Ireland's Extremities Trip Was Simple Enough in Concept
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Ireland’s Extremities 23 – 30 May 2009 Davy Creighton, Rick McKee, Enda Reynolds, & Mark Wright Notes by Rick McKee, June 2009 The Challenge: • 8 days, 800 miles • North, South, East, West, Centre of Ireland • Highest mountain in each of the four provinces • Mountain-bikes unsupported (carry all gear) for the trip • Bikes and all gear go with us, up the mountains too 1 Introduction Our challenge for the Ireland's Extremities trip was simple enough in concept: • Visit North, South, East, West and Centre of Ireland • Climb the highest mountain in each of the four provinces • Use mountain-bikes and be unsupported (carry all gear) for the trip • The bikes and all the gear were to go with us, up the mountains too At 800-odd miles, we carved it up into a neat 8 days and booked our B&B's, which looked doable enough as long as we could make good progress on the mountains with everything on our backs. And so it turned out. The mountains were hard going in places, and we had some very long days (up to 17/18 hours!), but a lot of the time was eating and chatting and goofing about, all of which we are well-practiced at! The challenge team started out as Davy, Rick, Enda and Mark, but unfortunately Mark had to leave us on the Thursday due to a prior engagement, so we completed the trip as three. Mark does have the mental and physical scars to prove he was there for most of it anyway! We had the pleasure of the company of a few friends along the way as well, which was a great boost to the trip. We also took the opportunity to raise some money for the Northern Ireland Children’s Hospice, and were amazed at the generosity shown by friends, family, work colleagues, some folks we had never met, and those we met on the road during our trip. This report records our journey for future generations. 2 The Route The following was our broad planned route, with extremities and night stops marked. 3 Itinerary The following was the planned itinerary, which ended up changing slightly on the trip due to circumstances: 22 May - Travel to Crookhaven near Brow Head, and visit Mizen Head, getting a lift all the way 23 May – Bike to Brow Head (South point), bike circa 90 miles to Carrantuohill (highest point in Munster, and Ireland), climb it with bikes, then bike 10 miles to Killorglin B&B 24 May - Bike circa 120 miles to Tarbert B&B (on the Shannon), via Garraun Point on the Dingle Peninsula (West point) 25 May - Quick ferry over the Shannon, bike 40 miles to Doolin via Cliffs of Moher, ferry to Arran Islands, have lunch, circle island on bikes, ferry to Rossaveel, bike 40 miles to Killary Harbour B&B 26 May - Speedboat across Killary Harbour, climb steep side of Mweelrea (highest point in Connaught) with bikes, then bike circa 80 miles to Mountbellew. 27 May - Bike circa 120 miles to Donard B&B, Co. Wicklow, via the geographical centre point of Ireland at Ballymore, just outside Athlone, the Catstone. 28 May - Climb Lugnaquilla (highest point in Leinster) with bikes, bike circa 100 miles, as far north as we could manage basically. 29 May - Bike circa 100 miles to Belfast or Antrim, via speedboat across Carlingford Lough, climbing Slieve Donard (highest point in Ulster), ferry to Portaferry, and Burr Point on the Ards Peninsula (East point) 30 May - Bike circa 90 miles to Malin Head (North point), getting the ferry at Magilligan to Greencastle, and after we get there, get a lift back home to Antrim. 4 22 May - Day of Travel Antrim to Crookhaven Extremities: None Other points of interest: Mizen Head (pretend SW-most point in Ireland) Bug and Sparky were our hosts for the ride from Antrim to Crookhaven, location of our first B&B, in County Cork. We managed to get all four bikes on the roof of the Ford Galaxy, and off the six of us set at 12:30pm, 2.5 hours later than planned, as Davy had to work and I had to spend the morning knocking 3 months of cobwebs off his bike. Trying to bring Davy’s bike into the 21 st Century the morning we left I had already fitted pannier racks to the backs of Davy’s and my bike to take the weight off the shoulders, so the first thing we had to do was get the same for Mark and Enda, which we sorted in Halfords in Lisburn. 5 The trusty Galaxy – Crookhaven-bound There was much discussion around what we would do if the bikes were to fall off the roof of the car, and we got the shock of our lives to discover, about 10 miles from our destination, that the whole roof rack was about to come off! It was around 8pm when we arrived on the south coast, and we took our chance to go visit Ireland’s assumed most southerly point, Mizen Head (the actual most southerly point, and our first extremity, is Brow Head, on the next peninsula to the east from Mizen). The mist and light rain prevented us from seeing too much, so we took a couple of snaps and headed for the B&B in Crookhaven. Mark was plagued by shin-splints all week, injuring himself on the 200 yard stroll from the car to the bridge at Mizen Signal Station, down “The 99 Steps”. 6 Mark, second from left, grimaces for the camera, suffering his shin-splints in silence Bug and Sparky were struggling to understand why we would cycle, when there was a car at the top of the hill waiting for us 7 As we were spending the week unsupported (carrying all we needed for the week with us), we made our final kit checks before finally waving Bug and Sparky off in the car with what we didn’t need for the week. It was only after their departure that we realised that the spare tubes I had bought for Davy for the trip were for 14 inch wheels (a 5 year old’s bike) instead of 26 inch! Davy checks his new 14 inch spare tubes After the laughter, a short wander down to Crookhaven Harbour for chowder, steak and a couple of pints finished us up nicely for the evening, and we hit the sack early to prepare for a 7:00am breakfast and the start of our trip the next morning. 8 23 May - Day 1 Crookhaven to Killorglin Extremities: Brow Head (South), Carrauntoohill, highest peak in Munster and Ireland (1041m) Other points of interest: N/a Distance on bikes: 89 miles We awoke at 6:30am to the most depressing scene imaginable – strong wind and driving rain outside. We were none too keen to finally get up from the breakfast table and venture outside, as the rain was battering the windows, but venture out we did, to our first challenge; how to get the packs to fit nicely on the racks we had fitted the night before. Putting off the inevitable 800 miles to come 9 All bungeed up and ready for the road After 15 minutes goofing about with bungee cords, the rain virtually stopped. We were on our way to Brow Head, our first extremity, which was about 3km away from our B&B, heading directly into the strong wind, and up a steep tarmac climb. Well warmed up by the time we reached Brow, we turned and sailed to Bantry with the wind on our backs, albeit the road was populated by insane drivers who gave us a fair number of frights. 10 Brow Head – Mark has clearly just finished a perfect gymnastics routine The first and last team tension appeared in Bantry, when a well-timed flick in the goolies from Mark to Rick left the latter in pretty bad form for about 15 minutes, until the pain subsided. Enda holds the bikes whilst the business is sorted 11 Bantry – Mark reflects on flicking Rick in the goolies! The first technical problem of the trip came when Mark dropped his water- bottle outside Bantry and the lid came off. No big deal for the normal man, but the perfectionist in Mark was less than impressed with the shoddy technical design of the bottle, and it was his turn to be in bad form for a while. From Bantry, we had a climb to Glengariff through fantastic scenery, and we stopped to take a few snaps just as a crazy American and his wife pulled up to do the same. As the American chap went to get his wife out of the car, Davy asked him whether she was going to be dressed for the photo or not. A few more “Carry-On” gags later, and we were back into the climb, through the tunnel at the top, and into the long, fast descent through more tunnels, eventually taking us to Kenmare for lunch of, what else but, trusty chicken and chips. 12 Can you hear a train, Davy? 13 Stunning scenery as we climbed to the pass. The view was nice too If you see a sheep, dressed as a granny, poking through the sun-roof of a 1930’s car, you just HAVE to stop for a snap. 14 Starter? Check. Main course? Check. Enda, are you not having anything? Still smacking our lips, satisfied with our al fresco lunch in the glorious sunshine, we met a local chap formerly from Holywood, County Down, and we enjoyed a bit of banter before preparing to set off again to climb Carrauntoohill, Ireland’s highest mountain.