Fishing Heritage of Portavogie Guide (PDF)

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G R r a d n s h a Ho R lyw d Contents A21 Pushing the boat out o o d R d d R y e d b R b n A20 A r u b o A22 d W

5 The local catch Fishing has been a major industry in County K n i r l A20 b u r b d i g g R h n e i s t n n 6 Improved fishing gear R a Down for many years. Three ports - Kilkeel, n t Steward R d d u M C A55 M d a R C rd r y b e Rd Dun 7 Changing fisheries om ove Portavogie and Ardglass - remain at the C r Rd m centre of the fishing industry today. Their 8 Navigating change Stu p Rd

B a ll A2 ydrai Chapel n R communities revolve around the sea. Local 9 Weather & hidden danger d Island

A23 d R T rry u 10 People’s stories: past & present a l Lisburn l people and their traditions have strong ties Carrydu u y

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A3 R Rd 13 Fishing moves forward d e to the water. ag A7 Ardm on M1 il s d M1 M1 A22 lan Mahee Par R R ia d Island r d 78 to R B1 Strangford ic 14 Day in the life of a trawler crew V h g

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A2 A20 o Lough r o While family bonds have endured across b s B6 a A3 A e Lurgan 16 Day out at the harbour y 4 l 9 Conley l Hillsborough A24 a Island Blac B the generations, the fishing industry has ksta Bog Rd Rd 18 Coasting along Islandmore Q

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r 4 A3 t Portavogie e A1 R r changed with great purpose over time, A21 i d R B6B n R d 19 Eating sustainable fish g h Craigavon d g u la f e e g r ly

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working towards a sustainable future that a

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respects9 the local marine environment. 6 Island

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22 FishingB2 fables

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350 licensed vessels fishing forA seafood, A c 50 S 2 Salt Strangford 7 26 The Ports: An introduction tone Rd Island Gilford A rs Dromara re Gores Rd 2 B G ra and the industry employs over 1,000 full- 2 y B Castle Island a 51 6 r M A Island H 28 Portavogie The Spa a Armagh B l 3 2 A25 l 5 R Tandragee B d d and part-time fishermen. Around £20 d s R R k Banbridge ric y at 32 Ardglass A e Rd t P b e 2 Mearn S 28 10 B7B 4 b A B A 51

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A annually into Northern Ireland. Some d s c p r o R A Downpatrick B h 2 u is h d 8 r C a l l B i seafood caught by the local fleet is landed o B K Loughbrickland n e 1 L B110 ca is s m Katesbridge t o 9 5 re d le R 2 7 R B outsideA of Northern Ireland, into the UK, 1 d 1 A5 B 7 Guns Markethill 0 6 d A2 R Island A w 2 e 8 r Republic of Ireland, and as far away as C

7 R B A1 A25 a A2 en B3 e C Gl R d il o Norway and Denmark, bringing the total 3 Ard m m Dundrum o n Rd s g B d i R R l y 2 d d O ar ll value of landings from Northern Irish fishing 5 rch a B Castlewellan Ardglass 800 d Tyrella t R B1B in vessels to around £60 million. A o

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Killowen A2 Crossmaglen A 37 1 N Carlingford Lough Kilkeel M1 Carlingford Map based upon Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland’s data with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, © Crown Copyright Dundalk and database rights NIMA ES&LA205.2 Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 5

Strictly speaking it’s not a Shellfish like scallops, Buyers work all three prawn at all, but a type of mussels, crab and lobster Northern Ireland ports, and lobster. However, for the also feature in the local list. both Kilkeel and Portavogie purposes of this booklet, Aquaculture is a growing host regular auctions. langoustines are simply industry in the area, both in However, fishermen sell referred to as prawns. the Irish Sea and Strangford many locally caught prawns Lough. The tradition of under contract, rather than Incredibly, many years ago, pot-fishing endures too. auctioning them. fishermen threw prawns back Fishermen use potting creels into the sea, viewing them as Fishing also supports to catch crab, lobster and a useless by-product of the other industries, including prawn. Winkle picking is main fish catch. processing. Pelagic fish go to common in Ardglass, Kilkeel the local factory to be frozen, Gourmets now consider local and Tyrella, with workers then buyers export many prawns an upmarket delicacy. harvesting shellfish by hand. of them to the Baltic States, As a result, County Down Some of the local catch is China and the Far East. shellfish is in demand around seasonal. The mackerel the world. Consumers are The volume of the catch season is about three weeks also becoming increasingly depends on vessel size as long and the herring season aware of the health benefits well as commercial quotas. is also relatively short. of eating seafood. It might Of course, like any other surprise natives that, in Changes in market demands industry, fishing operates a French supermarket or and available technology, within the usual framework Spanish restaurant, Northern such as the move from salting of demand and supply. The Irish seafood takes pride of to freezing, also caused huge technological advances that place on the counter or menu. changes to the make-up of created a greater supply of the local catch. fish and prawns also meant Large trawlers do still that often prices dropped. The local catch catch pelagic fish in these The main prawn season waters. Pelagic fish are free- runs from the end of June to Changing diesel prices also swimming from the top to the September, although the have a huge effect on fishing Prawns make up the largest proportion of bottom of the water column, species is caught all year costs. An average prawn the local catch and have done for some time. but are mainly found mid- round. This is a busy time for trawler uses 2,000 litres of Specifically, local fishermen catchNephrops water. They include mackerel prawn trawlers, involving diesel in a typical week, so norvegicus, also known as the Dublin Bay and herring. weeks of intensive labour. it’s easy to see how rising fuel Prawn, langoustine, Norway lobster or scampi. prices affect the bottom line. Demersal fish are also still Dublin Bay Prawn is made up important species for local of two products - the whole The ritual of the diesel lorries fisheries, although the prawn fish and the tail. Local prawn pulling into harbour once makes up the biggest share tails are mainly sold to the a week to refuel the boats of the catch. Demersal fish UK scampi market, while signifies a major variable cost are bottom-dwelling, like whole prawns are exported for the fishing industry. cod, haddock, monkfish, to France, Italy, Spain and the A catch of edible crabs hake, plaice, brill and whiting. Middle East. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 7

Fishing gear Changing improvements fisheries

Boats and nets are thought Twin and quad rigs can tow The net’s rope that is laid The original fishing boats Early boats also set long This method was highly of as the hardware of the two or four nets at one time. on the seabed closes slowly, heading to sea from County lines. These were branches selective and sustainable, fishing industry. Both have Boats may pair up when effectively herding the fish Down were herring drifters. of fishing line with baited but was time-consuming changed considerably. two or three vessels trawl into the net. Their nets drifted with hooks for catching cod, ling, and labour intensive for together, towing one net the tide at night and were haddock, plaice and whiting. the crews. With the move away from between them. A seine net is lighter than a pulled in by hand. sail, boats evolved into coal- trawl net, and the boats tow it powered steam drifters, and Generally, net design has for a shorter time. As a result, These boats followed the later to diesel-powered boats changed in an effort to be this type of fishing is more shoals of fish. In fact, an that were bigger again and more selective about the fuel efficient. entire fishing industry could travel further. The old type or size of fish to catch. followed the herring shoals. sailing boats were restricted Many dual purpose nets A bigger trawler can bring Many nomadic boats travelled round the to working in very calm used locally can catch prawns in 500 tonnes of fish on one coastal ports as the fish weather. Today’s diesel boats and fish. They are towed trip. These are now vacuum themselves moved. can fish all year, and in most along the seabed. As a pumped out of the boat weathers. conservation measure, these in minutes. nets now have sections of Different species of fish square mesh in the top panel require different nets to catch to let some fish escape. This them. Local fishermen use helps fishermen become demersal trawl nets for their more selective about the main catch of prawns and species caught. bottom-dwelling fish. This Seine nets were originally is a long, low net that moves Scandinavian. They are ring across the seabed. Herrings nets that are shot around the Main Image: Hands of an expert – fish, catching mainly whiting, retired skipper Alastair McBride cod and haddock. mending nets at Kilkeel harbour Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 9

Navigating Weather change watching

Years ago, skippers Although crews now make Many fishermen claim that Anecdotally, fishermen often navigated by lining the most of up-to-date GPS weather variations, even often report that the up their boats with technology to navigate, in the course of their own incidence of extreme wind familiar landmarks. many still refer to the familiar working lives, have changed has risen over the years, Decca sectors. the industry. making their working trips The move to a hyperbolic increasingly unpredictable, navigation system, known and often more treacherous. as Decca, divided the local fishing waters into sectors, which are still familiar to fishermen today. Hidden danger

Industry experts agree According to Seafish, the The Karen’s nets became that fishing is the most authority on seafood, 25% of entangled with the dangerous peacetime UK fishermen claim they have submerged hazard. The occupation. had an incident at sea which incident destroyed much of put their lives at risk. the fishing gear on the boat, as the crew decided to release Extreme weather is a the equipment to avoid being frequent worry, but dragged under. occasionally boats face other unpredictable dangers. In Fortunately no-one was spring 2015, while fishing injured, and the crew close to the Isle of Man, believe their speedy response Paul Murphy around 18 miles from the saved them from potential onboard 'Karen' port of Ardglass, a prawn disaster, as did a lucky break trawler was dragged of an entangled steel cable backwards by a submarine. on the boat. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 11

Hard-working migrant workers

County Down’s fishing Many families’ involvement in Frank Zych (pictured above), industry has depended for the fishing industry goes back born in 1927, came to Ardglass years on the people that for generations. However, via England. Legend persists travel to the area to work. migrant workers have always that ‘Frank the Pole’, as he was been a feature of local fishing nicknamed in Ardglass, arrived Currently, people from - from the gutter girls from in England in a fishing boat! Eastern Europe, the the west of Ireland to Eastern Frank lived for more than 50 Philippines and beyond make European migrants. years in Ardglass, at the heart up a significant proportion of the fishing community, of those helping fishing to After the Second World War, working with his sons Tony flourish here. Migrants work in one Polish man migrated to and David, and later with all aspects of the industry, as Ardglass, leaving behind the grandson Conrad. crew on the trawlers and in post-War communist regime fish processing at the ports. in his native land. Thanks to the Down Recorder which published Frank Zych’s obituary. The people’s stories Herring lassies

Every industry is built on its workers, and the Women played a huge part Female workers followed The gutter girls worked in the families that support them. In tightly-knit in the fishing industry, in the shoals of herring, taking harbours’ curing yards, gutting communities like Portavogie, Kilkeel and particular working as “herring seasonal work in various and packing the herring into Ardglass, family ties are crucial. lassies” or “gutter girls”. fishing ports. Although some barrels. It was hard work, done of the gutter girls were local, out of doors, with long hours Seafish produced a series many came from the west when the catch was good. of short films that celebrate Northern Ireland’s seafood of Ireland, in particular from industry and communities. Donegal. The men from Many of the herring lassies met You can view them on this area were often already their future husbands through Seafish’s YouTube channel. working in nomadic fishing this work. Plenty married boats that moved in fleets into local families in County around the Irish coast, so it was Down, and the fishing ports Retired skippers Alastair McBride and Elwyn Teggarty enjoy each other's company a natural step for the women to are still home to their direct while mending nets at Kilkeel harbour work this way too. descendants. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel Fishing in harmony 13 Many unifying traditions have grown within the fishing communities. One of these is the Fishermen’s Choir from Portavogie. The choir was set up in the 1950s by Eileen Palmer, the wife of a local boat builder, who was also a church organist. Members of the Fishermen’s Choir, which is still going strong with around 25 singers, are drawn from the local fishing community and other men from the area. The choir performs regularly at churches, public events and Fishing for fundraises for various charities. generations From boat to market

As well as more recent One such family is the Another Kilkeel family, the Something Fishy is a family- Having traded at St Both Portavogie men believe arrivals, a great tradition Cassidys of Kilkeel, whose McBrides, worked once as run Portavogie business George’s Market in Belfast that the key to successful involving generations of involvement in the fishing farmers, but turned from the that brings fresh seafood to for more than three decades, seafood retailing lies in fishing families exists in all industry stretches back for at land to the sea in a downturn local consumers. as well as at many other product freshness. As of the County Down ports. least five generations. because of an early interest in local markets, Alan has seen Something Fishy sources skiff fishing. Trader Edward Murray buys big changes in consumer seafood mainly from local In Ardglass, at least five In May 1918 during the First his product mainly in County demand over the years. suppliers, the journey from generations of the Smyth World War, a German u-boat William John McBride Senior Down, and his market stall fishing boat to market is as family have been involved in torpedoed six boats from was one of the ‘Half Eleven is packed with boxes of While white fish remains a brief as possible, so that the fishing industry, including the Kilkeel fishing fleet. The Men’, who wouldn’t fish on a delicacies like prawns, crab popular choice, demand high quality products reach jobs such as auctioneers, submarine torpedoed the Sunday, and instead made and scallops sourced in has grown for shellfish like consumers quickly. buyers, fuel suppliers, line of boats that had been preparations for leaving the Portavogie harbour, as well lobster, prawns and oysters. fishermen and tied together, mercifully harbour just before midnight. as Strangford Lough mussels. Harbour Master. Some of having allowed the crews to Sons and grandsons have Edward Murray’s family has these jobs have been carried escape to shore. all followed into the fishing long involvement in the local down from father to son. business, where they industry - his father owned a Charles Cassidy was skipper continue to work today. fishing boat - while father-in- The Mourne Maritime Visitor of the Cyprus, one of the law Alan Coffey is the fourth Centre, opposite Kilkeel six boats to be lost that Gilbert McBride, a retired Fishing moves forward generation of his family to harbour, has a permanent day. Charles’ descendants fisherman now based work in fishing. Like any industry, commercial fishing methods have exhibition called ‘Families went on to fish in Kilkeel. in Ardglass, recalls each evolved over time, making the most of the latest at Sea’, which has more His great-great-grandson weekend’s hard work, as he technology to streamline operations. Over the years, information about local has continued the tradition, and his crew followed the this has included advances in boats, nets, onboard families like these. The through his role in the habit of making the boats machinery and navigation equipment. exhibition inside shows Merchant Navy. ready for the week’s what life was like for the fishing ahead. Many other challenges drive change in the fishing fishermen at sea and the His granddaughter helped industry, including conservation measures and household at home. You can form a fish sales company, quotas that regulate the catch volume. For many find out more about it online and her sons also became years the local fishing industry has been looking at mournemaritime.com/ involved in fish sales and towards building a sustainable future that respects families-at-sea/families pelagic trawling. the marine environment. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 15

Aaron Cunningham and Martin Johnston land their Straight from Nets in Ardglass Skipper Trevor Thompson Ardglass Raising the catch Sorting the produce lobster pots at Ardglass Prawns the trawler

Landing the catch Ready for the Skipper of the Portavogie prawns Returning to harbour Unloading the catch Geoff Richard fish market Karima, Kilkeel Palmer Fitzpatrick mending mending fishing nets lobster pots in Ardglass

Boat-spotting If you’re interested in following the course of 'A Day in the Life' of a trawler crew vessels in local fishing grounds, check out www.shipAIS.com Powered by GPS, this website As you tuck into local Ideal conditions for a fishing The skipper often takes the Skippers are in overall charge Mobile phones help lets you spot boats fishing prawns, spare a thought for trip? A calm day and a neap first tow, which allows the of the boat at sea, and will skippers share useful the local waters and follow the crew out in all weathers, tide. Fishing is usually more crew to sleep. Then everyone generally do the detailed information. Often they their progress. trawling the Irish Sea for productive on the neap, rather gets up to have breakfast and planning and navigating, as decide to change fishing this delicacy. than spring tide. lift the nets. well as managing the crew ground if the catch isn’t good, onboard. They move from or if a tip-offcomes that there’s Fishermen on the prawn Of course the crew can Ideally the crew is busy on deck bridge to deck, and tend to better fishing elsewhere. As a Most crews are made up of trawlers typically head to sea also face violent storms or all day, sorting the previous be experts on every area of result, sometimes the prawn “share fishermen”. Put simply, for a day or two at a time. Of mountainous waves, freezing tow until half an hour before their fishing grounds, with trawlers are concentrated into after boat expenses and the course it all depends on the weather and gales, and other the next one is brought in. The great knowledge of local one area where the fishing is owner’s share is taken care of, weather and tides, as well as extreme conditions. crew makes the most of all weather patterns. best that day. the takings from each trip are the crew’s availability. their time at sea, trawling the The prawns they seek live in divided between the crew. nets all night. This means long As the season for some Their trawlers take ice A day’s work on a prawn u-shaped burrows in areas shifts as the crew shares the seafood is short, it can be hard onboard to store the fish trawler bears little or no of muddy seabed, a habitat The ratio is usually two shares watches. Those onboard need for skippers to get crew for brief and prawns, as well as resemblance to the relaxation common in the Irish Sea. The for the skipper and one for to be physically fit and capable periods. Many factories now having modern refrigeration associated with hobby fishing! creatures themselves are each of the crew. Earnings can of strenuous team work. fly in migrant workers for the equipment for storage. The quite unpredictable, so catch be unpredictable, and the The crew’s commute to work herring and mackerel season, crew handles the fishing gear, volume can vary hugely. Often Conditions can be cramped, business is cashflow intensive, starts very early, as they set running from September to keeps the decks clear and the best catches come with with the crew doing practical in particular affected by off from port about 3.30am February. This is very different works together to bring in the the first dawn tow and the work in often challenging changing diesel costs. to journey to the fishing to years ago, when boats often catch. They sort the fish and dusk tow. situations. The sea itself is From labouring and grounds, a trip which can had the same crew all year often gut and store it. unforgiving, and the crew is butchering, to navigating and typically last between one Prawn trawlers tow their round. The volatile earnings always at the mercy of the They tail the smaller prawns engineering - it’s not your and three hours. They call nets for three to four hours in the industry mean that weather. Remaining calm and pack the larger ones typical day at the office! this “steaming off”. at a time. crew members may need under pressure is a skill that’s whole, and help unload the second jobs, which also highly prized! catch back at the harbour. restricts their availability. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 17

Day out at the harbour

For visitors who want to If you’re looking to buy lover’s paradise , with plenty soak up the atmosphere seafood locally you can buy it of stalls selling seafood from of a busy, working fishing in the ports, from mobile fish the local ports. port - here are some tips vans, East Coast Seafood, to help you make the most Ballyhornan, renowned Find up-to-date listings at: of your trip. fishmongers, McKeowns of discovernorthern Bangor, and other outlets. ireland.com/Seafood- Friday is a great day to Splendour-A1935 experience the buzz of all It’s also worth visiting St three County Down ports. George’s Market in Belfast. In summer, fishing boats Friday morning’s traditional generally return to harbour variety markets is a fish between 7-10pm, unloading their catch then.

Unloading the catch from a prawn Fresh fish from the boat trawler at Portavogie Fish Market at Ardglass harbour Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 19

Coasting along Eating sustainable fish

Along the coastline and Many choose to walk in the The tower houses, ancient Within the industry, The Northern Ireland Seafish’s new online RASS heading inland, you can pick up famous Mourne Mountains, monuments and natural commercial buyers talk Pelagic Sustainability tool (Risk assessment for stunning driving routes, as well following the Mourne Wall or beauty around Strangford about sustainability and Group sea herring fishery sourcing seafood) provides as walking and cycling trails. visiting the scenic Silent Valley, Lough, Northern Ireland’s tracing origins, much as recently became the first lots of information to allow as well as hiking Northern only Marine Nature Reserve, they do in agriculture. What Irish Sea fleet to be awarded buyers and consumers to A visit to County Down’s Ireland’s highest peak, create a satisfying and varied about consumers? There’s a Marine Stewardship make sustainable choices fishing ports fits perfectly with Slieve Donard. brush with local nature. wealth of information about Council certification, which when selecting seafood. driving the Mourne Coastal buying fish and choosing recognises a well-managed Find out more at Route. It runs from Belfast, Beautiful sections of coastal Strangford is the UK’s sustainable species, buying and sustainable fishery. www.seafish.org/rass/ through Bangor, via the Ards path include the walk from largest sea lough, an Area in season and understanding Peninsula to Newry, and takes Saint John’s Point to Killough, of Outstanding Natural industry labelling. Seafish’s digital campaign, in the Lecale coastline and or south of Ballyhornan. Beauty and an Area of Fish is the Dish, found at scenic loops into the Mourne Ballyquintin Point, at the tip of Special Scientific Interest. www.fishisthedish.co.uk, Mountains. Brown signs with the Ards peninsula, and Killard provides lots of ideas for white text mark the route Castle Ward and Mount Point, just south of Strangford, using seafood as a key part which, along with nearby Stewart, both National Trust are also particularly rewarding of a healthy family diet. Strangford Lough, covers houses and gardens, are for walkers. some of the best scenic worth a visit, as is Delamont driving in all of Ireland. Country Park, with glorious views over the lough. You could follow in the footsteps of Ireland’s patron Mountain biking, golfing, sea saint on Saint Patrick’s Trail, safari boating and canoeing in Downpatrick and around is all within easy reach of Lecale. This 92-mile driving County Down’s three fishing route connects the key sites ports. Stunning local beaches with strong links to Saint suit sunny days as well as Patrick’s life, landscape and windswept walks - try Tyrella legacy. Saint Patrick arrived or Cloughey. in Ireland by boat, crossing To find out more, see the Irish Sea, navigating visitstrangfordlough.co.uk, the Narrows into Strangford Delamont and visitmournemountains.co.uk Lough and landing just Ballyquintan Point and strangfordlough.org outside Downpatrick. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 21

Spotting local wildlife

County Down’s harbours Jellyfish are often visible in are teeming with wildlife. shallow waters, or washed Look up for dark flocks of up on the rocky shore. If birds and look out to sea for you’re lucky, you could spot marine wildlife. bottlenose dolphins, harbour porpoises, minke whales You might spot the glossy or even a basking shark. head of a grey seal in the Black-headed gull These great creatures are harbour water at all three the second largest fish in the ports. They are frequent world, measuring up to 10 visitors, being well-fed by metres long. They feed on fish from the boats. Often plankton, so don’t represent the seagulls and seals battle any threat to humans. it out in the harbour for the best pickings. The gulls are Many overwintering birds frequently spotted landing come to this area and to on the seals’ heads, in hope Strangford Lough, attracted of a snack! by the rich pickings on the Jellyfish shorelines. You may spot Grey seal Less frequently spotted, turnstone, winged plover but equally at home, are the and brent geese in winter. otters in Ardglass harbour. Count yourself lucky if you In summer, you can watch the see them; they are worth gannets dive. The islands of Brent goose watching out for all the same. nearby Strangford Lough also provide an important habitat There are plenty of birds to for nesting terns. They arrive spot at the harbours, where from the Antarctic and Africa they find rich pickings. Expect Gull to breed. to see many gulls - black- headed, herring and common gulls - plus cormorants and black guillemots. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 23

Fishing fables

In any dangerous Members of the clergy are In fact, many Ulster Scots’ Of course many of the things The aim is to help sea life occupation, perhaps traditionally discouraged words relate to the twin caught in nets are more thrive, make beaches cleaner, it’s inevitable that onboard too, joining a list local pursuits of fishing and mundane, and County Down reduce damage to fishing superstitions take hold. that also includes pigeons, farming. One example is fishermen have seized the nets and to lose less catch to Fishing’s many occupational and merely the mention of the carpers, referring to the opportunity to help clean the contamination. hazards mean that workers pigs or rats. Some fishermen men, women and children sea through the Fishing for are often superstitious. insist that whistling onboard that gathered in the herring Litter project. Northern Ireland’s first can summon up a storm. escaping from the nets as Fishing for Litter scheme was Local traditions endure, they were brought ashore. This encourages launched by the Northern and the growing number of Herrings were often called fishermen to dispose of their Ireland Fishery Harbour migrant maritime workers silver darlings, partly due Less a superstition and more strange catches carefully, Authority in Ardglass in 2014, also bring their own customs to their colouring. Some a religious conviction, many and to recycle marine litter to be extended to Kilkeel and to the area. believed they got the name local fishermen would not go where possible. Portavogie in the near future. because of the money they to sea on Sunday. In County Some beliefs survive across were worth to the fishermen, Down they became known as the generations, although while others were convinced the “Half Eleven Men”. Local it’s fair to say that most that mentioning their real Kilkeel tradition concerns fishermen are no longer name brought bad luck, and a group of these men who as superstitious as their that the herring shoals would got their boats ready from counterparts years ago. swim away. 11.30pm on Sundays, so they However, customs were ready to set out after endure and a chat with a The club that is used to midnight. fisherman can reveal some cull landed fish at sea is surprising beliefs! traditionally called the priest, Other surprises lie in store for possibly drawn from the idea fishermen at sea, and local Many still consider it unlucky of administering tales of items brought in with to rename boats. Others the last rites! the nets reveal great variety. insist that it’s ill-fated to One Ardglass legend tells of allow women onboard, In Ulster Scots, the word an oven brought up in the particularly redheads! freety means superstitious. net, with a still-warm chicken It’s an adjective that could inside! apply to many fishermen and their families. Trevor Thompson, skipper of the Aubrietia, unloads the catch at Portavogie Fish Market Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 25

Emergency The RNLI, HM Coastguard response and and The Fishermen’s Mission fishermen’s welfare The Royal National Lifeboat Northern Ireland’s maritime The Fishermen’s Mission Institution has five lifeboat rescue co-ordination centre provides support to fishermen stations on the County operates from Bangor and their families across the UK. According to the Fishermen’s Down coastline - Bangor, harbour in County Down. This includes financial, Mission, fishing remains the Donaghadee, Portaferry, This centre becomes part of a pastoral and spiritual most dangerous peacetime Newcastle and Kilkeel. supporting national network support, as well as emergency occupation in the UK. in September 2015. Operating as a charity, and response. The Fishermen’s More than 13,000 people relying on public donations The coastguard is responsible Mission responds to fishermen work in the UK fishing industry. and legacies, the RNLI saves for the entire Northern and their families’ needs On average, 15 are killed or lives at sea. Volunteers Irish coastline from Lough following disasters at sea, and seriously injured each year. provide 24-hour search and Foyle to Carlingford Lough, helps retired fishermen to cope Even fully-trained, safety- rescue services in the UK and including the inland waters with hardship or isolation. conscious and well-equipped Republic of Ireland, involving of Lough Neagh and Lough Locally, Fishermen’s Mission crews face unpredictable 4,600 lifeboat crew members Erne, and they work with centres, such as those in the dangers at sea. and 3,000 shore crew. other emergency authorities County Down harbour towns, and nations in the interest of In one year alone (2014), RNLI provide leisure space for local This is why emergency maritime safety. The Maritime lifeboats launched 261 times in and migrant fishermen to back-up and welfare services & Coastguard Agency Northern Ireland, bringing 281 relax, as well as practical are so crucial. produces legislation and people to safety. facilities, such as laundry. guidance on maritime matters, If you’d like to donate The RNLI works alongside and certification for seafarers. to the Fishermen’s To find out more visit: government-controlled Mission, please call rnli.org and funded coastguard fishermensmission.org.uk If you see someone in Freephone services to prevent loss gov.uk/mca trouble at sea, call 999 0800 634 1020 of life on the coast and for assistance. at sea. HM Coastguard To donate to the RNLI, provides 24-hour visit: rnli.org or telephone: maritime search UK: 0300 300 9990 and rescue response and co-ordination around the UK coast. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 27

Further information and materials for download are available from: strangfordlough.org County Down's Maritime visitstrangfordlough.co.uk fishing ports Heritage visitmournemountains.co.uk

Portavogie Ardglass Kilkeel

Portavogie is the second Ardglass sits on the Kilkeel is now the biggest In 2015 the Strangford Lough • Produce this brochure on Many thanks go to all the largest fishing port after coast of an area called Lecale, fishing port in Northern and Lecale Partnership the area' s fishing heritage, local people who contributed Kilkeel. The harbour is an which was an important Ireland. The town has also (SLLP) led a collaborative with the support of to this work. important commercial hub Norman stronghold, and is earned a well-deserved Maritime Heritage Tourism fishermen, harbour masters of Northern Ireland’s fishing made up of the eastern area reputation as the seafood initiative to benefit fishing and others who participated The funds also helped the industry, and the village’s of County Down. Ardglass capital of the Mournes, with communities in County in the photography and SLLP to develop and provide name is justifiably well- is sited on a natural inlet, its cookery school at the Down, with funding from provided information heritage guide training known globally as the home making it an ideal haven for Mourne Maritime Visitor the European Union and the and stories. courses in Portavogie, of the Portavogie prawn! boats, as it offers natural Centre by the harbour. Department of Agriculture Ardglass and Kilkeel. Some shelter and access at all and Rural Development • Work with local people on of the trainees now provide Fishing is just one of its main stages of the tide. through Axis 4 of the EU public realm improvements guided tours of the area and industries - Kilkeel is also Fisheries Fund, administered to reconnect Portavogie related materials are The town was an famous for farming and by the South East Area Harbour to the rest of available online. important historical port Mourne granite. The harbour European Fisheries Fund. the village. for the Normans, as was itself is relatively new, As part of wider work on the Carrickfergus. dating from the 1850s. Ards and North Down Borough • Provide on-site visitor area's artisan food offering It was expanded significantly Council, Newry, Mourne and information, an App and the SLLP commissioned a plan in 1955, and improvements Down District Council, the free WiFi for all three to develop local and visitor continue today. Northern Ireland Fishery fishing ports. markets for locally landed fish. Harbour Authority and the SLLP worked together to: Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 29

Copeland Islands A2

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R K n i r l A20 b u r b d i g g R h n e i s t n n a R n t Steward R d d u M C A55 M d a R C rd r y b e Rd Dun om ove C r Rd m Stu p Rd

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A A c 50 S 2 Strangford 7 Salt tone Rd Island Gilford A Dromara rs re Gores a Rd 2 B2 G r Castle Island y Ba 51 6 r M A Island H Armagh B The Spa a l 3 2 A25 l 5 R Tandragee B d d d s R R k Banbridge ric y at A e Rd t P b e 2 Mearn S 28 10 B7B 4 b A B A

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I d n R t allyh w r Scarva B ornan o u 3 B3 R t o d h C A s d c p r o R A Downpatrick B h 2 u is h d 8 r C a l l B i o B K Loughbrickland n e 1 L B110 ca is s m Katesbridge t o 9 5 re d le R 2 7 R B A 1 d 1 A5 B 7 Guns Markethill 0 6 d A2 R Island A w e 2 r 8 C

7 R B A1 A25 a A2 en B3 e C Gl R d il o 3 Ard m m Dundrum o n Rd s g B d i R R l y 2 d d O ar ll 5 rch a B Castlewellan Ardglass 80 d Tyrella t R B1B in A o

1 Kilcoo

3 A27 Rathfriland

2 A25 Bryansford B A 1 3 4 Dundrum Bay A25 B 80 A28 2 B1 5 B8 A29 B7B Newcastle

Hilltown B Newtownhamilton Bessbrook 27 B8B8 A2 5 Belleek 5 Camlough A2 Mayobridge B8 Newry

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A 4 5 3 A1 2 1 B Main Rd A2 B Meigh

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B Annalong Mullaghbane e Town/Area Map t 35 B2 u 1 o 7 R B l a st Region Rostrevor a Creggan Co e 30 A rn B 2 ou 9 Forkhill Omeath M Ballymartin

A rich heritage Killowen A2 Crossmaglen A 37 1 N Carlingford Lough Kilkeel M1 Carlingford

Dundalk

Springfield Rd Portavogie is Northern It can be reached by There are superb views Various seating along the Ireland’s second largest walking along the promenade to Isle of Man and further harbour and throughout the You Are fishing port after Kilkeel, past the last remaining 'oul' along the coast to Cloughey village allows locals and visitors Play Park Here which is further along the pump in Portavogie. and Kearney. to rest, relax and enjoy the views. & Car Park Lawson Park coast in County Down. The Scottish families settled in Main Rd A2 village grew to become an Visitors to Portavogie are The harbour, which has the Ards peninsula in the late important maritime centre close to Ireland’s most recently undergone a £2 16th and early 17th centuries, Lawson Park partly due to its location, easterly landmark, Burr Point, million renovation, has New Ct including the influential Water and also because of the rich which lies north of Portavogie transformed over the years, House Hamiltons and Montgomerys. New Rd supply of superb seafood in towards Ballyhalbert. The with major work resulting in This area still has strong links to local waters. island offshore is known as the new harbour in the 1980s. the Ulster Scots language and Burial Isle and is home to Recently installed pontoons customs. Portavogie was part of There has been a settlement nesting terns. Legend persists provide berths for smaller James Hamilton’s estate. A 1625 at Portavogie since the 1600s. that it has a secret Danish fishing boats and leisure Princess Anne Rd map in North Down Heritage Surrounding rocks provided burial chamber full of Viking craft. Before the modern Centre in Bangor shows an shelter and fishermen could treasure, if you could find it harbour was built, fishermen Harbour Rd area that locals still know as the Main Rd A2 beach their boats on the under the guano! used to land their catch Community Warren, due to the number of Centre Harbour Rd Harbour sandy shore. The area is still at McCammon Rocks and Portavogie rabbits there. Harbour known as The Cove near Portavogie has two fine Warnock’s Rocks, where they New Harbour Rd Bog Rd Stablehole and Puddledyke. beaches: the East Shore’s also beached their The South Rock lighthouse, on a promenade has stunning boats for repair. reef south of Portavogie towards views to the Isle of Man and Kearney Point, was built with Scotland, weather permitting! Murals at the village school the support of Lord Kilwarlin, At low tide you can see and on a wall opposite the 2nd Marquis of Downshire. It Portavogie McCammon Rocks where harbour reveal more about was lit for the first time in 1797 fishermen anchored their the fishing history of the and named the ‘Kilwarlin Light’ Harbour View boats before the harbour was village, with panels showing in honour of the Marquis. It built. From the South Shore local fishermen at work. was replaced by a manned you can walk to two islands at A memorial statue in the light vessel in 1877, which was low tide – the Green Isle and harbour, by Colin Telfer, automated in 1982, and replaced Bird Isle, which is now a tern commemorates the lives of by a navigation buoy in 2009, colony. Check the tide tables local fishermen who were lost although the lighthouse on The Aubrietia returns to berth before venturing out. or died at sea. at Portavogie harbour after a the South Rock still stands. five day prawn fishing trip Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 31

Portavogie

Landing the catch Global fame

Shellfish is the main catch Strong family connections in At one time there were two Northern Ireland has The celebrated Portavogie of Portavogie boats, in Portavogie mean that many large processing factories at plenty of specialist seafood prawn features on many particular prawns and crews have ties that go back the quayside, but this industry restaurants, in which restaurant menus, not just scallops. The local fleet for generations. has downscaled to several Portavogie shellfish often in this area, but globally, currently stands at smaller local businesses today. gets star billing. where prawns are one of around 50 boats. It’s not unusual to see Deals are done by agents County Down’s most highly- groups of fishermen representing several boats at prized exports. Many of these local vessels stretching out their nets one time. are small, inshore potting along the quay and in the car boats, targeting crab and park for a mending session. Fishing supports many lobster around the coast. different onshore jobs, Other large trawlers, Once the catch is landed including boat repairs, painters, targeting white fish and at the harbour, it is either plant hire and chandlers, which prawns, provide work for up processed locally by one in turn boosts retailing and to five fishermen each. of several Portavogie business in the village. Boat businesses, or transported building is a strong tradition, its for processing further afield. strength drawn from decades of local expertise. From port to plate…

Portavogie prawns Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 33

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R K n i r l A20 b u r b d i g g R h n e i s t n n a R n t Steward R d d u M C A55 M d a R C rd r y b e Rd Dun om ove C r Rd m Stu p Rd

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Tudor armies arrived after Hilltown B Newtownhamilton Bessbrook 27 B8B8 A2 5 Belleek 5 Camlough A2 Mayobridge B8 Newry

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Historic Ardglass Killowen A2 Crossmaglen A 37 and ownership passed to the 1 N Carlingford Lough Ardglass Road Kilkeel M1 Carlingford

Dundalk Fitzgerald Lords of Kildare. The Strangford Road Fitzgeralds protected Ardglass The Ulaid resisted Viking Jordan’s (or Shane’s) Castle, and much of Lecale from invasion for 200 years, and overlooking the harbour, plantation, but in 1637 they sold Ardglass trading rights to the crown. Bath St (North) were involved in a famous sea was the Norman citadel, Harbour battle off the Ardglass coast supported by a defensive Ardglass went into decline

in 1022. After defeating the curtain of other buildings like Hill Street Unloading the Ardglass until 1800, in favour of Marina catch of crabs Vikings and capturing many of Cowd Castle and Margaret’s their ships, the Ulaid sailed to Castle, both near Ardglass Belfast and Newry. William Bathing the Vikings’ Dublin base and Golf Club. This type of Ogilvie’s purchase of Ardglass House Russell Place Quay St devastated the city in 1026. defensive building is unique manor in 1810 was the key to the town and harbour’s For more than 2,000 to Lecale, appearing from Ardglass (South) revival. As landlord, Ogilvie Harbour years, Ardglass has been After the Norman invasion in Strangford to Dundrum. Its Kildare St an important fishing and the 1170s, Ardglass became strength made Lecale the last helped develop the harbour, defensive port. From the one of two Norman ports surviving Norman colony in pier, lighthouse and village

Bronze Age, Ardglass in Ulster. The other was Ulster in the 1400s. streetscape, as well as the Ward The formed part of the Gaelic Carrickfergus. town’s reputation as a spa. The kingdom of Ulaid (Ulster is Ardglass is also the site of lighthouse at the North Dock is Castle Lane named after this kingdom). Ardglass has more medieval the oldest trading complex a replacement, as the original Green Road

blew down in 1838. Thanks to Castle Place The Ulaid kept their fleet in tower houses than any other in Ireland. The remains of Ardglass Ogilvie, by the 1830s Ardglass Golf Club Strangford Lough and were Irish town. They were built to the fortified Newerk (or New Castle Park High Kings of Scotland and protect it from the O’Neills Works) are still visible at was the main fishing port Green Road Ireland, until the O’Neill fleet and Ulaid clans. Ardglass Castle, which is now in the North of Ireland. defeated them at the battle part of the town’s Golf Club. of Mull of Kintyre in 637. From the later 1800s, Ardglass enjoyed a thriving export Ardglass market, processing herring and white fish and selling to local markets and Russia, Germany Harbour View and the USA.

At one time, the Downpatrick, Killough and Ardglass railway ran directly into Ardglass harbour. Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 35

Ardglass

Built heritage The harbour today

The curved crescent near Ardglass' highest landmark, Historians believe the hill Activity still centres on the Ardglass harbour has berths It’s a good location to wait the marina is part of the Isabella’s Tower, is visible is a prehistoric carn – a harbour and marina. for about 40 local fishing for the best tide to navigate town’s conservation area. from the Downpatrick Road man-made monument to an boats and the marina also the Narrows - the entrance to on the way into the port. It ancient warrior or chief. Today, the local catch is welcomes yachts sailing the nearby Strangford Lough. The Victorian Bathing House was once a coastguard’s mainly prawn, herring and Irish Sea. is opposite the play park. It watch tower, which local mackerel. The tidal North provided privacy to female landowner Beauclerk built Dock has the nickname ‘God’s bathers when Ardglass was in 1851 for his daughter. pocket’, while the South Dock a popular, sophisticated Workers discovered is called the ‘Sawpit’. Victorian spa, with hot and funeral relics from a Bronze cold vapour baths and an Age burial site during elegant hotel for those construction. taking the waters.

Discover maritime Ardglass The Ardglass Tourism and Marine Heritage Centre in Bath Street is open in summer, with more information inside about the town’s maritime history. There is a mobile app of Ardglass’ heritage trail at www.ardglass.eu, as well as hundreds of maritime photographs, with links to a Facebook site where visitors can identify people, places and boats. You can download the Co Down Heritage Trails and Strangford Lough and Lecale apps on either apple or android, and find out more at visitstrangfordlough.co.uk or visitmournemountains.co.uk Ardglass harbour From Ardglass, visitors can enjoy more of the beautiful Lecale coastline. Coney Island’s beach is just a short journey away, as is the town of Killough. St John’s Point lighthouse lies towards the Mourne Mountains from Killough. This route will also lead on to Rossglass, Minerstown and Tyrella beaches.

Bathing House Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 37

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A d

7 R B A1 A25 a A2 en B3 e C Gl R d il o 3 Ard m m Dundrum o n Rd s g B d i R R l y 2 d d O ar ll 5 rch a The seafood capital B Castlewellan Ardglass 80 d Tyrella t R B1B in A o

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2 A25 Bryansford B A 1 3 4 Dundrum Bay A25 B 80 A28 2 B1 5 B8 A29 A2 B7B Newcastle

Hilltown B Newtownhamilton Bessbrook 27 B8B8 A2 5 Belleek 5 Camlough A2 Mayobridge B8 Newry

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B Annalong Mullaghbane e Town/Area Map t 35 B2 u 1 o 7 R B l a st Region Rostrevor a Creggan Co e 30 A rn B 2 ou 9 Forkhill Omeath M Ballymartin of the Mournes Killowen A2 Crossmaglen A 37 1 N Carlingford Lough M Kilkeel il M1 l Carlingford Ro ad Dundalk

t e To R e ostrevor tr S A e Kilkeel is the seafood Kilkeel’s strong maritime Kilkeel’s fish processing Visitors to the2 n harbour can watch tl e s wr a y r c oa w d e capital of the Mournes, tradition endures today. Still factories produce scampi, the fishermen land their catch N M o M o r o R u o nestled alongside the a bustling port, the town kippers, oysters, mussels, and get a photo at the Big Fish n a t d a

i n t

R e e o tr a S Irish Sea and the famous supports many onshore scallops, crab and sculpture. The Seafarers’ Memorial d e e v g i d R r ri o D B o e e n id r e lls The Squa y mountains. In 1890, more industries centred on the sustainable white fish, at the harbour isH ia more serious R o a than one-third of all the harbour, including boat such as haddock, gurnard artwork. It's a reminder of the daily d herring landed in Ireland building and engineering. and pollack. risks that seafaring workers face came through Kilkeel. As Fishing is a major part of the and commemorates those who Kilkeel Harbour

Ha well as fishing, the town was local economy. Commercial The majority of Northern lost their lives at sea. rb o ur Ro built on two other industries activity at the harbour also Ireland’s prawn catch is also ad The Mourne Maritime Visitor - farming and granite. features marine engineers, processed in Kilkeel. Centre, Nautilus Centre, has Kn an ice factory, a fish market oc kc hr panoramic views of the harbour, ee

Av en and ship repair works. Kilkeel is home to Northern ue as well as exhibitions that Ireland’s largest fishing fleet, M an se reveal more about life onboard Ro and all roads lead to the busy ad a fishing boat. A permanent harbour. Today the main exhibition inside deals with Gerry Smyth's thriving catch is prawn, with crab and ‘Tracing your Mourne roots’. The business builds fibreglass lobster on the increase. Oyster astle/ fishing boats at Kilkeel harbour centre also houses the MourneKitty’s R and mussel farming is also a s c o Greenc ro T anfield o Seafood Cookeryg School, withad g Cr

growing industry nearby. rd opportunities to learn how to cook the local catch. Facilities Seascope, Kilkeel’s most for visitors also include Kilkeel recent visitor attraction, Visitor Information Centre and the is a marine hatchery Kilkeel Families at Sea display. research centre where visitors can get as close as they dare to Visitors can also buy fresh local lobster. seafood right at Kilkeel harbour, Harbour View at Heather’s Fresh Fish at The Harbour Store. The town’s Spar supermarket also stocks locally caught seafood, promoting products that are fished in County Down, rather than shipped to it. Local scallops processed in Kilkeel Fishing Heritage of Portavogie, Ardglass & Kilkeel 39

Kilkeel

Seafarers’ Memorial Local walking trail

One of the last-quarried The graveyard of the Old Seafarers are grateful that Kilkeel has a self-guided Nearby attractions are Of course, visitors can also pieces of famous Mourne Church of St Colman’s in Kilkeel has its own RNLI circular walking trail, surrounded by natural enjoy thrilling views of the granite forms the Seafarers’ Kilkeel has a memorial to the lifeboat station at the mouth covering the main sites of beauty. The Silent Valley stunning Mourne Mountains. Memorial at Kilkeel harbour, 94 people who died in the of the harbour. It is one of five interest in the port. The reservoir is ringed by Kilkeel is part of a driving trail a monument to fishermen maritime disaster involving stations in County Down. Lower Square in the centre dramatic peaks. The 13th called the Mourne Coastal lost at sea. the passenger steamer, features the sculpture century Anglo-Norman Route. Brown signs with white the Connemara, and the Narrows Journey, depicting stronghold of Greencastle is text signpost the route from The same local company also cargo ship, the Retriever, on the heritage of the local nearby, as is award-winning the port, guiding visitors made the Diana Memorial Carlingford Lough in 1916. fishing, farming and granite Cranfield beach at the mouth through some of the most Fountain in London’s Hyde industries. of Carlingford Lough. One of scenic driving in Ireland. Park and the 9/11 Memorial the last working watermills Gardens in New York. Mourne The town centre has many in Northern Ireland is beside For more information, see granite is world-famous, and award-winning fish and chip Annalong harbour, known as www.visitkilkeel.com it was once exported widely. shops, cafes and restaurants, the Cornmill. all serving the local catch. Many of the streets in cities like Manchester and Percy French, who wrote Liverpool are paved in the well-known song lyrics Mourne granite setts. “Where the mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea”, frequently stayed in the old Temperance Hotel in Kilkeel. The former site of the hotel is beside Kilkeel Presbyterian Church on Newcastle Street.

Mourne granite A Percy French painting, Silent Valley and the Mournes Ardglass Tourism & Newcastle Visitor Marine Heritage Centre Information Centre 12 Bath Street 10-14 Central Promenade Ardglass, BT30 7SE Newcastle, BT33 0AA T: 028 4372 2222 Ards Visitor Information Centre 31 Regent Street Portaferry Visitor Newtownards, BT23 4AD Information Centre T: 028 9182 6846 The Stables, Castle Street Portaferry, BT22 1NZ Downpatrick Visitor T: 028 4272 9882 Information Centre The Saint Patrick Centre, 53a Market Seafish Northern Ireland Street, Downpatrick, BT30 6LZ seafish.org/industry-support/ T: 028 4461 2233 regional-teams/seafish- northern-ireland Bangor Visitor Information Centre Tower House, 34 Quay Street Strangford Lough Bangor, BT20 5ED &Lecale Partnership T: 028 9127 0069 T: 028 4272 8886 strangfordlough.org Kilkeel Visitor Information Centre Nautilus Centre, Rooney Road Kilkeel, BT34 4AG T: 028 4176 2525

Thanks to the following people and groups for making this booklet possible - Seafish, John Smyth (Ardglass Harbour Master), Northern Ireland Fish Producers’ Organisation, Anglo North Irish Fish Producers’ Organisation, Kilkeel Development Association, Portavogie Culture & Heritage Society, Ardglass Tourist & Marine Heritage Gilbert McBride and Samuel Warnock. Photography commissioned by Strangford Lough & Lecale Partnership from Bernie Brown Photography www.bbphotographic.co.uk. 11970

This Maritime Heritage Tourism Initiative was funded by the European Union and the Department of Agriculture and Rural Development through Axis 4 of the European Fisheries Fund administered by the South East Area European Fisheries Fund.