08_549936 ch05.qxd 10/19/05 3:34 PM Page 95 5 Family-Friendly Dining London has gone from culinary laugh- staff on dishes in child-sized portions. ingstock to one of the world’s food capi- Children also love the social aspect of tals in a relatively short space of time. Part sharing a lot of smaller dishes with their of its appeal is its cosmopolitanism—you parents: Restaurants serving Lebanese can enjoy about every cuisine under the meze and Spanish tapas are ideal for this sun here, from Moroccan to Vietnamese. sort of family dining. However, “Modern British” has also This guide focuses on places where you made its mark (classic fare souped up can get good food and a genuine welcome with flavors and techniques from around without breaking the bank, though Lon- the world), and traditional British cook- don is a very expensive city when it comes ing—such as bangers and mash, shep- to dining out. Venues classified as “Inex- herd’s pie, apple crumble, and pensive” are those in which a family of custard—has made a comeback. The four can conceivably eat and drink for attendant stuffiness has gone out of the less than £35 ($67), but these are in short restaurant scene, including dress codes, supply. At restaurants classified as “Mod- and the emphasis now is on healthful erate,” a meal should cost you £35 to food, variety, and flexibility in a relaxing £60 ($67–$114), and this is the category environment. on which this guide focuses. Anything All of this is great news for families, upwards of that is “Expensive.” If these but it means that the competition for figures make your vacation seem imprac- space in this chapter was fierce. As a tical, consider staying someplace with result, many places you’d expect to see self-catering facilities, whether it be an here might not be reviewed. You don’t apartment or a youth hostel. Or take need to be told about such global chains packed lunches or picnics out with you as Planet Hollywood, TGI Friday, and (p. 115) as often as possible. Hard Rock Cafe—suffice it to say that Other good ways to save money are to I’ve been there and I won’t be going back breakfast in a cafe rather than at your in a hurry. Just because a company sets hotel, and to take advantage of early- out to woo kids doesn’t mean there aren’t evening pre-theater menus, or of better placesCOPYRIGHTED to go. “lunch” MATERIAL deals, which often go on till 5 or Don’t assume that a place offering a 6pm. You probably want to feed the kids kids’ menu is the best option: Children early anyway, and you can always order quickly get bored of choosing among room-service snacks after they’ve hit the chicken nuggets, pasta, and pizza. It’s sack. possible to order imaginatively from adult Afternoon teas are an alternative for menus, either by selecting from the those who want to eat early, serving starters and sides, or by consulting the kiddy-pleasing fare such as finger sand- 08_549936 ch05.qxd 10/19/05 3:34 PM Page 96 96 CHAPTER 5 . FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING wiches, scones, and cakes (leaving parents If in doubt, head for an Italian restau- to enjoy a civilized dinner after the chil- rant. Whether it be a family-run trattoria dren are asleep). Yet these are not a or an Italian-inspired chain such as Pizza money-saving option, with an average Express (p. 110), they generally ensure a cream tea costing upwards of £20 ($38) warm welcome and convivial family at a posh hotel, such as The Ritz (150 atmosphere; simple, child-pleasing food; Piccadilly, W1; & 020/7493-8181), and fair prices. Claridge’s (p. 118) and the Dorchester HOURS It’s a rare London restaurant (Park Lane, W1; & 020/7629-8888), or cafe that closes for Sunday these days which is one of the last places in London (though you’ll find some fish specialists serving old-fashioned high teas (substan- closed on Mon); Christmas is the only tial meals that can replace dinner; dishes time when a number of places close. include scrambled eggs and smoked Many now serve food throughout the salmon). Note that you have to book day, without a break between lunch and about 6 weeks ahead for The Ritz, even dinner, especially when they pride them- though there are five sittings daily. Posh selves on catering to families. Hours of hotels are usually the best places in which service are listed in the descriptions to enjoy teas, although the cafe-restaurant below. The Wolseley is an atmospheric new- comer that attracts celebrities in droves. RESERVATIONS Most places, except Pubs are often good places to find rel- pubs, cafes, and fast-food joints, prefer or atively inexpensive, home-cooked food. require reservations, and you nearly Many “gastropubs” (converted pubs always get a better table if you book serving upscale food, often Modern ahead. For famous or very trendy places, British) welcome families, although you’ll you might need to reserve weeks in pay more in such establishments. Some advance, but even if you haven’t, it’s worth pubs don’t allow children at all, but many trying to get in if you are in the area. have certification allowing kids in TAXES & TIPPING All restaurants between specific hours (usually not after and cafes are required to display the 9:30pm), when accompanied by an adult. prices of their food and drink in a place The best way to find out is to ask; www. visible from outside. Charges for service, pubs.com also offers guidance on family- as well as any minimums or cover friendly pubs in London. charges, must also be made clear. For advice on tipping, see p. 59. 1 Restaurants by Cuisine $ = Inexpensive; $$ = Moderate; $$$ = Expensive AMERICAN AFTERNOON TEA Big Easy (Chelsea, $$, p. 119) Café in the Crypt (Trafalgar Square, Harlem Soul Food (Bayswater, $, $, p. 112) p. 124) The Original Maids of Honour Rainforest Café (Piccadilly Circus (Kew, $, p. 131) & Leicester Square, $$, p. 109) The Refectory@Southwark Cathedral Smollensky’s on the Strand (Covent (Southwark, $, p. 128) Garden & the Strand, $$, p. 107) Yauatcha (Soho & Chinatown, $$, Sticky Fingers (Kensington, $$, p. 111) p. 114) Texas Embassy Cantina (Trafalgar Square, $$, p. 112) 08_549936 ch05.qxd 10/19/05 3:34 PM Page 97 RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE 97 ASIAN (MIXED) Yauatcha (Soho & Chinatown, $$, Tiger Lil’s (Islington, $, p. 135) p. 111) Yellow River Café (Islington, $, CREPES p. 135) La Galette (Marylebone, $, p. 103) BELGIAN My Old Dutch Pancake House Belgo Centraal (Covent Garden & the (Bloomsbury, $, p. 104) Strand, $, p. 107) FRENCH BREAKFAST Chez Kristof (Hammersmith, $$$, Bluebird Restaurant (Chelsea, $$$, p. 121) p. 118) Le Bouchon Bordelais (Clapham, Boiled Egg & Soldiers (Clapham, $, $$$, p. 130) p. 130) Lou Pescadou (West Brompton, Café Mozart (Hampstead, $, $$, p. 120) p. 137) GLOBAL Lazy Daisy Café (Notting Hill Gate, $, p. 126) The Blue Kangaroo (Fulham, Smiths of Smithfield (Clerkenwell, $$, p. 122) $$, p. 132) Giraffe (Marylebone, $$, p. 99) BRITISH(MODERN) The Naked Turtle (Richmond, $$, Boxwood Café (Belgravia, $$$, p. 131) p. 118) GREEK The Engineer (Camden Town, $$, p. 133) Lemonia (Primrose Hill, $$, p. 133) Julie’s Restaurant & Bar (Holland INDIAN Park, $$$, p. 127) The Ginger Garden (The City, Quod Restaurant & Bar (Piccadilly $$, p. 131) Circus & Leicester Square, $$, Masala Zone (Earl’s Court, $, p. 108) p. 121) BRITISH Veeraswamy (Mayfair, $$, p. 114) (TRADITIONAL) ITALIAN Porter’s English Restaurant (Covent Bar Italia (Soho & Chinatown, $, Garden & the Strand, $$, p. 107) p. 112) S&M Café (Ladbroke Grove, $, Buona Sera at the Jam p. 126) (Chelsea, $, p. 120) BURGERS Carluccio’s Caffè (Fitzrovia, $, Babes ’n’ Burgers (Ladbroke Grove, $, p. 103) p. 124) Frankie’s Italian Bar & Grill Ed’s Easy Diner (Hampstead, $, (Knightsbridge, $$, p. 118) p. 137) Frizzante@City Farm (Hackney, Gourmet Burger Kitchen $, p. 138) (Bayswater, $, p. 124) La Famiglia (Chelsea, $$, p. 119) La Spighetta (Marylebone, $$, CHINESE p. 102) Royal China (Marylebone, $$, Loco Mensa (South Bank, $$, p. 128) p. 102) Locanda Locatelli (Marylebone, $$$, p. 99) 08_549936 ch05.qxd 10/19/05 3:34 PM Page 98 98 CHAPTER 5 . FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING Metrogusto (Islington, $$$, MODERN EUROPEAN p. 134) Bank Aldwych (Covent Garden & Quod Restaurant & Bar (Piccadilly the Strand, $$, p. 105) Circus & Leicester Square, $$, Bluebird Restaurant (Chelsea, $$$, p. 108) p. 118) The River Café (Hammersmith, The Prince Alfred & Formosa Dining $$$, p. 122) Room (Maida Vale, $$, p. 123) JAPANESE Wagamama (Bloomsbury, $, MOROCCAN p. 105) Original Tagines (Marylebone, $$, p. 102) KOSHER Blooms (Golders Green, $$, PIZZA & PASTA p. 137) Italian Graffiti (Soho & Chinatown, $$, p. 109) LEBANESE Fresco (Bayswater, $, p. 123) PORTUGUESE Lisboa Patisserie (Ladbroke Grove, $, LUNCH & SNACKS p. 126) Bar Italia (Soho & Chinatown, $, p. 112) SEAFOOD Boiled Egg & Soldiers (Clapham, $, Café Fish (Piccadilly Circus & Leicester p. 130) Square, $$, p. 108) Bush Garden Café & Food Store fish! (Southbank, $$, p. 128) (Shepherd’s Bush, $, p. 127) Fishworks (Marylebone, $$$, Café Mozart (Hampstead, $, p. 99) p. 137) Lou Pescadou (West Brompton, Café in the Crypt (Trafalgar Square, $$, p. 120) $, p. 112) SPANISH/TAPAS Lazy Daisy Café (Notting Hill Gate $, p. 126) Café Kick (Shoreditch, $$, p. 133) The Original Maids of Honour (Kew, THAI $, p. 131) The Blue Elephant (Fulham, The Refectory@Southwark Cathedral $$$, p. 121) (Southwark, $, p. 128) Thai Pavilion (Soho & Chinatown, Smiths of Smithfield (Clerken- $$, p. 110) well, $$, p. 132) Zoomslide Café (Piccadilly Circus & TURKISH Leicester Square, $, p. 109) Sofra (Mayfair, $, p. 114) MEDITERRANEAN VEGETARIAN Draper’s Arms (Islington, $$, Manna (Primrose Hill, $, p. 134) p. 135) The Place Below (The City, $, Sarastro (Covent Garden & the p. 132) Strand, $$$, p. 105) World Food Café (Covent Garden, $, p. 108) MEXICAN Café Pacifico (Covent Garden & the VIETNAMESE Strand, $, p.