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Plan Your Trip 12

Amsterdam

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

CATHERINE LE NEVEZ, KATE MORGAN, BARBARA WOOLSEY Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to If You Like...... 20 Museums & ...... 4 ...... Month by Month...... 23 Galleries 40 Amsterdam’s Top 10...... 6 ...... Travel with Kids...... 26 Eating 43 What’s New...... 13 By Bike...... 29 Drinking & ...... Need to Know...... 14 Nightlife 48 Like a Local...... 31 ...... First Time Entertainment 55 For Free...... 33 Amsterdam...... 16 Shopping...... 57 Canals...... 35 Top Itineraries...... 18

Explore Amsterdam 60

Neighbourhoods Southern & at a Glance...... 62 Canal Ring...... 118 East of the ...... 189 Medieval Centre & & the West....136 Amsterdam Noord.....198 Red Light District...... 64 & Daytrips , the South...... 151 from Amsterdam.... 206 & the Eastern Islands.....87 ...... 175 Sleeping...... 217 Western Canal Ring....104

Understand Amsterdam 229

Amsterdam Today....230 Dutch Painting...... 242 Dutch Design...... 258 History...... 232 Architecture in Amsterdam...... 250

Survival Guide 261

Transport...... 262 Language...... 272 Directory A–Z...... 267 Index...... 280

Amsterdam Maps 288 WILL SALTER/LONELY PLANET © CLAIRE BISSELL/LONELY PLANET © e t s

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Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

Vondelpark & the South (p151) De Pijp (p175) M Begin with the biggies: tram to the M Browse the Albert Cuypmarkt, Museum Quarter to ogle the master­ Amsterdam’s largest street bazaar, pieces at the Van Gogh Museum and where stalls are piled high with cheeses, ­ . They’ll be crowded, so make fish, stroopwafels (syrup-filled waffles) and sure you’ve prebooked tickets. Modern-art bargain-priced clothing. Then submit to the buffs might want to swap the Stedelijk Heineken Experience to get shaken up, Museum for one of the others. They’re all heated up and ‘bottled’ like the beer you’ll lined up in a walkable row. drink at the end of the brewery tour.

Lunch Slow food Gartine (p74) grows Lunch Bakers & Roasters (p184) does many ingredients in its garden. brunch best (and all day).

Medieval Centre (p64) Southern Canal Ring (p118) Spend the afternoon in the Medieval Cross into the Southern Canal Ring R Centre. Explore the secret courtyard R and stroll along the grand Golden and gardens at the Begijnhof. Walk up the Bend. Visit Museum Van Loon for a peek street to the Dam, where the Royal Palace, into the opulent canal-house lifestyle, or get Nieuwe Kerk and Nationaal Monument a dose of kitty quirk at the Kattenkabinet. huddle and provide a dose of Dutch history. Browse the Bloemenmarkt and behold the Bend over to sip your jenever (Dutch gin) wild array of bulbs. like a local at Wynand Fockink. Dinner Organic dishes and canal views Dinner Cutting-edge Indonesian food at at Buffet van Odette (p125). Ron Gastrobar Downtown (p75). Southern Canal Ring (p118) Red Light District (p64) When the sun sets, it’s time to par- Venture into the Red Light District. N tee at hyperactive, neon-lit Leidse- N A walk down Warmoesstraat or plein. and host the nearby takes in coolest agendas. Otherwise, the good-time an eye-popping array of fetish-gear shops, clubs and brown cafes around the square live sex shows, smoky coffeeshops and, of beckon. Try beery Café de Spuyt or his­ course, women in day-glo lingerie beckon­ toric Eijlders. For serious all-hours club­ ing from crimson windows. Then settle in to bing, head out of the centre to venues like a brown cafe (traditional Dutch pub), such Warehouse Elementenstraat. as In ’t Aepjen. 19 ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © NIKOLAY ANTONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK© PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Het Scheepvaartmuseum (p94) Heineken Experience (p177) T

Day Three Day Four o p I tine

Vondelpark & the South (p151) Nieuwmarkt, Plantage & Take a spin around Amsterdam’s be­ the Eastern Islands (p87) M e rari loved Vondelpark. Elongated and M Mosey through narrow (about 1.5km long and 300m wide), Flea Market in Nieuwmarkt. it’s easy to explore via a morning jaunt. All sure loved markets, if his s the better if you have a bicycle to zip by the nearby studio is any indication. Museum ponds, gardens and sculptures. het Rembrandthuis gives a peek at the master’s inner sanctum. Neighbouring Lunch Head to Bistro Bij Ons (p110) for Gassan Diamonds gives free tours. Or timeless Dutch favourites. check out the intriguing Verzetsmuseum, the Resistance Museum, or sea treasures at Het Scheepvaartmuseum.

Western Canal Ring (p104) Lunch Try a hot-spiced Surinamese Immerse yourself in the Negen sandwich at Tokoman (p95). R Straatjes, a noughts-and-crosses board of speciality shops. The Anne Frank Huis is also in the neighbourhood, and it’s a must. The claustrophobic rooms, Amsterdam Noord (p198) their windows still covered with blackout Hop on a free ferry to Noord, one screens, give an all-too-real feel for Anne’s R of the city’s coolest, most up-and- life in hiding. Seeing the diary itself – coming neighbourhoods. Check out the filled with her sunny writing tempered cinematic exhibits at the EYE Film Insti- tute and the artists’ studios in the sprawl­ Dinner Canal views rival exceptional ing Kunststad centre at former shipyards modern cuisine at De Belhamel (p110). NDSM-werf. Ascend A’DAM Tower for

Dinner Views peak at Moon (p202), the with quiet despair – is moving, plain and revolving restaurant atop A’DAM Tower. simple.

dazzling views across the IJ River to the Jordaan (p136) city centre. Spend the evening in the Jordaan, N the chummy district embodying the Amsterdam of yore. Hoist a glass on Oosterpark & a canal-side terrace at ’t Smalle, join the East of the Amstel (p189) houseboat party at Café P 96, or quaff There are some fantastic nightlife beers at heaps of other gezellig (cosy) N venues in Noord; alternatively, back haunts. on the city side of the IJ, an evening spent on the terrace at De Ysbreeker, looking ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 278

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS the many people in Amsterdam who provided assistance and gave me local tips along the way. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Finally, a huge thanks to my partner Trent for edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful travelling with me and for all of your support. advice and interesting anecdotes: Becca Williams, Emma Wilding, Imogen Lockyer, Barbara Woolsey Noni May, Véronique Baar, Viktoria Pohl A big heartfelt thanks to all those who have helped in my career along the way, leading to this dream WRITER THANKS of completing my first Lonely Planet project (in no Catherine Le Nevez particular order): Clair Woolsey, Remy Woolsey, Hartelijk bedankt first and foremost to Julian, and René Frank, Marlene Dow and family, Debby Har- to everyone in Amsterdam and throughout the ris, Dixie Michie, Brenda Woolsey-Hartford, Bhec who provided insights, inspiration and Fernandez, Alyssa Gabrielle and Allexa Scarlet good times during this update and over the years. Masongsong, Nolan Janssen, Marc Linneweber, Huge thanks too to my Amsterdam co-authors Alexa Kaminsky, Garth and Gloria Pickard, Andrea Kate and Barbara, and to Matt Phillips, Dan Fahey Schulte-Peevers and Nicola Williams. and everyone at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur, neveu and nièce. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Cover photograph: at night, little- Kate Morgan wormy/Getty Images © A big thank you to Destination Editor Matt Phillips Amsterdam Transport Network Map © GVB for commissioning me to work on this fantastic Amsterdam. Map designed by Carto Studio, city. Thank you to Christa Doorhof and all of the Amsterdam staff at I Amsterdam for your assistance, and to 279 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK Destination Editors Daniel Assisting Editors James Fahey, Matt Phillips Bainbridge, Michelle Ben- This 12th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors nett, Gemma Graham, Lorna Planet’s Amsterdam guide- Sandie Kestell, Genna Pat- Parkes, Tamara Sheward, book was researched and terson Simon Williamson written by Catherine Le Regional Senior Cartographers Hunor Nevez, Kate Morgan and Cartographer Mark Griffiths Csutoros, Mick Garrett Barbara Woolsey. The previ- Product Editor Barbara Cover Researcher Meri ous edition was also written Delissen Blazevski by Catherine, with Abigail Book Designer Jessica Rose Thanks to Sasha Drew, Paul Blasi. This guidebook was Harding, Gabrielle Stefanos produced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 280

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P283 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P285 3 ENTERTAINMENT P286 7 SHOPPING P286 4 SLEEPING P287 Index 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P287

Amsterdam Light Festival Beurs van Berlage 71 museums & galleries 39 A 25, 25 bicycling, see cycling photography 124 abolition of slavery Amsterdam Museum 70 Bijbels Museum 108 111 monument 192 Amsterdam Noord 63, 198- Blauwbrug 122 120, 124 accessible travel 267 205, 256, 198, 319 Bloemenmarkt 121, 20 tours 10, 10 accommodation 13, 15, 39, accommodation 228 217-28 138 cannabis 51-2, see cycling tour 203, also drugs Amsterdam Noord 228 203 blues 56 drinking & nightlife 199, Cannabis College 72 costs 218 boating 202-5 car travel 264, 265 De Pijp 227 hire 38, 186 entertainment 205 castles 27 designer hotels 260 rules 36 food 199, 201-2 cats 109, 122-3, 150 East Amsterdam 228 tours 37-8, 266, 10 highlights 198, 200 cell phones 271 Eastern Islands 221 boat travel 34, 100, 264 shopping 199, 205 Jordaan 224-5 books 59, 230, 235 Centraal Station 69, 262-3, sights 200-1 language 272-3 borrel 51 250 transport 199 Medieval Centre 220-1 Breitner, George Hendrik cheese 45, 57, 33, 43 Amsterdam Pipe Museum 246, 245 museums 138 Nieuwmarkt 221 121 breweries tastings 116, 202 Plantage 221 Amsterdam School 254 Amsterdam Noord 204, chemists 269 Red Light District 220-1 Amsterdam Tulip Museum 204-5 children, travel with 26-8, South Amsterdam 225-7 138 De Pijp 186 56, see also playgrounds Southern Canal Ring 160, 168 Plantage 99, 82 farms 160 222-4 Anne Frank Huis 12, 41, 106- Red Light District 73, 79 museums 26-7, 42 West Amsterdam 224-5 7, 12, 106 South Amsterdam 169 toy shops 103, 117, 135, Western Canal Ring 222 Anne Frank statue 61 West Amsterdam 147 150, 172, 174 activities 21, see also indi- antiques 57, 59 vidual activities, Sports Brinker, Hans 238 zoos 26, 93 ARCAM 33, 95 & Activities subindex Brouwerij De Prael 73 Children’s Museum 91 architecture 21, 250-7, 266 A’DAM Tower 200 138 cinemas 27, 55, 56 art galleries, see museums airports 262 Civic Guard Gallery 33, 70 & galleries brown cafes 9, 49, 54, 8 Ajax 197 classical music 55, 56 arts, see architecture, budgeting 14, 56 climate 15 Albert Cuypmarkt 33, literature, painting Burcht van climbing 174 178, 17 Artis Royal Zoo 26, 93 (Leiden) 211 clubbing 52-3, see also Allard Pierson Museum 70 ATMs 269 bus travel 262, 263-4 Drinking & Nightlife ambulance 268 business hours 41, 44, 49, Auschwitz Memorial 92 subindex Amstelkerk 123 56, 58, 270 CoBrA 162, 249 161 Cobra Museum 162 Amstelsluizen 123 B C cocktail bars 54 Amsterdam American babysitting services 27 Bakenesserkerk () cafés 49, see also Drinking coffee 13, 51, 54 Hotel 125 & Nightlife subindex 208 coffeeshops 49, 51, 52, 54, Amsterdam Cheese Calvinism 233 Museum 138 Bartolotti House 257 79, see also Drinking & canal houses 254 Nightlife subindex Amsterdam Dance Event bathrooms 271 (ADE) 24 beaches 27, 100 canals 26, 35-9, 38, 35, 37, comedy 55, 56 83, 253 beer 13, 49-51, 54, 86, see Corrie ten Boom House also breweries Brouwersgracht 138 (Haarlem) 208 festivals & events 24, 39 costs 14, 44, 218, 267-8, 270 Sights 000 Begijnhof 33, 67, 67 109, 124 credit cards 269-70 Map Pages 000 Below the Surface 69 highlights 39 currency 269 Photo Pages 000 Berlage, Hendrik Petrus 254 customs regulations 267 281 Cuypers, Pierre 253 driving, see car travel Flemish School 242-3 history 232-41 cycling 11, 29-30, 31, 264, Droog 258, 260 191 events 32 3, 11, 26, 29, 82-3 drugs 51-2, 72, 268, 50 Foam 120 Jewish history 92, 102, hire 27, 29 Dutch School 243 food 13, 43-7, 28, 33, 106-7, 237, 239 language 276 see also Eating museums 42 parking 231 subindex, individual sights 22, 240, 253

rules 30 E neighbourhoods hoists 254 INDEX East Amsterdam 63, 189- brunch 184 tours 30, 203, 203 holidays 270 97, 189, 318 costs 44 websites 30 Hollandsche Manege 161 accommodation 228 for children 28 Hollandsche C

drinking & nightlife 190, -

highlights 22, 39, 46-7 Schouwburg 92 J 195-6 D language 273-5 Homomonument 109 entertainment 196-7 Dam 69 shops 59 Hortus Botanicus 93 food 190, 193-5 Dappermarkt 192 football 197 Hortus Botanicus Leiden highlights 189, 191 De Dageraad 177 Frankendael House 191 (Leiden) 211 shopping 190, 197 De Drie Hendricken 138 Museum – Hal hospitals 269 De Duif 123-4 sights 191-3 (Haarlem) 207 Hotel de l’ 128 De Gooyer Windmill 93 transport 190 Frans Hals Museum – Hof House of Bols 162 De Hallen 165 Eastern Islands 62, 87-103, (Haarlem) 207 Houseboat Museum 138 256, 87, 298 De Pijp 63, 175-88, 175, free attractions 33-4, 56 houseboats 36 accommodation 221 316-17 Houten Huis 67 drinking & nightlife accommodation 227 141 88, 101 G drinking & nightlife 176, gables 251, 253 Hudson, Henry 237 185-7 entertainment 101-2 galleries 21-2, 42, see also Huis Marseille 108 entertainment 187 food 88, 97-8 individual museums & Huis met de Hoofden 109 food 176, 178-85 highlights 87 galleries Huis met de Kabouters shopping 88, 103 highlights 175, 177, 178 gardens 21 177, 182 sights 94-5 shopping 176, 187-8 Gassan Diamonds 33, 91 transport 88 sights 177, 178 gay travellers, see LGBT+ transport 176 138 travellers I ice cream 28, 47 De Ridammerhoeve 160 Electric Ladyland 139 Gijsbert Dommer Huis 124 De Rode Hoed 109 electricity 268 Golden Age 233-5, 243-6 ice skating 26, 36, 37, 37 De Schreeuw memorial 192 Electrische Museumtram- Golden Bend 120 ID papers 268 lijn Amsterdam 162 De Stijl 249 golden torso 68 IJburg 100, 256 emergencies 275 De Valk (Leiden) 211 Grachtenfestival 24 immigration 240 Engelse Kerk 67 internet access 268 213-16, 214 Grachtenhuis, Het 41, 108 entertainment 55-6, see Delftware 57, 154, 215 grand cafés 49 itineraries 18-19 also Entertainment design 258-60 subindex, individual Great Synagogue 91 development 230-1 neighbourhoods Greenland Warehouses 113 J Diamond Museum 161 for children 56 Groene & Grauwe Valk 146 jazz 55, 56, 84 disabilities, travellers free 34 Grote Kerk van St Bavo jenever 51, 80, 49 with 267 highlights 56 (Haarlem) 207 distilleries 114, 195 discount cards 267-8 opening hours 56 museums 162 discount tickets 56 92-3, 255 H Jewish culture distilleries 114, 195 Escher, MC 249 Haarlem 207-9, 208 history 92, 102, 106-7, Dockworker Statue 92 etiquette 17 Haarlemmerbuurt 114 161, 237, 239 Drieharingenbrug 139 events 23-5, 32, 39, 142, Haarlemmerpoort memorials 92, 177 drinking & nightlife 13, 48- 258 139-40 museums 91, 108, 208 54, 53, 48, 49, 50, see EYE Film Institute 34, Hals, Frans 207, 245, 244 synagogues 90-1 also Drinking & Night- 201, 257 Johnny Jordaanplein 139 life subindex, individual Hash, Marijuana & Hemp neighbourhoods Museum 72 27, 91 highlights 22, 39, 54 F Heineken Experience 41, Jordaan 9, 63, 136-50, 136, opening hours 49 fashion 57, 59, 259-60 177, 19 308-9, 310-11 drinks 49, 51, see also Fashion for Good 69 Herengracht 109, 124 accommodation 224-5 breweries, distilleries ferries 34, 100, 264 Hermitage Amsterdam 121 drinking & nightlife 137, beer 13, 49-51, 54, 86 herrings 181 festivals 23-5, 32, 39, 144-7 coffee 13, 51, 54 142, 258 Het Grachtenhuis 41, 108 entertainment 148-9 jenever 51, 80, 162, film 230 Het Scheepvaartmuseum 49 food 137, 140-2 wine 51, 54 fire brigade 268 27, 94, 19 highlights 6-12 highlights 136 282 Jordaan continued flowers 121 narrow houses 92 parking 265 shopping 137, 149-50 homewares 165, 178 Nationaal Monument 70 parks 21 sights 138-40 produce 103, 149, 165, Naturalis Biodiversity pedal boats 174 transport 137 178, 192, 197 Centre (Leiden) 211-12 269 walks 146, 146 stamps 85 NDSM-werf 200, 182 photography 72, 120, Markt (Delft) 215 NEMO Science Museum 27, 124, 139

INDEX INDEX measures 270 34, 94, 252 Pianola Museum 138 K medical services 269 newspapers 270 Pieterskerk (Leiden) 211 Kattenkabinet 122-3 Medieval Centre 62, 64-86, Nieuw Amsterdam 237 Pintohuis 90 kayaking 174

J 64, 290-1, 294-5, 5 Nieuwe Kerk 71 planning - Keukenhof 211 R accommodation 220-1 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 215 Amsterdam basics 14-15 King Willem-Alexander 241 drinking & nightlife Nieuwe Kerk (Haarlem) Amsterdam’s neighbour- King’s Day 12, 23, 34, 12 65, 77-9 209 hoods 62-3, 62-3 Kleine Trippenhuis 92 entertainment 81 Nieuwendammerdijk 200 budgeting 14, 33-4, 44, KLM 236, 241 food 65, 74-6 Nieuwmarkt 62, 87-103, 267-8 Koninklijk Paleis 66, 66 highlights 64, 66-7, 70, 71 87, 296-7 children, travel with 26-8 Kraanspoor 201, 256 shopping 65, 84-6 accommodation 221 festivals & events 23-5 Krijtberg 121 sights 66-7, 69-72 drinking & nightlife first-time visitors 16-17 Krijtmolen d’Admiraal 203 transport 65 88, 99 itineraries 18-19 Kuan Yin Shrine 72 metro travel 231, 263 entertainment 101-2 local life 31-2 Kunststad 33, 200-1, 33 Micropia 93 food 88, 95-6 museums 41 Miffy 174 highlights 87, 89, 91 repeat visitors 13 minigolf 103 shopping 88, 102-3 travel seasons 15 L mobile phones 271 sights 89, 90-2, 97 websites 14 language 17, 272-7 Moco Museum 160 sports & activites 103 Plantage 62, 87-103, 87, Laurens Coster Statue transport 88 (Haarlem) 207 Mokum 238 298-9 Night Watch statues legal matters 268 Mondrian, Piet 249 accommodation 221 money 14, 44, 58, 218, 120, 183 drinking & nightlife 88, Leiden 210-13, 212 267-8, 269-70 Night Watch, The 153-4, 99-101 Leiden American Pilgrim Montelbaanstoren 91, 251 244, 6-7 entertainment 101-2 Museum (Leiden) 211 Moooi 258 nightlife, see drinking & food 88, 96-7 Leiden University nightlife (Leiden) 211 192 highlights 87, 93, 94 139 120 Muiderpoort 93 sights 92-3, 94 Noorderpark 11 Lelystad Airport 262 Muiderslot (Muiden) 192 transport 88 Leyster, Judith 243 Multatuli Museum 109 Plastic Whale 13, 266 LGBT+ travellers 24, 53, 54, Munttoren 128 O playgrounds 26 133, 147, 268 Museum De Lakenhal OBA: Centrale Bibliotheek East Amsterdam 193 liquorice 148 (Leiden) 210 Amsterdam 27, 95 Nieuwmarkt 103 literature 230, 233, 235 Museum het Rem- Old Church 68, 68 South Amsterdam 159, local life 31-2 brandthuis 89, 89 Olympic Stadium 161-2 160, 161, 164, 168, 171 Museum Het Schip 140 Oost, see East Amsterdam Poezenboot 109 Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer Oosterpark 63, 192-3 poffertjes 28 op Solder 73 M Oosterpark area, see East 268 Madame Tussauds Museum Paul Tetar van Amsterdam population 231 Amsterdam 70 Elven (Delft) 215 Oost-Indisch Huis 91-2 Portuguese-Israelite magazines 270 Museum Van Loon 122 opening hours 41, 44, 49, Synagogue 90-1 Magere Brug 120-1 Museum Volkenkunde 56, 58, 270 postal services 270 marijuana 51-2, , see (Leiden) 210-11 50 opera 56 Pride Amsterdam 24 also drugs Museum Willet-Holthuysen Oude Kerk 68, 68 Prinsengracht 111 markets 10, 22, 57-8, 59, 11 123 Oude Kerk (Delft) 215 Priopass 269 antiques 102 160 Oudekerkstoren 68 prostitution 73, 74, 84, 268 art 85-6 museums & galleries 20, Prostitution Information clothing 149, 178, 192 21-2, 26-7, 39, 40-2, see also individual Centre 73 fabrics 149, 165, 178 museums & galleries P (Haarlem) flea markets 102, 149 paddle boarding 100 music 55, 56 208 painting 242-9, 242, 244, public holidays 270 245, 247 Sights 000 N Pampus 192 Map Pages 000 NAP Visitors Centre 97 Papegaai 71 R Photo Pages 000 Napoleon, Louis 236 Park Frankendael 191 Rapenhofje 146 Ravestijn Gallery 139 283 Red Light District 62, 64- South Amsterdam 63, 151- tours 266, see also walking West Amsterdam 63, 136- 86, 64, 290-1, 294-5 74, 151, 312-13 tours 50, 136, 303 accommodation 220-1 accommodation 225-7 boat 37-8, 266, 10 accommodation 224-5 drinking & nightlife 65, drinking & nightlife 152, cycling 30, 203, 203 drinking & nightlife 137, 79-81 167-71 train travel 262-3, 264 147-8 entertainment 81 entertainment 171-2 trams 264 entertainment 148-9

food 65, 76-7 food 152, 162-7 travel passes 265 food 137, 142-4 INDEX highlights 64, 68, 73 highlights 151, 153-9 travel to Amsterdam 15, highlights 136 shopping 65, 86 shopping 152, 172-4 262-4 shopping 137, 149-50

sights 66-8, 72-3 sights 153-9, 160-2 travel within Amsterdam sights 140 R transport 65 transport 152 15, 34, 264-6 transport 137 -Z walks 78, 78 walks 168, 168 Trippenhuis 92 Westergasfabriek 140, Red Light Secrets 73 Southern Canal Ring 63, Trompettersteeg 73 145 Reguliersgracht 120, 124 118-35, 118, 304 Tropenmuseum 27, 191, 40 108 religion 231, 233 accommodation 222-4 tulip bulbs 57 Westerkerk Bell Tower Rembrandt 89, 146, 153, drinking & nightlife 119, tulips 234, 20 108, 255 243-5, 183 127-32 Western Canal Ring 63, 104-17, , , 120, entertainment 119, 132-4 104 300 302 V 183 food 119, 124-7 accommodation 222 Van Gogh Museum 7, 27, 41, drinking & nighlife 105, Riekermolen 160, 161 highlights 118, 121, 156-7, 7, 156 112-14 Rietveld, Gerrit 249, 254 122, 123 shopping 134-5 van Gogh, Vincent 156-7, entertainment 114 Rijksmuseum 7, 41, 153-5, 248, 247 sights 120-4 food 105, 109-12 155, 6-7, 34 vegan travellers 13, 47, 98, transport 119 highlights 104, 106-7 Rijksmuseum Boerhaave 125, 143, 144, 163, 164, shopping 105, 114-17 (Leiden) 210 walks 128, 128 193-4 sights 106-7, 108-9 Rijksmuseum gardens 33 souvenirs 57, 59, 17 vegetarian travellers Rijksmuseum van Spiegel Quarter 128 126, see also vegan transport 105 Oudheden (Leiden) 210 Spreeksteen 192 travellers walks 113, 113 road rules 265 71 Vereniging Museumhaven Western Islands 139 95 rock music 55, 56 squats 170 140 Vermeer Centrum Delft romantic spots 22 St Nicolaaskerk 69-70 West-Indisch Huis 108 (Delft) 215 Ronde Lutherse Kerk 72 Stadhuis (Haarlem) 207 wi-fi 33, 49 Vermeer, Johannes 153, Royal Delft (Delft) 215 Stadsarchief 33, 121-2 windmills 20-1, 24 215, 246, 247 Royal Palace 66, 252, 66 Amsterdam 93, 160, 203, statue of Belle 68 Verzetsmuseum 27, 94 82, 161 Stedelijk Museum 41, visas 14, 271 158, 158 Leiden 211 S Vondelbunker 170 Steen, Jan 153, 244, 246, Zaanse Schans 216, safety 16 Vondelpark 9, 63, 159, 170, 242 25, 82 Sarphati Memorial 177 3, 9, 159 Stopera 91 windsurfing 100 177 Vondelpark area, see South wine 51, 54 Scheepvaarthuis 90 Submarine B-80 201 Amsterdam women travellers 271 Scheepvaartmuseum, Het sustainability 21, 36-7, 231 WWII 237-8, 239 27, 94, swimming 27, 174 19 W Schiphol International W139 73 Airport 262 T Waag 90 Z Schreierstoren 71-2 Zaanse Schans 216, , Tassenmuseum Hendrikje walking tours 266 25 82 sea level 97 122 Zaanse Schans Windmills Amsterdamse Bos 168, Sexmuseum Amsterdam 71 (Zaanse Schans) 216, taxes 58, 270 168 Sexyland 201 taxis 262, 265-6 25, 82 Jordaan 146, 146 shopping 57-9, 259, see telephone services 270-1 Zandhoek 139 Red Light District 78, 78 also markets, Shopping Tetar van Elven, Paul 215 zoos 26, 93 subindex, individual Southern Canal Ring (Haarlem) Zuiderkerk 90 neighbourhoods 128, 128 208 children, travel with 28 Western Canal Ring theatre 55, 56 highlights 59 113, 113 theatre cafés 49 5 EATING language 275 Wanders, Marcel 258 time 271 opening hours 58 weather 15 tipping 44, 270 skating 174, see also ice websites 14, 15, 30, 44, 56, A toilets 271 skating 218, 260 Adam 167 Torensluis 113 smoking 270 weights 270 Alchemist Garden 164 tourist information 271 soccer 197 Wertheimpark 92 Apostrof 144 284 Arles 181 Cottage 194 Golden Temple 126 Avocado Show 184 Crêperie Bretonne Cocotte Graham’s Kitchen 185 M 74 Greetje 98 Mamouche 185 CT Coffee & Coconuts 184 Guts 127 Mangiancora 181 B Mantoe 141 Bakers & Roasters 184 Marits Eetkamer 193-4 Bakken met Passie 179 D H INDEX INDEX Marius 144 Balthazar’s Keuken 141 Daalder 142 Hangar 202 Massimo 179 Banketbakkerij Van der De Bakkerswinkel 143 Hap Hmm 163 Mastino V 143 Linde 75 De Belhamel 110 Happyhappyjoyjoy 98

EATING Meatless District 144 Bar Fisk 181 De Blauwe Hollander 126 Hemelse Modder 96 Merkelbach 195 Beter & Leuk 193 De Bosbaan Cafe 166 Herengracht Restaurant & Miss Korea BBQ 185 Bird Snackbar 76 De Carrousel 124 Bar 127 Moeders 142 Bistro Bij Ons 110 De Haerlemsche Vlaamse Het IJsboefje 193 Moer 164 Bistrot Neuf 111 (Haarlem) 209 Hofje van Wijs 76 Monte Pelmo 140 Black & Blue 111 De Italiaan 164-5 Holy Ravioli 163 Moon 202 Blue Pepper 167 De Kas 195 Hotel de Goudfazant 201-2, Mossel En Gin 143 Bo Nam 127 De Laatste Kruimel 74 182 Mr & Mrs Watson 193 Boca’s 141 De Luwte 111 De Peper 170 Mr Haz 140 Boerderij Meerzicht 164 I De Plantage 97-8 Bojo 127 IJsboutique 163 De Prins 142 Bonboon 98 IJscuypje N Bouchon du Centre 126-7 De Reiger 143 (Amstelveenseweg) 163 Nam Kee 76 Box Sociaal 97 De Silveren Spiegel 76 IJscuypje (Plantage) 96 NAP 100 Braai BBQ Bar 162-3 De Soepbar 74 IJsmolen 97 Narbonne 166 Brasserie de Engelenbak De Struisvogel 112 Il Pecorino 202 New King 76-7 (Leiden) 212 De Tropen 193 In de Buurt 126 Nyonya 96 Brasserie De Joffers 166 De Waag (Delft) 216 In den Doofpot (Leiden) Brasserie SenT 184 Dèsa 180-1 213 O Brasserie ’t Crabbetje Dignita Hoftuin 125 Instock 98 OCHA Thai 95 (Delft) 216 Dignita Vondelpark 163 Ivy & Bros 76 Omelegg 180 Breakfast Club 163 Dikke Graaf 164 Oudt Leyden (Leiden) 212 Breda 112 Dutch Delicacy 75 J Brick (Haarlem) 209 Dutch Weed Burger Joint Broodje Bert 75 163 Jacobz 194 P Buffet van Odette 125 D’Vijff Vlieghen 75 Jordino 141 Pancake Bakery 111 Butcher 179 Pancakes! 110 E K Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs 75 C Eatmosfera 127 Kanarie Club 165 Pantry 125-6 Café Americain 125 Eddy Spaghetti 194 Kek (Delft) 215-16 Pastis 166-7 Café George 126 Éénvistwéévis 98 Kompaszaal 98 Patisserie Holtkamp 126 Café Kadijk 97 Eetcafe Ibis 194-5 Pazzi 141 Cafe Modern 202 Eetcafé MKZ 170 L Petit Gâteau 110 Cafe Mojo 194 Escobar 181 Lalibela 167 Piet de Leeuw 127 Café Restaurant van Espressofabriek 100 Landmarkt 201 Poco Loco 96 Puffelen 111 Lanskroon 75 Poké Perfect 125 Café Smit en Voogt 97 96 F Pont 13 141 Café Toussaint 167 Latei 96 Foodhallen 165 Proeflokaal Kef 202 Café van Leeuwen 126 Le Cœur 110-11 Fou Fow Ramen 181 Puro Cucina (Delft) 216 Cafe-Restaurant Dauphine Le Salonard 178 194 Frank’s Smokehouse 97 Frenzi 96 l’Entrecôte et les Dames Cafe-Restaurant Stork 202 166 R Frites uit Zuyd 180 Carter 166 Little Collins (De Pijp) 184 Raïnaraï 143 Ciel Bleu 185 Little Collins (West REM Eiland 141 Coba 202 G Amsterdam) 143 Renzo’s 164 Gartine 74 Lo Stivale d’Oro 127 Restaurant Blauw 167 Gebr Hartering 98 Lot en de Walvis (Leiden) Restaurant Bloem 100 Sights 000 Gebr Niemeijer 74-5 213 Restaurant De Knijp 166 Map Pages 000 Geflipt 179 Louie Louie 193 Restaurant Mr & Mrs Photo Pages 000 George Bistro Bistro 166 Lunchroom Wilhelmina 164 (Haarlem) 209 285 Restaurant Sinne 185 Venkel 179 De School 52 Rijks 167 Vinnies Deli 110 C De Sluyswacht 99 Rob Wigboldus Vishan- Vleminckx 74 Café Bédier 169-70 De Trut 147 del 75 Volendammer Vishandel Café Belgique 77 De Twee Zwaantjes 145 Ron Gastrobar 167 179 Café Berkhout 187 De Vondeltuin 169 Ron Gastrobar Downtown Volt 185 Café Binnen Buiten 187 De Ysbreeker 195

75-6 Café Brecht 130-1 DeDakkas (Haarlem) 209 INDEX Ron Gastrobar Oriental 125 W Café Chris 145 Distilleerderij ’t Nieuwe Roopram Roti 193 Cafe Cuba 99 Waargenoegen 201 Diep 195

Rose’s Cantina 126 Café de Ceuvel 202-4 DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE Warung Mini Ceintuurbaan Dolphins Coffeeshop 132 180 Café de Dokter 77 Door 74 129 S WG Cafe 165 Cafe de Engelbewaarder Drupa 145 99 Salsa Shop 124 White Room 77 Duke of Tokyo 129 Café de Jordaan 145 Scandinavian Embassy 184 Wil Graanstra Friteshuis Café de Spuyt 131 Sea Salt & Chocolate 179 110 Café de Vergulde Gaper 114 E Seafood Bar 165 Wilde Zwijnen 194 Café de Wetering 130 Eagle 81 Semhar 142 Winkel 140 Café het Molenpad 112 Edel 169 404 110 Wolf Atelier 143 Café Koosje 100 Eijlders 130 Sir Hummus 178 World of Food 193 Café Langereis 129 Espressofabriek 147-8 SLA 180 Worst Wijncafe 142-3 Cafe Mankind 132 Soup en Zo (Nieuwmarkt) Café Noorderlicht 204 F 95 Y Café Ome Ko (Muiden) 192 Frederix 131 Soup en Zo (Southern Yam Yam 142 Canal Ring) 124 Café P 96 145 Spaghetteria 181 Café Papeneiland 144, 8 G Spang Makandra 180 Café Pieper 144-5 DRINKING & Garage Noord 204 6 Café Ruis 186 Stach (De Pijp) 180 NIGHTLIFE Getto 81 Café Sarphaat 187 Stach (Southern Canal 4850 196 Glouglou 187 Ring) 124-5 Café Schiller 131-2 Golden Brown Bar 170 Sterk Staaltje 95 Café Schinkelhaven 170 A Gollem’s Proeflokaal 171 Stout 111-12 Cafe Soundgarden 144 A Bar 129 Greenhouse (Red Light Stroom 180 Café ’t Monumentje 147 Abraxas 79 District) 80 Stubbe’s Haring 110 Café ’t Sluisje 204 Greenhouse (Western Sugo 178-9 Café Tabac 112 Canal Ring) 114 Surya 184-5 B Caffé Italiano Al Ponte 204 Greenwoods 130 Back to Black 129 Canvas 195 Bakhuys Amsterdam 129 T Chicago Social Club 132 H Bar Basquiat 196 Church 133 Taart van m’n Tante 180 Hannekes Boom 101 Bar Bukowski 196 Club Up 130 Taco Cartel 179 Het Groot Melkhuis 171 Bar Dó 129 Coffee Bru 196 Thrill Grill 184 Hoppe 77 Bar Lempicka 129 Coffee Virus A-Lab 204 TisFris 95-6 HPS 101 Barça 187 Coffeeshop Free 131 Toko Joyce 96 Hummingbird 79 Toko Kok Kita 163 Betty Boop 130 Coffeeshop Rusland 79 Tokoman 95 Bierfabriek 80 Cold Pressed Juicery 171 I Tomaz 76 Bluebird 99 Craft & Draft 169 In ʼt Aepjen 79 Toscanini 142 Boca’s 186 Cut Throat 77 ITA Brasserie 132 Trattoria di Donna Sofia 141 Bocca Coffee 130 Boerejongens 130 D Borgman & Borgman J V (Leiden) 213 Dampkring 79 Jacob’s Juice 186 Van Dobben 124 Brasserie NeL 131 De Balie 130 Jimmy Woo 132 Van Stapele 75 Brouwerij De Prael 79 De Biertuin 196 Jones Brothers Coffee 186 Van ’t Spit 166 Brouwerij De Prael De Blauwe Parade 77-9 Jopenkerk (Haarlem) 209 Van Vlaanderen 127 Houthavens 147 De Doffer 114 Vegan Junk Food Bar Brouwerij ’t IJ 99-100, 82 De Drie Fleschjes 80 (Southern Amsterdam) Brouwerij Troost 186 De Druif 101 K 164 Brouwerij Troost De Groene Olifant 101 Kanis & Meiland 101 Vegan Junk Food Bar Westergas 147 De Kroon 131 Kapitein Zeppo’s 81 (Southern Canal Ring) Bulldog Palace 131 De Marktkantine 52 125 Katsu 187 Butcher’s Tears 169 De Nieuwe KHL 101 286 Koffie Academie 169 Internationaal Theater Blom & Blom 205 Koffiehuis de Hoek 112 T Amsterdam 133 Blond 188 ’t Arendsnest 112 Jazz Café Alto 134 Boerenmarkt 103 ’t Mandje 80 Johan Cruijff ArenA 197 Bonbon Boutique 84-5 L ’t Smalle 144, 50 Koninklijk Theater Carré Brick Lane 188 La Tertulia 147 Taboo Bar 133 133 Buise 174 Labyrinth 169 INDEX INDEX Tailor Bar 79 Kriterion 102 Lellebel 133 Tales & Spirits 77 Maloe Melo 149 C Lion Noir 130 Tunes Bar 171 Melkweg 134 Lokaal ’t Loosje 99 Cats & Things 150 ENTERTAINMENT Tweede Kamer 79 Mezrab – House of Stories Cellarrich 150 Lot Sixty One 169 Twenty Third Bar 186 102 Movies 148-9 Concerto 134 Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Concrete Matter 116 M V 101-2 Condomerie het Gulden Ma’dam 200 Vesper Bar 144 Muziektheater 34, 101 Vlies 86, 183 Molly Malone’s 80 Vondelpark3 169 Noorderkerkconcerten 139 Coster Diamonds 174 Monks Coffee Roasters 147 OCCII 170 Cottoncake 187-8 Montmartre 133 Openluchttheater 34, W Mulligans 34, 132 172, 173 Walhalla Taproom 204 D Orgelpark 172 Walter Woodbury Bar 195-6 Darling 116-17 OT301 170 O Warehouse Elementen- De Bierkoning 86 Pacific 148 Oedipus Brewery & Tap straat 52 De Bijenkorf 85 Paradiso 133 Room 204-5 Waterkant 145 De Kaaskamer 115 Pathé Tuschinskitheater Oosterling 131 Welling 170 De Pure Markt 197 132-3 Otherside 129 Westergasterras 147 De Winkel van Nijntje 174 (Haarlem) 209 Westerunie 148 Denham the Jeanmaker Rialto Cinema 187 P Whiskey Café L&B 132 Men’s Store 115 Studio K 196 Denham the Jeanmaker Pata Negra 131 Wildschut 171 Theater Amsterdam 148 Women’s Store 115 Pâtisserie Pompadour 114 Winston Kingdom 80 Tobacco Theater 81 Denim City Store 173 Wynand Fockink 80, 31 Pllek 204, 48 Tolhuistuin 205 Distortion Records 149 Pluk 112 197 Prik 79 Proeflokaal A van Wees 114 3ENTERTAINMENT E Eddy Varekamp 116 Proeflokaal de Ooievaar 80 AFAS Live 197 7 SHOPPING Exota 117 Proeflokaal ’t Blauwe Amsterdams Marionetten 360 Volt 115 Theehuis 170-1 Theater 102 Amsterdamse Bos Theatre A F 172 Frozen Fountain 115 R 34, 102 Albert Cuypmarkt 178, 17 Radion 52 Bitterzoet 81 All the Luck in the World Rayleigh & Ramsay 186 197 Boom Chicago 148 G Rosalia’s Menagerie 99 American Book Center 86 Bourbon Street Jazz & Galleria d’Arte Rum Baba Cafe 196 Blues Club 133-4 Amsterdam Watch Rinascimento 150 Company 117 Rum Barrel 196 Café Stiels (Haarlem) 209 Gamekeeper 117 Andries de Jong BV 85 Casa Rosso 81 Gastronomie Nostalgie 85 Anecdote 116 Cave 134 Gathershop 173 S Antiekcentrum Comedy Café 148 Goochem Speelgoed 172 Saarein 147 Amsterdam 150 34, 171-2 Shelter 200 Antiques Market 102 De Brakke Grond 81 Siberië 114 Arnold Cornelis 150 H De Heeren van Aemstel 134 Hart’s Wijnhandel 135 SkyLounge 100 Art Market 85-6 De Nieuwe Anita 148 Hempstory 86 Sticky Fingers 171, 3 Arti Choc 172 De Ruimte 205 Henxs 103 Suzy Wong 131 Atelier Anna + Nina 135 De Uitkijk 134 Hester van Eeghen 117 Dranklokkal de WW Het Faire Oosten 197 (Leiden) 213 B Het Oud-Hollandsch FC Hyena 205 Back Beat Records 150 Snoepwinkeltje 148 Sights 000 Felix Meritis 114 Bever 174 Hoogkamp Antiquariaat 134 Map Pages 000 Filmhallen 165 Bever Women’s Store 173 Hôtel Droog 102 Photo Pages 000 Frascati 81 Bier Baum 188 Hutspot 187 287 Pied à Terre 172 Hotel Rembrandt 221 I Pols Potten 103 X Hotel Résidence Le Coin IJ Hallen 205 Posthumus 84 X Bank 84 220 International Theatre & Postzegelmarkt 85 Hotel The Exchange 220 Film Books 133 Property Of 116 Z Hotel Twenty Seven 221 Puccini Bomboni 103 Zipper 117 Hotel V Frederiksplein 223 J Hotel V Nesplein 220 INDEX J&B Craft Drinks 172 Houseboat Ms Luctor 224 R Jacob Hooy & Co 103 Ink Hotel Amsterdam 220 Raak 188 4 SLEEPING Jaski 135 Linden Hotel 224 SLEEPING Record Mania 188 Ambassade Hotel 222 Joe’s Vliegerwinkel 103 Little Amstel 227 Amsterdam American ReCycle 165 Lloyd Hotel 221 Johnny at the Spot 172-3 Hotel 125 Red Light Records 86 Misc EatDrinkSleep 221 Andaz Amsterdam 222 Reflex Modern Art Gallery Morgan & Mees 224-5 K 135 A-Train Hotel 220 Mr Jordaan 224 Knuffels 103 Retro & Chic 103 BackStage Hotel 224 Neighbour’s Magnolia 226 Kokopelli 86 Robins Hood 150 Bank Hotel 222 Nine(t)teen 227 Kramer Kunst & Antiek 134 Rush Hour Records 85 Banks Mansion 223-4 Owl Hotel 226 Bicycle Hotel Amsterdam 227 Pillows Anna van den Vondel 226 L S Camping Vliegenbos 228 Laundry Industry 85 Room Mate Aitana 225 Schwung Amsterdam 173 Casa Julia (Delft) 216 Laura Dols 117 Seven Bridges 223 Shirt Shop 135 Christian Youth Hostel ‘The L’Étoile de Saint Honoré Skateboards Amsterdam Shelter City’ 221 Seven One Seven 223 116 135 Christian Youth Hostel ‘The Sir Adam 228 Lieve Hemel 135 Stenelux 188 Shelter Jordan’ 224 Sir Albert Hotel 227 market 149 CityHub Amsterdam 225 St Christopher’s at the Linnaeus Bookstore 197 ClinkNOORD 228 Winston 220 T Locals 84 Cocomama 222-3 Stayokay Amsterdam ’t Kaasboertje 188, 43 Oost 228 Look Out 135 Collector 225 ’t Zonnetje 150 Stayokay Amsterdam Love Stories 115 Conscious Hotel Museum Vondelpark 225 Ten Katemarkt 165 Square 226 SWEETS Hotel Gerben Tenue de Nîmes 116 Conscious Hotel the Tire M Wagenaarbrug 228 Things I Like Things I Love Station 226 Magna Plaza 85 SWEETS Hotel Overtoom- (East Amsterdam) 197 Conscious Hotel MaisonNL 135 sesluis 226 Things I Like Things I Love Vondelpark 226 Maker Store 165 ’t Hotel 222 (South Amsterdam) 172 Conscious Hotel Marie-Stella-Maris 115 Tiller Galerie 188 Westerpark 224 Toren 222 Mark Raven Grafiek 84 Tinkerbell 135 Conservatorium Hotel 227 Train Lodge 225 Marlies Dekkers 117 De Dageraad 221 Volkshotel 228 Mary Go Wild 86 W Amsterdam 221 U Dylan 222 Mechanisch Speelgoed 150 Faralda Crane Hotel 228 Urban Cacao 149-50 Memento 149 Flying Pig Downtown Mendo 117 Hostel 220 2 SPORTS & Mobilia 135 V Flynt B&B 226 ACTIVITIES Baking Lab 194 Moooi Gallery 149 Van Avezaath Beune 173 Generator Amsterdam 228 Boaty 186 Van Beek 188 Hilton Amsterdam 227 Friday Night Skate 174 Van Dijk & Ko 205 Hotel Adolesce 223 N Fun Forest 174 Vanilia 115-16 Hotel De Hallen 227 Neef Louis Design 205 GlowGolf 103 Vlieger 134 Hotel de Windketel 224 115 Kanoverhuur Amsterdamse Hotel Estheréa 221 Nikkie 173-4 VLVT 174 Bos 174 Hotel Fita 225 Noordermarkt 149, 3 Rederij Rembrandt Hotel Freeland 223 (Leiden) 213 W Hotel IX 222 Waterlooplein Flea Market Reypenaer 116 O Hotel Kap 223 102, 11 TunFun 27, 103 Oudemanhuispoort Book Hotel La Boheme 223 Market 85 Waxwell Records 116 Zuiderbad 174 Hotel Luxer 220 We Are Vintage 197 Hotel Not Hotel 225 Webers 102 P Hotel Notting Hill 223 Westermarkt 149 Papabubble 150 Hotel Okura Amsterdam WonderWood 86 PGC Hajenius 85 227-8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 288

Amsterdam Maps

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book MAP INDEX 1 Medieval Centre & Red Light District North (p290) 1 1 WESTELIJKE 2 Medieval Centre & Red Light 1 EILANDEN 1 1 (WESTERN NOORD District South (p294) 1 ISLANDS) Nieuwmarkt (p296) Volkstuinenpar1k 1 3 Sloterdijkermeer Westerpark 000 4 Plantage & the Eastern 000 000 Ð"9 Islands (p298) WESTERPARK 000 Het IJ 5 Western Canal Ring North Ð"7 (p300) BOS EN 000 Ð"1 000 Ð"500000 000 6 Western Canal Ring South LOMMER 000 00000 000 000 WESTERN 00000 Ð"14 000 (p302) 000 JORDAAN CANAL 00000 000 RING Dijk IJ Haven CENTRUM Ð"3 sgra 7 The West (p303) Erasmuspark Ð"10 cht 00000 NIEUWMARKT Rietlandpark 8 Southern Canal Ring (p304) 00000 000 00000 000 9 Jordaan North (p308) Ð"6 RED N (EASTERN ISLANDS) LIGHT E ie 10 Jordaan South (p310) 0000 nt uw DISTR0IC0T00 00rep00 e V 0000 000ot0d aa 11 Vondelpark & the South OUD 0000 0000ok rt WEST Ð"2 0000 0000 (p312) 0000 Pl Artis 0000 Mu an id tag Royal INDISCHE n t erg e 12 De Pijp (p316) va al Keize ach ra Zoo cob na 000 rsg r ch BUURT Ja pka 000 000 t t 13 Oosterpark & East of the ne 000 000 rach Len 000 000 ngelg Amstel (p318) 000 000 Si Ð"4 SOUTHERN Oosterpark 14 Amsterdam Noord (p319) CANAL RING Flevopark

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Catherine Le Nevez De Pijp; Jordaan & the West; Medieval Centre & Red Light District; West­ ern Canal Ring; Day Trips Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she road- tripped across Europe from her Parisian aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to some 60 countries and com- pleting her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writ- ing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past decade-and-a-half she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering , , Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations. Catherine also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival sections.

Kate Morgan Amsterdam Noord; Nieuwmarkt, Plantage & the Eastern Islands; Ooster­ park & East of the Amstel; Vondelpark & the South Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Russia, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Barbara Woolsey Southern Canal Ring Barbara was born and raised on the Canadian prairies to a Filipino mother and Irish-Scottish father – and that third culture kid upbring- ing has fuelled a life’s passion for cross-cultural storytelling. Barbara’s career started in Bangkok working for Thailand’s largest English-language newspaper, then travelling around Asia as a TV host for a Bangkok-based channel. Since then, she’s voyaged across over 40 countries and five continents by plane, train and motorbike. In addition to writing for Lonely Planet, Barbara writes for newspapers, magazines and websites with readerships around the world. She spends most of her time in her adopted home of Berlin, Germany.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 12th edition – May 2020 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78701 519 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Malaysia All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’