Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/15-17 Registrar of Newspapers Licenced to post without prepayment for India under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-506/15-17 Publication: 15th & 28th of every month Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS CHENNAI INSIDE • Short ‘N’ Snappy • Kolli’s sacred groves • A ‘missing’ cemetery • A dancer’s story • 3 pages of Madras Week

Vol. XXVII No. 10 MUSINGS September 1-15, 2017 Government smile for Madras Day? (By The Editor)

fter years of studiously avoiding the subject, the Government Aof Tamil Nadu appears to be waking up to the possibility of joining Madras Day celebrations. That is, if a recent pronounce- ment is to be believed. If this is true, it is indeed a welcome development and we sincerely hope that the statement will translate into action. As officialdom has a tendency to forget its statements when convenient, we are publishing an extract from The Hindu dated August 11, 2017 wherein the following question was posed to the Commissioner, Corporation of Greater Chennai, and he replied as quoted thereafter: “With the Foundation Day for Madras falling on August 22, this month is considered a heritage month. Does the Corporation have any Cycling to celebrate Madras Week plans to celebrate the Foundation Day?” ● Cycling Yogis’ sixth edition of the Madras Day Heritage breakfast was served. Participants took the Swachh Bharat “Not this year. Because the initial phase of Chennai Metro Rail Ride along the Adyar River saw 71 cyclists, including 18 Pledge. ASI Chennai Circle CA, Saravanan gave away opposite Ripon Buildings is expected to be completed by the end support staff/volunteers, start-off at 5 a.m. from San Thome the medal/badges to the cyclists. The return leg was to the of this year. Only after its completion will the restoration of Victoria Inn and follow the river as much as possible. The starting point. Here, the Cycling Yogis pose after the picnic Manimangalam Dharmeswarer Temple, near the starting Hall be taken up. We are planning to organise a series of events, breakfast at the temple. point of the river, was the U-turn point of the ride. A brief (Continued on page 3) interactive session about the river took place here while (More Madras Week reports on pages 7, 8, and 9). Conservation promised, but where’s the mind-set? t’s good news that the Public condition of neglect for several vation to a low priority status. tion programme is being tally to seek one time sanction IWorks Department of Tamil years. It is reported that about We are assured that the evalua- viewed, not piece by piece, but of money and expertise, saving Nadu, through its specially 200 such structures have been tion would be completed in six in totality. Evaluation of the time. Each heritage site and formed division, the Building identified for deeper study of months. This seems adequate in present condition of heritage major components of each site Centre and Conservation Divi- the individual needs of each. normal circumstances, but am- structures across the State for can be prioritised for the ur- sion (BCCD), will be embark- The announcement is a re- bitious considering the speed at their specific requirements has gency that it demands. The ing on a major project across the assurance that the Government which public agencies move. advantages. Monetary and more urgent ones can be taken State to conserve heritage is alive to the consequences of A positive implication of the technical requirements can be up immediately to beat time buildings that have been in a continued relegation of conser- report also is that the conserva- determined individually and to- (Continued on page 2)

Work still on at Kalas Mahal. Kalas Mahal – eastern face exterior. Humayun Mahal in total ruin – no evidence of any restoration work having started. CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2017 Conservation Good morning gaffes promised, but... his is that season of the chiefly to study the reactions of eral consular staff were in at- Tyear when many of our those greeted. The women in- tendance. Chief among these (Continued from page 1) would need the support of con- city’s residents return home, variably sprang six inches in was the senior consul himself, having completed their the air and if sari clad wrapped and the man was seriously jet- servation architecture firms for grandparently duties in lands it tightly around their shoul- lagged. Thus right through and save them from disintegra- a few years,” says A. Srivathsan, far away. This breed can be ders as though expecting MMM’s speech he(that is the tion. Of course, this implies that Professor of Architecture and easily identified chiefly by their MMM to do a Jack The Ripper consul and not MMM) dozed a certain degree of freedom is Academic Director, Centre for new walking shoes, and T- on them. Those that were in but being a true diplomat he given to the BCCD in using the Environmental Planning & shirts with strange and rather other raiments just walked off managed to keep a fixed smile allocated money for any project Technology, Ahmedabad. unsuitable messages. The Man rapidly probably mentally mak- on his face even as his eyes within the scheme according to The second organisational from Madras Musings has seen ing a note to avoid Lotharios were shut completely. The priority. In our situation, be- concern is this. We are told that elderly men walking around like MMM. general picture was of a lis- cause of much longer than nor- BCCD’s restoration work would proudly sporting emblazoned The men were no different. tener in rapt attention but mal gestation, the money sanc- messages such as “I am hot”, Some scowled in response MMM who knows how vicious be carried out under the super- “Big boys play at night” and, while others grunted grudg- jet lag can be, was sympathetic tioned at the outset becomes vision of the Superintending most memorably, “Balls of ingly. A few looked at MMM and understood. inadequate due to rising costs. Engineer (Buildings), Planning fire”! MMM has followed with with a kind of look that implied The man awoke with a start Time over-run in execution is and Designs Circle, Chennai glee several of these newly re- that if MMM was greeting them at periodic intervals, his slum- translated into cost over-run. and Chief Engineer (Buildings) turned people and eaves- with a view to asking them of a bers largely interrupted when This can be taken care of by Chennai Division. As BCCD is dropped on their conversation. loan then MMM was quite mis- the audience guffawed or project management, if given meant to be a specially equip- Most of them talk about how taken and would be well ad- clapped. And then when it was enough freedom within overall ped body for restoration work, life was extremely restricted vised to try his luck elsewhere. all over and MMM had limits, to re-direct funds from its specialty work should not be out there during weekdays and Clearly all of them were famil- shuffled off stage, he (the con- one project to another, accord- exposed to interference on res- as to how when they did get iar with Polonius’ speech to sul, in case you are still awake around on weekends the first Laertes. The matter did not at this stage in the column and ing to the urgency for retrieval. toration aspects, by supervising thing that struck them was the end with that. MMM noticed wondering as to who MMM Allotment of funds is the engineers and staff, otherwise broadness of the sidewalks and that from the next day most meant), bounded forward with first pre-requisite for action and well qualified but with no back- the ease with which they could walkers cleared the street the extended hand, beamed at the best test of earnestness. ground of handling heritage walk there. In terms of pedes- moment they saw MMM in the MMM and congratulated him There is no indication in the structures. trian comfort, the general ver- distance. They hid behind trees (MMM) on the wonderful talk report of the sum sanctioned for Our fears of delays and seri- dict appeared to be that Ma- till MMM had passed or lurked that he (the consul) had so this project. To demonstrate ous technical inadequacies are dras was no comparison to in dark corners. Some did an enjoyed. earnestness to the public, Gov- not unfounded considering re- Massachusetts or wherever about turn and walked off hop- It was then the consul’s ernment should declare the to- cent experiences. Victoria Pub- else it was. ing to have shaken MMM off. turn at the podium. He got on tal sum to be allotted and the lic Hall, which is Category 1 sum of the first tranche. Peri- heritage structure on which odic reports of progress placed work of conservation was taken SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY in public domain would enable up in 2010 with sanction of Rs. activists and public to feel the 3.39 crore was abandoned be- government working. Pro-ac- fore completion when the land tive feedback on quality of res- was taken over to construct the MMM often wondered if MMM, not to be outdone, to stage, held the mike, these migratory birds ever no- speeded up, caught up with beamed at everyone and then toration and undue time-lags underground metro. This is a ticed another aspect of walk- them and wished them never- said that he was delighted that would afford scope for timely classic example of how not to ing around abroad – the ten- theless. But after a while he he was in Islamabad. There correctives. do heritage conservation work. dency to greet perfect strang- gave this up, chiefly to prevent was a deathly silence, the kind On organisational issues Kalas Mahal, widely reported in ers with a smile, a nod and a the more elderly from getting that you experience in there are concerns. We are told March 2017 as having been re- good morning or good evening apoplectic attacks. Trappist monasteries and then that Public Works Department stored to its original glory at a or good-whatever-time-of- MMM later related his expe- everyone began to talk at once, of Tamil Nadu through its spe- cost of Rs. 14.5 crore, is not day-it-was. That is a habit that rience to his good lady, also no doubt in the hope that the cially formed BCCD would anywhere near a completed Chennai-ites in MMM’s opin- known as She Who Must Be rest of the audience had not implement the conservation state nor in a state of glory as ion would do well to cultivate. Obeyed. She, in the manner of heard. It took quite a while for project. It is specially formed to The current tendency is to most wives, laid the fault the tumult to die down. The any visit to the site today would view everyone else on the road squarely at MMM’s doorstep. It consul had by then recovered hold exclusive responsibility for reveal. In the case of Bharat In- with suspicion if not open hos- was her considered view that and turning a bright cerise this project. Is it also specially surance Company, despite legal tility. You have to just com- MMM must have bared his apologised and moved on to trained and equipped in the art pressure upon LIC to institute pare and contrast: in foreign teeth while greeting people and other things. But to MMM it and science of handling sensi- restoration, it has done nothing, countries people keep their that must have scared them off, was clearly the highlight of the tive heritage structures? The indicating the necessity for eyes focused on the road till the lower row in particular be- evening. Imagine if this had first is necessary but not enough more stringent legal enforce- they come up close and then ing in her view barely endur- been Delhi Day instead of Ma- without the second. BCCD ment, be it in the case of a pub- make eye contact and greet able. MMM has now decided to dras Week. We could have should contract a qualified con- lic or a private institution. you. In India, and in Chennai try greeting people with his had a diplomatic incident. It is servation architect with prior Announcement of the in particular, people keep star- mouth closed but for that he high time diplomats had a ing at you till you come up needs to learn ventriloquism sleeping allowance. experience to guide project ex- project and sanction of monies close whereupon they look and carry a stuffed doll with ecution on scientific norms. have, in the past, not been a deep down at their shoes and him as well. It is perhaps best More on massage “While the BCCD is a good ini- guarantee that conservation move on. MMM drops this habit of greet- tiative, issues like training projects would be completed A couple of weeks ago ing people. In Chennai, a scowl t was only in the last issue of PWD engineers in techniques successfully and within a rea- MMM decided that he would or better still, a masterly ignore IMadras Musings that The to conserve heritage structures sonable time. Much depends wish all random passersby a appears to be the winning Man from above publication need to be taken care of. Heri- upon things being done with a good morning as he went on a habit. had waxed eloquent on the tage structures demand a differ- different mind-set. Let us hope walk. This was not done with strange messages that he gets a view to make friends but by phone to try out some new ent procedure, unlike other for a pleasant surprise this Madras in Pakistan massage service or the other. buildings. The Department time. adras Week just got over MMM however has thus far Mand the Chief was all over desisted. This is has evidently the place, now attending talks, not been to the liking of those Thank you, Donors now talking, now getting talked who market these things and G We today, publish donations received with thanks for the period from 1.07.16- to and always being talked the new messages promise fur- 15.08.16 about. The general opinion was ther delights. The latest has that the Chief was simulta- this to say: – The Editor Rs. 401: Sampath A.; Rs. 450: Walia P S; Rs. 495: Vipradas G B neously in several places and - £~¤FULLBODY M-A-S-S-A- Rs. 500: Alexander A X; Chandrasekaran A; Hemalatha Bhat; Muthukrishnan V ; Prema Sathyamurthy; Rajasundaram V; when asked as to how he man- G-E.DONE BY SOUTH Ratna Prabhu M; Shah R; Shanthi Nikethan JD; Sharma K S V; Sivarama Menon aged, all that The Man from INNDIAN NEW FEMALE Rs. 600: Thomas Tharu Madras Musings could say was rs.999 only ,thai,sweedish. Rs. 900: Appa Rao M S V; Color International; Desikan M; Edwards M J; Ganapathy K S; Janakiraman S; Kannian G; Patta that doppelgangers helped. Clearly, our talents are Radhakrishna (Dr.); Ramakrishna P; Ramanujan N; Sivaraman K; Srinivasan T; Subramanian N; Vijay Sriram MMM too got invited and spreading far and wide. Rs. 1000: Jaya Krishnaswamy, Radhakrishan R. Rs. 2000: Malathi Ramaswamy among the places he went to Rs. 4900: Adyar Times (A D Ranjan), Nagseh Somadev speak was a dinner where sev- – MMM Rs. 5900: Ambrose S P Rs. 7100: Parthasarathy N S; September 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

tree on the bank and the crew and passengers slept in it. On arrival in Madras the mer- Sacred groves chant-passengers accompa- nied their merchandise to the traders, delivered them and in Kolli sholas collected the proceeds in cash! Referring to pollution of the Canal by the NCTP, (MM, August 1st) this is The Canal yesterday for shops in Kotwal Market. nothing new. In the past, the As the boats neared the Salt water in the Canal used to ecently I read about the Cotaurs road bridge, sails were change colour frequently – the Rplans to revive and reno- lowered, rolled and tied up, reason, I used to be told, was vate the Buckingham Canal in and the boats docked at the due to discharge of effluents Andhra Pradesh. It was men- Elephant Gate wharf from into the Canal by the then tioned that the Canal meets where the loads were trans- B&C Mills; on days of dyeing the Bay of Bengal at ported to Kotwal Market by of fabrics, the colour of the Muttukadu. I am confused. If single and double bullock water was the colour of the it is so, What is the waterway carts! dye used at the mills! that runs along Madras Cen- I recall my grandfather nar- tral Station and falls into the J.V. Perumal rating his experience of using [email protected] sea at the Marina? I remember this mode of transport when being told that this was trains were not yet popular! It Natesan booklets Buckingham Canal! used to take 3-4 days and odern Review, edited by In the late 1940s and early nights to traverse the distance MRamananda Chatterjee The temple at Ayyanarpatan Sholai, which seems to be a megalithic dolmen. 50s, on my way to school in of about 170km from Nellore and Indian Review edited by G. Sowcarpet. I used to watch to Madras, with halts for cook- A. Natesan (MM, Aug. 1st) he villagers at Veeraganur- We climbed the mound, sail boats gliding along the ing food, etc.! If the weather gave space for liberal minded Tpatti in Selurnad of Kolli parted the thickets to see an Canal, laden with timber, rice, was fine, they slept on the boat persons to express their views Hills did not permit us to visit idol, which looked like a Jain pulses, chillies, etc. from under the starry sky; otherwise, without inhibition. My father the Kongliamman temple in a icon. Next to it was another places now in Andhra Pradesh the boat was tied to a sturdy was a subscriber to both as forest patch (locally called idol, smaller and in feminine well as a contributor of shola) on the ridge that drops form. articles. on its western side into the “The sacred groves of Kolli Natesan also brought out Namakkal plains. The old priest Hills of which there are refer- biographies of eminent per- at the temple, whose son per- ences in Sangam literature, A government forms the worship at present, have a few different forms of sons as booklets. As a young boy, I learnt about freedom had died that morning. worship,” said EDI Oliver King, fighters and other leaders from K. Saravanan, a village se- principal scientist at the M. S. smile those little books. I suggest nior, explained that the villag- Swaminathan Research Foun- that they be republished and ers follow the traditional prac- dation (MSSRF), who obtained tice that does not permit people (Continued on page 10) (Continued from page 1) local language editions also be brought out. Our children including a heritage walk between Ripon Buildings and Victoria have no patriots as role mod- Hall, photo exhibitions and a heritage talk, to mark the Foundation els other than cine stars and Day of the city next year (2018).” cricketers. If this is indeed going to happen, it signifies a change in the S.S. Rajagopalan 30, Kamarajar Street stance of the Government. It was only in 2014 when asked the Chennai 600 093 same question that an official had famously declared that the Gov- ernment will not be involved in the celebration of anything colo- The MGR Museum nial and would only seek to promote ancient Tamil heritage. To n the article titled ‘A mu- this our counter was that Chennai too boasts of much ancient Iseum in memory of MGR’ it Tamil heritage and the Government would do well to highlight has been mentioned that the that, if it felt that was the best way to celebrate Madras Week. MGR Memorial House is Madras Week as a concept may be a decade and a half old now maintained by a retired High but for the past few years, its prime movers have repeatedly Court Judge. I wish to inform emphasised that this is not a commemoration of just the founding you that the museum was es- Karuppusamy Sholai with agricultural fields all around it. of modern Madras but a celebration of everything the city stands tablished and is maintained by for and what it has contributed to modern India. It is therefore MGR Charities, a trust to pass through a mourning vil- rather unfortunate that a certain section persists in repeatedly headed by Dr. Latha lage into a sacred grove. The branding this event as colonial and elitist. But, fortunately, that Rajendran, the niece of Mrs. villagers believe that Kongliam- MADRAS voice has been rather muted in recent years. In this context it is Janaki Ramachandran. man, the reigning deity of the noteworthy that a parallel series of events has been held for the temple, has come from the MUSINGS past two years during Madras Week under the auspices of the Kavitha G. plains near Erode. She followed Chennai 2000 Plus Trust which aims to celebrate only the ancient Director, MGR Charities a farmer from the village who ON THE WEB history and glory of Tondaimandalam. The body also hotly con- 27, Arcot Mudali Street had gone to sell his produce in tests the belief that the city was founded only in 1639. We wel- Chennai 600017 the market at Erode, and then To reach out to as many come such a divergent view for it is only by debate and multiple Correction sat down in the shola. “From readers as possible who views that a civic society can develop. And we also note here that then on, our village had a samy share our keen interest in the body has chosen to express its views through a celebration. shola (sacred grove),” he ob- May it get the support it warrants. served. Madras that is Chennai, The biggest feather in the cap for Madras Week would be when Saravanan’s recital of the and in response to the Government chooses to join in. That would result in tourism local beliefs was colourful, and requests from many well- receiving a great boost. Commercial interests — shops and hotels he would have heard them from wishers – especially from — will also feel emboldened to become involved and the entire his elders during childhood. Just commemoration could be developed on the lines of the Dubai Fes- as there is a saviour deity, there outside Chennai and tival. The city can only benefit from such a move, as has been is also a villain deity in the vil- abroad who receive their suggested in the past. his is Sir Alladi lage. He pointed towards a postal copies very late – Madras Week began in a small way, promoted by a few journal- mound overgrown with thickets for an online edition. ists who are heritage enthusiasts, a group perhaps educationally T Krishnaswami Aiyar; we had used his son’s (Alladi and said that Thokkan’s statue elitist. That is the way any progressive move begins. It then can is there. “This deity was mis- Madras Musings is now Ramakrishnan) picture last sustain itself only when it becomes a mass movement with differ- chievous and threw stones at on the web at www. fortnight in the article They ent expressions and views. Madras Week has now reached that the village women,” Saravanan bestrode this 125-year-old build- madrasmusings.com level; it now appears to have a life of its own. Its next major thrust said pointing to the mound. ing. We regret the error. will happen when the Government shows its willingness to join in “Kongliamman tied his legs and – THE EDITOR the celebrations. 2018 may be a game changer after all. – The Editor made him sit there.” 4 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2017

CHARIVARI – 5 A ‘missing’ cemetery A subscriber to found worthy causes again

his one is truly lost in the Tsense that it has disap- peared off most maps. But the wonder is that it is still there, barely surviving. Time was when the Stanley Viaduct was just that – a cause- way at ground level through which vehicles drove across the Island, over the Cooum and on The entrance to the Armenian Cemetery. to Central Station. In the 1980s, when I travelled by bus to Tondiarpet for my summer LOST LANDMARKS OF training stint at the Best & Crompton dynamo and starter CHENNAI – SRIRAM V. factory, this was my daily beat. You could see both sides of the Island as you crossed the via- duct. On the left was St Mary’s cemetery and on the right the off by the traffic returning from but now it is practically blocked Armenian. Even then, the the station. Those who are re- off by encroachments that have former was better known, what turning can see it only if they come up on both sides. The one with it having starred in the turn back as they drive down on the left is actually built on climax of Rajinikanth’s Billa. the over-bridge, an attempt the gateway itself and cuts off Co-passengers would point at that is fraught with risks. one part of it from view. The the tombstones of the English What is more, there is no residents of the houses on both cemetery and recognise some way you can access the Arme- sides find the arch a convenient outstanding ones behind which nian cemetery from Pallavan structure to stretch clotheslines the Superstar had crouched. Salai, the road leading to the on. On seeing a visitor they Then came the over-bridge, over-bridge. The only way to do obligingly remove a garment or constructed sometime in the it is to go up to Central, make a two to enable a closer look at late 1980s. For some reason, U-turn, come back down the the cemetery. whoever planned it decided to over-bridge, park your vehicle The date on the arch is 1862. cut off all access below the opposite the Bodyguard That was the year when the Ar- Muneeswaran temple and then aharajah Mirza Pusapati Sir Vijayarama III Gajapathi Raju structure between the two parts menians petitioned the Gov- MBahadur had a long tenure as the Zamindar of of the Island that it divided. walk back, to the over-bridge ernment that the cemetery in Vizianagaram, from 1845 to 1879. He was born in 1826 and Thus, the Armenian cemetery itself. On the right of this PWD/ their churchyard was full and a technically a minor when he ascended the throne in 1845, when is no longer accessible and not Highway Department delight is new place was needed to bury his father Raja Pusapati Narayana Babu Gajapathi Bahadur died even visible from St. Mary’s the Kendriya Vidyalaya. Walk their dead. The Anglicans who in Benares, leaving an impoverished estate. The East India Com- cemetery. Those going to the on in the shadows of the over- worshipped at St Mary’s in the pany promptly moved in, taking charge of the zamindari while station can even now see the bridge through Satyavani- Fort had been allotted a burial the new ruler was a minor. It was only in 1852 that he was given muthu Nagar, a teeming slum complete control of the financially rejuvenated estate. latter, whose Gothic arches jut ground on the north-western out from below the over-bridge. that the Corporation and every- corner of the Island in 1763. A highly eulogistic tract on his tenure as Zamindar states They can shudder at the hid- one else has forgotten. You will Now, the Armenians would that his management of revenues was excellent and perhaps it eous square tower topped by a then see a partially blocked keep them company at the same was in recognition of that he was made a member of the statue of Jesus that the brick and mortar gateway in spot. Satyavanimuthu Nagar Viceroy’s Council. In that capacity he introduced the Uniform neighbouring Roman Catholic white, its classical lines attrac- was, in fact, once Burial Ground Age of Majority Bill which was considered a most important tive despite years of neglect. reform in its time. In 1864, he was granted the personal title of cemetery of St Patrick’s has Road, for it connected Mount sported in recent times. But no- This structure is at the end Road near Munro Statue to Maharajah and was allowed a personal salute of 13 guns, after of a cul-de-sac. At one time, the which the Zamindars of Vizianagaram began styling themselves body can see the Armenian Pallavan Salai (formerly Band Maharajah. cemetery. People driving to the arched gateway must have Practice Road) where these four station have their view of it cut dominated this narrow street cemeteries (St Mary’s, St Sir Vijayarama died in 1879 and his son through Alaka Patrick’s, the Armenian and the Rajeswari Lalithakumari Devi, Sir Ananda Gajapati Raju III, succeeded him. It was he who gave Madras many notable en- Commonwealth War graves) dowments – the fountain on Mount Road, Victoria Public Hall, lie. the Madras Jubilee Gayan Samaj and the Vizianagaram Maha- A grille gate whose metal- rajah School which is today the Lady Sivaswami Iyer Girls High work is now twisted protects the School. The Vizianagarams were to be a presence in Madras Armenian dead. A lock pre- city thereafter. vents ingress of casual visitors Harking back to Sir Vijayarama III, the Charivari rather con- and one look at it shows that it descendingly stated that if ever the Government of India were is a long while since it was to publicise the benefits that young native princes derived from opened. The number of Arme- the management of their estates by Government Agency and nians in the city was down to also a sound English education, this Zamindar was the best ex- forty when this burial ground ample. It also noted that he was a prompt subscriber to every was allotted and so there are worthy charity possible. It then appears to reluctantly add an- other fact – the ruler was practically an absentee landlord who very few graves inside. The grass left the administration of the estate to a native diwan. But that is really tall here and perhaps was a fault that practically every prince/Zamindar then had. hides some more tombstones. It is also evident that the sur- The sketch depicts the Zamindar looking into a mirror where rounding areas have all risen in the reflection has him with a Maharajah’s headgear. Below his feet are papers concerning two of his pet subjects – marriage height as compared to the cem- reform and native opera. etery and so it floods during the rains. Sriram V Tombs in the Armenian Cemetery. (Continued on page 10) September 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 From Bharata Natyam to Contemporary Dance

nita Ratnam, a recipient of with clarity. It is in Athe Sangeet Natak New York I under- Akademi Puraskar for Contem- stood the impor- porary Dance for 2016, started tance of punctuality out as a classical dancer when and professionalism. she made her stage debut at age I also learnt that less Anita Ratnam. nine. She decided to stop giving is more. No story on performances when she was ap- TV got more than her times. “I was very drawn to proaching twenty, when she seven minutes.” what Chandra was doing. But went abroad. After that, she did Television taught the austere beauty of her art was not dance for more than ten her to multi-task. not for me.” years. When she returned, she She was the face of Anita says she felt like clay ended up creating a new idiom the channel. She waiting to be moulded. Not one of dance and winning awards on wrote, edited and to stay still, she kept experi- the way. hosted the show. menting. She did a tribute to Anita Ratnam belongs to the “Colour became a scholar, writer, poet A.K. TVS family, a pioneer in many great trigger and sig- Ramanujan on the beach. A ways. The family was steeped in nifier. I started using friend invited her to Germany tradition when Anita was grow- bold colours, primary where she collaborated with ing up. Her mother, Leela colours.” percussionist Selvaganesh on a Ratnam, who would have loved Personal reasons short seven-minute piece. She to learn to dance but could not brought Anita back worked with young male danc- because good girls didn’t those to India. She found ers and paid them professional days, made sure her daughter that the dance scene fees. “l got scolded by the gu- did. Anita had her early train- had changed a great rus.” She was introducing ing under Rajee Narayan who deal. Group perfor- proper business methods. She taught her Bharata Natyam, mances and state was constantly evolving. “I items in Kathak and Manipuri sponsored dance fes- never trained in modem dance. and the plate dance. Her grand- tivals were making However, between 1993 and father, T.S. Rajam (her father’s Anita and Pritha. their presence felt. 2003, almost 40 to 50 dancers trained under me at the father), did not approve of her ing anything I wanted, my life The Khajuraho dancing in public. The patri- She possibly did not realise it dance festival was launched the Arangham Dance Theatre was managed by her.” Anita which I founded. We blended arch was seriously annoyed. then that all these learnings wanted to break free. year she left India. In the India However, her mother and guru were drawing her to contempo- of the 1990s she had to find her classical dance with Kalari and She was able to do that when Taichi and brought in the influ- supported her and she did not rary dance. marriage took her to the U.S. way to be on stage and off stage. stop dancing. After her Contemporary dance is not “I wanted to bring my life and ences of mythology, theatre, and to New Orleans. “It is a voice training and the tradition arangetram in June 1964, Modern Dance though it may fabulous city.” She explored the art together. To do that I had to Anita’s guru moved to Mumbai. have elements of it. It combines stop being the dancer I was be- of storytelling.” various possibilities available in For ten years, she did many Her mother sent her to train features of several dance genres. this vibrant city. When she fore I left for the U.S.A. My life under Adyar Lakshman. She It stresses versatility and impro- had taken too many turns for group productions such as went to the drama school at the Gajanana and Panchajanyam. was twelve then. visation, unlike the strict, struc- university, Anita felt she be- me to return to the way I was. Anita did not just dance. tured nature of classical Off came the jewels, silks and Purush, the all male production, longed. She met the students was a spectacular success. “My She enjoyed sport just as much. Bharata Natyam. Contempo- and teachers and decided to ankle bells. Out went the She played tennis so well that if rary dancers strive to connect padam-s and javali-s and kriti-s theatre experience helped me pursue her M.A. in Theatre and animate the performances.” she had taken it seriously she the mind and the body through Television from the University and varnam-s. Tradition and could have gone places. She fluid dance movements. “How should a mature woman went hiking and swimming, After graduating, Anita look on stage? I worked with and, as she puts it, her body was joined Kalakshetra – the school young designer Sandhya Raman on costuming. I had to build a at play most of her waking dedicated to arts and culture, G by Sushila Ravindranath hours. Her guru Lakshman particularly classical dance – small community of creative wanted her to give up every founded and run by Rukmini artists. Classical pianist and physical activity other than Devi Arundale. As she had said composer Anil Srinivasan, singer Vedanth Bharadwaj, Bharata Natyam. “He wanted in an interview in Open maga- of New Orleans. She was the modernity seemed binaries in were all people I worked with. me to be more feminine.” But zine, “Those years the only first student for whom the RBI conflict with each other.” There is very little collegiality in even then dance was not place to learn the theory about released funds to study theatre She embarked on a journey the dance world unlike the- enough for her. “There are so dance was Kalakshetra. I was abroad. Anita literally lived in to find out what she wanted to atre.” She curated and was the many things to love in life.” All intellectually curious and the theatre department, audi- do. “Bharata Natyam was the Co-Artistic Director of The forms of creative and perform- wanted to learn the pedagogy of tioning for every play produced, vocabulary my body knew.” She Other Festival – a contempo- ing arts fascinated her: she was dance and Sanskrit.” soaking in the atmosphere and had to work around that. Ma- rary arts festival – with cutting fully involved in school and col- Kalakshetra offered formalised absorbing everything that was dras of those days as now was edge performances, brought for lege activities, she performed in group classes. The only teacher going on around her. full of cultural activities. She the first time to Chennai. plays, theatre was going to be- who recognised that Anita’s Then she moved to New turned to Koothu-p-pattarai, In 2000, Anita launched the come a lifelong passion. body was doing other things and York and embarked on a televi- one of India’s most respected award-winning website Anita danced at the Music that she wanted to do some- sion career. “I did not dance contemporary theatre move- narthaki.com which provides Academy in 1971 when she was thing else with her movements from 1976 to 1990. I was host- ments engaged in identifying, you with information on every- just 16. The audience included was the late Neila Satyalingam. ing my own TV show in New preserving and promoting vari- thing you ever wanted to know icons like T. Balasaraswati and This guru later moved to York city which ran from 1981 ous expressions of the country’s about dance. It has been de- M.S. Subbulakshmi. Anita was Singapore and set up a school to 1990.” Her TV experience cultural repertoire. Koothu-p- scribed as ‘the online Bible for also learning Mohini Attam there. (She passed away re- taught her many things. “I pattarai’s illustrious founder Indian classical dance’. “When from Chinnammu Amma and cently.) learnt to work with a team. A Na. Muthuswamy became a I was in New York, ABC TV Kathakali from Balasubra- Anita recognised that she good manager makes everybody mentor. The multifaceted channel wanted to do soft sto- manian of Kalamandalam, both was a performer, liked being on in the team a stakeholder both Chandralekha, with her un- ries on India. They could not famous teachers. “When I did stage and enjoyed all the atten- in the process and product. I apologetic stance on the play of find the address of Yamini Mohini Attam, my body felt tion it brought. She was a quick had to think on my feet, take abstraction, physicality and Krishnamurthi. The Indian Em- free. Kathakali helped animate learner. However, she started quick decisions and solve prob- sexuality in her dance, had bassy did not have it. So I my face.” She had already be- rebelling when she was around lems. Most important, one given up the prettiness and pi- brought out a dancers’ directory gun to work on making her per- 19 or 20. “Although my mother learns to deal with egos and per- ety of conventional Bharata formances more interesting. didn’t discourage me from do- sonalities and communicate Natyam. She was way ahead of (Continued on page 6) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2017 The new face (Quizmaster V.V. Ramanan’s questions are from August 1st to 15th. Questions 11 to 20 relate to Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) on the 1. Recently, US scientists developed the world’s first plant-based Zika vaccine, that may be more effective, safer and cheaper, by extracting pro- old block teins from which plant which can be deadly in another context? he brand new Rasika from our teacher’s notes in 2. Name the nationwide campaign T Ranjani Sabha in class, and that was the case till launched on August 12th (World Mylapore which opened its music books were written by the Elephant Day) by the Union Minis- doors recently, has stirred the then principal of the sabha, A.S. try of Environment and Forests to memories of a legion of Panchapakesa Iyer.” protect the pachyderms. Mylaporeans, whose cultural The renovation of R.R. 3. Name the renowned songwriter- and social life was closely en- Sabha was undertaken by poet who is the new Chairman of the twined with the programmes at Saraswathi’s husband in 1957. Central Board of Film Certification, this cultural space on “He was a building contractor replacing the ‘controversial’ Pahlaj Sundareswarar Street. and was friends with Natesan, Nihalani. For Renuka Krishnamurti, it The old and the new... 4. ‘Sankalp se Siddhi’ (attainment was time to rewind. She is the through resolve) was the theme of the 75th anniversary of which mo- daughter of V.S. Krishna- vement observed on August 9th? murthi, the man who had re- 5. Who did M. Venkaiah Naidu beat modeled the R.R. Sabha in to become India’s 13th Vice Presi- 1958. dent? Renuka’s mother, K. V.S. Krishnamurthi. 6. Name the new exchange-traded Saraswathi, a resident of fund (ETF) launched by the Union Mylapore all her life, recalls Finance Ministry to speed up the “R.R. Sabha was first con- Government’s disinvestment structed in 1929. It was the only programme. sabha in the Mylapore area 7. On August 2nd, who retired from then. Kutcheries were held twice public appearances at the age of 96, a month, and sometimes dra- after having completed 22,219 solo mas too. When I was ten years engagements since 1952. old, I started learning music 8. Which club has got Neymar from there. My teachers were B. FC Barcelona for a world-record transfer fee of Euro 222 million? Rajam Iyer and K. Natesa Iyer. 9. Name the hospital in Gorakhpur I remember the fees was two (UP) where more than 30 children rupees a month for the begin- died, allegedly due to lack of oxygen ners’ class and five rupees for supply to the wards, leading to na- the varnam class.” tionwide shock and condemnation. She goes on, “We did not 10. ‘Gabriel Chundan’ is the new have music books at the time. champion of which race, the 65th All of us would copy the songs edition of which was conducted in a southern State on August 12th? * * * * * Bharata Natyam to Contemporary Dance Srinivasan and Kuppuswami, 11. What is the reason for the prefix the three people who ran the ‘Bodyguard’ before the deity (Continued from page 5) that Anita was a true original. one production to another. “I sabha at the time.” Muneeswarar in the temple on She is a non-conformist who have to really imagine the idea Saraswathi recalls, “The old Pallavan Salai? and narthaki.com was born out confounds and threatens the that seizes me is interesting sabha building, before it was 12. Name the popular bakery, part of that desire to provide infor- status quo. Through her artistic enough to develop into a perfor- demolished and reconstructed, of the Bhimannanpettai Corpora- mation on dance.” arc, she showcases a rare kind mance. I take one full year to had one big hall and a stage at tion Community College on C. P. Anita is an incessant travel- Ramaswamy Iyer Road, that helps of Indian feminism, eschewing imagine, conceive and create a one end of it. Two rooms were school drop-outs by providing train- ler who is invited all over the the banal tropes of patriarchy work. Like I did with Ahalya there for the drama artistes to ing in baking to make a living. world to perform, give lectures derived from tired mythological and Sita. Their stories are so rel- use. Music classes were held in 13. Whose statue is found at the en- and participate in seminars. “I templates, and the mundane, evant as are their flaws and tri- the hall. My husband, who was trance of the Ezhilagam building believe in networking with arbitrary notions of societal umphs. Take Ahalya. How a civil engineer, stuck to the near the beach? other dance professionals. In value systems that saturate the many multiple ideas burst out original design, but added an 14. If the first was Kanta Kumari Europe there is a lot of political Indian dance milieu. She is a immediately! I think of Ahalya office room. The ceiling was Bhatnagar in 1992, then who was freedom for dancers. Dance in- fearless risk taker, who values and the surface of stone, eyes of built by another person. the second? corporates very current issues. an open mind and implicitly stone, heart of stone, Stone- “It took about a year to com- They discuss ideas, not person- 15. Where is the Post Graduate Re- trusts the collaborative process. henge, stone as early writing plete the work and M.S. search Institute in Animal Sciences, alities. They are bold and ex- She prioritises an uncompro- tablet, stone memorials, stone Subbulakshmi’s kutcheri was the formerly called Livestock Research perimental. However, it is all a mising aesthetic in the produc- carvings, healing stones. How highlight of the inaugural func- Station, located? bit over the top for me to try tion standards of her work. can I not recall the stone throw- tion in 1958 when it reopened.” 16. Which specific four-lettered and incorporate in my dance.” Anita is a brazen provocateur, ing in Kashmir valley today?” word meaning Church of Scotland Saraswathi also recalls, “My Although full of ideas, Anita who releases the power within What drives Anita? She says, is part of an imposing Madras edi- husband constructed several realised that her mind was hy- to rebel and celebrate being “To continue to have the pas- fice? buildings in the city which are peractive. “I am a better per- different. As a powerful Indian sion for the arts today needs an 17. Which famous centre of learn- landmarks, including the former than a choreographer.” female artist role model, Anita, attitude of a warrior who is battle ing in the metro has the motto Ananda Vikatan building on She needed to collaborate with truly kicks butt!” She takes risks ready, but also the heart of a Siddhirbhavathi karmaja (taken from Mount Road and the Thygaraja people she was compatible with. and says that she does not mind dreamer. We need to find a rea- the Bhagavad Gita)? Vidwath Samajan building in In 1996, she met Hari Krishnan, looking foolish. She also takes son to believe and to be excited 18. What did Goday Narayana Thyagarajapuram, Mylapore.” Gajapathi Rao commission near the internationally respected dan- on authority. “I have not inten- about life.” She questions herself beach to show his ‘gratitude’ to cer, choreographer, teacher and tionally, but often, been in all the time. “What are we creat- Renuka adds, “When I was Queen Victoria for elevating him dance scholar based in Canada collision with the powers that ing for and for whom? Is there a young, I would accompany my from a ‘zamindar’ to a ‘raja’? and the U.S.A. and costume and be. I have drawn attention to sense of magic or enchantment parents to several dramas at the 19. After the National Highways visual designer Rex. They the dirty and unhygienic condi- that we can bring into our ideas? sabha. The last time I watched a were renumbered in 2010, what is started working together. tions of green rooms for dancers Is there a sense of hope that we play there was in 1981, the the current number for erstwhile Says Hari Krishnan, “Over in sabha-s and the flawed system still believe in? We have to find dance drama Maduranayaki fea- NH4? the years, through the process of choosing artists for the answers when the pressure to turing the late Chief Minister J. 20. What came into being on May of collaborating with her on our foreign tours and many other give up is everywhere.” – (Cour- Jayalalithaa.” – (Courtesy: 12, 1978 thanks to 16 nature enthu- works Neelam, A Million Sitas, Mylapore Times) siasts led by Vivek Kunte? issues.” tesy: Sruti). (Answers on page 10) Ma3ka and Andal, I recognised Anita does not rush through – Preeti Srivatsan September 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

G Three pages celebrating Madras Week

What do you know Quizzing the A 1746 story told about Madras? children in 1781 ● Sudha Umashankar told the story of Madras followed by a G One of the highlights of Madras Week was the ‘The Coroman- ‘Guess this landmark quiz’ and del in Maps 1705-1909’ exhibition held at Amethyst. It featured invited suggestions for a birth- maps of India, South India, the Coromandel Coast and Madras day gift for the city from three (including a map of Pallavaram!) done by British, French and Ger- groups of children gathered at man cartographers. Each map had a story to tell – and the most Storycorner at Bookmine, Sevalaya, and Akshara Arbol fascinating one was the 1781 British map that told the story of International School. Madras after its capture by the French in 1746. She writes, “The Akshara Though we feature the map today, the writing on the print had Arbol children didn’t know how faded quite a bit so today’s reproduction won’t let you read all it ● Among the Madras Literary Society’s many programmes for to react when I told them the says. But the main features are indicated in a key map below: Madras Week was this quiz: What do you know about Madras? The land on which their school stood Chronicler of Madras, S. Muthiah, showed pictures of 25 Madras was once the Long Tank!” buildings/structures and asked for them to be identified, then A teacher comments, “It was narrated the back stories of each of them. The winner from the indeed a resourceful session for enthusiastic audience, lawyer Dhruva, scored 19 out of 25 but like all of us! I am sure this learning all the rest bar one he was stumped by the question on an early will facilitate keen observation map of Fort. St. George: ‘What was the date on the agreement of places around us and start granting the land for this complex?’ wondering on their history. We hope to build on this knowledge and support students to become ‘Namma Chennai Chancey Illa’ responsible and help preserve these heritage buildings.” ● Writer-Director Biswanath Rath, CEO of Chennai based ‘BnR Sevalaya’s V. Muniyammal Films’ has produced for the Tunes of India as a celebration of (VII B) says, “I learnt something Madras Day (i.e. August 22nd), ‘Namma Chennai Chancey Illa’ different apart from my social (There is no place like Chennai). text book.” And M. Jeeva (VIII The official YouTube link is: https://www.youtube.com/ A) adds, “After this storytelling watch?v=nSvN5C1Mqgg session, I took a decision to keep This music video is about Chennai and its culture and focuses my city clean. This is my gift for on the unique nuances of Chennai. Since its production, it has Madras’s Birthday.” been screened at two international festivals. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2017 From agraharam-s to self-immolations didn’t realise West Mam- If T’Nagar is crowded, to The Madras Week walk I balam had such a colourful me West Mambalam is con- through West Mamblam began history. But then the past comes gested, barring a few stretches at the Kothandaramar temple, alive when you hear it from and it is with great difficulty near the Madley subway. The someone who has grown up in that you negotiate your way. Kothandaramar temple was Padmapriya Baskaran (left) in front of the Srinivasa Theatre, West the area and is so passionate So I had never before really built by Adi Narayana Dasa, a Mambalam. (Pictures courtesy: Jothivel Moorthy.) about history like Padmapriya bothered to look at it in a descendant of Gopanna, popu- construction of the temple at mandapam, we reached our next Baskaran, a blogger and heri- historical sense, though I was larly known as Bhaktha Bhadrachalam and hence was halt, the Kasi Viswanathar tage enthusiast and, most im- aware of the fact that Ramadas, who was a revenue imprisoned for misusing state temple. Padmapriya said as a portantly, a neighbourhood girl Mambalam existed much be- collector under the Golconda funds. As legend goes, he was water source was one of the who has spent most of her life fore Theyagaroya Nagar was ruler Abul Hasan Tana Sha. A finally released when Lord main reasons for any army in in this self-contained and con- born in the early 20th great devotee of Rama, he is Rama and Lakshmana appeared those days to make its camp, it servative neighbourhood. Century. supposed to have used the state in the guise of traders and paid was around the Long Tank money collected for the the due amount in gold to the (that has now disappeared to Sultan. emerge as T’ Nagar) that the The Kothandaramar temple, Vijayanagara army had camped. built on the model of the temple The commander of the at Bhadrachalam, was later Vijayanagara army was keen on renovated by Vankayala a pilgrimage to the holy temple Kuppaiah Chetty, a rich busi- of Viswanatha at Kasi nessman, who apparently was (Varanasi), but as he could not being slowly poisoned by his make it to Kasi, he decided to own relatives. Vankayala Kuppaiah Chetty stands with G by folded hands frozen as a sculp- S. Anwar ture right in front of the sanc- tum sanctorum. The street ad- jacent to the Kasi Viswanathar build the temple right on the temple is also named after him, banks of the Long Tank and though the name has been trun- hence it is known as the Kasi cated just to Kuppaiah. Viswanathar temple. The temple, believed to have been The next stop from the built about 400 years ago, was temple was the school run by in a very dilapidated condition, the Ahobila Math, one of the but was renovated just a few three schools in Chennai city years ago, recounts Padmapriya. that follows the Oriental A little further from the method of teaching. The temple stands the Thandu At the Kothandaramar temple in West Mambalam. Below right: the statue of Vankayala Kuppaiah Chetty Ahobila Math Oriental School Thulukkanathamman Koil, was started in 1953. Co-educa- which in itself seems to convey tional, the children still wear that it should have been a deity traditional attire to school. Past worshipped by the camping the agraharam, where the tiled army, as thandu means the houses are giving way to multi- camping ground of an army, storey buildings, we stopped at explained Priya. the Srinivasa Theatre. Built in The gohshala adjoining the 1963 by Devanathan, right in Kanchi Mutt was started about the heart of a city which is go- 30 years ago with three cows ing the expensive multiplex and today has a little more than way, the highest priced ticket at a hundred cows. Every Friday, this theatre even today is Rs 130 devotees assemble for the Goh and lowest is Rs 7. You get to pooja which is telecast live. The see the latest releases too and all milk from the gohshala is distrib- in DTS sound! uted to schools nearby free of Moving past the Haridass cost. madam, also known as Bajanai (Continued on page 9) Discovering heritage on the OMR with OMG o most people, OMR, or Rajiv Gandhi To highlight all of this, Doshi Housing, a con- TExpressway, is nothing more than a road that struction company with a residential project in has several IT giants and many glass-fronted of- the area, has embarked on a novel exercise. It has fices lining it. It is also known for its endless traf- sponsored what it refers to as the OMR OMG fic signals, some of which necessitate halts of as Shuttle Service, which runs for free four times a long as ten to fifteen minutes. What is forgotten day between Madhya Kailash and the Aavin Milk is that the OMR area is also a historic stretch. At Cooperative at Sholinganallur. The luxury bus one end it has Mahabalipuram, the Pallava port comes with an audio-visual presentation on the with numerous rock carvings and shrines. En history and heritage of OMR, conceptualised by route are historic villages such as Tirukazhu- Sriram V, Associate Editor, Madras Musings. All gukundram, Tiruporur, Velachery and Semmen- passengers are also given a booklet that chery with age-old shrines. There are, besides, summarises the history covered. The first run on several historic educational and technical insti- each day is at 9.30 am from Madhya Kailash. The tutions of Chennai located here, all of which service, which began on August 24th, will be on combined to make the OMR an intellectual capi- for a month. tal region long before IT set foot there. Indeed, it Doshi Housing is also willing to take groups, was this educational base that in many ways fa- and the contact number is 88079 88079. Email: cilitated the setting up of the IT industry here. marketing@doshihousing. com. The ‘OMR is now OMG’ bus. September 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 9 Justice Party – and the birth of T’Nagar

he Justice Party Heritage It was the Raja of Paanagal TWalk during Madras Week and not Panagal or Panangal (as was an enriching enough expe- a tea shop outside the park was rience to warrant an entire ar- named) who was instrumental ticle about the evolution of T’ in converting the Long Tank, Nagar. For someone like me, extending from Nungam- who has spent a considerable bakkam to Saidapet, into a amount of my life in and around township to cater to the in- T’Nagar (I could literally claim creasing population of Madras. In front of the Raja of Panagal’s statue in Panagal Park, T’Nagar. Govi Lenin extreme left. (Pictures courtesy: there isn’t a street there my feet Although that has today made Kombai S. Anwar.) haven’t touched) there were us Mambalamwasis, running tunities in education and em- rapandianar, who took the bold and that it was anti-Brahmin. several surprises in store. For behind water tankers for drink- ployment with Brahmins. He step of cancelling licenses of bus The genesis of the Party was in one, I learnt that T’Nagar was ing water, in those days, it en- also did away with the require- services that did not allow demand to include non-Brah- shaped like a rising sun, with sured the creation of a planned ment of Sanskrit proficiency to Dalits to board them. Pondy mins in education and jobs. Panagal Park forming a semi- settlement that better con- pursue medical education. Bazaar is named after him. O Over time, it’s philosophies and circle and G.N.Chetty Road, nected Mambalam and Puliyur Mayor Basudev’s (1930-37) Thanikachalam Chetty, ideologies changed! Happens Theyagaraya Road, and villages to the rest of Madras. family members joined us. The with every party, as leaders Venkatnarayana Road emerg- The Raja of Paanagal also intro- trade union leader was the man G change, so does the manifesto, ing from it like the rays of the duced the Communal GO by behind the development of Padmapriya Baskaran Lenin said as he signed off! sun with Usman Road forming (1921) – the outcome of non- Anna’s Left ideologies, while With T’ Nagar being less the baseline. Brahmins seeking equal oppor- translating his speeches into than a hundred years old, the Tamil. “He also introduced a Thirumalai Pillai, G. N. Chetty, walk was based on statues and money-lending bill which was and Venkatanarayana are other street signs. It was a great pre- ahead of its time, but it failed to Justice party leaders Lenin sentation and deserved a larger meet its objective” added spoke about and who have audience!! Maybe naming it Jaidev, his direct descendant. roads named after them in ‘The Birth of T’ Nagar’ would Their four-ground property on T’Nagar. He narrated how the make it more appealing to those Gopalakrishna Road was pur- Party moved from one for the who think of this as a mark only chased for Rs 500 when the lay- rich landlords to one for the about a political story. Two of outs were made, he stated. masses through the leadership the descendants of Paanagal Justice was the name of the of Periyar and Anna. He spoke Raja and Mayor Basudev at- newspaper run by the South In- about the internal bickering tended the walk along with At the Natesa Mudaliyar Park. dian Liberal Association, within the Justice Party and also their spouses, enthusiastically founded by Dr. T.M. Nair, Pitti tried to demystify popular be- reliving the history and offering Theyagaroya Chetty, and Dr. C. liefs that the party supported additional information about Natesa Mudaliar. The Party the British in return for titles their forefathers. From agraharam-s came to be referred to by the name of the newspaper it ran. to self-immolations Dr Nair ran a magazine called Once there was Madras Antiseptic in which he also pub- (Continued from page 8) Duraisamy Subway, according lished political ideas! Pitti now there is Chennai to Corporation records, is actu- Theyagaroya, a wealthy philan- The last stop was of course ally the Dheeran Sivalingam thropist, faced humiliation Once there was Madras, now we are Chennai. Amidst a the Public Health Centre, a Subway, pointed out Padma- when he was not allowed to plentitude of changes and challenges, some things have just not medical facility started as a priya. On the night of January climb up to the gopuram of a changed. On the city’s 378th birthday, here’s a celebration of small thatched hut which has 25, 1965, Sivalingam, who was temple despite making a gener- such small things that has kept alive the spirit of the city. Happy now emerged as a full-fledged just 21 years old, and working ous donation. He wanted to Madras Day! wrote GRT Hotels and Resorts on its Facebook. hospital with 150 beds and a with the Corporation of Madras, make access to temples open to MADRAS ESTD. 1639 cardiology section. We also committed self-immolation, all. Both Nair and Chetty, al- There existed Pilot, Casino and Safire passed by the deity Elliamma, protesting against the imposi- though initially differing in their Now exists Sathyam, Inox and Escape which is one of the seven fron- tion of Hindi. As he lived in outlooks, came together and Love for Cinema, unchanged! tier deities of the erstwhile Viswanathapuram, adjacent to met Natesa Mudaliar who had Mambalam village. The Telugu the railway gate, which gave way founded the Dravidian Associa- Good old Pallavan buses, suburban and MRTS trains. inscription nearby stands testi- to the subway in the late 1960’s, tion in 1912 to support the non- Newest kid, Chennai Metro, is born mony to the village having been it was named after him. Brahmin students with food The daily hustle continues a Reddy Zamindari village. and hostel facilities. Together, Aranganathan who went to During the course of the they created a Party that aimed When Spencer’s Plaza & Alsa Mall were the only malls. pay his last respects to walk, Padmapriya kept adding to uphold the rights of the non- Now there are plenty Sivalingam apparently decided details about other important Brahmins. What hasn’t changed is the love for shopping at T’Nagar. to follow him and committed landmarks in West Mambalam C.D. Nayagam, whose statue self-immolation the morning, From set dosai and vadacurry to barottas… which we couldn’t cover. Arya stands inside the T’ Nagar High recalls Priya. In a matter of 24 Now Pastas, Burritos and Fusion food Gowda Road has been named School, led the first anti-Hindi hours, seven people took their after Arya Gowda, a Badaga agitation in 1938 and came to What hasn’t changed is the ever popular Milagai Bajji by the beach lives protesting against the im- leader with political affiliations be called Sarvadhigari! He position of Hindi and this gave When the Theatres and Dramas were the audience’s delight to the Justice Party. He is sup- helped Periyar marry Maniam- jitters to the ruling Congress Now, we netflix and chill posed to have donated vast mai. Thiru.Vi.Ka used to bathe Party. Yet our Kutcheri season remains the unbeatable king! tracts of land in the West in the Long Tank every day! Mambalam area when the Jus- The walk, restricted by time, Some relief from Pachaiyappa There was Madras – now we are Chennai tice party was trying to create covered only a small part of Mudaliar bathing in the What hasn’t changed... new settlements. Two of the sub- Mambalam, we realised when it Cooum! Interestingly, history Is our Spirit! ways that connect T’ Nagar to ended only too soon. A longer has only documented bathing A City that gives West Mambalam are named af- walk is what Padmapriya should men! A City that nurtures ter men who self-immolated plan, when she can bring many Govi Lenin mentioned sev- A City that never ceases to amaze! themselves during the anti- more stories alive with her pas- eral other leaders of the Justice HAPPY MADRAS DAY Hindi agitation of 1965. The sion. Party, such as W.P.A. Sounda- 10 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2017

Working on radio archives is Mining Radio’s an exciting challenge for this team. “We will record all data that we can get”. “Even if we can only get part archives of the very old radio ming. Most of it is in good programmes, we will archive ll India Radio staff in shape, but some of the really old that and make it available for Chennai are digitising A data may be tough to process. our listeners,” says Muthusami. vintage concerts, popular radio “Magnetic tapes get worn If a recording is not commer- series and their interviews with out, parts go missing. We some- cially viable, it will still find a the famous. Select archival con- times have to track the staff spot on the website. One click tent is on sale and some is who worked on these recordings and you can listen to speeches, posted online. and piece the data together,” interviews and more. – (Cour- All India Radio (AIR) is says Muthusami, the Head, Ar- tesy: Mylapore Times.) making its rare audio material chivist. P. Arapalli in front of Chinnammal Sholai. available to the public. – Bama Ranganathan If you would like to listen to Sacred groves in Kolli sholas old concerts or speeches, you can buy archival CDs of AIR or (Continued from page 3) accommodating 304 settle- check out their website at ‘MISSING’ CEMETERY ments/villages in 14 pancha- www.prasarbharatiarchives.co.in his Ph.D. studying the biologi- yats. Only recently was it de- Prasar Bharathi has a five (Continued from page 4) the cemetery? As for the resi- cal and cultural diversity of the clared a revenue taluk. year project to collate and It is not clear as to who is in dents of Satyavanimuthu hills. MSSRF is one of the very The population in Kolli Hills digitise all its archives and make charge of the place. Is it the Nagar, it is clear that only the few agriculture and rural devel- consists mostly of Malayali it available to the public. “AIR Corporation? Or is it the Arme- presence of tombstones pre- opment organisations working tribals (translates to ‘people of has a lot of faithful listeners. nian diaspora? The latter has vents them from encroaching in the Kolli Hills, helping villag- the mountains’, and not to be Many people still tune in to our maintained their church in the upon the space. Chennai still ers strengthen their agricultural confused with the Malayalam- music programmes, quizzes, in- city in splendid fashion. Can the fears the dead. And thank God income and climate resilience. speaking people of Kerala formative features. Listener’s same generosity not extend to for that. “The sacred groves have deities State). According to the 2011 feedback shows a lot of interest that are from Saivite, Vaishna- Census, in Tamil Nadu, only in our old, and rare, vite and Amman cult worship 1.1% of the population are programmes and want this traditions. In addition, there is tribals. Among the districts, digitised and released in CD for- ancestor worship in places and Namakkal has a relatively high mat”, says Dr. G. Lalitha, who CHENNAI HERITAGE there are deities who would tribal population, which is 3.3% handles radio programming. have originally been Jain icons No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 of the district’s population of The local stations have con- in the past.” 17.26 million. In Kolli Hills, the trol over what to digitise and to There are more than 250 sa- I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List tribal population constitutes preserve. They get to decide No...... ) / I have just seen Madras Musings and cred groves in the Kolli Hills, 95.55% of the total of 40,479 what recordings would be worth would like to receive it hereafter. according to King. This is a high keeping, worth digitising. individuals. – (Courtesy: http:// G number considering that the The stations then convert I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for www.thenewsminute.com) Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI mountain block itself is only these programmes into digital 440 sq.km. in area (at the base), – S. Gopikrishna Warrier HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings files and send them to Chennai, for the year 2017-18. or if they don’t have the facility to do so, send the tapes for con- G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, Answers to Quiz version at the Chennai end. environment and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, On and off, Prasar Bharathi I send Chennai Heritage an additional 1. Tobacco, 2. ‘Gaj Yatra’, 3. called Bodyguard Lines. Hence Rs...... Prasoon Joshi, 4. Quit India the prefix! 12. Winners Bakery, releases these archived collec- (Rupees ...... ) Please Movement, 5. Gopalakrishna 13. Jagjivan Ram, 14. Indira tions in CD formats and sells keep/put me on your mailing list. Gandhi, 6. Bharat 22, 7. Prince Banerjee. The only two women them at their key stations. The Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, 8. Chief Justices of Madras High AIR website also hosts archival Name : ...... Paris Saint-Germain, 9. Baba Court, 15. Kattupakkam, 16. Kirk, material. Address: ...... Raghav Das Medical College, 10. 17. IIT Madras, 18. The statue of The Chennai station has Nehru Trophy Boat Race on the Queen Victoria outside the Uni- about 16,000 hours of record- ...... Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha. versity of Madras, which was un- ing. The Tiruchi radio station All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by * * * veiled on June 20, 1887, 19. 48, 20. also has many hours of program- Speed Post only. 11. Pallavan Salai was formerly Madras Naturalists’ Society.

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