DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. ISSN 1828-5961 Illyani Ibrahim Dr Illyani Ibrahim is an Assis- tant Professor in International Islamic University . She is a registered corporate member of Institution of Ge- ospatial and Remote Sensing Society (IFGRSM) and an asso- ciate member in Malaysia In- stitute of Planners. Her recent research interest focuses on the application of Geograph- ical Information System (GIS) and remote sensing in environ- mental analysis and cultural conservation of heritage.

Puteri Shireen Jahn Kassim An Associate Professor based at the Kulliyyah of Architec- ture and Environmental Design (KAED), International Islamic University Malaysia, and cur- rently based at the Applied Arts and Design programme. She is the main author of two recent books “The Resilience of Tradition” and “Modernity, Nation and Urban architectural Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka form”. She headed the archi- tecture and arts research clus- ter under the transdisciplinary grant (TRGS) by MOHE. This study discusses urbanism in pre-colonial Alias Abdullah Melaka city, focusing on pre-colonial Melaka city He is a Professor of Urban during the Malay Sultanate of Melaka. This study and Regional Planning at the aims to i) explore the urbanism of the pre-colo- International Islamic Universi- ty Malaysia (IIUM). He is also nial Melaka, and ii) study the matrix analysis of the Immediate Past President, pre-colonial Melaka. Data was gathered through Malaysian Institute of Planners secondary data content analysis drawn from pre- and a Registered Town Plan- vious works such as documented textual analyses ner with the Malaysian Board of Town Planners. His spe- and lithographs. The results demonstrate that cialization lies in the field of pre-colonial Melaka urbanism is characterised Urban and Regional Planning, by sustainable traditional urban forms such as Urban Design, Heritage and palatial fort, mosques, market, settlements, and Conservation, Municipal Man- agement as well as GIS, CAD padang. Furthermore, the close proximity from and SPDSS. the palace to the estuary and bridge reflects the idea that a palace serves as a defence building, centre of administration, and royal residence. Observations of pre-colonial Melaka urbanism Keywords: shows a degree of city planning, reflecting that pre-colonial Melaka; Malay Peninsula; urbanism; sustainable and natural growth is embedded in physical form; planning. the Melaka Sultanate era. http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.2 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

1. INTRODUCTION the surviving Angkor and Majapahit, which are broadly known as the vestiges of a temple-based Urbanism is defined as “the characteristic way of civilisation. Yet, less is known of the ‘negri’ (state) life of city dwellers” or “the study of the physical or maritime-based cities such as Melaka; of their needs of urban societies’ (Wirth, 1938). With re- urban forms or patterns, cultural lifestyles, and gard to the definitions, this study observed from landscapes. the perspective of physical structure such as pop- Malay urban form constitutes several elements of ulation base, technology, and ecological order. conventional urban form such as fort and stock- There are several urbanism theories by earlier ade. During the era of Malay Kingdom, it was the scholars. Aristotle’s Politics described the num- centre of administration for the Malay rulers (Ha- ber of inhabitants beyond a specific limit will af- run & Jalil, 2014). The administrative centre is an fect the relationships between the inhabitants and area with administrative offices, residences of the the character of the town. A situation as such will noblemen, and palaces of the ruler. Harun and encourage individuals with different personalities Jalil (2014) underlined the characteristics of Ma- and background to interact with each other, caus- lay urban form; i) the locations of the Malay forts ing a probable gap between cultures, background, were close to rivers and hills; ii) mosques were and local. Meanwhile, the theory of Durkheim by essential landmarks in the city centres, iii) pal- Young (1962) suggested that an increase in density aces were built overlooking wide open spaces or tends to cause differentiation and specialisation squares. Fig. 1 - Territories of the Melaka Empire Sultanate within the population. Density has forced men to di- In the past, town similarly referred to fort (Harun versify their activities and increased the complexi- & Jalil, 2014). The term fort has numerous mean- To maintain a harmonious town, respects were ties social structure. Wirth (1938), an urban ecolo- ings depending on the sentence and the context of of paramount importance. Such a multicultural gist, claimed that urbanism is a response towards use (Nasir, 1993). In those days, a fort was a city community provided a colourful and unique legacy urban condition, either economic or functional. or state (Harun & Jalil, 2014). ‘Fort’ was also the of buildings that represented different traditions. He explained that a functional city affected the centre of administration, as it was in Melaka and Wiryomartono (2011) accounted that the tradi- density of a population; a more densely populat- . Apart from that, fort also referred tional urban core in the Malay world to be geo- ed and heterogeneous community will emphasise to the centre of defence, which was usually sur- graphically featured with two settings; Negara the characteristics of urbanism in the community. rounded with cannons and tombs as it was in Per- Kota (State City) –a feudal agricultural monarchy Scholars have different views on the theory of ak and . According to Reid (2015a), there are located in an inland area surrounded by agricul- urbanism. Urban form is defined by three funda- three types of fort; i) walled cities with a palace in tural communities, and Bandar (City)– a maritime mental physical elements; buildings, open spaces, the centre, many temples and streets, the market city with international trade as its core activities. plots or lots and streets, which can be understood is outside the walls, for example, Buddhism cit- These are centres that grew from the necessi- at different level of resolution (Moudon, 1997). ies, ii) walled only for royal palace, in Archipela- ties and efficiencies of trade, yet they still reflect With regards to the determinants of man-made go area, and iii) the market is central with large erased urbanism. The characteristics of urban- urban form, the focus is on a human intervention squares, palace is to the south, mosque is to the ism were lost due to the successive layering of that had influenced the shape of the urban form. west, particularly in Islamic cities such as colonial-linked patterns, leaving only a palimp- There are a number of human-made determi- and Bentan. In Melaka Sultanate, it was a combi- sest of the vernacular. The Malay urbanism pat- nants, such as the economy (trade), politics, reli- nation of (ii) and (iii). tern remains one of the lesser-discussed urban gions, defence, mobility, social power, and ethical In the Malay Peninsula, urbanism is the process of forms and landscapes. This particular urbanism issues (Morris, 1994). cultural integration towards a multicultural socie- is rooted in maritime route patterns and econom- Decades before the Melaka Sultanate period, ty, mixing lifestyle, tradition, and other character- ic growth, which grew and evolved from the re- urbanism in the South East Asia territories has istics (Wiryomartono, 2011). For example, in Mel- gions’ geographical, cultural, and political roots. focused on the ‘nagara-based’ (country-based) aka, the diversity of multiculturalism began since The type and meaning of urbanism in a Southeast civilisations. This particular focus links urban the earlier stage of Melaka Sultanate, as many Asian cultural context must arise from within in- planning, form, and cultural landscapes with the cultures met at the same geographical point for digenous influence, rather than external intro- temple and ceremonial-based centres, such as trading purposes. A cultural collision occurred. duction. There is also a contention that the cities

http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.3 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

are crucial for tourism promotion and urban devel- The Malay Peninsula encompasses the whole ar- opment, in addition to being a part of one’s history. eas from Johor up to . Figure 1 shows the There is yet to be a variety of research done on territories of Melaka Empire Sultanate during historical urban form in Melaka. The urban histor- their Golden Age between the years of 1405 to ical field in Malaysia is primarily fragmented; only 1511. This map shows the territories under the several historical periods are studied while the control of Melaka Sultanate, including the Straits rest are ignored. Such a fragmented approach led of Melaka that separates Malay Peninsular from to an array of inconclusive information. This pa- the Indonesian island of Sumatera. It should be per intends to clarify that there were patterns and explained that the use of ‘urban’ refers to Mela- conscious attempt to plan and reorder the mari- ka town in the coastal area only, which does not time city. In addition, the pattern of culture such include the hinterland areas. During Melaka Sul- as markets is also described based on historical tanate, Melaka town includes Kuala Linggi to the sources such as hikayat (folklore). All in all, this hinterland and Kuala Kesang, which are also the Fig. 2 - Map configuration of Melaka in 1500s (Copyright: Kamariah paper discuss Melaka urbanism during Melaka limits of the city of Melaka (Pires, 1944). Kamaruddin, 2018). Sultanate -from 12th CE to 15th CE. The objectives According to Zheng He, the population of Mela- of this study are twofold: (i) to explore the urban- ka in 1403 was around 2000. This was supported of Asia undergo urbanisation without urbanism. ism and cultural of the pre-colonial Melaka, and ii) by Pires (1944). During the installation of Megat Evers & Korf (2000) highlighted that current local to prepare on the matrix analysis of pre-colonial Iskandar at Melaka in 1414, the population was developments should refer to the patterns of the Melaka. Documented local and non-local texts of at 6000. A statement from d’Albuquerque stated past for their urban policy and decisions. historical studies related to the structure of Mela- that in 1511, there were one hundred thousand A city is comprised of urban tissue (Oliveira, Bar- ka were described in this study. people living in the “city and the suburbs”. The bosa & Pinho, 2011). In other words, it is organic; it statement shows that in 1511, there were five corresponds to different levels of resolutions and 2. STUDY AREA thousand and thirteen thousand individuals per various elements of urban form (Korff, 2009). A square kilometre in Melaka urban area, which had good resolution level will show better morpholog- Of the various Malay indigenous cities that strad- a total area of between seven to eleven square ical detail. For example, a low-level urban tissue dle the land and sea of the region, Melaka remains kilometres (Mcroberts, 1991). As well-measured will only include streets and street block while a a model and source to investigate indigenous pat- by Reid (2015), there were about 6.5 people per higher level will describe features, including the terns. Melaka is located in the southwest coast of household, thus 307 houses in 1403, approximate- material of buildings. With regard to this study, it the Malay Peninsula and is formed by a narrow ly 900 houses in 1414, and approximately 15,000 will only include low-level urban tissue and four choke-point at the Straits of Melaka. Tomé Pires houses in 1511. elements of urban form: building, land use, street, (1944) described how Melaka was an important According to Pires, “people began to come from and open space, due to limited sources. trading city during the particular time: “ the Aru side and from other places, men such as Furthermore, this paper also discussed the cul- is a city that is made for merchandise, better than Celates robbers and also fishermen, in such num- tures that existed during the Melaka Sultanate. In- all other [cities] on earth, the end of some mon- bers that three years after his coming Malacca was tangible cultural values include language and cus- soons and the beginning of others. It is surround- a place with two thousand inhabitants”. The Melaka tom, while the tangible aspects include buildings ed and lies in the middle, and the trade and com- Sultanate was a powerful institution in Southeast or any physical artefacts. The United Nations Edu- merce between the various nations for a thousand Asia. Several states became its vassals, such as cational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UN- leagues on either side must come to Malacca”. Ac- -Lingga, Sumatra, , Sungai Ujung, Jer- ESCO) defined cultural heritage as the legacy of cording to Fernand Braudel, “[…] geography was am, Langat, Inderagiri, Palembang, Jambi, Ungga, physical artefacts and intangible values inherited certainly responsible for a good deal of Melaka’s Tungkal, Siantan, Brunei, Beruas, Bentan, Kampar, from past generations and maintained in the pres- story”. Melaka lay on the maritime channel con- and Siak. The Melaka Sultanate was responsible for ent for the benefit of future generations. Dinardi necting the waters of the Indian Ocean to those of the security of these vassals. For example, Melaka (2015) explained that culture is the language spo- the China seas, protecting ships from monsoons. sent an army to help Pahang and Beruas when they ken in a particular region, expressing the distinc- It is also situated between the seaways from India were attacked by Ligor and Manjung (Hadi, 1992). tion among the fine arts, and social bonds, and is and China, and also connects the Penarikan to the Figure 2 shows the town plan of Melaka in 1500. constitutive of the national identity. Cultural values -Pahang waterways. Melaka was divided by the main river, namely Sun-

http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.4 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

gai Melaka, into two important parts; the right di- pansion of Chinese trade under the Ming emper- build a fortress in Melaka. It was denied, causing vision was the administration areas - the palace of ors and Muslim patronage from Portuguese to attack Melaka. The war continued Melaka and mosque - while the left division was a conversion into Islam. Ming dynasties aimed to for 40 days, and in the end, the Portuguese won. mixed-use area. These areas were connected by a place Southeast Asia under its tributary system After the ruling of Portuguese in Melaka, the root bridge. The two main districts were recognised as due to Southeast Asia’s entrepot fast develop- of Melaka spread to Johor, , and Pahang. Upeh and Banda Hilir. Upeh was mainly for com- ment. Following this idea, great expeditions under The royal of Melaka (Sultan Mahmud Syah) had mercial and residential areas, while Banda Hilir Admiral Zheng He was employed in the early fif- escaped to Johor and built their kingdom in Muar, was mainly for administration. The hinterland ar- teenth century. Zheng He arrived and conducted Johor. His descendants (Sultan Muzaffar Syah) eas are orchards or ‘dusun’ in the Malay language. business in Melaka, such as bringing in roof tiles was sent to Perak as the first Sultanate in Perak. from China to be used on the roof of Melaka’s roy- On the other side, the ruler of Pahang, Sultan Ah- 3. BACKGROUND OF MELAKA al palace (Sandhu, 1961). mad Syah, was also a descendant of Melaka; the As Melaka felt unsafe after being hit by Siamese son from the marriage of Sultan Mahmud Syah The original inhabitants in Melaka were fisher- several times, the Sultan asked for China pro- and the Pahang princess. The man, also known as ‘Orang Laut’ (Sea People). tection. The earliest date of Ming Annals, on the attempted several times to reclaim Melaka from A historical Javanese poem mentioned Melaka deployment of a Chinese envoy to Melaka, was Portuguese, but in 1641, the Dutch had seized Mel- in 1324, and it was mentioned again within a list 1403 and corresponded with the rise of the polity aka from Portuguese. In 1824, the British seized of Siamese dependencies in 1360 (Widodo, 2008). in Melaka. Zheng He, between 1405 and 1433, ac- Melaka from Dutch. The British had maintained Melaka was founded by Parameswara, a Srivijaya tively travelled to spread Islam and was involved the traditional class divisions; rural were prince from Temasek in 1402. He urged the villag- in the politics of Java and Maritime (Sen, 2009). farmers, while Chinese and Indian immigrants ers to trade products and other goods and plant In exchange for protection, the Sultan offered a were pushed into economic development efforts. crops (Hoyt, 1993). He was finally known as Sultan warehouse to China to store their goods in Mela- A discovery by Ismail et al. (2012) on the establish- Iskandar Shah after embracing Islam in 1414. As ka entreport. Consequently, Melaka was the first ment new date of the Melaka Malay Sultanate is Melaka was located in the coastal areas, it be- foreign nation to receive the emperor’s inscrip- 1262 by comparing many historical accounts. came prominent as an international trading port tion (Suryadinata, 2005), indicating that Melaka From this analysis, the Malay Sultanate existed and as the centre for Islamic learning and dis- was under Ming’s tributary protection. The Sultan from 1262 to 1511, during the glory of Melaka Sul- semination. The population increased to two thou- of Melaka had travelled several times to China to tanate and before the arrival of Portuguese. This sand and Melaka began its transformation into the visit the Emperor, demonstrating a close relation- study is important to understand urbanism during most important port. ship between Melaka and China during that time. Melaka golden years. Figure 3 shows the timeline It achieved its status as an extremely impor- Nonetheless, after 1435, Zheng He no longer con- of the Malay Peninsula from the glory of Melaka tant entrepot in Southeast Asia due to its Islam- tinued his voyages as the later reign underwent a until Melaka was conquered by the British. ic system and its diplomatic ties with China. The 400 year long shutting down period. prosperity of Melaka was based mainly on trade. In 1509, the Portuguese Admiral Diego Lopes de 4. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY Melaka had developed excellent facilities for the Sequeira visited Melaka to make a trade com- traders, including warehouses, lodging, and offi- pact. The visit was warmly welcomed by Sul- In this study, relevant secondary sources were cials that provided fair and efficient administra- tan Mahmud, but over time, several Portuguese reviewed in addition to published historical books, tion. The rulers of Melaka established a well-or- people were killed and jailed. The Portuguese articles, and journals (fig. 4). This study uses syn- dered commercial centre with all the necessary returned to Goa, and then back to Melaka with a chronic and diachronic reading of a literature re- facilities for international trade. Apart from that, massive army in 1511, requesting permission to view to understand the urban form during the Sul- Melaka was the central meeting ground where Indian, Chinese, and Indonesian merchants met Fig. 3 - The timeline of Melaka Sultanate to exchange wares. Though Melaka had virtually no products of its own to sell, it was a practical meeting ground for the Arab, Indian, Chinese, and Indonesian merchants. The internal factor lied in its excellent geograph- ical position, and the external factor was the ex-

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tanate era. A cross-disciplinary reviews of social, world. Another author, Emanual Godinho (1613), 6. BEFORE AND AFTER ISLAM IN MELAKA culture, polity and urban areas was done to gather was a Melaka-born Portuguese cartographer writ- a comprehensive understanding this city. Lithog- ing in the 16th Century, had recorded the existence Although Melaka grew from decentralizing ‘negeri’ raphy that were drawn by Portuguese accounts of a well-ordered law, which was based on Islamic (state) and maritime-based polity, the aspects of its were collected and used in this research. law. Castanheda (n.d.) described the merchants pre-Islamic traditional patterns in its urban cores The historical method using textual analysis was in Melaka as very rich, and the richness can be remain. Amongst others were borderlines and used in this research consisted of historical docu- measured by gold. Similarly, D’Albuquerque had gates. The core of the city was initially seen as the mented texts from local, Portuguese, and Chinese noted that the custom, commerce, and develop- seat of cosmological power, the navel of the world. authors. For Portuguese and Chinese in particu- ment of Melaka were prosperous and luxurious, Of symbolic importance, the seat of the ruler rep- lar, the documented texts were written after the and it was a powerful empire and the centre of Is- resents the source of spiritual power. Manifested occurrence of the events; in other words, the texts lamic development in Southeast Asia. Pires (1944) and architecturally articulate with the most sacred were reports of events. Note that past compre- wrote: “[…] and true it is that this part of the world place of the whole area of Negara, the palace as hensive works are scarcely available. Literature is richer and more prized than the world of the the seat of the ruler was not always represented narratives were also used as a source, as in the Indies, because the smallest merchandise here by the most monumental and elaborated building Malay narratives, many events are described in is gold, which is least prized, and in Melaka they in the state, but by the most of sacred and myste- classical sentences and ‘pantun’ (Malay poem). consider it merchandise [...] in Melaka they prize rious domain of the city. The city wall defined the Most of the works describe the culture of the past garlic and onions more than musk, bepzoin and transition between the in and outside of Negara. or arts that belong to a historical tradition, with other precious things”. The gateway denoted the point of entry with specif- some were written based on the oral story from It should also be mentioned that the locals in ic treatment for practical and symbolic purpose. In the people who lived in a particular village. Fol- Melaka were of Malay ethnicity, and were the Melaka, the gateway was the bridge, in which Syah- lowing these observations, a content analysis of stimulus for the formation of the new ethnic bandar were placed for tax payment. It was also documented texts from urban planning perspec- categories of ‘Orang Laut’ and aboriginals (An- Melaka’s first point of entry. The Negara was seen tive was carried out to evaluate the urban form daya, 2008). The continuous stream of trad- as a symbolic centre of the cosmos built upon the and urbanism of a historical event. ers coming in Melaka created different cul- cosmological mandala model that was located in ture from many areas; a multiculturism, the the hinterland. It was also located at an ample ge- 5. DOCUMENTATION OF MELAKA BEFORE 1511 result of many cultures living at a trading port. ographical setting, either at the symmetrical order The only available data is lithography and the doc- of the Hindu cosmological ideas or at a visual ori- Based on a documented text from the Portuguese umented text on the description of Melaka explo- entation. The Negara was also placed at the plain experience during Melaka Sultanate, Duarte Bar- ration was written by Portuguese and Chinese. areas between great valleys and river confluence. bosa explained that Melaka was a well-known port The documentation from a Chinese writer, Ma After the arrival of Islam, Reid (2015b) described during those days: “[…] the richest trading port and Huan, who travelled to Melaka between 1413 and that Melaka rose as a maritime city and an Islam- possesses the most valuable merchandise, and 1415 was also used in this research. Several local ic centre. Certain character and remnants of the the most numerous shipping and extensive traffic documents were also found, but they have a very ‘nagara’ remain despite maritime centres were that is known in all the world”. Since Melaka was limited explanation of the urbanism in Melaka. often projected without a clear pattern, were or- a strategic place for strong monsoon protection, Figures 5 and 6 shows a lithography drawn by Por- ganic and random. The urban Melaka urban form traders usually waited at the port for the end of tuguese during the visit of Lopez de Sequire in Mel- began to take place during the transition from the monsoon season. The communities then es- aka in 1509. A minaret towers, masjid and two and Buddhism to Islamic culture. The Southeast Asian tablished ports for traders to exchange goods, find three tier buildings can be seen from this piece. polities before the 14th CE were generally credited local products, and repair ships (Andaya, 2008). Mansel Longworth Dames (1921) explained Bar- bosa, a sailor had arrived at Melaka which had Fig. 4 - Methodology of the research recently been conquered by the Portuguese when he wrote. Barbosa in Mansel Longworth Dames (1921) described Melaka as a prosperous, wealthy, and well-known port. Melaka also described to have many golds and was the richest nation in the

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Fig. 6 - Lithography (see Fig 5) zoomed to show the masjid (mosque), mina- ret towers and several tall buildings opposite to the shore (n.d)

Fig. 5 - Melaka 1509 - from Portuguese sources, lithograph the arrival of Diego Lopes de Sequeira (n.d)

as a ‘negara’ (country) form in which there were lay realm, irrespective of their religion, traditions lam was the idea of equality in Islam (Ishak & Ab- a sacred centre and mandala (Earth) or cardinal or sub-ethnicities, had embraced the traditions dullah, 2012), which claims that all individuals are layout. Tarling (2008) stated: “Majapahit and Bubat and rites in their culture. Mahkota Iskandar Syah equal in the eyes of Allah, the One God in Islam. is a market city located on a wide plain. The Ne- conversion to Islam was one of the reasons for Islamic institutions such as ‘surau’, mosque, and garakertagama mentioned a cosmopolitan city of the rapid spread of the religion, and it occurred madrasah have strengthened and enhanced ex- many quarters with a square market, surrounded around 1414. Before embracing Islam, they lived isting customs and traditions with more intensive on three sides by tall buildings, with a character of based on the Hindu caste system, which was lat- gatherings and collaborations that built a strong a ritual capital due to a relationship with monar- er assimilated into Malay traditional life (Suryani community in Pre-colonial Melaka (Wiryomar- chy with prominence as sacred centre and place et al., 2012). The acceptance of Islam in Melaka tono, 2011). Moreover, Ma Huan had explained of festival celebration[…]”. Such architecture had significantly influenced the Malay lifestyle the way of life of people in Melaka; the religion was similar to the patterns in Angkor: “temples and culture in Malay towns. The main factor that of people in Melaka was Islam, worshipped god, aligned East-West and North-South purposely to enabled the Sultanate of Melaka to increase the and recited the Quran with a simple tradition. As project the image of heaven on Earth”. prestige and influence of Malay culture was the early as the 1440s, Melaka had adopted the ‘jawi’ According to Alwi (2001), the cultural system ex- Islamic teachings itself (Andaya & Andaya, 1982). script; Malay language written in Arabic charac- isted since the pre-Islamic era, and the whole Ma- Another factor that encouraged the spread of Is- ters (Lowey-ball, 2015).

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7. THE URBAN FORM OF MELAKA

Fort was one of the essential elements of urban form. The construction of a fort was vital because the facility served as an administration and de- fence centre. Megat Iskandar Shah built a palace on top of St. Paul Hills. It is important to know if there was any fence or fort built around the palace complex in Malacca, in the Sejarah Melayu men- tioned that “[…]then Sultan Ahmad stay in Ben- tayan, Peringgi (Portuguese) stay in Melaka, and they made pagar ruyung of the palace as a fort[…]” – the Portuguese rebuilt the remains of the pagar ruyung wall palace as the fort. The pagar ruyung are the walls that surround the main complex of the palace in Melaka. Pagar ruyung were of stone materials because the Portuguese town was built from these materials, including mosques as well as tombstones in the complex of royal tombs (Na- sir, 1990). The pagar ruyung of Melaka, or fort of Melaka, which was guarded by armed warriors at the time, was comprised of administrative, pala- tial, mosque, sentry towers, and royal residences complexes. One study found the existence of ad- ministrative area, mosque, shops, settlement, riv- ers and streets, agricultural area, and graveyards in Melaka (Ibrahim et al., 2018). As Megat Iskandar Shah embraced Islam in 1414, another significant mosque called Masjid Jamek was built close to the palace. Report by Castan- heda “From the mouth of the Sungai Melaka and Fig. 7 - Lithography depicted a group of people with elephants at the open spaces in front of the palace that surrounded with stonewall, during the arrival of facing east (inland), a sailor would see the sul- Diego Lopes de Sequeira (n.d). tan’s palace complex extending down the right- hand side. This was the southern quarter, where principally by the sea-side […] Bukit Sina (Cina), The quote shows an extensive text document that nobility lived. Behind it loomed a large hill with a hill with a smaller, less wealthy secondary Chi- demonstrates the urban form of the city along vistas over the river and harbour […] Looking left, nese settlement atop it, was behind the strip of the river of Melaka. Widodo (2008) described that an early visitor would have seen the walled Chi- houses on the riverbank. Meanwhile, to the north ‘rumah panggung’(vernacular stilt houses) was nese settlement established for sailors attached - that is, on our imaginary sailor’s left-hand side clustered at the base of the hill, and on the oth- to the Zheng He’s missions[…]Further down the - the main Chinese community eventually gave er side of Melaka River, another settlement was Sungai Melaka, one reached Malacca’s second way to a Javanese quarter, and then to random developed. Hamka (2016) also mentioned that the market quarter, on the right-hand side of the riv- suburbs occupied chiefly by Malays. This, in turn houses were aligned with the coast of Melaka. In er behind the royal complex (as things would be gave way to the jungle. Beyond that, our boatman 1403, Ma Huan explained that the houses were viewed from the harbour). Further on, after the would come to villages of fisherman and, very far like rooftop houses about four yards high, on river took a sharp curve to the left, the bazaar down the river, to the various garden estates kept which there was no board and roofed with thatch. gave way to large numbers of Malay houses built as an escape by many of Malacca’s most impor- The houses in Melaka have been described in de- to face the water. These houses “are of wood, and tant noblemen”. tail in Portuguese sources.

http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.8 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

In addition, the Portuguese sources (Mansel Longworth Dames, 1921) explained that Upeh was also a commercial area. There were also hous- es and subterranean storehouses, or room built partly on the ground and under the ground (Birch, 1774). From these statements, we can understand that Upeh was an area with shops and houses or mixed-used areas. This area was a residential area and was a part of the defence area, as it was located in the coastal area. The Malay populations lived in various villages and settlement surround- ing the royal palace and palace. The elites lived on the hill whereas the commoners occupied the lowlands. Ibrahim et al. (2020) identified the en- trepot, commercial centre, the royal city centre and the neighbourhood, which are indicative of a clustered linear layout strung along both sides of the river bank. As a further precaution, Parameswara had built his residence upstream from Melaka, at Bertam. He did so that he could receive ample warning of any impending attack and could then flee to the safety of the interior (Andaya, 2008). Although Par- ameswara’s successors maintained a residence on Melaka Hill, they lived for the most part in Bertam, going to Melaka only to settle disputes or dispense justice (Andaya, 2008). Iskandar Syah asked his fa- ther’s (Parameswara) permission to settle in Mel- aka Hillm, and he built his house on top of the hill where the Kings of Melaka had their dwelling. The palace of Sultan Mansur Syah was built in 1460, and the spaces inside the palace –‘Penanggahan’ Fig. 8 - Lithography depicted activities at the open spaces in front of the fort. A walled fort was elevated from the lower to hilly areas (n.d). (kitchen), ‘Istana besar’ (palace proper), ‘surau’ (mosque), ‘pemandian’ (bathing and ablution area), ‘balairong’ (throne room), ‘nobat’ (royal musical Portuguese[…]”. Sulaiman, Shamsuddin, Norbi- they followed the south-east direction. This obser- ensemble hall), ‘balai apit pintu’ (audience hall), enna, & Anwar (2007) explained that the fort of vation was consistent with the finding by Sulaiman ‘balai mendapa’ (outer hall of audience) and ‘balai’ Melaka was square-shaped. The orientation of et al. (2007) and JahnKassim, Ibrahim, Harun, & (hall)– were located on the top of the hill. Several the palace of Melaka was highly debated among Kamaruddin (2018). Meanwhile, Harun and Jalil questions were raised from this; i) what was the earlier researchers. Noor (2013) claimed that the (2014) explained that Parameswara built his pal- form of Melaka Sultanate fort? and ii) what was the orientation of the palace was at the north-east, in ace on a hill overlooking the Bertam River estuary, orientation of the Melaka Sultanate palace? the direction of Melaka Town, and argued that the which was in the south-east direction. Several authors had discussed on the form of the palace should be orientated to the city of Melaka. These authors provided a consistent orientation of fort. The Book of Duerte Barbosa by Dames (1921) Noor also added that the hilly topography facing the palace of Melaka but with a different angle. For has explained “forthwith a very fine fortress was the coastal area was too steep, making it difficult this argument, we should refer to the Portuguese built there, which with the city and all the trade to reach the palace. Nevertheless, the earlier ver- sources. Castanheda (1582) and De Barros (1706) thereof and its navigation remained subject to the sion of Sulalatus Salatin (1979) mentioned that explained in the report that the Portuguese had

http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.9 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

positioned his ship right from the bridge and shot ered bridge, and market-place of twenty pavilions the cannon directly to the mosque many times. where commodities of all goods were sold. It con- Text by Albuquerque “[…]to set fire to the king’s nected these two areas which were on opposite houses which stood at the side of the mosque”. sides of the river and were located near the har- Since the palace was located on the hill and the bour in the estuary. People were also conducting mosque was at the foothill, the palace was orien- businesses along the roads, and some of them tated directly to the mosque and the bridge. As conducted business in front of their houses. The mosque was located opposite to the palace, these market was clustered along the streets and the two buildings were diminished due to the continu- river (Emanual Godinho, 1930). There was one ous attack from the enemy. Adil explained […] The event, written by Tun Sri Lanang, when they tried bridge which joined the southern part, where the to align the shops to be straight by using the rope. palace and the administration centre were locat- The arrangement of the shops was not organic, ed, to the northern part, the commercial centre, but it was planned by the authority. was the first target of the Portuguese”. Thus, from As to the market in Melaka, quoted from Ma Huan the sources of the textual documents and maps “Oxen, goats, fowls and ducks, although they have provided from authors, we conclude that the pal- them, are not plentiful: prices are very dear; (and) ace should be located on the Melaka Hill, at the one of their water-buffaloes costs more than one Fig. 9 - Designation of Melaka as UNESCO World Heritage, inserted the south-east direction, directly to the bridge. chin of silver. No donkeys and horses are seen”. Replica Melaka Sultanate Palace (UNESCO, 2007). Another important element of an ancient Malay This statement shows that many of the goods town was a mosque. This mosque was built at were livestock. For commercial wise, Melaka was omartono, 2014). ‘Padang’ was also used to play the riverbank of the Melaka River. The mosque one of the port city specifically used by the trad- games such as ‘sepak raga’, making it an impor- was located opposite to the palace, indicating the ers. The Muslim and Chinese traders met at city tant recreational and meeting sites for the people, importance of Islam to the ruler. Another source ports such as Melaka, Ayudha, and Gresik to ex- thus an important element of a cultural and social (Castanheda, 1582) claimed that the mosque site change items (Alatas, 1997). Markets were located landscape. The hinterland area consisted mostly of was located inside areas, while Tomé along or at the mouth of the river, at the beach, agricultural area which was found to be dispersed. Pires in Suma Oriental mentioned that the Portu- and along the roads. Several laws in Melaka were Agricultural areas were located at the suburban guese constructed their fortress (Fortaleza) with also documented; for example, The Melaka Law area 12 to 16 km ahead, mostly covered with large a 5 stories tower on the site of a mosque. The and The Port Law (Liaw & Sarumpaet, 2011). In orchards, beautiful meadows, or pastures for live- mosque was also called Masjid Raya, and was the addition, the markets in cities became the centre stock and rice fields under cultivation (Pinto, 2011). main focal point of Islamic social activities. Both of movements, easy access to land and waterways. A river system can be identified as the main form traders and locals visited this mosque to pray. The The market was also a meeting point of different of transportation in old Malay cities because all mosque and several other buildings were made identities/ethnicities for conducting business. Ma of the historical forts were located near the river. of stone; some of them were wooden houses with Huan also stated that the warehouses were locat- Melaka as an important port used the sea and riv- a roof made of thatch (Yusof, 2017); and some of ed at the left side of the bridge. The warehouse was er as the main transportation route for trading, for the houses were made of stone and ‘kapur’. The wooden palisade like a castle, with four gates and moving from one to another, and for living. It was identification of the palace and mosque material watchtowers, or warehouses near the harbour. It also recorded that there was a principal street during Sultanate era also can be referred to the was built to safe-guard the goods of the traders. leading to the bridge (Barros, n.d.) and the coast- text “The Portuguese fort was built by pulling Open space or ‘Padang’ was important in Melaka al area (Gaspar Correia, 1496). The down the houses of the people and the mosques Sultanate. The main ‘padang’ was located just next also recorded that there was a four-junction road and the other existing buildings during the period” to the mosque. It was also located in front of the located in the middle of the city (Tun Sri Lanang, (Loureiro, 2008). Malay Sultanate palace (Harun & Said, 2008). ‘Pa- n.d.). A planned road network and well-arranged The bridge was located in the middle of Kota Mel- dang’ was the area for the people to have a meeting bridges were built in the Melaka city to connect aka, specifically at the foothill of Bukit Melaka. with the Sultan. The best location of the mosque the roads, which were separated by the river (Yu- Castanheda (1582) explained that the bridge was that needs open area (‘padang’) for a large outdoor sof, 2017). These documented texts show that close to the mosque. During that time, the bridge congregation, state ceremonies, rituals, and annu- Melaka had a planned road network, especially at played an important role in Melaka. It was a cov- al celebrations for Raya Ied, and Raya Adha (Wiry- the town areas.

http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.10 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

The land transportation mainly used elephants it was struck by lightning. The Malay Sultanate matrix of urbanism analysis during the Melaka (Hashim, 1989), and most literature of Melaka Water Wheel was built near to Melaka river that Sultanate era. Firstly, the urbanism structure dur- narrate the use of the river as their main trans- describe about the successful of Malay Sultanate ing the glory of Melaka Sultanate was planned for portation. The main transportation for the people as an international port in the world. During those a certain extent. For example, the roads located and Sultan was by the river or sea, at which trad- times, the water wheel was functioned to set the at the market areas were planned using the rope ers’ activities also took place. The street trans- water level as it was visited around two thousands system, making the road linear. The second point portation such as Melaka, elephants were used to of ships from over the world (Yusof, 2017). is that the Malay Sultanate of Melaka town was carry belongings from the rural to the banks of made of four basic elements; the palace, mosque, the river, which the goods were then transported 9. MATRIX ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION OF UR- market, and ‘padang’. These elements were through barges and boats on the river or the sea. BANISM OF MELAKA SULTANATE surrounded by the settlements of the town and River systems according to Gullick were the ear- were linked with the roads. These elements also ly nascent states; based on a dendritic system, A matrix analysis was extracted from the reviews obeyed the Islamic principles of urban areas - that the Sultan controlled all trade up-stream at the of urbanism in Melaka Sultanate (Refer to Ta- mosques are the centre of the Islamic city. Thirdly, mouth of the river. Melaka town is also complete ble 2). The analysis is divided into several urban Melaka town was divided according to races. The with trenches (Zainuddin, 1961). spaces or buildings; palace, masjid, fort, harbour, traders or immigrants, those from Arabs, Per- bridge, transportation system, ‘padang’/open sian and Chinese, were located in one area called 8. MELAKA IN PRESENT spaces, market/commercial area and settlement. Upeh. Malays were located at Banda Hilir, Jawa In summary, the following points emerge from the at Kampung Jawa; Gujerati lived near the ports. Melaka and George Town has been developed as a historic city that received a status as World Her- itage Site in July 2008 by UNESCO, becoming Ma- laysia’s first cultural World Heritage Site (WHS) property. Below is the map of the inscribed prop- erty and buffer zone of the historic city of Melaka. One particular approach by institution to recreat- ing a nostalgic version of the Melaka urban fabric which has been erased throughout the centuries was the development of replica of the Melaka Sul- tanate Palace and Malay Sultanate Water Wheel at the side of Melaka river. The replica of Melaka Sultanate Palace was built according to the his- torical relics of the Melaka Sultanate Palace have been rebuilt from the viewpoint of the literature “Sulalatus Salatin”, in order to reminisce on the greatness of Melaka and the uniqueness of the Malay traditional culture in the 15th century, using traditional construction techniques and materials (Siti Nurmasturah Harun et al., 2020). The palace originally located on top of St. Paul Hills. According to the annals, Sultan Mansur Shah’s seven-tiered palace was built entirely without nails and sup- ported with carved, wooden pillars and featured a copper and zinc roof. The most elaborate roy- al palace ever constructed in the world in 1459. The annals also stated that it was destroyed the year after the sultan ascended the throne when Fig. 10 - Replica of Melaka Sultanate Palace as decrypted in Sulalatus Salatin (Majlis Bandaraya Melaka Bersejarah, 2020)

http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21 DISEGNARECON volume 13/ n. 25 - December 2020 TRAVELING FROM THE ORIENT TO THE WEST AND RETURN. IBRAHIM - KASSIM - ABDULLAH 21.11 ISSN 1828-5961 Patterns of physical form of a Malay-rooted Urbanism in historical Melaka

is perhaps the separation between the commercial The current river has been embanked but the ac- heart and the administrative heart by the river, in- tual scene of the river can be seen in this attach- cluding the separation between the harbour, ship ment, in which boats could easily be docked and or galleons building enclave and zone and the more a ground-level which seems ‘open’ with ‘kolong’ peaceful localised palace and administrative cen- character rather than totally masonry. Thus, un- tre. There would have been certain peak periods of derstanding the elements of urbanism during trading activity and ship building activity (as per oth- pre-colonial Melaka can be used for the urban er port cities) which would have attracted the pop- planning process for the development of Malay city. ulation that led to the clustering of elements and The argument of the absence of the pre-colonial Fig. 11 - Artist impression of the Melaka Sultanate Palace as decrypted in further impact of a tropical fragile environment. tangible past in downtown Melaka and its UNESCO Sulalatus Salatin (Malay Annal) (Shellabear, 1977). The pre-colonial Melaka shows the sustainability World Heritage site has been engaged since the of the city from economic and social perspectives. 1980s. The review and observations of pre-colonial The general public architecture was a tropical one Melaka urbanism show a degree of city planning, which provides: i) shelter from sun and rain; ii) a reflecting that sustainable and natural growth is contrast of light timber and shade from both thick embedded in the Melaka Sultanate era. The estab- wall and extended eaves; iii) sufficient spaces lishment of pre-colonial Melaka Sultanate was the around and between buildings; iv) minimisation of waterfront setting, on the sea-front at the mouth radiant heat and heat island effects; v) air circu- of a little estuary and hill area that allowed one lation, breeze permeation and passive cooling; vi) to observe the coming and going of the ship. Due generous outdoor living spaces with large window to the excellent geographical location, streets and and balcony openings; vii) generous floor to ceil- blocks in ancient Melaka were first formed in the ing heights; viii) high-quality landscaping; ix) qual- areas adjacent to the river or the coast, then ex- ity public and private spaces that proliferate and tending to the inland (Han & Guang, 2018). The enliven the urban form; and x) passive design that characteristics of Melaka city of waterfront setting responds to the tropical climate. are i) a settlement with activities related to port, a Melaka grew from its maritime economy particu- strong relationship of people, boat and shipping, larly on trading and became the epicentre of the loads and unloads goods, and ii) human interac- Malay world. Found inside were different quarters tion of social and business, iii) centre of trades and of different ethnolinguistic groups, and races, as transport routes. In relation to future planning, the at some point in the Melaka history of the medi- locational factor should maintain and should not eval city, foreign merchants outnumbered local change the landscape of Melaka itself, as it able merchants. The city had narrow streets, going to diminishes the cultural and heritage of Melaka. Fig. 12 - Replica of Water Wheel during the reign of Melaka Sultanate through open spaces, buildings and houses, many The extensive reclamation has affects Melaka’s (Merahsilu, 2016). of which had a masonry ground floor and timber historic centre profile and original setting from upper floors and were either tiled or thatch roofs. fronting the sea to fronting the river. This claimed Some of the Chinese who came during the visit of Some elements, as found in historical documents has supported by Jahn Kassim et al. (2019) that Zheng He was located at the foothill of Bukit China. and narrative differentiate Melaka from other cit- localised form and vocabulary are missing as the At the heart of this city was the ‘padang’ which was ies, the presence of a mosque (which have been new cities of Malaysia, and Indonesia not fully squared but was within the enclosure of argued either dome or Nusantara pyramid or a has highly green technology but lacking of the at- key elements. The centre was both political and combination of both) and the presence of a ‘cov- tendant cultural resonances and memory. spiritual. Organic shape ‘padang’ or centre bor- ered bridge’ which have now totally disappeared, In 1937, mud dredged from the river to furnish dered by the large mosque and administrative yet whole similarities can be found in local covered Melaka with a sea-front ‘padang’, Bandar Hilir palaces. The market place borders the sea and its bridges in Thailand and other Asian cities. Although Park, to make it similar pattern from those in Sin- closest to the sea. Melaka must be understood as a the urban grid has totally been erased, similarities gapore and Pulau Pinang (Kim, 1983). Nor Zalina centre of cross-cultural commerce and transoce- can perhaps be associated with the river -aligned Harun (2016) however explained that a historical anic economic activity. What differentiates Melaka grid such as still found in Pontianak Kalimantan. public place, Padang Pahlawan in Melaka, used to

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT be the ground for the first proclamation of inde- Melaka had with the sea. With extensive reclama- Castanheda, F. L. De. (1582). Histo- pendence in 1957 was demolished for commercial tion at the harbour in the center of Melaka, it no Many thanks go to our TRGS re- ry of the Exploration & Conquest of development, and the former function of the ‘pa- longer maintain the heritage values of Melaka as search groups for supporting this the Indies By the Portuguese. dang’ as a historic public space has deteriorated. historical site. The similar situation of develop- paper. Thanks you also to the Inter- Land reclamation has erased the special link that ment of residential in the present state of the har- national Islamic University of Ma- Dames, Mansel Longworth. (1921). laysia and the Ministry of Higher The Book of Duarte Barbosa Vol. 2 bour and the waterfront has also has diminished Education (MOHE) for the research (M. Longworth Dames (ed.)). The the original form and function. grant “Trans-Disciplinary Research Asiatic Society. https://archive.org/ The reflection that can be learnt from pre-colonial Grant Scheme” (TRGS16-03-002- details/in.ernet.dli.2015.47303/ Melaka Sultanate for the future planning can be 00002). Authors also would like page/n1/mode/2up arise from sustainable principles. This including to sincerely thank all referees for alignment with water bodies, the degree of open their suggestions to improve the Emanual Godinho, de E. (1613). De- manuscript. scription of Malaca and Meridional spaces, degree of greenery and symbolic charges India and Cathay in three treatries. which can be linked to the past of the notion as an REFERENCES ideal rule and basis to develop sustainable plan- Emanual Godinho, de E. (1930). ning. Any city or township in Asia, must rebrand its Alatas, S. M. (1997). 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http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: http://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.21