Food Practices in Early Christianity

Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. February 2018 Volume XXI, Number 5 Save these future CHoW Meeting Dates: Food Practices in Early March 11, 2018 Christianity April 8, 2018 Speaker: Paul Anthony Brazinski May 6, 2018 _______________ Sunday, February 11, 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center Inclement Weather 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, MD 20814 Advisory Paul Brazinski is a Ph.D. Candi- ood has played an important role in the date in Church History at the Catho- If there’s a question about development of Christianity. Several lic University of America. He is in F whether the weather will different food practices and cults originated the History Faculty at Woodberry cause a cancellation of a and evolved through the history of Chris- Forest School, a private boarding CHoW meeting, first check tianity. Some of these practices, such as the school for high-school boys about 34 your email. worship of the Eucharist, are well represent- miles north of Charlottesville. The ed in scholar- school was founded in 1889 on a cen- tral Virginia farm originally owned ship. However, President James Madison’s family. the history of Paul specializes in ancient and food cults in medieval history with a particular Christian- focus on archaeology, Christianity, ity beyond the and food. Eucharist is A CHoW-DC Google little researched. group message will be These habits emailed to members. helped shape If you are not part of the the identity of early Christianity, especially CHoW Google group or those practices that contrast against the do not have email, call “other” vis-a-vis heretical groups. This talk any Board member to will cover the history of food practices in the learn of possible program ancient and medieval periods, investigating cancellations due to how important food really was to Christian- weather (see page 8 for ity and how it shaped its identity today. contact information). A Registered Professional Archaeologist, Paul has excavated Any decision to cancel in Greece, Italy, and England. His would be made the night dissertation is on Gregory the Great’s before, if possible, or no approach to feed the poor in early later than 10 a.m. on the medieval Europe. Paul has published day of the meeting. with Rowan & Littlefield, Peeters, and De Gruyter. He lives in Wood- berry Forest, Virginia, with his wife, Catherine, and dog, Beau. Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culinary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. What Happened at the January 14 CHoW Meeting? President Barbara Karth called the meeting to order at 2:10 p.m. in the Silver Spring Civic Center Building. Present were 25 CHoW members and four visitors. CHoW Programs 2017-2018 ANNOUNCEMENTS: September 10 John Kelly, “Small Plates: Historic 1. Barbara Karth announced that we will discuss the Restaurant Tidbits from the Pages of The Washington Post” theme for April’s potluck dinner at the February CHoW meeting and select the theme during the March meeting. October 8 Andrew Coe, A Square Meal: A Culinary History 2. CiCi Williamson announced that Les Dames d’Escoffier of the Great Depression Washington, D.C., Chapter will hold their biennual symposium, “Celebrating Food,” on March 10, 2018, at The Susan Benjamin, “Survey of the History Universities at Shady Grove. CiCi, Dianne Hennessy King, November 12 and Changes in Food as it Relates to Candy…with and Sheila Kaufman will be speaking at the symposium. Tasting” PROGRAM: Judy Mazza introduced this month’s speaker, Tom December 10 John McQuaid, “The Evolution of Taste” Croghan (see talk summary below). January 14, 2018 Tom Croghan, “Why the Mid-Atlantic REFRESHMENTS: will Rival Bordeaux and Burgundy as a Great Wine • Francine Berkowitz – David’s butter pecan meltaway Growing Region” cookies • Marghi Fauss and Shirley Cherkasky – Triple choco- February 11, 2018 Paul Anthony Brazinski, “Food late chip cookies, molasses cookies, and salted caramel Practices in Early Christianity” • Claudia Kousoulas –Japanese Chex mix • Clara Raju– Cranberry salsa with cream cheese March 11, 2018 Cecelia Glembocki, “The White House • Amy Riolo – Ciambelline al vino (Italian wine cookies) Egg Roll History” • Amy Snyder – Trader Joe’s organic mini cheese sand- wich cracker squares April 8, 2018 Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House DOOR PRIZES: Thank you to Randy Clarke and Claudia Kousoulas for May 6, 2018 Sandra Gutierrez, “The Influence of Latino donating the cookbooks for this month’s door prizes. Immigration on Foods of the U.S. South” The meeting was adjourned at 3:40 p.m. Respectfully submitted, Sharon Shepard, Recording Secretary How to Post to the CHoW Google Group Why the Mid-Atlantic will Rival Bordeaux and Burgundy as a Great Wine Growing Region The CHoW-DC Google Group is for communicating culinary history matters ONLY. It is not intended to be From a family Francis Stockett patent in an open forum. 1668, Tom Croghan (right) currently owns an environmentally diversified farm of You must be a member of CHoW, and your email ad- 400 acres of woodland; 120, pasture and dress must be in the CHoW database. hay; 10, farmstead; and 25, vineyard. He makes Dodon wines that “reflect our It’s important to remember that if you change your email soils, climate, and farming approach, and address, you need to inform the CHoW Membership wines that delight us (balance, harmony, Director so that it can be updated and you will continue depth, length, intrigue).” From his first 72 vines planted in to receive messages and newsletters. 2007, he now has 28,000 vines and produced 2,200 cases of seven wines from six varieties of grapes in 2017. The easiest way to post a message to the Group is simply “You’re very lucky that you are in such a climatically through an email. Here’s how. challenging place. If you are clever, this can be one of the • Open a new email great winegrowing regions of the world.” said Claude • In the address line or “To” box, enter Bourguignon, Consultant in Soil Science. “Clever” means [email protected] being attentive to marginal ripening temperatures and • Enter a subject in the subject box excess water. “If controlled, these conditions can result in • Enter the text of your message long, slow, balanced skin ripening that create balance, har- o NOTE: If you are announcing an event, please make sure mony, depth, longevity, and complexity,“Tom explained. you include all relevant information, plus a website or phone “The Mid-Atlantic has a warmer, longer fall than Bordeaux number for additional information. and Burgundy, and we have higher humidity and different • Please sign your message as a courtesy to everyone. pests to control. • Add your email address for replies. Tom brought a Chardonnay and a Merlot for tasting. • Send the message! DONE! 2 CHoW Line George Washington’s Other Kitchen By CiCi Williamson February 18 is President’s Day (also known as Washington’s Birthday), so it’s a good time to write about our first president and the only country outside the present U.S. he visited or where he lived. That would be Barbados where the 19-year-old stayed for almost two George Washington House. The kitchen is the months in 1751 with his ailing half- outbuilding on the right. brother, Lawrence Washington, who was battling tuberculosis. Lawrence had rented the house for today’s cost of $3000 monthly. In December, I visited this historic, beautifully-restored plantation house and museum, which in 2011 was designated a UNESCO protected property within the World Heritage Site of Historic Bridgetown and its Garrison area. After the Washingtons departed—George back to Virginia Note the high, peaked roof of the and Lawrence to Bermuda further to kitchen to help cool it. fight TB—the house was acquired by the British government to establish a and the danger of fire required that Barbadian garrison (a military place to live). It kitchens 250 years ago be in a separate building. became Bush Hill House, the com- Tropical winds from the Caribbean Sea reached manding officers’ quarters. the main house first, then the kitchen, and lastly, After the withdrawal of the British the privy.” forces in 1905, the home returned to Ice was not available so wine bottles were kept reasonably cool in rooms receiving a steady Above, Cou-cou and flying fish, private ownership. Barbados received the national dish of Barbados. its independence from Great Britain breeze. To filter impurities and and keep it cool, in 1966. The home was acquired by water was poured into a porous stone jar, gradu- the Barbados National Trust to be ally dripped into another similar jar below it, and restored as a heritage site in 1999. The then into a third jar below the second one. major structural restoration of the So far, I have been unable to find out what main house and kitchen began in June Washington ate in Barbados in 1751. However, 2004. The Bush Hill Tourism Trust since 75% of people living there at the time were Inc. worked with advisors from the black, one can guess that he ate produce and meat Colonial Williamsburg Foundation of from animals brought from Africa and raised Virginia; the University of Florida’s in Barbados as well as native plants and those Preservation Institute: Caribbean; the imported from the Americas and Europe. These Society of the Cincinnati; and local ar- include yams, plantains, corn, cassava, eddoes (re- chitects, historians, and archaeologists.

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