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Sex, Spirituality & Smuggling

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Sex, Spirituality & Smuggling Sex, spirituality & smuggling... THE SENSATIONAL HISTORY OF SANDALWOOD FROM FOREST TO FLACON THERE IS SURELY no other ingredient SUZY NIGHTINGALE goes on the in the perfumer’s palette which has the duality of sandalwood. On the woody trail of one of the most precious one hand, it is prized for its cooling, and intriguing ingredients, prized medicinal purposes (in Ayurvedic medicine) – and conversely, for equally by perfumers and sculptors its aphrodisiac, erotic nature. In fragrance, it can be soothing – or sexy. And it’s probably that fascinating perfumed paradox which has led to an overwhelming need LEFT: sandalwood forest. (and indeed greed) for this precious TOP: sandalwood drying. wood. Today, sandalwood can be the ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: product of illegal trade by smugglers, sandalwood incense, wooden blocks and or the product of laudably sustainable © DCHAPOULLIÉ; ALAMAY.COM Indian prayer beads forestry projects. So what I set out to do over the next few pages is to find a way through FROM FOREST TO FLACON So what I set out to do over the next followers to ‘Be like sandalwood, few pages is to find a way through which perfumes the axe that cuts it.’ the smoke that shrouds sandalwood Although as far back as 500BC, the in mystery, exploring: how can an great Chinese philosopher already aroma be both spiritual and sinful? warned of the dangers of over- What are the differences between the exploitation. ‘Sandalwood was so various types of sandalwood oils? And lavishly used,’ Celia Lyttelton notes ultimately, how can environmentally in The Scent Trail (Bantam Press), conscious consumers establish whether her wonderfully evocative book on the sandalwood in our perfumes has ingredients, ‘that Confucius recorded been sustainably sourced? that the great sandalwood forests of Perhaps we shouldn’t be surprised the East were in danger of depletion.’ that sandalwood stems from the same It was equally in demand in botanical family as European mistletoe, religious temples and in houses of ill for its milky, skin-like, transcendental repute. Courtesans, Lyttleton reports, scent has spawned many centuries ‘rubbed their breasts with sandalwood of myths and kisses along the way. Dominique Ropion paste, which contains a steroid similar Though several trees of the Santalum to testosterone.’ Demonstrating its family produce fragrant sandalwood, versatility, ‘sandalwood paste was two are most lauded for the quality of also used for fumigation, religious their distilled oil. Santalum album is Sandalwood purification and for embalming the Indian species which for centuries royal corpses.’ According to James has been highly revered, but is now immediately McHugh, ‘sandalwood seems endangered (and highly protected in “ originally to have been ground to a India, as a result). Santalum spicatum makes me think paste or powder, used in medicine is the other, flourishing in the semi-arid to cool and heal the body or applied plains of Southwest Australia. of the epidermis. to the skin as a beautiful, cool and Wherever it grows, the wood is fragrant adornment.’ dense, yellowish, ultra fine-grained It whispers of For many of today’s leading and unique for retaining its aroma for perfumers, sandalwood becomes decades. That’s why traditional Indian sensual skin a go-to ingredient from day one of chests were carved from sandalwood their training. As Givaudan’s Yann to perfume the clothes or precious games. Its woody, Vasnier explains, ‘When I started at objects kept within, and why statues ISIPCA perfumery school in 1996, – particularly of Buddha – are often milky scent perfumers would round up their sculpted from sandalwood, the better formulas with 5-10% – or even more to manifest the scared nature of the presides over an – of Indian sandalwood (Santalum figures they depict. album), sourced from Mysore in In his scholarly exploration, East India. That quality has been the Sandalwood and Carrion: Smell in erotic force, benchmark for adding roundness, Indian Religion and Culture (Oxford richness, creaminess, warmth and University Press), James McHugh an intimate long-lastingness to a fragrance. It also explains the wood was used for this has woody, cedar-y, coniferous and purpose, because ‘…certain qualities discovery animalic facets.’ A wonderful fixative, of sandalwood – its colour, fragrance, it not only smells sublime but works to and coolness – made it an ideal tether other ingredients to the skin. precious material to associate with the Unfortunately, this multi-use oil bodies of enlightened persons.’ ” is neither quickly or easily obtained So no wonder that when the – which explains its huge value. Queen of Sheba visited Solomon, In India, Pakistan and Nepal, the she presented him with scented gifts trees are government-owned and carved from sandalwood. Or that their harvest is controlled. The most he was so awed by the aroma, he fragrant sandalwood is sourced from immediately commissioned musical the heartwood and roots. That core instruments – and huge, elaborately takes a minimum of 15-20 years to wrought pillars for his temples – to be fully mature, which rises to 30-50 years carved from this perfumed material. for the very best quality. When ready Confucius also waxed lyrical about for harvesting, the felled trunk and its the virtues of the tree, urging his dried roots are pulverised into dust, 34 THE scented LETTER distilled by steam, then ultimately Thierry Wasser boiled in copper cauldrons, with the Sandalwood precious red-gold oil separated from the water and poured into flasks. bears witness Over 1,000 kilos of sandalwood dust “ produces just 55 litres of oil. The to the history process takes four days (and the smell produced by the steaming is said to of Eastern be exquisitely soothing). But to wait 50 years for such a civilisations. Its tree to mature has proved too much for some. As a result, in India many wreaths of smoke sandalwood trees have been illegally felled much sooner by ruthless fill temples and smugglers who have in some cases been prepared to kill to get their houses with the hands on this bounty. In 2002, The Times of India fragrance of reported the official figure of India’s TOP: Thierry Wasser sandalwood export at around 400 visits the sustainable woody, creamy, tons. Unofficially, however, when sandalwood smuggling is taken into account, they plantations which estimated it to be more like 2,000 supply Guerlain each warm, mild and year, to meet with tons, with supplies ever-dwindling. growers and inspect spicy notes And it is this illegal trade that has that progress on the project led to an environmental crisis. So to better understand the rising crisis sandalwood faced, Lush’s Simon Constantine (son of founder Mark) ” © DCHAPOULLIÉ travelled to India, New Caledonia, THE scented LETTER 35 FROM FOREST TO FLACON TOP: sandalwood logs drying out before being processed. FAR LEFT: botanical illlustration of sandalwood. LEFT: carved into an Indian religious adornment 24 THE scented LETTER Vanuatu and Australia with buyer successful, to oversee and ensure Agnès Gendry. the highest quality.’ But for Guerlain, As the Lush blog recounts, ‘Their to find an alternative to Indian journey unearthed the shocking story sandalwood was a matter of survival. of Veerappan, a sandalwood smuggler Because as Thierry observes: ‘If you and elephant poacher notorious for don’t have sandalwood, you don’t violence, kidnapping, and murder.’ have Samsara. It’s as simple as that.’ Constantine explains that while they Guerlain is one of many fragrance did discover sources of sandalwood companies making ethical sourcing that were sustainable and ethical, they of sandalwood a priority. Fragrance felt that ‘…we needed to find a way to house Givaudan also has a Santalum pique people’s interest in the source of album project in Australia. ‘We’re lucky raw materials.’ So to draw attention to enough to have ethical and sustainable the problem in an easy-to-understand sources for this ingredient, working and engaging way, Constantine and closely with indigenous Australian Gendry wrote a graphic novel, On communities,’ explains Givaudan’s the Trail of Sandalwood Smugglers Yann Vasnier. Indeed, their exclusive Yann Vasnier (Lush Handwritten), to highlight supplier, Dutiahn, was presented the complexity and importance of with an award for sustainability at ingredient supply chains. the General Assembly of the United Indian As of last year, Indian Santalum Nations, in September this year. album was still on the International For Francis Pickthall, director of sandalwood Union for the Conservation of Nature’s fragrance supplier CPL Aromas, the (IUCN) ‘Red List’ of species at risk of quest for sandalwood also meant “ complete extinction. But perfume looking further afield. ‘Until now, was always the houses realised quite some time ago no sustainability programme for that new sources had to be found. Santalum album has existed in India. benchmark for Guerlain’s in-house perfumer, Thierry So to meet demand, the Sandaforest Wasser, was among those determined Sustainable Plantation was founded in adding roundness, to protect this ‘secret, sacred tree,’ neighbouring Sri Lanka by BioPower which, he reflects, ‘bears witness to in 2007, allowing fragrance houses – richness, the history of Eastern civilisations. including CPL Aromas – to continue Its wreaths of smoke fill temples and to use the best quality sandalwood, creaminess, houses with the fragrance of woody, sourced by sustainably-managed creamy, warm, mild and spicy notes.’ practices, far into the future.’ Over
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