SESSION:- 2013-2014 {DIPLOMA IN FASHION DESIGNING AND GARMENT TECHNOLOGY} A PROJECT REPORT ON SAREE-BLOUSE, TIE & DYE AND CREATION OF JAWELLERY
Under Supervision of: Submitted by: Mr. DINESH KUMAR GAUTAM SWETA JAISWAL Principal Mr. PREM CHANDRA VERMA
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGNING AND GARMENT TECHNOLOGY GOVT. GIRLS POLYTECHNIC, VARANASI
PREFACE
Fashion Technology viewed as one of the most demanding and professional career of word. It is in this context that Govt. Polytechnic of U.P. began a new trade Named Fashion Technology from 1996 the syllabusas if the course strikes a find balance creativity and individual expression in the one hand commercial and industrial in the other. This course has an opportunity to work with the faculty on exciting constancy project. In this project which is supplement at the paper for the final examination 2013-2014 an attempt has been made to the find a design for saree & jewelry. In this project I have endeavored in the above direction with the local availabele means and resources possibility for better achievement is always there. The great vedic Literature we may guide us in creating new design. Fashion Technology in my view is art of imagination and creation
SWETA JAISWAL F.D. & G.T. IIIrd Year Govt. Girls Polytechnic Varanasi
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that he dissertation entitled Saree Blouse, Tie & Dye creation of jewelry being submitted by Miss. SWETA JAISWAL Partial fulfillment of the Requirement for the award of Diploma in the Fashion Technology, Submitted to Govt. Girls Polytechnic, Varanasi is a reward of student own work cried by her under my Supervision and guidance, the matter embodied in her dissertation has not been submitted of any other Diploma.
I recommended her dissertation for the above diploma.
Date ……………………......
Place : Varanasi Head Department of Fashion Technology Govt. Girls Polytechnic, Varanasi
DECLARATION
I hereby declare that the project “Saree-Blouse, Tie & Dye and creation of jawellery” is my original work and has not been submitted else were towards the awards of any diploma to the best of my knowledge belief.
Miss. SWETA JAISWAL
PRINCIPAL......
HEAD OF DEPARTMENT ......
EXAMINAR ......
PROJECT GUIDE ......
THE “PROJECT”
“WAY OF WORKING IN PRE-PLANNED METHOD”
ESSENTIAL BAEGROUND FOR THE “PROJECT” WORK
Project work and project report is must for proving of our experience about any special topic. As my seleöted topic are divided in three parts “Fabrication, Printing and Jewellery”. This report file is a symbol of highlighting of our about defined topic, it is an exact way of self — evaluation and skilled about the subject. Project work also inspires to try and present our best. We can estimate the material and cost decide to in manufacturing any garment. It makes working systematic: -
Requirement of our project preparation. Working according to a plan. Have patience and creation.
Should be flexible. Proper technique of using all available materials and equipments. Hard work and responsibility. Precaution and protection.
To begin any creative work one should have complete knowledge about that project / aim to accomplish through this project. The vital essence of the word “PROJECT” can be understood with the description given below.
P- Planning
R - Raw Material
0-Organization
J- joint Effect
E-- Economical
C- Construction
T - Technology
“Planning” or planned working is very essential to complete the work successfully. “Raw Material” is the second most important factor for project work. Raw material should be cheap and of best quality because it affects our
manufacturing. “Organization” is very necessary as good and sound decision and constructive work are possible only with skilled employees which work as in organization. “Joint Effect” refers to the healthy contribution between the worker and the management. It is required for good production. Any project should be “Economical”. The plan of the project should be such that it provides the best thing in minimum cost and time. Besides these things we need manufacturing unit, which comes under “Construction”. “Technology” today is becoming the defining element of our timing. It is playing a lead role in all creative worlds. The success of technology depends on team-work.
Project working is based on certain fundamental principals. It facilities the smooth working without any problems, removing all known and unknown obstacles. It makes the work systematic and tension free. By working in a planned way we can save time and cost both, success of a project depends on following points :-
Work in plan way. Flexibility in the project, in other word’s there should be availability of alternatively in the project itself. Hard work and responsibility. Precaution on security, skilled manpower, material and machine.
INTRODUCTION
It was the time when human beings were not civilized. Flower, leaf, grass, barks and animal skin were the dress of human being. Step by step as he become civilized, he developed his attitude to eating, wearing and living. It is guessed that dresses were being used since before 1,00,000 yr. ago. Step by step, slowly, fashion developed across various ages in history.
Human beings moved through ages for the quest of fashion. The clothing sense changed in every century with different emperors and their reigns. The Mughal period brought a new concept in Indian clothing. With the Britishers, western look entered Indian clothing. The stitching, fitting of clothes had its first impression on India. The ready-made garments also slowly established in India,
British age was for a long time in India, so India copied these dresses this new type, attractive dresses as paint coat ties shirt, payajama, shots, night suit, etc. Public also accepted this new type, attractive dress. It used as fashion -- race.
English man always used different types of dresses for different occasions as Night suit, Sports wear, Visiting wear Office wear, Horse- riding wear, Party wear, etc. In this age fashion developed in India.
In last of 17th century (in 18th century) was that time when wearing and sewing machine have developed. In this time fashion had caught speed. First sewing machine workshop named “Jar Enterprises” was established in Calcutta. It has made first sewing machine named “Usha”, “Singer” in England and “Puff” in Germany. It brought a revolution in stitching.
Women started to make their dress attractive since the 19th century. After the “First World War (1914)”, women made her dressing simple. After “Second World War (1943)”, man and women both became conscious about their dress.
After Independence in 1947, India’ s partition gave opportunity for Indian industry and fashion to grow. Handloom industry was revived and other apparel producing industries were set up. Fashion Institutes and
ready made garments started to grow. Indian fashion, which started to walk, grasping the finger of Paris, is not to lag behind in competition from other countries’ fashion. British fashion was copied to India till then. After freedom, many films presented inspiration for fashion. In 1950 to 1970, film fashion was accepted by heart and sole and public welcomed also. Indian fashion took a new turn from the period of 1980 to 1990. This was period of radical change in Indian fashion world.
In this time Indian and other designers started to make carriers and poison in track of fashion. They presented more options in fashion and arranged many fashion shows, fashion centers,. exhibitions, etc. These experiments meant for fashions advertise were more successful. Now there are many opportunity, success and money in this track; but this requires talent and perseverance.
In 1980, “Alneger Butric” invented collection method of garment through paper pattern. 20th century was the revolution of fashion in western world. It was called “Roaring twenties”. In last days of 20th century, Indian
designers had been making in with fusion wear in international market. Fusion wear contains traditional and modern style.
The credit of foundation of “Fusion” goes to “Vendal Rodriguez”, “Reena” and “Geetanjali Kashyap”.
Manufacturers of fusion, like Raghvendra Rathore, Ramesh Nayar, Nahid Merchant, Aki Narula etc. want to get passion of Vendal Rodrigz and David Abraham. Famous fashion experts believe in originally that should be in this track. Newness in working style is specialty of this track.
Indian civilization is the mixture of many cultures. Modern dresses are the result of mutual relation between exchange and business of different zone and their cultures.
In modern civilization, costume has an important place. The clothing one wears plays an important part in one’ s adjustment to the social group. The style of garment construction, which exposes the beauty of natural fiber, becomes popular and comes in fashion.
FASHION DEVELOPMENT
In ancient and medieval times, clothing styles remained practically unchanged for a century at a time. Fashion change began to accelerate during the renaissance, as western civilization discovered different cultures, costumes and customers. As new fabrics and ideas became available, people craved more for fashion and hence fashion continued to increase. Some of the important landmarks in the history of Fashion are mentioned below.
France— The center of fashion:-
France’ s dominance over international fashion began in the early eighteenth century. From then onwards the trend has continued to reign and France is still the leader of world’ s fashion and most fashion trends arise from there only.
Effects of the Industrial revolution on Fashion:-
The Industrial Revolution marked the very beginning of technological advances in textile and apparel production. This also led to set up of industries for Mass Production of
clothes. This mass production led to accessible fashion for everyone at reasonable costs. The invention of Sewing Machine also had a great impact on fashion industry. The first Sewing machine was invented by “Singer” in 1851.
Retailing during the Nineteenth Century:
Modern retailing had its roots in the nineteenth century when affordable fashion was first made available to the general public. The retail industry has changed the concept of modern clothing with all types of fashion easily approachable to everyone.
Changes caused by communication, Industry, etc:-
Communications, leisure activities, labour, conditions and industrial technology have a continuing effect on fashion.
Effect of World war-I on the status of women:-
World War-I put women in the workforce and gave them new rights and practical clothing. They developed new sense of fashion and had the rights to pursue fashion as per their will.
Retail expansion in the early twentieth century:-
The needs of the growing middle class stimulated both apparel manufacturing and retailing. In order to reach every section of the population, the retail industry needed to grow extensively.
Effects of the 1930 depression on fashion:
The depression in 1930 had a great impact on various industries; especially the apparel industry was totally at the brink of being demolished. The experience of the great depression of the 1930s still causes manufacturers and retailers to worry at the sign of a recession.
Effect of world war-II on fashion:-
The American economy did not entirely recover until World War-II escalated production, which led to a widespread growth of all forms of industries including the fashion/apparel industry in order to boost economy.
Reactionary Post-war Fashion:-
The post war era brought about a sub-urban lifestyle accent on family life. The world came face to face with the fashion styles existing in other places across the globe through the war interaction.
Fashion styles across decades:-
The post-war body boom had an increasing effect on fashion change. Breaking with convention, young designers created fashions for their own age-group. This was termed as the “Youth directed fashion” of 1960s.
Another major development in the late 1960s and 1 970s was the concept of “Anti-fashion” becoming the main style statement.
The 1980s came to be known as the ‘acquisitive’ time. Overspending and over borrowing in the 1980s caused many of the problems that the fashion business still faces today.
In the last decade of the century, i.e. the 1990s, the Americans have had to readjust to a less indulgent way of life, which was referred to as “value-orientation”.
THE FUNDAMENTAL ARTS PRINCIPLE OF GARMENT CONSTRUCTION IS FOLLOWING:-
PROPORT1.ON: - Proportion means sizes are areas to one another or to a whole. It should have pleasing relationship to the whole and to one another. BALA.NCE: - Balance means sense of restfulness, balance in necessary for a sense of equilibrium, stability and permanence. This restful effect obtained by grouping shapes and colour around a center in such way that there is equal attraction on each side of center. RHYTHM:-. In design Rhythm means an easy connected path along with the eye may travel in my many arrangement of - little, Item or colour, Rhythm relates movement which can be obtained through repetition of shapes, progression of sizes or through an easily connected continuous line movement. FOCAL POINT OR OF INTEREST: - Agarment should have a particular point of interest and subordinate other details to it. By this the eye is carried first to the
most important in any arrangement and after that the others. HARMONY: Similarity and harmony in garment construction is as important as in music and decoration. Harmony, produce an impression of unity through the selection and arrangement of consistent object and ideas, they are they are six aspects of harmony; they are harmony of line, shape, size, texture, colour and idea.
Forms of garment have changed with change of time, place and mental status of mankind. Now, everyday marks the starting of a new fashion trend.
SELECTED PROJECT
“DESIGN & FABRICATION OF SARI”
INTRODUCATION
India is a multi-traditional country. In the field of dresses also there are several excellent ideas. Dresses also indicate the specialty of the culture and the community. The designs are different according to social and natural conditions of the area. This basic formation remains the same with slight modifications from time to time. New experiments with regard to design modification and use of new fabric are continuing daily.
India is one of the most prosperous countries of the world for costumes. Here we find “fusion” of different culture. People of different states wear different types of dresses. Nowadays, frequent changes and experiments is taking place in dress designing. But, today we live in “Golden Era
of Fashion”. Fashion is all about expressing the various moods of a person. When we talk of Indian women, the first picture that crosses our minds is the picture of a lady in a beautiful sari. Thus, Sari is the mirror of Indian women.
Today in our country, a major part of thç export is in the form of “sari”. Many new designs are made everyday, also, many traditional form of art-work blend into the designing. Almost all designers strive for a delicate and aesthetic balance between the richness of Indian Heritage and elements of suitability. Keeping this point of view in mind, I have selected “the design and fabrication of a sari with embroidery”, as my project work.
‘Sari’, as already mentioned, is symbolic of Indian cultural heritage and is the embodiment of an “Indian women”. The designing of sari is very challenging as the length is very large. Designers are now trying fusion concepts and designs in the designing of sari; but the traditional art- forms such as Banarasi, Chikan, Taant, Kanchipuram, etc. continue to have their predominant role. The Indian Banarasi and Silk saris have a great international market.
‘‘Blouse’, is the essential complimentary apparel requirement with the sari. But, the “blouse” or “choli” has no longer remained an accessory; instead it has created a new style and fashion statement on its own. The glamour
of sari is decided by the blouse that goes with it. The sari is fixed, but, the blouse has gone through many changes and adaptations. It has now become a matter of design in itself, and nowadays most energy is put into designing of the blouse, to make it more appealing, sensuous, exotic and beautiful. WHY I CHOOSE THIS DRESS
In Indian culture ‘Sari’’ is a traditional dress, it represents our culture and civilization. Women can wear this on any occasions and it looks very beautiful and graceful.
In modern civilization costume has an important place in our life. The clothing plays an important part in one’s adjustment to the social group he belongs.
Today Sari is used as a glamorous dress. It has been rightly said that “the history of female costume in India, is a story of choli and the sari”. This may not be deemed quite correct as the sari is not so popular in certain parts of the country, like Northern Region. But it must be
admitted that as for the greater part of India is concerned, this holds true. It is undoubtedly true that the Indian Bride is visualized all over the world as an embodiment of “sari”.
For the sari is more wide spread however it may be worn as any other kind of female dress. “The Five or Six yards sari” with a choli or blouse has set in a common style of dress in India. Dressing is an expression of different moods, especially for women, who want to look elegant, graceful and sensuous.
In the present time, Sari is most attractive, graceful and glamorous dress. Therefore, I decided to add something different in it to do some new creation. And thus I choose a traditional wear with a formal look and which may also be a “Party Wear”.
HISTORY OF EMBROIDERY
Throughout the seventeenth century, Gujarat was probably the most important center for fine commercial embroidery in the worlds. Today, the Northern Gujarat to Western Rajasthan and the Thar Parker district of Sind in Pakistan is the world’s richest source of folk embroidery. Marriage costumes, wall hangings, quilts, cradle clothes and embroidered, appliquéd, decorated with mirrors sequins, buttons and shells.
Each caste passes on unchanged from generation, its own district designs, colours and range of stitches which, together with the cut of their garments and their particular tie-and-die and block printed designs, from the major visual part of a castes cultural identity.
EMBROIDERY
Embroidery has a unique way of adding a personal touch to your seeing project. It is a decorative work on a variety of. fabrics. Women are the pioneers in creating excellent delicate time. In India it has been used since 16’ century, painting, figurines fount in Indus Valley civilization and sculpture. There is sufficient description and prove of embroidery in our “Religious book and Vedas” using various types of ethnic motifs and stitches make the garment attractive and fascinating.
Embroidery should be chosen with great discrimination. It can look garish and ‘cheap’ unless very well chosen. In present fashion world embroidered garments are preferred both by men and women. The use of various pattern and colourful threads, application of stitches and different textures of the fabric to create master piece is the beauty of the Indian craftsmanship.
COMMONLY THREE TYPES OF EMBROIDERY ARE USED:—
Thread Embroidery. Metal Embroidery. Bead Embroidery.
Metal Embroidery is regionally famous in various parts of the world; for ex. Lucknow and Varanasi are known for articles prepared for metal embroidery.
Bead work becomes one of the popular documents one of the popular documents than depicted the lifestyle custom tradition of its creations. ‘Moti’ (Pearl) and Beads in predominate in Jalor district of Rajasthan.
Thread work commonly used in all type of embroidery is very popular in every state.
DRAFTING METHOD
As cutting of fabric is must before stitching, so the drafting is must for accurate cutting of fabric, according to required measurement. It is a necessary for exact shape of garments because drafting makes a man perfect in cutting and stitching. Drafting is very important especially for beginners because it provides the insight into the basic cutting of body-shapes. The proper drafting also ensures that the stitched garment is perfectly to shape. In industries, the draft / pattern are must, as the operator works merely by the shape as in the draft and he has no idea about the final customer for the clothes.
For every garment, drafting should be applied. It takes some precaution as:
> Fine and exact lining for marking.
> Should be according to measurement, style and look.
> Every part of garment should be shown in drafting.
All plots, dots and extra style should be aid in’ the drafting.
ADVANTAGES
It makes easy to fitting of garments. Garment manufactured without alteration. Any learning person can make easily a garment. It is also useful for making Layout. PATTERN DRAFTING
Drafting is the first and most important part of garment manufacturing. Accuracy of drafting decides comfort fit of garments. For the starts, the smoothly, we make the drafting for particular garment. It’ s the surest way to make fashions that fit and flatter our figure without a ‘lot of adjustment later. Before understanding of construction it is essential to have full knowledge of pattern drafting. There are two method of drafting by which we can mark perfect drafting for garment:-
Chest Measurement System Direct Measurement System
METHOD AND PREPARATION OF DRAFTING
Firstly draft the pattern according to description of order book. 1/4, 1/6, 1/8, 1/12 Scale used to make drafting. Measurement should be kept in mind for draft making. Shape should be showed with the dotted line ( ). All parts of the garment like across back, sleeve, color should be shown in drafting. Wrong line should be cut with the help of Milton chalk. Every line and shape of draft should be clear. Drafting line should be sharp. Drafting line should be checked before cutting. Use• different colour of Milton chalk to shown design.
Draft should be drawn always opposite side of fabric. ADVANTAGES
We get right proportion of cloth by making draft. Milton cloth should be used for practice of drafting. Pointed pencil should be used to make draft. The shapes are in practice by making draft. HISTORY OF PATTERN DRAFTING
The first clothes were simply the skins of animals draped around the human body for warmth in the area of the world with a cold climate. But, the sense of drafting persisted even then.
This hampered movement and left parts of the body exposed; leading to a desire for shaping, in some way. The early man used to cut the skins into shape for his/her body. Methods were found to make skins more liable and the biggest step forward occurred with the
invention of the ‘Needle’, the first ones being made of bone. After this, human mind dwelt upon ways to continuously improve his drafting skills, as this was useful in other ways as well.
Now, this skill has grown more into a systematic method. There is, however, as there has always been a place for originality. The satisfaction of drafting for pattern tO your own design that will fit without alteration is both useful and satisfying. An understanding of pattern drafting can assist he dress designer to understand construction and at the other end of the scale. The new corner to dress making can gain an understanding of pattern components and be able to assess if they will give the right results.
The equipments needed to draft a pattern are inexpensive and easy to acquire, but demands high craftsmanship. For a good drafter, the better the tools, the better the results. The following points should be kept in mind while using various tools for drafting:
. Tape measures and rulers must agree. . Rulers must be straight. . Set squares must have a true 90 degree angle. . Pencils should give a bold line and be suitable for drawing curves. MATERIALS & EQUIPMENTS USED IN THE PROJECT
. Pattern Master junior . Pivot Pins . Bradawl . Pins . Pattern Notcher . Tracking wheel Sticking Tape . Rule Master V . 17 cm Shears . 15 cm Shears . Snips . Small Scissors Tape Measures
. Stitching Machine . Needles . Press . Embroidery Frame ( Karchope) . Hand Brush
In this project, I have used my own equipments, interment rolls and materials as listed above. It may be noted that these all are basic equipments that will be required by any designer. The use of some of these equipments is as mentioned.
The ‘Stitching I Sewing Machine’ is usually of two types- Manual &. Electrical. I have made use of the Manual Sewing Machine, which can be operated by hands as well as by pedaling. ‘Scissors’ of various types and sizes are required for cutting different profiles. ‘Hand-Brush’ is used to clean the thread pieces and chalk-linings. ‘Cutting Table’ is used for cutting the clothes. ‘Measuring Square’, ‘Pattern Master’ & ‘Rule Master’ is used for drafting and measurement. ‘Needles’ of various numbers/sizes are used for stitching and embroidery. ‘Snips’ & ‘Shears’ are used for shearing the
cloth. ‘Embroidery Frame (Karchope)’ is used for holding the cloth tightened while embroidery. ‘Pressing Table’ & ‘Press’ is used for fusing and pressing the garments. ‘Tracing Table’ and pins are used while tracing the pattern on to the clothes for cutting.
The above equipments and some more are the basic accessories of a designer. They help in the pattern making, cutting and stitching of garments. I have also made use of the above mentioned equipments in the course of my project.
INTRODUCATION
All over the world jewellery is a significant item. It gives an attractive appearance to human body. Jewellery is a combination of goodness, attraction, brightness and prosperity. The ornaments are practically worn on all parts of body from the head to the toe. The design of jeweliery is deeply related to the life style, of any country Jewellery indicates social, physical and economical side of any country, community and tribe. In my project-work, I have selected the „ Designing and fabrication of contemporary “imitation Jewellery”
In India there are ornaments for almost all part of human body. Some of these are worn regularly while others are worn at specific occasions. Some ornaments are made for ritual and ceremonial purpose. Even metal is specified. The use of ornaments by women is universal, in many community men’ s also wear them. Men wear them also for ritual and ceremonial purpose.
In turns of antiquity also India has the tradition of more than 5000 years of Jewellery of gold and other material. Indian Jewellery provides a glimpse of an unbroken tradition of adorn right from the beginning of the civilization. The Harappa Excavation has yielded a number of ornaments: these include bangles, earring, strings of bead, needle, hair- pin and wig such other items. The famous statue of “Dancing Girl” discovered at “Mohan-Jo-Daro” is wearing a number of references of jewellery. In the earliest known text, the RigVeda, other Vedas and precious for Vedic period make constant reference of ornaments of gold, silver and precious gems. These were worn by God and Goddess.
Medieval period and specially during the Mughal the ornaments and Jewellery making reached at new heights, the most significance feature of Jewellery during the Mughal period was the use of jewels. Beautiful Pieces of jewellery studded with diamond, rubies, emerald and pearls are best example of craftsmanship and skills of goldsmiths. This tradition continues during the 18th and 19th century.
The 20th century marked the fusion of all available designs. The design of Mughals, jewel-studded work, etc. were profusely and liberally mixed and presented and at the same was liked and appreciated by the masses. The concept of “Artificial Jewellery” was a great achievement of this century. The use of ‘Platinum’ as a precious metal was started in full-fledge in this century. The Jewellery designing was started as an industry by many big organizations, and this has given new dimension to this art and this has made jewellery designing into a great scope for upcoming designers to undertake as their career.
JEWELLERY USED FOR DIFFERENT PARTS OF BODY
In India there are ornaments for almost all part of human body. Some of these are worn regularly while others are worn at specific occasions. Some ornaments are made for ritual and ceremonial purpose, even mental is specified the use of ornaments by women is universal but in many communities, men also wear them. They wear it for ritual and ceremonial purpose; let us give you a brief account of various types of ornaments worn on different part of women body.
Ornaments used for the head are of three types.The first is what was called ‘Turbun’ jewels. These were not in common use and were mainly by royalty and chiefs in their turban. These are called ‘Jigha’ or ‘Sarpati’ other two head ornaments are used by women of these one is for the forehead (Tika). They comes in various shape and sizes and
shapes the other one is for hair and it also comes in various shapes and size.
Ornaments for ear and neck are most common ornaments are various types, the most common small ‘tops’ and the dropping types with special stains to support the weight. These are generally worn in ear but in many region and communities, a number of big and small ear ornaments are worn together.
Nose is the other part of body, which is popu1arly used for wearing ornaments, small ‘Nose-studs’ and circular ‘Nose- ring’ (Nath) are two common types. The different regions have varieties in shapes and size and the large ring type ornament is generally worn on the occasion on marriage and other ceremony in many communities, oniy married are supposed to wear nose ornaments in some communities.
Neck is adorned with a variety of ornaments. The most common is the ‘Necklace’, which hangs in the. neck. Another type is the ‘Choker’ (Gulband) which fits tightly on the neck.
The third type is the ‘Pendant’ (Locket). ‘Mangalsutra’ is worn by married women among Hindus.
Ornaments for hands can be divided in three categories- finger, wrist and lower arm & upper arm. ‘Armlets’ (Bajuband) are worn in upper-arm. ‘Bracelets, Wristlets, Bangles, Churi, Kada’ are worn in lower arm. ‘Rings’ are worn in the fingers. Rings are worn with simple designs and with ratnas on them, for warding off evil influences.
The waist is adorned by a thick waist ornament ‘Kardhani’ (Kamardhani) and generally worn by women. Leg is adorned by ‘Anklets’, ‘Toe-Rings’ ‘Ghungroo’. The leg ornaments southern India; but are equally well.
All these ornaments are very important to Indian culture and are very vital for the Indian bride.
JEWELLERY
Jewellery and ornaments is most fashionable thing of our country jewel is symbol of virtue. A combination of goodness, attraction, brightness and prosperity. Therefore, jewels are used in ornaments. Jewels also contain purity and are said to purify human body and surrounding atmosphere. From the view of astrology jewels affect the human thinking and behavior. It is said that man becomes optimistic by using jewels. Some jewellery made of Botanical material such as Rudraksh, Tulsi item are also used and they have definite effect on human body. For arrangements Ivory is also used. The colour of jewels also plays important role on body and mind. TYPES OF JEWELLERY
Jewellery Imitation Jewellery Costume Jewellery
JEWELLERY:-
There are two types of jewellery:.-
Fine jewellery. R Stone jewellery.
Fine jewellery is costly because of the precious metal and jewellery is often a life time investment its design is usually classic only precious metals, such as gold, silver and platinum are used in making fine jewellery. Precious gems such as Diamond, Ruby., Emerald, Sapphire and natural are used for stone Jewellery. IMITATION JEWELLERY:-
Its description is only line “Craft of Jewellery or Higher price Jewellery” or copied form of Jewellery.
COSTUME JEWELLERY
There are two types of costume Jewellery:
Traditional Jewellery Fashion Jewellery
(A). Traditional Jewellery uses base metals such as brass, aluminium, copper, tin, lead, coated or bonded with gold or silver.
(B). Fashion Jewellery utilize material such as used plastic, leather, wood, beads ( call glass or clay ) fashion Jewellery is often colourful and changes styles seasonally. JEWELS :-
Jewels are the symbol of virtue. A combination of goodness, attraction, brightness and prosperity. Therefore jewels are used in ornaments. Jewels also contain purity are said to purify human body and surrounding atmosphere. From the view of astrology, Jewels affect the human thinking and. behavior. It is said that men become optimistic by using
jewels. The colour of jewels also plays important role on body and mind.
In our ancient literature, from the ancient times, there are two categories of jewels:
MAIN CATEGORY: - In this category there are nine main jewels (“Nav-Ratna”) Diamond, Emerald, Yellow Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Coral, Pearls, and Zircon, Cat’s eye. SUB CATEGORY: - Other jewels are in this category. In total there are 84 kinds of jewels all over the world. Besides jewels, the metals used for ornaments are gold and silver. Gold has its own place in jewellery. ORIGIN OF JEWELS:-
Some jewels originate in the deep layers of the earth by metamorphism rocks. These are taken out by mining. In some cases, due to erosion in deep rivers, this precious metals are carried from the depth of the earth and are carried through the rivers and are found in the riverbeds.
Such jewels often change their place of origin. Some jewels originate naturally. TYPES OF JEWELS:-
There are two types: Mineral Jewels. Organic Jewels
MINERAL JEWELS:- Mineral jewels originate in the depth of earth by metamorphism in the rocks. These are formed by the natural processes going on in the earth’ s core. They are obtained by mining. The raw-material that is mined is then processed and after a lot of processing, the jewels are obtained in their acceptable form.
ORGANIC JEWELS: - These originate in sea animals such as coral and pearls. These are obtained from the seabed after the animals die and their remains decay off leaving the organic jewels in their natural form. After that,
these are processed and polished in jewellery houses and they are obtained in their precious form. JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING
For giving desired shape and design to metal and jewels to convert it into jewellery, following two systems are in existence:-
1. OLD PROCESS:- This method is applied by the traditional gold smiths in whom derived shape is given to gold or silver by meeting it and purring it in dye. Then it is finished with the help of cutter and other ordinary tools.
2. MODERN PROCESS:- With the development of science and technology nowadays new experiments are taking place in jewellery manufacturing.
For designing the jewellery, now, CAD (Computer Aided Design) method is also applied; although the conventional designing process is still very much in practice.
MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE
The most common Gold jewellery manufacturing techniques are:
. Casting . Chain making. . Dye’ striking or dye stamping.
Casting
Casting is done in traditional manner and also with modern process. It is the process of duplicating an object by forcing molten gold into a mould. It reproduces jeweliery quickly, practically and exactly. This technique has greatly influenced and changed the design and manufacture of jewellery. Since it can cast a piece of jewellery at for lower cost than having it crafted by hand. Chain Making
It connects loops of metal wire to form a single chain its links are assembled, soldered upto make them flexible, while hand made gold chain are widely available today. In India many chains are produced by computer controlled machines capable to producing a wide variety of different designs. Chains are also of many types. Close slings herring bone chain, light rope chain, Prince of Wales chain, Bachelor chain etc. are some popular chain design.
DYE SRIKING OR DYE STAMPING
It is a technique that presses out jewellery either partially or completely by driving hardened steel dye of desired shape into a sheet of gold under pressure. It is widely used in mass production of a particular jewellery item. Dye is also to manufacture and critical item in parts and then assembling it. For preparing dye in addition to traditional tools some modern machines for cutting, Hex machine for finishing. Now embossing process is also applying which increases the beauty of jewellery. A piece of jewellery manufacture by any of. these techniques is then cleaned and polished before it is considered a finished gold product.
METALS MOSTLY USED IN JEWELLERY GOLD:-
Over the age no other metal has so fascinated mankind as has gold and it has inspired some of world’ s most brilliant and intricate craftsmanship. Gold is so soft and malleable that one gram can be stretched to a wire three and half km. long, one ounce or thirty one gram can be hammered to a sheet so thin that it can cover 16 square mt. Since gold does not rust or tarnish, coins found in sunken galleons centuries old, are still as bright and shining as the day they were cast. Gold is one of the major factors in the country’s economy. SILVER:-
Silver is another metal that it is showing up in a lot of jewellery as well important trade, because of the comparative affordability of silver vis-a-vis other precious metals, silver is featuring in an increasing number of collections. Then jewellery trade is
significance jewellery trends. Long modern ear rings, Bold Ring and Cuffs are items to watch out for according to trends forecasted by silver trust internationals. PLATINUM:-
Platinum is called “White Gold”. Platinum is very hard metal. It is very expensive metal. Platinum is riding the crest of unprecedented demand. Platinum is one of the strongest jewellery likes for the coming season right across the world from the fashion centers of Europe, America and the Asian continents. Platinum jeweilery has given the jewellery designing industry a new dimension. This is presently the most new concept in jewellery designing.
SELECTION OF JEWELLERY
Selection of jewellery is most important. At the time of selection of jewellery the main factor to be remembered are colour complexion of body, structure, dress and mainly creating something new. In the past, during feudal system, jewellery was used by male and female at large scale. Still at present it is also a status symbol. Now jewellery is the primary requirement of women after marriage, it is considered compulsory in respect of certain items. The jewellery matching with dress always looks beautiful such as bangles; anklets and earring look good with sari and lehenga-chunari. Such ornaments looks old are in more use because they arc cheaper or than ornament of natural material like gold, diamond, pearl etc. Moreover, it may be risky to keep the ornaments made of such costly jewels. We should not wear such ornaments which are inconvenient or which may be harmful to our body. So, we should very careful in
selecting and using such ornaments. Ornaments should be carefully selected so that they may be convenient and suitable with the outfit we wear.
TIE AND DYE INTRODUCTION
Clothes manufactured by “Bandhej Method” have developed condition of dyeing. Harish Chant “Ajanta Cave” wall pictures novels of middle age are proved that Chunri and Lehria. Cloth are famous in all India indifferent age. CHUNRI: -Use of simple floral pattern and cheap method of Bandhej is called ‘Chunri’; light work design of parrot, peacock and leaves in big size. Chunri used mainly in Turbon. It manufactured raw and fast colour in Red and .Green. BANDHANI: - It is costly variety of ‘Bandhej’ worked cloth square shaped called ‘Ghar’. It used also in auspicious. Horses, Elephants, Peacock made in ghar cheaks made by golden and silver shade. GHATNI: - Silk sari of Bandhej work. This is very good work and is widely appreciated.
LAHERIYA: - Laheriya is also a type of Bandhej work by using different colour dyeing it had got this name. Double coloured, Triple coloured, Five coloured and Rainbow Laheriya.
TYPES OF DYE
NATURAL DYE: - This is prepared by natural material (Leaf, Flower, Roots, Stems and Fruits).
SYNTHETIC DYE: - This is prepared by synthetic and artificial materials (as Copper-Sulphate and Acids, etc). SELECTED PROJECT
“TIE AND DYE WORK IN BED-SHEET”
BANDHANI
‘Bandhana’ and ‘Bandha’ are Sanskrit word meaning to tie, but this tie and dye technique is internationally known by this very name.
‘Malay-Indonesian’ name “Plangi”. When simply tied, bandhani textiles are inexpensive and this is one of the cheapest ways for women of the poorer communities to dress in a colourful fashion.
The dyeing of bandhani textiles is mostly carried out within the home, mainly by women or young girls. The material used is thin mill-made cloth, either a loosely woven silk known as “,Georgette” or cotton known as “Malmal”. The white generally unbleached cloth is folded into four or more layers before the dyeing commences.
Once the pattern has been transferred to the cloth, the dyeing and dyeing can be undertaken in five stages:
With the fabric lying loose on the tap, the pattern is tied with plain cotton yarns. The material is pushed up from underneath with the long, pointed nail of the little finger of the left hand. The knob of protruding cloth is then very rapidly tied round six to eight times and thread led on, uncut to tie up the next knob, and so on until all the dots to be left white are tied. These ties will act as a resist when the fabric is dyed, and upon untying will leave a pattern of little white rings, each with a tiny centre coloured by the last dye to be applied. (The fabric is always dyed with the lightest colour first). After the initial tying the cloth is usually dyed with yellow, or very occasionally another light colour. Once it has been rinsed, squeezed and dried. The parts of the cloth that are not to be dyed by the darkest colours are wrapped tightly in plastic to step them from absorbing the dye.
After the last dyeing processes have been completed, the cloth is washed and if necessary starched. Then the cloth is properly folded and stored.
It should be noted the spots of colour can also applied by hand, or by dip dyeing at different Stages of the process. The technique is used a good deal in Rajasthan; but only sparingly in Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat and Haryana.
The finished cloth of two or three bright colours against a dark background is sold with its ties still intact. This shows that it is a genuine bandhani and printed imitation. CHOICE AND PREPARATION OF THE FABRIC
The best materials for ‘Tie and Dye’ printing work are Cotton, Silk and Rayon, among this Cotton is the best suited. The surface of the material should be as smooth as possible. The choice of fabric depends on what one is going to do with the fabric. This printing work cannot be done on synthetic or on nylon mixed cloth because the colour does not engage itself with the fabric and the printing is not fast. The print
becomes fugitive and fades off on washing these printed clothes. The best material for ‘Tie and Dye’ printing work is cotton, because the natural cotton fibers of cotton fabric form very strong bonding with the chemicals present in the colours and the printing is very stable. The fabric should be plain and starch free, if not, starch should be removed before printing is done.
IDENTIFICATION OF SUITABLE FABRIC
The selection and identification of suitable cloth for the “Tie and Dye” work is very important before starting the work.The cotton cloth can be identified by doing certain tests: Burining Test
They do not melt and not form a bead. They give a light fluffy ash. They give odour of burning paper. They burn readily and burning continues even when they are removed from the flame. Chemical Test
They are soluble in 75% Sulphuric acid solution or cupra-ammonium hydroxide solution. They are soluble in concentrated Hydrochloric acid, boiling 5% Sodium hydroxide solution or 70% acetone.
They give blue colour when mixed with solution of equal parts of concentrated Sulphuric acid and iodine crystal.