sign in sign up
<<
Home , Agathonisi, Agios Efstratios, Agios Kirykos, Alonnisos, Armathia, Artemis (island)

594594 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Akrotiri Peninsula 292 Ancient 181-2, 180 Alalkomenes 511 Ancient 131 Alexander the Great 532 Ancient Ialysos 328 Aliki 189 Ancient Kamiros 329 Alinda 376-7 Ancient Lato 306 Allou Fun Park & Kidom 97 Ancient Palekastro 309 465-71, 466, 12 Ancient 224 206-10, 207 Ancient 309 AMP 86 Asklipieion 362 226-8, 227 73-4 Analipsi 367 Eretria 452 Anavatos 414 Evpalinos Tunnel 403 A Ancient Agora () 75-6, 76 Gortyna 274 accommodation 16, 564-6, see Ancient Akrotiri 224 Gournia 306 also individual locations Ancient 162 Hephaistia 436 children, travel with 55 Ancient Delos 181-2, 180 House of 512 costs 565 Ancient Eleusis 131 Ireon 406-7 language 581-2 Ancient Ialysos 328 Keramikos 77 (Athens) 68-74, 68, 7, 70, Ancient Kamiros 329 203 71, 531 Ancient Lato 306 Town 357 Acropolis of Agios Andreas 18 Ancient Palekastro 309 Mikro Horio 349 Acropolis of 326-7 Ancient Thira 224 Palace of 268-73, 268, 13, activities 50-3, see also individual Ancient Zakros 309 270, 271 activities Andartis – Partisan of Peace 281 Palamari 476 Adamas 242-4 Paleokastro 353 Andros 158-62, 159 Aegiali 209-10 Panathenaic Stadium 80 Anemospilia 273 137-41 72-3 Angistri 141-2 Aegina Town 138-40, 139 Phaestos 269 animals 559-60, see also individual Agamemnon 83 species Poliohni 436 385-6, 386 endangered species 468, 476, 517, Ramnous 132 Agia Galini 284 559-60 Sanctuary of the Great Gods Agia Irini 255 Ano Meria 241 439-40 Agia Marina () 341 Anogia 279-80 Skarkos 212 Agia Marina () 373-5 Anopoli 295-6 Terrace of the Lions 182 Agia Pelagia 522 Antikythira 523, 519 443 Agia Roumeli 293-4 189-91, 182-3 Tower of the Winds 76 underwater artefacts 51 Agia Triada 269 Antipaxi 495, 492 architecture 547-9 436-7 Aphrodite Bathing 318 area codes 15 (Agathonisi) 386 Apiranthos 200 Areopagus Hill 91 Agios Georgios ( Plateau) Apollo 306, 334 301-2 Apollonas 200 503-6, 504 Agios Giorgos Kastro 506 Apollonia 247-8 Arhanes 273 Agios Kirykos 390-2 aquariums Arkasa 337 302-5, 303 Cretaquarium 268 Arki 385 Agios Pavlos 283-4 Town 320-1 Armenistis 396-7 Agios Stavros 205 Aradena 295 Armeos 371 air travel archaeological sites, see also Roman art galleries, see museums & airlines 573-4 ruins, temples, tombs galleries Artemis 334 airports 573 Acropolis (Athens) 68-74, 68, 7, internet resources 33 70, 71, 531 arts festivals 19, 543-5 tickets 574 Acropolis of Agios Andreas 18 Art-Athina 86 to/from Athens 120 Acropolis of Lindos 326-7 Athens Biennial 86 to/from 573-4 Agia Irini 255 Axia Festival 199 within Greece 575-6 Agia Triada 269 Epidavros Festival 96 Alyki 447 Hellenic Festival 96 Ancient Agora (Athens) 75-6, 76 Iraklio Summer Festival 264 000 Map pages Ancient Akrotiri 224 Lato Cultural Festival 303 000 Photo pages Ancient Andros 162 ReMap 86 INDEX A-C 595 literature fortresses kayaking see also see see see also see Agios Giorgos Kastro 506 Kastro Giorgos Agios 189 Antiparos 199 Castle Bazeos Bourtzi 455 427 Castle Byzantine-Genoese 456 Rosso Castello 326 Faraklos of Castle 403-4 Logothetis Lykourgos of Castle customs regulations 566 regulations customs 578 driving licences 578-9 hire insurance 579-80 rules road Athens 121 to/from within Athens 122 art 543 the 247 , 559 flora 560 555, 553, food 541 536, 532, history 465 trails walking Athens 120-1 to/from 575 Greece to/from 123 122, Athens within 577-8 within Greece 547-8 architecture art 544 457 Skiathos 462 445 Thasos C Cape Gero Angeli 215 Angeli Cape Gero 330 Cape 130 Cape Sounion 140-1 Christos Capralos, 578-80 15, travel car 473 276, 21, season carnival 83 the 74, , 456 Rosso Castello castles, camping 564 camping canoeing, border crossings 574-5 crossings border 534 152, Laskarina Bouboulina, Bourtzi 455 Bourtzi Islet 457 86 Breeder 476 471, Rupert Brooke, 14-15 budgeting 295 jumping 96, bungee 577-8 575, bus travel 566 hours business Butrint 483 531 empire Byzantine Bonelli’s eagles 349, 559 349, eagles Bonelli’s 379 377, Revelations Book of 527, books boat boat see also see , 12 boat travel, travel, boat cycling, mountain mountain cycling, 10 wars see see also individual species individual also see see also see see also see 240, 467, 468, 468, 467, 240, biking trips, cruising, island hopping, island hopping, cruising, trips, yachting sailing, cruising, island hopping, sailing, sailing, island hopping, cruising, yachting Battle of Marathon 314 Marathon Battle of 532 Navarino Battle of 72 Plataea Battle of 460 Kastro Lesvos 236 471 445 Thasos 349 193 Naxos 187 184, 281 275 203 Schinousa internet resources 32, 42, 43 42, 32, resources internet 577 575, Greece to/from 406 to/from 576-7 within Greece Islet 340 490 483-4, 455 Evia 311 (Hrysi) Gaïdouronisi 301 Peninsula 231 () Ithaki 510 338 204 Koufonissia 521 498-9 Lesvos 427 434 Limnos 383 Lipsi 209 Little Cyclades 243 173 Alonnisos of National Marine Park B bailout 67, 538 67, bailout 533-4 Wars Balkan 117 basketball 571 bathrooms battles, 160 Batsi 517 Laganas of Bay 234-7 beaches 264 Bembo Fountain 86 Bernier-Eliades 69 Beulé Gate travel, bicycle 85 Bios 559, birds 559 birdwatching 576-7, travel boat boat trips, trips, boat 78-9 78-9 72 106 102 88-9 88-9 88-9 94 64-5 364 123 102 104 132 78-9 2 72 112-13, 112-13, Arts Festival 97 Festival Arts Thisio 100, 107-8, 111, 113, 113, 111, 107-8, Thisio 100, 120 information tourist 93-6 tours 62 seasons travel 120-1 to/from travel within 127 travel 94-5, tour walking Rouf 109 Rouf shopping 117-18 67-93 sights 111, 105-7, 98-100, Syntagma Omonia 101, 109-10, 113, 113, 109-10, 101, Omonia 110-11 103-4, Pangrati 112, 111, 105-7, 98-100, Plaka planning 62 122 91-2, Syntagmatos Plateia 112, 108, 100, Psyrri Koukaki 101-3, 110 101-3, Koukaki 113, 110, 101-3, Makrygianni system metro 113, 111, 107-8, 100, Monastiraki highlights 64-5 highlights 119 98, resources internet 66 itineraries 77, Keramikos 112, 110-11, 103-4, Kolonaki food 62, 105-11 62, food 109, Gazi 101, children, travel with 97 travel children, 62 climate drinking 111-13 113-17 entertainment 113, 109-10, 101, Exarhia accommodation 62, 98-105 62, accommodation 93 activities Akropoli Synch Electronic Music & Digital & Digital Music Electronic Synch Zoological Park 97 Park Zoological Attica 471 seagulls Audouin’s 97 22, Moon Festival August 318-19 the Knights of Avenue 521 Athens Academy Academy 82 Athens 91 observatory Athens 92 Olympic Complex Athens 82 University Athens 86 Athinais 569 17, ATMs 475-6 Atsitsa 130-4, Attica Astypalea 363-7, 363-7, Astypalea 71 70, 69, 68, 63, Athena 62-124, 57, Athens Asclepion 75 Asclepion 334 Asclepius 362 Asklipieion 508, Assos 596 castles continued churches & cathedrals courses Castle of Monolithos 329 Agios Ioannis sto Kastri 464 cooking 46, 226, 273, 416, 473 Castle of Myrina 434 Agios Ioannis Theologos 382 language 93 Castle of the Knights 357 Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 82 marine environmental Hora (Folegandros) 231 Chapel of Theoskepasti 395 awareness 189 Castle 329 of Agii Theodori 81-2 painting 468 Paleohora () 297 Church of Agios Eleftherios 81 pottery 416, 473 Pandeli Castle 373 Church of Agios Nikolaos 285 reiki 472-3 INDEX Skala (Astypalea) 364-5 Church of Agios Spyridon 483 yoga 468, 473 catacombs 244 Church of Agios Spyridonas 401 credit cards 17 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Church of Agios Therapon 422 Cretaquarium 268 C-D caves & caving Church of Dionysios 515 Crete 58, 256-311, 258 Bekiris Cave 155 Church of Kapnikarea 81 accommodation 256 Cave of Antiparos 190 Church of Metamorfosis tou climate 256 Cave of Philoctetes 436 Sotiros 419 food 256, 555 Cave of the Apocalypse 379 Church of Sotira Lykodimou 82 highlights 258-9 Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Church of the Holy Apostles 76 island hopping 33 Giannis 202 Church of the Taxiarhes 416 itineraries 26 Cave of 198 Monastery of Kimisis Theotokou travel seasons 256 Dikteon Cave 302 418-19 cruising 38-44, see also boat travel, Drogarati Cave 507 Drosiani 199 boat trips, island hopping, sailing, Ellinokamara Caves 341 Panagia Ekatondapyliani 184 yachting Harkadio Cave 348 Panagia Hrysospiliotissa 75 internet resources 41, 42, 43 Ideon Cave 281 St John of the Collachio 319 , the 531 371 cinema 526 culture 238, 539-42 Kefallonia 503 Athens 116, 117 currency 14 Koutouki Cave 134 film festival 97 customs regulations 566 Lehousa 471 civil war 535 Cyclades 58, 156-255, 157 Melissani Cave 507, 240 Classical age 530 accommodation 156 cell phones 15, 570-1 96, 116 architecture 548 cemeteries, see also tombs cliff diving 372 books 247 ancient Roman cemetery 184 climate 14, 21-3, see also individual climate 156 regions Athens’ First Cemetery 92 food 156 climate change 561, 573 East Moudros Military Cemetery 436 highlights 157 clothing 16 English Cemetery 483 island hopping 33, 36 coffee 554 Keramikos 77 travel seasons 156 Colossus of Rhodes 314, 334 Krithoni war cemetery 376 Cycladic civilisation 528 comedy (theatre) 546 Mycenaean cemetery 207 cycling 53, 576, see also mountain conservation, see also environmental biking Portianos War Cemetery 436 issues Crete 301 Rupert Brooke’s Grave Earth Sea & Sky 572 Kefallonia 503 Samothraki necropolis 440 Hellenic Society for the Study & Kos 357 ceramics, see pottery Protection of the Monk Seal 468 Rhodes 328 Chalepas, Yannoulis 164 Hellenic Wildlife Hospital 141 155 changing of the guard ceremony 92 National Marine Park of Cyclops 249 chapels, see churches & cathedrals 517 Cyprus issue 537 cheese 554, 556 consulates 567 children, travel with 54-6 convents, see monasteries & accommodation 55 convents D Athens 97 cooking courses 46, 226, 273, 416, 473 dance 550-2, 9 food 557 Corfu 479-92, 480 Athens 116 Hania 289 Corfu Town 482-8, 484, 11 folk dancing 116, 295, 303, 551 planning 54-6 costs International Dance Festival 97 409-17, 411 accommodation 565 dangers, see safe travel Chios Town 410-14, 412 car hire 578-9 Daskalopetra 414 cruising 41 Decumanus Maximus 357-8 food 46 deforestation 561 000 Map pages island hopping 31 Delos 179-82, 180 000 Photo pages motorcycle & scooter hire 579 desalination plant 202 INDEX D-F 597 see see boat travel, boat boat travel, boat see 9 music festival 472 music festival sporting events Festival 97 Festival 92 trips, cruising, island hopping cruising, trips, also Waters) 21 Waters) 22 (St George) 391 Cultures between 429 Festival Axia Festival 199 Festival Axia 138 Fest Fistiki Aegina 153 Armata 86 Art-Athina Biennial 86 Athens 96 Festival Athens Film International Athens 97 22, Moon Festival August 473 276, 21, season carnival ceremony guard the changing of 391 Festival Theatre Dionysos 21-2, Easter Epidavros Festival 96 Festival Epidavros the of (Blessing Epiphany 97 Jazz Festival European 97 Music Day European 455 Festival & Cultural Wine Evia (St Basil) 21 Vasilios Agios of Feast 22 Baptist John the St of Feast 23 Assumption the of Feast Georgios Agios of Festival 391 Music Festival Frikaria 557 food 96 22, Hellenic Festival Dialogue for Festival Icarus 21 Day Independence 97 Festival Dance International Women’s Eressos International 264 Festival Summer Iraklio 303 Festival Cultural Lato 383 wine festival Lipsi 303 Marine Week 22 Day May 146 Miaoulia Festival 244 Festival Milos 438 gatherings motorcycle 96 July Festival Musical 22 Week Navy 199 Festival Naxos 23 Day Ohi (No) 383 Harou tou Panagia 97 Festival Petras 443 Festival Thasos Philippi 86 ReMap rembetika Faltaïts, Manos 472 Manos Faltaïts, 21 (St Basil) Vasilios Agios of Feast 22 John the Baptist St of Feast 23 Assumption the of Feast travel, ferry 21-3, & events festivals 168 9 234 450 conservation festivals & events, literary literary & events, festivals 551 see events, sporting events events, 289, 299 289, 559-60 also see eating 17 eating 527 48-9, food 570 17, photography 17 worship of places Athens 119 Athens 584 language accommodation 449 accommodation 449 climate 449 food 450 highlights island hopping 36 449 seasons travel F E Falasarna 300, 300, Falasarna 559 471, 349, 348, falcons etiquette 527 etiquette 511 Eumaeus Arthur 268 Evans, 392-4 events, 451-6, 59, Evia E4 European long-distance path path long-distance E4 European 559 349, eagles 561 542, 21-2, Easter 538 526-7, economy 428 Beach Eftalou 544 263, 85-6, El Greco 298 electricity 567 131 Elefsina 559 471, 348, falcons Eleonora’s Elounda 305 567 embassies 329 Embonas 415 Emboreios () 331-2 Emborios 372 (Kalymnos) Emborios 355 () Emborios 15 services emergency 517, 476, 468, species endangered entehna 573, 561, 527, issues environmental 21 Waters) the of (Blessing Epiphany 326 Piges Epta 73-4 Erechtheion 452 Eretria 490 Ermones 168-70, Evpalinos Tunnel 403 Tunnel Evpalinos 15 rates exchange 165 Exobourgo 313 snorkelling 206 car travel car see also see 198 see 467-8 Alonnisos 467 Alonnisos 48 ouzo wine 557 kitron Amorgos 209 Amorgos 189-90 Antiparos 93 Athens 372 competition cliff-diving 488 Corfu 369 Diving Festival 451 Evia 240 147, 212 369 Kalymnos 147 Kapari 499 Lefkada 51 matters legal 243 Milos 178-9 Mykonos Alonnisos of National Marine Park 189 Paros Plakias 281 321 Town Rhodes 405 460 Skiathos 369 diving 18, sponge 445 Thasos accommodation 312 accommodation 312 climate 312 food 313 highlights island hopping 36 26 itineraries 312 seasons travel 147 Kapari of National Marine Park 462 Skopelos driving, driving, Dorian people 529 Dorian 546 (theatre) drama 568 drinking water 557 drinks 579 578, driving licences 569 drugs 488 Gerald Durrell, 488 Lawrence Durrell, DVDs 565 desserts 556 desserts 338 Diafani Dio Adelphi 471 77 Gate Dipylon with 571 travellers disabilities, diving 50, 312-86, 58, dolphin watching 560 dolphin watching domatia 564-5 205-6, 598 festivals & events continued Fountain of Arethousa 511 Gramvousa Peninsula 300-1 Renaissance Festival 276 Fourni 273 grand promenade (Athens) 75 Rockwave Festival 96 Fourni 389, 397-9, 390 ‘Great Idea’ campaign 533 carnival 473 295 116 Synch Electronic Music & Digital frescoes 544, 547 555-6, 20 Arts Festival 97 Agia Panagia 511 Vyronas Festival 97 Church of Dionysios 515 H feta 556 Church of Panagia Kera 306

INDEX Hadrian’s Arch 80 films, see cinema Church of St Giorgios Diasorites Hadrian’s Library 77 Filopappou Hill 91 198 Halki (Dodecanese) 330-2, 331 Finiki 337 Church of the Holy Apostles 76

F-H Halki (Naxos) 198-9 Fira 217-23, 218 Iraklio Archaeological Museum Halkida 451-2 fishing 275 262 Halkidian alphabet 455 508-9, 233 Moni Kaisarianis 92 handicrafts 118, 177, 424, 474 flora 560-1 Moni Kounistras 460 Hania 285-92, 286, 12 Folegandros 229-41, 230 Moni Tharri 329 health 567-8 folk dancing 116, 295, 303, 551 National Archaeological Museum 83 Helios 334 food 20, 45-9, 553-7, 11, see also 77, 92 individual locations Palace of Knossos 262, 272, 13, 270, 271 Hellenic Festival 22 books 553, 555, 560 Pandeli Castle 373 Hellenic Wildlife Hospital 141 cheese 554, 556 Fry 340-1 Hephaestus 436 children, travel with 557 Hephaistia 436 costs 46 , see Iraklio Crete 555 G Herodotus 63, 530, 545 cruising 43 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 311 hiking 50, 51-2, see also walking desserts 556 Gaïos 493 Alonnisos 467 etiquette 17 Gaitis, Yiannis 212 Amorgos 209 festivals 45, 557 Galissas 170 E4 European long-distance path feta 556 galleries, see museums & galleries 289, 299 Greek salad 555-6, 20 gardens, see parks & gardens Evia 452-3, 455, 456 grills 554 298-9 395 language 582-3 Gavrio 159-60 Ithaki 511, 512 mayirefta 554 gay travellers 567 Kalymnos 369, 371 mezedhes 45 Athens 115 Karpathos 240 oil 553 festivals 429 Kefallonia 503 seafood 555 Mykonos 177 Kythira 521 tavernas 47-8 Gennadi 329-30 Lesvos 431 tyropita 469 geography 558 Melinda–Paleohori trail 431 vegetarian 557 Gialos 345-7 Naxos 198 forest fires 561 470 Paleohora–Sougia 299 fortresses, see also castles Glaucos 334 Paleohori–Rahidi trail 431 architecture 548 Glossa 464 419 Exobourgo 165 Glyfada 93 Rethymno 276 Fortress of Agia Mavra 497 gods 63, 69, 73, 439, see also Rouvas Gorge 273 Hania 285 individual gods, mythology Samaria Gorge 293-4, 10 Hora (Andros) 161-2 golf 488 Samothraki 240, 240 264 gorges Skiathos 460 Mytilini Town 421 Aradena Gorge 295 Skopelos 462 Naxos 184 Dimosari Gorge 456 Thasos 445, 446 Neo Frourio 482-3 Gorge 296 Zakros Gorge 309 Palaio Frourio 482 Kourtaliotiko Gorge 283 Hill of the Pnyx 91 Ramnous 133 Rouvas Gorge 273 Hippocrates 334, 355 Rethymno 275 Samaria Gorge 293-4, 10 Hippocrates Plane Tree 357 Volissos 415 Theriso Gorge 292 Valley of the Dead 309 history 528-38 Zakros Gorge 309 Alexander the Great 532 Balkan Wars 533-4 000 Map pages Gortyna 274 books 532, 535, 536, 541 000 Photo pages Gournia 306 531 INDEX H-K 599 , 342 270 , 13 235 , 235 333 358 253 502 268 , 519 251 339 242 356 198 537 271 Karpathos 240 Karpathos 330 Rhodes Alonnisos 467 Alonnisos 503 240, Kefallonia 499 Lefkada 243 Milos Kamari (Kos) 363 Kamari (Kos) 225 Kamari () 438 Kamariotissa 394-5 Kambos 414 Kampos 419 418, Kostantimos Kanaris, 147 Kapari 521 Kapsali 536, Konstandinos Karamanlis, 397 231 Karavostasis 165 Kardiani 332-9, Karpathos 251-2, 251-2, Kythnos Kionia 165 299-300 -Kastelli 51 kitesurfing kitron Klima 245 317-19 Quarter Knights’ 268-73, Knossos 296 Komitades 253-4 Korissia 355-63, Kos 357-61, Town Kos 203-5 Krithoni 376-7 306-7 453 Kymi 470 Panagia Kyra 518-23, Kythira Kassiopi 488 Kassiopi 341-3, (Megisti) 248 () Kastro 207-8 Katapola 309-10 Zakros Kato 522 Bridge Katouni kayaking 545 273, Nikos Kazantzakis, 253-5, (Tzia) Lion 255 Kea 501-9, Kefallonia 363, 234, Bay Kefalos 77 Keramikos Keros 203 245, Karya 500 Karya 455 Karystos 339-41, Kasos

478 see also see , 235 , 34 390 368 502 262 211 the 529 Athens 66 Athens cruising 40 car 579 car 568 health 579 motorcycle 568 travel 33 air travel 119 98, Athens 43 42, travel boat 42 41, cruising 40, history 528 479 33 island hopping 32, 137 Gulf Islands Saronic boat travel, boat trips, cruising, cruising, trips, boat travel, boat locations individual accommodation 477 accommodation 477 climate 477 seasons climate 477 food 478 highlights 479 resources internet island hopping 36 K J I Kaiser’s Throne Throne 490 Kaiser’s Kalami 488 Thermi Kalithea 326 367-72, Kalymnos 246-7 Kamares Ireon 406-7 Ireon 293 Gates Iron island hopping 29-37, 24-8 itineraries 521 Itra 560 jackals 115 jazz 97, Ioulida 254-5 201-2 Iraklia 261-7, Iraklio 310-11 Ierapetra 389-97, 234, Ikaria Iliad, 296 Imbros 573 571-2, immigration 21 Day Independence 295-6 Inner 417-18 Inousses 568 insurance 568 access internet 15 resources internet 477-523, Ionian Islands 59, Ios 210-15, 210-15, Ios Ithaki 509-12, Ithaki 509-12, 238 , 174 thermal baths 148 194 11 , 236 529 145 see also also see Corfu 488 Corfu 193 Naxos 187 Paros 445 Thasos 392 Lefkada 428 Eftalou Baths of Mineral 431, Polyhnitos Radioactive Springs 390 Springs Radioactive 361-2 Therma Loutra birthplace 415 birthplace 215 grave Homer 512 of House chair 414 stone 512 511, sites of tours civil war 535 war civil 535-6 coup colonels’ 530 age Classical the 531 Crusades, 528 civilisation Cycladic 537 Cyprus issue 535-6 democracy 529 people Dorian 533 campaign Idea’ ‘Great 528 resources internet 529 civilisation Minoan 529 civilisation Mycenaean 533 monarchy 537 530, Olympic Games 531-2 era Ottoman 530-1 era Roman 530 Sparta the 532 Venetians, 532 Independence of War WWI 534-5 WWII 535 Hora (Naxos) 192-7, 192-7, (Naxos) Hora 380-1 () Hora 438-9 (Samothraki) Hora 250-1 () Hora 163-5 () Hora 294 Sfakion Hora riding horse hot springs, Hydra Town 146-50, 146-50, Town Hydra House of Europa 357 Europa of House 452 Mosaics of House 145-51, Hydra Hora (Amorgos) 208-9 (Amorgos) Hora 160-2 (Andros) Hora 364-6 (Astypalea) Hora 231-2 (Folegandros) Hora 211-15 (Ios) Hora 520-1 (Kythira) Hora 172-8, (Mykonos) Hora hitching 580 hitching 570 holidays 545, Homer 529, 600 L Loutra (Therma) 440-1 mobile phones 15, 570-1 Ladiko Beach 326 Loutra Edipsou 453-4 Mohlos 307 Lady of Kalymnon 84 Loutraki 464 Molos 474-5 Lahania 330 295 Molyvos 426-8 laïka 551 Lykavittos Hill 90-1 Mon Repos Estate 483 lakes monasteries & convents Lake Korission 491 M Convent of Galataki 454 Lake Marathon 133 Holy Monastery of Zoodohos

INDEX Macedonia 538 Pigi 381 Limni Vouliagmenis 93 Magazia () 494 Monastery of St John Sacred Lake 182 Magazia (Skyros) 474-5 the Theologian 380-1, 238 Lakka 494

L-M Malia 269 Monastery of the Apocalypse Lakki 375-6 Maltezana 367 381 Lambrou, George 475 Mamma Mia! 461, 464 Moni Agiou Gerasimou 506 Langada 210 mandinadhes 550 Moni Agiou Ioanni 332 language 16, 581-7 Mandraki 352-4 Moni Arhangelou 447 courses 93 Manolas 226 Moni Arkadiou 279 301-2 426 Moni Evangelistrias 460, 464-5 Lavrio 130 maps 569 Moni Hozoviotissis 209 Laws of Gortyna 274 Marathi 385 Moni Kaisarianis 92 Lefkada 495-500, 496, 234 Marathon 131-3 Moni Metamorfosis Sotiros 465 Lefkada Town 497-8 marble quarries 198 Moni Panagias Kounistras 460 Lefkes 188 Maries 445 Moni Panagias Spilianis 404 Lefkos 337-8 markets 20 Moni Preveli 283 legal matters 568-9 Athens 117 Moni Prodromou 465 Lehousa 471 food 45 Moni Skiadi 330 Leros 372-7, 374 Iraklio 266 Moni Taxiarhon 426 lesbian travellers Marmari 366-7 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti Athens 115 Mask of Agamemnon 83 347-8 festivals 429 Masouri 371 Moni Tharri 329 Mykonos 177 Mastihari 362 Moni Theoktistis 395 Lesvos 420-32, 422, 12, 236 Matala 273-4 Moni Theotokou 490 lifestyle 539 May Day 22 Moni Toplou 308 Limni Vouliagmenis 93 mayirefta 554 Moni Varvaras 465 Limnos 432-6, 433 measures 565 Moni Ypsilou 429 Linaria 475 medical services 567-8 Nea Moni 414 Lindos 326-8 Athens 119-20 money 15, 17, 566, 569 Lipsi 382-5, 383 Corfu Town 487 monk seals 240, 467, 468 literary festivals Kos Town 361 Monument of Agrippa 69 Axia Festival 199 Hora (Mykonos) 178 Morosini Fountain 264 Corfu Reading Society 483 Rhodes Town 325 mosques Naxos Festival 199 Skiathos Town 459 Halkida 451 literature 545-6, see also books Mediterranean black shags 349 Mosque of Gazi Hassan Pasha Axia Festival 199 Mediterranean monk seals 240, 357 Corfu Reading Society 483 467, 468 Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 289 Naxos Festival 199 Megalo Horio 351 Mosque of Murad Reis 320 Little Cyclades 200-5, 200 500-1 Mosque of Süleyman 319 Livadi (Astypalea) 366 Megas Gialos 171 Neratzes Mosque 275 Livadi (Iraklia) 202 Megisti, see Kastellorizo motorcycle travel 578-80 Livadi (Serifos) 249-50 Menetes 336-7 driving licences 579 Livadia 349-51 Merihas 252 insurance 579 loggerhead turtles 517, 560 Mesta 415-16 motorcycle gatherings 438 Loggos 493-4 mezedhes 45 road rules 579-80 Loutra (Kythnos) 252 mihanikos 551 Moudros 436 Mikro Horio 349 mountain biking, see also cycling Milia Mountain Retreat 293 Corfu 488 Milos 241-5, 242 International Mountain-Biking 000 Map pages Minerva, see Athena Race 445 000 Photo pages Minoan civilisation 529 Skopelos 462 INDEX M-N 601 see see 238 , 3 424 12 , 192 172 parks & gardens parks Alonnisos 467, 467, Alonnisos Art 86 429 Forest Petrified Lesvos 126 422-3 & Music 85 Arts Fine Zakynthos 517 Zakynthos also Moni 141 131 National Park Mt Parnitha of National Marine Park National Art Gallery 85-6 Gallery Art National 87 Museum Historical National Contemporary of Museum National Gallery 86 National the of Museum History Natural 285 Museum Naval 288 Moro Neorio tou 422 Museum Archaeological New 273 Museum Kazantzakis Nikos 87 Numismatic Museum 74 Museum Acropolis Old 85 18, Centre Cultural Onassis Gallery 381 Patmos Museum Archaeological 446 Museum Vagis Polygnotos 86 Camhi Gallery Rebecca Mansion 515 Romas Six DOGS 85 85 Taf 85 Museums Theophilos & Teriade the for Foundation Theocharakis 430 Museum Ouzo Varvagianni 355 Museum Volcanological 134 Museum Vorres 90 (Athens) Museum War (Krithoni) 376 Museum War 472 391, 276, 97, 96, festivals shopping 118 National Marine Park of National Marine Park N 226 Nea 482-3 Neo Frourio Mylopotamos 521 Mylopotamos 211-15 Mylopotas Myrina 433-5 371 Myrties 508 Myrtos 545 334, mythology 421-5, Mytilini Town 187-8 Naousa 82 National Library 559, & reserves national parks music 20, 550-2 music 20, 319 Muslim Library 171-9, Mykonos Naxos 191-200, 191-200, Naxos Icons 497 Icons 193 Museum 401 288 Museum 467 87 Tools 261-3 165 Halepas 87 Instruments 317-18 426 1922 of Refugees 87 Ceramics 83 Collection of Post-Byzantine Post-Byzantine of Collection 483 Philharmonic Society Corfu 164 Tinos of Foundation Cultural Venetian Rocca-Barozzi Della Museum (Byzantine) Ecclesiastical & Residence Venizelos Eleftherios 87 Museum Epigraphical 411-12 Museum Argentis Filippos Gallery 199 Fish & Olive the Northern of Museum Folklore 212 Museum Gaitis-Simosi 412 Museum Palace Giustiniani 87 Art Museum Folk Greek Man & Art Museum: Folk Greek 97 Museum Hellenic Children’s 126 86 Museum Herakleidon 263-4 Crete of Museum Historical Museum Archaeological Iraklio 87 Museum Jewish 320 Museum Jewish 86-7 Museum Kanellopoulos 472 Museum Folk Faltaïts Manos 87 Maria Callas Museum 288 Crete of Maritime Museum 192-3 Museum Mitropolis Art Gallery 482 Municipal Yannoulis of House Museum 500 Maria Koutsochero Museum 318 Archaeology of Museum Museum Art Asian of 482 Art 161 Contemporary of Museum 275 Ethnology Cretan of Museum Art 84-5 Cycladic of Museum Art 97 Children’s Greek of Museum Popular Greek of Museum Art 84 Islamic of Museum 165 18, Marble Crafts of Museum Art 317 Modern Greek of Museum 483 Palaeopolis of Museum 218 Thera Prehistoric of Museum 515 Solomos of Museum Arts the Decorative of Museum 126 the Electric Railway of Museum the of the Memorial of Museum Greek Traditional of Museum Museum National Archaeological Town) 483 Town) 357 Town) 434 421-2 Town) 369 365 443 401 452 77 Keramikos 299-300 Kissamos Hania 288 of Collection Dirfys Refuge 452-3 Refuge Dirfys 447 Shelter Mountain Ypsario 289 Mountains Ori Lefka 452-3 Mt Dirfys Mt Ohi 456 488 Mt Pantokrator 93 Mt Parnassos 131 Mt Parnitha Ilias 338 Mt Profitis 280-1 Mt Psiloritis 446 Mt Ypsario 198 Mt Zeus 82-3 Museum Acropolis 173 Maritime Museum Aegean 86 AMP 483 Museum Antivouniotissa 310 Collection Archaeological (Corfu Museum Archaeological (Hania) 285 Museum Archaeological (Kos Museum Archaeological (Myrina) Museum Archaeological (Mytilini Museum Archaeological () Museum Archaeological () 307 Museum Archaeological (Skala) Museum Archaeological (Thasos) Museum Archaeological (Vathy) Museum Archaeological Eretria of Museum Archaeological of Museum Archaeological of Museum Archaeological 224 Art Space 86 Athinais 328 Bee Museum 84 86 Bernier-Eliades 85 Bios 152 Museum Bouboulina’s 86 Breeder 85 Museum & Christian Byzantine Byzantine & Post Byzantine 87 Tradition Art & Folk of Centre Art 317 Modern of Centre 140-1 Museum Capralos Christos 87 Museum Athens City of mountain refuges 565 refuges mountain mountaineering mountains & galleries museums 602 Neorio tou Moro 288 Paleohora (Aegina) 140 Plaka (Milos) 244 newspapers 565 Paleohora (Crete) 296-8 Plakias 281-2 Nida Plateau 280 Paleokastritsa 490 Planetarium 92-3 Nikea 355 Paleokastro (Kastellorizo) 343 planning, see also individual regions 550 Paleokastro (Kimolos) 245 accommodation 16 Nisyros 351-5, 352 Paleokastro (Leros) 376 activities 50-3 northeastern 58, Paleokastro (Nisyros) 353 budgeting 14 387-448, 388 Paleopoli 162 calendar of events 21-3 INDEX accommodation 387 Pali 355 children, travel with 54-6 climate 387 Palia Kameni 226 food 45-9 food 387 Peninsula 506-7 island hopping 29-37 N-R highlights 388 Panagia Drosiani 199 itineraries 24-8 island hopping 36-7 Panagia Ekatondapyliani 184 repeat visitors 18 travel seasons 387 Panagia Hrysospiliotissa 75 travel seasons 14, 30 Panathenaic Procession 74 weather 14 O Panathenaic Stadium 80 Platanos 373-5 75 Panathenaic Way 72 Plessas, Angelo 86 490, 509, 511 Pandeli 375 430 , the 511, 529, 545 Papademos, Lucas 538 Poliohni 436 Ogygia 334 Papadopoulos, Georgios 536 politics 526-7, 537-8 Ohi (No) Day 23 Papandreou, Andreas 536, 537 Pollonia 245 Oia 223-4, 237 Papandreou, George 538 Polyhnitos 431, 236 Old Agia Roumeli 293 Papandreou, Georgios 535-6 Polyrrinia 299 olive oil 553 Paralia Kymis 453 Polyvotis 354 Olymbos 338-9 Parian Chronicle 184 population 526, 527 Olympic Games Parikia 184-7, 185 142-5, 144 Athens Olympic Complex 92 parks & gardens, see also national Poros Town 143-4 parks & reserves Panathenaic Stadium 80 Porto 165 Mon Repos Estate 483 Onassis Cultural Centre 18, 85 post 565 National Gardens 91 opening hours 566 Potamos (Antikythira) 523 Zappeio Gardens 91 opera 116 Potamos (Kythira) 521-2 Parliament 92 Ormos 211-15 Pothia 368-70 Paros 182-9, 182 Ottoman era 531-2 pottery 543 Parthenon 72-3 ouzo 48 courses 416, 473 passports 571-2, 573 Giant Pithoi 270, 271 Patakos, Stylianos 536 Kamares pottery 263 P 467-9 Skyros 474, 13 painting courses 468 Patmos 377-8, 378 Preveli Beach 283, 9 palaces Paxi 492-4, 492, 236 Propylaia 69 Agia Triada 269 Peace & Friendship Stadium 117, 537 Psara 418-20 Ahillion Palace 489 Peania 134 471 Palace of Knossos 268-73, 268, 13, Pelikata Hill 511 270, 271 361, 356 Peloponnesian Wars 63, 530 Palace of Malia 269 Psili Ammos Beach 407 Perdika 141 Palace of St & St George Psyhro 302 482 peregrine falcons 349 public holidays 570 Palace of the Grand Masters 319 471 Pyrgi 415 Palace of Villiers de l’sle Adam 319 Petaloudes 329 Pyrgos 165 Phaestos 269 Petra 428 Pythagoras 408 Zakros Palace 309 Phaestos 269 Pythagorio 403-6, 404 Zappeio Palace 91 Phaestos Disk 263, 269 Palaio Frourio 482 phonecards 571 photography 569-70 R Palamari 476 Radioactive Springs 390 Piano Nobile 272 Palekastro 309 Rafina 127 Pigadia 334-6, 335 rafting, see kayaking Piosses 255 Rahoni 445 470 000 Map pages Ramnous 132 Piraeus 125-7, 124 raptors 420, 559 000 Photo pages Piso Livadi 189 INDEX R-S 603 diving 457 462 see also see 153 471 167 344 Tournament 391 Tournament 369 Race 445 450 Alonnisos 468 Alonnisos 240 Karpathos 503 Kefallonia 187 Naousa 289 Synagogue Hayyim Etz Halkida 451 320 accommodation 449 accommodation 449 climate 449 food 450 highlights island hopping 36 449 seasons travel 117 Marathon Athens 372 competition cliff-diving 369 Diving Festival 472 Half-Marathon Chess International Ikaria Climbing Festival International Mountain-Biking International Cup 22 World Speed Skiathos 456-60, 456-60, Skiathos soccer 117 soccer 296 Sougia 554 souvlaki Spetses 151-5, 166-71, Spetses Town 152-5 Town Spetses 155 Spetsopoula Spili 281 Island 306 369 diving 18, sponge 456-76, 449, the 59, Sporades, Skiathos Town 457-9 Town Skiathos 280 Observatory Skinakas 461-5, Skopelos 461-4 Town Skopelos 476 473, 236, horses Skyrian 471-6, Skyros 472-4 Town Skyros smoking 570 50, snorkelling sporting events John the Divine 379 St 293 Egypt St Maria of 72 Promachos Athena of Statue 354 Stefanos 452-3 Steni 75-6 Attalos of Stoa 75 Eumenes of Stoa 77 Tombs of Street surfing 51 343-8, 136 237 , 8 , diving 216 249 228 see 246 165 Gods 181 antiques 459 antiques 464 art 222, 488 475, 474, embroidery 474 177, 118, handicrafts 407 honey 381 325, iconography 361 Kalymnian sponges 584 language 266 117, markets music 118 474 199, pottery 474 sculpture wine 197 474 woodcarvings accommodation 135 accommodation 135 climate 135 food 136 highlights 137 resources internet island hopping 37 135 seasons travel Sanctuary of Apollo (Eretria) 452 Apollo (Eretria) of Sanctuary 133 Artemis of Sanctuary & of Sanctuary Gods 439-40 the Great of Sanctuary 436 the Kabeiroi of Sanctuary Gods 182 the Syrian of Sanctuary 199-200 Sangri 215-26, Santorini 228-9, 228-9, Sikinos Gabriella 212 Simosi, Sitia 307-8 Six DOGS 85 142 (Angistri) Skala 364-6 (Astypalea) Skala 378-80 (Patmos) Skala 429-30 Eresou Skala 329 Kamirou Skala 471 Skantzoura 212 Skarkos Shinias 133 shopping 20 Gods 182 the Egyptian Shrine to Great the Samothracian Shrine to Siana 329 245-9, Sifnos Sarakiniko 245 Sarakiniko 338 Saria 135-55, Gulf Islands 57, Saronic Schinousa 202-3 Schinousa diving, scuba 545 543-4, sculpture 555 seafood 471 seagulls 468 467, 240, seals 249-51, Serifos 239 , 9 , 320 240 , , archaeological archaeological 318 437 276 400 yachting 315 see also see national parks & parks national 551 archaeological sites, sites, archaeological see 556 see also see see 182 sites, temples, tombs temples, sites, Roman ruins Roman reserves Corfu 488 Corfu 457-8 Skiathos Syros 169 Athens 118 Athens 579 travel car with 55 travel children, 568 drinking water 568 hazards environmental 579 travel motorcycle 579 road 572 travellers women Amorgos 206 Amorgos 369 Climbing Festival International 371 369, Kalymnos 184 cemetery ancient Roman 244 catacombs Maximus 357-8 Decumanus Gortyna 274 Arch 80 Hadrian’s 77 Library Hadrian’s 76 (Athens) Agora Roman 81 Baths (Athens) Roman 464 Baths (Loutraki) Roman 337 cistern Roman 367 baths Roman Tallaras 76 Winds the of Tower S Samaria 293 Samaria 507-8 Sami 399-409, Samos Samothraki 437-41, 437-41, Samothraki Gods 181 the Foreign of Sanctuaries Apollo (Ancient Delos) of Sanctuary Sacred Gate 77 Gate Sacred 570 15, travel safe saganaki sailing, Rhodes 314-30, 314-30, Rhodes 317-26, Town Rhodes Rina 372 579-80 rules road climbing rock 76 Agora Roman Baths 81 Roman 530-1 era Roman ruins, Roman 273 Forest Rouvas ruins, reiki courses 472-3 courses reiki 542 527, religion rembetika reserves, Rethymno 274-9, 274-9, Rethymno 604 T Pallas 116 Tzantas, Ioannis 393 Taf 85 Theatre of Dionysos 74-5 Tzermiado 301 Tallaras Roman baths 367 Theologos 445 tavernas 47-8 Theriso 292 V taxis 580 Therma Loutra 361 vacations 570 Technopolis 85, 97 thermal baths, see also hot springs Vagis, Polygnotos 446 Islet 371-2 Kalithea Thermi 326 Vaï 308-9 telephone services 15, 570-1 Lesvos 431-2

INDEX Valley of the Butterflies 329 temples Loutra (Kythnos) 252 Valley of the Dead 309 Alyki 441 Loutra (Therma) 440 Vardinogiannis Bridge 295 Anemospilia 273 Loutra Edipsou 453

T-W Vasiliki 498-9 Panagia Hrysospiliotissa 75 Santorini (Thira) 226 Vatera 431 Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods Thirasia 226 Vathres rock pools 441 181 Tholaria 210 Vathy (Ithaki) 510-11 Sanctuary of Apollo (Ancient Tilos 348-51, 348 Vathy (Samos) 400-3, 402 Delos) 182 time 571 Vathypetro 273 Sanctuary of Apollo (Eretria) 452 Tinos 162-5, 163 Vathys 372 Sanctuary of Artemis 133 tipping 17, 43, 569 vegetarian travellers 557 Sanctuary of Poseidon & Titan Polyvotis 334 Amphitrite 165 Venus de Milo 241 Titans, the 334 Sanctuary of the Great Gods visas 15, 571-2 toilets 571 439-40 Volax 165 tombs, see also cemeteries Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 436 volcanoes Marathon Tomb 131 Shrine to the Egyptian Gods 182 Nisyros 354-5 Street of Tombs 77 Shrine to the Samothracian Great Santorini (Thira) 219 Gods 181 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 92 Volissos 415 Temple of Aphaia 140 tourism 526 volunteering 572 Temple of Apollo (Aegina Town) 138 tourist information 571 Vourkari 255 Temple of Artemis (Corfu) 483 tourist police 570 Vouvalis, Nickolas 369 Temple of Artemis (Leros) 377 tours 580, see also individual Vravrona 133 activities & destinations 18, 69, 72 Vromolithos 375 cycling 503 Temple of Demeter 199 Vrontados 414 ecotours 416 Temple of Dionysos (Lesvos) 431 Homeric sites 512 Temple of Hephaestus 76 sponge diving 18 W Temple of Nemesis 133 walking 93-4 waders 236, 420 Temple of Olympian Zeus 77 wine 219 walking 19, see also hiking Temple of Poseidon (Cape Around Skopelos 465 Sounion) 130-1 Tower of the Winds 76 Athens 96 Temple to Athena (Ancient Tragaea 198 Kamiros) 329 tragedy (theatre) 546 Lefkada 499 Plakias 281, 283 Temple to Athena (Ancient Lindos) train travel 574, 576, 580 327 to/from Athens 121 Sami 508 Terrace of the Lions 182 to/from Greece 576 walking tour 94-5, 94 Thasos 441-8, 442 within Athens 122, 123 wars, see also battles Balkan Wars 533-4 Thasos (Limenas) 442-4, 443 within Greece 580 civil war 535 theatre 546 travel to/from the Greek Islands Peloponnesian Wars 63, 530 theatres 573-5 War of Independence 532 Ancient Delos 181 travel within the Greek Islands WWI 534-5 ancient theatre (Thasos) 443 575-80 WWII 535 Dora Stratou Dance Theatre 116 travellers cheques 569 water, drinking 568 Epidavros 142 trekking, see hiking waterfalls Milos 244 Triopetra 283 Kythira 521 National Theatre 116 Trypiti 244 Lefkada 498 Odeon of Herodes Atticus 75 Tschumi, Bernard 82 Samos 408 Olympia Theatre 116 Turkish baths Athens 90 Vathres rock pools 441 Rhodes 319 waterskiing 51, 189, 212 weather 14, 21-3, see also individual 000 Map pages turtles 517, 560 regions 000 Photo pages tyropita 469 weights 565 INDEX W-Z 605 513 see also see sailing 514 X Y Z Xirokambos 376 Xirokambos 293 Xyloskalo 169, 43, yachting 512-18, Zakynthos 515-16, Town Zakynthos Zaros 273 529 281, Zeus zoos 97 yoga courses 468, 473 468, courses yoga 557 yoghurt , 7 , , 68 320 11 , 484 531 , 71 , 239 , 439 9 70 Iraklio 272 Iraklio 507 Kefallonia 329 Rhodes 219 (Thira) Santorini 68-74, (Athens) Acropolis Butrint (Albania) 483 Butrint (Albania) 482-8, Town Corfu 407 Ireon 81 Moni Dafniou Moni 414 Nea 317-20, Town Old Rhodes Winged Victory of Samothrace of Victory Winged 572 travellers women 572 work Sites Heritage World see also individual individual also see species Corfu 488 Corfu 212 Ios 499 Lefkada 436 Limnos 178 Mykonos 193 Naxos 189 Paros 330 Rhodes 490 Corfu 329 Embonas whale spotting 560 spotting whale 560-1 wildflowers 559-60, wildlife windsurfing 50-1 windsurfing wine 557 455 383, wine festivals wineries 606

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: Look out for Sights Tours Drinking 1 T 6 these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation Activities Sleeping Shopping 2 4 7 No payment F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Tram environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train projects.

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village 588 Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS Gina Tsarouhas, Kirsten Rawlings and Mandy Many thanks to the travellers who used Sierp. And fi nally, thanks to Kendra and Dale the last edition and wrote to us with help- for the home-from-home to work in and big ful hints, useful advice and interesting love to my daughters Simone and Monique anecdotes: for making me take time out to dance around Badong Abesamis, Alex Archer, Tina Audrey, the front room. Julia Bargarum, Ian Brown, Jan Bruusgaard, Alexis Averbuck Nikki Buran, Peter Castello, Eva Dhmhtriou, Spiros Divaris, Ray Edmondson, Per Eng- Hail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot- ström, Eric Feigenbaum, Lindsay Grant, on recommendations. Marina Flenga was Martin Haemmerle, Paula Hagiefremidis, Yair a superlative fairy godmother, connecting Hashachar, Geoff Hughes, Juliana Hughes, me to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Roberta Iamiceli, Sharon Johnson, Nikki Kane, Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (Kerkyra), Eleni Tzortzis Kontonikolaou, Georgia Manos, Anton Doxiadi (Lefkada), Manita Scocimara-Pong- Moehrke, Marina Mogli, Anette Munthe, Allene his (Kefallonia), Ioanna Katsigeras (Kythira), Nicholson, Nikolaos Ntantis, Galatea Paradissi, Theodoris Drossos (Aegina) and Petros William Parnell, Leo Paton, NCW Pratten, Tee Haritatos and Dimitris Anargyros (Spetses) Selvaratnam, Manolis Spinthakis, Dan Stacey, shared their love and knowledge of their Ralf Teepe, Ronne van Zuida, Elizabeth Waddell, islands. In Athens, Lena Lambrinou decoded Aonghus Weber, Richard Woolf, Teun Zijlmans the Acropolis and Elina Lychoudi the nightlife. Margarita Kontzia and Anthy and Costas made it home. AUTHOR THANKS Michael Stamatios Clark Korina Miller Ευχαριστώ (thank you) to those who helped Thank you to the countless people who have make the road a welcoming place – in partic- been so generous with their time and knowl- ular Heather Parsons, George and Mahi (Sko- edge. In particular, to my co-authors for shar- pelos); Chrysanthi Zygogianni (Skyros); and ing their huge expertise and well-timed hu- Vasillis and Demetra (Ikaria). MJ Keown was mour. Thank you also to Anna Tyler and Sally instrumental from the beginning, along with Schafer for their patience and assistance Kostas and Nana Vatsis. Special thanks to my and for giving me the opportunity, and to fellow author Chris Deliso who paved the way Monique Perrin, Tasmin Waby McNaughtan, in the Northeast Aegean, and to Korina Miller BEHIND THE SCENES 589

cult ffi Laura Laura Naomi Javier Martinez Martinez Javier Brendan Dempsey, Dempsey, Brendan Ryan Evans, Annelies Mertens, Mertens, Annelies Evans, Ryan Paton, Trent Paterson, Susan Robertson, Averil Martine Power, Gerard John Taufa, Riina Stewart, Emily Juan Winata, K Walker, Wolman Sonya Brooke, Mick Garrett, Mick Garrett, Brooke, Sonya Leversha James Zarracina Thanks to Thanks Charles Rawlings-Way, Gina Rawlings-Way, Charles Fion- Turner, Saralinda Tsarouhas, Whitfield Kate nuala Twomey, Cartographers Assisting Research Cover Research Image Internal Vauconsant Aude Illustrator Content Language Crawford Parker Hydrology and Earth System

11, 163344. 11, cation’, cation’, fi Imogen Imogen Alice Alice

Richard Waters Tilos, on Valentina to special thanks My Alexis Michelle on Nisyros, on Symi, Manos and Maria generosity his endless for on Kos My on Patmos. company her eccentric for and Miller Korina Tyler, Anna to too thanks thanks Final Tsarouhas. Gina patient a very di people who despite the Greek to go ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from map data adapted Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger Map of World Classi Sciences, times are always welcoming with open arms. with welcoming always are times generously shared their expertise and local local and expertise their shared generously family, the Papadospiridaki including insights, Ioannis Miliarakis, Nikos Alegakis, Vaggelis and Founti-Vassi Marianna Giannoutsos, Moin Sadiq. Cover photograph: Fira, Santorini, Ocean/ Santorini, Fira, photograph: Cover & the Peace for Architects p537: Corbis. Thymios Papa- Athens, Stadium, Friendship the images of Many Associates. giannis & from licensing for available in this guide are www.lonelyplanet Images: Planet Lonely images.com. Angela Tinson Angela Jane Hart Jacqui Jacqui Saunders Tasmin Waby Waby Tasmin Andrew Smith Andrew

anza, Beth Hall, Carly Hall, Carly Hall, Beth Hall, anza, Adrienne Janice Bird, Barker, Cost Briohny Harewood, Jocelyn Alan Anne Mulvaney, Hooper, Catherine Naghten, Murphy, Pitts, Christopher Odijk, Kristin Coordinating Editors Coordinating Monique Perrin Chin, Nigel Carto- Coordinating grapher Layout Coordinating Designer Editors Managing McNaughtan Editor Senior Cartographers Managing Layout Managing Designer Editors Assisting Bannister, Mandy Sierp Lyall, Alison

guidebook Greek Islands Greek ection. May they always go towards towards go always they May ection. ff Commissioning Editors Commissioning Joanna Cooke, Catherine Crad- Cooke, Joanna Anna Tyler dock, THIS BOOK Lonely edition of This 7th Planet’s was researched and written by by and written researched was Kyriako- Victoria Miller, Korina Michael Averbuck, Alexis poulos, Chris Deliso, Clark, Stamatios Schulte- Andrea Hannigan, Des In Waters. and Richard Peevers Gina authors, these addition to Will Willet, David Tsarouhas, Miriam Hellander, Paul Gourlay, also Stone Andrew and Raphael editions of on previous worked This guidebook was the book. Planet’s in Lonely commissioned by and produced office, London the following: Andrea Schulte-Peevers Andrea for Tyler Anna to thank you a big up, First Heartfelt at this book. giving me a shot being for David husband my to also thanks around while tooling company such good her fruitful for Miriam Bers and to the island, who folks all the good to Big kudos referrals. Victoria Kyriakopoulos Victoria author Korina coordinating to thanks Sincere Tyler Anna and Schafer Sally and to Miller, the opportunity for London Planet at Lonely afar. albeit from this edition, to contribute to Anastas- Chris partner my to Special thanks to and encouragement, his support for siades Kostas son beautiful my and to Nik and Sam, into joy such absolute bringing for Leonidas life. my Des Hannigan Des pro- tourism friends, the many to My thanks local both strangers, passing and fessionals helped and advised who have and nonlocal, many over in Greece work me during my mention, to numerous too are They years. gratitude my of all aware are but I hope they and a the Good. for coordinating grace, and to Janet for keep- for Janet to and grace, coordinating for simmered. Tunisia while cool ing things ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’