly or- ganized and detailed entry- level individual w/ 1-2 years exp. in technical de- sign. Must have great ver- 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. High ceilings - Excellent Condition bal and written communica- Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 tion skills. Able to prepare Search www.manhattanrealty.com tech. packs to overseas For Space in Garment Center factories + pre-production Helmsley-Spear, Inc. fittings. 212-880-0410 Showrooms & Lofts Ladies Associate BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Designer ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Designer outerwear co. seeking design assistant w/ 2-4 yrs exp. Must be highly organized, detailed, able to provide technical flat SHOWROOM TO SHARE sketches & specs to over- CANADIAN Children’s/Ladies Co. seas factories. Must be com- seeking to share showroom space on puter literate. 34th St. or Broadway. For more info., Please Call Henry at 972. 930. 9921 or [email protected] Please e-mail all resumes to: [email protected]

Creative PRODUCTION ASST. Technical Designer FASHION FACULTY Leading children’s apparel company NY based Anthropologie Private College seeks faculty for seeks a highly motivated and detail- MADE IN USA JEANS Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, design studio seeks creative Full Package - Small Quantity’s oriented individual to oversee all Master’s degree required, along with aspects of production approvals to Fashion or Basic- Latest washes significant industry exp. Knowledge of & Technical Designer with E-mail us: [email protected] ensure on-time delivery thru daily textiles, product development, buying, communication between design and minimum 5 yrs experience. visual merchandising, merchandise overseas vendors. Responsibilities Individual must be passionate planning & control. Send resume to: include: follow-up with overseas facto- Merchandiser/Designer Fashion Search ries on samples, lab dips, accessories, & self motivated. Knowledg e Create/Merchandise/Design your line. Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. of garment construction & Illustrator/Photoshop savvy. West Paterson, New Jersey 07424. Strong communication skills req’d. Call 917.689.4420 Fax: 973-278-0080 or Must have good working knowledge of fabrics a must. Company has Email: [email protected] Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. Equal Opportunity Employment a unique work environment. E-mail resume with salary Incredible opportunity for PATTERN/SAMPLES FASHION OPPORTUNITIES requirements Attn Charles/Kathy to: Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - [email protected] the right person who has Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127(agcy) great passion & a wonderful design aesthetic. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Carolee, the premier designer of prestige jewelry & accessories has an exciting position in our Greenwich, CT Headquarters: Immediate Openings If you qualify, please PRODUCTIONS send your resume to: All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. MARKETING & PUBLIC RELATIONS MANAGER Max Rave, a division of BCBG, PRODUCTION ASST. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. currently has the following oppty’s at Nanette Lepore seeks highly motivated [email protected] •Conceptualize and develop seasonal and long term our corporate headquarters in NYC. individual for entry level production/QC assistant. Need knowledge of garment marketing objectives construction and specs as well as PATTERNS, SAMPLES, •Plan, coordinate and execute events and promotions with V.P. of Sales computer skills. Up to 2 years fashion/ Retail Marketing Manager PRODUCTIONS our retail partners Individual will lead & manage a sales production experience or new fashion/ Cotton Inc., an International not-for- team for a group of junior collections. production graduate. profit research & marketing organization Full service shop to the trade. •Develop a public relations strategy that positions the brand is seeking a Retail Marketing Manager. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Will develop & supervise a team of up Fax resume: 212-947-5651 REQUIREMENTS: to 4 Acct. Execs. & be responsible for Primary duties are: develop & manage a sales strategy. Must maintain and key retail partnership accounts; han- Production Coordinator dle consumer marketing promotions; •5+ years experience in corporate branding of a retail develop strong retail partnerships with A growing junior apparel company is PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD /wholesale "fashion" business key accounts. develop new initiative programs. Qual- looking for an experienced production ifications: 2 or 4 year college degree in High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- person with strong technical, organiza- sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 •Strong writing, interpersonal and communication skills Marketing Communications; minimum 5 •Proficiency in Excel and Word is essential Head Designer tional and leadership skills. Candidate years industry experience including must have experience with overseas work in multiple channels; knowledge Responsible for staying ahead & factories (China), order tracking and We offer bonus opportunity every 6 months, a comprehensive driving market trends that have not of consumer marketing. E-mail resume: procedures. Must be willing to travel [email protected] benefits package including 401(k) and pension plans and a yet hit the stores. Must analyze & overseas. Experience with Sears, Penneys generous merchandise discount. execute fashion trends under extremely a plus. Please e-mail resume with salary tight timelines, from concept through requirements: [email protected] SALES ASSISTANT SUBMIT RESUME AND SALARY REQUIREMENTS TO: completion with a focus on function Fast growing sportswear co. seeks team Carolee; Attn: Recruiter; 19 East Elm St. Greenwich, CT 06830 through color, fabric, finish, pattern, Production Coordinator player to work on order entry, customer model & fit. service. Knowledge of AIM and EDI a E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 212-885-6870 EOE Assistant plus. Friendly environment & benefits. We also have several Jr. Designer Leading importer of Knits & Sweaters. Please fax resume to: (212) 563-1340 positions currently open in the areas Looking for several individuals for our designer of denim, knits, wovens & accessories. NYC location. 2-5 years experience in Director of Luxury Retail Sweaters & Knits. SAMPLEMAKER APRIL SHOWERS BRING MAY SENIOR DESIGNER Prestigious hotel & resort owner seeks E-mail resume noting position of Provide salary requirements. Experience with clothing & handbags NY based womenswear designer with exp’d Director to manage personnel, interest & salary reqs. to: Fax resume to H/R Attn Shanon Part-Time; Piece-work SWEATERS! 201-854-4834 *Designer~Junior Sweaters $100K Montreal sample room/ production offices product procurement, buying and P&L [email protected] Call Rachel @ 917-741-3245 *Production Mgr~Junior Sweaters $100K is seeking to fill the position of Senior for company stores. Position based in or fax: 212-297-0267. EOE M/F/D/V Designer. Exceptional knowledge & Chicago, IL. Initial assignment involves *Sweater Spec Tech~Jr Sweater $65K Patternmaker Samplemaker/Fitter E-Mail: [email protected] eye for garment construction, pattern- set up of operations of 5 company Experienced in couture cocktail and making, draping & excellent concept stores expanding to 15-20 units. Production Coordinator KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS HEAD Brand & Private Label mfr. & imptr. evening wear, for NY showroom. sketching skills required. 5-7 yrs exp. E-mail: [email protected] Please call Ron at (212) 317-1418 Send CV to [email protected] or PATTERNMAKER seeks indiv. w/ min. 5 yrs. exp. Daily fax 212-246-8617. Well-established leading pant & skirt communication w/ our China office & SOURCING DIR. - KIDSWEAR 125K Fabulous Freelance & Perm Jobs!!!! factories to track prod’n status, samples, Asst. Merchandisers - Freelance mfr. seeks head patternmaker who can Est’d imp’t’r seeks exp’d sourcer to take charge, be technical & work closely lab dips, fabric & yarn orders. Exp. in head up sourcing/production dept. Production Assts/Assocs - Freelance working w/ designer’s & technician’s DESIGNER Prod Assts-luxury exp req’d (30K) with designer, sample room & contractors. Management skills a must! Travel Sweater Designer for large sweater Co. Experience in both import and domestic spec packs, ordering accessories & daily Buyers (50K+) maintenance of control charts. Strong A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. BUYER Min 5 yrs. Exp. Must know market, Denim Buyer (50K) production is a MUST. Excellent benefits. current trends, technical sweater Fax resumes to 212-268-4920 communication skills, proficiency in 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 VENUS located in Boca Raton, Florida Send resumes ASAP!!!! Outlook & Excel req’d. Please e-mail a direct mail catalog company of knowledge & computer design skills. Email: [email protected] or Email to: [email protected] Ability to communicate with orient. resume w/ salary req’s to: ladies’ fashion, is looking for a Buyer [email protected] SPEC TECHNICIAN with a proven record in buying sports- Some travel to Europe and China. Submit Leading Childrenswear Importer of wear. Driven, highly organized with resume and salary to: f:215-739-5150 or Girls and Boys 0/6x knit and woven outstanding computer skills and 3+ [email protected] Production Coordinator playwear seeks a Spec Technician. PATTERNMAKER Garment division of LA based co. seeks years experience. Catalog exp. a plus. Min 8 yrs experience in first & produc- The right candidate must have a min. E-mail resume & salary requirements prod’n coord for NY office. Min. 3-4 yrs of 2 years experience plus knowledge DESIGNER tion patterns - preferably in young exp. Daily tasks incl: follow up on lab to: [email protected]. EOE. designer /contemporary market. Specs of patternmaking and garment con- WOVEN/TEXTILES dip, trim & garment approvals, track struction. Responsibilities include for overseas production. Can work deliveries, handle all correspondence For men’s & women’s imported fabri- under deadlines. spec, grading and fit approvals. To apply, Design Director cation. CAD experience helpful. Color btw LA office, factories & customers, Email resume & salary req’s to: sense & styling capabilities important. TWINKLE etc. Salary 40-45K. Email resume to: Attn: Charles/Kathy Bridge sportswear co seeks design [email protected] [email protected] director to bring in new inspirations Able to merchandise product lines and Fax resume to: 212-625-8712 and updated designs for the company. create focused storyboards. Salary We are known for vintage inspired and commensurate w/ exp. Company paid TECHNICAL DESIGNER embellished coordinated separates and benefits. Fax resume: (212) 293-2907 Quality Control Manager Fast paced ladies import knit co seeks suits catering to the sophisticated Prodn Mgr Sweater $100K Major Apparel Co. seeks QC Manager/ individual w/ min 8 yrs exp doing Spec women. Designers w/ min 10 yrs expe- Moderate Market Supply Chain Specialist with Development, fitting, grading. Must rience in woven and knitted garments, operational expertise to establish and have patternmaking exp & knowledge Prodn Mgr Cut & Sew $80K of garment construction. Excellent extensive knowl of embellishments & Moderate Market. Strong Costing manage quality and audit processes able to understand the clothing needs for its domestic contractors to assure communication & follow-up skills. MS of modern sophisticated women may Prodn Mgr Womens $70-80K compliance with shipping and handling Excel, Word & Fax resume to: TECH apply by fax : 212-947-4609/ Email to: Moderate Sportswear, JCP requirements for Major Retailers. Fax DEPT.@ 212-391-8027 or email to: [email protected] [email protected] or 212-947-3400 732-280-6190 E: [email protected] [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 11, 2006 15 WWD.COM Yohji, Adidas Open Y-3 Unit in Tokyo Inter Parfums Net Inches Up NEW YORK — Inter Parfums Inc. on NEW YORK — Yohji Yamamoto Wednesday reported essentially flat Seigal to Perfume Shop and Adidas have opened the first Y-3’s new earnings for the quarter ended March store for their Y-3 label in Tokyo Tokyo store. 31. The company posted income of PARIS — A.S. Watson, the world’s near the designer’s signature $4.42 million, or 22 cents a share, largest health and beauty retailer, shop. compared with income of $4.40 mil- said Tuesday Jeremy Seigal has Setting up shop for Y-3 at 5-3- lion, or 22 cents, in the same year-ago been named managing director of 20 Minami-Aoyama made sense, quarter. Sales the U.K.’s The especially since Yamamoto is a declined 0.3 Perfume Shop. Tokyo resident. The success percent to $70.9 He replaces and increasing demand for the million from BEAUTY BEAT Phil ip Newton, label are causing a flurry of $71.1 million. a co-founder retail initiatives, a Y-3 spokes- The fi rm said that due to the and chairman of the perfumery woman said. strength of the U.S. dollar, at com- chain, who has left the fi rm for per- Concept shops have opened parable foreign exchange rates, sales sonal reasons, according to an A.S. in Taipei, and more are planned rose 5 percent for the period. Watson spokeswoman. for Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Jean Madar, chairman and chief Also Tuesday, the company an- Kong. Y-3’s spring collection, executive offi cer, said in a state- nounced it has incorporated The which was said to be inspired by ment that contributing to the quar- Perfume Shop into the Luxury important dance movements of ter were strong Lanvin sales, as well Perfumeries & Cosmetics division. the 20th century, will be sold in as the launch of Burberry London The fi rm created the division in these locations. for women in the U.S. The broader January with Hugues Witvoet as In February, the fi rst Y-3 store geographic rollout in Europe is now chief executive offi cer, but offi cially in the U.S. bowed in Atlanta, and under way. announced its formation only this Los Angeles is one of the other “While we have an ambitious week upon The Perfume Shop’s in- major cities that is being con- 2006 prestige product launch sched- tegration into the subsidiary. The sidered for a store opening. The ule for the remainder of the year, division also includes France’s company also is eyeing locations our major ones are scheduled for Marionnaud Parfumeries and in Berlin and other European the second half of the year. These Benelux-based ICI Paris XL. hubs, the spokeswoman said. include a new Lanvin fragrance for “I am very proud to lead this In the new Tokyo site, walls of women, Burberry London for men new division,” Witvoet said in a mirrors are placed throughout and a new Paul Smith fragrance for statement. the three-fl oor space to play up men. We also have men’s fragrances “My team will continue to work the idea of refl ection — whether for S.T. Dupont and Nickel being un- closely with suppliers, continu- it be light on a wall, the look of veiled in the spring and summer,” ing the work undertaken in 2005. a garment or the designer’s and he said. The main objectives of the Luxury Adidas’ interpretation of what The ceo added that the company Division are to maximize synergies, modern clothing is or can be. remains “on schedule” for the new anticipate market evolutions for Refl ections of videos of Y-3’s runway show provide constant movement on the store’s walls. personal care product launch at skin care and beauty products, and The 900-square-foot unit’s modern interior is designed to underline Y-3’s minimal, classical Banana Republic stores in the U.S. strengthen relationships with sup- and cutting-edge signature. and Canada in fall 2006, followed pliers to generate growth.” A range of apparel, footwear and accessories for women and men is available in the store, by the early 2007 rollout of per- Ian Wade, managing director of which opened last month. Bestsellers include a $525 voluminous fl oor-length Jupon skirt, $340 sonal care products for Gap stores. A.S. Watson, said the A.S. Watson skinny jeans, $220 Mei ballerina sneakers and $520 strappy heels, an Adidas spokeswoman said. He said the company expanded its Luxury Division Europe will focus Y-3 teamed up with the U.K.’s i-D magazine and i-D’s 25th anniversary exhibition to mark agreement with Gap Inc. in March on consolidating the group’s retail the store’s opening. About 600 people, including Japanese actor Hiroki Narimiya and other to include Gap Outlet and Banana businesses to maximize synergies VIPs, turned up for a preopening party, as well as later that night for the launch of the i-D exhi- Republic Factory stores. and growth while enhancing rela- bition, which drew about 850 people. Yamamoto and Hermann Deininger, creative and brand Inter Parfums is also developing tionships with suppliers. director of Adidas, attended both events. products for the 2006 holiday sea- A.S. Watson is the retail arm of — Rosemary Feitelberg son, Madar noted. Hutchinson Whampoa Ltd. — Vicki M. Young — Ellen Groves

TECHNICAL DESIGN w/min. 5 yrs exp. knowledge of knits/ SALESPERSON wovens. Please e-mail your resume to: At Last Sportswear [email protected] is growing and expanding it’s Missy /Plus knits Div. Seeks individual with min. VP of DESIGN 5 yrs. exp. to handle mid-tier accounts, Independent Sales Hartstrings is a leading children’s wear specialty stores & chains. Excellent co. located in suburban Phila. we are opportunity & benefits. Executive/Agency currently looking for a VP of Design to E-mail resume to Leading Manufacturer of Woven Tops/ lead our design team and stay on target Exciting Opportunity! [email protected] or fax to . Bottoms from India w/ Capacity of 30K with the company’s brand strategy. Major Sweater and Cut & Sew Company 212-382-1469 Dozen Specializing in details including The ideal candidate will need to: seeks an aggressive, highly motivated all sorts of Embroidery, Prints, washes • Think Strategically - Determine the Sales Exec for NY Showroom with min etc. Seeking Experienced Individuals or brand’s seasonal fashion direction 3-5 years exp. Must have strong rela- Agencies for Business w/ Wholesalers/ consistent with the brand profile. tionships with department and specialty Salesperson Wanted Retailers on FOB Basis. Please send • Provide Creative Leadership - store chains. Competitive package. Established ladies’ sportswear company Resume/Inquires to: Direct the development of proposed Email resume to: Oded@Coolwear. com seeks dynamic sales professional to [email protected] designs, including boards, original of join the growing business team. Candi- prototype samples and other visuals. date must possess a minimum 5 years • Lead A Team - Provide leadership, experience in dealing with department management, motivation and devel- and specialty store buyers. Excellent Salespeople Needed opment of the staff through product Sales Assistant communication skills a must. Lucra- Dynamic territory salespeople needed category expertise. Entry level position, completing tive opportunity for the right person! in Los Angeles, Chicago & Georgia to • Manage - Develop and ensure adher- administrative tasks and resolving Please fax resume to 212-730-1846 or sell moderate, missy & plus size 2 pc ence to the Seasonal Time and issues pertaining to sales orders. E-mail: [email protected] sets & blouses. Experience w/ specialty Action Calendar. Knowledge of ladies wear market a shops & department stores - strong ac- • Communicate - Communicate to plus. Must have excellent organizational count list. Travel req’d. Great oppty! Senior Management merchandise skills, ability to multi-task and work in Please contact Eli/Isaac: 212-819-9269 trend and business strategies. a fast past environment. Excellent or Fax resume: 212-226-5324 • Execute - Responsible for identifying written and verbal communication TEXTILES/GARMENTS and executing opportunities for skills. Proficient in Microsoft Word, Leading suppliers of woven textiles process improvement. Excel, and Outlook. Fax resume w/ salary with exploding garment business is E-mail resume and salary req’s to: history to: Attn. Sales LH 201-854-4834 searching for that special person who is [email protected] knowledgeable & has strong under- standing in both areas. Accustomed to six figure earnings. Excellent benefits. Fax resume to: (212) 245-7615 Sales Exec/Merchandiser Leading 7th Ave evening wear company WEST COAST SALES REP www.kellyskids.com seeks experienced sales executive / merchandiser to launch sportswear Exp’d for growing California designer Children’s wear company seeks division. Must have better specialty jewelry co. with est’d recognition factor Spec/Patternmaker for Freelance store / major store contacts. among celebrities and upscale/trendy position. Minimum 5 years experience Please email resume to fashion industry. Product exp. preferred in children’s wear. E-mail resume to: [email protected] but not required. Phone: (818) 216-8841 [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Global Runway

WWDFAST Issue Date: June 29 Close Date: May 25

Only WWD has the global reach and industry access to deliver a magazine as authoritative and fashion-forward as WWDFAST.Covering sportswear, denim, footwear and beauty,the upcoming issue delivers the latest trends, products and statistics to retailers—at least six months before this information is available anywhere else. Don’t miss your chance to advertise and reach more than 20,000 top international retail decision-makers and 42,000 U.S. retailers and manufacturers.

Bonus Distribution: Bread and Butter (Berlin and Barcelona), MAGIC, Project New York, Who’s Next and Pitti Uomo

For more information on advertising in this special issue, contact Gus Floris, associate publisher, New York at 212-630-4636; Deborah Levy, senior account manager, West Coast at 323-951-1803; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director, Paris at 311-4451-1303; Elena DeGiuli, account executive, Milan at 3902-655-84-223; or your WWD sales representative WWDMediaWorldwide®